Wooden floors can be sheathed with fibreboard sheets Fibreboard-T or HDF, which eliminate the problem of defective lower layers of the floor. Let's try to understand the types of this material. MDF, depending on the density, is divided into three subgroups:
- HDF - slabs high density, which reaches 1050 kg / m3.
- MDF - boards of medium density, reaching 800 kg / m3.
- LDF - low density slabs, about 650 kg / m3.
These imported boards are similar to domestic subgroups: Fiberboard-T (hard fiberboard), fiberboard and fiberboard-M (soft fiberboard), respectively. The first subgroup is used in the manufacture of flooring, the second is used in any capacity, and the third is used when it is necessary to create a soundproofing pad.
Usually, three-millimeter DVP-T are used. Since the floors of the first floors are susceptible to humid vapors from the basements, it is advisable to use oil-impregnated slabs here to ensure moisture resistance. Thicker, six-millimeter, slabs are recommended to be laid if there are uneven floors. The dimensions of the slabs depend on the brand and are 2500/1200 and 1200/600 mm. When laying DVP-T, make sure that there are no gaps between the plates and that there are no distortions.
Fiberboard boards are laid with the rough back side up. This contributes to better adhesion of materials when laying. topcoat... In a trial layout, make sure that the joining lines of the boards do not form a continuous line and that the edge boards do not get too narrow. Layout starts with sheets along adjacent walls. Fastening is carried out using 19 mm nails-staples, special nails for fiberboard, staples or glue paste. Begin to nail in from the middle of the edge of the slab in the directions to its ends and to the opposite edge.
Stages of work:
1. Preparation of fiberboard sheet material.
When using boards without oil impregnation, it is necessary that they reach the humidity level of the room where they will be laid. To do this, it is recommended to slightly moisten them with water from the back using a brush at the rate of 600-800 ml per 1 sq. M. After laying the plates with wetted surfaces to each other, leave them indoors for 2 days.
2. Laying fiberboard sheets.
After 48 hours, the slabs are placed on the plank floor, leaving a ventilation gap. The first fiberboard sheet, laid in the corner of the room, is nailed in 100 mm increments along the edge line and in parallel rows every 150 mm over the entire surface of the slab. Having docked the second to the first plate of the row, they nailed it to the base. All the slabs of the row are stacked in the same way. Before fixing the penultimate sheet, you need to cut the last one.
After laying the last slab, drag out the cutting line taking into account the curvature and other features of the wall. Saw off with a jigsaw or cut off the excess with a cutter and place it (with a gap) against the wall. Place the penultimate slab on top of the last one and draw a line along which you want to cut the lower one. If the slab is not thick, then press the cutter along the cutting line with pressure, turn the slab over, stand on the end of the larger piece and pull the other end sharply towards you. The slab will break along the intended line. Secure both plates. The remaining piece fits as the first in the next row (if it is not too narrow).
Subsequent rows are laid and fixed in the same way, but with a displacement of the joints relative to the joints of the previous row (like brickwork). Several cuts can be made to bypass the pipe. If you need to cut large pieces for large objects (bathtub, bay window corner), make an obstacle template out of paper, outline it on the stove and cut it out with a jigsaw. When installing fiberboard near the doorway, remove and shorten the platband by the thickness of the board. As a result, the floor covering will fit under the installed platband.
When renovation begins in a room that is intended for housing, the most important thing to do is the floors. In principle, with the right approach to business, the floors are laid quickly and easily, there is no need to solve any unnecessary puzzles and come up with any abstruse schemes. I made the floor, and then you can safely continue repairs throughout the rest of the room. There are many materials and methods for improving the surface of the floor, and now we will talk about this. After all, this is a very important task, and for those who have never done this and have not delved into the principle of laying and screed floors, a lot of incomprehensible is expected.
All floor coverings are usually carried out after the completion of construction, finishing and installation works that are associated with dirt or moisture in the floor. Almost all types of coatings can be made on cement or concrete screed, but at the end of the work it should be perfectly flat and dry. Concrete tiles usually level with mortar or leveling compounds. When laying parquet, moisture should be no more than 5%, and for other types of coatings - in accordance with the instructions for laying them.
Sand-cement and concrete screeds laid on an already prepared layer of heat and sound insulation (made of sand, concrete or slag), usually these screeds are made of concrete or various solutions... So that there is no peeling and cracking on the base, the screeds must be given time to harden in a wet state, for this it is necessary to fill them with sand or sawdust on the third day. After that, the screed is watered with water for 7 to 10 days, depending on the circumstances. After all this work done, the screed must be lubricated with a primer, and only after that is it ready to continue covering the floor.
To cover the floors, the most various materials, but most often it is hard fiberboard. In order for the floors to be beautiful and of high quality, you need to take seriously the choice wood-based panels and a prepared base. The smoother and cleaner the base is, the longer and more reliable the wood flooring will serve. It is possible to cover fiberboard on a wooden and concrete base, and at the same time, the basic rules for carrying out this type of work should be observed.
Before covering the concrete base with such slabs, you need to check the evenness of the finished base. This can be done with a rail, but it is desirable that the length of this rail is equal to the width of the room. If there are any protrusions or depressions, they are marked with chalk, then all the protrusions are cut off, and the depressions are poured cement mortar.
In order to put fiberboard, you first need to make a markup, attach plates and mark them, and it is better to lay them so that there is minimal amount sawing a solid plate. The quality of the finished floor directly depends on the size and type of joints between the slabs. The sawing edges of all slabs go under the plinth, each slab must be manually adjusted to each other in order to have a more or less even cut. There should be no visible hand saw seams throughout the room.
The second thing to do is adjust the edges of the slab so that there are a minimum number of seams between them. It is necessary to attach the plates to each other, mark the irregularities and using a plane, carefully adjust their joints. Then you need to number the sheets, and only then can you start gluing them.
Before gluing the slabs, the base is cleaned of dirt and dust, then the slabs are lubricated with mastic and laid on the base. First, they lay out large slabs, adjusting them to each other, then proceed to small ones. It is not necessary to adjust them exactly to the wall, a gap of about 10 mm should remain, this is necessary so that later you can put the plinth without any unnecessary ones.
After all these works have been completed, the front surface of the plates must be cleaned of dust and glue that could remain on the surface, while all this, the boards must be pressed down with their own weight, and then a load must be applied to the seams. After drying, it is necessary to remove the protruding mastic and sand the surface. Where the seams are not sufficiently filled, they are filled with pre-prepared casein-cement mastic, then they solidify, and they need to be sanded again. If, with all these work done, it was not possible to achieve a good fit of the boards, then the seams are covered with putty. After sanding the joints, the floor can finally be painted.
In principle, there is nothing complicated in all these works. You just need desire and persistence, after all the work done on the floor, it will look just fine. It is not necessary to call a specialist to lay the floor for you, you can do all this yourself. You should work a little bit, and then you get a real delight from the result that you get at the end of the work. After all this, the floor can be painted in any color the owner likes. Color gamut now just unlimited, on the market paints and varnishes there is so much big choice of all shades and palettes that simply "scatter the eyes".
So, you saw that all repairs in your home can be done quickly and efficiently without spending a large number of finance. Many people choose a wide variety of inclinations and orientations in order to make the floor magnificent and it was impossible to take your eyes off it.
June 1, 2016Specialization: Master in Construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings... Installation of door and window blocks, decoration of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
There is a misconception among many developers that laying linoleum on fiberboard is not the most the best way, they say, the surface is deformed through short term... In fact, if the laying is done in accordance with the technology, then such a base will serve you for more than a dozen years. In the review, I will describe the workflow in detail, and if you follow all the recommendations, the result will be excellent.
Description of the workflow
We will figure out what you need when you work, how to choose best material and what are the stages of laying fiberboard on different types surfaces. Everything is quite simple, the main thing is to understand all the nuances and avoid the mistakes that most developers make.
Preliminary stage
At this stage, you need to perform the following steps:
- First of all, you need to take measurements, to determine required amount material. It is important to do this not by eye, otherwise it may turn out that 1-2 sheets were not enough for you, or, conversely, there are several elements left and there is simply nowhere to put them. It is best to make a rough plan of each room, so you can make a layout in sheets, this will allow you to arrange them in such a way as to minimize the amount of waste;
- As for fiberboard, the material is made from shredded wood with the addition of natural adhesives: paraffin, rosin - this provides environmental safety material, it can be used in rooms with the most high demands hygiene and safety;
For all its advantages, fiberboard has one big drawback - the plates are afraid of moisture.
Therefore, use this option to prepare the surface for linoleum in rooms with high humidity Not recommended.
- Material thickness ranges from 2.5 to 6 mm... If you have a choice, then it is better to purchase the option with the maximum thickness, since fiberboard has high thermal and sound insulation properties and it is impractical to use thin options. In addition, the rigidity of the elements also matters, and it also depends on the thickness, the minimum permissible indicator is 3.2 mm;
- As for the size of the sheets, they can vary, the width can be from 100 to 180 cm, and the length is from 120 to 274.5 cm. When choosing a specific option, use simple rule- the more, the better: the fewer seams on the surface, the more reliable it is and the easier it is for you to carry out the work;
- You must decide on how the chipboard will be attached, there are three options - adhesive composition, nails or screws. The choice of a specific solution depends on the type of base and your preferences, below we will tell you about all the methods of fastening and touch on their advantages and disadvantages;
- As for the tool, for cutting you will need a rigid construction knife and a metal ruler 1 meter long so that when cutting, the lines are perfectly straight.
The price depends on the size of the sheet, so the option 2140x1220 3.2 mm will cost 140-180 rubles, a plate with a size of 2745x1700 will cost 360-420 rubles. As you can see, the solution is quite budgetary.
Preparation of the base
How smoothly the fiberboard will lie directly depends on this stage, therefore it is important to carry out the work efficiently, the process consists of a number of actions.
Let's start our consideration with such type of grounds as wooden floor, here the process looks like this:
- First of all, you need to free the room from all objects, then you need to remove dust and dirt from the surface and conduct a careful inspection for damage and gaps between the floorboards. Pay special attention to the heads of nails and screws, if they stick out, then they must be drowned into the surface, otherwise you will subsequently get many flaws on the surface of the fiberboard;
- Next, you need to check the level of the floor plane using a level, very often the elements have semicircular shape... If such a flaw is found, then you will have to sand the surface. If the problems are minor, then you can get by with an electric plane or grinder, but if you need to remove significant irregularities, then it is better to use scraping;
- After the alignment is over, you can start sealing cracks, damages and grooves from nail heads and self-tapping screws. For work, either a special putty for wood or an acrylic sealant is used, this composition is excellent for sealing cracks, it has good adhesion and lends itself well to grinding;
- When the putty is dry, the surface is sanded, after which you need to remove the debris and carry out wet cleaning to remove even small particles from the surface.
Concerning concrete foundations, then the preparation has its own differences:
- First, it is necessary to vacate the room, after which all debris is removed from the surface and wet cleaning is carried out;
- Then the rule is taken and the plane is checked for curvatures and level drops. If there are any, then they need to be sealed with cement mortar, if the irregularities are significant, then it is easier to use a self-leveling compound;
If you are working with a solution for cement base, keep in mind that it needs at least 2 weeks to cure, so preliminary preparation better done in advance.
- After all work has been carried out, wet cleaning must be carried out to remove all dust and dirt. After that, the base is treated with a water-repellent primer, it strengthens the surface and creates a reliable barrier to moisture penetration. Work can be continued after the composition is completely dry.
Fiberboard laying
In order to qualitatively lay fiberboard on the floor under the linoleum, a number of conditions must be met:
- The most important thing to remember is that fiberboard does not tolerate moisture very well, so you need to take care of the protection of the material, it is best to carry out preprocessing surface. For work, linseed oil is used, which perfectly protects the material, its application will not cause difficulties - the work is done with an ordinary brush;
- After processing, the sheets should be allowed to dry, after which they should be folded indoors in a pile so that they are aligned as best as possible. If necessary, weights can be put on top so that, under their influence, the elements become perfectly even, this will simplify the workflow and make the end result much better;
- If the humidity in the room is low, then the drying oil treatment can be omitted, but the elements still need to be aligned. For this, the seamy side of the fiberboard is treated with water, after which the sheets are placed with the wetted side to each other and so stacked. After two days, installation work can begin.
As for the workflow, it is produced in different ways depending on the type of base, let's start with such an option as a concrete screed:
- First of all, you need to apply a special glue to the surface to fix the fiberboard on the surface, if earlier bitumen was used for these purposes, nowadays there are many compositions that are very well suited for these purposes. Alternatively, you can use Double-sided tape, it fixes the elements well and at the same time, if necessary, it is much easier to remove the sheets;
- Next, the sheet is carefully laid and pressed, do not forget that the material we are considering tends to expand, therefore, a gap of 5-7 mm should be left between the fiberboards and the wall;
- Work begins from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance, at first all whole sheets are laid, and then you need to attach an edge element, which is carefully applied to the surface to determine the cutting line. Thereafter, using a metal ruler and a durable construction knife Fiberboard is cut and broken;
- After the adhesive has dried, you can start processing the joints, if there are irregularities in their place, then they must be removed by grinding. After that, the dust is removed from the surface, and the seams are sealed with wood putty or acrylic sealant. When the surface is dry, final sanding is carried out, after which you need to thoroughly vacuum the surface before laying the linoleum.
Now let's figure out how to fix the fiberboard on.
The instructions for carrying out the work are as follows:
- With regard to alignment, the process is described above, so it does not make sense to consider it in detail. It is worth noting that if you do not want to wet the sheets, then it is better to bring them indoors and put them in a pile at least a week before the start of work, during which time the material will acclimatize and level out;
- There are only two ways of fastening - using nails 16-25 mm long or using self-tapping screws 3x20 or 3-25. You choose the option that is more convenient for you, but it is worth noting that working with nails is much faster and easier, therefore, it is the nail method for fixing fiberboard that is most often used;
- The work is carried out as follows: a slab is laid in the farthest corner with indents of 5-7 mm from the walls, after which the fastening is carried out. Nails are hammered in with a step of 100 mm at the edges and 150 mm in the places where the sheets adjoin each other. Self-tapping screws are located with a pitch of 150 mm around the perimeter and 200 mm along the abutments;
When fastening Special attention make sure that the fastener caps are flush with the surface or are slightly recessed into it, otherwise, after laying the linoleum, the protruding caps will show through.
- Cutting is carried out as described above, if there are protruding sections around the perimeter, then cuts of the desired configuration are made in the fiberboard sheets. Remember the simple rule: if the casing interferes with the installation, then you need to trim it, and not the fiberboard. All recommendations are collected in the diagram below to make it even easier for you to understand the process;
- All protruding areas are sanded with a bar with sandpaper, after which the surface is cleaned of dust and putty, the less irregularities there are, the better the linoleum will be, remember this. After the putty has dried, it is also sanded, on this the work can be considered successfully completed.
It is worth noting that laying linoleum on chipboard is done in a similar way. The only difference is that particle board much thicker and heavier, and cut it better with a hacksaw or an electric saw.
Recommendations for laying linoleum on a fiberboard base
We will figure out how to properly lay linoleum on a prepared base, this process is simple, so you can easily cope with it yourself. We will consider three main ways of doing work:
| Without fastening material | If the area of the room is less than 12 square meters, then linoleum may not be fixed on the floor surface. In this case, you need to cut the canvas according to the configuration of the room and carefully lay it. Fixation is carried out by means of plinths, which are located along the perimeter, and a metal sill, which is attached to doorway, it is these elements that should press the material and prevent it from moving |
| Using double-sided tape | This option appeared relatively recently, but has already gained great popularity due to the simplicity of the workflow and high-quality fixation of the material on the surface. The work is done as follows: first, the adhesive tape is glued over the entire area in the form of a lattice with a step of 30-50 centimeters, the upper protective layer it is not removed. After the top protective tape is removed from one edge at a distance of about 50 cm, linoleum is laid and so on |
| Adhesive fastening method | A classic solution that involves the use of a special adhesive. This option is used in rooms with an area of more than 20 square meters, its essence is simple: you smear part of the surface with an adhesive, and then gently press the linoleum. The work is done gradually - part of the surface is smeared, the roll is unwound and so on until the end of the room |
As for the connection at the seams with the glueless method, the easiest way is to stick double-sided tape on the base, it will securely fix the connection, and you will not have to purchase an adhesive composition. A metal strip is attached on top, which protects the joint and additionally fixes it.
Output
Fiberboard is great for preparing the base for linoleum, it is important to choose quality material and correctly carry out the work on its installation. The video in this article will clearly show the workflow, and if something is unclear to you, then ask questions in the comments below the article.
When leveling the bottom surface of the room, it is most practical and in an accessible way the laying of fiberboard on the wooden floor remains. This method is advisable when laying on old bumpy floors, a plane with irregularities, defects or some slope. Fiberboard sheets are most often lined with logs, but another method is also possible.
It is possible to lay them under linoleum or carpet with insulation. This material is not always advisable, for example, under heavy loads, and all the features of the coating should be considered in more detail.
Basic conditions for laying fiberboard on a wooden floor
Each floor covering has its own advantages and disadvantages, and fiberboard flooring on a wooden floor remains the simplest and most practical. It does not always make sense to rip old boards off the floor, especially in old houses and suburban buildings. They provide surface integrity and extra warmth. However, the boards deform over time and require partial or complete replacement.
Experts recommend leveling the surface using sheets of plywood, fiberboard or chipboard (not to be confused) using logs made of quality timber... However, thin layers of these materials cannot always withstand significant loads, for example:
- for working machines that give a lot of vibration;
- under thin metal legs furniture;
- for heavy and bulky furniture, especially if the supports are not on the logs under the sheets of the covering, but on the gaps.
The choice of materials for laying and how professionally the work on their installation is done is very important. It directly depends on whether there will be floors later:
- smooth;
- solid;
- durable;
- sustainable.
The horizontal surface is a fundamental criterion for the quality of flooring work. So prepare in advance necessary tools including universal building level, without which it is difficult to verify the accuracy of the geometry of the floors.
It is equally important to properly prepare the old base:
- thoroughly clean and remove all construction waste;
- remove the skirting board, which interferes with mounting the base under the fiberboard;
- fill up all the cracks in the floor for tightness;
- clean off everything that peels and crumbles on the floor;
- mark the level of the lower horizontals near the walls, along which the surface will be aligned;
- if in the floor of the cottage, country house or the building is supposed to enter the cellar, it is better to start with its arrangements, and then lay the floors.
Attention: If the logs are ideally set, then poor-quality work on laying fiberboard sheets can ruin the whole impression!
Fiberboard should not be laid too tightly without a gap, otherwise, when the level fluctuates, their edges will rise, splitting. The sheets should also recede from the walls of the order of 4-7 mm - this edge will still go under the plinth.
Experts recommend starting laying out fiberboard sheets from the opposite wall to front door... If there is no experience in how to put fiberboard on a wooden floor, experts recommend that the first layer be checked immediately with a level for leveling if any inaccuracies are detected. Each subsequent row is checked horizontally by the same method - haste in case of inaccuracies is inappropriate.
When gluing the plates, it is advisable to lay the load on top of the seams, and if they are nailed, then it is not necessary. If the floors are lined for laying linoleum or carpet, then no further processing is expected.
Advantages of fiberboard floors
Wood fiber boards are a fairly common building and finishing material, applicable for the repair and cladding of various surfaces. Fiberboard is used not only for rough cut various designs but also for the floor. It is noteworthy that even those who do not know how to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor prefer this material - because of the acceptable cost and practicality. Fiberboard sheets are irreplaceable:
- when leveling the old floor;
- for rough laying of linoleum or parquet;
- for facing surfaces (floors, walls, arches).
The main "pluses":
- ease of installation, but you need to be able to put logs on a wooden floor;
- high strength of a fragile-looking material that resembles wood board;
- tolerates temperature extremes at moderate air humidity;
- durability (in the absence of excess moisture);
- environmental friendliness, due to which this fiberboard natural material use allergy sufferers with intolerance to chemical components in the living room;
- convenient packaging;
- affordable price.
At the same time, fiberboard floors have their "disadvantages":
- when leveling the floor, additional costs are required for a beam for logs as a basis;
- insufficient protection from water, although this material is quite suitable for a nursery or bedroom;
- with great pressure or impact with a sharp heavy object, it can form a small gap between the lags;
- poor fire resistance in case of fire;
- look too simple for facing;
- without protective treatment the surface wears out quickly, especially under heavy load and furniture movements;
- in raw unheated room may delaminate.
Attention: Regarding environmental friendliness - controversial issue, since the old form of release presupposed a different technology for gluing materials, therefore, it is undesirable to use the remains of fiberboard sheets in a residential area that are lying around workshops and garages!
How to choose materials
Buying fiberboard sheets is a responsible business, and a large list of building materials from different manufacturers not only gives more choice, but also, to some extent, brings confusion. Today there remains the risk of purchasing a substandard or unsuitable product.
1. If the leveling of the floors is done for painting, then it is better to purchase decorative plywood, which can be laid out with patterns, like parquet or laminate - floors High Quality will cost much less.
2. If appearance is not so important, since fiberboard flooring on a wooden floor is planned for laminate or carpet, the visual parameters are not as important as specifications... Fiberboard sheets are different sizes, soft and hard, and are classified according to their standardization scale:
- grade T with a conventional front surface;
- Т-С has a face layer with a finely dispersed mass of wood fibers;
- T-P has a color on the front surface;
- T-SP finely dispersed face layer is tinted;
- Т-В has increased water resistance without tinting;
- NT - semi-solid sheets;
- ST - superhard sheets with a conventional front surface;
- ST-S - superhard sheets with a finely dispersed face layer.
Quality groups A and B are for solid slabs of the T, T-P, T-C, T-SP brands, and their front surface suggests the 1st and 2nd grade. Density soft sheets varies: M-1, M-2 and M-3. Hardboard is distinguished separately - fiberboard grade T, which is produced wet way... It is used for various purposes:
- insulation and decoration;
- soundproofing and thermal insulation of the floor;
- construction of internal partitions;
- wall cladding;
- underlay for parquet, laminate, linoleum;
- for decorative cladding various panel structures.
Tip: When buying, pay attention to appearance hardboard. They must be free from defects, have the same thickness along the entire perimeter, with the same shade of the surface of the sheets in one bundle (batch).
Key quality indicators:
- equal sheet sizes;
- uniform thickness of fiberboard sheets;
- uniform uniform front surface.
The choice of timber for logs
When choosing a beam for logs for laying, it is important to adhere to some recommendations:
- wood laid under fiberboard on a wooden floor must be dry (light timber - dry);
- you should not purchase it in advance and put it in a damp room - it will warp and become unusable;
- use wood treated with special antiseptics of the 2nd or 3rd grade from healthy, knot-free coniferous wood;
- the cross-section of the bar is recommended not less than 40mm and up to 70mm;
- knotty "will lead" lags later due to the heterogeneity of the wood, but you can use trim without these defects;
- a small number of cracks are permissible, since this is a natural state for a timber bar;
- * absence of fungi and sprouted on damaged areas of wood (quality indicator);
- warped or "winged" bars are best discarded right away or use trimmings on short sections of the lathing lag.
Attention: You can check the “wingedness” (screwing of a warped timber) with a plumb line or a thin elastic cord stretched along any wood edge.
How to cut the fiberboard correctly?
When stacking sheets of such facing materials like hardboard or plywood, one has to face the need for cutting, especially in the extreme rows. Construction supermarkets offer such services, but the exact dimensions of the room with its deviations from the norm are needed, for example, not all angles are 90 °.
Attention: Remember that it is better to make the sheets shorter - they will go under the skirting board, but it is very difficult to cut off the excess.
When cutting with a machine, the sheets are cut most evenly and with a high-quality edge. If this is not possible, you will have to do it yourself:
- jigsaw;
- a circular saw with a laser guide and discs for working on hardboard;
- universal construction tool for cutting building materials;
- grinder for precise markings.
Tip: Better to use a special homemade machine holding a grinder. Scissors for metal will help to remove the edges a little. In the absence of experience in cutting, it is better to practice on an unnecessary piece, before that, having studied the video at the end of the article.
Often you need to trim sheets for recessing for pipes for radiators and water supply, niches or wall protrusions. Special holes are made with a jigsaw, universal tool or reliable sharp knife... Take care of this tool in advance, for example, rent it. Prepare the template from cardboard and check everything on the spot, if everything is accurate - transfer the markings to the fiberboard.
Technology for laying logs and fiberboard on the floor
It is unacceptable to store fiberboard plates and timber in a damp room; it is best to put the timber horizontally on the floor, and the sheets - vertically along the wall in conditions close to room temperature.
The logs are laid on previously prepared surfaces - screed, self-leveling mixture or old wooden floors. As a rule, the technique of how to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor is applicable both for leveling the surface and for updating the surface. If there are slight curvatures, differences in floor level from east to north or from west to east, a noticeable slope or obvious irregularities, then you should try to either eliminate or close them.
If you have no experience in how to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor, then you can ask for advice on the video. In many cases, you can turn to specialists for arranging a log, and lay the fiberboard sheets yourself. However, this is not difficult if you have the tool, patience and experience with wood.
It is necessary to carefully inspect the entire surface of the old floor, and if fungus or mold is found there, it cannot be left under the fiberboard sheets, otherwise, over time, they will "eat" all the new floors. The rest of the areas are treated with a special fungicidal primer or construction antiseptic for wood and other surfaces.
Tip: It is also worth removing those boards that squeak - do not think that something will change under the weight of the new floors. Sometimes, due to defects, a significant part of the old wood flooring has to be cleared. Don't worry - it will all be hidden under the lags and new cladding!
1. If the old floors are relatively flat, but you need to update the surface, it is enough to sand them and then paste over with sheets of high-quality fiberboard - hardboard. With this method of installation, the old base must be thoroughly cleaned after sanding under a primer. It should dry for at least 8-12 hours, depending on the composition and air temperature. Only halfway through this, apply glue and apply sheets of hardboard, it is good to press down with weights in the corners and edges.
2. In the construction of the lag, special galvanized locknuts with a nylon ring are usually used, which prevents the nuts from displacing along the thread.
The devices do not allow them to unwind and weaken the structure. When tightening the upper locknuts, which fix the joists in the position required on the given section of the floor, they slightly sink into the wood structure. Because of this, the surface level may be slightly lower than expected. Tighten the top locknuts to track the border laser level considering this error. Specialists also sometimes display 2 levels, an additional one - for a locknut.
3. All lags are stacked in the same way - see the diagram:
Preliminary calculations for the interval between them and the floor level correlate:
- with a cross-section of a bar;
- the slope of the floor;
- dimensions of hardboard sheets.
The bars are mounted directly to the old wooden base, and where there are no boards at the base, instead of them, pieces of timber or other pieces of wood are installed under the logs. It is not recommended to make a partial lathing from the logs or leave gaps in the floor under them before lining the fiberboard.
Before laying them on the floor, it is worth recalling that less expensive slabs with a small thickness, and for finishing- high quality hardboard.
Attention: The purchased fiberboard sheets stand for 2-3 days in a living room - for acclimatization for 2-3 days. Before applying, you can lightly spray the backside with a spray bottle or treat with a primer - for better adhesion. This is optional when installing with nails.
Features of fastening fiberboard to the logs:
- sheets are laid out on the logs so that the seams converge on the bars;
- hardboard (fiberboard sheets) is nailed with screws, self-tapping screws or nails with a step of about 100mm along the edge and after 120-150mm in the center;
- the next row does not fit snugly, with a small gap - about 2-3 mm;
- all sheets are stacked in parallel in the same way.
Features of fixing fiberboard to glue:
- assembly adhesive is applied to the entire surface of the sheet and is well distributed without smudges,
- the sheet should be soaked for 25-30 minutes;
- glue is also applied over the primer on the floor;
- the sheet is pressed down and checked horizontally.
Peculiarities finishing gender:
- it is important to remove all remnants of the glue that has appeared in the cracks;
- large gaps between the sheets are sealed with putty or glued with reinforcing tape - under the subfloor;
- the surface of the fiberboard can be varnished or painted.
Fiberboard (fibreboard) is the most affordable and popular sheet material... It is actively used in repair and construction work, as well as in the fields of the national economy. Very often, fiberboard is laid on the floor, as a base or as a final option.
To save costs for such construction or repairs, home craftsmen do all the work on their own, without the involvement of expensive specialists. Laying fiberboard on a wooden floor is a relatively simple procedure that you can do yourself.
Preparatory work
Before any repair and construction work, some kind of preparation is required. This also applies to fiberboard flooring. The first condition is the same moisture content of the sheets with the surrounding environment. If this is not taken into account, they are deformed immediately after the flooring.
In the case of laying fiberboard sheets in a room that is irregularly heated, it is necessary to moisten the sheets on the reverse side warm water... After that, fold back to each other and leave to dry for a day. When laying in a room with regular heating, the sheets are placed on the edge and remain in this position for two days.
Such a floor can be laid out on a sand and cement screed, but the more popular option is to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor.
Fiberboard laying
After a day or two, depending on the type of room, the sheets are laid on a wooden floor with a small ventilation gap. The first sheet is laid in the corner of the room and fixed to the base with nails. Along the edge line, the step should be 10 cm with parallel rows of 15 cm.
Subsequent sheets are fixed to the floor accordingly. Beforehand, they should be carefully docked, avoiding a gap between the sheets of more than 2-3 mm. During installation, you must also observe the measures fire safety... Where fiberboard sheets come into contact with vertical pipes heating system, it is necessary to leave gaps. These places are filled with a special solution of sand and cement. When heating up to 80 degrees, the gap can be 1-2 cm, if a more thorough degree of heating is planned, up to 5 cm of the gap should be cemented.
The last sheet in the row is fixed to the floor, taking into account its fit under the remaining area and the curvature of the wall. The excess parts of the fiberboard can be sawed off with a jigsaw or a cutter, having previously cut them out.
The next row is laid out, just like the first, but now with a fit under the existing ones fibreboards... When installing near a doorway, it will be easier to cut the platband a little than the sheet itself. This will not only give a more aesthetic surface, but also preserve the integrity of the floor covering.
The popularity of fiberboard plates is also due to the simplicity of their installation, therefore, having studied all the nuances, you can start working on your own.