The question of what and how to cover plants for the winter arises sharply before every gardener before the end of the next summer season... There are a lot of special covering materials for plants, but this does not mean that you need to wrap bushes, trees or flowers with a thick layer of dense fabric and you don't have to worry. Not every culture needs such procedures, and some are quite simple "old-fashioned" methods of protection, which you will learn about later.
On the eve of winter, people buy winter clothes for themselves or get fur coats and down jackets from wardrobes and mezzanines. Also garden plants need a shelter that reliably protects from frost. And since the crops grow on our site are different, then the types of winter shelters for each perennial are different.
You will learn how to cover plants and how to do it correctly by reading this material.
When to cover plants in the garden for the winter?
In autumn, and even more so in winter, night frosts are common. Gradually the soil freezes and a crust forms on it. If plants that are not resistant to frost overwinter in the garden, they should begin to be covered. The timing of when to cover plants in the garden for the winter depends on the specific characteristics of the crops. For example, hydrangeas that love warmth need to start covering from October, and roses can wait until the end of the month, as they must first be pruned. But anyway experienced gardeners it is advised not to wait for persistent frosts, since the cold snap is accompanied by snow falling, and this will interfere with the construction of many shelters.
However, it is also not worth rushing to shelter flowers and other plants for winter protection. It happens that the first frosts down to -5 ° С come already in September, which confuses the owners of perennial wintering plants. Do not be afraid of this weather phenomenon.
The first frosts in September-October are a common thing and do not interfere with plants on their own, without human intervention, to prepare for winter. Even if the thermometer reads -10 ° C, this temperature will not cause any harm to perennials.
Light snow at this time of the year will also not prevent plants from expecting real winter snowfalls, shedding leaves, etc. Indeed, most often, after small frosts, a thaw sets in, even if a crust of ice has formed on the ground before.
Do not rush to build shelters, since this is the last opportunity for plants to enjoy the sun's rays, to absorb the remnants nutrients and distribute them among the branches and leaves, grow roots and finish the maturation of tissues. Without this, garden pets will not have the strength to survive the long winter. Even more - early frosts are good for many bulbous plants, since this slows down their germination and all wintering crops rebuild their rhythm of life under new weather conditions.
What plants to cover for the winter?
All plants can be conditionally divided according to the level of cold resistance and, based on this, construct shelters. Referring this or that culture to a certain type, it is necessary to evaluate not only its cold resistance, but also winter hardiness in general.
This refers to the ability of the plant to withstand low temperatures associated dampness and illness, spring burns and other unfavorable factors that we associate with the onset of the winter season. In order to properly cover plants, it is important to assess the ability of garden pets to recover from freezing.
However, the viability of a plant depends not only on its own protective forces, but also on what kind of weather surprises winter has in store.
It is also worth taking into account that climatic zone where you live and possible temperature anomalies in your area. Only by assessing all of the above factors, you can make a decision on the construction of the shelter.
First of all, you should build a shelter for the winter for flowers such as daffodils of all groups as well. Lilies require protection, but not all, but only tubular hybrids, Candidium and Oriental lilies - they need to be covered especially carefully. Perennials that need winter protection are Incarvillea, Knifofia, Korean Chrysanthemum, Physostegy, and others.
There is no need to cover for the winter those small-bulbous flowers that bloom in the spring - (checkerboard and white-flowered), Pushkinia, and others. These plants root well and do not have time to freeze over the winter. But if you plant these bulbs after September 20, you should cover them with mulch on top. One of the conditions for a good wintering of all bulbous plants is a landing site that is not flooded. melt water.
Thermophilic perennial plants such as asparagus, rhubarb, lemon balm and others also need winter shelter.
The best covering material for plants for the winter
Modern covering materials for plants for the winter amaze with their variety. But at the same time, we should not forget about those who served faithfully to our grandmothers and grandfathers. They should be used together to create a secure shelter.
Non-woven.
The most commonly used dense non-woven white material, or geotextile. You should choose a material of high density - from 80 g per 1 m2. Such fabric does not get wet and performs its protective functions better. When installing shelters, it is necessary to ensure that the material does not come into contact with the leaves or needles of plants. Also, the coating should only be white.
Sackcloth.
This coating is more effective than nonwoven fabric. Under burlap, plants do not die or burn. The cover can be used even without a frame, simply by throwing the material over the plant and tying it with a rope on top.
Even if the leaves of evergreen plants freeze to the burlap, in the spring they regenerate without loss. Burlap is often used not as a shelter from frost, but as protection from desiccation and burns. The only drawback of the material is the price. For example, grade 60 geotextiles are about 4 times cheaper than burlap.
Jute mesh.
In fact, this material for sheltering crops for the winter is a more expensive version of burlap. In addition, jute mesh is not soft and difficult to work with.
Film.
Without it, it is impossible to make an air-dry shelter for the most demanding plants - roses and hydrangeas. But a special approach is needed to the film; when constructing protection, it is necessary to know some of the nuances so as not to destroy the plants.
Composite canvas.
This is a novelty among the covering materials for plant cover. The cloth consists of geotextile and fine-mesh plastic mesh... When installing structures from a composite canvas, it is necessary to additionally create a frame, since the material will not hold the shape. The canvas is intended only for small plants, since its width leaves 0.4-1 m and it is not enough to cover large plants.
Plant shelter rules
Before covering flowers and other plants, you should familiarize yourself with the basic installation rules. protective materials in accordance with local climatic characteristics and their capabilities.
Remember that plants, unlike us, are not warm-blooded creatures. And if we can keep warm by putting on a fur coat, then it is useless to wrap up the plants. V winter time heat comes from the ground, and in order for the shelter to have a comfortable temperature, it is necessary to reduce heat loss due to heat-insulating materials. The winter plant house will be warmer if it is low. But various covers, winding plants on a support serve to protect against burns, wind, but not from frost.
The main heat-insulating material presented to us by nature itself is snow. If a layer of loose snow lay on the site all winter, there would be no need to worry about shelters. Therefore, all protective devices must be constructed so that they are covered with snow. They should not be high and with visors that obstruct coverage.
Heat is retained better if loose materials are used, and the shelter itself should contain layers of air.
Shelters must be built in a timely manner, as mentioned above, and before that, the plants are fed, cut off, then the soil around them is loosened, covered with humus, compost, manure and spud. Only after that you can proceed to the construction of protection.
Despite all the efforts of gardeners, it happens that plants die in shelters, and most often it is not the cold that is to blame for this, but various diseases that develop in damp conditions. Therefore, it is worthwhile to attend to the creation of dry shelters, as well as ventilate the plants in autumn and spring and prevent water from flowing into them.
The main types of winter shelter for plants
The main types of plant shelter for the winter are mulching, hilling, air-dry and air-wet methods.
Mulching.
Mulching means covering the ground various materials in order to reduce heat loss and to preserve the root system. Almost all overwintering garden plants can be sprinkled with mulch. But this is especially important for bulbs and plants that are not cold-resistant enough or with a superficial root system.
Humus, sawdust, peat, leaves and other materials are used as mulch. Plants are mulched around, but the place where the earth adheres to the trunk of the plant should not be touched. Over time, the mulch can move closer to the base of the plants due to snow and rain. In order to prevent this, the space directly near the trunk must be covered with sand with a small slide.
Often, garden plants are covered with fallen leaves, but it should be borne in mind that dry leaves scattered on the ground perfectly perform the function of thermal insulation. On the contrary, wet foliage only worsens the situation and promotes decay. If plants with rosettes overwinter on the site (for example, korean chrysanthemums), for them wet leaves can cause death, especially if a humid climate prevails in the region.
Hilling.
Hilling means adding soil, peat, sawdust and other loose materials to the base of the bush. The layer is laid with a height of 10-40 cm. Thus, the temperature rises in the area of the root collar and the buds present in this place are preserved. This is done for many plants - hydrangeas, clematis, roses. But be careful, because for some plants that are prone to pre-heaving, hilling can cause death, as it leads to damping out of the bark in the area of the base of the bush.
In the northwest, the climate is unstable, winter takes a long time and plants should be hilled with caution. In addition, hilling cannot be carried out if frost breaks have appeared on the plant. For example, in roses, an infection can penetrate through the formed cracks.
Bending down.
Many plants have a ground part that is susceptible to cold weather. These can be shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots. Such plants are protected by bending down and then covering them with snow. Bending is carried out as follows: a peg is driven into the ground and upper part the plants are fixed in a horizontal position with ropes and a wire bow. There are even special wire stands on sale equipped with rings to support the bushes.
It is necessary to put boards or trellises under the plant so that it is not bent to the ground and the branches do not rot from dampness. This should be done before the onset of frost, otherwise the wood will become too fragile. Sometimes the plants are covered with a non-woven fabric on top. Bending down are subject large-leaved hydrangeas, shrubby and climbing roses, weigels and others. In the spring, the bushes must be straightened before the shoots appear, otherwise the plants will bend.
Air dry shelter.
This is the most time consuming and at the same time one of the most effective winter shelters. It consists of solid frame that can withstand the weight of snow (up to 60 cm high), an insulating layer and a moisture insulating layer. The frame is made of thick wire, a shield, a wooden box laid on supports.
As heat insulating material lutrasil or panels of any fabric are used. The moisture insulating layer is made of transparent or black polyethylene film or roofing material. A silver film is also suitable for this - it is opaque, but, unlike black, it heats up much less. When using transparent film, the shelter must be additionally shaded, otherwise in the spring the protective structure will turn into a greenhouse and the plants will overheat.
All structures using film suffer from one misfortune - dampness. It is necessary to ensure dryness in the shelter, and they do it as follows.
All fallen leaves and weeds are removed inside the winter house. They also tear off all the leaves from the plant itself and dry this place well.
For example, above the plant, you can set polyethylene roof... When creating protection, it is necessary to use only dry materials to avoid additional moisture.
It is also necessary to make ventilation holes in the structure. They are closed at the onset of frost with a film or lutrasiril, so that the plant is at least a little ventilated at the onset of a thaw.
Air-wet shelter.
This structure is an alternative to the difficult to install air-dry shelter.
The purpose of this shelter is to create a air gap... At the same time, the plant itself is not isolated from moisture, it gets wet and dries out as a result of airing, but it is very important not to press it tightly to the ground during the construction of the structure.
Typically, a dense non-woven fabric is placed on a low support. The support may not be as strong as in the case of an air-dry shelter, and the material is laid in 1-2 layers.
The support can be made from slats laid on logs or bricks. Even plastic vegetable crates are suitable for this purpose.
Such protection is especially useful for cuttings, which, thanks to it, do not stick to the ground and, therefore, do not rot. If chrysanthemums and phlox are to be hidden under the shelter, the remains of the stems that stick out after pruning are used as support. On them, the plant is covered with thick lutrasil or cloth. With this method of protection, the plant can be kept in a shelter in any weather and the timing of opening is not critical.
In the next section of the article, you will learn how to cover roses, conifers and evergreen trees for the winter.
How to properly cover trees and climbing roses for the winter (with video)
Shelter for rhododendrons and conifers.
These types of plants do not tolerate winter well. They suffer most often not from frost, but from burns, debate and desiccation. To shelter for the winter coniferous trees and rhododendrons, first of all they need to be protected from wind, sun and heavy snow, since branches can break under its weight.
Shelter of evergreen trees.
Before covering evergreen trees for the winter, prepare correct material... These plants do not tolerate film and even dense lutrasil as protection. For them, constructions are made using light-colored fabric.
You can sew a cover from old sheets and secure it with sticks set like a hut and a rope. Boxes with cracks are also used as shelters, and only the roof is covered with polyethylene. Plants shade in autumn, and remove protection in cloudy weather after the snow melts and the ground thaws.
Shelter of climbing roses.
In the case of these plants, several protection methods must be applied at once. Bushes huddle, bend down and cover.
When installing protective structure you need to be prepared for any weather conditions that are often impossible to predict. Therefore, it is important to choose the optimal types of shelters that will stand in the garden until spring. It is also important not to overfeed plants with nitrogen in autumn, to fight pests and diseases, and to comply with planting dates. This will allow plants to survive even the most severe frosts without loss.
Watch a video on how to cover roses for the winter to reliably protect the plants:
Hello reader!
Today I want to talk about hiding flowers for the winter. What a garden - a vegetable garden to do without perennials! There are simply no such ones. And they cover them so that in winter the greens do not spill out under the snow, especially in early spring... When it's warm and high humidity... For this, many perennial flowers are covered for the winter. Also, the shelter saves the roots from freezing in frosty winters with little snow. Before October, you don't need to start sheltering, let the first small frosts temper the plants, prepare them for winter.
How to cover flowers for the winter
1. Perennial flowers
Many perennial flowers ( daisies, carnations,, chamomile, arabis) go under the snow with green, juicy leaves and stems. From temperature changes and high humidity under the snow, the greens begin to rot, and the flowers die. Shelter protects from this scourge.
We usually cover thin layer fallen leaves - usually 5-7 cm. Of course, it is better to first cover all plantings of these flowers with spruce branches or brushwood (branches of deciduous trees), this will provide ventilation and protect the plants from damping off.
Primrose
In the fall, gardeners already have enough to do - you say, and then cover the flowers. But we will not be lazy, and we will protect our unpretentious perennials... Let them further delight us with lush flowering.
For primrose (primrose) the thickness of the cover of fallen leaves will be enough 5 cm.
In winter, try to add snow to these places. Most The best way to keep warm is a large snowdrift above the flower garden.
2. Shelter of bulbous flowers
Lilies with white flowers! cover with a 10-15 cm layer of fallen leaves. Since their bulbs grow at the very surface of the soil and can freeze. In all other varieties, the bulbs are buried in the ground and do not need to be covered.
3. Rudbeckia, delphinium
In early October (after flowering) on old plantings roses (except climbing), more about roses below, rudbeckia, delphinium, clematis burning cut leaves and stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil surface. And before frosts (without waiting for them), we mulch with peat or earth (a layer of at least 3-5 cm) to protect the plants from freezing. Top can be covered with foliage or spruce branches.
Covering material video
4. Shelter of roses
Naturally, you can make a flower shelter in your own way from scrap materials. But don't forget - main principle shelters - so that there is air space under it. Until the temperature drops to -10 ° C, we leave the slots for ventilation. You can also read about other methods.
Shelter of roses for hydrangeas for the winter can be not only reliable, but also beautiful. See how to make them and for thuja, what materials are better to use.
What plants need to be covered for the winter?
Let's deal with this issue first. The need for insulation depends on the region. In southern latitudes, almost all plants winter well. In the more northern ones, the following representatives of the summer cottage flora need shelters:
- All roses. In short, the short ones winter well under a wooden box, which is covered from above with a dense non-woven material, on which cellophane is thrown. In spring, the film must be removed in time to ensure airing of the plants. Tall roses can be covered with the same materials, but after having erected a frame for us.
- Some ornamental shrubs. Insulate: Japanese quince, forsythia, large-leaved hydrangea. The hydrangea shelter for the winter is a cover made of dense lutrasil or spunbond, which you can sew with your own hands.
- Bulbous flowers planted this year. First, a layer of peat 5 cm thick is poured into this place, in cooler regions where there are winters with little snow, a piece of dense spunbond folded in half is placed on top. It is fixed with small stones. But such insulation must be removed in time in the spring. As an adult, these plantings will not need such shelter for the winter, of course, if this is not the north of Russia.
- In such areas with problematic climates, it is also necessary to cover strawberries and strawberries., first - with a layer of peat, and on top with a non-woven material, securing it along the edges with stones, bricks.
- Alpine plants. They are afraid not so much of frost as getting wet. Therefore, you need to shelter alpine plants for the winter by building high shelters in the form of a house, where there is a lot of air and good ventilation.
- Rhododendrons. A frame made of U-shaped structures is placed above them, placing them crosswise over each bush. Spunbond, lutrasil or medium-density agrotex are placed on top, on which they put plastic wrap... Rhododendrons do not tolerate drought well, so you need to cover the plants when it rains or after watering, while alpine plants are insulated on dry ground.
- Conifers: juniper, fir-tree, conic, thuja. If the conifers are 3 or less years old, then all these young plants need warming in winter. For them, you need to sew covers from high-density non-woven material. It is more expedient to put on these shelters after a cold snap, when wet snow falls, so that the needles do not dry out under the covers of these plants.
- Clematis. They are removed from the support, put on facade foam that is laid on the ground. A box is placed on top, covered in the same way as roses.
- Trunks fruit trees so that mice and hares do not spoil them.
- Perennial flowers. Compost or peat is poured under them.
- Raspberries. She is sheltered in cool regions. Raspberries are tied in bunches and bent down. To prevent it from straightening, a stone, for example, a brick, is tied to the harness. It remains to throw a non-woven fabric of medium thickness over it.
- Winter garlic. After the first freezing, it is advisable to cover it with fallen leaves.
Shelter roses for the winter
If they are climbing or those that grow close to each other, you can make a tunnel shelter.
To do this, take:
- bars;
- slats;
- plastic arcs;
- spunbond with a density of 60;
- plastic wrap;
- nails;
- stones.
- Cut into pieces of the same size, drive them in the center on one straight line. On top of them, nail a long, strong rail. If there is no one, then attach several, placing one after the other. Put arcs on top.
- Shelter roses for the winter should be done in October. It is highly desirable that the soil under the bushes is dry. Therefore, if rains are expected at the end of September, then you need to cover trunk circle plants with a film.
- Some rose growers remove the leaves from the stems so that they do not become a source. high humidity and fungal diseases.
- If it is noticeably colder, you need to sprinkle peat on the near-stem circle of roses. A double layer of non-woven covering material with a density of 60 is thrown onto the constructed tunnel shelter. If it is new, it will not let precipitation through.
- If the density is not so high or the material is not new, then you need to put a film on top, but leave the space on the sides (20-30 cm from the ground) not closed, for better ventilation. It must be securely fixed.
- Usually they cover roses for the winter, when the temperature goes over zero mark, will drop to -2 ... -4 ° С, and hardened plants will endure a cold snap to -7 ° С. Therefore, many people insulate them in November.
But you need to prune park roses, remove the climbing ones from the supports and cover the trunk circle with peat in advance.
If you live in a warm climate, then you can wrap climbing roses with non-woven material, tie them with twine, without bending them down.
But, of course, it is better to bend them to the ground, so that then the plants will be covered with snow. But with standard roses it is more difficult. They are insulated as follows.
First they take:
- non-woven fabric or burlap;
- twine;
- scissors;
- pegs.
Cut roses can be covered with burlap. In the same way, other low heat-loving shrubs are insulated.
Hybrid tea, park roses are cut by a third, covered with caps made of non-woven material. To make the site look beautiful in winter, see how to make such insulation with your own hands.
How to sew shelters for roses for the winter?
To craft such picturesque gnomes, take:
- non-woven fabric in bright and white color;
- scissors;
- threads to match fabrics;
- a needle;
- gum.
- Cut the rose first. Measure the distance from its crown to the ground - this is the height of the future cone. But you will need to add 4 cm for the bottom turn and 5 cm for a free fit. Let's designate the final value as "A".
- Now on the selected material draw an isosceles triangle. Its equal sides are the "A" value, and the lower sides are the diameter of the crown, plus 2 cm for the seams.
- Now you need to sew the opposite sides of this shelter for roses. You will get a kind of cone. Fold it up twice, sew. Pass an elastic band into the resulting space, it is needed in order to fix the gnome from the fabric on the plant from below.
- Carve out the facial features of this character and his beard and mustache. If you will be sewing these elements on your hands, then you can do it at this stage. If on a typewriter, then grind them in before you sew the sides of the triangle. Make a pom-pom, sew it onto the top of the gnome's head.
Depending on the manufacturer, the nonwoven material can be named: lutrisil, spunbond, agrotex, etc. Choose such that its density is 60-80 g / sq. m.
How to cover conifers?
Many of them also require insulation. Some conifers can do without shelter, but thuja, especially young ones, are better insulated for the winter.
First, from the middle to the end of October, you need to carry out dry dressing. A complex mineral fertilizer... Lay the mulch on top with a layer of 10–20 cm. It is better to use peat. If winter promises to be harsh, then spruce branches are placed on top of the mulch. In the spring, you will need to remove the branches, and the crumbling needles and mulch will be an excellent spring top dressing.
The shelter of the thuja for the winter should protect it from:
- heavy snow cover;
- negative temperatures;
- bright sun in late winter, early spring.
If you bought a very small thuja in late autumn, then it is better to leave it in the same pot for the winter. You can put it on glazed balcony where the temperature in winter is below + 5 ° С. Sometimes pour snow under the plants, which will also become watering.
Here are the materials suitable for covering the thuja for the winter.
- Gauze. This material is cut into strips 50 cm wide, which are fastened together with a stapler. At the top of the thuja and at the bottom, the insulation is fixed.
- Kraft paper. First, the branches of the trees are pressed against the trunk, well wrapped with wrapping paper. The strips must be laid with an overlap, going on the previous one by 10 cm.First, it is necessary to wrap the top of the thuja, then gradually go down, winding the plant in a spiral. To prevent kraft paper from unfolding, it is fixed with wire, stapler, twine.
- Non-woven fabric. You can sew insulation from it, which will last 5-7 seasons, or just tie the plants.
Young thuja are insulated using a frame. To make it yourself, prepare:
- thick slats;
- reliable wire;
- bars;
- metal corners;
- plastic pipes.
It is best to make a triangular frame, this will not collapse under the weight of the snow. Stick slats or bars, pipes, slats around the thuja to a depth of 40 cm. Secure the top ends over the top of the tree with wire. Horizontal crossbars are attached to the vertical ones.
A bag-bag is put on top of this base, to which you need to sew ribbons and tie them around the frame.
Do-it-yourself warming of plants for the winter will allow you to make frames and covers according to the size of a particular plant.
To make the wrapped trees look attractive, you can draw whatever you want on paper shelters, for example, funny faces. Play with the dark tones by using dry sticks here to make a small architectural form that looks like a wigwam.
In early spring, take your time to remove the shelter. It will protect the branches from burning out due to the bright sun. For the winter, you need to insulate not only the branches of the thuja, but also the trunk circle.
To decide which material to use for this, read the presented ones. They can also mulch the soil under other thermophilic crops, adding a touch of originality when insulating them.
How to mulch plants?
Here are the main materials used for this:
- sawdust;
- needles;
- sackcloth;
- brushwood;
- straw;
- Construction Materials;
- spruce branches;
- peat.
Sackcloth
Insulation for plants has been made from it since ancient times. With this material:
- tying tree trunks;
- cover roses, hydrangeas;
- shade conifers so that they do not get sunburn.
Sawdust
Sawdust - beautiful thermal insulation material... But it is better not to cover the whole plant with them, but only the near-stem circle, covering the above-ground part. Some put sawdust in bags and thus insulate crops.
You can use only natural sawdust from wood, and not various secondary processing products, such as chipboard.
It is necessary to mulch the plants only with dry sawdust, as wet preyut. If the shelter is not dry, moisture gets under the crops, then the sawdust should be positioned so that they do not touch the plant trunks. It is better to use large sawdust, they do not absorb moisture as much as small ones.
Sawdust acidifies the soil, so it is better to mulch the soil with them under crops that prefer acidic soil. For example, covering the hydrangea for the winter with such material will be justified. She prefers just such lands.
Under the sawdust, the soil will thaw longer in spring. Therefore, if it is necessary for the plant to wake up in time after winter, it is better to remove them in the spring.
Peat
One of the most successful materials that will allow you to insulate plants for the winter, covering them as if with a feather bed. After all, peat is light and warm under it. Even if it gets wet, it does not retain moisture for a long time.
But like sawdust, peat makes the soil more acidic. Therefore, for crops that like neutral or alkaline, you need to add a little ash or lime, dolomite flour, chalk.
Construction Materials
Some use as winter material like these ones wooden boxes... But first you need to mulch the plant, and put such a box on top. To prevent water from penetrating, the container is covered with foil. But it is necessary to create ventilation systems.
Other building materials are also used:
- slate;
- trimming boards;
- roofing material.
Lapnik
Plants are also covered with it. Plus, it protects them from mice. But it is better not to cover in this way crops that like alkaline soils. The crumbling needles will make the soil in this place more acidic.
It is important to properly harvest spruce branches so as not to break the law. It can be cut, for example, from a fallen tree, but not from a growing one. It is better to photograph this object so that you can prove where the spruce branches came from. The same applies to planned tree felling.
Foliage
Dry fallen leaves - good material for insulation of roots and lower parts of plants. But if the tree is affected by fungal diseases, such foliage is not suitable.
In the spring, it is difficult to remove foliage from under the plants, so it is better to pour it into vegetable nets, to insulate crops in this way, making at the same time a small art object.
You can make a shelter for plants by taking:
- stakes;
- twine;
- dry leaves;
- mesh;
- roofing material.
Straw
If you can get some straw, take advantage of this. This material well suited for warming plants and sheltering beds for the winter. In order to thaw the soil here in time in spring, you need to remove this shelter early enough.
You can make from straw a semblance of a wigwam, a hut, a statue, a scarecrow, so that the shelter of plants for the winter is elegant. But strengthen such an art object well so as not to be blown away by the winds.
Now you can reliably protect the plants in the country, and the shelters will look unusual and picturesque! In the video below 5 myths about sheltering plants for the winter:
With the end of the summer cottage season, sheltering plants for the winter becomes relevant for every gardener. Fundamentally important are individual characteristics of each culture, because the method of shelter depends on it.
Why do you need shelter
Insulation of shrubs and flowers in the garden - important procedure leaving. Its correct implementation will save the garden pet from unfavorable factors Wednesday. Shelter construction is a kind of preparation of plants for winter.
In addition to the main function of the shelter - insulation, there are a number of other advantages of this procedure:
- Protection from rodents that like to profit from tree bark.
- Maintaining the integrity of the barrels. Severe frosts often lead to the appearance of cracks in the trunk. To prevent this, trees are treated with whitewash or covered with spruce branches.
- Defence from sunburn that are possible even in winter. Beginning in February, the sun's rays are detrimental to young bushes up to 5 years old.
There is no set time limit that is universal for all plants. In order to choose the time for warming, it is important to study the characteristics of each culture. This information will help you understand not only when to cover, but also with what. Gardeners recommend not rushing to insulate a tree or shrub with the onset of the first cold weather. Small frosts will not destroy the culture, but excess moisture accumulating under insulation material, will provoke rotting and rotting of the root system.
November is the approximate time for the preparation of insulation, since during this period low temperatures are established.
Video: "How to properly cover plants for the winter"
In this video, you will learn how to properly cover plants for the winter.
What plants need to be protected from the cold
First you need to find out the level of resistance of the garden pet to:
- low temperatures;
- fungal diseases;
- scorching sun rays in the second half of winter.
You need to take into account the climatic characteristics of your region. This is one of the main aspects in choosing a thermal insulation method.
Modern materials:
- Non-woven fabric, such as lutrasil, geotextile, spunbond. It retains heat for a long time, so it is advisable to use it for residents of regions with severe winters. The material is used both independently and as an element of a frame structure. The fabric is classified according to its density: a non-woven with a density of 30 g / m² will protect the plant at a temperature of -7 ° C, and for a material with a density of 60 g / m², the temperature drops to -10 ° C. For agricultural purposes, they use "Agrospanbond" - this is a cover that will reliably protect the plant from a significant cold snap, the scorching rays of the sun, insects and rodents.
- Burlap is an organic material, so it can be buried in the ground without fear of exposure to toxins. When choosing a material as a heater, care should be taken to ensure that there is an open space between it and the plant. Burlap absorbs liquid well. Its excess creates a comfortable habitat for fungal diseases. It is important to use exactly new burlap. If this is not possible, the material should be treated with fungicides.
- Jute mesh is a more expensive type of burlap. It is also much tougher, making it harder to work with.
- The film is able to keep the root space dry. This is definitely an advantage. But the summer resident should remember about the need for good air circulation in the shelter.
- Composite fabric is a tandem of geotextile and fine mesh. The option is used for low-growing shrubs, because the size of the canvas is small. When working with the material, you must first prepare the frame, since the canvas does not hold its shape.
Before you start preparing a flower garden for winter, you need to remember one important fact: The plant receives the lion's share of heat and nutrients from the ground. That is why it is important to provide thermal insulation of the soil.
Covers and frame structures serve to protect from winds, sun rays and precipitation, but not from frost. They are relevant for the Moscow region and other regions with relatively mild winters... In areas with severe frosts, they resort to more substantial methods of insulation.
The main methods of shelter are:
- Hilling. It is a distribution at the base of a tree or shrub of a loose mixture of peat, soil and sawdust. The method is relevant for regions middle lane Russia, where warmth gives way to a sharp cold snap. Hilling is unacceptable if cracks appear on the stem or trunk. This is fraught with the occurrence of a fungal infection and the death of the plant.
- Mulching is often used in the case of bulbous flowers, as they have a superficial root system... The method involves covering the soil with moss, sawdust, foliage and other materials to keep warm.
- Bending down is important for tall thermophilic crops. The technology of this method is very simple: a stake is driven into the ground, to which the ground part of the plant is tied, followed by covering with snow.
- The air-dry method is characterized by the construction of a frame, which is covered with a heat-insulating and waterproof material.
- The air-wet insulation method is similar to the previous one. It involves creating an air gap around a shrub or tree. The stems left after pruning are used as pegs. The plant is covered with a thin matter, due to which it receives required amount liquid, light and air. It is good oxygen circulation that is the main feature of a properly built greenhouse.
Experienced gardeners prepare for the onset of cold weather in advance. During this period, the plants that live in the country or in the apartment need special care. Compliance with the key norms and rules of warming will provide a garden pet with a long life and lush flowering.
In the fall, nevertheless, there are often blessed days when you want, after putting off the most urgent matters, to be in the garden. Flowers at this time look unusually touching. The colors of the garden are added by trees and shrubs changing their clothes.
Autumn worries in the garden.
All this beauty will soon face severe winter trials, and it is in our power to help plants survive the coming cold weather more easily. How to care for flowers and other decorative plantings in autumn will be discussed in this article.
Perennial flower care
Winter-hardy perennials ( daylilies, perennial asters, yarrows, oriental poppy, autumn helenium and others) you need to help quite a bit: cut off after frost, leaving short stumps, loosen the soil around the bushes. If in September we did not have time to feed, we will add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers under the bushes: 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per sq. m.
There is no need to insulate winter-hardy plants, and yet, if possible, we will mulch them with compost or good humus, and later throw them with fallen leaves in case of snowless frosts. If there is not much compost, we will first sprinkle plants that have not been shared or transplanted for a long time: they winter worse than young, well-established plants.
Autumn perennials.
Late planted plants will also require a little shelter: by winter they may not root well enough. Even peonies, which are characterized by increased winter hardiness, if planted in autumn, it is better to mulch with humus or compost.
With Heucher, the opposite is true: they winter well in young age, but over time, their growth buds, rising above the soil level, may suffer in a snowless winter. Therefore, to "mature" plants geyher, and , phlox paniculata it is recommended to add soil in the fall. With the onset of stable cold weather, add soil to the rhizomes irises, to shake it off early in the spring.
What to do with lilies
No shelter required asian hybrids lily... Preparing them for winter, we cut off the stems, making sure that during periods of winter thaws, their area will not be flooded with melt water. If there is such a danger, we make branch grooves.
For less winter hardy oriental and tubular lilies we will store insulation: leaves, grass, compost. We will cover these lilies after the first frost.
How to care for roses in autumn
We must also take care of the roses, prepare them a winter shelter.
Perennials do not need a warm shelter.
After a steady cold snap, we cover insufficiently frost-resistant perennials. We sprinkle them with earth or mulch, cover with a non-woven material folded in two layers, fixing it on wire arcs.
You can also use the materials at hand. For example, cutting off perennials, cover them with soil or compost, cover plastic boxes, on top of which we throw in a non-woven material. Sprinkle the ends of the lutrasil or other material with earth so that it does not blow off.
What flowers are planted in autumn
In the fall, you can plant roses.
We plant bush roses half a meter apart.
In October, we plant bulbs: first - , hyacinths, and towards the end of the month - tulips. Bulbs purchased in a store, as a rule, do not need pre-planting treatment (they have already been processed), but bulbs dug out on your site or donated by friends are better to pickle with fungicide for diseases Maxim the summer resident: soak for half an hour in a solution (2 ml per liter of water), then dry and plant.
We plant the bulbs that we plan to dig up next season more often - after 10-15 cm, so that the flowering is spectacular. If we are not going to dig, we will plant less often, leaving room for the growth of the nest of bulbs.
There is no great need to “insulate” tulips, although a layer of compost or humus will not interfere with them: in spring the flowers will be larger, the peduncles will be longer.
Hyacinths, daffodils need to be taken care of by sprinkling the planting site with compost, humus, and throwing leaves. After snowless winters in the plantings of these bulbous there are "attacks". The bulbs will not necessarily die, but they will not bloom if the frost damages the flower buds.
Digging up tubers of gladioli and dahlias
In October, it's time to dig up the corms gladioli... But if thrips have worked on the plants (colorless "strokes" and "spots" on the leaves and petals), it is advisable to treat them with an insecticide a week before digging ( alatar- 5 ml, aktara- 8 g per 10 l).
If the time for processing gladioli is missed, it is pointless to process in cold weather (thrips goes to “winter” under the corms' integumentary scales), it will have to be processed after digging. Having dug out the corms of gladioli, cut off the stems, leaving hemp 5-6 cm. Dry for a month in a warm place.
After the first frost, we dig out dahlias.
Some shrubs require shelter for the winter.
In the meantime, we spray the bushes with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or a solution of Abiga-peak (40-50 g per 10 l of water) from different kinds leaf spots.
It is advisable to treat deciduous shrubs for fungal diseases, especially if the diseases make themselves felt with spots on the leaves, drying shoots. We cut out diseased shoots to living tissue. Cover the resulting wounds oil paint based on drying oil. Trees and shrubs, on the branches of which mosses and lichens have settled, are sprayed with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.
It is desirable to strengthen the pyramidal crowns conifers, not tightly tying them with twine, so that the branches in winter do not break off under the weight of the snow. The conifers will be saved from burns by the same white non-woven material, loosely thrown over the crown
The lawn also needs autumn care. If a haircut is required, we cut it, but not as shortly as in the summer: in the winter we leave the grass stand 15-20 cm high. We constantly remove the fallen leaves from the grass, under which the grass can disappear during the winter. You should not feed the lawn in October, stimulating it to grow, but you can sprinkle the turf with a thin layer of compost, and then comb it with a rake.