This is a lightweight structure with load-bearing timber structures. Traditionally, wooden floors are laid here, which are distinguished by safety, environmental friendliness and aesthetic appeal. But the high humidity and temperature in the steam room dictate the need for specific measures to drain water and increase the durability of the flooring material.
Types of wooden floors
Important! The best option is to make flooring from softwood boards containing resin, which ensures better preservation of the coating and promotes the release of essential oils. Oak is absolutely not worth using - it is extremely slippery.
Leaky floor construction
This is the most traditional and simple scheme, in which water is removed from the room through the gaps between the boards without the participation of waste communications directly into the ground.
System advantages:
- Cheap construction;
- High construction speed;
- Good resistance to dirt and decay;
- High-quality ventilation that ensures quick drying of the floor.
The main disadvantage is the lack of insulation, which is why the temperature of the coating does not rise above 30 ° C. Mostly such designs are used in the southern regions.
There is an option with a concrete base on the ground, which eliminates the musty smell in the steam room and increases the durability of the floor, but significantly increases the cost of building a bath. With good drainage qualities of the soil, it is more rational to confine itself to backfilling the filter layer.
Leak-proof floor construction
Water is removed in this case by entering through the ladders into the water collector, from where it is discharged through the pipe from the steam room.
Coverage benefits:
- Possibility of building a "warm floor" system, which is a significant advantage in a harsh climate;
- Less heat dissipation compared to a leaky design.
System disadvantages:
- The complexity of the device;
- Tendency to accumulation and reproduction of harmful microorganisms, decay;
- Large consumption of material;
- Difficulty drying.
Leaking floor device
When building on sandy, water-absorbing soils, it is enough to fill in 20 cm of gravel - you will get a kind of filter through which moisture will go into the ground. On clay soils, you must first dig a gutter and take it outside the bathhouse into a septic tank or drain hole.
On the foundation with roofing material laid on it, beams are installed strictly horizontally, which can be made in two versions:
- Beam 100x150 mm made of coniferous wood, treated with an antiseptic. Its length should provide a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm between the beam and the wall. In the middle of the span, you can install concrete or brick columns.
- A metal channel with a height of 160 mm, on which a wooden beam is fixed with screws. The structure is mounted to the foundation by welding or with the help of anchors.
Advice! To ventilate floors from below, between the lower edges of the beams and the ground, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap of at least 300 mm.
Further installation of the coating is made from planed edged boards 30 mm, 2-3 cm not reaching the walls. They are treated with moisture-proof compounds and laid on beams, leaving 5 mm gaps between them. Fasten the boards in several places with self-tapping screws.
Leak-proof option
The basis of the coating is a double boardwalk, which is mounted on logs and does not have any gaps.
Work order:
- The soil is taken out 30 cm relative to the bottom of the doorway and compacted;
- From the middle of the room to the border of the building, a trench is dug for a sewer pipe, at the end of which a siphon is installed vertically;
- The device of the screed and the implementation of its waterproofing, preferably with bituminous mastic;
Attention! To be able to service or replace the siphon, it must be located outside.
- Installation of antiseptic-treated logs from a beam of 50x50 mm through 500 mm and backfilling the space between them with expanded clay;
- Flooring device from boards 100x25 mm;
- Connection to the siphon of the gutter for the entire length of the wall;
- Laying the log in such a way that their cross section decreases in the direction of the drainage system;
- Installation of a finishing flooring from tightly fitted boards;
- Making a series of through holes above the gutter to drain water.
The system works due to the slope of the upper boardwalk - moisture flows to the lower point of the floor and, having gathered in the drainage system, is removed into the sewer pipe.
The floor of the bath under the tile has recently gained wide popularity. This is facilitated by the numerous advantages provided by the use of tiles in the steam room and washing room. Modern ceramic tiles allow you to fully meet all the operational requirements, while having an aesthetic appeal. High-quality and reliable bath flooring with tiles can be equipped on your own, which will significantly reduce financial costs.
Bath floor features
What extreme conditions are typical for the Russian bath? In the steam room, the floor covering is affected by the most aggressive factors: water in the form of a pouring liquid; superheated steam and its condensate arising from contact with the floor surface; high temperature (up to 60-70 degrees), which at floor level drops to 40-45 degrees; mechanical loads. There are no very high temperatures and steam in the washing section of the bath, but heated water flows in a stream here.
Bathroom floor tiles
In such conditions, corresponding increased requirements are imposed on the material of the floor covering, in terms of water resistance, wear resistance, resistance to high temperatures. Ceramic tile is the cladding material that is ideal for a bath. It is able to withstand these extreme impacts for a long time.
Important! When choosing a tile as a finish, it is important to properly prepare the base of the bath floor, i.e. draft floor.
When the floor is set up in the bath for tiles, which one is better is decided taking into account a number of specific factors. The classic floor in the Russian bath is a wooden version. Moreover, the traditional Russian bathhouse is built in the form of a wooden frame. Taking into account certain difficulties, the wooden floor in the bath for tiles fully satisfies the modern trends in bath construction - with proper preparation, ceramic tiles fit perfectly on a wooden base.
Despite the fact that a concrete screed is considered the most reliable subfloor for tiles, a wooden floor is quite suitable for laying tiles on it. The most reliable subfloor is a concrete screed. This design can be perfectly leveled on the surface, and the tiles are laid in the usual way. The concrete bay of the floor under the tiles in the bath has its own characteristics, but all the work can be done by hand.
Features of choosing a tile for a bath
The modern building industry offers numerous varieties of ceramic tiles. In this variety, it is important to navigate correctly and choose the option that is most suitable for bath conditions. Such a tile must meet the following criteria:
- The surface of the tile should exclude slipping of wet bare feet. This condition is met when it is corrugated or rough.
- The tile should have a minimum porosity so that it does not absorb moisture from above or below. The moisture absorption coefficient should not exceed 10%. The most effective porcelain stoneware, which has a value of this indicator in the range of 3.2-3.8%.
- The mechanical strength of the tiles must be sufficiently high. Well suited tiles with a glazed surface, made using double firing technology.
- The size of the tile is selected taking into account the need to form a slope to ensure the flow of water from the surface. Many people prefer to use ceramic mosaic tiles for the bath floor, i. elements about 10 cm in size.
Bath tiles must have a minimum porosity index Features of preparing the floor for tiles
The design of the bath floor has its own specific preparation for the application of ceramic tiles. However, there are general principles that must be followed when arranging a draft base:
1. Making a drain hole. The bath tiled floor refers to a non-leaking structure, which means that water is drained along the floor surface. To ensure drainage in the floor, it is necessary to equip drain holes, which it is desirable to equip with special ladders. The location of the drain can be different: in the center of the room or against the wall. One of the common options is a longitudinal ladder along the entire wall (on one or two sides).
2. Formation of the slope of the floor. An important condition for removing water from the room is to ensure its self-flow in the direction of the drain hole. For this purpose, a slope of at least 10 degrees is made on the floor, for which it is necessary to ensure a level difference of at least 2 cm for every 1 m of the floor.
To remove water from the bath room, make the floor slope at least 10 degrees 3. Drainage system. The easiest option is to drain the water into a drainage pit located directly under the bath. Such a discharge of waste liquid can be carried out with sufficiently loose soil, a deep location of groundwater and in the absence of special environmental requirements. An important condition: the presence of a filter layer of sand and gravel. Discharged water should not accumulate under the bath and create problems for the foundation. A more complex system involves the installation of trays and drainage pipes to collect wastewater and drain it outside the structure into special collections (wells).
4. Waterproofing the floor in the bath under the tiles. A layer of waterproofing material is an indispensable element of the bath floor covering. Moreover, it should be borne in mind that moisture comes not only from above, but also from the soil, especially at a closely spaced groundwater level and during floods. Most often, roofing material is used for these purposes. In addition, a vapor barrier must be included in the floor structure in the steam room.
Features of a wooden floor
Despite certain difficulties, ceramic tiles can be laid on a wooden floor in a bath.
Attention! The main problem is the relative mobility of wooden elements when walking on the floor, which negatively affects the reliability of the tile.
With this in mind, when deciding how to make the floor in the bath for tiles when it is made of wood, it is necessary to provide the following conditions: the elimination of mobility, i.e. strengthening the subfloor, and leveling the surface.
The most common method of laying tiles is considered "dry" When preparing a wooden base for laying tiles, the following basic technologies are used:
1. "Dry" method. It is considered the most common and is based on the installation of sheet material on top of a wooden floor. As it can be used waterproof plywood, OSB, GKLV. In a steam room, it is not recommended to use chipboard, because. in its impregnating composition there are harmful substances that are released when heated. Before laying the sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the base as much as possible, i.e. if necessary, replace the logs and install additional support posts. Reliable waterproofing is necessarily provided on top of the draft structure. The most common way to make it is to apply a layer of bitumen and lay roofing material. The seams between the sheets of the coating are sealed with sealant, and then carefully polished. They are fastened to the base with self-tapping screws, and their hats must be recessed. The surface of the sheet covering is covered with a primer, which will provide reliable adhesion to glue and tiles. In the process of installing the floor, one should not forget about the thermal insulation that fits between the lags. It is made of expanded clay, mineral wool or other heat-insulating modern materials.
In the process of installing the floor, do not forget about thermal insulation 2. "Wet" method. In this case, a concrete floor screed is carried out in the bath under the tiles on top of the wooden base. It is carried out with a special solution, and the thickness of the poured layer is 3-5 cm. The wooden base may not withstand a thicker layer. A damper gap must be left along the perimeter of the floor along the walls 1-2 cm wide. The floor is made in this order. Waterproofing is laid on a rough wooden base in the form of a layer of bitumen, roofing felt, paraffin paper or a thickened polyethylene film. The edges of the insulation are brought onto the walls to a height of 10-12 cm and fastened with a furniture stapler. A damper tape about 10 cm wide is fixed along the walls. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top. Filling is best done with a ready-made leveling mixture, but you can prepare a leveling solution yourself. To do this, mix liquid glass and sand with water in a ratio of 2: 2: 1.
3. Express technology. Sometimes a simpler technique is used, which consists in gluing drywall sheets with increased water resistance to the surface of a wooden plank floor. As a rule, polyurethane glue is used, and the sheets are applied in 2 layers.
Before erecting a concrete floor, the drainage system must be carefully thought out. Features of the concrete floor
In the conditions of a steam room or a washing room of a bath, a concrete floor looks preferable compared to a wooden one.
With the introduction of additives that increase water resistance into the solution, this design does not rot and resists moisture well. It is important to correctly resolve the issue of how to fill the floor in the bath under the tiles.
To ensure a flat surface, the top layer should be poured using beacons First of all, before erecting a concrete floor, a drainage system must be carefully thought out to allow drainage of waste liquid under the floor outside the boundaries of the structure. The construction itself is carried out in the following order:
- careful tamping of the soil and backfilling of a cushion of sand and gravel 12-18 cm thick with compaction (broken bricks can be used);
- pouring the first layer of concrete with a thickness of 5-7 cm;
- laying a heat-insulating layer (expanded clay, felt, mineral wool, etc.) and waterproofing from roofing felt or thick polyethylene film;
- installation of a reinforcing element made of metal mesh or steel wire;
- pouring the second layer of concrete with a thickness of 10-15 cm with the formation of a slope in the direction of the drain;
- surface coating with a primer with an adhesive base for better adhesion to ceramic tiles.
The floor in the bath for tiles can be both wooden and concrete
Important! When making a concrete floor, one should not forget about the drain hole; a place for it is planned in advance, taking into account the location of the drainage system.
The formation of the hole is carried out using a formwork or a vertically installed pipe with a diameter of at least 5 cm. To ensure a flat surface, the top layer should be filled using beacons.
Ceramic tiles have proved to be very reliable and effective flooring in such bath areas as the steam room and washing room, where the greatest humidity occurs. The floor in the bath for tiles can be either wooden or concrete, and all work can be done independently. It is important to correctly approach the implementation of this important event and take into account the features of the floor structure.
The floor in a frame bath differs from the floor in a timber or log bath. It is usually easier to make it in a frame structure and even a novice builder can handle this work.
Features of the floors of wet rooms
The constant accumulation of a large amount of moisture, temperature changes adversely affect the floor in the bath. Therefore, the wood used to create the flooring must be not only durable, but also moisture resistant. You should choose wood species that resist decay. The floor must be comfortable.
The manufacture of the floor in such a structure begins with the installation of the frame. Lags are pre-installed. If piles or posts made of concrete act as supports for the structure, then a large-section wooden beam should be fixed on them. To it, in turn, logs will be attached.
Types of floors in the bath
The most suitable option is to install coniferous boards - spruce, pine. Due to the content of resin in these types of wood, the best preservation of the coating is ensured. At high temperature and humidity, essential oils are released. It is not recommended to use oak for flooring in a frame bath, as its surface is very slippery.
There are two types of wood floors that can be installed in baths:
- flowing structure. Before you learn how to make a floor in a frame bath, it should be noted that this variety has good resistance to pollution and decay. It is designed in such a way that during operation, water is removed from the room through the cracks between the boards into the soil;
- leak-proof design. This type involves the removal of moisture through the ladders into the sump, after which it is removed from the steam room through special pipes. The main advantage of the floor is the possibility of installing a "warm floor" system. This is true in areas with a harsh climate.
Design options for different types of foundations
Depending on the type of foundation for such a structure, different types of floor are used on such grounds:
- pile or columnar. It is most convenient to mount the floor on piles. They are not afraid of dampness or low temperatures. This foundation can be easily corrected in the event of a sudden subsidence. To do this, it is enough to raise the corner with a jack and put a special lining on the pole or pile;
- tape. This base is large. It is made to create a bath, which will have several rooms. The floor in such buildings, most often - concrete. When installing, before pouring the foundation, you need to think in advance in which direction you should draw the conclusion of the water accumulating during operation and stretch the sewer pipe;
- slab. This base is very rare. This is due to the fact that the foundation is quite large. In addition, it is much more difficult to lay communications and drain water. At the same time, it is not easy to heat the bath in the winter months. This is one of the most expensive types of foundation.
Instructions for arranging the floor
The main components of the structure are logs and boards. Before starting work, you need to choose the most suitable dimensions of the mentioned elements and high-quality manufacturing material. It is recommended to use high-quality boards that are three or four centimeters thick, and it is recommended that the logs of the finished flooring be made from a beam measuring 10x15 cm.
It is necessary to take responsibility for the choice of material for the manufacture of logs and boards. Preference should be given to hard coniferous and deciduous species. They are durable and moisture resistant. Lumber must be well dried. Otherwise, all installed elements will deform over time. All logs and boards must be smooth without defects in the form of cracks. This will save you trouble in the future.
Logs are fixed to the racks of the frame structure or stacked on support pillars. First, the extreme lag is fastened. After that, intermediate lags are installed. Fastening is carried out using metal corners.
If the length of the laid logs is more than two meters, then you need to additionally fix the logs on the supports. This design will be more stable and reliable. After that, the laying of the subfloor is carried out. Boards must be laid perpendicular to the joists. When installing a pouring floor, a gap of several millimeters should be left between the boards.
After that, the logs of the finishing floor are mounted in the form of a beam with a section of 5x10 cm. A hydrovapor barrier material is laid on top. Next, a layer of thermal insulation is laid. The insulation is covered with another layer of waterproofing material. Only after that the board is laid. Edged or tongue-and-groove boards are used in the process. Finished flooring (unless it is a leaky floor) should be installed with a slight slope towards the drain.
The main requirements for the floor in the bath are good heat saving, resisting rot, not absorbing moisture, and providing comfort to bare feet. Such a design is easy to organize in a log house. However, modern production does not stand still, and today a steam room can be built using various technologies, for example, using a frame one. What is the difference between the floor in such a bath, how to properly build and insulate it?
In most cases, a wood floor is equipped in a frame bath. Its main components are boards and logs. Before starting work, it is necessary to correctly calculate the dimensions of each part. But since this task is quite complicated, in private construction it is allowed to use average universal values, not forgetting to add 10-15% to the stock.
To create a finishing floor in a frame steam room, it is recommended to take boards 3-4 cm thick, a beam of 10 × 15 cm. The subfloor logs are made of boards, the thickness (in mm) of which should be proportional to the gap between the logs (in cm). For example, if the latter is 50 cm, then the recommended thickness of the boards is 40-50 mm.
When choosing wood, it is better to use durable hardwood or softwood. The material must be thoroughly dried, free of cracks, tears and other external imperfections. Boards are recommended to be selected from the same cut, as this will ensure the same "behavior" of the material after installation.
Creating a floor in a frame bath
In most cases, activities are carried out based on the technology of organizing the floor on the ground, but with minor changes.
Lag installation
The logs are fixed on the supporting frame racks or on pre-installed supporting parts.
In the first case, installation is carried out on a mortgage beam and frame racks. Work begins after treating the base with molten bitumen, as well as impregnating the log with an antiseptic solution. The latter are made from boards 5 × 20 cm.
- First, the extreme logs are fixed, using 8 self-tapping screws on each edge. The length of the fasteners should be enough to penetrate them into the wood by 5-6 cm;
- Then you need to make sure that the log is evenly positioned and pull a rope between them, along which you can control the installation of the following elements;
- Fix the intermediate logs on the lower crown using metal corners. Use 6 bolts in the shelf adjacent to the embedding beam, 5 bolts in the shelf touching the frame post.
A gap of 2-3 mm must be maintained between the walls of the bath and the lags to compensate for the deformation of the wood.
Rough floor installation
Boards are mounted perpendicular to the lags:
- The first board is fixed to the lags with screws or nails, not forgetting to step back a short distance from the wall. If one board is not enough to cover the entire length of the floor, then the second is laid in such a way that the docking takes place strictly on the log;
- Then fix all subsequent elements. The latter is mounted in accordance with the dimensions of the remaining gap. Longitudinal sawing is carried out using a circular saw.
The fixing of the boards is carried out as tightly as possible when organizing a non-spill floor and with small gaps - when creating a pouring one.
Finishing floor installation
The arrangement of the finished floor allows you to perform waterproofing and ensure uniform distribution of loads. Installation work includes several stages:
- Lay the logs perpendicular to the rough flooring using a beam of 5 × 10 cm. The distance between the elements is 60-80 cm. The height of the log should be such that a ventilation gap of 5 mm is provided between the insulation layer and the finished floor;
- On top of the log, fix the waterproofing material with a construction stapler with a slight overlap on the walls;
- Mount the thermal insulation and close it with another layer of vapor barrier;
- Lay the boards (laying scheme is similar to subfloor installation) using tongue and groove material with an attractive appearance.
Important nuance
When arranging a non-leaking floor in a frame bath, it is necessary to remember such an important nuance as the slope towards the drain hole. As a standard, it should be kept within 1-2 cm for each meter of the canvas.
To ensure the slope, U-shaped brackets and adjustable studs are used. Between the walls and the extreme bars leave 4-5 cm, between adjacent logs - 40-60 cm. The logs are fixed in brackets with the necessary slope. Brackets are installed through a gap of 50 cm.
Conclusion
Having finished the installation of a wooden floor in a frame bath, it is recommended to treat it with two layers of drying oil. At the same time, one should not forget that a high-quality design must comply with all technological standards, provide water flow, keep the room warm, be comfortable and convenient.
65 02.10.2019 10 min.
Frame construction is a modern technology for the construction of residential and industrial buildings, during which inexpensive and easy-to-use materials are used. The baths from the frame, installed according to Finnish or Canadian technology, have gained great popularity. This type of construction takes less time than using bricks or logs, and the materials used have high thermal insulation and vapor barrier characteristics. Construction using this technology does not require a powerful foundation, and all work can be carried out independently without the involvement of specialists, due to which you can save the project budget.
The frame bath does not require shrinkage, since only light materials are used, the steam room can be put into operation the very next day after all work is completed. The only disadvantage of this technology is exposure to adverse climatic conditions (snow or rain), but if this point is taken into account at the design stage, problems can be avoided later. In the article we will consider in detail all the stages of building a frame bath with our own hands.
Stage 1: Design
Frame construction is suitable for both the construction of small steam rooms on the site, and the creation of real country houses for relaxation. The choice of design and area depends only on the size of the site, personal budget and needs.
Before starting the main work, you should decide on the construction site of the bath. To do this, it is important to take into account the location of utilities, the relief and layout of the site, the presence of a reservoir and other water bodies nearby. In addition, it is desirable to conduct a geological analysis of the soil, since the type of future bath foundation depends on this.
Upon completion of the preparatory work, you should have in your hands a drawing of the building with all the necessary elements, an approximate estimate for materials for construction. If you are not sure that you can draw up a competent project on your own, it is better to turn to professionals - this will help you avoid serious mistakes and miscalculations in the future.
In the drawing of the bath, you need to display the organization of the chimney, ventilation and communication networks. All elements are closely interconnected, so sometimes a plan in several projections is required.
Stage 2: Foundation
Small baths are usually erected without any foundation, since the building is light in weight. To prolong the life of the structure, as well as to avoid dampness in it, the preparation of the base is essential. For a frame bath, powerful concrete foundations are not used; you can limit yourself to cheaper, but no less reliable counterparts.
Wooden block
They are used for small baths (3x4 or 4x4), especially if the roof and walls are planned from lightweight materials. A wooden foundation made of timber is best suited for clay soils with moderate moisture.
The bar foundation is a hammered stakes underground, on top of which the first beams for the walls are laid. All wooden base elements must be treated with an antiseptic, which reduces the rate of destruction and reduces the risk of fungus. It is advisable to choose a timber from coniferous species, since due to the high resin content it is less prone to decay.
Often this type of foundation is used for the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses.
Columnar
This is the best option for frame construction on a site in which there is a lot of groundwater, and the soil has a heterogeneous composition. Its construction is possible on its own. This will require only a drill, pre-prepared plastic pipes, as well as a cement-sand mixture. Algorithm for creating a column base:
- It is necessary to level the area as much as possible. It is at this stage that special equipment can be ordered.
- Mark the location of future pillars. For this purpose, a regular thread is used.
- Drill holes in the ground, make waterproofing inside them.
- Pour concrete, at the same time mount pipes in each well.
- Fix the pipes at a distance of 20-30 cm, wait for the cement to dry. At this time, reinforcement can be carried out.
- After the pipe has hardened, it must be filled with concrete to the end.
- On the resulting columns, form a grillage from the treated timber.
It takes no more than 3 weeks to work with a foundation of this type. During this time, you can purchase and prepare all the material for walls and roofs.
Installing a beam on a pole
Blocky
It is used for medium-sized baths, as well as when planning the use of a heavy stove. In addition, the base of the blocks is suitable for structures where a cellar or basement is planned. The block foundation is easy to install, but at the same time it has high strength, reliability and long service life. Foam concrete is usually used for blocks, but bricks can also be used.
FBS foundation blocks
The block base can be erected only in areas where the depth of soil freezing does not exceed one meter.
Pile-screw
The best foundation option for building a bath with a large area and a large number of additional rooms. It can be used on almost any type of soil with a low level of freezing. To create it, you will need special equipment, and at least 4 people are needed to carry out all the work. Installation of a pile-screw foundation takes place according to the following scheme:
- Marking places for the future introduction of piles.
- Drilling holes of the required depth. The level is determined by the results of soil analysis.
- Installation of piles, twisting them into the ground. The technology is determined by the budget and the possibility of using specialized equipment.
- Collecting and fixing the strapping.
Types of piles for different types of foundation
As a strapping, you can use a wooden or metal beam. Working with wood is easier, since the process of installing walls is subsequently facilitated.
Tape
The most reliable type of foundation, but its use is possible only on stable soils with a small amount of groundwater. The strip base is the most expensive, since a large amount of high-quality concrete mix is required. Construction algorithm:
- After preliminary marking, you need to dig a trench. Usually its width is up to 40 cm, and the depth is up to 50 cm.
- It must be filled with sand to ground level and carefully compacted. For this purpose, sand should be covered in layers, pouring water over it to shrink.
- Installation of formwork up to 50 cm high. The width is determined by the area of \u200b\u200bthe house, usually it is 50-60 cm. The base of the formwork must be reinforced with metal pipes or rods.
- Concrete is poured in several approaches, so that each previous layer has time to dry a little.
- A waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the base. For this purpose, ruberoid is best suited.
What is taken into account with a strip foundation
For very large baths, it is advisable to use a prefabricated strip foundation. This is the most expensive type of base, having maximum reliability and service life.
Stage 3: Laying the floor
Installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after work with the foundation only in warm regions, if a large amount of precipitation is not planned in the near future. To do this, a bar measuring at least 5x5 cm is attached to the lower lags. After that, processed, but not planed boards or OSB boards are applied to them to create a subfloor. Due to the large amount of water in the washing room, the process of laying the floor in it is carried out according to the following scheme:
- A separate foundation must be made around the entire perimeter so that the floor remains warm even in the cold season.
- The soil layer should be removed by 10 cm. A mixture of sand and gravel is poured into the resulting pit, thus, a natural drainage system is obtained to drain water.
- As a log, it is best to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of up to 10 cm. They are laid directly on the foundation of the washroom and poured with concrete to reduce the risk of displacement.
- A 4-5 cm thick edged board is laid on the pipes, having previously installed rubber pads at the joints.
- After that, the floor can be pressed with a plinth. It is not recommended to process boards with varnish or paint.
Floor device in a frame house
In all other rooms of the bath, the floor is laid according to traditional technology. The thickness of draft and finishing boards can vary from 4 to 7 cm.
Warming
After installing the subfloor, you can begin work on insulation. To do this, roofing material must be laid on top of the boards, and then a layer of insulation, for example, mineral wool up to 10 cm thick or expanded polystyrene. A layer of vapor barrier, for example, glassine, is laid on top of it. Only then can the floor be covered with a finishing material. For this purpose, coniferous floorboards, previously treated with an antiseptic, are usually used.
Do not rush to fix the skirting boards to the floor. In all rooms, except for the washing room, you need to wait until the boards are completely dry, which leads to the appearance of cracks. They will need to be removed later. This process usually takes 4-6 months.
Stage 4: Building walls
Installation of walls on a finished base can be carried out only after the cement has completely dried. Before this, you should make sure that the wooden beams of the frame are completely dry, and also pre-coat them with a layer of antiseptic. High-quality boards made of coniferous wood, linden or aspen are used as frame beams. There are two technologies for installing walls.
On the foundation
First you need to lay the bottom strapping from a strong beam with a section of at least 10x10 cm. Especially carefully you need to prepare the nodal connections, for this, metal corners and long screws are used. To prevent the bottom rail from moving along with the corner posts, it is recommended to pre-install steel pins immersed in the concrete of the foundation.
The base beam must fully correspond in thickness to the beams of the upper trim. Intermediate frame crossbars are installed along the walls, which can be attached to the floor logs using additional end bars for fastening. The distance between them varies from 40 to 60 cm, depending on the size of the insulation boards. At the points of attachment of the crossbars and windows, you need to add an additional rack.
Wall insulation elements
The rigidity of the structure is given by a wooden crate, which is installed both outside and inside the building, usually at the time of thermal insulation work. At each stage of working with walls, you need to use the building level in order to eliminate the bevels that have arisen in time.
Installation of prefabricated walls
When building a small bath, it is more convenient to build walls on the ground, and then they need to be raised and mounted in the base. This reduces the load on the hands, in addition, it is possible to carry out work on the installation of the foundation in parallel with the creation of the wall frame. Mounting the wall on a horizontal surface is also convenient when building a second floor. The work process is identical to the technology presented above. You can familiarize yourself with the process of erecting walls in a bath from rounded logs.
It is most convenient to construct walls on the ground when more than 2 people take part in the construction. Otherwise, there will be problems at the time of installing the frame on the base.
Stage 5: Rafter system
As floor beams and rafters for a frame bath, a bar with a section of at least 15x5 cm, pre-treated with an antiseptic, should be used. They must be placed on edge, and then fastened together with long screws and metal plates. When installing in a vertical position, it is important to fix the common screed with a ridge bar of the same section.
The beams are always released outside at a distance of 40 cm, which subsequently allows you to properly lay the roofing material. The crate for the roof is made of boards up to 25 cm thick, laying it directly from the roof ridge.
When building a small frame bath, the truss system can be assembled on the ground, which is much more convenient if several people work. As a roofing material, soft or metal tiles laid on a layer of thermal insulation and a wind-moisture protective membrane are suitable.
If an attic is planned in the bath, then the floor in it must be insulated. In addition, it is required to think over the ventilation system, since steam will actively accumulate in this room.
Stage 6: Cladding
Facing work is an important part of creating the exterior of a future bath. Despite the fact that the building, sheathed with OSB boards, is completely ready for operation, the appearance is still far from perfect. Today, there are many materials for cladding rooms. Consider the most popular of them.
clapboard
This is what the lining looks like
For baths, decorative or imitation lining is usually used. This is the cheapest and most affordable material, characterized by average characteristics of strength and reliability.
It is recommended to place the boards horizontally, having previously laid a layer of waterproofing, which can be used as glassine. It is necessary to fasten the sheets with an overlap, in order to prevent moisture from entering under the cracks. Often, the seams are additionally glued from the inside - this increases protection against precipitation. After fixing the lining, it is covered with decorative varnish or paint to avoid cracks and decay.
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Thermal panels
This is a modern material, representing a three-layer construction with insulation, usually mineral wool or polystyrene is used for this purpose. The outer surface may have a different texture, color and shape. Usually it is made of artificial stone, clinker or porcelain stoneware, often glazed tiles are also used.
The panels have mutual grooves, so they not only form a monolithic pattern, but also provide reliable protection for the building from humidity, sun and other adverse climatic conditions. They are resistant to mold and microbial activity. As a rule, the outer layers are made of high-strength material suitable for use in interiors and exteriors of buildings.
The use of facade thermal panels is beneficial when heating a building. The material retains up to 40% of heat, while not harming the microclimate inside the premises.
Facing brick
Inexpensive, but high-quality material with which you can decorate a bath in any area. Facing bricks are made of high-class clay, due to which good strength and resistance to damage and temperature changes are achieved. Depending on the manufacturing technology, it can be ceramic, silicate or clinker.
If the laying rules are followed, as well as by adding an additional layer of insulation, it is possible to increase the thermal insulation properties of the building. The material is easy to use, no auxiliary tools are required for work.
Vinyl siding
One of the lightest and most common materials for facing residential and commercial premises. Outwardly, it is an ordinary board for cladding buildings, but does not lose its appearance for 20 years. Withstands temperature extremes, is well washed with plain water, is not affected by fungus and mold. There is a wide variety of colors of vinyl siding, thanks to which the bath will complement the main building on the site. Easy to install, low cost.
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Block house
It is a planed board, made in the form of a profiled or rounded beam. Used for both exterior and interior decoration. It is made mainly from coniferous wood, but you can find models from aspen or linden. Allows you to create the illusion that the bath is built of timber.
After installation, treatment with an antiseptic and a paint and varnish composition is required to avoid rotting and cracking.
Stage 7: Insulation and vapor barrier
Frame structures are highly susceptible to moisture, especially at the time of the temperature difference between inside and outside the premises. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to consider a layer of vapor barrier. For this purpose, aluminum film, special film or glassine is used. It is not recommended to use roofing material - it will exude an unpleasant odor. Usually it is installed at the stage of warming.
The technology of erecting frame buildings provides for the layer-by-layer laying of materials, so the result is the so-called "pie". It usually consists of the following elements:
- outer facing material;
- vapor barrier layer;
- insulation;
- vapor barrier layer;
- inner lining.
The materials should not fit tightly to each other, so a small air gap should be left up to 5 cm thick, which is necessary to increase the life of the building.
You should carefully consider the thermal insulation of the steam room. As a material for it, foil material is usually used, which is laid with foil inside. This creates a “thermos effect”, which allows you to keep the heat inside the room longer. It is recommended to sheathe the walls and ceiling inside the bath with hardwood clapboard (linden or aspen). When using pine or spruce boards, resin will drip onto the body when heated.
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Video
In the video, you can see the main points of the construction of a frame bath to avoid the mistakes of beginners.
conclusions
- Frame construction technology - the best solution for the construction of a bath. It is a strong and lightweight design with high reliability and long service life.
- The choice of foundation depends on the area of the building and the type of soil. For small buildings, a pile-screw base is used, and for large premises, a strip foundation is better suited.
- Laying the floor can be carried out immediately after the completion of the construction of the base of the bath. In this case, special attention should be paid to the washing room.
- Walls can be erected immediately on the foundation or the frame can be connected on the ground, and then installed in finished form. The roofing system is constructed in a similar way.
- When building a frame bath, it is important to consider the design of insulation and vapor barrier. This is always a layered system, which is limited from the outside by the cladding of the building, and from the inside by wall cladding.
- It is also important to consider that the appearance of the bath fits into the big pictureif there is one in your summer cottage. It is optimal that the exterior of the bath be made in the same style as.