What is processed strawberries after harvest. Strawberries: post-harvest care in July and August

Leaves by season

The leaves of garden strawberries are updated three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. They work actively from 40 to 80 days. Regrown in the spring feed the bushes from April to June inclusive, and then, having grown old, gradually die off. After fruiting, spring ones are replaced by summer ones.

The former are important for the fruiting of the current year, the latter for laying flower buds and accumulating nutrients for the future. Then the so-called autumn leaves that go into the winter. With good and stable snow cover, most of them remain until spring. Each gardener must decide for himself whether or not to mow old leaves. Much depends on the condition of the beds and how much time you are willing to devote to caring for strawberries.

I mow because I think they carry a lot of infection. But not at the end of summer, but immediately

after harvest. Timely removal of leaves from the plantation (before the spores fly) significantly reduces the harm from disease, and also prevents re-infection. And it is also important for me that this technique greatly suppresses the growth of mustaches. I do not mow leaves only on strawberry beds of the first year of use.

The procedure itself does not take much time: we take a benzoko-su and mow a bed at a height of 5-7 cm. At the same time, old leaves are almost completely removed and neither the horns nor the growth points are damaged.

The mowed mass is usually sent to compost. Strawberry beds are well watered and fed with a solution of chicken manure (1:15). strawberries good

reacts to it and immediately begins to actively recover. For top dressing, you can use any complex fertilizers (15-20 g / sq.m), it is better if they are with trace elements.

No bare roots!

A good technique is the hilling of strawberry bushes, especially from the 3rd year of life. I also do it after mowing the leaves, combining it with loosening the soil after watering and liquid top dressing. At the same time, I make sure that the heart is not covered with earth.

At the end of August, I pour a 3-4 cm layer of mulch around each bush. I use leaf humus for this. It serves not only as a fertilizer, but also is a heater for the winter, and in the spring it does not allow the roots to become bare.

Strawberry drones - out!

Weed varieties are often found on strawberry plantings.

They either do not produce a crop at all, or bring low - small and non-marketable berries. Such bushes, not burdened with a harvest, throw all their strength into reproduction. Like weeds they choke large-fruited variety. Therefore, it is important to notice the appearance of these weeds in time and destroy them.

On a note

Removal of strawberry leaves is indicated for early and mid-season varieties. In late ones, it is undesirable to mow leaves, they may not have time to grow them before frost, which will significantly reduce the yield next year. It is also not used for remontant and day-neutral strawberry varieties, which will have a second fruiting in the fall, lasting until late autumn.

Practical advice

Do not leave overripe or damaged berries on the beds. Usually they serve as a source of clogging of plantings with seedlings.

How often to renew a strawberry plantation

I have been using fruit-bearing strawberry bushes for no more than three years, not counting the year of planting. I update my plantation usually no later than the second half of August. Young rosettes planted at this time manage to form not only well-developed roots and leaves before winter, but also lay flower buds under short day conditions.

I plant strawberries in the garden in one line. In the first year of growing on the bushes, I remove all the whiskers, except for one or two. In the second year, I repeat the same. I send young sockets to free places. Of these, independently rooted, the most productive bushes grow. The result is long ribbons of strawberries. If I don’t plan to replace varieties, then I use second-year sockets to create new beds. If there is another planting material I remove all the formed mustaches after harvesting the second crop. On the 3rd and 4th year of cultivation, I remove all the whiskers.

With a mustache!

So that my favorite varieties of strawberries do not degenerate, during fruiting I plan the most fruitful bushes, in the future I take mustaches for laying a future plantation only from these “mothers”. I separate the sockets immediately after rooting and plant them on a separate bed. Those that were aged for 10-12 hours in a solution of zircon (1 ml per 2 liters of water) are very well accepted.

Note

The most powerful rosettes in the garden usually give bushes lightly loaded with berries. In abundantly bearing fruits, they grow more modestly. Therefore, to get quality seedlings it is better to plant queen cells on a separate bed and remove flower stalks from them. Or take sockets only from the intended copies.

Who disfigures strawberry bushes

Strawberry transparent mite most dangerous pest strawberries. Most often damages leaves, especially young ones.

As a result, they curl and acquire a yellowish-oily hue, flower stalks become dwarfed, and berries become small. The more pests, the uglier the bushes. Mite breeding is facilitated by warm and humid weather.

It is good to use an infusion against strawberry mites onion peel: 200 g pour 10 liters of warm water and infuse for 4-5 days, then strain the infusion and use for spraying.

You can also prepare an infusion from the onion itself: chop 100 g of onions, place in a tightly sealed container, pour 10 liters of water and insist for 6-7 hours.

Another method is reliable: weed the affected plantation, removing extra mustaches and diseased leaves (you need to remove them from the plants along with the petioles, exactly at the base leaf petioles adult female ticks overwinter), then generously sprinkle the bushes with an infusion of crushed garlic 0.5 kg, pour 3 liters of water, use 300 g of extract per watering can.

After harvesting, chemical treatments are also carried out. The plantation is sprayed after mowing the leaves with one of the preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Fitoverm.

You can finally get rid of the pest by laying beds in a new place. All seedlings (after washing the roots from the soil and tying them in bunches) are immersed in a container with water heated to 45’C before planting.

It is kept in it for 13-15 minutes, after which the sockets are immediately cooled in cold water.

The first two weeks, strawberry plantings will look ugly, but then they will noticeably cheer up.

N. SOLONOVICH, scientist agronomist

I met different opinions about whether it is necessary to cut off the mustache and leaves of the garden strawberry after it has borne fruit. Please advise how to proceed?

D. Dymova Lipetsk region

The post-harvest period requires special attention, because it is very important in the life of strawberries. At this time, the growth of leaves, horns, roots resumes, flower buds are laid, i.e. next year's crop is being formed. Therefore, timely and high-quality care of plants is now needed (weeding, top dressing, watering, removal of whiskers, loosening the soil, pest and pathogen control).

When the harvest of strawberries is harvested, it is best to remove the mustache from the bushes so that they do not deplete the mother plant and do not interfere with the laying of flower buds. However, the mustache with rosettes with which you are going to propagate the variety must be left, and remember that the first and second rosettes closest to the mother plant are considered the strongest.

Whether to remove leaves along with the mustache is an ambiguous question.

In the southern regions, the removal of leaves immediately after harvesting berries is an agricultural technique that increases yields. This is due to the fact that in the conditions of the south the post-harvest period is long and favorable for the development of plants.

If you cut the leaves before July 15 and feed and water the plants well, then leaves and roots will begin to actively form, and flower buds will be laid. By autumn, such plants will develop a strong aboveground and root system, which will positively affect the next year's harvest.

IN northern regions mowing strawberry leaves during this period gives negative results, as the plants do not have time to prepare well for the next year's harvest. So in middle lane this technique should be carried out only if the plants are badly damaged by the strawberry mite.

Then mow and burn the leaves as quickly as possible, right after picking the berries. If the strawberries are not damaged by a tick, then the leaves should not be removed after harvesting in the central regions of the non-chernozem zone, otherwise the plants will not have time to develop a sufficient leaf apparatus and lay flower buds before the onset of cold weather.

The harvest of strawberries (garden strawberries) directly depends on your diligence and how fully you follow the recommendations when caring for it. Often, gardeners ignore the maintenance of the berry after fruiting, which is a mistake.

Many inexperienced gardeners believe that after fruiting, garden strawberries do not need care, and they can be "preserved" until the next season. However, with this approach, one should not be surprised that next year there is no harvest or it is completely scarce. After all, preparation for a new stage of fruiting begins immediately after picking strawberries and continues most season. In this article you will find the most popular tips for how to care for strawberries after harvest.

strawberry care in july

An important component of the July strawberry care is mustache trimming. The fact is that strawberry bushes, which are 3-5 years old, after fruiting actively grow mustaches and spend on it a large number of nutrients. Therefore, they are removed with secateurs to facilitate the development of the plant.

In no case do not cut off the mustache, as this can easily damage the strawberry bush, and the plant will spend a lot of energy on recovery.

Before removing parts of the strawberry bush, it should feed. For 1 sq.m, add a mixture of superphosphate (40-60 g), ammonium nitrate (20-30 g) and potassium chloride (15-20 g). loosen soil between rows to a depth of 10 cm and next to strawberry bushes.

Oxygen for the roots is no less important than water and top dressing, so regularly loosen the soil near the strawberry bushes

Healthy strawberries, which will enter the active growth phase in 5-7 days, should be fed with a mixture of nitrophoska (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and wood ash(1 glass). For young plants of the first year of fruiting, spend 1 liter of the solution, and for those that are older - 1.5-2 liters.

Closer to mid-July, strawberries should be fed fresh chicken manure. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20. Plants are watered from a watering can, trying not to fall on the leaves. 10 liters of solution is enough for 6-8 bushes of adult strawberries and 20-25 young bushes. Fertilizer should be applied after rain or a couple of hours after watering.

In a timely manner pull out the weeds removing them after watering and rain. Also regularly loosen the soil to saturate the root system with oxygen.

Caring for strawberries in August

Not knowing, how to care for strawberries in august, you risk losing your crop next year. The last summer month is often dry and hot. Therefore, it is important to carry out watering at least 2 times a week. The plants themselves "signals" the need for watering - the bushes droop, and the foliage dries up.

You can water strawberries both by sprinkling and under the root - the sun is no longer so aggressive, and there will be no burn on the leaves

If the leaves continue to dry out, become stained, weaken, they should be carefully cutting down and leave only 3-4 healthy leaves for the improvement of the "green mass". The same goes for mustache, which are removed if they are still growing, or if you forgot to do it in July.

Plants can feed with a weak solution of mullein(1:10) or bird droppings(1:20) and loosen the soil. One bucket of 10 liters should be enough for 10-12 bushes. Around the beds, you can form earthen "sides" up to 15 cm high and fill them with water to the top.

And it is also in August that it is recommended to plant new strawberry bushes on the site. It is best to do this in the evening or on a cloudy day. Seedlings should have three true leaves and a developed root system. It is planted in a pre-prepared wet hole.

September strawberry care

Autumn strawberry care differs from summer activities slightly. However, they should not be neglected either.

Strawberries of some varieties continue to form flowers even in September. The berries on them will not ripen before the onset of cold weather, therefore such "single" inflorescence follows cut off. The same applies to mustache strawberries.

Removing inflorescences from varietal strawberries in the fall will help protect them from anthracnose and white spot

Even if the forecasts promise mild winter, feed the bushes. Great for this Ammophos(the contents are added at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m). For "warming" they also bring in rotted chicken manure, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15. Under each bush pour 1-1.5 liters of the composition. Sometimes they use cow dung, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 with the addition of 1 cup of ash. Strawberries are abundantly watered with the resulting composition at the rate of 1.5-2 liters per bush.

IN last time before winter, inspect the strawberry bushes and reject diseased and affected specimens, as well as remove excess whiskers and withered leaves. Don't throw away the "bad" plants, but put them in the compost heap.

Now you know, how to care for strawberries in september. Armed with this information, next year you are guaranteed to get a bountiful harvest.

Caring for strawberries after pruning leaves

Care for strawberries open field implies not only the removal of mustaches and inflorescences, but also leaves. However, you do not need to "bare" the plant completely, because by picking healthy leaves, you reduce the likelihood of the formation of peduncles and fruits, reduce yields and doom strawberries to difficulties during the wintering period. First of all, remove dry and withered leaves affected by strawberry mites. If the fruit-bearing plant is affected almost entirely, then it is easier to cut it with a pruner just above the growth point and burn the remains.

If you need seedlings for propagation, then you should not remove the mustache, you need to give them the opportunity to take root and grow a strong outlet

After cutting loosen the ground and water it. Treat the bushes with a weak solution potassium permanganate and sprinkle ash. To provide good growth kidneys, feed strawberries with universal fertilizer at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of water. Also suitable ammonium nitrate And nitrogen fertilizers(use according to instructions).

Toward the end of September, strawberry bushes can be overlaid straw to protect them from coming frosts. In the aisle, spread the freshly cut grass- it will be the first spring fertilizer.

Caring for remontant strawberries

From mid-September, start caring for the fruiting bushes. Loosen the soil to hide the root system and protect it from the cold. As a rule, at this time, the plants are covered with a "blanket" of cut green manure or mulch the soil with straw, hay, fallen leaves and mowed weeds. Remove the remaining flower stalks so that they do not weaken the plants, but withered cut the leaves after the first frost.

As you can see, caring for garden strawberries after fruiting is easy. Just enough to do necessary complex standard events, and grateful plants will give you a bountiful harvest.

Every gardener loves to collect large crops of strawberries. But its cultivation does not end there. In this article, you can find out what actions are necessary to prepare strawberries for the new harvest season.

Many gardeners who grow strawberries on their plots will not be able to answer how strawberries develop after harvest, and what to do after fruiting. But proper care for strawberries after picking berries becomes the basis good harvest next year. It is necessary to carry out preparations still in autumn.

Strawberry

Strawberries begin to bloom and bear fruit very early. Around the middle of the nurse, the first berries begin to ripen. However, during this time, plants simply could not get all the necessary substances in sufficient quantities to form sweet and large berries.

Here a natural question may arise, how is such a crop formed? The future harvest begins to form at the end of the summer of the previous year. As soon as the harvest of fragrant berries is harvested, the laying of new buds, the growth of flowers and the growth of mustaches begin. At this time, it is very important to take care of strawberries.

It should be taken into account that various varieties strawberries will ripen differently. Most varieties finish fruiting in early summer. However, the most late varieties remontant strawberries may ripen until mid-August. Therefore, the timing of events may be subject to change.

Straw mulching

pruning

After the end of the fruiting period, the foliage on the strawberry bushes begins to die off and be replaced by a new one. Thus, the strawberries themselves get rid of the old leaves after harvesting, what should the gardener do (video) in this case? It is necessary to help the plants get rid of excess old leaves and cut them off.

Reasons to get rid of leaves:

• Old leaves can no longer participate as effectively in the process of photosynthesis. Nutrients for their maintenance require much more than the benefits that they can bring. If the leaves begin to turn yellow and die due to their old age, then you should help the plants and carefully remove them.
• Leaves should be removed if they have been affected by diseases and or ticks. Such leaves must not only be cut off, but also burned in order to completely destroy the infection. The tools that will be used to trim the leaves must be disinfected so as not to spread the infection to all plants.

After such a procedure, it would be appropriate to feed the strawberries so that the roots of the strawberries have time to gain nutrients before the winter period.

In the same period, mustaches begin to actively form. It is important to know when processing strawberries after harvesting what to do with the mustache. Whiskers for strawberries are a means of reproduction. If there is no need for this, then you can cut them all. Otherwise, 1-2 best copies are left. They tuck in neatly.

It is not advisable to start trimming the mustache. In this case, all the nutrients necessary for laying new buds will be spent on the development of whiskers and rosettes, which will still be cut off.

The processing of strawberry bushes should be carried out constantly, but the main part of the work falls on the period after fruiting. If after such processing the strawberry bushes turned out to be completely without leaves, you should not panic. Before the onset winter period she will have time to grow new foliage.

Weed removal

There is nothing complicated in loosening the soil, although there are some features that should be considered when carrying out this agrotechnical event.

• The soil between the bushes is loosened carefully, but gently and not deep. The main part of the roots is at a depth of 10 cm. You need to loosen so as not to affect the roots.
• When loosening, the soil should be lightly hilled so that the side roots are underground.
• The question may arise when caring for strawberries after harvest, what to do with weeds. Weeding and removal of weeds is very convenient to carry out simultaneously with loosening.

top dressing

During flowering and fruiting, it is not recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. They promote the formation of new foliage. And this is not very good for ripening berries. But after the end of fruiting, everything changes dramatically, and fertilizers containing nitrogen are especially necessary for strawberries.

Top dressing strawberries

Watering

Before the onset of the winter period, watering should be carried out regularly. Watering is very important for caring for strawberries after fruiting, what to do next and how to properly water can be found below.

• The soil must be kept moist. This can be ensured by regular watering.
• Frequent and surface irrigation do not give proper results. It is better to water strawberries rarely, but plentifully. Abundant watering every 7-10 days is considered optimal.
• To protect the soil from drying out quickly, it should be mulched with peat or a non-woven covering material should be used.
• Watering should be carried out in the morning or in the evening, otherwise the strawberry leaves may get burned.

Conducting a full-fledged irrigation after harvesting will positively affect the quality of the crop, which can be obtained in the next harvest year.

Treatment for diseases and insects

Diseases and insects can wreak havoc on strawberry crops. In some cases, this can lead to the complete destruction of all plants. Therefore, it is necessary to annually treat plantings from the most common pests and diseases. It is better to do this after harvesting, so as not to disturb the flowering and ripening of the berries. How the signs of the disease appear on strawberries after harvest, and what to do (video) to combat them, can be found below.

Diseases

powdery mildew

• Powdery mildew. The disease is quite common and manifests itself in the form of the appearance white plaque. The spores of the fungus overwinter in the affected parts of plants and are dispersed by the wind upon the onset of favorable conditions. It can lead to a slowdown in the development of berries and further drying.
• Gray rot. A small patch of gray or brown color begins to appear on the berries, on which a gray mossy coating then forms. Such berries begin to rot very quickly and become unsuitable for food. On the foliage, such signs are much less common.
• Brown spotting. The fungus develops on old leaves from mid-summer. A sign of the disease is the formation of brown spots. The fungus negatively affects the formation of flower buds, which can adversely affect the future harvest.
• Phytophthora rot. Brown spots appear on the berries, which gradually pass to the entire surface of the berries. The berries themselves acquire a bitter taste and fall off. Dark green patches of heterogeneous shape form on the foliage.
• White spotting. It manifests itself in the appearance of brown spots on any part of the strawberry bush. Later the spots become white. The fungus reduces the yield of bushes on which it has managed to develop.

Pests

Pests can cause the destruction of the entire crop. They easily overwinter in plants, and in the spring they begin to feed on their juices. Therefore, it is very important to know the signs of their appearance on strawberries after harvest, and what to do to get rid of these pests.

spider mite

• Nematodes. Small and indistinguishable worms that usually live in the soil. They reproduce very quickly. They stick to the accessible parts of the plant, feeding on its juices and poisoning with their enzymes. They are very difficult to remove, and in advanced cases it is necessary to change the soil.
• Strawberry tick. Pretty small insect. Winters at the base of the leaves. Tick ​​larvae feed on plant sap, after which wrinkling and yellowness appear on them, and then they die off altogether.
• Strawberry-raspberry weevil. A small black beetle, only 3 mm long. They overwinter under the leaves. With the onset of heat, young individuals begin to feed on foliage and buds. With the beginning of flowering, female beetles begin to lay eggs in buds.
• Small black bevel. Small black bugs, up to 5 mm long. They hibernate underground, where they lay their eggs. Larvae prefer to feed on roots, and young beetles prefer leaves.

Prevention

The best way to protect your crop from pests and insects is to carry out preventive measures.

The structure of the strawberry bush

• To protect plants from diseases and pests will help the cultivation of resistant varieties.
• It is not for nothing that compliance with the rules of crop rotation is considered the main one in gardening. You can grow strawberries in one place for no more than 2 years in a row. Then it should be transplanted to another place.
• Most strawberry diseases are fungal. Therefore, after harvesting, the site can be treated with fungicides for prevention. This is highly recommended if signs of disease have been detected.
• The use of insecticides will help to destroy most of the insects that live on plants and feed on their juices. This procedure should be carried out after harvesting, so as not to interfere with flowering and not turn the berries into an inedible poison.
• Weeds often become a haven for pests, so they should be removed from the site as soon as possible.

Compliance with these simple rules will help prepare strawberry bushes for wintering, and in the spring the efforts expended will pay off in the form of a rich harvest. Knowing how strawberries develop after harvest, and what to do (video), having removed all the berries, you can develop an optimal plan for growing these plants.

The strawberry crop is harvested, but there is still plenty of work on the site. A caring owner will properly prepare the bushes for wintering, carry out the necessary agrotechnical measures.

Processing strawberries in the fall from diseases and pests is the key to a good condition of plants in the spring and a rich harvest. Experienced gardeners give helpful tips for the care of a strawberry plantation.

Preparing the plantation for winter

Mandatory operations:

• removal of old, dried leaves. Be sure to pluck the greens affected by spotting, powdery mildew. Take the plucked strawberry leaves away from the beds, burn them so that the infection does not spread. It is important to remove the tendrils so that the plant can easily overwinter;
• pruning after harvest. Many summer residents agree with the statement that removing part of the leaves is a necessary manipulation. The improvement of the plant by destroying damaged, dry leaves will benefit strawberry bushes. During the fruiting period, the amount of nutrients has decreased, the plant needs rest. For this reason, do not give up autumn pruning strawberries. A smaller number of hosts disagree with this statement;
• bush transplant. Optimal timing performing an important operation - once every 3-7 years. If the time has come, it's time to start transplanting the plantation. The first outlet (closest to the mother bush) must be planted: next year, fragrant berries will delight the owners;
• top dressing. Soil fertilization is carried out not only in spring and summer, but also in autumn. You will need granules with valuable components from chicken manure or mullein, diluted slightly warm water in a ratio of 1:10. Pure organics for feeding should not be used: a burn of the leaves is possible;
• pest control. For the destruction of pests, the prevention of the appearance of strawberry mites, whiteflies, weevils, folk remedies and effective preparations are recommended. Prepare the product according to the instructions, process all plants, soil. It is important to monitor the concentration of the composition: for strawberries, the consumption rates of insecticides are often lower than when processing apple trees or grapes;
• shelter bushes for the winter. Mandatory operation for regions with any climate. Suitable materials: dry sprigs of raspberries, spruce branches, straw (mice sometimes start in it), pine and spruce needles. Hay and straw can be used provided that an electromagnetic or is installed on the site. Needles or spruce spruce branches - best option. In frosty winters with little snow, cover the aisle with a thick layer of mulch. You can build a shelter over the bushes of agrofibre. Spunbond, agrotex materials deserve positive feedback.

Important! Weed control is a prerequisite for the excellent condition of the strawberry plantation. If the owners paid insufficient attention to this operation in the summer, they will have to catch up in the fall. Weeds should not be allowed to winter quietly along with strawberry bushes: in the spring it will be difficult to remove cereal crops. For autumn processing, herbicides with Lenacil are effective.

Disease control

Most often, strawberries are affected by fungal infections:

• gray and black rot;
• powdery mildew;
• brown and white spots.

Timely spraying with effective drugs will prevent infection dangerous diseases, will keep the plants until spring. Before buying a product, you need to consult with experienced gardeners, listen to the opinion of the sellers of the specialty store. Many drugs and folk remedies have earned positive reviews.

Against powdery mildew

Effective formulations:

• Sulfaride drug. Optimal ratio components: water - 10 liters, fungicide - 2 tablespoons. Stir the mixture for five minutes, pour into a spray bottle, carefully walk through the beds with strawberries. Treatment of leaves with an effective acarofungicide will prevent the development of a dangerous disease;
• colloidal sulfur. To prepare a solution with a concentration of 1%, you need to take 100 g of the active substance per 10 liters of lukewarm water;
• potassium permanganate. Great option with a milder effect - a solution of potassium permanganate of medium strength (rich pink color);
• zinc sulfate solution effective at foliar top dressing strawberries. For 10 liters of water, 20 g of the substance is required;
• drug Topaz- Another effective remedy. Systemic fungicide based on penconazole is a concentrated emulsion for the preparation of a working solution. To process a strawberry plantation, it is enough to prepare a solution of medium concentration: for 10 liters of water (temperature 30 degrees), you will need 1 ampoule of Topaz. The effect after spraying lasts up to two weeks. Windless dry weather is suitable for spraying the product;
• copper-soap emulsion. Pour 3 liters of water into a bucket, add 200 g of grated laundry soap and 5 g blue vitriol, stir, pour another 7 liters of liquid. Mix the prepared emulsion thoroughly (4-5 minutes), spray the plants after harvesting.

Against gray and black rot, white and brown spot

Effective means:

• copper oxychloride. For 10 liters of warm water, 1 tablespoon of the active substance is enough. The greatest effect is noticeable when spraying the composition in spring, after flowering and in autumn, when the crop is already harvested;
• drug Nitrofen. Processing is carried out in late autumn. Dark brown paste dissolves well in warm water. The tool is effective not only against rot, scab, but also for the destruction of pests: aphids, mites. To prepare a working solution, take 10 liters of liquid plus 150 g of the product. Process not only the bushes, but also the soil around them. Gray rot, dangerous leaf spot after spraying with Nitrofen appear extremely rarely;
• universal remedy. It will take 3 tbsp. l. warm sunflower oil, a couple of tablespoons of ordinary vinegar and wood ash, 500 ml liquid soap plus 10 liters of heated water. Prepare an emulsion of the active ingredients, mix according to standard scheme with water, spray the plants, the soil near the bushes.

Pest control

Effective methods and formulations:

• against transparent mite. Summer residents positively evaluate the effect of the drug, Kleshchevit and wood ash;
• from and snails. Recommended Metaldehyde. On the square meter soil enough 5 g of an effective drug;
• from weevils, strawberry beetles,. High efficiency show Actellik, Intavir, Aktar;
• universal compositions are suitable for combating various types pests, including the dangerous strawberry nematode. Popular means: Carbamide, Heterophos, Fundazol, Skor, Vitaros;
• from . Effective Method- a thorough check of leaves and twigs, the destruction of pests, the collection of rotten parts of the plant in preparing strawberry beds for winter;
• against . The danger of defeat is in the active infection of neighboring bushes. When pests appear, remove diseased shoots, burn them. After the destruction of the insects, you will have to remove the top layer of soil (the larvae accumulate in this area), pour a decoction of yarrow, red pepper or garlic, add new soil.

Processing time

When preparing strawberries for winter, it is important to consider the variety of berry crops. Experienced summer residents it is recommended to observe the timing of spraying, depending on how many times the plant bears fruit.

• remontant varieties, the fruiting period of which lasts all summer and part of autumn, treat with preparations before wintering;
• ordinary varieties (Gigantella, Mashenka, Zephyr) should be processed in late July - early August, without waiting for the cold weather;
• cover bushes after preventive measures special material or coniferous branches to protect against low temperatures.

Processing strawberries in autumn using effective drugs And folk remedies will reliably protect plants from diseases and pests. You can not skip the procedures for preparing a strawberry plantation for the winter cold: lack of attention, negligence reduce the yield, allow weeds and pests to freely host on the beds. Infection with fungal infections is dangerous not only for strawberries, but for the entire site.

If you are growing berries in your area, then you need to know about the diseases and pests of strawberries. The video provides information about autumn processing strawberries from diseases and pests, when, how and how to process it:

Caring for garden strawberries after picking berries is over is the first step in preparing the bushes for winter. There is no unequivocal opinion among gardeners whether it is necessary to cut strawberry leaves during this period. Some consider this procedure, carried out after the harvest, mandatory, others - disastrous. If you are in doubt about whether to cut off the old foliage on strawberry bushes, read this article and find out the gardeners' recommendations from the video.

Do I need to prune garden strawberries: pros and cons

After fruiting is completed, the old strawberry leaves fade and die off, gradually ceasing to benefit the plant. In parallel, young foliage grows on the bushes, which is responsible for photosynthesis. At the same time, fruit buds are laid, which will yield next year's harvest. You need to take care of its quality and quantity right away, without postponing this matter until the spring.

Proponents of post-harvest strawberry pruning make the following arguments:

1. After cutting the foliage, useful substances circulate only through the roots and are not spent on green mass. root system becomes more powerful, accumulates vitamins and minerals, and this has a positive effect on the berries.
2. The procedure increases the resistance of plants to cold weather.
3. Removing foliage is a rejuvenation and healing of the bush. Pruning saves strawberries from pests and fungal diseases that can go to young leaves.

Damaged leaves can be removed after harvest.

But the procedure also has significant disadvantages:

1. Due to pruning of green mass, the bush develops much longer. ABOUT early harvest in this case, you can forget.
2. Many pests that lived on the leaves fall into the soil. There they quietly winter, almost without fear of frost. It is better if the cold catches insects on the foliage.
3. Together with the leaves, fruit buds are destroyed. Harvest will give only those that appear in the spring.

Given all the advantages and disadvantages of the procedure, a compromise option will be optimal. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to prune only diseased, damaged leaves. If there are no signs of ailments or traces of pests on them, it is better to leave the beds untouched. It is also definitely worth removing dried leaves or those that are covered with spots. Therefore, after the harvest is harvested, you need to carefully examine the bushes and make a decision that is suitable in your case.

Attention! Pruning is not needed for young plants, but only for those that are at least 2 years old.

Proper strawberry pruning and other post-harvest procedures

There are no exact dates for which the procedure should be planned. Pruning is most common in early August. If the variety of garden strawberries is not remontant, then by this time the culture usually completely completes fruiting. For pruning, choose the morning or evening of a dry day when there is no strong sun or rain.

Attention! Pruning remontant varieties is, in fact, thinning: removing stems, leaves, and tendrils that thicken the bush.

When shortening the leaves, you need to do this not at the root, but leave the stems 10 cm long. For these purposes, it is best to take a pruner or sharp scissors. It is not recommended to mow greens, even if strawberry plantation very big. After all, this can damage young foliage. It is better not to touch the bushes at all or to remove old and diseased leaves selectively, manually.

It is necessary to loosen the earth around the bushes

Very carefully, right under the root you need to cut the antennae. You can not cut them off with your hands - take the same scissors or secateurs. Otherwise, you risk damaging not only the bush, but also its roots. For propagation of the variety, you can leave the first outlet. Remove the rest so that the plant does not waste energy on them.

Attention! After the procedure carried out after harvesting, strawberries do not need additional pruning for the winter.

Having rejuvenated and healed the bushes, loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm. Avoid areas near the roots - work between the rows. Spill the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate. If you notice signs of disease, use Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide.

Be sure to feed the garden strawberries. Suitable for these purposes:

• biohumus;
• pieces of dry manure;
• compost;
• ash (but not in combination with fresh manure);
• ammophoska;
• complex mineral supplement.

Do not fertilize strawberries with chlorine - she does not like it. Don't forget to water. At first, moisten the bed about every other day. So young foliage will grow faster, which means your garden strawberry will be protected from frost.

Care for strawberries after harvest: video