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A few words about chainsaw sharpening

The chainsaw is an indispensable tool for suburban area, regardless of its size and the age of the garden. But it is not enough just to become the owner of a good tool, you still need to ensure its correct operation. The most difficult moment is the sharpening of chains for chainsaws. This requires the study of their structure and the ability to properly use auxiliary tools.

Determining when it is time to start the procedure is quite simple. A well-sharpened tool does not require much effort to enter the tree. As soon as you need to increase the intensity of pressing, you need to sharpen the saw chain. Excessive wear and tear also affects other important indicators:

• decreased performance;
• tension in the body increases;
• fuel consumption increases;
• the load on all links increases, reducing the life of the equipment.

With timely sharpening, less metal is removed, which means that the service life of the chain increases.

The chainsaw will best helper on a suburban area

A well-sharpened saw ensures safe and productive work. This is practically no different from others. cutting tools... But the many teeth and the complexity of their structure turn sharpening into a painstaking process. If you have the necessary tools, you can do the work yourself. But before you sharpen the chainsaw chain, you need to study the structure of the tool, especially the teeth.

• The tooth has two edges: upper and lateral. The first is beveled at an angle in the direction of blade movement.
• The cutting link consists of a base, a tooth blade, a depth gauge. The blade, in turn, has a horizontal blade, falling back at an angle, and a vertical end blade.
• The difference between the top line of the depth gauge and the front line of the back of the tooth determines the thickness of the chips. This is usually 0.5-0.8 mm (ideally 0.6 mm). With each sharpening, this distance is reduced due to the reduction in the upper edge of the tooth. Therefore, it is necessary to make a control cut after 6-8 sharpenings.
• It is the corners that provide the cutting properties of the chain.

The back corner of the top edge is the most important. Its value can be from 50 to 60 °.

The back angle of the end blade is formed by a backward tapering tooth blade. It plays a role in the side cutting of the chips.

The rake corner forms the edge of the end blade with the sliding surface of the cutting link. Depending on the type of chain, its value is 60-85 °.

The chain tooth has a complex structure, but after studying it will be easy to sharpen

The sharpening angle is determined by measuring at right angles from the top cutting edge to the guide bar.

Important! Chainsaw chain sharpening angles can be different, but you need to remember the basic rule. When cutting soft wood (non-frozen), productivity is higher the larger the angle. And to smooth out vibration when cutting hard wood (or frozen wood), you can reduce the sharpening angle. At the same time, the lowest indicator is 25 °, and the highest is 35 °. For rip chains only, the sharpening angle is 10 °.

The file must be held at a certain angle

The frequency of manipulations depends on the frequency of using the technique. When working in a private courtyard, the procedure may be needed only after a few months, but when a chainsaw is operating for professional purposes and three times a day, it is not enough.

The working condition of the chain can be determined by its elongation and the type of chips that are formed during sawing. If the saw is well sharpened, the same sawdust comes out correct shape... If blunt, the chips are fine and sharp, with big amount wood dust (similar to sawdust formed when working with a conventional hacksaw).

Important! The chain dulls faster if it hits the ground. Moreover, one touch is enough.

If this happened unexpectedly, and you do not know where to sharpen the chainsaw chain, then you will have to master the skills yourself.

A special set is sold for sharpening the chain at home. It should be purchased together with a chainsaw, so that you do not have to quit your job and go to the city if the machinery "plows" the land.

The chain sharpening kit should be purchased at the same time as the chainsaw

You can choose the necessary tool yourself. These should be cylindrical (a holder is attached to it, which will "tell you" along which line to direct the tool) and flat files, a template, a hook for removing from chips. The vise will greatly simplify the process (free your hands).

In order for the first sharpening of the chainsaw to be successful, the video will become visual aid and the best helper.

It is more convenient to process the teeth in one. The cutting tools are sharpened first. For this, a template is superimposed. Its arrows should point in the direction of travel of the chain. When sharpening, press on the front, making a slight slope towards the surface of the tire. Movements should be easy and measured, the same number of times for each section. One tooth must be sharpened on the left, the other on the right.

Important! If the length of the teeth is different, grind everything down to the shortest length.

The position of the cylindrical thin file should be such that its edge protrudes slightly beyond the upper edge of the tooth and is located at a right angle.

A thin file should be used to grind the stop tooth. The template should not be neglected. The marks on it will tell you how to properly sharpen the chainsaw chain so that unnecessary waste does not appear and vibration does not increase:

• S (Soft) defines the angle for working with soft wood;
• H (Hard) - with hard or frozen rocks.

While sharpening their teeth inner holes become wider. It is this parameter that does not affect performance, but the bases of the holes should be located horizontally.

Even if the work is arguable and is not as tedious as the first time, you still need to take all measures to do this procedure less often without prejudice to the normal functioning of the equipment.

• Run in a new chain before use. To do this, after installation, you should run it for 1 minute at low speeds and the same amount at medium. Such manipulations will ensure lubrication of all parts with oil, heat the sprocket and chain. You can also check the tension. If it is necessary to adjust it, wait until the tool has cooled down, and after the necessary actions, warm it up again with idle speed.
• Do not use a new chain with an old drive sprocket and vice versa. Change sprocket after sewing two chains.
• Always check the chain tension. If stretched, it may slip and injure the operator.
• The depth gauge must always be tucked in and adjusted. This must be checked every fourth sharpening.
• Ensure constant oil supply good quality and enough for the chain, guide bar and sprocket. They must be lubricated constantly.

But even a good master cannot always do without by hand... If the chainsaw was used without attaching importance to the sharpening of the chain, its cutting edge becomes completely shapeless. Then it is more rational to use the machine. They are of several types.

With such a device, one tooth can be sharpened in 3 movements.

• A manual machine is more of a chainsaw sharpener than a machine. Its working part resembles bow saw... Only a long cylindrical file is inserted instead of the cutting blade. The configuration mechanism is rather complicated, but it allows you to set all the necessary parameters. For processing one tooth, 2-3 movements are enough.
• The electric is equipped with an abrasive disc. The adjustment system allows you to accurately set the chain at a certain angle, brings the disc to the sharpened edge. A protective shield can be added to prevent sparks and chips from entering the eyes.

Electric machine provides high precision and fast work completion

An automatic chain sharpener will do the job best. But not always there is such equipment and an experienced specialist who can quickly carry out the work. The process of mastering the manual method of sharpening will take some time, but the skills will remain “for life”: a personal chainsaw will always be in perfect condition, and the neighbors will ask for help or advice.

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Chainsaw chain sharpening angle. How to choose the right one?

Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: once the teeth of a chainsaw wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips formed. With a blunt cutting edge, the chips are small, because the working edge does not cut, but crumples the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases dramatically. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do it right - choose optimal technology, to establish what angle of sharpening of the tooth should be and how to check it?

External signs of a blunt cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

Recall that the chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of chain movement. It has two working edges: the lateral one, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and the upper one, located at a certain angle to the direction of the chain movement. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the removed chips. Since the main cutting effort falls precisely on the working angle, then all subsequent work with the tool will depend on which angle to sharpen the tooth.

Figure 1 - Functional parts of the chainsaw tooth and their appearance

Before starting long-term work with a chainsaw, she needs to inspect and perform test sawing, as a result of which:

1. Visually establish the presence (or absence) of a tapered section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as radius curvature on it - the main signs of bluntness (see Fig. 2).

1. Check the feed force at which the tool runs stably, with a fast cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant material resistance.
2. Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut - if they are felt, then the teeth must be sharpened.
3. Inspect the appearance of the just cut end (especially if the tool is used for ripping). In the presence of rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.

Chainsaw sharpening angles and tooth configuration

The cutting edge of a tooth is characterized by the following parameters:

In addition, each model of the tool has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is associated with the power of the chainsaw, and the torque that the drive develops. For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is taken less (for example, 0.325 inches). In this case, the productivity of work will decrease, but the required effort will be significantly lower. The upper values \u200b\u200bof the steps for household chainsaws are extremely rare, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. In this case, the motor power should not exceed 2500 W.

The thickness of the cutting edge for most chainsaw manufacturers is set the same, and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely are of little use: they can only be used for cutting thin branches).

The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in most cases it is a low profile that is used for household gas powered tools. When sharpening the limiters, this parameter is very important, because with a decrease in the height of the above-permissible values, the vibration of the tool increases during operation, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get carried away with lowering the height of the limiter when sharpening a tooth.

The angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain depends on the main purpose of the tool - for cross cutting or ripping. Since the resistance of the wood is always noticeably higher when ripping, the edge of the tooth must be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6 ... 12 ° (for comparison - with the predominance cross cut - up to 25 ... 30 °). Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since an unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping during the operation of the chainsaw. This is especially important for links that are made of structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40KhGS or 35KhGSA.

Chainsaw chain sharpening template

When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values \u200b\u200bof the tooth angles. With its help, the values \u200b\u200bof the rear angles of the upper and end blades are controlled, as well as the front edge angle (it is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, and can vary within 65… 80 °).

It is especially important to use a template to estimate the value of the clearance angle of the upper blade. This angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain is very difficult to determine otherwise, but meanwhile it must be maintained within a fairly limited range - from 50 to 60 °.

Measurement of the sharpening angle is performed by determining the angle between the upper cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide.

The angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what work will be done. With an increase in the hardness of wood, its value should be lower. In general, it is considered the optimal value of the angle 10 ... 12 ° - with a longitudinal cut, and 25 ... 30 ° - with a cross cut.

Figure 3 - Appearance of the template for sharpening the teeth of a chainsaw

Sharpening can be performed manually using a round file with a working diameter of 4 ... 5.5 mm, or on a machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool in relation to the sharpened tooth. The upper edge of the working part of the file is approximately one fifth higher than the upper edge of the tooth. The tool is positioned perpendicular to the chain axis, and at an angle of 25 ... 30 ° to the upper edge of the tooth

One round file is not enough. You will need a flat file to sharpen the limiter, and a hook to remove the resulting sawdust to clean the work area. There are also special holders on the market, on which the lines of the direction of movement of the file relative to the axis of the chain are graduated. As seen from Fig. 4, the holder can be installed on top of the tooth and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required set in order to obtain the correct sharpening angle of the chain by hand is shown in Fig. five.

Figure 5 - A set of sharpening tools and accessories

First, the teeth are sharpened in one direction, and then in the other. Start with light pressing of the tool away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

Mechanized sharpening on the machine

Sharpening on the machine is much more convenient and does not require high qualifications of the performer. Such machines have an electric drive and are equipped with special grinding wheels.

For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much space during storage and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units must operate from a stationary electrical network with a voltage of 220 V, have a low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on a circuit.

When choosing a machine, you need to pay attention to its following technological characteristics:

• Possibility of processing teeth with different thickness of the upper edge and different chain pitch;
• The ability to adjust the sharpening angle, within the limits specified earlier;
• Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
• Constant value of the cutting width.

The design of the machine is simple, and includes a drive motor, shaft with seat for a sharpening disc, a handle with controls, a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the pressing force on the sharpened element is provided by a spring clamp. Modern models of sharpening machines are equipped with a differential clamp, which provides for the self-centering of the product on the machine. For the convenience of work on the clamp body there is a measuring scale.

Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature light bulb that produces backlight working area, as well as a hydraulic booster to facilitate sharpening.

The safety of work is ensured by a folding safety guard.

Sharpening the rip saw chain by hand

We drag the saw chain for sawing wood along the grain. We prepare the saw headset for work with a homemade thicknessing device for chain saws.
Tools: file with guide (file holder, file holder) Champion, supplied with Champion 254-18 chainsaw.
The standard angle of sharpening of the cutting edge of the tooth for saw chains intended for sawing wood across the grain is 35 ^. For sawing wood along the grain, an angle of 10 ^ is required. It is rather difficult to find such a chain outside the areas associated with logging operations. Chains of this type are mainly sold in coils of several meters, which is quite expensive for non-professional use. AT finished version, for the Champion 254-18 chainsaw, I managed to find only one chain - a chain with soldered Stihl Rapid Duro 3 0.325-1.5-72 stars.
For this reason, it was decided to use a common saw chain, regrinding it for sawing along the fibers. Do not forget to grind off the cutting depth gauge https://youtu.be/k25ztzraRzE.
Comprehensive information on the selection, care and maintenance of saw chains can be found here: http://www.stihl.ru/p/media/download/ru-ru/saegekette_schaerfen.pdf
Information on caring for the saw chain, bar and troubleshooting when using chain saws on sawmills from Logosol is here: http://www.logosolinfo.ru/cms/downloads/skarutrustning_1-16_web.pdf

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The cutting tooth of the saw chain consists of a tooth base (1), a tooth blade (2) and a depth gauge (3). The scapula of the tooth has a vertically located end blade (4) and an upper blade (5) falling at an angle backward, located horizontally.

The cutting links are sharpened in a specific way to give the chain optimal cutting properties

Allocate the following sharpening angles

Upper blade clearance angle

The posterior angle of the upper blade is formed by the back of the tooth falling back at an angle. This angle is required to cut the upper blade into the wood.

Back angle of end blade

The backward tapering scapula forms. This angle is required for lateral chip cutting.

Front corner

The edge of the end blade forms with the sliding surface of the cutting tooth rake angle... The rake angles of the individual saw chain types differ: for example, Rapid Duro carbide chains have a 65 ° rake angle, while Picco Micro X rip saw chains have a rake angle of 80 °.

Upper blade front angle

Upper blade front angle characterizes the backward tilt of the upper blade. This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting tooth and is, depending on the type of saw chain, from 50 ° to 60 °. The top blade is the main blade and the front angle of the top blade is the most important angle. It is difficult to measure, but it is very important for efficient sawing.

Sharpening angle

The sharpening angle or, in other words, the entering angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at a right angle to the guide rail.

The sharpening angle of individual types of saw chains varies somewhat depending on the conditions of use of the chain.

Rule of thumb: the larger the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting non-frozen softwood. Reducing the sharpening angle when cutting frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother running of the chainsaw and a decrease in vibration.

The rake angle, the sharpening angle and the upper blade angle change when sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the saw chain - always observe the prescribed values.

Our company repairs and sharpens saw chains using proprietary equipment in compliance with all the sharpening angles prescribed by the manufacturers.

Chainsaw - necessary tool for household needs, He will find a worthy application in the country. Chainsaw is easy to cut firewood for a stove or fireplace. She also shows herself well, and every owner of such an assistant should know the right angle. Calling a specialist at home, and even more so at the dacha, costs a lot of money. Therefore, you have to do it yourself.

While it is best to outsource sharpening to a professional, some woodcutters have learned the craft on their own. If specialists in forestry have to sharpen the chain 3-4 times a day, then the ordinary gardener does not have such a need due to the fact that he rarely uses the tool. How can you master the craft yourself? There are some guidelines for this.

Features of the chainsaw

Sawing a tree is like working with a plane. In this case, the size of the cut depends on the thickness of the limiter. When the saw chain is used intensively, the teeth become dull faster. This is clearly manifested when the ground surface appears in the path of the chain. To completely blunt the teeth, it is enough to "catch" on the ground for a couple of seconds.

If you sharpen as often as possible, the chain will last much longer, since very little metal will be removed. In addition to the question of what angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain should be, you should also know this!

Working with a blunt tool is undesirable for a number of reasons. First of all, this is reflected in the quality of the cut, and not in the better side... Fatigue also quickly sets in, which is felt not only in the hands, but also in the body.

Another reason is the unjustified excessive consumption of fuel. All parts will work in an enhanced mode, which inevitably leads to their rapid wear. Performance drops dramatically, which also happens when using a defective chain.

Features of the chain structure

To effectively be able to sharpen a chainsaw chain, you need to know the structure of its teeth. You cannot do without knowledge of the sharpening angle. Every tooth is different complex structure... Its geometry is represented by the following components:

• the basis;
• scapula;
• depth gauge.

In this case, the blade consists of two blades: end and top. Moreover, between them there must be the correct sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain in order to provide it with the necessary performance.

As you can guess now, it is not the chain that cuts the tree, since it serves as the basis for securing the cutting links, moves them at high speed. The links themselves have sharp blades, with the help of which the wood is cut.

How do you know when sharpening is needed?

It is possible to determine whether the teeth of the chain are sharpened or not, according to some characteristic features. Of course, it all depends on how intensively the chainsaw is used. It is worth taking a closer look at what kind of shavings it leaves. Its uniformity and square shapes indicate sharp teeth. If the chain is worn off, then it usually leaves behind wood dust, and the sawdust itself resembles the needles that a hand saw "produces".

If the cutting speed is reduced, then this is also considered a sign of a dull chain. An increase in the load on the instrument itself and the appearance of vibration are felt. Some of these signs are not always easy for beginners. Therefore, they should pay more attention to the quality of the chips. Sometimes it is brown, which is already guaranteed to indicate that it is time to sharpen the chain.

Sharpening methods

To sharpen a tool, you can turn to the services of craftsmen who not only know what angle of sharpening chainsaw chains is needed, but also do all the work quickly and on professional level... As a rule, the cost of such services is not so high, but the quality, on the contrary, is very high! This option suits those lovers of forest felling who do not have the desire to tinker with their tools.

It will be interesting for everyone else to try their hand at such a thing. Professionals in this regard always choose automatic equipment that is characterized by maximum efficiency and accuracy. Of course, not every lumberjack can afford to purchase it, and therefore they manage in different ways. And here, among many amateurs, discussions are being held on which technique is better to give preference to:

• manual;
• alternative;
• modern.

Do not neglect the signs of dullness, but at the first need to start the operation of sharpening the chainsaw chain. This will allow you to use it as long as possible.

Correct angle values

The angle is not a constant value, regardless of the manufacturer or model of equipment. It is selected taking into account what kind of tree you have to deal with. You can choose an average value, but the efficiency of the cut may be ineffective. For this reason, it is necessary to choose correct value, taking into account the specific type of wood.

When it comes to hard wood, including those trees that have been "frozen" for a long time, it has a high resistivity... In this regard, the sharpening angle should be reduced. This will virtually eliminate the occurrence of vibrations, and the chain will run more smoothly. The minimum value is 25 °.

In a relationship soft varieties wood, you can increase the sharpening angle, but not more than 35 °. This will significantly increase productivity. The sharpening angle of the rip saw chain is 10 °. In this case, the cut will be as smooth as possible, and the vibration of the equipment is minimized. Knowing these features, you can proceed to consider different ways sharpening.

Manual method

This is the simplest and slowest method for sharpening chain teeth. Nevertheless, the method is good when sharpening is done on the spot in the forest. Can't carry a whole machine with you all the time ?! But here it is worth being more precise - not one instrument is meant, but a whole set, which includes:

• flat file;
• round file;
• template.

Each of them performs their duties. The main purpose of the flat tool is to sharpen the depth gauge.

The round file is already performing the main operation, making the cutting edges sharper. Moreover, each chain requires a certain tool diameter:

• step ¼ inch - 4 mm;
• pitch 0.325 - 4.8 mm;
• 3/8 inch pitch - 5.2 mm;
• pitch 0.404 - 5.5 mm.

A file with a diameter of 4 mm is also suitable for Picco chains, which are equipped with Stihl 180 chainsaws with a 3/8 and a quarter inch pitch. It is important to hold it correctly. With respect to the vertical plane, the file must be placed strictly perpendicular to the chain, and with respect to the horizontal plane - at a slight angle (about 30 °). The specific sharpening angle is selected depending on the needs, but within the range of 25-35 °.

Unlike sharpening a chainsaw chain on a machine, the angle can be set here using a template, which is considered a useful assistant. For this, it has two slots: SOFT / S (for softwood) and HARD / H (for hardwood). The template should be pinned over the chain to give it delimiter privileges.

Just keep in mind that this method is not intended for permanent use, but only serves as a dressing of the blades. Using the file too often will wear out the chain over time and the teeth will not sharpen evenly.

Grinder is a good alternative

Professional lumberjacks consider this method to be primitive and labor intensive. It is used as a last resort, since the grinder cannot be fixed on the template. For this reason, it is very difficult to achieve a constant angle and depth control.

The tire is securely fixed in a vice to prevent its movement during operation. You should not attach a new cutting disc to the grinder, it is better to use an old disc 1.5-2 mm thick.

It is better for beginners not to use this method at all - they will be more whole. There is a risk of serious injury to yourself. In addition, there is no way to do without skills in working with such equipment.

Modern method

Almost every non-professional is worried about the question, what is the angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain on the machine? You won't be able to use a file all the time, it is difficult to use a grinder, and for beginners this procedure is completely dangerous. There is nothing you can do about it, you have to use machines, which can be both mechanical and electrical.

FROM manual machine you will have to work for an eternity, and you get pleasure from using an electric analogue. Today there are a wide variety of models to choose from that provide

• correct sharpening angle;
• high level of work quality;
• high sharpening speed.

It is also worth noting that sharpening is done evenly in relation to all links. All you need is to plug the equipment into the network, set the required angle, enjoy the spectacle or do other things. The cost of such machines varies from 2 to 4 thousand rubles. But the most important thing is that it will not be difficult to determine the angle of sharpening of the "Calm" chainsaw chain on the machine.

Although it takes a long time to tinker with manual equipment - the process is very long, but it costs several times cheaper. By appearance the machine resembles a bow saw, only instead of a blade - a file round shape... The smallest tooth is also taken as a basis. In this case, two or three movements are enough for sharpening, after which you can move on to the next link. If necessary, process the limiter - the file changes (the round file is replaced by a flat one)

Sharpening rules

Sections of the same type for each link must be treated uniformly. Otherwise, if in any one area there is an excessive sample of metal, then ultimately this leads to imbalance, uneven stroke and jerks during the operation of the chainsaw. The load on the mechanism increases many times, which in turn threatens to break the chain.

Therefore, the operation should be carried out at the required angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain calm 180 (as well as any other tool) should be done with extreme caution, avoiding excessive force. The procedure itself is performed sequentially, that is, you need to start on one side, then finish on the other.

In some cases, you can observe that one or more cutting edges have sharpened more. This happens when the chain on its way bumped into a knot, which occurs when cutting.Then it is necessary to determine which of the teeth was worn off the most and to equalize all the other links along it.

After sharpening is completed, blow the chain with air from a compressor or pump, and then place it in a container with engine oil on a short time... Usually few people do this, but for the chain it will be useful.

Some useful tips help keep the equipment in good working order, as well as eliminate the risk of injury. Of course, it is necessary to know the correct sharpening angle of the "Calm" chainsaw chain. But also important timely care behind the bus:

1. Check this Especially if the chainsaw tilts to one side during operation. Poor tension can be dangerous to humans.
2. Carry out sharpening in a timely manner, without putting everything on the back burner. It may be expensive, but it is better to give preference to electrical equipment.
3. Lubricate the entire chain regularly, otherwise it may fly off (its speed is about 100 km / h). Everyone will make his own conclusions.
4. Do not use used automotive oil or any product of questionable quality. It is worth choosing only specialized lubricants. As the best remedy - autol.

Before starting to work with the chainsaw, the chain should be run in. Let it run at minimum speed for 40-50 seconds. The lubricant will reach every part, and the chains with a sprocket will heat up a little, rub against each other.

All these expert advice should not be ignored if you want to remain safe and sound!

Finally

The angle of sharpening of chainsaw chains is selected based on which tree needs to be cut. If you have free time and desire, it will not be difficult to restore the equipment to work. Even an amateur who has worked as a file at least once in his life can cope with the work. Of course, for this you will have to spend from 30 to 700 rubles to purchase a sharpening set. The approximate cost of services for sharpening the chain in some company is 200-300 rubles. The final choice is up to the lumberjack.

The chainsaw can be called a fairly common tool that is used to cut wood. Mechanical processing in this case is carried out by means of a special saw chain, which is fixed on a special tire. Long-term and incorrect operation quite often becomes the reason why you have to dismantle and sharpen. At the same time, today there are no problems with removing the chain for ripping and putting it on, but there are still problems with direct sharpening. Let's consider the features of such a procedure in more detail.

The modern rip saw chain is well represented complex design, which is made using high-quality steel, characterized by increased wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Among the features are the following:

1. The design is represented by separate links, which are interconnected in a special way. This provides a high level of flexibility, the rip saw chain can follow the complex shape of the bar.
2. There are several different types of inserts for use: cutting, guiding and connecting. Cutters carry out direct material removal.

The natural process of operation becomes the reason for the wear of the cutting inserts. In addition, violation of the operating recommendations can also lead to a similar result, for example, if soil gets into the cutting zone.

That is why all owners of such a tool should pay attention to exactly how sharpening is carried out.

Sharpening the chain for rip sawing, as a rule, is carried out exclusively when worn, periodically the procedure is extremely rare. That is why you need to know which signs indicate the need for such a procedure. Among the features of the issue under consideration, we note the following:

1. The chain saw of a chainsaw rip is characterized by a complex configuration, so it will not be possible to identify defects simply by visual inspection.
2. A trial sawing is carried out to check the condition of the teeth. If vibration occurs while performing such work, this indicates the need for sharpening.
3. You can also determine the condition of the rip saw chain by visual inspection of the chips. Rough chips and dents also indicate a need for service.
4. The pressure of the chainsaw is also taken into account when assessing the condition of the chain. At first, when sawing, the plates easily enter the material, but with severe wear, even at the beginning you have to apply force.

A visual inspection can also reveal curves and tapered areas that indicate chain wear and other defects. However, such a symptom can only be detected by a specialist with extensive experience.

Grinding angles and saw tooth configuration

As noted earlier, the product in question is characterized by a rather complex configuration. Among the features modern options performance, the following points can be noted:

1. The choice of a chain for ripping is carried out for a specific model of a chainsaw, since the configuration largely depends on the power and some other points.
2. For rip sawing, the insert pitch is 0.325 inches. This ensures high stability at the time of operation.
3. The cutting edge can be 1.3 mm thick. On sale there are also versions that have a thickness of about 1.1 mm, but they are difficult to sharpen at home. In addition, the small thickness allows cutting thin branches.
4. Attention is also paid to the height of the profile, which varies in the range from 0.625 to 0.762 mm. For domestic versions, the low profile version is suitable. This indicator determines the likelihood of vibration at the time of sawing.

The sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain largely depends on the purpose of the tool, as some are suitable for cross-cutting, others for sawing. The longitudinal sawing resistance of the wood is very high, so the edges must be very sharp. The recommended sharpening angle is 6-12 °. The difference in cutting angles is selected depending on the task at hand, as well as some other points.

When doing the work, do not forget that too low a sharpening rate becomes the reason for the rapid grinding of the edge. This point is most important in the case when the product is manufactured using alloy steels, for example, grade 40HGS.

Chainsaw sharpening template

To significantly simplify the procedure, it is recommended to purchase a special template, which greatly simplifies the procedure for setting the required angle. Such a tool allows you to check the value of the clearance angles of the conical and upper blades, as well as the leading edge of the cutting edge.

The experts point out that it is most important to use a template to control the clearance angle. This is due to the complexity of changing this indicator, while it must be kept within a strict range.

A fairly common indicator is the grinding angle, which also varies depending on the task at hand.

Too high hardness of the material determines the need to reduce this indicator. Experts point out that the optimal value varies in the range from 10 to 12 °.

Quite widespread are special tools that can be used to simplify the procedure. Similar machines equipped with special electric drive and with increased wear resistance.

Small tools are suitable for home use. Such devices can be powered from a 220 V network, and the power consumption indicator is 100 W. The installation of the chain is quite simple, the sharpening procedure can be carried out even without special training.

When choosing a machine, attention is paid to the following points:

1. Adjustment of the sharpening angle within a certain required range.
2. Possibility of processing chains with different pitch and thickness of the cutting edge.
3. Features of the procedure for changing the grinding discs.
4. Control of the value of the cutting width.
5. Installed electric motor power and energy consumption indicator.

In conclusion, we note that mistakes made at the time of sharpening can cause increased chain wear. That is why, with frequent use of the tool and the absence of a required sharpening machine, it is recommended to entrust the work to professionals who provide the appropriate services.

The first chainsaws appeared at the beginning of the 20th century. The chains installed on them with straight and flat teeth, like those of modern hacksaws, were characterized by low efficiency, quickly dull and required very laborious maintenance. For example, when sharpening, it was necessary to take into account that the teeth are divided into undercutting, cutting and shearing, they have different cutting angles and orientation with respect to the direction of movement (they can be deflected to the left, right or located in the center).

There is no doubt that attempts to modernize the chains have been made several times, but only one of them ended in success. Developed by Joseph Cox and implemented in metal in 1947, the new chain for universal sawing with an L-shaped contour cutting angle, thanks to increased productivity and simplified sharpening, very quickly replaced its predecessor from the market, and now almost everything saw chains "Flaunt" the characteristic sickle-shaped profile of the cutting links.

Saw chain technical parameters

Picking up chainsaw chain, pay attention to its characteristics such as purpose, pitch, guide link thickness, profile height and cutting depth.

It is known that sawing wood along the grain is more laborious than across, and for best results it is advisable to use chains that are appropriate for the task at hand.

The main difference between longitudinal and transverse type chains is the angles of attack of the cutting links. For cross-cutting chains, they are 25–35 degrees, for longitudinal angles they are sharper - from 5 to 15 degrees.

The use of chains inappropriate to their purposes threatens either with reduced performance (if cross cutting is carried out longitudinal chain), or increased "aggressiveness", strong vibration and additional load on the engine. However, many users prefer not to waste time changing the chain and longitudinal cuts are made with the same chain as the cross cuts, especially if the "quality" of the cut obtained does not require compliance with the "highest" level. Therefore, chains for ripping saws are in demand in smaller quantities, and they are produced in a volume commensurate with demand. It is not surprising that such a chain is much more difficult to buy than a cross-over one. And the question of their acquisition becomes really relevant if it is supposed to use special machines like mini-sawmills.

Chain pitch - the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. This is a defining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing chains are divided into five groups with a step of 1/4 ″, 0.325 ″, 3/8 ″, 0.404 ″ and 3/4 ″.

Step 1/4 ″ (6.35 mm) inherent in miniature chains mounted on low-power single-handed saws. True, in Russia they are practically not used.

Chains with steps 0.325 ″ (8.25 mm) and 3/8 ″ (9.3 mm) are the most common options. More than 80% of the saws produced worldwide are equipped with them.

Steps 0.404 ″ (10.26 mm) and 3/4 ″ (19.05 mm) features larger chain links and higher performance. For several decades, they were used to complete Russian-made saws, but now they are installed only on powerful felling saws and harvester equipment.

The step is traditionally measured in inches, and written as follows: three numbers - in ordinary, and two - in decimal fractions. This is to avoid confusion. In particular, the result of translating 3/8 ″ into decimal is 0.375 ″ - the difference with the previous standard (0.325 ″) is only one digit.

The larger the chain pitch, the larger its constituent links and the higher its performance. But on the other hand, the wider the cut, and a more powerful saw is required to overcome the cutting resistance. Chains with a small pitch have other advantages - more teeth per unit of length, smoother movement in the cut and, accordingly, less vibration. And the cut they get is cleaner.

Drive link thickness (shank) is the second most important parameter. During operation, the chain slides into the groove of the tire, and this sliding should be smooth, without snags and at the same time without unnecessary "bumpiness". In short, the thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove must strictly correspond to each other, increasing the reliability of the chain fit and excluding the possibility of its "dismounting". The international community of manufacturers provides five standard sizesmeasured in inches or millimeters (whichever is more convenient): 1.1 mm (0.043 ″), 1.3 mm (0.050 ″), 1.5 mm (0.058 ″), 1.6 mm (0.063 ″) and 2, 0 mm (0.080 ″).

1.1 mm - such thin drive links are characteristic of the smallest chains and saws of the corresponding size.

1.3 mm - perhaps the most demanded size inherent in household and semi-professional chains.

1.5 mm - takes the second place in demand. Suitable for more powerful and efficient saws.

1.6 mm and 2.0 mm - such thick shanks are found only on chains for highly professional saws.

Profile height... Saw chains are available in high or low profile depending on the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide bar. The former are used for professional purposes for maximum productivity. The latter are installed on amateur-class chainsaws, since they are safer due to the increased support area at the cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cut chips.

Depth of cut - the amount of clearance between the top edge of the tooth and the cut stop, which controls the thickness of the chips. Most often there are samples with gaps of 0.025 ″ (0.635 mm) and 0.030 ″ (0.762 mm), less often - with gaps up to 0.070 ″ (1.778 mm), but they are designed for machine felling units.

The depth of cut largely determines the performance of the chain, its cutting speed. The larger the gap, the higher the performance. But in the pursuit of efficiency, one should not forget about vibration: chains with a shallow depth of cut in the cut move softer, less "twitch". Therefore, manufacturers, in an effort to balance vibration and productivity, very often install cutters with a minimum depth of cut on the chain with a large pitch, and vice versa.

Engine capacity... This parameter characterizes the saw and, it would seem, has nothing to do with the chain itself. However, catalogs and short circuit annotations often give the sizes of the engines for which they are designed to work. And these recommendations should be followed. The chain, installed on an engine that is too powerful for it, will experience heavy loads and fail ahead of time, without having exhausted its motor resource. Variants of loads on the motor and other important components of the saw itself.

Chain components

Any saw chain consists of three types of links: cutting, driving (shanks) and connecting. Rivets provide the strength of the connection.

- perhaps the most complex part of the saw chain, which actually consists of two parts: a depth stop and a cutting element with an L-shaped contour cutting angle.

The upper cutting edge of the link is always wider than the chain and bar itself, so that the cut is quite free, and the cutting resistance is minimal. The tine works on the principle of a plane: the further the knife (upper cutting edge) is extended above the plane of the plane (cutting limiter), the thicker the chips.

Numerous factors determine the performance of the cutter link, namely the top facet and working angle, cutting angle, side facet (angle of attack) and cutting stop height. When sharpening, the values \u200b\u200bof all these parameters must be strictly observed, since even a small change can lead to negative consequences.

Cutting teeth are right-handed and left-handed, and they are reinforced on the chain alternately. But in general, incisors are divided into types depending on their profile. A careful study of the "shapes" formed by the top and side faces, one can distinguish two "boundary" options: a "seven" with an acute angle between the edges and a rounded "sickle". The first option is called a chisel (from the English chisel - cutter, chisel), the second - a chipper (from the English to chip - to chop into chips).

Chisel tines are characterized by high performance and cutting speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller contact area with wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance. This is a professional version, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, it quickly becomes blunt when working with "dirty" wood, and when sharpening it requires precise adherence to all angles and parameters.

The crescent-shaped profile - the chipper - is less effective, since the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the wood is somewhat larger, but it is also much easier to take care of it - the rounded corner does not react so painfully to minor errors in sharpening. These links are good for dealing with contaminated wood.

All other options for profiles are various modifications of the two described above.

Top and side face the cutting element is usually covered with a thin film of some kind of hard metal. Most often it is chromium, but sometimes a nickel-phosphorus alloy is used. The electroplated coating significantly improves the antifriction properties of parts, increases wear resistance, hardness and, in fact, performs all the main work of chopping wood fibers. The steel "core" serves as a substrate or base for the coating.

Leading links (shanks) provide the movement of the chain by transmitting rotation from the motor through the drive sprocket, as well as a stable position of the chain on the guide bar. In this case, the chain moves along a special groove provided in the design of the guide bar. A “side” responsibility of the drive link is to distribute lubricant from the drive sprocket (where the oil pump delivers it) throughout the bar and chain. It should be noted that the number of shanks plays a major role in the designation of the chain length for a specific bar length, which makes it easier to select and match the size.

Connecting linksTrue to their name, they combine cutting and driving parts into a single unit called a saw chain.

Cutting link parameters Types of cutting links The order of the links

Technological improvements

The cutting link concept developed by Joseph Cox has changed little over the years. Of course, they tried to modernize it, but all the improvements being made concerned either the lubrication system, or the fight against vibration and feedback.

Lubrication system... Chain and bar lubrication is a very important factor. Chainsaws are designed with a pump that supplies oil from the tank to the cutting system through special holes. But further it is distributed by the chain itself. Shanks, passing the sprocket, "grab" the lubricant and "pull" it along the entire bar and chain. For this, the lower part is made in the form of a hook - so that they "grab" more and "lose" less. For additional retention of the lubricant in the shanks, special holes are drilled or channels are milled. In the lubrication system, connecting links are often used - additional grooves are made in them for lubrication.

Abundant lubrication reduces friction and heat, thereby not only extending the service life of each element, but also reducing chain stretch. So it is in the best interest of every user to constantly monitor the lubrication process. It is carried out quite simply: when the chain accelerates, microscopic drops of oil (if it is supplied in abundance) form an oil trace in the form of a strip on any light surface (for example, on a tree trunk that is going to be cut) if you bring the end of the tire to it. No trace - an alarm indicating a lack of lubrication and requiring an immediate solution to the problem (checking for oil, cleaning the tire groove, adjusting the pump, etc.). And one more thing: modern chainsaws allow the installation of chains and tires of various lengths, but before using a new headset, you need to make sure that the oil pump can handle it.

To improve the lubrication process, many manufacturers in Russia offer special oils. They are made on a plant basis (for example, rapeseed) with the use of polymer additives that are self-neutralizing within two hours when they come into contact with plants and soil. In addition to the environmental benefits, these oils are 30% more lubricating than automotive oils. And their consumption is about 25% less.

Anti-vibration and kickback... Vibration is dangerous because, as a result of its prolonged exposure (as is the case, for example, in professional fellers), the so-called Raynaud's symptom can develop: as a result of deteriorating blood supply, the fingertips lose their sensitivity and react painfully to temperature changes.

The desire of manufacturers to reduce the harmful effects of high-frequency vibrations is mainly reduced to the development of special shock-absorbing parts. Vibration is caused by the constant collision of the cutting teeth with the wood. At the moment when the cutter strikes the wood with the working edge, it stops for a fraction of a second, being sandwiched between the tree and the guide bar. In this case, part of the shock energy is transmitted by the wave through the chain and the drive sprocket to the operator's hands. Another part is also communicated through the chain to the guide rail and, again, to the operator's hands. If you reduce the force of the impact, then the vibration level will also decrease.

The chamfered cut stop helps reduce shaking - thanks to it the chain moves softer, the wood slides more smoothly from the cutting tooth. The same purpose is also served by special shock-absorbing protrusions on the driving and connecting links.

Another effective method is a beveled or raised heel of the cutting link. This design allows the saw chain to sag slightly at the moment the cutting tooth hits the wood, and the link does not immediately hit the tire, and the force of this impact is noticeably reduced. As a result, not only vibration is reduced, but also tire and chain wear.

These structural elements are also designed to help with a kickback - a situation that occurs when the user touches a hard surface with the toe of the tire while the chain is moving (if we draw an analogy with the hour dial - the sector "from 12 to 3 o'clock"). In this case, the saw bounces sharply, creating a traumatic moment. The angled cut stop and cushioning lugs minimize this effect.

The order of the links

Saw chains are classified based on their dimensions, design features and the order of the links. It can be standard, with a half-pass or a pass. In the first case, there are two leading links for each cutter. In the second, every third cutting link is replaced by a connecting link. And finally, in the third case, a connecting link is installed in place of every second cutting link.

It is almost impossible to buy a ready-made chain with a "non-standard" alternation of links - they are not found in stores. It's another matter if the chain is riveted on its own. Artificially high distance between the incisors reduces their number, and, consequently, reduces the cost. However, increasing this distance increases vibration and decreases productivity and cutting speed.

Saw chain care and maintenance

The saw head - that is, the chain, bar and drive sprocket - are consumable, and, of course, when purchasing a user, the question is: how long will this material last? But there is no exact answer here, since the “shelf life” of the above mentioned parts largely depends on the type of work that will be performed with their help, on the degree of care for them, etc. Dirty saw material and rough handling will significantly reduce service life. For example, if the tip of the tire touches the ground during operation, the sharpening quickly "leaves" - sand (ie abrasive) in combination with a high speed of movement very quickly "demolish" it. A nail in an old log cut for firewood is sometimes capable of ruining even a new chain without hope for resuscitation. And there is no need to remind that such moments are dangerous not only for the chain and saw, but also for the operator himself.

If all the parts are lubricated on time and with high quality, the teeth get proper and accurate sharpening, then one tire will be enough for about one drive sprocket and three or four chains. Moreover, it is advisable to use the chains alternately: today - one, tomorrow - another, and so on in a circle. Then the tire, sprocket and the chains themselves will wear out evenly. If you use only one chain, leaving the others "in reserve", then when it comes to them, they will work with "slippage", experiencing additional dynamic shocks while moving, and will fail much faster. This is because the drive sprocket will wear out for the configuration of the first chain shanks.

Running in a new chain - the sequence of actions recommended by specialists, which ensures her a long "working" life. The first step is to soak the chain in oil for several hours. The meaning of the event is obvious: the lubricant manages to flow into all the small cracks, reliably "saturate" the parts and rubbing joints. The second step is to install the chain on the bar and run it for a short time. idle... After stopping the engine after that, you need to check the chain tension and, if necessary, tighten it, after cooling it down. And after that, after making several cuts with minimal pressure on the tire and rechecking the chain tension, proceed directly to work.

Chain tension - very important point... A chain that is not tight enough will wobble and may come off the tire or even burst. Padding also does not bode well - it is excessive wear and increased engine loads. In addition, the design of almost all saws is such that the tension of the chain also strengthens the tire - in the "relaxed" state, the tire moves freely left and right. To check it is enough in the upper part of the bar, approximately in the middle or slightly closer to the tip, take the chain by the tooth and pull it up. With the correct tension, approximately one third of the shank remains in the bar groove. If more - the chain is overtightened, less - not stretched. In this case, the chain itself must move freely by hand.

Grease... We have already mentioned the need for thorough lubrication of the chain. But even if the chain and saw are equipped with different lubrication systems, pre-soaking the chain in oil will not damage it, but rather reduce frictional wear and ensure a longer service life.

Sharpening the chain requires compliance with two rules. First, you should control the sharpness of the cutting link corners, the height of the cut limiter and the compliance of these parameters with those initially set at the factory. And, secondly, clearly control the identity of the dimensions of all cutting links of one chain.

What is the threat of non-observance of these principles? So, if the angles on all cutting elements are the same, but wrong, the user runs the risk of getting either reduced performance or increased vibration and engine load. At different sharpening angles, due to uneven loading on the cutting elements, vibration will increase and the likelihood of chain breakage will increase. In any case, a premature failure will be provided to her.

That is why all the teeth of the chain must be sharpened evenly and under the same initially given angles, which, by the way, were established empirically. Then the chain will last as long and efficiently as possible. This is not a very difficult task, special devices for sharpening the chain allow, without hesitation and without resorting to precise measuring instruments, maintain the specified parameters.

Another important point is tracking slightest cracks, scuffs and bruises that can break the chain. If the chain breaks during operation, it slides off the bar and flies down at high speed, under the feet of the operator. To avoid accidents, a chain catcher is installed on all saws. And all the same, extra attention does not hurt.

Every user will be interested to know that any new chain sealed in a bag is just stamping, and by sharpening it, you can increase productivity by about a quarter. In addition, for new chains, the height of the cut limiter, and in fact the thickness of the resulting chips, is automatically "set" to the minimum value, i.e. for working conditions in "harsh" conditions (winter, frozen and hard wood, etc.). And if the sawing is carried out in the summer, and its object is a freshly cut pine, there is a reason to correct the limiter (using a special template) to speed up the work.

Saw chain maintenance tools

Files for sharpening saw chains are selected individually for each chain, focusing on its pitch

Files for sharpening saw chains are round and flat. The former are necessary directly for dressing the cutting corners of the upper and side edges. The help of the second is resorted to if it is necessary to correct the cut limiter.

Files are selected individually for each chain, focusing on its pitch. So, low-profile chains with the most common 3/8 ″ pitch are sharpened with a tool whose diameter does not exceed 4 mm. By the way, when sharpening a link, you should ensure that about a fifth of the file protrudes above the cutting edge.

Round files are often equipped with "holders", "files", "mandrels", "gauges" - thin metal plates engraved with straight lines, making it easier to track corners. The operator can only make sure that the tire is located strictly parallel to the desired strip. And a couple more mandatory requirements: the tool needs to be moved only in one direction, with the same number of movements for each tooth - this will ensure uniform grinding of the chain elements.

For every two or three sharpening of the tooth, the cut limiter is also sharpened, since the difference in height between it and the upper cutting edge must remain unchanged. To control this parameter, a special caliber is provided - a metal plate with a slot. It is "put on" on the cutting tooth and a flat file is used to grind the limiter "looking" out of the slot to the caliber level.

The cutting teeth and the kerf stop are marked with marks to show the extent to which they can be ground. As soon as the length of the upper edge of the tooth is equal to the risk, the chain has worn out and needs to be replaced. Files also fail over time and become greasy.

Manufacturers often combine round and flat files and gauges in so-called sharpening kits, matched to some a certain type chains. Sometimes, in addition to two files and a caliber, they contain some other auxiliary devices. For example, Oregon has diversified its kit with a tire groove cleaner - a kind of metal hook for removing sawdust from it.

Sets of files of various configurations, handles for them and calibers are found in the assortment of such manufacturers as Bahco, Husqvarna, Oregon, Stihl, etc.

produced not only as an addition to files. They can also be purchased separately. For example, in the Stihl assortment there is a very interesting device - a "pseudo-square" plate, which helps to determine the pitch of the saw chain and sprocket, the thickness of the drive links and the width of the groove of the guide bar. And the Oregon range has a “guide plate”. It, like the caliber, helps to track angles when manual sharpening... A piece of plastic with straight lines drawn at certain angles is attached with magnets to the saw bar. The rest, so to speak, is a matter of technology. Carlton has developed a special "device" (File-O-Plate) that allows you to control the correct observance of the sharpening angles and the height of the cut limiter. Made of hardened steel, the device is used to prevent backward tilting and the crescent edge of the cutter - when installed on a saw chain, it allows you to notice the slightest deviations from the norm and correct them with a file. Moreover, it, like any other guide plates, does not allow the file to deviate from the desired direction, ensuring the correct sharpening angle for all teeth. ... In order to sharpen the chain with a file, it is not at all necessary to remove it, but it is very good to fix it securely together with the tire. Heavy vice on case minor repairs You can't drag it into the forest with you, but special clamps - quite. Suitable are available from Stihl and Oregon. They are equipped with sharp legs that allow you to literally drive them into any suitable stump.

Manual chain sharpeners are attached directly to the guide bar.

Sharpening machines serve the same purpose as files, but they are usually resorted to when the chain is severely worn or when such work is large. In “specialized” workshops and service centers, such machines are not uncommon.

Hand-held machines are adapted for installation directly on the guide rail. In principle, their main duty is to ensure that the file moves in the right direction and to exclude even the possibility of deviation. In fact, they perform the same role as calibers, but their accuracy is much higher.

On electric sharpening machines, chains are usually sharpened, which have severe wear, and you cannot sharpen them with an ordinary file.

Electric machines require a stationary workplace, but they also serve the highest level... For instance, sharpening machine The Oregon 32653A will fit any chain from any manufacturer, as long as you have a properly sized grinding wheel. Using special scales, the disc and the sharpened chain are set at the desired angle. There are several modifications of this machine. So, the Oregon 106540 \u200b\u200bmodel is distinguished by a hydraulic system that provides an automatic clamping of the vice when the disc is lowered onto the chain tooth and in the process of sharpening each tooth. The machine 106360 requires a compressed air source of 6-8 bar, but its productivity is much higher.

Stihl also did not disappoint its followers by launching an electric sharpener for all Stihl chains. With additional equipment, the machine is suitable for servicing cutting systems of the most different devices - brushcutter, motorcycle shears, brush cutters.

Similar electric machines also available in the Alpina range.

SHARPENING RULES The line for the correction of the angle of sharpening of the upper edge, marked on the file holder, must be parallel to the chain The file should protrude above the top edge by 1/5 of its diameter Grind the kerf stop periodically to maintain the same depth of cut