It is a pity to see that the seedlings that we nurture at an early stage of development suddenly begin to wither, and the leaves turn yellow. All the reasons why a seedling withers, falls, or its leaves turn yellow can be combined into two main groups. These are, first of all, mistakes in the care of young seedlings and diseases or pests.
Why do seedling leaves wither
A sad sight. But there is more than one reason. No matter how sorry you are, you will have to pull at least one seedling out of the ground and carefully examine - both the top and the roots. And pay attention to the earth.
Any seedling loves moisture. Tomato seedlings are no exception. But if water stagnates in the container in which you grow the seedlings, the roots may suffocate. It is in this case that the reaction of the seedlings is the wilting of the leaves. What should be done first? Make drain holes in the bottom of the container or, if there are any, make them wider to excess water was able to drain into the pallet.
The second reason for wilting is too dry indoor air. Tomato seedlings love warmth, but if you put it next to a hot radiator, then dry air can cause the seedlings to be lethargic. In this case, tomato seedlings should be placed away from the heat source and they will come to life. Don't forget to spray it. Spraying moisture will increase air humidity and provide additional moisture to the leaves.
The third reason is drafts. Fresh air useful for seedlings. But the currents of cold air from the open window are destructive for young leaves - they wither. This trouble is also easily fixable - move the containers with tomato seedlings to another place or do not open the window for a while, do not make a draft.
Well, the fourth reason is elementary - drying out of the soil, insufficient watering. Just water the seedlings.
All of the above reasons are mistakes in caring for tomato seedlings, which are easy enough to eliminate. But the same mistakes can turn into more complex problems that are more difficult to deal with.
Excess moisture and stagnant water in seedling containers can lead to a very insidious disease - black leg. It is with the disease "black leg" seedlings fall.
How to define it? Easy. Examine the stem of the seedling. It begins to darken from below, and the stem becomes soft and may fall off. At the same time, the roots of the seedling look healthy, and the leaves wither. And then the roots and the whole plant die. At this stage, the plants can no longer be helped.
Black leg on tomato seedlings If you notice signs of the disease at the very beginning, when not all the seedlings are affected by the black leg, but only a smaller part of them, there is only one way out: transplant healthy plants into another sanitized dish filled with new soil. Diseased plants cannot be brought back to life.
But it is best if you prevent this disease in advance. It helps to avoid watering the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Another way. Requires the drug Metronidazole (available from the pharmacy). Dissolve 1 tablet in 1 liter of water. Spray seedlings with this solution, you can water the soil. Pre-applied remedy - 100% blackfoot protection.
Why do the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow
There is more than one reason for this. Experts identify as many as six factors contributing to the yellowing of leaves. If you pay attention to this in time, then there is a high probability of helping tomato seedlings and eliminating the causes.
- Yellowing of the lower leaves after transplanting seedlings into the ground to a permanent place. This usually happens when the seedlings are grown in small pots or cells. And after transplantation, the roots began to grow vigorously, taking food from the lower leaves. Try not to overgrow the root system. Start transplanting plants until the roots are completely braided with an earthy ball. Then root growth will be natural.
- Leaves acquire yellowthat gives off blue when top part plants or roots experience extreme temperature fluctuations. This is the reason for the disruption of measles nutrition. It has already been said above that it is advisable not to allow hypothermia of tomato seedlings.
- Only the lower leaves turn yellow when the root system is severely damaged during transplanting or loosening the soil. For a plant to recover, it needs time to grow new roots and leaves.
- Lack of moisture can also cause yellow leaves. As you know, the tomato plant has a long taproot that receives moisture and nourishment from the depths. And if you water your tomatoes only on top with a small amount of water, then this particular root root is missing it. The basic rule of watering tomatoes is rare, but abundant.
- When yellowing, you should pay attention to where, in what part of the plant the leaves turn yellow. With a lack of nitrogen on the leaves appear yellow spots... If there is not enough calcium, then the top of the tomato begins to turn yellow. If tomatoes receive little copper along with nutrition, then the leaves in the lower tier of the plant turn pale and turn yellow. Sulfur deficiency leads to the fact that the leaves not only turn yellow, but also thicken, become hard to the touch. There is little manganese and iron in the soil - the leaves also turn yellow at first, and then dry up. The edges of the leaves turn yellow - there is not enough magnesium. The top of the leaf turns yellow - not enough phosphorus. And the whole leaf turns yellow - on the contrary, there is a lot of phosphorus.
- The fungal disease Fusarium is another cause of yellow leaves. To determine whether a plant is suffering from this disease or a different cause, not only yellowness will help, but also the simultaneous lethargy of the leaves, as if the tomatoes have not been watered for a long time. Of course, prevention will help the best from fusarium. But, if it did happen, treat the seedlings 3-4 times with an interval of 1.5-2 weeks, for example, with Fitosporin.
Happy harvest!
Often, not only novice gardeners, but also professionals are already faced with the problem of yellowing of leaves in tomato seedlings. This could be a sign improper care for seedlings, and also indicate the development of fungal diseases. In any case, this cannot be ignored, and urgent measures must be taken to eliminate yellowness, otherwise it may threaten the death of all seedlings.
Causes of yellowing of tomato seedling leaves
Experts identify several main factors that negatively affect tomato seedlings and can cause the appearance yellow leaves... After analyzing, you can identify the problem and take steps to fix it.
The reasons for the yellowing of the leaves of tomato seedlings can be hidden in the following factors:
- the soil;
- environment;
- lack of nutrition;
- fungal diseases.
Each of the problems has its own characteristics, and in order to determine how to deal with the yellowness of seedlings, you need to familiarize yourself with what signs it is expressed.
The soil
Soil problems can be associated with improperly prepared substrate for sowing tomato seeds, in which most makes up peat. This is the reason for the slowdown in the growth of seedlings in the future and the appearance of a light yellow shade of foliage.
Or the substrate was prepared without the addition of sand or perlite, which ultimately leads to the fact that after each watering, the substrate in the pot collapses into a solid heavy ball, and this does not allow the roots to develop.
The second negative factor is regular stagnation of moisture in the soil. Tomatoes do not like the substrate to be constantly wet, this leads to the appearance of suffocation of the roots, as a result of which they do not receive required amount oxygen. The same reason causes the ubiquitous yellow tint on the leaves of tomato seedlings.
The third soil-related cause is inadequate watering plants, that leads to drying out of the root system... A sign of this is the yellowing of the lower leaves of the seedlings, but the top remains green. This is due to the fact that the plant redistributes moisture and gives it to the development of new promising leaves.
Sometimes the cause of yellowing of seedling leaves is negative influence external environment... This includes high or low temperature of the content... In this case, the initially lower layer of leaves begins to turn yellow in plants.
Another reason could be insufficient lighting seedlings. Tomatoes are light-loving plants, therefore, during the period of prolonged cloudy weather in the foliage, the process of photosynthesis slows down, which leads to yellowing of the leaves.
Low air humidity can also cause the entire plant to wilt or contribute to the appearance of yellowness.
Lack of nutrition
Micronutrient deficiencies can often be a provoking factor. Each of them manifests itself in its own way, which helps to identify shortages and take timely measures.
- Lack of potassium - the edges and tips of the foliage turn yellow, but it remains green color veins.
- Nitrogen deficiency - yellowness first of all appears at the tips, and then appears in the veins of the foliage.
- Lack of calcium - foliage takes on a withered appearance, curls and deforms. This is most often due to the fact that the soil is too acidic or alkaline.
- Zinc free - leaf plates become pale yellow, as if discolored, but at the same time the veins become pronounced and slightly bulge above the surface of the leaf.
- Iron deficiency - new leaves are significantly inferior in size to the previous ones. The shade of the upper foliage turns yellow with dark green bulging veins.
- Lack of magnesium - a characteristic feature is the appearance of a yellow edging along the contour of each vein on the leaves.
- Lack of phosphorus - characterized by the yellowness of the top of the seedlings, the leaf plates and the stem acquire a purple hue. An excess of a trace element is expressed by a yellow tint of the entire leaf plate.
- Lack of manganese - expressed by a light shade of foliage, which gradually moves from old leaves to young ones. The leaves turn completely yellow over time, wither and fall off.
- Deficiency of several micronutrients at the same time - the plant has a general depressed appearance. The foliage takes on a yellow-green mosaic color. The stem stretches out and becomes thin.
Fungal diseases
The most common seedling disease is, which is initially expressed by yellowing of the cotyledon leaves, and later leads to the death of the entire plant. The cause of development is fungal spores, which are located in the upper soil layer.
Another common problem might be fusarium leaf wilting. A characteristic feature of the disease is yellowing of the leaves, accompanied by lethargy against the background of normal watering.
Another problem of tomato seedlings can be brown spotthat infects seedlings starting from the lower layer of leaves. On top of the leaf plate, characteristic yellow spots appear, which on the reverse side have a grayish-brown tint, which indicates the development of a pathogenic mycelium. In the future, the affected leaves turn brown, dry out and fall off.
Other reasons
Besides common factors, there are a number of other reasons that can lead to yellowing of tomato seedlings. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with them in advance, so that when a problem occurs, you can confirm or deny their presence.
The most popular ones are:
- interlacing of the root system of seedlings in the absence of transplantation;
- small capacity, which does not allow the root system to develop at full strength;
- mechanical damage to the root when loosening the soil in the planting tank;
- incorrect picking;
- watering seedlings with cold water.
Video: reasons why the foliage of tomatoes turns yellow
What to do at the first sign of yellowing tomato seedlings
Important! When yellowness appears on tomato seedlings, it is urgent to take measures to preserve the future harvest, since any delay can lead to a weakening of the immunity of plants, stretching of stems or death.
If the problem is with wrong drawn up the composition of the substrate, then this can be eliminated by transplanting seedlings into new soil and separate containers. This combination of components of the earthen mixture is considered optimal:
- 1 part washed river sand;
- 2 parts of sod land;
- 1 part peat or leafy soil;
- 1 part perlite;
- 1 part coconut substrate
- 0.5 part wood ash.
If the reason is overflow and cold content, it is necessary to loosen the top layer of the soil, stop watering until the earthen coma dries up and adhere to the temperature of the content within 16-18 degrees during the day and 10-15 at night. With wilting and yellowing of foliage from lack of light it is necessary to provide seedlings additional lighting in the evening so that daylight hours are at least 10 hours.
When insufficient air humidity it is necessary to protect the seedlings from the hot air of the batteries with the help of polystyrene, to increase watering frequency as the topsoil dries out.
To eliminate yellowness on tomatoes associated with lack of micronutrients in the soil, it is necessary to feed the seedlings based on the missing component:
- lack of potassium helps to replenish plant nutrition potassium sulfate (2 g per 10 l of water) or potassium humate (50 ml per 10 l of water);
- nitrogen deficiency can be eliminated with urea (15-20 g per 10 l of water) or ammonium nitrate (20 g per 10 l of water), as well as by introducing organic matter: rotted mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20);
- lack of calcium can be eliminated by watering under the root of calcium nitrate at the rate of 25 g per bucket of water;
- lack of iron - the introduction of iron chelate in a ratio of 5 g per 5 l of water when watering plants or spraying foliage with iron sulfate 5 g per 10 l of water;
- magnesium deficiency can be replenished with magnesium sulfate in a proportion of 20 g per 10 liters of water at a temperature not lower than 20 degrees;
- lack of phosphorus can be eliminated with a superphosphate extract; for its preparation, it is necessary to dissolve 1 glass of the drug in 1 liter of boiling water and leave for 12 hours, after the time has elapsed, use it for watering by adding 9 liters of water;
- lack of manganese can be eliminated by spraying foliage with manganese sulfate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water;
- zinc deficiency can be corrected by spraying the leaves with zinc sulfate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water.
If the reason for the yellowing of tomato foliage is poor substrate, then experts recommend feeding with several fertilizers simultaneously for 10 liters of water:
- ammonium nitrate - 5 g;
- double superphosphate - 20 g;
- potassium chloride - 12 g.
Important!All root dressing tomato seedlings should be carried out on a damp substrate, which will prevent burns on the roots and improve the absorption of trace elements.
In case of development fungal diseases, which led to deformation, yellowing and fall of the foliage of tomato seedlings, it is necessary to process the seedlings with special preparations: Previkurand , according to the attached instructions.
By the way! More details about feeding tomato seedlings you can find out!
Video: why tomato leaves turn yellow, how to fertilize
Features of yellowing of seedling leaves
Sometimes a problem can arise after a certain procedure has been carried out, so it is necessary to clearly understand what this is connected with and what to do based on the situation.
Preventive actions
It is necessary not only to know what to do when yellowness appears on the leaves of tomato seedlings, but also what preventive measures to follow in order to prevent this.
When sowing seeds, it is necessary to carry out not only, but also to disinfect the soil with a working solution of potassium permanganate, which will reduce the risk of developing fungal diseases.
During the growing process, you must adhere to necessary conditions content, since any ignorance of the rules can lead to a decrease in the immunity of seedlings. Especially tomatoes react negatively to overflows in combination with a cool content.
Timely implementation will help eliminate the appearance of yellowness on the leaves due to a lack nutrients.
When growing tomato seedlings, the gardener faces certain difficulties, only in a timely manner taken measures will help eliminate problems and restore plant immunity. And adherence to prevention will help several times to reduce the likelihood of yellowness on plant leaves.
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The seedlings have not yet been placed in open ground, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, often grow poorly. Why do tomato seedlings turn yellow? In this article, we will try to find out the possible causes.
There may be several reasons why tomato seedlings turn yellow rapidly and grow poorly. The simplest is lack of nutrition and inappropriate soil acidity. Lighting and humidity also affect. If there is not enough soil in the pot, then the root system does not fully develop, from which the leaves may turn yellow.
Temperature drops are also contraindicated for tomatoes. The consequence may be not only yellowing, but also the death of the fruit. During the heat, the tomato can be susceptible to fungal diseases. The leaves first turn yellow, dry, and then may die altogether if appropriate measures are not taken in a timely manner.
Wrong soil
If tomato seedlings turn yellow and the leaves dry, check if there is enough soil in the container for the development of the root system. If everything is in order, it is possible that there are not enough nutrients in the soil. Seeds should only be planted in prepared soil. It should be slightly acidic and contain the required amount of trace elements. If the seedlings are weak, you can apply a 1% solution of universal fertilizer as a foliar dressing.
The lack of vitamins and minerals can be replenished by adding manure mixed with ash to the soil. Daily treatment will help the plant bounce back. Yellowness on the leaves can appear in case of a lack of oxygen in the soil. Loosening the soil regularly will reduce its density and allow oxygen to penetrate the soil. If the reason is bear, then you will have to resort to "heavy artillery" - a chemical agent.
Lighting and humidity
Tomatoes love good lighting, so choose the brightest place for seedlings. The plant is not averse to basking in warm sunlight, so the cups with seedlings can be taken out to the balcony. Tomatoes love dry air and well-moisturized soil. Even if the soil is on short term it dries up, the leaves immediately lose their elasticity. However, excessive dampness of the soil will not benefit tomatoes.
Watering should be moderate, after which the soil should dry out. It is enough to water once a week, for which use settled water from the mains or melt water... If the air is too dry, the leaves can also curl and turn yellow. Just place a bucket of water next to it to increase air humidity.
Fusarium
If the lighting and humidity standards are met, but the problems persist, then the plant may be infected with fungal diseases, the most dangerous of which is fusarium wilting. It appears due to soil fungi. Hot weather has a beneficial effect on the growth of wind-borne spores. The yellowed leaf loses its turgor, over time it begins to fall off. Why does a tomato start to grow poorly? The mycelium through the roots penetrates into the vascular system, blocks the access of nutrients and water, as a result of which the plant dies.
Other reasons
Why do the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow? Often, yellowness is caused by sunburn... Of course, sunlight is important for growth, but if directly hit, it can burn the leaf. This happens when the sprouts have been without sun for a long time (for example, it was rainy weather). What to do to protect seedlings from burns? It is enough just to cover the sprouts with newsprint, and treat the yellow leaves, for example, with Epin.
If the leaves turn yellow in tomato seedlings in a greenhouse, then the plant is most likely infected with root rot. This tomato fungus destroys young sprouts.
What to do
Tomato seedlings turn yellow and dry - what to do to stop this destructive process? First of all, transplant the seedling into fresh soil, water with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and put the cups in a lighted place - for example, on a windowsill. When carrying out a transplant, look at the roots, and remove if there are blackening processes.
But what if the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow for no apparent reason? It may be a lack of oxygen in the soil. In order to prevent such a development of the situation, you need to constantly loosen the ground, and carefully so as not to damage the sprout.
Before the greenhouse becomes the new home of tomatoes, the seedlings should be hardened. For this purpose, the cups with seedlings are taken outside for a short period, gradually increasing the residence time. Note that the seedlings must be brought into the room at night.
What to do if the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow? Control soil moisture, ventilate the room to prevent the growth of fungi and bacteria.
Prevention
In order not to look for the reason why the leaf of tomato seedlings turns yellow and subsequently falls off, it is better to prevent the disease. So that the harvest pleases and does not deliver extra hassle, during the sowing period for seedlings, you need to follow simple recommendations:
- observe the seeding time so that the seedlings appear on time;
- enrich the soil with minerals and vitamins;
- if the sprouts have stood, they need to be sprayed with a 1% solution of foliar dressing;
- so that the fungus does not attack the tomato, it is worth purchasing seeds only from trusted sellers;
Preventing yellowing of leaves will not only improve appearance tomatoes, but will also guarantee a healthy harvest. But even if it so happened that the tomato seedlings turn yellow, you now know what to do. An immediate response will help to quickly resolve the problem without much harm to future fetuses.
Video "Leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow"
From this video you will learn about the reason why tomato leaves turn yellow and how to deal with it.
Many hostesses ask the question why the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow? Everyone knows this is bad, but not everyone knows what to do about it. Let's figure it out! Tomato leaves can dry both at home on the windowsill and in the greenhouse. Most often, tomatoes almost do not bring problems to the gardener. They grow quickly, take root easily. However, sometimes even tomatoes can have problems.
Poor lighting and dampness
Most often, tomato seedlings begin to turn yellow due to the fact that there is little lighting around or damp soil in the greenhouse. This problem occurs in mid and northern latitudes, since there is simply no access to the sun and heat in required volumes... Many people don't know if such tomatoes can be saved? Yes! We will tell you how to do this in the next section.
Lack of micronutrients
If you are doing everything right, and the leaves still turn yellow, then look at the nature of the change in the color of the leaves. Maybe the plant just lacks nutrients. We will tell you in more detail how to deal with this a little later.
The tips of tomato seedlings dry out
There can be many different problems here too.
Take a look at other cultures initially. Do they have something similar? If so, the reason may be very dry air in the greenhouse or on the windowsill. Then you need to put buckets of water nearby. 
White or yellow spots
This is due to the fact that the soil is very salty. Read the next section to find out what to do about it.
Spots on seedlings
Sometimes this is due to burns. Seedlings should be under the sun, but if the plant is "unaccustomed" from it, then such a problem may appear. In bright sun, you can shade the plant with newspapers.
Dirty white spots mean that the seedlings are sick with septoria.
It is a disease that the earth carries. Develops in high humidity. The easiest thing to do is to discard diseased tomatoes and adjust the humidity in the greenhouse. 
Black leg seedlings
Root rot is a very serious sore. Diseased tomatoes will wither, fall, and their roots will rot. It is better to hedge against her. How to do it - you can read below.
Also, sometimes you can see that the leaves dry and turn yellow in one day. Then there is nothing to help. Here the reason is the death of tomato roots.
Disease prevention
Remember that the soil should not be wet. Water tomatoes with medium activity, let the soil dry out.
Keep them in a greenhouse or on a sunny balcony. In order to avoid infection from dampness, the infected sprouts need to be transplanted into new land... The roots must be freed from the soil, make sure that they are white (if the color is different, transplant it almost uselessly) and transplanted into a new, slightly damp soil. Pour 20-30 ml of potassium permanganate under each tomato and place them on the south side of the greenhouse. Also, make sure the soil is not very dense. It may happen that while you were replanting the tomato, you damaged the roots. Then you should put the tomato in a light shade. After the sprouts have taken root - put them back into the light!
If there is a lot of salt in the soil, then the roots will work in the reverse order - they will suck moisture from the tomato and give it to the ground. The soil can become salty due to too much fertilizer or hard water. What to do? Remove some soil and water the seedlings with soft water and do not fertilize for several weeks. 
In order to prevent blackening of the roots, when preparing for planting, ash should be added to the soil, and when leaving, damp and heat should be avoided.
If you saw a couple of black seedlings in the box, then you can try to save them by transplanting them into new soil, which contains calcined sand and ash. After transplanting, spray them with "Fundazol" and do not water until the soil is completely dry.
Video "Leaves of tomato seedlings dry"
The video discusses methods of dealing with tomato leaf diseases.
Fighting the disease
Here we describe how to recognize which trace element is missing, and how to solve the problem.
If you follow all the tips from this article, then you will be surprised how your plant grows by leaps and bounds! And you will not need to ask yourself the question - why does tomato seedling turn yellow?
Video "Leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow"
Why do the leaves of pepper seedlings turn yellow and fall off and what to do to prevent this trouble? This question arises for many amateur gardeners after the seedlings, on the cultivation of which a lot of time and effort has been spent, disappoints with their appearance.
Discoloration, curling and leaf fall are most often signs of an unsatisfactory plant condition.
There may be several reasons why pepper leaves turn yellow. It should be remembered that not only the inexperience of the gardener can be a determining factor weak seedlings... Inattention and forgetfulness can also play a role, climatic conditions affect the growth of peppers, and then nothing depends on the person.
Insufficient care
You need to monitor the condition of pepper seedlings carefully and daily. To notice in time that the lower leaves have changed color or have completely fallen off means that you have time to take a set of measures that will prevent other, more serious problems.
Small container
Tight cups, shortsightedly used for seedlings, will lead to a lack of nutrition in the pepper. The overgrowth and entanglement of the roots will lead to their death, the leaves will begin to experience a deficiency of moisture and trace elements. You can prevent this situation by choosing cups the right size... For peppers, containers with a diameter of 8 cm are suitable, and about 10-12 cm high.
Lack of watering
Having skipped watering several times, you can see drying out, lethargy and yellowness of the leaves. In this case, abundant watering will save. You can place a container with seedlings directly in a container of water, allowing the earth to soak completely.
After the cups with seedlings are placed in plastic bag, sprayed with a growth stimulant (Epin, for example - 1 ampoule per 5 liters of water). Leave the peppers in a bag for a couple of days, regularly airing them, then return them to their usual conditions.
Damage to the root system during transplant
Carelessly removing the sprout from the cup when transferring it to open ground, you can break several roots. The plant then gets sick, drops the leaves. In order to prevent such a nuisance from happening, when transplanting peppers into open ground, you need to take the earthen lump out of the glass as carefully as possible, you must first soak it well with thorough watering.
Try, planting, straighten root system so that the processes do not get tangled and do not press each other, the central root should go down, not bending up.
Sunburn
Seedlings that do well on a windowsill can burn foliage if exposed to open sunlight after transplanting. So plan ahead where the pepper will grow. Choose a place where the light is diffused, keep in mind that shaded areas of the earth will not work.
Waterlogging
You cannot be zealous with watering, stagnant water leads to decay of the root system. Such a disaster can be avoided by observing the soil carefully and watering only as it dries up.
In dense soil, the top layer remains wet even two to three days after watering, which means that the regime needs to be changed and more often "dry" watering is arranged - this is loosening the top layer of the earth. Otherwise, the root section of the trunk experiences oxygen starvation, and decay may begin. Use a light, loose soil to avoid this.
Water temperature
Shock from cold water when watering, it has a detrimental effect on the roots, which then develop poorly. The optimal water temperature is 22-25 ° C. It is not necessary to warm it up, you can fill containers in advance that are exposed to the sun for warming up.
Lack of oxygen
Mandatory airing should become the same routine as watering. Stagnation moist air can provoke the appearance of a "black leg" - fungal disease soil and plant death. Too dry and stagnant air is also a disaster for seedlings - if there is no possibility of active ventilation, the ozonizer can save the day by saturating the room with fresh oxygen.
Strong deepening
It is not recommended to drop seedlings above the cotyledonous leaves. If you want to get additional growth of the root system, then this is done not by deep planting the seedling trunk, but by picking the root. A simple procedure will ensure rapid growth, abundant flowering and fruiting at an earlier date.
Climatic conditions
Often, plants that were comfortable at home are capricious and begin to wither after transplanting them into the garden. And even the correct algorithm of actions does not always lead to the desired result.
It happens that the seedlings of peppers, yesterday vigorous and green, today dropped the cotyledon leaves and wilted:
- Sudden drop in temperature. No one is immune from such weather surprises. Greenhouse - perfect solution for areas with an unstable climate. At 12 ° C, the seedlings already freeze, shedding foliage and even dying later. Do not leave the window open if the air is too cold. Concrete windowsills can get very cold on cool nights, causing the soil in the seedling boxes to cool down. All this must be taken into account.
- The weather is too hot. Overheating of the air will also have a bad effect on the seedlings, which, taking root in a new place, experience severe stress. Try to comply temperature regimeplanting peppers in a greenhouse. Hot air that heats up in the sun above 24-26 ° C should be cooled by ventilation, otherwise the seedlings will simply burn out.
Soil quality
The condition of the soil is also a possible factor in the poor health of seedlings. It is important here to correctly understand what substances are needed, for this, assess the general condition of the entire plant.
The pallor of the leaves, weak elongated trunks - this primarily indicates a lack of nitrogen. Remember that the dropping of the lower leaves of the pepper, which is distinguished by elastic bright green leaves and a strong trunk, can be a natural consequence of intensive growth, such seedlings do not need feeding.
Nitrogen deficiency
With a solution of urea or ammonium nitrate, you can not only water regularly, but also spray the seedlings, trying to get to the wrong side of the leaves. It is better to prepare a weak preparation, usually it is made on the basis of a recipe: 10 g of fertilizer is taken for 5 liters of water. The situation cannot be corrected by feeding alone; regular watering twice a week and spraying of the leaves is necessary. To avoid chemical burns, do not use a strong compound.
Lack of potassium
Its symptoms are not only the yellowing of the leaves, but also their curling around the edges. To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to use muddy soil - it is rich in useful enzymes. Top dressing will also help boric fertilizers... In 10 liters of water, 20 g of fertilizer is dissolved, this composition is watered and sprayed with plants, preferably before flowering.
Lack of manganese, iron, boron and zinc
Signs of iron deficiency - light yellowness of the leaf plate with green veins and falling off top leaves... Watering with iron chelate will eliminate starvation of seedlings. You can prepare the solution yourself. To do this, dilute in 1 liter of water inkstone - 10 g, then 20 g is injected ascorbic acid... Spraying and watering with the composition will be beneficial if the treatment is carried out at least two times, the interval is two weeks. You need to do this before flowering.
Pest infestation
Spider mite Spider mites and aphids are easily detected by close inspection of the plant. The presence of arachnoid plexus on the stem and leaves, white dots indicate tick infestation.
It is necessary to deal with it by spraying the plant and watering the earth with a special solution. Phytoverm (10 grams per 12 liters of water), bitoxibacillin (100 grams per 10-12 liters of water), colloidal sulfur (80 grams per 12 liters of water) are used. Seedlings are sprayed with the soil every two weeks.
Aphids settle on the back of the leaves, where they can be found during inspection. It can be defeated using folk methods and solutions of chemicals. Peppers should be sprayed with preparations from herbs and ash every day, in the morning.
Recipes:
- To prepare the broth, 200 grams of dry raw materials are taken per 5 liters of water. They use tobacco, yarrow, dandelion chamomile, horse sorrel, saffron.
- Infusion of pine or larch needles. A quarter of a kilogram of needles is added to 1 liter of water. A concentrated preparation is obtained after a week of infusion in a dark place. It is diluted in a liter of water, adding 30-50 gr. Can be used for infusion spicy pepper, garlic, citrus peel (100 grams per liter of water). For watering, 25 g of the composition is added to a bucket of water.
- Dissolve a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. A day later, add a spoonful of liquid laundry soap there.
- Karbofos, Keltan is used to prepare a solution (1 spoon per bucket of water). One application of chemicals should be sufficient.
High soil acidity
This is corrected by introducing ash and humus into the ground. It is enough to add 1 cup of wood ash per square meter soil. Slaked lime, dolomite flour, chalk also helps in the fight against high soil acidity. They are brought in in the amount of 100-200 grams per square meter during digging.
Failure to comply with crop rotation
An annual change of landing site must occur. Otherwise, there will be no necessary microelements in the soil that are constantly drawn by the same plant species.
Observing the simple rules of care and transplantation, arranging watering and airing in time, protecting the peppers from the cold and direct sun, you can get a crop that will delight you.
Temper the seedlings, gradually lowering the temperature in the room to 17-18 ° C. This will help grow peppers with strong stems and strong roots. Avoid falling of the leaves of pepper seedlings both in the house and in the greenhouse and open ground not that difficult. Regular grooming and careful check-ups can help prevent this.