Agricultural ecology: How to plant raspberries: correct fit, care, fertilization of seedlings. "Gardener and Gardener" will tell you everything you need to know about planting raspberries of any kind and variety. You will know not only when to plant your favorite berry, but also where the young plants will be
Raspberry berry attracts children and adults due to its unique taste and healing properties. But getting a rich harvest is impossible without regular and careful plant care. Moreover, the prerequisites for abundant fruiting are laid even at the stage of planting and arranging the raspberry tree.
Choosing the optimal time for planting raspberries
If you plan to breed raspberries on your site, then you should think about when it is best to plant them. It is difficult to name the terms unequivocally, but when preparing for planting, several factors should be taken into account.
1. Climatic features of the region. For example, in the southern regions, where heat comes quickly in spring and little rainfall, it is recommended to plant raspberries in the fall, because this season is warm and long enough here, which allows young plants to successfully root in a new place. In the northern regions, on the contrary, it is more effective spring planting, since the ground freezes early in the fall, as a result of which the freezing of plants is possible.
2. The specifics of the planting material. In particular, the degree of drought and frost resistance of a particular variety and the beginning of active vegetation of the plant. For example, black raspberries are best planted in spring because they are less resistant to frost, but have strong roots, which allows them to better tolerate drought. In turn, the growing season of yellow raspberries begins early, so it should be planted in the fall.
In addition, raspberries, planting and caring for which requires individual approach taking into account the characteristics of the variety and the characteristics of the soil, it traditionally propagates in several ways, which also affects the choice of planting dates.
In spring, herbaceous green offspring are planted, reaching 20 cm, with already developed white roots.
For summer planting, plants grown in containers are suitable, which during the season will take root and will be ready for wintering.
Annual root shoots are planted in autumn. The fact that the offspring is ripe and ready for transplantation is evidenced by replacement buds appearing on the root collar and the presence of fibrous white roots.
Where is the best place to plant raspberries?
It is equally important to choose the right site for planting raspberries. The arrangement of a raspberry tree in an area not blown by cold winds and open to sunlight is considered optimal. The most favorable for raspberries are slightly acidic loamy soils, moisture-consuming, but at the same time sufficiently drained. Good yields can also be achieved on sandy soils if they are enriched with humus annually.
The location of the raspberry tree should be selected, taking into account which plants will be adjacent to it. So, planting raspberries next to some fruit trees, potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries and strawberries is not recommended, since they are prone to the same diseases and suffer from common pests... Raspberries get along poorly with currants and sea buckthorn, because their roots lie at the same depth and can drown each other. You should also pay attention to the proximity of raspberries of different varieties. For example, in order to protect black raspberries from green mosaics, they must be planted at a distance of at least 100 m from bushes of red varieties, they are often carriers of this disease in a latent form.
Soil preparation
If the issue with the location has already been resolved, then it is worth starting to prepare the site for planting raspberries. In the fall, the soil is prepared a month and a half before planting the seedlings. And if you plan to plant raspberries in the spring, then the processing is done in the fall.
First of all, you need to clear the area of weeds. Further, the ground is plowed up or dug up at least 30 cm deep. For digging, fertilizer is usually applied: rotted manure (10-30 kg), potassium sulfate(40-50 g) and superphosphates (60-80 g) based on square meter... It is better to enrich peaty soils with sand by adding 4 buckets per 1 sq. M.
Raspberry planting methods
In parallel with the preparation of the site, you should decide how to plant raspberries, namely, choose a specific planting method.
The most common methods are considered to be bush and private. In the first case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5-1.7 m. Moreover, by the 4th year of cultivation, lush bushes with 10 developed shoots are obtained. Weak and damaged shoots are cut out.
With the ordinary method, shoots are planted in separate holes or trenches. Pits are dug up to a depth of 40 cm and up to 50 cm in diameter, so that the roots of the seedlings are fully placed in them. The technology of planting raspberries in the pit method foresees the addition of fertilizer directly to the hole, if it was not applied during the digging of the site. The nutrient mixture for one pit includes humus or compost (3-5 kg), potassium salt (20-25 g) and superphosphates (30-35 g).
Despite the high labor intensity, the most popular and effective method is planting raspberries in trenches, which are prepared 2-3 weeks before planting. They dig them 50-55 cm wide and 40-50 cm deep. Then rotted manure is placed on the bottom in a layer of 10 cm, superphosphate is evenly distributed over it and sprinkled with vermicompost.
If in the selected area the topsoil is sufficiently fertile, then it is also laid on the bottom. However, a moderate amount of wood ash can be added.
On small areas planting raspberries in containers is practiced. To do this, use plastic or metal dishes with a depth and diameter of about 50 cm. A container without a bottom is buried in the ground and filled with fertile soil and fertilizers. The root system of shrubs planted in this way will not grow and drown out other plants.
Raspberry planting technology
At this stage it becomes topical issue"How to plant raspberries correctly?" It should be noted that the planting technology will differ somewhat depending on the characteristics of the planting material and the chosen planting method.
How planting material usually use annual shoots, green offshoots (for example, for reproduction of remontant raspberries), as well as root cuttings. Speaking about how to plant raspberries, it does not hurt to remind you that for planting it is better to choose seedlings with medium or thin shoots and a well-developed fibrous root system.
Planting shoots
The planting scheme with the bush technique foresees the placement of plants so that in the row between the individual bushes there is about 1.2 m, and the row spacing in this case is made 1.5-1.8 m wide.With trench technology, the seedlings are placed in the rows at a distance of 30 -50 cm, stripes with a width of one and a half to two meters are left between the rows. Treelike raspberries are planted with row spacing of at least 2.5 meters so that the lower buds have enough light.
Directly during planting, the seedling is placed in the center of the hole or trench and, having spread the roots well, sprinkle it with earth, shaking it slightly so that the lumps of soil densely occupy the entire space around the roots. The planting depth is determined so that the replacement bud, located at the base of the stem, is hidden 2-3 cm in the ground. The soil around the seedlings is compacted. Each bush is watered using 5-6 liters of water. After planting, the seedlings are cut, leaving 15-20 cm for autumn planting and 30-40 cm for spring planting.
Planting cuttings
Also, raspberries are planted by cuttings. For this, suitable root cuttings with a diameter of 3-5 mm are harvested in the fall. They are cut into 10-15 cm pieces. In winter, the cuttings are stored in wet sand in the basement. In early spring, in the prepared and fertilized area, grooves are made 5 cm deep and cuttings are laid in them. The grooves are covered with earth and watered. By autumn, plants with a developed root system and 2-3 shoots appear. Planting cuttings in greenhouses with soil is considered more effective.
Planting seeds
Sometimes gardeners practice planting raspberries from seeds. Planting material is bought or harvested with one's own hands. For this they take ripe berries and squeeze them through cheesecloth. The resulting mass can be smeared on a sheet of paper and dried a little. The seeds are mixed with sand and sown in a cold greenhouse or boxes. The landing site should be humid and shaded. When 3-4 leaves appear on the sprouts, they can be dived by placing them in small pots or again in a cold greenhouse. So, by the fall, you can get seedlings ready for planting in the ground. It should be borne in mind that the seeds germinate unevenly, and the resulting plants do not always retain the properties of the maternal ones.
In order for raspberries to grow and bear fruit well, planting and caring for them must be regular. It should be noted that for different types, be it red or fragrant raspberries, the basic rules of planting and care are practically the same. The main thing is to periodically feed the plant after planting throughout the season, fight pests and weeds, timely prune and irrigate, the number of which can be reduced by mulching the soil in the raspberry-bush with peat, manure or chopped straw. published by
Greetings, dear gardeners! We all love raspberries and want to grow enough of this wonderful berry. Today we have a wide variety of raspberries available: yellow and black, early and late, remontant and standard. The story begins with a landing. When to plant raspberries and how to do this important job correctly? Let's talk about this today.
Competent laying of a raspberry plantation creates the basis for an excellent harvest for many years to come.
Standard Raspberry Saplings - Siblings
The gardener does not need a seed breeding method for raspberries, this is the lot of breeders. It is also difficult to cut this berry crop - special foggy installations and special technologies are needed.
But you can grow raspberries from root cuttings: for this they take rhizomes from young bushes,
cut into pieces 10 cm long and buried in loose soil not too deep (in spring or autumn); in season dormant buds awaken - and shoots grow back.
The division of the bushes is not practiced, it is of very little use. It is categorically not recommended to use adult bushes for planting: they are difficult to accept and grow poorly in the future.
A normal sapling of red and yellow raspberries is a young plant - a root shoot (offspring) that has grown slightly away from the main bush.
In black raspberries (such as the Cumberland variety) and some varieties of hybrid raspberries, shoots do not form. They grow long lashes, touch the ground and grow into it with apical buds; then roots appear there, a young shoot emerges. This is how black raspberry seedlings are formed - "stem offspring".
Choosing the time
In what month are raspberry offspring planted? There are several reasonable options:
- in the fall - after leaf fall;
- in spring - as soon as the snow melts;
- young shoots ("nettles") - at the end of spring;
- the whole season - seedlings with a closed root system.
The latter is not the best for raspberries. In this berry culture, planting material in pots is frail and develops slowly at first. Open-rooted seedlings are generally more vigorous.
Specific dates
You should not plant raspberries with an open root system, dug out in August, and even early autumn - not very suitable time... During this period, the shoots are not yet fully ripe - neither the trunks, nor the root collar; the buds of renewal have not yet begun to form. It is best to wait for natural leaf fall, or at least get closer to this time.
In the Moscow region, in Central Russia, in Altai, in the south of the Urals and Siberia, an excellent time for planting raspberries is the end of September and October. There is no need to be afraid that it is too late: it is the dormant or falling asleep plants that successfully tolerate the transplant. If, nevertheless, leafy seedlings are taken, then all foliage must be removed from them as soon as possible so that it does not evaporate moisture.
Planting raspberries in autumn (as well as gooseberries and currants) during the fall or immediately after it is the most correct option.
It is more appropriate to postpone the event to spring only in a cold swampy lowland (although it is generally difficult to grow this berry in such places).
If planting is still done in the spring, then the earlier, the better (again, while the plants have not yet started to grow). Some varieties of large-fruited raspberries (such as the standard Tarusa) and ezemalins take root more successfully in the spring, especially in cold regions.
Short cut
Highly important point – correct pruning planting material for autumn or spring planting.
The main part of the seedling is the roots and root collar with buds. The trunk is not needed, it is cut as short as possible, leaving a 5-10 cm stump.
It is not recommended to keep most of the stem. The buds will try to flower and bear fruit, which will weaken the young plants. You should not strive to get a harvest in the first year, it is better to allow the bushes to take root reliably and grow good renewal shoots. They will bear fruit next season.
But overgrown annual shoots can bloom, but in the first year the crop rarely ripens. Any varieties reveal their potential only in the third year.
Inspection
If there are gallic swellings and spots from diseases on the stem, then this is not too scary. The trunk is cut shorter, the infected cuttings are burned. But if there are cones or wormholes in the root collar, then this is an unusable planting material. You can only try to take root cuttings from it.
If the bumps are visible on the roots themselves, then it could be a root cancer. If the lesion is strong, then the plant is burned entirely, it cannot be planted. With a small number of outgrowths, the seedling is saved by cutting off the infected pieces of the rhizome.
Reproduction "nettles"
This method is especially good for breeding your own raspberries.
Approximately in the month of May (in the Middle Lane), young shoots begin to break through next to the raspberry bushes. They call it "nettles".
For transplant, choose a cloudy (even rainy), cool day. Young shoots 5-10 cm high are dug with a piece of rhizome, chopping off with a shovel or pruning the rhizome with shears, which extends from the mother bush.
The plant is immediately planted, well watered (you can use Kornevin's solution), mulch. In the early days they shade from scorching sun... If by the fall the seedlings grow well and get stronger, then on next year they will bear fruit.
Accommodation
- Microclimate
Raspberry plants are very fond of moderately moist soil, but do not tolerate stagnant water and especially prolonged flooding. In swampy lowlands, young shoots ripen poorly and winter hard. For such places, the most unpretentious traditional varieties and remontant raspberries with a one-year development cycle are selected.
Dry hills and high beds for this berry culture, they are also not suitable, as are slopes with a rapid outflow of water. Roots are more comfortable in trenches just below ground level, with excellent mulching.
- Lighting
Where is it better to place this berry culture - is it only in the sun, or is it also possible in the shade? Of course she needs a lot of light. The bushes should be illuminated by the sun, ideally from top to bottom. The most sunny places the remontant variety and ezhemaline are taken away, from the traditional varieties - early and late maturing, as well as capricious super-large-fruited.
Several bushes can be placed in the shade of a house or other building (but not under trees). We are talking about regular raspberries, not remontant. Fruiting in partial shade will be later and longer. But here diseases and pests attack more strongly, and young stems ripen worse and do not always hibernate successfully. For a shaded place, you will have to select the most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties.
Landing patterns
A good option is placement in one row, from south to north.
If several rows are adjacent, then optimal distance between them is 2.5-3 meters (for low standard and low remontant varieties, 1.5-2 meters are allowed). This will ensure normal ventilation.
How far are the landing holes in the same row? Classic version- 70 cm. For remontant varieties, they recommend 90-100 cm, for spreading black raspberries and ezhemalins - even more.
Neighborhood and crop rotation
Can you plant different varieties of raspberries next to each other? This is perfectly acceptable if they have similar characteristics and require the same maintenance. There is no change in berries from cross-pollination.
It is very undesirable to plant young raspberries immediately after raspberries, on an old plantation - due to soil fatigue and accumulated infections. This berry should not be placed after garden strawberry, bulbous plants, roses, representatives (tomatoes, petunia flowers, potatoes, etc.) - they have common diseases.
What can you plant next to raspberries? Any cultivated plants other than those already mentioned. In addition, with strawberries, raspberries have a common pest - the weevil. And the neighborhood of raspberries and apple trees is also harmful. Such dangerous pest of raspberry buds and berries, like a raspberry beetle, when it leaves wintering, it first feeds on the nectar of apple flowers, and then flies to raspberries.
Soil preparation
If the soils are highly acidic, then they are preliminarily deoxidized. With a slight acidity, raspberries get along calmly. But the need for organic raspberries is great. In every seat be sure to bring 1-2 buckets of mature humus - dung or grass.
A good handful is also added. A handful of granular mineral fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus will not hurt. It is good to populate raspberries a year after plowing siderates.
Disembarkation procedure
Bare raspberry roots should not be exposed to the sun and wind. If the root system is treated with a clay mash, then this clay must be washed off before planting. Seedlings are placed in holes one by one or two pieces.
How deep should they be planted? The root collar is buried just a little bit under the ground, a couple of centimeters, just to cover the buds. Landings are well watered and required.
Video about choosing a seedling and planting raspberries
Goodbye, Dear friends! Happy landing!
With all respect, Andrew
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Before planting raspberries, you need to decide on the optimal timing for this process. There are many opinions on when to do this. Most gardeners prefer it, as they have many advantages. Firstly, the plant does not dry out and does not require constant abundant watering, as in summer. Even normal precipitation will be sufficient to support all the vital functions of the seedling.
Now a little about how to plant raspberries in the fall optimal time... To define it. It is necessary to look at the stem itself; several replacement buds should form on it. At this time, you can safely dig up the process, transfer it to new house... The early ones form several replacement buds already in the second decade of September, but late varieties can sleep until the middle or even the end of October. It is impossible to dig it up too early, it is better to be a little late with this process, since the new bush will not be able to take root due to the lack of a sufficient number of roots in the system. And, of course, you can propagate a "dummy" that will not bring the required amount berries. Therefore, we are waiting, watching the formation of the kidneys.
Before planting raspberries, be sure to check the weather forecast so that the next 3 weeks are not sub-zero temperature even at night. The plant should root properly, form several lateral roots, only in this case it will be able to wait out the winter under the cover of snow without any problems. If you do not have time to do everything in the fall, it is better to "preserve" the seedlings in the basement before the onset of spring, only then place them in the soil. To do this, you need to lower them in plastic bottle with a cut throat, fill with water, make high-quality drainage. At low temperatures(+ 5-7 degrees) and periodic watering, they can easily stand for 3-5 months, after which it will be necessary to transfer them to the prepared pits.
In addition to autumn planting practice spring, summer landing. In the first case, the operation is carried out around the beginning of April. It is necessary to shorten the stems to a height of 20-25 centimeters, even if they have already grown a little and much higher. It is necessary to choose only with a good root system so that white shoots are present- the first sign that the plant is "alive". You can do this in the summer, around the beginning of July, when one-year-old seedlings are transferred, they are separated from the mother bush. Disadvantage - you need anxious care, constant watering, installing a darkening fabric so that the scion does not burn out, and much more. That is why summer, spring operations are less popular with experienced gardeners and, in general, give preference to autumn care.
In the fall, you do not need to pick off the leaves - they will fall off themselves after transplanting, but in the spring you need to leave 2-3 pairs, no more, since weak roots will not be able to give the right amount moisture to the stem to feed the leaves. As a result, there is a high probability of drying out.
Choosing the best place for a new plantation
Before planting raspberries in the fall, you need to choose the right place for it. There are several criteria for making the right choice.
The first is a place protected from the wind, this requirement is mandatory if you want to get good harvests every year. Bushes love warmth, calmness, especially in autumn, when the temperature drops to 5-7 degrees. Even with such a relative warmth, your plantation can freeze out, because a strong wind significantly increases the heat exchange of the bark, and the movement of sap at this time is even greater. Thus, the most dangerous time for a raspberry tree is the beginning of frost, when it is too early to wrap up the bushes, it is too early to figure out, and the danger of frostbite is high.
The second important point is a bright place. If you read somewhere that raspberries grow better in the shade, this is only partially true. It grows, perhaps a little better, but very poorly. She is like watermelons - it needs a lot of light, moderate humidity, otherwise wait good fruiting just unrealistic. It cannot be the bottom tier in the front garden, the trees above it will significantly reduce the amount of berries that you could get. That is why it is necessary to place the raspberry tree in an open area, which will be illuminated throughout sunny day... It is better to water a few extra times, but collect a large number of berries in summer.
A well-fertilized site is the key to success. The "pit" planting method gradually faded into the background, the trench became the leader. It allows you to optimize watering in the best way, fertilization immediately a large number bushes. It is necessary to pre-prepare the place and dig grooves 40 cm wide and up to 40 centimeters deep. Then add organic fertilizers and let it stand for several months. That is, it must be done somewhere in August or even earlier. Ash is an indispensable stage in the preparation of the site - it will improve the taste of the berries, make them juicy and sweet.
It is advisable to position the trenches according to the north-south compass arrow. This is quite important, since they will catch more light, as a result, they will develop faster and bear more fruit. The distance between the rows is immediately laid in 90 centimeters, it is not necessary to allow the shoots to win a free space from you - there will be almost no sense from it, but there are more than enough inconveniences.
We have already figured out how to plant raspberries correctly, now let's move on to the soil. Bushes do not grow on peat bogs, pure black soil, clay. Even if they grow, it is short-lived or unproductive. Most the best option- sandy and sandy loam soils. The only drawback is the lack of fertilizers, so you have to constantly feed the plants with organic fertilizers and potassium nitrate for fruits. There must be drainage in the soil, otherwise the roots will feel bad. If you are planting in a trench, then you need to fill up at least 10 centimeters of crushed stone, 10 centimeters of sand, and only then move on to fertile soil and sandy loam soils.
Fertilization and follow-up care
Before planting raspberries correctly, you need to take care of fertilizers. They should be applied not only annually, but also immediately after the root system gets to a new place - it needs to grow well and provide the leaves with all the necessary components. First of all, we apply nitrogen fertilizers. 100 grams per 1 square meter will be enough. Saltpeter or diluted 5% chicken droppings will do. These are the largest sources of nitrogen, but remember that nitrogen can burn the roots, therefore, direct contact of these substances with the plant stem should not be allowed... If the soil is sandy, then the dose of nitrogen fertilizers should be divided into 2 parts. Add 1 immediately after transplantation, another in 2-3 weeks.
Foliar top dressing is not necessary. They only stimulate the growth of vegetative mass, which the root system will not have time to provide with all the necessary substances. It is recommended to apply leaf fertilizers only after 6-7 pairs of leaves are formed, and the dose must be reduced by 50% so that there is no excess nitrogen and the leaf plates are not burnt.
How to plant raspberries in the fall without losses - storing outsider seedlings
It often happens that there is much more planting material than was necessary or the planting dates have unexpectedly passed. It is at such moments that the "canning of seedlings" for the winter becomes relevant. If you don’t know how to properly bottle them or how to plant raspberries in the spring from such a "kolobok" - it doesn’t matter, now we’ll figure it out.
The first step is to check the roots of the plant, you need to be present light color... Next, we take a few kilograms of sawdust and fill it with water - this will be the right substrate for conservation. We put all this in a plastic bag (or in a two-liter plastic bottle if there is only 1 seedling) and put it in the basement right up until the time when the temperature in spring is at least +5 degrees. It is necessary to store the planting material at a relatively cool temperature, no more than +7 degrees, so that the exchange of juice in the plant is minimal. This will make it possible for him to make an artificial winter, growth with the onset of warmth will significantly improve.
There is no need to fertilize the substrate, the main task is to limit it from all useful substances, heat, so that the raspberries begin to grow only in early April or even later, and all this time "slept". Now we figured out how to store, how to plant raspberries correctly in the fall, so as not to lose anything. Next, you only need to periodically water the front garden, pick berries on time - big harvest guaranteed to you!
Raspberry, bright and aromatic, attracts attention with its high taste and healing properties... It is useful for adults and children, its systematic use enriches the body with vitamins and microelements, even a couple of spoons of raspberry jam a day during the winter can prevent the occurrence of colds or infection with viral infections. Raspberries in the garden are found on almost everyone suburban area, attractive to gardeners for its unpretentiousness, the ability to produce crops in the year of planting, bear fruit until late autumn.
Planting raspberries - how to choose the right site
To determine the best place for planting raspberries, you can observe where it grows in wildlife... These are forest glades and woodlands, edges, i.e. well lit places, in winter period snow drifts accumulate on them, providing excellent wintering for plants. Similar conditions should be created for the raspberries that will be planted in the garden.
The best option would be to plant the bushes compactly in the corner of the garden, on a site protected from strong winds, with good enough sunlight. When choosing a place, you should also focus on an area with a deep bed (more than 1.5 m) of groundwater - raspberries will not tolerate waterlogged soil.
It will not be possible to get a good result even if the area of the site is swampy or saline. Poor fruiting will occur on heavy clay soils... You can determine in advance the suitability of a site for planting raspberries by how any fruit trees, their normal development is a guarantee that the raspberry bushes will also be comfortable.
It is not recommended to break raspberries on the southern slopes of hills - such places warm up well during thaws in winter, long thaws and heating of the roots contribute to a decrease in the winter hardiness of the plant, with the return of frosts, especially if the temperature drops below -20 C, heated plants can suffer greatly - get frostbite more parts of shoots.
Novice gardeners should take into account that with frequent watering with a small amount of water, the plants will form surface roots, with rare and abundant watering, a part of the root system that lies in the deep layers of the soil will form more actively.
To prepare a site for planting you will need:
- remove all weeds from it along with rhizomes,
- apply organic and mineral fertilizers,
- dig up the entire site,
- to destroy the larvae of the beetle found in the ground.
Experienced gardeners advise quality organic fertilizers apply activated compost.
The hole in which the bush will be planted should have a diameter of about 30 cm and a depth of 30-35 cm. Before planting, it is filled with a mixture of humus, manure, rotten straw and foliage by about half. If several bushes are unlikely to be planted, then you can not dig individual holes, but a trench and apply fertilizers into it. This method of planting is even more effective - raspberry roots grow quickly and can take up a fairly large space - within a radius of about 2 m around the bush, it's not bad if most of it will be fertilized.
If the soils are sandy and very poor, then it is recommended to dig a ditch half a meter wide and the same depth, fill it with a mixture of soil with nutrients: humus, the remnants of last year's foliage, twigs, it will be able to give more nutritious food to plants through the developing in its thickness root system... To retain moisture, the bottom of the ditch can be covered with a 2-3 cm layer of red clay.
With increased acidity, it is possible to add up to 200 g of fluffy lime per 1 sq. M of raspberry-tree area to the soil during digging. Wood ash added to the soil will also be useful.
It is best to plant raspberries in the fall, in late September - early October. In this case, it will have time to take root well, and at the beginning of spring it will be ready for full development and active growth. If the planting of raspberries is planned for the spring, then this should be done early, when the condition of the thawed soil allows.
The recommended row spacing, regardless of whether the bushes will be planted singly or in a common trench, should be about one and a half meters, the distance between the bushes should be about 0.5-0.7 m.It is recommended to deepen the seedling into the ground about 5-7 cm deeper than it grew in the previous place. It is not difficult to determine this point, the part of the stem located above the surface of the soil has a different color and the border is seen quite clearly.
Before planting, the roots of each seedling are straightened, carefully placed in a moistened hole and covered with soil, trampled. Then comes the watering time, it is recommended to pour at least 10 liters of water under each bush. After the water is absorbed, the ground should be covered with a layer of mulch, which can be used as fallen needles, straw, peat or humus.
Mulch will be effective if its layer will have a thickness of about 6-8 cm. It is advisable to lay a layer of mulch of 10 cm on the aisles - this will allow:
- maintain the looseness of the soil throughout this season,
- prevent active evaporation of moisture,
- inhibit seedlings and weed growth.
The planted bushes should be pruned by 25-30 cm. It is impossible to cut off the shoots completely - in their lower part, the substances accumulated by the plant are stored that contribute to the growth of the root system, in addition, low pruning can slow down the appearance of replacement shoots, which ultimately will lead to the death of the plant.
When planting raspberries in autumn, the plants are spud, while the stem is covered by at least 10 cm.This simple procedure will help preserve all the lower buds.
When and how to trim raspberries
Raspberry fruiting begins on two-year-old shoots: shoots grow actively in the first year, flower buds are laid in autumn. At the end of fruiting, they begin to dry out. Drying shoots should be removed not seasonally, but as soon as they appear. Cleaning the bushes in summer will allow for more active growth of young shoots, which are called replacement shoots.
With the onset of spring, one-year-old shoots will need to be cut by 15-20 cm. At the same time, they are guided by the location of the first large bud on top. Shortening shoots causes more active branching and promotes the formation of more large berries... Second positive point- shortening the branches makes them more stable and they will not bend to the ground under the weight of the pouring fruits.
Overwintered, but damaged and weak shoots are subject to complete removal in the spring. In the fall, all fruiting shoots are subject to complete removal.
What to consider when choosing a method of growing raspberries
Today, there are four methods of growing raspberries:
- belt, when the width of the plantings reaches 30-40 cm,
- nesting, with placement in rows of single bushes,
- on trellises,
- without the use of a garter of shoots.
Ribbon option cultivation involves the formation of a wide strip of shoots, form it due to root suckers of mother bushes. Depending on the branching activity of the shoots and the height, their number is regulated: it is desirable that the remaining number of shoots make it possible to get the maximum number of fruits, while allowing each branch to receive enough sunlight and heat.
Since modern raspberry varieties have significant differences in the height of fruit branches, their number and branching, the approach to the formation of ribbons from shoots should be taken into account the characteristics of each of the varieties.
Nesting method usually used if the beds are very small. A separate peg is used to tie each bush. The recommended distance between the bushes is one and a half meters, but it can increase depending on the length of the shoots that the planted variety gives. It is not difficult to take care of such plantings, problems can arise if heavy rains occur during the fruiting period - the bushes are poorly ventilated and the berries inside them can be affected by mold.
When growing raspberries on trellis with a narrow ribbon seedlings are planted in a row at a given distance, and a certain distance between rows is also maintained. The method will require the installation of supports along each row and the manufacture of a trellis, which is usually a well-stretched metal wire.
Care consists of:
- in an even distribution of replacement shoots along the wire,
- removal of fruiting branches at the level of the soil surface - it will no longer be possible to get berries from them, but thicken the bush and take part of it nutrients they will,
- removing excess root overgrowth with a sharp shovel or secateurs - a large amount of it can significantly reduce the yield.
Growing raspberries turns out to be the least effective in practice. without garter:
- shoots form dense thickets,
- branches with the harvest fall on the ground, thereby causing damage to the berries,
- strong shading reduces the very possibility of setting buds on the shoots.
If, when growing the same large-fruited variety on trellises, you can get about 200 kg of berries, then when tying to stakes, the yield will decrease by about 3 times, and when grown without a garter - 6 times.
Growing raspberries - secrets from experienced gardeners to help you get high yields
Gardeners who have recently started growing raspberries often complain about failures:
- berries damage insects,
- bushes grow poorly, or vice versa,
- shoots grow extremely vigorously, but do not bear fruit.
In this case, the variety is usually blamed, attempts are made to replace the plants with new ones. But before taking drastic measures, the reason should be analyzed, perhaps the point is not at all in the variety, but in improper care?
caring for raspberries - timing of fertilizing and watering
To ensure the active development and fruiting of the raspberry bush, it should be supplied with nutrients and water. That's why mandatory procedure there must be a sufficient amount of organic and mineral fertilizers applied to the soil. The main ones are potash and nitrogen, phosphorus should not exceed 1/3 of the introduced potash and nitrogen. Feeding with slurry can be performed:
- the first - during the budding period,
- the second - after 10 days,
- the third - after another 2 weeks.
After fruiting, the plant will also need nutrient replenishment. During this period, you can use liquid dressings, with the following composition:
- potassium sulfate - 15 g,
- double superphosphate - 30 gr,
- water - 10 liters.
As a top dressing, you can use a solution of nitroammofoska, mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1: 6, chicken droppings, diluted 1:12. First, the plant is watered abundantly, then nutrient mixtures are added, about 2 liters for each bush.
For normal fruiting per season, you will need to perform 3-4 feeding and 6-7 full watering. Watering should be carried out throughout the season, in a timely manner, in quantities that allow the soil to be kept moist.
It is also useful to introduce wood ash obtained from deciduous species in the amount of 200 g per 1 square meter of area.
growing raspberries - how to properly loosen the soil
Loosening of the beds with the onset of the first spring after planting is carried out at the earliest possible date - so as not to harm the emerging root processes. The depth of loosening in rows should be about 6-8 cm, in row spacing - up to 12 cm.During the summer, weeding can be repeated several times, as a crust forms after irrigation and emergence of weeds, but the maximum depth of loosening should not exceed 5 cm.
Before wintering, the site is dug up - in rows to a depth of 10 cm, in row spacing - by 15 cm. Care must be taken that the skeletal roots of plants are not damaged during digging, it is best to dig not with a shovel, but with a pitchfork. Throughout the season, shoots should be constantly removed, only planted bushes should remain. The thickening of the planting also leads to the crushing of the fruits, because shoots formed from the roots can take up to 50% of nutrients and moisture from plants.
The best option is to leave about 7 replacement shoots for each bush - this will allow you to get berries of fairly large sizes during each harvest.
Experts say that raspberry bushes are not prone to complete degeneration, but the root buds on them can mutate, usually for the worse. You can notice this negative phenomenon during flowering - the sepals will not be extended. Advice - such bushes should be completely removed - large-fruited varieties should initially have elongated sepals. For remontant varieties of raspberries, this change is not significant.
wintering features
Since it is almost impossible to predict how cold the winter will be, when growing raspberries in the middle lane, you will need to take care of it. reliable protection from frostbite.
Such a simple technique as bending the shoots to the ground and fixing them above the surface of the ground, using improvised means (boards, logs, metal staples) will allow you to cover the raspberry tree with a layer of snow half a meter thick in winter without any problems. The bushes prepared in this way are practically not susceptible to frostbite; in practice, it has been proven that they perfectly withstand even the harsh Siberian winters. Raspberries should be opened at a time when the threat of late frosts has passed.
harvest
Ripening of berries of the first raspberry harvest begins at the end of June.
This happens throughout the month. Since raspberries are distinguished by very delicate fruits that are not intended for long-term storage, then the berries should be harvested systematically, as they ripen, without overexposing them on the stems.
Breeding raspberries
If you want to breed new varieties of raspberries, you will have to buy seedlings. It is best to contact specialized nurseries - the planting material there is of a fairly high quality.
If the site is already grown suitable varieties, then you can use the vegetative propagation method and use the bushes formed from the root processes. In addition, you can perform the usual division of the bush into several parts, but the bushes for this should be chosen the most powerful. Shoots for transplantation should be chosen those that have a shoot thickness of more than 1 cm and a sponge-like, dense root system.
The productive period of raspberry bushes is from 12 to 20 years, while the characteristics of the raspberry variety, correct care, frost resistance and quality of soil cultivation play a role.
Raspberries are a tasty berry in the summer, and healing in the season of colds. We prefer to collect raspberries in the forest: for compotes, for jam and drying. And in order to treat yourself to a fresh berry, planting raspberries in small quantities on summer cottage ... The berries grow large enough, and there is enough to eat. About the subtleties planting raspberries on a personal plot we read in the book "Fruit growing" (1960).
Where is the best place to plant raspberries?
For good harvest worth considering where is it better to plant raspberries on the site... But if you consider that raspberries grow well in the forest, especially you don't have to bother. Our goal is to learn how to plant raspberries correctly. Therefore, we read on. So, raspberries love:
- Loamy and sandy loam soils fertilized with organic matter;
- Legumes and cereals perennial herbs as precursor plants.
Raspberry doesn't like:
- Wetlands;
- The proximity of groundwater (waters must be at least 1.5 m from the earth's surface);
- The plant does not like increased soil moisture, but it does not like the lack of moisture either. It is permissible to plant raspberries in low areas, but not in hollows and depressions.
For raspberries, it is best to allocate sunny areas in calm areas, for example, behind a fence or some kind of building, a shed. More snow accumulates there in winter, which prevents it from drying out, and also creates protection against freezing of buds and shoots. Raspberries do not take root well and grow in swampy areas, as well as on clay soils... BUT also does not like dryness, where it suffers from a lack of moisture.
What are raspberries planted next to?
After analyzing several Internet sources, we have compiled a summary table of favorable, undesirable and neutral neighborhoods, what can you plant next to raspberries.
|
Good neighborhood: can be planted |
Neutral:
permissible |
|
| Shrubs and trees:
black and red currants, blackberries, juniper, mountain pine, barberry. |
Shrubs and trees:
apple, plum, pear, peach, chokeberry, black currant, gooseberry, lilac. |
Shrubs and trees:
jasmine, elderberry, cherry. |
| Herbs: dill, celery, basil | Greens: mint, sage | Herbs: parsley |
| Vegetables: tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes, onions, White cabbage, peas, carrots. | Vegetables: cabbage, bush beans, pumpkin. | Vegetables: garlic, radish, beetroot. |
| Berries: strawberry | Berries: grapes. | |
| Flowers: roses, ferns, delphinium, peony, asters, foxglove. | Flowers: calendula, snapdragon, spirea, Turkish carnation, lilies, rhododendron, cosmea, astilbe, lupine. | Flowers: marigolds, nasturtium, hosta, iris. |
Crop rotation: After plants such as strawberries and potatoes, raspberry bushes should not be planted, since they have common pests. And after the raspberries themselves, onions, garlic, beans, cucumbers, zucchini grow well.
When to plant raspberries?
The most favorable time for planting varietal garden raspberries is autumn: the period from the end of the growing season and ending 2-3 weeks before frost. You can plant raspberries in early spring, but it is important to keep within before bud break.
Planting dates for raspberries Middle lane Russia:
- In autumn: end of September - first half of October
- In the spring: end of April - first half of May.
When to plant raspberries in the southern regions:
- In autumn: 2 weeks later than in the Central lane
- In the spring: 2 weeks earlier.
Fertilizing the soil for raspberries
Raspberries, like gooseberries with black currants, loves in his diet:
- Manure,
- Compost,
- Superphosphate,
- Potassium chloride,
- Ammonium nitrate.
It is these substances that form the basis of all dressings and fertilizing the soil before planting for raspberries(along with gooseberries and black currants).
Digging and fertilizing the soil is required before planting. Fertilizers are applied under the predecessor plants and directly under the pre-planting digging. Fertilizers are applied to the planting pits for each plant in the amount of:
6-8 kg of manure (bucket) of manure, humus or compost, 150-200 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium chloride, for acidic soils, lime is also used in an amount of 200-300 g.
The listed fertilizers are mixed with the soil in the planting pit. After the plant is placed in the hole, the roots are sprinkled with earth on the top layer, without fertilization. Instead of superphosphate, phosphate rock is also used (300-400 g per hole).
Planting technique: how to plant raspberries correctly
How far to plant raspberries?
Raspberries are planted in straight rows. Accommodation on household plots: the width between the rows is 1.5 m, and between the plants in a row - 0.5 m. Why is such a giant distance - you ask, - Where can you accelerate in the summer cottage ... But the fact is that next to the planted bushes will regularly grow young growth. According to science, within 3-4 years after planting, all root suckers that give the planted plants in the rows must be preserved. Shoots are removed from the row spacing. Thus, if space permits, stripes 40-50 cm wide are formed. The described method of placing raspberry bushes is called narrow-band.
In a summer cottage where space is limited, it can be problematic to keep the lanes. But at the same time, it is important to trim the raspberries so that there is no thickening and in order to rejuvenate the plantings. How to prune raspberries, how to care for them in order to achieve high harvest, it will be discussed in the article "...". Now let's get back to landing again.
How to plant raspberry seedlings in the ground?
Before planting, the seedlings are cut from above, leaving a stump of 15-20 cm. The roots, if damaged, are cut to a healthy place with a knife or secateurs. Do not break off the buds at the roots. After pruning, the roots are dipped in a soil mash and planting begins.
So, the soil was dug up and fertilized. The depth of the planting hole should be exactly the same as that of the seedlings. Deep planting oppresses the plants. The roots in the hole should lie freely, not bend or curl. The approximate size of the hole for heavy soils: 40-50 cm deep and 50-70 cm wide. On loose soils, seedlings are planted directly under a shovel. When planting, the roots of the plant are straightened.
When backfilling, the plant is gently shaken so that there are no voids in the soil. Finally, the soil around the planted plant is compacted with your feet.
Watering is required after planting. Water consumption: 10 liters for 2-3 seedlings. Following watering, the soil around the plants is mulched with manure or compost (diameter - 50 cm, mulch weight - 5 kg per bush).
In hot, dry weather, watering the novosad should be repeated, keeping the mulch under the bushes.