The question of how and how to cover plants for the winter is acute for every gardener before the end of the next holiday season. There are a lot of special covering materials for plants, but this does not mean that you need to wrap bushes, trees or flowers with a thick layer of dense fabric and you don’t have to worry. Not every culture needs such procedures, and for some, simple "grandfather" methods of protection, which you will learn about later, are quite enough.
On the eve of winter, people buy winter clothes for themselves or take out fur coats and down jackets from wardrobes and mezzanines. Also garden plants need shelter that reliably protects from frost. And since different cultures grow on our site, the types of winter shelters for each perennial are different.
You will learn about how to cover plants and how to do it correctly by reading this material.
When to cover plants in the garden for the winter?
In autumn, and even more so in winter, night frosts are a common occurrence. Gradually, the soil freezes, and a crust forms on it. If plants that are not resistant to frost overwinter in the garden, they should be covered. The timing of when to cover the plants in the garden for the winter depends on the specific characteristics of the crops. For example, warm-loving hydrangeas need to be covered from October, while roses can wait until the end of the month, as they need to be pruned first. But anyway experienced gardeners it is advised not to wait for persistent frosts, since a cold snap is accompanied by snowfall, and this will interfere with the construction of many shelters.
However, it is also not worth rushing to shelter flowers and other plants for winter protection. It happens that the first frosts down to -5 ° C occur already in September, which leads the owners of perennial wintering plants into confusion. You should not be afraid of this weather phenomenon.
The first frosts in September-October are a common thing and do not interfere with plants on their own, without human intervention, to prepare for winter. Even if the thermometer shows -10 ° C, such a temperature will not cause any harm to perennials.
Light snow at this time of the year will also not prevent plants from waiting for real winter snowfalls, shedding leaves, etc. Indeed, most often after small frosts a thaw occurs, even if before that a crust of ice has formed on the ground.
Do not rush to build shelters, as this is the last opportunity for plants to enjoy the sun's rays, absorb the remains nutrients and distribute them among twigs and leaves, grow roots and finish the maturation of tissues. Without this, garden pets will not have the strength to survive the long winter. Even more - early frosts are good for many bulbous plants, because thanks to this, their germination is slowed down and all wintering crops rebuild their life rhythm under new weather conditions.
What plants to cover for the winter?
All plants can be conditionally divided according to the level of cold resistance and, based on this, shelters can be built. Referring a particular culture to certain type, one should evaluate not only its cold resistance, but also winter hardiness in general.
This refers to the ability of the plant to withstand low temperatures associated dampness and disease, spring burns and other unfavorable factors that we associate with the onset of the winter season. To properly cover plants, it is important to evaluate the ability of garden pets to recover from freezing.
However, the viability of a plant depends not only on its own defensive forces, but also on what kind of weather surprises winter has prepared.
It is also worth taking into account that climate zone where you live and possible temperature anomalies in your region. Only by evaluating all of the above factors, you can make a decision on the construction of a shelter.
First of all, you should build a shelter for the winter for flowers such as daffodils of all groups, as well. Lilies require protection, but not all, but only tubular hybrids, candidum and oriental lilies - they need to be covered especially carefully. Perennials that need winter protection are Incarvillea, Knifofia, Korean Chrysanthemum, Physostegia, and others.
It is not necessary to cover for the winter those small-bulb flowers that bloom in the spring -, (chess and white-flowered), pushkinia, and others. These plants take root well and do not have time to freeze during the winter. But if you plant these bulbs after September 20, you should cover them with mulch on top. One of the conditions for a good wintering of all bulbs is a landing site that is not flooded. melt waters.
Heat-loving perennials, such as asparagus, rhubarb, lemon balm and others, also need winter shelter.
The best covering material for plants for the winter
Modern covering materials for plants for the winter are striking in variety. But at the same time, we should not forget about those who served faithfully to our grandparents. To create a reliable shelter, you should use them in combination.
Nonwoven.
The most commonly used dense non-woven white material, or geotextile. High-density material should be chosen - from 80 g per 1 m2. Such fabric does not get wet and performs its protective functions better. When installing shelters, it is necessary to ensure that the material does not come into contact with the leaves or needles of plants. Also, the coating should be only white.
Sackcloth.
This coating is more effective than non-woven fabric. Under the burlap, the plants do not fade and do not burn. The coating can be used even without a frame, simply by throwing the material over the plant and tying it with a rope on top.
Even if the leaves of evergreens freeze to the burlap, in the spring they are restored without loss. Often, burlap is used not as a shelter from frost, but as a protection against drying and burns. The only drawback of the material is the price. For example, geotextile brand 60 is about 4 times cheaper than burlap.
Jute mesh.
In fact, this material for sheltering crops for the winter is a more expensive version of burlap. In addition, jute mesh does not have softness and is difficult to work with.
Film.
Without it, it is impossible to make an air-dry shelter for the most demanding plants - roses and hydrangeas. But a special approach is needed for the film; when constructing protection, it is necessary to know some nuances so as not to destroy the plants.
Composite canvas.
This is a novelty among covering materials for sheltering plants. The canvas consists of geotextile and fine mesh plastic mesh. When installing structures made of composite fabric, it is necessary to additionally create a frame, since the material will not hold its shape. The canvas is intended only for small plants, since its width is 0.4-1 m and it is not enough to cover large plants.
Plant shelter rules
Before covering flowers and other plants, you should familiarize yourself with the basic installation rules. protective materials in accordance with local climatic features and their capabilities.
Remember that plants, unlike us, are not warm-blooded creatures. And if we can keep warm by putting on a fur coat, then wrapping the plants is useless. V winter time heat comes from the ground, and in order for the shelter to have a comfortable temperature, it is necessary to reduce heat loss due to heat-insulating materials. The winter plant house will be warmer if it is low. But various covers, winding plants on a support serve to protect against burns, wind, but not from frost.
The main heat-insulating material presented to us by nature itself is snow. If a layer of loose snow lay on the site all winter, one would not have to worry about shelters. Therefore, all protective devices must be constructed so that they are covered with snow. They should not be tall and with peaks that prevent coverage.
Heat is retained better if loose materials are used, and the shelter itself must contain layers of air.
Shelters must be built in a timely manner, as mentioned above, and before that, the plants are fed, cut, then the soil around them is loosened, covered with humus, compost, manure and spud. Only after that you can proceed to the construction of protection.
Despite all the efforts of gardeners, it happens that plants die in shelters, and most often the reason for this is not the cold, but various diseases that thrive in damp conditions. Therefore, it is worth taking care to create dry shelters, as well as ventilate the plants in autumn and spring and prevent water from flowing into them.
The main types of winter shelter plants
The main types of plant shelter for the winter are mulching, hilling, air-dry and air-wet methods.
Mulching.
Mulching refers to covering the ground various materials in order to reduce heat loss and to preserve the root system. Almost all wintering garden plants can be sprinkled with mulch. But this is especially important for bulbs and plants that are not cold-resistant enough or with a shallow root system.
Humus, sawdust, peat, leaves and other materials are used as mulch. Plants are mulched around, but the place where the earth touches the trunk of the plant cannot be touched. Over time, the mulch can move closer to the base of the plants due to snow and rain. In order to prevent this, the space directly near the trunk must be covered with sand with a small slide.
Often, garden plants fall asleep with fallen leaves, but it should be borne in mind that dry leaves scattered on the ground perfectly perform the function of thermal insulation. On the contrary, wet foliage only worsens the situation and promotes rotting. If plants with rosettes hibernate on the site (for example, korean chrysanthemums), for them, wet leaves can cause death, especially if the region is dominated by a humid climate.
Hilling.
Hilling means adding earth, peat, sawdust and other loose materials to the base of the bush. The layer is laid with a height of 10-40 cm. Thus, the temperature rises in the region of the root collar and the buds present in this place are preserved. This is done in relation to many plants - hydrangeas, clematis, roses. But be careful, because for some plants that are prone to warming up, hilling can cause death, as it leads to the dampening of the bark at the base of the bush.
In the northwest, the climate is unstable, winter sets in for a long time, and plants should be spudded with caution. In addition, hilling cannot be carried out if frost cracks have appeared on the plant. For example, in roses, an infection can penetrate through the resulting cracks.
Bending down.
Many plants have an aerial part that is susceptible to cold. These can be shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots. Such plants are protected by bending down, followed by snow cover. Bending down is carried out as follows: a peg is driven into the ground and upper part plants are fixed in a horizontal position with ropes and a wire shackle. There are even special wire stands on sale, equipped with rings to support the bushes.
Boards or gratings must be placed under the plant so that it is not bent down to the ground and the branches do not rot from dampness. This must be done before the onset of frost, otherwise the wood will become too brittle. Sometimes plants are covered with a non-woven fabric on top. Subject to bending down large-leaved hydrangeas, shrub and climbing roses, weigels and others. In the spring, the bushes must be straightened before the shoots appear, otherwise the plants will twist.
Air dry cover.
This is the most time-consuming and at the same time one of the most effective winter shelters. It consists of strong frame, which can withstand the weight of snow (up to 60 cm high), an insulating layer and a moisture-proof layer. The frame is made of thick wire, a shield, a wooden box laid on supports.
As heat-insulating material lutrasil or panels of any fabric are used. The moisture insulating layer is made of a transparent or black polyethylene film or roofing material. A silvery film is also suitable for this - it is opaque, but, unlike black, heats up much less. When using a transparent film, the shelter must be additionally shaded, otherwise in the spring the protective structure will turn into a greenhouse and the plants will overheat.
All structures using film suffer from one misfortune - dampness. It is necessary to ensure dryness in the shelter, and this is done as follows.
Inside the winter house, all fallen leaves and weeds are removed. They also tear off all the leaves from the plant itself and dry this place well.
For example, above a plant, you can install polyethylene roof. When creating protection, it is necessary to use only dry materials to avoid additional moisture.
It is also necessary to make holes in the building for ventilation. They are closed when frost sets in with a film or lutrasiris, so that the plant is at least a little ventilated when a thaw occurs.
Air-wet shelter.
This structure is an alternative to the difficult-to-install air-dry shelter.
The purpose of such a shelter is to create around the plant air gap. At the same time, the plant itself is not isolated from moisture, it gets wet and dries out as a result of ventilation, but it is very important not to press it tightly to the ground during the construction of the structure.
Usually a dense non-woven material is placed on a low support. The support may not be as strong as in the case of an air-dry shelter, and the material is laid in 1-2 layers.
The support can be made of slats laid on logs or bricks. Even plastic lattice boxes for vegetables are suitable for this purpose.
Such protection is especially useful for cuttings, which, thanks to it, do not press against the ground and, therefore, do not rot. If chrysanthemums and phloxes are to be hidden under cover, the remains of the stems that stick out after pruning are used as a support. On them, the plant is covered with thick lutrasil or cloth. With this method of protection, the plant can be kept in shelter in any weather and the opening time is not critical.
In the next section of the article, you will learn how to cover roses, conifers and evergreens for the winter.
How to properly cover trees and climbing roses for the winter (with video)
Shelter of rhododendrons and conifers.
These types of plants do not tolerate winter well. They suffer most often not from frost, but from burns, wrangling and withering. To shelter for the winter coniferous trees and rhododendrons, first of all they need to be protected from wind, sun and heavy snow, since branches can break under its weight.
Shelter of evergreen trees.
Before sheltering evergreen trees for the winter, prepare right material. These plants do not tolerate film and even dense lutrasil as protection. For them, structures are made using light fabric.
You can sew a cover from old sheets and secure it with sticks installed like a hut and a rope. Boxes with slots are also used as shelters, and only the roof is covered with polyethylene. Plants are shaded from autumn, and they remove protection in cloudy weather after the snow has melted and the earth has thawed.
Shelter of climbing roses.
In the case of these plants, several methods of protection must be applied at once. Bushes spud, bend down and cover.
When installing protective structure it is necessary to be prepared for any weather conditions, which are most often impossible to predict. Therefore, it is important to choose the optimal types of shelters that will stand in the garden until spring. It is also important not to overfeed plants with nitrogen in autumn, to fight pests and diseases, and to observe planting dates. This will allow plants to survive even the most severe frosts without loss.
Watch a video on how to cover roses for the winter to reliably protect plants:
Hello reader!
Today I want to talk about sheltering flowers for the winter. What a garden - a vegetable garden can do without perennials! There simply aren't any. And they cover them so that in winter the greenery does not rot under the snow, especially in early spring. When it's warm and high humidity. To do this, many perennial flowers are covered for the winter. Shelter also saves the roots from freezing in frosty winters with little snow. Before October, it is not necessary to start sheltering, let the first small frosts harden the plants and prepare them for winter.
How to cover flowers for the winter
1. Perennial flowers
Many perennial flowers ( daisies, cloves,, daisies, arabis) go under the snow with green, juicy leaves and stems. From temperature fluctuations and high humidity under the snow, the greenery begins to rot, and the flowers die. Protects from this misfortune shelter.
We usually cover thin layer fallen leaves - usually 5-7 cm. Of course, it is better to first cover all plantings of these flowers with spruce branches or brushwood (hardwood branches), this will provide ventilation and protect the plants from decay.
Primrose
In autumn, gardeners have enough to do, you say, and then cover the flowers. But we will not be lazy, and we will protect our unpretentious perennials. May they continue to delight us with lush flowering.
For primrose (primrose) the thickness of the coating of fallen leaves will be enough 5 cm.
In winter, try to add snow to these places. Most The best way keep warm - this is a large snowdrift over the flower garden.
2. Shelter bulb flowers
Lilies with white flowers! we cover with a layer of fallen leaves of 10-15 cm. Since their bulbs grow at the very surface of the soil and can freeze. In all other varieties, the bulbs are buried in the ground and do not need to be covered.
3. Rudbeckia, delphinium
In early October (after flowering) on old plantings roses (except climbing ones), about roses below in more detail, rudbeckia, delphinium, burning clematis we cut the leaves and stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil surface. And before frosts (without waiting for them), we mulch with peat or earth (a layer of at least 3-5 cm) to protect plants from freezing. From above, you can cover with foliage or spruce branches.
Cover material video
4. Shelter of roses
Naturally, you can make a flower shelter in your own way from improvised materials. But don't forget - main principle shelters - so that air space remains under it. Before the temperature drops to -10 ° C, we leave gaps for ventilation. You can also read about other ways
Shelter of roses for hydrangeas for the winter can be not only reliable, but also beautiful. See how to make them and for thuja, what materials are best to use.
What plants need to be covered for the winter?
Let's deal with this issue first. The need for insulation depends on the region. In southern latitudes, almost all plants winter well. In the more northern - the following representatives of the dacha flora need shelters:
- All roses. In short, the low ones will winter well under a wooden box, which is covered on top with a dense non-woven material, on which cellophane is thrown. In the spring, the film must be removed in time to ensure the ventilation of the plants. Tall roses can be covered with the same materials, but after building a frame for us.
- Some ornamental shrubs. Insulate: Japanese quince, forsythia, large-leaved hydrangea. A hydrangea shelter for the winter is a cover made of dense lutrasil or spunbond, which you can sew with your own hands.
- Bulb flowers planted this year. First, a layer of peat 5 cm thick is poured on this place, in cooler regions where there are little snowy winters, a double-folded piece of dense spunbond is placed on top. It is fixed with small stones. But such insulation must be removed in time in the spring. At an older age, these plantings will not need such shelter for the winter, of course, if it is not the north of Russia.
- In such areas with a problematic climate, it is also necessary to cover strawberries and strawberries., first - with a layer of peat, and on top with non-woven material, fixing it along the edges with stones, bricks.
- Alpine plants. They are afraid not so much of frost as of soaking. Therefore, it is necessary to cover alpine plants for the winter by building high shelters in the form of a house, where there is a lot of air and good ventilation.
- Rhododendrons. A frame made of U-shaped structures is placed above them, placing them crosswise over each bush. Spunbond, lutrasil or medium-density agrotex are laid on top, on which polyethylene film. Rhododendrons do not tolerate drought well, so you need to cover the plants when it rained or after watering, while alpine plants are warmed on dry ground.
- Ephedra: juniper, spruce, conic, thuja. If conifers are 3 or less years old, then all these young plants need warming in winter. For them, you need to sew covers made of high-density non-woven material. It is more expedient to put on these shelters after a cold snap, when sleet falls, so that the needles do not dry out under the covers of these plants.
- Clematis. They are removed from the support, put on facade foam which is laid on the ground. A box is placed on top, covered in the same way as roses.
- Trunks fruit trees so that mice and hares do not spoil them.
- Perennial flowers. Compost or peat is sprinkled under them.
- Raspberry. She is sheltered in cool regions. Raspberries are tied into bundles and bent. So that it does not straighten out, a stone, for example, a brick, is tied to the harness. It remains to throw a non-woven material of medium thickness on it.
- Winter garlic. After the first frost, it is desirable to cover it with fallen leaves.
Shelter of roses for the winter
If it is climbing or those that grow close to each other, you can make a tunnel shelter.
To do this, take:
- bars;
- slats;
- plastic arcs;
- spunbond with a density of 60;
- polyethylene film;
- nails;
- stones.
- Cut the bars of the same size, drive them in the center on one straight line. Nail a long, strong rail on top of them. If there is not one, then attach several, placing one after the other. Put arcs on top.
- Shelter of roses for the winter should be done in October. It is highly desirable that the soil under the bushes be dry. Therefore, if rains are expected at the end of September, then you need to cover trunk circle film plants.
- Some rose growers remove leaves from stems to prevent them from becoming a source high humidity and fungal diseases.
- If it gets noticeably colder, you need to sprinkle peat around the near-stem circle of roses. A double layer of non-woven covering material with a density of 60 is thrown onto the constructed tunnel shelter. If it is new, it will not let rain through.
- If the density is not so high or the material is not new, then you need to put a film on top, but leave a space (20-30 cm from the ground) on the sides not closed, for better ventilation. It needs to be securely fixed.
- Roses are usually covered for the winter when the temperature rises. zero mark, will drop to -2 ... -4 ° С, and hardened plants will endure cooling down to -7 ° С. Therefore, many insulate them in November.
But you need to cut the park roses, remove the climbing ones from the supports and cover the near-trunk circle with peat in advance.
If you live in a warm climate, then you can wrap climbing roses with non-woven material, tie with twine without bending.
But, of course, it is better to bend them to the ground, so that then the plants are covered with snow. But with standard roses it is more difficult. They are insulated in the following way.
First take:
- non-woven fabric or burlap;
- twine;
- scissors;
- pegs.
Cropped roses can be covered with burlap. In the same way, other low heat-loving shrubs are insulated.
Hybrid tea, park roses are cut by a third, covered with caps made of non-woven material. To make the site look beautiful in winter, see how to make such insulation with your own hands.
How to sew shelters for roses for the winter?
To make such picturesque gnomes, take:
- bright and white non-woven material;
- scissors;
- threads to match fabrics;
- a needle;
- gum.
- Trim the rose first. Measure the distance from her crown to the ground - this is the height of the future cone. But it will be necessary to add 4 cm for a turn-up from below and 5 cm for a free fit. Let's designate the final value as "A".
- Now, on the selected material, draw an isosceles triangle. Its identical sides are the “A” value, and the lower side is the diameter of the crown, plus 2 cm for the seams.
- Now you need to sew the opposite sides of this shelter for roses. You will get a semblance of a cone. Turn it upside down twice, sew. Thread an elastic band into the resulting space, it is needed in order to fix the fabric gnome on the plant from below.
- Cut out the facial features of this character and his beard and mustache. If you will sew these elements on your hands, then you can do it at this stage. If on a typewriter, then stitch them before you sew the sides of the triangle. Make a pompom, sew it on the top of the gnome.
Depending on the manufacturer, non-woven material may be called: lutrisil, spunbond, agrotex, etc. Choose one so that its density is 60-80 g / sq. m.
How to cover coniferous plants?
Many of them also require insulation. Some conifers can do without shelter, but arborvitae, especially young ones, are best insulated for the winter.
First, from the middle to the end of October, dry top dressing should be carried out. A complex is poured along the near-trunk circle mineral fertilizer. Mulch is laid on top with a layer of 10–20 cm. It is better to use peat. If the winter promises to be harsh, then spruce branches are placed on top of the mulch. In the spring, you will need to remove the branches, and crumbled needles and mulch will be an excellent spring top dressing.
Thuja shelter for the winter should protect it from:
- heavy snow cover;
- negative temperatures;
- bright sun at the end of winter, at the beginning of spring.
If you bought a very small thuja in late autumn, then it is better to leave it in the same pot for the winter. You can put it on glazed balcony where the temperature in winter is below +5°C. Sometimes sprinkle snow under the plants, which will also become watering.
Here are some materials suitable for covering thuja for the winter.
- Gauze. This material is cut into strips 50 cm wide, which are fastened together with a stapler. At the top of the thuja and below, the insulation is fixed.
- Kraft paper. First, the branches of the trees are pressed against the trunk, wrapped well with wrapping paper. The strips need to be overlapped, overlapping the previous one by 10 cm. First you need to wrap the top of the thuja, then gradually go down, wrapping the plant in a spiral. To prevent the craft paper from unfolding, it is fixed with wire, a stapler, twine.
- Non-woven material. From it you can sew insulation that will last 5-7 seasons or simply tie plants.
Young thujas are insulated using a frame. To make it yourself, prepare:
- thick slats;
- reliable wire;
- bars;
- metal corners;
- plastic pipes.
It is best to make a triangular frame, this will not collapse under the weight of snow. Stick slats or bars, pipes, slats around the thuja to a depth of 40 cm. Fix the upper ends above the top of the tree with wire. Horizontal crossbars are attached to the vertical ones.
A bag-case is put on top of this base, to which ribbons must be sewn and tied around the frame.
Do-it-yourself warming of plants for the winter will allow you to make frames and covers according to the size of a particular plant.
To make the wrapped trees look attractive, you can draw whatever you want on paper shelters, for example, funny faces. Beat the dark-colored material by adapting dry sticks here to make a small architectural form similar to a wigwam.
Early in the spring, do not rush to remove the shelter. It will protect the branches from burning out due to the bright sun. For the winter, it is necessary to insulate not only the branches of the thuja, but also the trunk circle.
To decide which material to use for this, check out the presented. They can also mulch the soil under other heat-loving crops, adding a touch of originality when warming them.
How to mulch plants?
Here are the main materials used for this:
- sawdust;
- needles;
- sackcloth;
- brushwood;
- straw;
- Construction Materials;
- spruce branches;
- peat.
Sackcloth
It has been used to make insulation for plants since ancient times. With this material:
- tie tree trunks;
- cover roses, hydrangeas;
- shade conifers so that they do not get sunburn.
Sawdust
sawdust - lovely thermal insulation material. But it is better not to cover the whole plant with them, but only the near-trunk circle, covering the aerial part. Some put sawdust in bags and thus warm the crops.
You can use only natural sawdust from wood, and not various secondary processed products, such as chipboard.
It is necessary to mulch the plants only with dry sawdust, as wet prey. If the shelter is not dry, moisture gets under the crops, then the sawdust should be positioned so that it does not touch the plant trunks. It is better to use large sawdust, they do not absorb moisture as much as small ones.
Sawdust acidifies the soil, so it is best to mulch the soil under crops that prefer acidic soils. For example, sheltering a hydrangea for the winter with such material will be justified. She prefers just such lands.
Under sawdust in spring, the soil will thaw longer. Therefore, if you need the plant to wake up in time after the winter, it is better to remove them in the spring.
Peat
One of the most successful materials that will allow you to insulate plants for the winter, covering them as if with a feather bed. After all, peat is light and warm under it. Even if it gets wet, it does not retain moisture for a long time.
But, like sawdust, peat makes the soil more acidic. Therefore, under crops that like neutral or alkaline, you need to add a little ash or lime, dolomite flour, chalk.
Construction Materials
Some are used as winter material like these ones wooden boxes. But first you need to mulch the plant, and put such a box on top. To prevent water from penetrating, the container is covered with a film. But it is necessary to create ventilation systems.
Other building materials are also used:
- slate;
- cutting boards;
- ruberoid.
Lapnik
They also cover plants. In addition, it will protect them from mice. But it is better not to cover crops that love alkaline soils in this way. The crumbled needles will make the earth in this place more acidic.
It is important to properly harvest spruce branches so as not to break the law. It can be cut, for example, from a fallen tree, but not from a growing one. It is better to take a picture of this object so that you can prove where the spruce branches came from. The same applies to planned tree felling.
Foliage
Dry fallen leaves good material for warming the roots and lower parts of plants. But if the tree is affected by fungal diseases, such foliage is not suitable.
In spring, it is difficult to remove foliage from under plants, so it is better to pour it into nets for vegetables, insulate the crops in this way, making at the same time a small art object.
You can make a shelter for plants by taking:
- stakes;
- twine;
- dry leaves;
- grids;
- ruberoid.
Straw
If there is an opportunity to get straw, use it. This material well suited for warming plants and shelter beds for the winter. In order for the soil to thaw here in time in spring, you need to remove this shelter early enough.
You can make a semblance of a wigwam, a hut, a statue, a scarecrow out of straw so that the shelter of plants for the winter is elegant. But strengthen such an art object well so that it is not blown away by the winds.
Now you can reliably protect the plants in the country, and the shelters will look unusual and picturesque! In the video below, 5 myths about sheltering plants for the winter:
With the end of the summer season, sheltering plants for the winter becomes relevant for every gardener. Of fundamental importance are individual characteristics each culture, because the method of shelter depends on it.
Why is shelter needed?
Warming of shrubs and flowers in the garden - important procedure care. Its correct implementation will protect the garden pet from adverse factors environment. The construction of a shelter is a kind of preparation of plants for winter.
In addition to the main function of the shelter - insulation, there are a number of other advantages of this procedure:
- Protection against rodents that love to profit from the bark of trees.
- Maintaining the integrity of the trunks. Severe frosts often lead to cracks in the trunk. To prevent this, the trees are treated with whitewash or covered with spruce branches.
- Defence from sunburn which are possible even in winter. Since February, the rays of the sun are detrimental to young bushes up to 5 years old.
There is no fixed term that is universal for all plants. To choose the time for warming, it is important to study the characteristics of each culture. This information will help you understand not only when to cover, but also with what. Gardeners recommend not to rush to insulate a tree or shrub with the onset of the first cold weather. Small frosts will not destroy the culture, but excess moisture, accumulating under insulation material, will provoke rotting and rotting of the root system.
November is the approximate time for the preparation of insulation, since low temperatures are established during this period.
Video: "How to cover plants for the winter"
From this video you will learn how to properly cover the plants for the winter.
What plants need to be protected from the cold
First you need to find out the level of resistance of a garden pet to:
- low temperatures;
- fungal diseases;
- burning in the second half of winter the sun's rays.
You also need to take into account the climatic characteristics of your region. This is one of the main aspects in choosing a method of insulation.
Modern materials:
- Non-woven fabric, like lutrasil, geotextile, spunbond. It retains heat for a long time, so it is advisable to use it for residents of regions with severe winters. The material is used both independently and as an element of a frame structure. The material is classified by density: a non-woven fabric with a density of 30 g / m² will protect the plant at a temperature of -7 ° C, and for a material with a density of 60 g / m², temperatures down to -10 ° C are not afraid. For agricultural purposes, Agrospanbond is used - this is a cover that will reliably protect the plant from significant cooling, the scorching rays of the sun, insects and rodents.
- Burlap is an organic material, so it can be buried in the ground without fear of exposure to toxins. When choosing matter as a heater, care should be taken that there is an open space between it and the plant. The burlap absorbs liquid well. Its excess creates a comfortable habitat for fungal diseases. It is important to use new burlap. If this is not possible, the material should be treated with fungicides.
- Jute mesh is a more expensive variety of burlap. In addition, it is much stiffer, so it is more difficult to work with it.
- The film is able to keep the root space dry. This is definitely an advantage. But the summer resident should remember the need for good air circulation in the shelter.
- Composite fabric is a tandem of geotextiles and fine mesh. The option is used for undersized shrubs, because the size of the canvas is small. When working with the material, you must first prepare the frame, since the canvas does not hold its shape.
Before you start preparing a flower garden for winter, you need to remember one important fact: the plant receives the lion's share of heat and useful substances from the earth. That is why it is important to ensure the thermal insulation of the soil.
Cases and frame structures serve to protect from winds, sun rays and precipitation, but not from frost. They are relevant for the Moscow region and other regions with relatively mild winters. In areas with severe frosts, more substantial methods of insulation are resorted to.
The main methods of shelter are:
- Hilling. It is a distribution at the base of a tree or shrub of a loose mixture of peat, earth and sawdust. The method is relevant for regions middle lane Russia, where the heat is replaced by a sharp cooling. Hilling is unacceptable if cracks appear on the stem or trunk. This is fraught with the occurrence of a fungal infection and the death of the plant.
- Mulching is often used in the case of bulbous flowers, as they have a superficial root system. The method is covering the soil with moss, sawdust, foliage and other materials to keep warm.
- Bending down is relevant for tall heat-loving crops. The technology of this method is very simple: a stake is driven into the ground, to which the ground part of the plant is tied, followed by snow cover.
- The air-dry method is characterized by the construction of a frame, which is covered with a heat-insulating and waterproof material.
- The air-wet method of insulation is similar to the previous one. It involves the creation of an air gap around a shrub or tree. The stems left after pruning are used as pegs. The plant is covered with thin matter, thanks to which it receives required amount liquid, light and air. It is good oxygen circulation that is the main sign of a properly constructed greenhouse.
Experienced gardeners prepare in advance for the onset of cold weather. During this period, plants living in a country house or in an apartment need special care. Compliance with the key norms and rules of warming will provide the garden pet with a long life and lush flowering.
In autumn, nevertheless, fertile days are not uncommon when you want to put aside the most urgent matters and stay in the garden. Flowers at this time look unusually touching. The colors of the garden are added by trees and shrubs changing their clothes.
Autumn chores in the garden.
All this beauty will soon face severe winter tests, and it is in our power to help plants survive the upcoming cold weather more easily. How to care for flowers and other decorative plantings in the fall will be discussed in this article.
Perennial flower care
Winter-hardy perennials ( daylilies, perennial asters, yarrows, oriental poppy, autumn gelenium etc.) you need quite a bit of help: cut off after frost, leaving short stumps, loosen the soil around the bushes. If in September we did not have time to feed, we will introduce phosphorus-potassium fertilizers under the bushes: 2 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per sq. m.
There is no need to insulate winter-hardy plants, and yet, if possible, we will mulch them with compost or good humus, later we will throw fallen leaves in case of snowless frosts. If there is not much compost, we will first sprinkle plants that have not been divided and transplanted for a long time: they winter worse than young, well-established plants.
Autumn perennials.
Late-planted plants will also require little shelter: by winter, they may not take root well enough. Even peonies, which are characterized by increased winter hardiness, if planted in autumn, it is better to mulch with humus or compost.
In geyher, the opposite is true: they winter well in young age, but over time, their growth buds, rising above the soil level, may suffer in a snowless winter. Therefore, to the "age" plants geyhery, as well as , phlox paniculata it is recommended to pour the soil in the fall. With the onset of stable cold weather, we add soil to the rhizomes irises, to row it early in the spring.
What to do with lilies
Do not require shelter Asian hybrids lilies. Preparing them for the winter, we cut the stems, we make sure that during periods of winter thaws, their area will not be flooded with melt water. If there is such a danger, we make drainage grooves.
For less winter hardy oriental and tubular lilies stock heaters: leaves, grass, compost. We will cover these lilies after the first frosts.
How to care for roses in autumn
It is necessary to take care of the roses, to prepare a winter shelter for them.
Perennials do not require a warm shelter.
After a steady cooling, we cover insufficiently frost-resistant perennials. We spud them with earth or mulch them, cover them with non-woven material folded in two layers, fixing it on wire arcs.
You can also use improvised materials. For example, cutting off perennials, we cover them with soil or compost, cover plastic boxes, on top of which we throw a non-woven material. We sprinkle the ends of lutrasil or other material with earth so that it does not blow away.
What flowers are planted in autumn
Roses can be planted in autumn.
Spray roses are planted half a meter apart.
In October we plant bulbs: first - , hyacinths and towards the end of the month tulips. Bulbs purchased in a store, as a rule, do not need pre-planting treatment (they are already processed), but bulbs dug up on their site or donated by friends are better to pickle from diseases with a fungicide maxim-dacha resident: soak for half an hour in a solution (2 ml per liter of water), then dry and plant.
We plant the bulbs that we plan to dig next season more often - every 10-15 cm, so that flowering is spectacular. If we are not going to dig out, we will plant less often, leaving room for the nest of bulbs to grow.
There is no great need to “warm” tulips, although a layer of compost or humus will not interfere with them: in spring the flowers will be larger, the flower stalks will be longer.
Hyacinths, daffodils need to be taken care of by sprinkling the planting site with compost, humus, and throwing leaves. After snowless winters, "attacks" occur in the plantings of these bulbs. The bulbs will not necessarily die, but will not flower if frost damages the flower buds.
Digging up gladiolus and dahlia tubers
In October, it's time to dig up corms gladioli. But if thrips (colorless “strokes” and “spots” on leaves and petals) worked on the plants, it is advisable to treat them with an insecticide a week before digging ( alatar- 5 ml, actor- 8 g per 10 l).
If the time for processing gladioli is missed, it is pointless to process in cold weather (thrips goes to "hibernate" under the cover scales of corms), you will have to process after digging. Having dug up the corms of gladioli, cut off the stems, leaving hemp 5-6 cm. Dry for a month in a warm place.
After the first frosts, we dig up dahlias.
Some shrubs require shelter for the winter.
In the meantime, we spray the bushes with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or a solution of abiga-peak (40-50 g per 10 liters of water) from different kind leaf spots.
It is advisable to treat deciduous shrubs from fungal diseases, especially if the diseases make themselves felt in spots on the leaves, drying shoots. Sick shoots are cut to living tissue. We cover the formed wounds oil paint oil based. Trees and shrubs, on the branches of which mosses and lichens have settled, are sprayed with a 3% solution of iron sulfate.
It is desirable to strengthen the pyramidal crowns coniferous plants, not tightly tying them with twine so that the branches do not break off in winter under the weight of snow. The same white non-woven material, loosely thrown over the crown, will save the conifers from burns.
The lawn also needs autumn care. If a haircut is required, we will cut it, but not as short as in summer: in winter we leave a herbage 15-20 cm high. We constantly remove fallen leaves from the grass, under which the grass may disappear during the winter. It is not necessary to feed the lawn in October, stimulating growth, but it is possible to sprinkle the turf with a thin layer of compost, and then comb it with a rake.