How to make a plasterboard ceiling structure. Suspended ceiling systems from gypsum plasterboard

Complex multi-level design with DIY lighting

Going online and looking at photos from various designs, the average person begins to get a little “dizzy” from the huge variety of shapes and colors in the interiors of the room. Ceilings are no exception, but it is worth noting a small nuance - if modern and classic building materials are used to create beauty on the walls and floors, which may not always be affordable, then to make something original and truly beautiful ceiling you only need drywall, the price of which is reasonable for most.

So, the topic of today’s article is plasterboard structures on the ceiling. We will look at how different structures are installed.

Pre-installation preparation

Let's not sway for a long time, and let's immediately begin installing our ceiling.

Tools and materials

This section will be especially interesting for those who have never encountered such work before. Along the way, we will tell you how to correctly calculate the amount of material for the selected design.

Let's start with the tools:

	One of the most important tools when working with drywall is a hammer drill, of course, if you are not mounting the structure on wooden base. With its help we will drill holes to fix the profile to concrete floors And stone walls. For the hammer drill, it is advisable to purchase several drills with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of about 10 centimeters. You will also need refractory grease (Litol-24) to lubricate the drills before installation.
	Another indispensable tool. With its help, we will fasten the frame parts, as well as screw the sheets of drywall. We advise you to purchase good cue balls (long and short) in order to be able to reach the very difficult places, of which there will be many.
	When screwing self-tapping screws into drywall, it is very important not to break through the paper layer, and it is unacceptable that the heads of the screws remain unrecessed, as this will greatly interfere with the puttying of the surface. This device, costing from 60 rubles, will simplify the task as much as possible. Problems can only arise if you purchase a profile that is too thin and the screws will scroll through it, but that’s another story.
	Another cheap tool that will speed up your work. When installing the frame on the ceiling, it is very important to accurately mark large areas. The lace will allow you to cope with the task in a matter of seconds.
	Offer to buy you an expensive one laser level We won’t, since it’s impractical for a one-time repair, but if you want to earn a living from installation, then think about buying it. We recommend a simple hydraulic level, which will do the job even better, and it can be made from a transparent hose lying around in the garage. The disadvantages of this tool include the fact that you will have to tinker a little longer, and you will definitely need an assistant.
	You can get used to working with side cutters, but it’s still better to take the straight option. Choose models with double levers, otherwise prepare to strain the tendons in your forearms. Believe me, the feeling is not pleasant. They do an excellent job of cutting metal profiles, but if you plan to work with large area, then you can take a small circular saw. Someone warns that with such a cut, the zinc layer burns out and the profile will begin to rust, but if you work in a dry room, this is not a problem.
	Not at all mandatory, but a very useful tool. It is most often useful when installing a profile on walls, but it will also be useful for ceilings. More on this a little later.
	A good utility knife and appropriate blades will be needed when straight cut drywall.
	If you need to cut curved pieces from drywall, this tool will help, but you can replace it with an inexpensive drywall hacksaw.
	When cutting sheets of drywall, uneven edges are often formed. This tool will fix everything in seconds.
	Using a plane, a chamfer is removed from the edge of the drywall when jointing the cut sheets. If you don’t have one, you can use a utility knife, but the result will be a little “clumsy.”

You will also need: a tape measure, a pencil and a marker, a lift (optional if there is no one to help), a strong nylon thread.

Now let's look at what materials should be purchased for ceiling installation:

	Actually, the drywall itself. We advise you to purchase original products from Knauf, as they are always different good quality. We don’t want to offend anyone, but we advise what we know. In stores you can be offered three varieties of it, which are painted in different colors: Beige or gray– standard gypsum board sheet intended for installation in dry rooms; Green – moisture-resistant gypsum board. Someone writes that this option supposedly does not get wet - complete nonsense, the whole difference is in the presence of antiseptic impregnation; Pink– fire-resistant GKLVO, intended for installation in places potentially dangerous for fire, as well as in rooms with high temperatures. If you are planning to mount, then the first option will be quite sufficient. For the ceiling, plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm is sold. The price for it will be about 250 rubles per 1 piece.
	The guide profile is wound around the perimeter of the room, as well as at all node connections of the boxes and subsequent levels. Serves as the basis for leveling the plane in space. More details as we describe the installation. Advice! When buying a profile, remember it a little in your hands; if it is pliable, like foil, then it is better to refuse the purchase, even despite the reasonable price. Give preference to hard options, it is better if they are profiles from Knauf. Of course, they are twice as expensive, but you will also need less of them, about one and a half times.
	This is the main profile that takes on the entire load from the weight of the ceiling. Its dimensions are made in such a way that it is possible to join it with the guide profile, and it is convenient to screw it into it. Attention! Take all profiles from the same manufacturer, as they may differ in size, which will greatly complicate installation.
	In common parlance - “crab”. The purpose can be understood from the name - it is used for perpendicular joining of load-bearing profiles on the same plane.
	This part is used to fix the entire structure to the load-bearing floor. It has a blade length of 12 centimeters. For large distances, you can purchase spring hangers or make your own corners from a guide profile.
	With the help of these kids, the frame parts are connected to each other.
	To screw plasterboard sheets to the frame, hardened self-tapping screws 25 mm long with a small thread pitch are used.
	To attach the frame to the walls and ceiling, if they are not wooden, these are the anchors used. Plastic dowel screws are not suitable for these purposes, as they do not meet fire safety requirements.

We will not list finishing materials. Now we are interested in installation.

Quantity of materials

Now let's figure out how to correctly count materials for the ceiling. Let's say we need to sew up a room 3 by 4.5 meters.

Let's start by calculating the area of the room: 3 * 4.5 = 13.5 m². Standard Sheet plasterboard (1.2 x 2.5 meters) has an area of exactly 3 square meters. From here we can estimate that we will need 5 sheets per level.
Given the size of the room, it will be convenient for us to place the sheets crosswise - there will be two whole sheets wide and one cut in half lengthwise. We will have 50 centimeter cuts from two sheets, and a piece of 50x60 centimeters from the last one. If necessary, they can be used somewhere.
Next, we calculate the number of profiles. Let's take the most common length of three meters as a basis, but if you purchase another option, then change your calculations proportionally.
We calculate the perimeter of the room: 3+3+4.5+4.5 = 15 meters. Divide by the length of the profile: 15/3 = 5 pieces. In total, five guide profiles for a single-level ceiling.
Now we determine the number of main profiles 27x60. This value depends on the size of the cells you will make. Why might they be different? When installing cardboard with dimensions of 1.2 by 2.5 meters, the cells will be 60x50 cm, since these values are multiples of the sides of the cardboard (if desired, they can be proportionally reduced). If the sheet is 3 meters long, then the cells will already be 60x60 cm. If you purchased quality profile, then cells 50x120 cm or 60x120 cm are sufficient.
We go with the standard solution. Since our sheets will run along the room, we divide 450 by 50, and 300 by 60. In total, we get 9 and 5 cells, respectively. If you transfer all this in the form of a drawing onto paper, you will see that there will be 7 belts on the long wall, and 4 on the short wall. We know the lengths of each belt, and it is clear that when installed in length from 4 belts there will be about 1.5 meters of cuttings - we will also use them.
So, we calculate: 450 * 4 = 1800 cm, that is, 18 meters or 8 pieces for long belts, remove from them - 150 * 4 = 600 centimeters of scraps. Why eight, because we will install 2 profiles per belt with trimming one of them.
Now let’s look at how many profiles are needed for the lintels: 300 * 7 = 2100 cm. Since we will cut the lintels into 50 cm pieces, the previous leftovers will come in handy here: 2100 – 600 = 1500 cm – 5 pieces. In total, 8 + 5 = 13 profiles will be needed for the entire ceiling. Let's check 1800 + 2100 = 3900, 3900/300 = 13. Everything is accurate!

Advice! Sometimes it is very difficult to immediately calculate how much residue there will be, and whether it will be possible to use it somewhere. Therefore, if you have doubts about the calculations, you can take several profiles in reserve and negotiate with the seller about the possibility of returning the remaining balances.

The first ones are located at the crosshairs of the belts - it’s very easy to count them. We know that our short belt will be crossed by 4 long ones - this means that there will be 4 connectors on it. We have 7 such belts - 7*4 = 28 “crabs”. Again, take with a small margin, in case you accidentally bend something.
Suspensions are placed only on the main belts, at a distance of 110 centimeters from each other. If your profiles are flimsy, then the indentation can be reduced to the required minimum. We recommend installing 3 hangers per 3 meters of profile. Total 5 pieces for the entire belt, and 20 for the entire structure.
You can also count the screws, but it’s easier to just buy one package at a time and not have to worry about it.
Anchors are installed on the profile guides every 50 centimeters, plus count 2 pieces for each suspension.

Installation of single and multi-level structures

Having purchased everything necessary tools, you can begin installing the plasterboard ceiling structure.

Assembling a single-level frame

Let's start with the basics and look at the simplest option -. Next comes step-by-step instructions, additional photos are attached, and the video in the article will show everything in action.

We start by marking the ceiling level. If you use a laser level, then it is not at all necessary to lift it up to the ceiling, as the master did in the photo. Mark the horizontal line at the corners at an accessible height, then measure the required distance upward with a tape measure.

Advice! Don’t try to guess the horizontal line using a building level, it won’t work and the ceiling will turn out crooked.

From the marks obtained under the ceiling, we stretch the dyeing thread and break through the line. We do this on all walls.
The minimum distance from the ceiling should be 5 centimeters. If you try to reduce it, then it is quite possible that you will not be able to hide large differences or stretch the wiring.
Now we need to wind our guide profile along the lines. We apply it with the bottom edge to the line and drill it together with the wall with a hammer drill. We insert an anchor or dowel-screw (let's make a reservation - for guides, they can also be used) and drive it in tightly, making sure that the connection does not play. We move further in the same manner until we pass the entire perimeter of the room.

Advice! When attaching screws to a dowel, it often happens that the connection does not hold. To eliminate this, screw a couple of self-tapping screws into the sides of the dowel and the connection will become reliable.

Next, on the long wall, measure exactly three meters from the corner and put a mark with a marker. Do the same on the opposite wall. In this place we will get up cross profile. What is it for? If you noticed, the length of the room and the profiles do not match. To stretch the belts across the entire ceiling, you can use a profile extension, but it is much easier to do as we advise.

We set the profile according to the mark so that its near edge falls on it, and screw it on both sides with “bugs” to the guide profiles. Now our ceiling is divided into two sections, and we can install belts without extending them.
Stretch a thread along the installed profile - we will use it to align ourselves.

Attach the required number of hangers above the profile

Advice! If the length of the hangers is not enough, make these corners from the guide profile using metal scissors and a cutter.

On short walls, in one direction, place marks in increments of 60 centimeters. Do the same on our breakdown profile.
Set the profile to “crabs” according to the marks.
Take four whole profiles and install them one by one - insert one end into the guide profile along the mark, and snap the other onto the crab.
Center them according to the marks and fasten them with self-tapping screws. On the “crabs” you first need to bend the ears.

Next, cut the four remaining profiles to length and install them in the same way.
The main belts are ready - all that remains is to fix and align them. To do this, we pull the thread perpendicular to the profiles, screw on the hangers and fasten them to the screws, adjusting the height.

Advice! The remaining length of the suspension blades is bent upward.

Then we proceed to install the jumpers. To do this, you will have to cut the remaining profiles into many fragments (work with gloves so as not to cut yourself or get calluses), install the “crabs” and connect everything.
To make marking the profiles faster, use the lace again - only the profile guides are marked, and then lines are drawn along the marks.

Advice! On metal, the paint from the thread is not very visible. Therefore, it is recommended to immediately circle the resulting marks with a marker.

Next, we install all the remaining “crabs” according to the marks and install jumpers, followed by fixation. There are only 8 screws per crab - the procedure is tedious, but if you wish, you can reduce their number by half. In the future, everything will be connected with plasterboard.

This completes the assembly of the single-level ceiling frame. We will return to curly models a little later.

Plasterboard ceiling lining

So, let's hem the ceiling. The process is very simple, but it requires physical effort to lift the sheet up and hold it until you screw it along the entire perimeter - 2-3 screws are enough for the short sides, and 4-5 for the long sides.

After this, you can add a few more pieces in the middle and move on to the next sheet, or immediately perform normal fastening in increments of 15-18 centimeters along all profiles intersecting the sheet (longitudinal and transverse). The sheet is installed so that its edges coincide with the centers of the profiles to which it is attached.

The procedure is greatly simplified if you have a special lift. The sheet is placed on it and, using a simple mechanism, rises to the ceiling. This way you can work alone.

If there is no such device, then you need an assistant, or even two, so as not to suffer when you have to simultaneously lift the sheet and hold the screwdriver. A mounting belt with pockets and grips for various tools comes in handy here.

But before lifting the sheet, you need to embroider its edge, due to the fact that the short edges do not have bevels. We use a corner plane or a stationery knife. We remove the edge only in those places where there will be a joint with another sheet.

We fasten the entire row in this manner and move on to the next one. To make the ceiling stronger and not crack later, the sheets of adjacent rows must be placed staggered.

We know that the length of our room is 4.5 meters, that is, the additional sheet has a length of 2 meters, which is also a multiple of 50 centimeters. Therefore, in a particular case, it is enough to swap the long and short sheets in places, and the seam spread will be 50 centimeters.

In cases where the additional sheets are of inappropriate sizes: either more jumpers are added to the joints, or the number of inserts is increased, or the length of the sheets is somehow changed, for example, the whole sheet is centered, and short pieces are placed along the edges.

The entire ceiling is covered in this manner. Now a little about fastening and cutting sheets.

The point is clear, we use a special cue ball so as not to push the sheet too hard. However, it should be remembered that the sheet can also collapse from the end where there is no cardboard. In such places we turn the screws 1.5-2 centimeters from the edge so as not to crumble it. Long edges do not have this problem, but the minimum margin of 1 cm must also be respected.

Drywall is cut in a straight line as follows:

Place the sheet on a flat surface;
We make the necessary marks along the edges;
We apply a rule to them;
We cut through the top layer of cardboard with a stationery knife;
We place the sheet on its edge or place it on a hill to take the cut for a break;
We break it - the sheet will burst exactly along the line;
We bend it at an angle of about 70-90 degrees and cut through the second layer of cardboard.
We process the resulting edges with a rasp and, if necessary, embroider them with a plane.

If you need to make a corner cut in a sheet, cut the short side with a regular hacksaw, and the second side as described above.

To make a curved cut, use a jigsaw or a drywall saw.

Advice! When sawing drywall, a lot of dust rises into the air. Use a respirator to protect your respiratory system.

Installation of multi-level structures

In order to install curved ones, the same tools and materials are used. An exception may be cool radial shapes, which will require a designer arched plasterboard 6 mm thick. It bends perfectly without any tricks.

To increase the number of levels on the ceiling, two main techniques are used:

First, the main plane is hemmed, and then the necessary shapes are added to it layer by layer.. The disadvantages include slightly less reliability (in some places the profile is held on plasterboard, so this method is only suitable for lightweight structures) and excessive consumption of material (plasterboard fills the entire space above the levels).
First, the boxes and lower levels are assembled, and then the highest plane is hemmed. Such a ceiling will be more durable, since all its elements are connected to the load-bearing floor, and you can also install a suspended ceiling inside, or leave the old surface, saving on material. It is inconvenient to use this method when the lower levels are not adjacent to the walls.

Decide on what to choose on the spot, according to your needs.

To make a smooth bend in the guide profile, you need to cut it in increments of 3-5 centimeters. Depending on the mounting location, we cut through the side and front parts or both sides.

Then 27*60 profiles are also inserted into them, and the whole thing is pulled together with “bugs”.

If you couldn’t find arched drywall, you can bend the existing one in two ways:

We pierce it along the wrong side with a needle roller and soak it well in water. Then the cardboard is carefully placed on the stencil and fixed with clamps through wooden slats so as not to push through the wet surface. After which it dries for several days.
An easier way is to cut through the body of the drywall in places, and smooth out the resulting angularities at the puttying stage.

The second method is much simpler and does not require making stencils, so we advise you to pay attention to it.

Assembling a straight box

Now we will tell you how to quickly and efficiently assemble a straight box from plasterboard.

First of all, we mark the ceiling and walls using a tape measure, pencil and string;
Then we wind the guide profiles along the lines;
We cut the drywall into strips corresponding to the height of the box;
We screw the guide profile directly on the floor to one edge of the cardboard;
We lift the workpiece to the ceiling and fasten the other side to the ceiling guide, keeping an eye on the horizontal level;
Next, horizontal jumpers are installed, and vertical ones at the junction of two strips;
The structure is hemmed from below with plasterboard.

The box is ready!

If you want to make a niche for lighting LED strip, then the design of the box will be different.

Assembly also begins with guide profiles. Next, blanks are made from a PP profile, as in the photo above - the lower part of the profile protrudes beyond the boundaries of the box. Then a guide profile is put on them from the end, to which a small strip of drywall will be attached.

To increase the size of such a strip, the end profile can be supplemented with another one by pairing them together.

You need to arrange the profiles as in the photo above, and then fasten them together with self-tapping screws. A huge advantage of this design is that the profile serves as a good heat sink for the tape, even of high power, which will have a positive effect on its service life, and the directed light into the inner wall will be beautifully scattered.

Miracles on turns

In conclusion, we would like to present you with a small photo selection of ceilings that, if desired, you can make yourself.

The original ceiling with many niches is a real designer find. There is nothing complicated in the execution of such a design, however, due to the abundance of parts, assembly will take a lot of time.

In front of you simplest design, which looks very attractive. Keep it up!

This solution may be too much for a beginner, since it will be necessary to accurately mark the ceiling.

The distance between levels, if the height of the room allows, can be made larger.

Another option for an interesting and easy-to-execute figure on a multi-level ceiling.

This is where we will end our lengthy story. Now you know how to make plasterboard ceiling structures.

You could see that it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough to strictly follow the installation technology and take on only real projects if you do not have enough experience. That's all! All the best!

Installing a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard is a very responsible job, which in most cases is best left to specialists. But if you are confident in your abilities, but do not know how to make a plasterboard structure on the ceiling with your own hands, our article is for you.

Preparation for installation

So, ceiling structures made of plasterboard are installed in a room with plastered and putty walls after finishing putty.

Tools and materials

To build a suspended ceiling you will need:

plasterboard sheets thickness 9.5-12.5 mm; the volume of material is determined based on the complexity of the composition and the number of levels; it is also necessary to provide a slight excess (1-2 sheets);
guide profile(UD);
ceiling profile(CD);
profile extensions;
special connectors– single-level and two-level;
pendants– straight and anchor (with wire traction);
dowel-nails– will be needed to connect the guide profile to the wall and attach direct hangers;
wedge anchor– will be used as fasteners for direct and anchor suspensions;
self-tapping screws size 3.5 x 11 mm;
self-tapping screws measuring 3.5 x 25 mm - for a single-level suspended ceiling, but if the structure is multi-level, purchase longer self-tapping screws;
reinforcing paper to strengthen joints;
putty(for example, Uniflot).

Construction tools for working with drywall:

hydraulic level (spirit level) 2 m long or laser level;
rule 2 m long;
tape measure 5 m long;
perforator;
screwdriver;
cutters, through which holes will be cut in sheets of drywall for lamps;
plane - for processing the cut edges of plasterboard sheets;
spatulas - for creating chamfers;
construction knife;
square;
grater and sanding mesh - for processing putty areas.

Advice! For high-quality execution For a suspended ceiling, it is also advisable to have at least a little experience working with plasterboard structures and a sufficient supply of patience.

Marking and construction of the frame

Ceiling marking and construction frame system performed in accordance with the following rules:

To install the entire structure, you must first mark zero level. A laser or hydro level will help you with this.
Along the entire perimeter of the room, markings are applied to the walls - a perfectly straight, continuous line along which the guide profile (UD) will be attached.
The profiles are connected end-to-end; inserting one profile into another is prohibited.
In order for the plasterboard structure to be of high quality, a distance of 600 mm is provided between the load-bearing profiles, because the plasterboard is attached to them in such a way that the joint of the sheets is in the middle of the profile. It is also necessary to note the distance from the walls to the first and last profiles - 100-150 mm.
The supporting profiles must be in the same plane as the guides, which is checked by a two-meter building level. The profiles are attached to the ceiling with anchors and direct hangers.

It is important that the joining of adjacent plasterboard sheets does not occur along the same line, so they are secured in a checkerboard pattern, and jumpers (sections of the ceiling profile) are secured between the load-bearing profiles. Such jumpers are mounted throughout the ceiling in increments of 500 mm. The sheets of drywall are joined exactly in the middle of the jumpers.
To fasten the jumpers and the supporting profile together, it is advisable to use “crabs” (single-level connectors), which are connected to the jumpers and supporting profiles with self-tapping screws with parameters of 3.5 x 11 mm.

As a result of the described activities, a base (frame) is obtained future design plasterboard ceiling. The drywall will be attached to it with 3.5 x 25 mm self-tapping screws.

Attaching drywall to the frame

When fastening, the interval between the screws should be no more than 25-30 mm. In this case, screwing is carried out perpendicular to the ceiling with a slight “recession” of the heads of the screws in the sheet, but without violating the integrity of the cardboard layer.

When all the plasterboard sheets are attached to the profiles, the joints and connections with the walls are glued with reinforcing paper (mesh) and puttied.

Advantages of plasterboard ceilings

The design of plasterboard on the ceiling has a number of advantages: it has high aesthetic characteristics, improves the level of lighting in the room, and increases sound insulation. Into the space formed by the old ceiling and suspended structure, various engineering communications can be placed - electrical cable, low-current and computer wired networks, ventilation, heating equipment, etc.

In general, a suspended ceiling can withstand a greater load, the smaller the distance between the suspensions and the guide profiles.

Advice! When purchasing fasteners and profiles for a suspended ceiling, pay attention to the manufacturers’ descriptions of the products. Here you will find their main characteristics and be able to determine whether the structure will withstand the weight of the communications that you are planning to “hide” in the ceiling structure.

Now you know how to make a single-level suspended ceiling. If you want to design a second or more backlit levels, thereby adding sophistication and uniqueness to the design, draw a sketch of the future configuration on paper, and then duplicate it on the ceiling. detailed instructions described in the article How to make a circle of plasterboard on the ceiling, secret knowledge.

Smooth curved lines can be made using a ceiling or wall guide profile. Their side shelves are cut in increments of 3-5 cm and bent according to the design. Then 9.5 mm thick sheets of plasterboard are attached to the frame of the first and second levels using long self-tapping screws.

Drywall has been a fairly popular material in construction and renovation for many years. Walls, niches, arches, ceilings and, of course, ceilings are erected from it. Sheets of plasterboard in the hands of a master can easily turn into a reliable, durable and at the same time stylish, beautiful and original ceiling structure. In addition, single-level or multi-level ceiling quite a lot, it all depends on individual preferences and proper installation.

Finishing with plasterboard allows you to decorate ceiling surfaces in almost any style. The shape of the lines, the presence of individual blocks, figured elements - all these elements are determined by the design sketch. However, there is a fundamental base part, which consists of three types of ceiling structures, namely:

Single-level plasterboard ceiling

A ceiling surface of this type can simultaneously act as ready-made design, and serve as a basis for the construction of a more complex ceiling. The construction principle is quite simple. Initially, a metal frame is attached, then, if necessary, electric installation work, then - the covering of the gypsum board frame, and the final stage will be the final finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering, etc.)

Single-level ceilings have a number of advantages, including:

the ceiling surface, lined with plasterboard in one level, does not lose its original appearance even with the general movement of the foundation;
when making a single-level ceiling, the space between the rough and front surfaces is significantly saved;
high degree of surface leveling, good way hide all irregularities and defects of the original ceiling;
excellent heat and sound insulation;
ease of installation and subsequent maintenance.

Two- or three-level ceilings

They are built on the basis of a single-level ceiling surface. The basic principle is that the lower the level of plasterboard sheets, the smaller their total area, while the installation of each next level occurs on the basis of the previous one. All levels must be combined with each other not only from a technical point of view, but also from an aesthetic point of view, without causing visual discomfort.

The main types of multi-level ceilings are: frame, diagonal and zonal.

Complex ceiling structures

Outwardly, they are quite similar to multi-level structures, but their structure is more complex, as it can include figured and patterned elements. In particular, figured ceilings predominantly have individual or group convex elements. The abstract appearance of a complex plasterboard ceiling implies the presence of spiral structures, and very often with finishing different colors are used. A “floating ceiling” involves installation using fittings and metal pins, as well as specially planned lighting to create an airy volume.

Plasterboard structures on the ceiling

Decorating the ceiling surface using plasterboard is a fairly variable method, but does not require any special technological difficulties. Even a novice craftsman can independently build both a single-level and a complex plasterboard ceiling structure; he just needs to purchase the necessary material, the appropriate “toolkit” and remember the basic technological provisions.

Required Tools

In order for the installation of plasterboard to proceed without any problems, the master must take care of such tools as:

Necessary materials

In addition to the main component element - plasterboard sheets, you will need ceiling, guides and load-bearing metal profiles, direct suspension, sealing tape, connectors, profile crabs, dowels and screws.

Marking and surface preparation

In order for the future plasterboard ceiling to be smooth, without distortions and deviations from the planned sketch, before the immediate start of installation, it is necessary to make preliminary markings of the ceiling surface.

The main purpose of such marking is to draw a common horizontal line along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling to further obtain a flat ceiling surface. A secondary task will be the additional application of parallels on the concrete or wooden base itself. It is along these lines that the supporting profile will be attached.

As a rule, the general horizontal is located below the ceiling surface at a level of 8 to 15 cm. This value depends on the evenness of the rough ceiling, as well as on the complexity of the degree of concentration of communications that will be located in the space between the concrete (wooden) surface and the plasterboard sheets.

In drawing parallel lines on rough ceiling a certain step between them must be observed. Its recommended size is 50-60 cm. It is also worth carefully observing the parallelism of the drawn lines not only among themselves, but also relative to the line of the walls.

If the area of the room being repaired is small, then to control the correct application of the appropriate markings, you can use either a water level or an ordinary building level. However, if the ceiling surface area is quite large, then it is more advisable to use a non-leveler or laser level.

Features of frame construction

Construction frame structure must be made taking into account many technological requirements so that the future ceiling is not only smooth and beautiful, but also durable and safe. To do this, you should only follow a certain list of professional recommendations.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is simple, does not require special knowledge and skills, you just need to remember the basic provisions.

When constructing ceiling structures from plasterboard, the latter very often has to be cut due to the specific area of the room or the design nuances of the sketch itself. In order to cut gypsum boards correctly and without unnecessary damage, several general rules should be followed:

Simple installation, a minimal “tool” and “material” set, simple maintenance and a relatively low cost have made ceiling structures quite popular for finishing for many years. ceiling surfaces premises for any purpose.

There are no similar posts, but there are more interesting ones.

With the invention of such building materials as drywall, significant changes occurred in interior design. Creating suspended ceilings is not particularly difficult if you know the main points and procedure.

Tools and materials

Once the base ceiling has been prepared (plastered and puttied) and the necessary tools and building materials are available, you can begin to create a suspended structure from gypsum plasterboard.

The tools necessary to carry out work on creating a ceiling system include:

tape measure 5 meters long;

two-meter building level, preferably a laser level or spirit level;

rule 2 meters long;

screwdriver and hammer drill;

cutters;

plane;

square, construction knife and spatulas;

grinding mesh and grater.

Before starting work, you must purchase the required quantity:

plasterboard sheets (GKL);

profile UD (guide) and CD (ceiling);

two types of suspensions - anchor and straight;

wedge anchor;

profile extensions;

single-level and two-level connectors;

dowel-nails;

self-tapping screws measuring 3.5 x 11 millimeters and 3.5 x 25 millimeters;

reinforcing paper;

putty.

Note: if the system is multi-level, longer screws will be required.

Marking and creating a frame

Marking the ceiling and creating a suspended frame structure should be carried out in compliance with certain rules.

1. First of all, it is necessary to use a building level (laser or water level) to mark the lowest point on the base floor and step back from the mark by a distance depending on what kind of structure is planned.

2. Markings are applied to the walls along the perimeter of the room, which is a straight continuous line, which will become a guide for attaching the UD profile. The connection of adjacent planks is done end-to-end.

3. To create a reliable frame, the distance between the two load-bearing profiles is no more than 600 millimeters, since the plasterboard sheets are attached in such a way that they are joined in the middle of the planks. The gap between the walls and the outer profiles should be approximately 15 centimeters.

4. It is necessary that the load-bearing and guide profiles are strictly in the same plane - this is controlled by the building level. The profile strips are attached to the ceiling with anchors and direct hangers.

5. One of the important points when joining two adjacent sheets of drywall is that this cannot be done along the same line - it is necessary to maintain a checkerboard pattern. In this case, jumpers are installed between the supporting profiles, which are sections of SD profile strips; they are mounted along the entire frame of the ceiling structure in increments of 50 centimeters. The design of the gypsum board ceiling provides that they are joined in the middle of the lintels.

6. To fasten the jumpers and the supporting profile, it is customary to use single-level connectors, called “crabs” - they are installed using self-tapping screws measuring 3.5 by 11 millimeters. The result is the basis of the future ceiling system. Sheets of finishing material are attached to it with self-tapping screws measuring 3.5 by 25 millimeters.

7. To give the interior individuality and sophistication, a number of levels are built in the plasterboard structure. Before this, a sketch is created according to which the configuration is displayed on the base ceiling. Curved lines are created using a guide profile; its side flanges are cut every 3-5 centimeters and bent. 9.5 mm plasterboard sheets are attached to the multi-level frame using long self-tapping screws.

Installation of plasterboard sheets on the frame

During installation, the interval between two screws should not exceed 300 millimeters; screwing is performed perpendicular to the base of the ceiling with a slight immersion of the heads of the self-tapping screws into the sheet of drywall, but without damaging the integrity of the surface layer.

Experts say that cracks often appear. To prevent this, they recommend attaching another layer on top of the first layer. The main condition: the joints between the first and second layers of plasterboard sheets should not coincide. After completing the work of attaching the material to the SD profile strips, the joints and connections with the walls of the room are glued with reinforcing mesh (paper) and puttied.

Plasterboard construction for stretch ceiling

A traditional stretch ceiling attached to the walls of the room does not look as impressive as if you install the canvas on a pre-mounted one. Plasterboard construction under a suspended ceiling allows you to embody the original design solution(more details: " "). In this case, the distance from the box to the ceiling can be determined at your own discretion, depending on the curvature of the ceiling and its height. Usually it is about 10 centimeters. with backlight will allow you to enjoy the muted soft, decorative lighting from spotlights, mounted in drywall.

Creating Lighting

A lot has been said about the advantages of hanging systems made from such finishing material as gypsum plasterboard. It should be noted their excellent appearance, which is confirmed by the available images of plasterboard structures on the ceiling in the photo. Other advantages include increased sound insulation and improving the level of room illumination. When creating a frame, free space appears between the ceiling and the suspended structure where you can place utilities - water supply pipes, a ventilation system, electrical wiring, etc.

The design of a plasterboard ceiling with lighting has its own characteristics. When attaching various equipment to it, it is necessary to create special supports in order to shift the main load from the suspension system to the base floor. The ceiling structure, created using plasterboard sheets, can support the weight lighting fixtures, which is no more than 3 kilograms, however, experts still recommend mounting the spots to load-bearing profiles. Such suspension system is able to withstand the more significant load, the smaller the gap between the UD guide profiles and suspensions.

To make the design reliable, when purchasing a profile and fasteners to create a frame, you should pay attention to the product description by the manufacturer. It contains information regarding their parameters, according to which you can determine how capable the suspension system is to withstand the weight of all communications that are planned to be hidden.

19077 0 5

Self-installation plasterboard on the ceiling - 7 stages of making a ceiling covering

Among existing options When arranging a finished ceiling covering, one of the most popular methods is to cover the main ceiling with plasterboard sheets. At first glance, installing a plasterboard ceiling may seem difficult to do yourself. From my own observations, I can say that with a competent approach, two people can cope with such a task, even without practical skills and experience working with this material.

The use of plasterboard for finishing the ceiling

Gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL) is a rigid sheet finishing material, which is intended for the manufacture of interior partitions, as well as for the rough surface of ceilings, walls, windows and doorways, and other elements building structures inside the building.

In other words, it is also called “gypsum plaster” or “dry plaster”. Each sheet of this material consists of two outer layers of thin but dense cardboard, between which there is a uniform solid layer of hardened gypsum mortar.

In order not to go into technical details, I will talk about the main features of the application sheet plasterboard For finishing ceilings:

Drywall sheets have a smooth, uniform matte surface, which in itself is an ideal basis for applying finishing materials (cladding tiles, interior paint, wallpaper, etc.);

Compared to others building materials(brick, monolithic concrete, aerated concrete), the price of plasterboard is significantly lower, and it also has a much smaller specific gravity, therefore it is considered the most suitable material for interior construction;
Plaster mineral base does not burn on its own and does not support combustion, and all components for the production of drywall are made from non-toxic environmentally friendly raw materials, so it is safe to use for interior decoration living and sleeping quarters;
Due to the composite sheet structure, drywall has sufficient rigidity, and at the same time some flexibility and elasticity. These qualities make it possible to use it both for leveling rectilinear surfaces with a large area, and for covering complex interior parts with a curved configuration (decorative bay windows, cornices, counter-laced ceiling lighting, etc.);

Drywall sheets can be hemmed at a considerable distance from the main ceiling. This makes it possible to carry out hidden installation of electrical cables, ventilation pipes and other communications in the free space behind the decorative suspended ceiling;
The filing of ceiling sheets must be carried out on a supporting metal frame, which itself has a certain thickness. After installing plasterboard, the finished ceiling in the room becomes lower by at least 50 mm, so this method is not suitable for finishing rooms with an initially low level of the main ceiling (less than 2500 mm).
Mineral gypsum base and the outer layer of cardboard strongly absorb moisture, and when wet, they lose their strength and collapse over time. For this reason, I do not recommend using this material for finishing damp rooms with constant high humidity(sauna, bathroom or shower room).

Cardboard for the outer layers of gypsum plasterboard is made from natural cellulose raw materials, therefore, in conditions of low temperature, high humidity, and insufficient fresh air flow, an ideal nutrient medium for development and growth is created on its surface mold. To prevent mold from appearing, you need to ensure optimal temperature conditions operation and high-quality ventilation interceiling space.

Stage 1: calculation of the quantity of materials

As for the purchase of materials, there should be no problems with this at all, since all components for installing drywall can currently be purchased at any construction hypermarket.

Plasterboard sheets can have a thickness of 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm. Sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm have less weight, so they are more preferable to use for finishing ceilings Required quantity sheets are determined based on the total ceiling area, plus 5% of the margin;
A galvanized metal profile of the “UD” brand with a cross-section of 28x27 mm is designed for attaching plasterboard sheets to the wall along the perimeter of the room. Accordingly, its total length should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the room plus 5%;

A galvanized metal profile of the “CD” brand with a cross-section of 60x27 mm is often called a ceiling profile, because it is designed for attaching sheets of plasterboard to the ceiling. Its total length should be calculated based on the fact that the guides ceiling profiles should be evenly distributed over the entire ceiling area, with a step of 600 mm between them. You also need to add 5% of the length to trim this profile;
In cases where it is necessary to leave some space between the main and suspended ceilings, special fasteners are used to install the ceiling profile, which can be of two types:

Straight U-shaped remote hanger used if the distance between the main and suspended ceiling is no more than 120 mm;
Spring wire hangers allow you to lower the suspended ceiling relative to the main one by a distance of 120 to 1000 mm.

The number of remote hangers must be selected so that they can be installed over the entire ceiling area, with a step of no more than 1000 mm between them in the longitudinal and transverse directions;
To splice the guide profiles together along the length, you will need metal connectors, and to connect two perpendicular profiles in the same plane, you will need special crabs. The number of crabs is calculated by the formula: total length of the ceiling profile / 0.6;

Attaching the metal frame to concrete ceiling should be done using galvanized self-tapping screws and plastic dowels 6x60 mm. For attaching sheets to metal frame phosphated self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm should be used;
To putty the joints between the sheets and seal the fastening points, you will need a reinforcing fiberglass mesh and finishing acrylic putty for drywall.

To make suspended ceilings in the kitchen or bathroom, I recommend using moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets. They have the nomenclature designation GKLV, and are distinguished by the green color of the outer layer of cardboard and the blue color of the letter factory marking.

Stage 2: choosing tools

Installing drywall on the ceiling does not require any special equipment, so when performing finishing work, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To attach the supporting frame profiles to the main concrete ceiling, you will need an electric hammer drill with a set of drills, or, in extreme cases, a powerful impact drill;
You will need to tighten it during operation. a large number of self-tapping screws, so I recommend using a cordless screwdriver for these purposes;

To cut metal profiles to the required size, you can use a grinder with a metal cutting disc, hand saw for metal, or metal scissors;
It is convenient to cut sheets of drywall in a straight line with a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades;
If you need to make a curly cut along a radius or curved line, you can use an electric jigsaw with a wood or metal file;

From hand tools you will need a square, a tape measure, a building level, a hydraulic or laser level, a plumb line, a hammer cord, a medium hammer and a plane for trimming the cut edges of the sheets;
For the final finishing, you will need two metal spatulas with a blade width of 40-60 mm and 80-120 mm, as well as a set of sandpaper with a grain size from P80 to P150.

Installation work on finishing the ceiling with plasterboard can be done with two stepladders, but it is more convenient to use an old unnecessary table for this. If the household does not have such a table, you can build two small platforms from boards or bars of such a height that a half-bent arm standing man freely reached the ceiling.

Stage 3: preparatory work and marking

Before execution installation work, you need to completely vacate the room, remove all the furniture from the room, and dismantle the old ceiling covering ( foam tiles, stretch ceiling etc.). If there is wallpaper on the main ceiling that holds up normally and does not fall off on its own, then it is not necessary to dismantle it.

Before starting work, you need to carry out installation and installation engineering communications (electrical cables, ventilation pipes, cassette air conditioner, etc.), which should be hidden behind the suspended ceiling.

In order to mount plasterboard sheets on the ceiling strictly horizontally, appropriate markings must be applied along the perimeter of the walls;

Solid ceilings in residential buildings are not always level, so when applying markings to the walls, I do not recommend starting from the main ceiling;
To draw horizontal lines, it is most convenient to use a laser level. It must be fixed at a given height, and along the line laser beam apply horizontal markings to each wall;
A laser level is quite expensive, so if you don’t have one, then for these purposes you can use a hydraulic level, which works on the principle of communicating vessels;
In an arbitrary place on any wall, you must place a horizontal mark 10 mm above the level at which the finishing ceiling should be mounted;

After this, one person must apply one of the transparent tubes of the hydraulic level to this place, and align the liquid level in the tube with the mark on the wall;
The second person, moving the stepladder, must place horizontal marks opposite the liquid level in the second tube, on each wall in two places, in each corner of the room;
After this, all the marks on the walls need to be connected to each other by a straight horizontal line, which will serve as the lower boundary of the installation of the wall guide profile for drywall. It is more convenient to draw a long horizontal line not under a ruler, but to beat it with chalk using a stretched construction cord;
To make it more convenient to install the ceiling profile, in addition to marking the walls, I also recommend applying marking control lines to the ceiling;

To do this, on the ceiling, parallel to the long walls, you need to draw an axial line, which should divide the room into two equal parts;
From the center line, in each direction to the long side walls, set aside an equal number of segments 600 mm long, and connect them with parallel lines. The last sections, which will be closer to the wall, can be of any arbitrary length, but not more than 600 mm;
The same needs to be done between short walls: draw a short center line, put marks from it in each direction at intervals of 600 mm, and connect them with straight lines. The end result should be a checkered ceiling, with a side length of each square along the axes of 600 mm.

It is easy to make a hydraulic level with your own hands from two transparent tubes 200-300 mm long, 8-12 mm in diameter, and a piece of flexible rubber or silicone hose of the same diameter, 5-8 meters long. Approximately in the middle of each tube, you need to put two marks and connect them together with a rubber hose, after which, from mark to mark, fill the entire system with ordinary water.

Stage 4: assembly and installation of the supporting frame

After applying the markings, the “UD” guide profile can be attached to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to use self-tapping screws with 6x60 mm plastic dowels, installing them at a distance of 400-600 mm between them.

If the ceiling in the room is fairly flat and you are not planning on concealed installation of communications, the ceiling guide profile can be attached directly to the ceiling. Otherwise, to attach it you need to use one of two types of remote hangers. As an example, I will talk about how to properly attach a profile to the ceiling using perforated U-shaped remote hangers.

First of all, using the same self-tapping screws and plastic dowels, you need to secure all remote U-shaped suspensions made of perforated metal strip to the ceiling;

To do this, we will need markings in the form of squares on the ceiling. Along the entire length of each straight marking line, it is necessary to secure such a number of hangers so that the distance between them is about 1000 mm;
After this, you need to install longitudinal ceiling profiles. To do this, one whip of the “CD” profile must be inserted into the U-shaped hangers and temporarily fixed with a long nail or hairpin;
Next, insert its end inside the wall profile and secure it with two self-tapping screws. After this, the ceiling profile must be set strictly horizontally in level, and also secured to the legs of each suspension using self-tapping screws;

If the length of one whip is not enough, then it can be extended with the same profile. After it is attached to all the remote hangers, its free end must be inserted into the wall profile of the opposite wall, and also secured with two self-tapping screws;
Thus, it is necessary to secure all longitudinal ceiling profiles. During installation, you need to ensure that the distance between the center lines of each profile is exactly 600 mm, with a permissible error of no more than 10 mm in each direction.

After this, you need to install transverse jumpers. They are mounted in exactly the same way, at a distance of 600 mm from each other, and are also attached to the wall profile and to U-shaped suspensions;
The only difference is that all internal jumpers are attached to the longitudinal profiles using crabs. This installation technology allows you to connect two profiles to each other at right angles in the same horizontal plane.

To prevent the supporting frame from sagging in the central part of the ceiling, I recommend installing temporary control diagonals. To do this, you need to insert one self-tapping screw into the wall guide profile in each corner of the room, and then tie it to them, and pull a thin nylon thread tightly along the diagonals of the room.

Stage 5: filing drywall sheets

When the supporting frame is completely assembled and mounted on the ceiling, I recommend checking its geometric dimensions again and making sure that it is positioned strictly horizontally. After this, you can begin directly attaching the drywall to the ceiling.

Each sheet of gypsum board with a thickness of 9.5 mm can have dimensions of 1200x2500 mm or 1200x3000 mm, and the weight of the sheets is 22 or 27 kg, respectively. For this reason, such work must be done by at least two people.

Installation of sheets should begin from the longitudinal center line, and each sheet should be located parallel to the long wall;

Before attaching the plasterboard to the ceiling, the first sheet must be attached from below to the supporting frame so that its short side does not reach the short wall by 2 mm, and its long edge runs exactly in the middle of the central axial profile;
Having installed the first sheet in the desired position, one person should hold it from below and press it with their hands against the metal frame, and the second person, meanwhile, should fix it to the profile with self-tapping screws;
Self-tapping screws must be tightened evenly along the entire perimeter of the sheet, in increments of 150-200 mm, and they must be fastened not only into the longitudinal guides, but also into the transverse jumpers. The self-tapping screw must be screwed in with such force that the head is recessed into the plasterboard board by approximately 1 mm;

The second sheet must also be pressed against the supporting frame, and its short side must be rested against the short edge of the first sheet. Thus, first of all, you need to secure one row of sheets on one side of the center line;
It is advisable that the joints of the sheets in the first and second rows are not located opposite each other. In most cases, the last sheet of the first row will have to be cut to length. To ensure that the sheets are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, it is better to start attaching the second row on the opposite side of the room;

All other sheets of plasterboard must be secured in a similar manner, and it is important to ensure that they do not reach the walls by 2 mm along the entire perimeter, and their joints fall exactly in the middle of the longitudinal ceiling profile;
Before attaching the outer sheets along long walls, they will need to be cut to width. When trimming and attaching the edge sheets, you must keep in mind that the cut end should be located closer to the wall, and the factory edge with a notch on the edge should be close to the adjacent sheet.

So that the assistant does not have to hold each sheet with his hands, I advise making one or two wooden supports for the drywall. Each support is a T-shaped structure made of 50x50 mm wooden blocks, made in the form of a mop. The upper horizontal bar of such a “mop” should have a length of 600-800 mm, and the lower supporting leg should rest against the floor, and should not reach the supporting frame by 10-12 mm in height.

Stage 6: rough finishing work

After all sheets of drywall have been installed, even professional master, there will be small gaps and cracks between them, and the entire surface of the ceiling will be covered with black heads from self-tapping screws. In order to give it a finished appearance and prepare it for painting or wallpapering, a rough finish is performed at the final stage of installing the suspended ceiling.

I recommend using ready-made acrylic-based finishing putty for this.

Puttying the ceiling is usually performed in two stages. First you need to putty the whole visible fastener, screw caps, longitudinal and transverse joints between sheets, as well as other large irregularities and surface defects;

The long edges of plasterboard sheets are usually chamfered or a shallow notch is made. In order to prevent the seams from cracking over time, during the filling process, a reinforcing glass mesh, which is popularly called “serpyanka”, must be placed in this recess;
When the first layer of putty has completely hardened, it must be sanded with medium-grit sandpaper (P80-P100).
For gluing thick wallpaper on a thick vinyl or fiberglass base, such surface preparation will be sufficient;

If you plan to paint the interior ceiling acrylic paint, I recommend applying another thin layer finishing putty, and after it dries, sand the entire surface with fine sandpaper with a grit of P100-P150;
To finish everything off, you need to remove fine dust from the putty with a damp cloth or a soft wide brush, and apply one or two layers of penetrating primer for interior work over the entire ceiling area.

To sand the surface after puttying, I recommend using an electric vibratory sander with replaceable perforated velcro sanding discs. If you don’t have such a machine, then to evenly remove the excess layer of putty, you can use a manual plastic holder with spring clips for rolled sandpaper.

Stage 7: installation of the ceiling light

In any enclosed space, even in the presence of natural light, installation is required ceiling lamps or chandeliers. As you know, plasterboard ceiling sheets have a small thickness (9.5 mm), and therefore are not able to withstand significant weight loads. Modern household chandeliers can have a fairly wide range in size and weight. If a light small ceiling lamp can be fixed directly to plasterboard or a metal profile, then this method will not work for a massive heavy chandelier.

For those who do not know how to attach a chandelier to a suspended plasterboard ceiling, I can suggest two simple but very reliable methods:

The first of them is that when installing a metal supporting frame, you need to provide in advance for the installation of an embedded platform made of thick plywood. This method can be used to attach any ceiling lamps weighing up to 20 kg;

In those places where the project provides for the installation of lamps or chandeliers, a round or square plywood platform measuring 250x250 mm and at least 20 mm thick must be attached to the main concrete ceiling;
After finishing the ceiling, the lamp can be screwed to the plywood through the plasterboard using ordinary wood screws measuring 4.5x50 mm;
If the chandelier is to hang on a hook, then a mounting hook with a large screw thread, which is designed for screwing into plastic dowels, must be screwed into the board.

The second method involves mounting the chandelier directly into the thickness of the concrete slab of the main ceiling, therefore it allows you to mount even very heavy and bulky lamps.

In the event that the ceiling space is more than 200 mm high, I recommend preparing the mounting point for the chandelier in advance, before installing the plasterboard sheets;
If the space between the main and suspended ceiling is less than 200 mm, then the hook for attaching the chandelier can be installed after finishing the finishing;
To do this, you first need to cut a hole with a diameter of 50 mm in the drywall, and then using a hammer drill with a 10 mm drill, drill a hole in the center in concrete slab to a depth of at least 80 mm;
On a long eye bolt or threaded rod with a hook with a diameter of 8 mm, you need to screw the MSA10 expansion anchor by hand.
Then insert and lightly hammer it into the hole in the concrete slab, and screw the eye bolt into the threaded anchor until a characteristic metal creaking sound appears;
This method is also good because it allows you to hide long wires behind a plasterboard ceiling.

To secure a lightweight lamp or chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling, you can use a folding spring anchor. To do this, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in the drywall, squeeze the spring-loaded legs of the anchor with your fingers, and push it into the hole. After the paws open under the action of the spring plasterboard sheet, you need to tighten the clamping nut from the outside.

Conclusion

If according to technical project, interior design involves the manufacture of a multi-level ceiling, all work must be performed in the same sequence. The difference is that you first need to install a continuous plasterboard covering over the entire ceiling area, and then proceed to install and sew additional decorative levels and cornices for counter-laced lighting.

You can watch all the visual information about installing plasterboard on ceilings in the attached video in this article, and if you have questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.

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