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How to assemble multilevel plasterboard ceilings. How to make a two-level backlit plasterboard ceiling

In the process of renovation, choosing a design for any room, be sure to think about what the ceiling will be. The interior of the ceiling can be anything, as well as the material from which you can realize your ideas. But the most successful and optimal is drywall. It can be used to equip a complex ceiling, consisting of several levels.

Designers are especially pleased with the ceilings made of hl, which allow them to create unique masterpieces. Multilevel plasterboard ceilings are equipped with any design. It can be an arched shape, a variety of awnings or symmetrical elements. Many options are available online and are easy to use. Or you can show your imagination and design your own design.

Features of installation of the structure

A positive characteristic of drywall is the ease of working with it. This allows you to equip ceilings of any complexity from plasterboard. Even for beginners, this won't be a big problem. There is a great field for experimentation here. But, nevertheless, the device of multi-level plasterboard ceilings with your own hands requires the study of some of the features of their installation:

  1. The basis of a plasterboard suspended ceiling is a frame... It is equipped with galvanized metal profiles. The peculiarity of arranging the frame is that when installing a multi-tiered ceiling, it is necessary to use a very large number of parts that are placed at different heights.
  2. The next step is to cover the frame with plasterboard elements.... They are cut and adjusted to the appropriate dimensions. These can be segments of different geometric shapes or strips for sheathing curved surfaces.
  3. The final step is to putty the plasterboard surface of the ceiling and finish it.

Purchase of materials

For the installation of multi-level plasterboard ceilings, first of all, you should decide on the materials. You must first calculate the required amount. For work you will need:

  • drywall... When purchasing gypsum sheets, it is necessary to take into account the area of ​​the room and the number of ceiling levels to be arranged;
  • metal profile for false ceiling... With its help, the frame for the false ceiling is equipped. Plasterboard structures are attached to them;
  • starting metal profile, which is attached to the ceiling and walls, and then profiles for sheathing with gypsum sheets are attached to it. For the second and third levels, the starting profiles are attached using special hangers;
  • special suspensions which are used for fixing profiles to the wall;
  • elements for connection used to further increase the profile for cladding;
  • elements for connection of the "crab" type... This element ensures the fastening of the profiles at right angles;
  • fasteners: "Fleas", screws, dowels.

All of these materials are used in the installation of a false ceiling. But after that, work is carried out to seal the seams and putty the ceiling.

To do this, you need to purchase a plastic reinforcing mesh, a primer, putty mixtures and finishing materials.

Instrument preparation

It is, in principle, easy to equip a multi-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. But this will require special tools that will greatly facilitate the work. These include all familiar and uncomplicated tools found in almost every home. You need to prepare:

  • a screwdriver is used to facilitate the fastening device. It is better if the nozzle on it is magnetic;
  • hammer drill or hammer drill. Depends on the type of walls. For concrete walls, it is better to use a hammer drill;
  • use a level to check vertical and horizontal lines;
  • scissors for cutting metal;
  • a special construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
  • hammer;
  • roller with needles for the formation of punctures on gypsum sheets. This must be done to facilitate the process of bending drywall elements;
  • a spatula for sealing joints and filling the ceiling surface.

In rooms that have a sufficiently large height, it is better to use special racks for work. In this case, you will not need to jump from stool to stool.

Preparation for work

Any work requires preliminary preparations. To equip a plasterboard suspended ceiling, you also need to complete a number of preparatory steps. This is what will ensure the quality of the work performed, and the result will delight for many years.

Ceiling surface preparation

The quality of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling depends not only on reliable fastening, but also how correctly the preparatory work of the ceiling surface was carried out. This requires:

  1. Completely free the ceiling from various objects: lamps, chandeliers, cornices, etc.
  2. Clean from old finishes. For example, from whitewash or paint, wallpaper or ceiling tiles.
  3. Repair any cracks or other defects. It is best to do this with a fast hardening mixture.
  4. Treat the ceiling surface with a special antibacterial liquid to prevent the formation of various types of fungi.

By using these measures, an optimal microclimate can be ensured, which will ensure a longer service life of the ceiling structure.

Marking

The most crucial stage in the installation of plasterboard ceilings, especially difficult ones, is to carry out the correct marking. It is the exact markings that will provide the correct shape for the ceiling and a flat surface. To complete the stages of marking, you must perform the following actions:

  • On the walls, using a level, draw the lines of all ceiling levels. For example, a three-tiered ceiling will have three parallel lines on the wall.

Important! The differences between the ceiling levels should be of such a height that it is possible to easily place the luminaires and make them easy to install.

For this, the lamps must be purchased in advance.

  • At the next stage, we mark the parallel lines on the ceiling. The distance between the lines is about 60 cm. The starting profile, that is, the profile of the first level, will be attached to them in the future.
  • Next, we apply the markup of the second level. Depending on the design, the markings are applied to the initial level of the ceiling or to the ceiling.
  • Curved markings, arcs or circles are applied using a cord or a special strip with holes. A screw is inserted into one of the holes, a pencil into the second. Thus, we get a tool that replaces the compass.
  • We perform various complex markings using pre-prepared templates.

Installation of a multi-level ceiling

This section will discuss how to make a multi-level plasterboard ceiling yourself. This process consists of several stages: installation of the frame, plasterboard sheathing and finishing the ceiling.

Let us dwell on the first two stages in more detail.

Frame installation

When starting the process of installing the frame, you should first draw up a diagram on paper. The most important elements and transitions should be marked on it. After that, we proceed directly to the arrangement of the frame:

  1. Starting profiles are attached to the preliminary marking on the walls.
  2. Cords are pulled between the attached profiles, which will show the reference point of each level.
  3. Suspensions are attached to the ceiling. With their help, the profile guides will be fixed. For their installation, the end parts are inserted into the starting profiles and then attached to the suspensions along the entire length.
  4. In those places where the second level is planned, you do not need to attach the main profile. In the place where the border of the second level passes, a starting profile is attached to the ceiling. It is placed strictly along the border line.
  5. We insert parts of the main profile into the starting profile on the ceiling every 20-30 cm. In length, they must correspond to the height of this ceiling level.
  6. A starting profile with a configuration similar to that attached to the ceiling is attached to the lower ends of the parts of the main profile.
  7. We complete the installation by strengthening the structure with the main profiles, inserting them into the starting ones and additionally fixing them with suspensions on the ceiling ceiling.

Important! At the stage of installing the frame, it is necessary to lay all the necessary wiring for lighting.

Plasterboard sheathing

At this stage, we produce plasterboard plastering of the already finished frame. It is impossible to do this work on your own, since you have to lift heavy sheets of drywall to a certain height. Therefore, we find ourselves a partner in advance.

  1. We apply the markings on the drywall and draw lines with the help of a construction knife. After that, you need to gently break the sheet.
  2. We make round holes on the parts that will be attached to the lamps.
  3. Next, we fasten the sheets to the main profile using self-tapping screws for metal. The optimum length of self-tapping screws is 2.5 cm. The level of fastening of self-tapping screws is determined by the following characteristics: the head should be slightly below the surface of the sheet, but at the same time it should not break through the cardboard. Thus, all horizontal planes are sutured.
  4. A more complex process is the sheathing of vertical planes, especially arcs. If curved vertical surfaces are sewn up, then it is better to do this in small pieces of drywall, and then carefully seal the seams.
  5. You can bend pieces of drywall using a needle trowel. To begin with, you need to walk it over the sheet, then with the help of a sprayer moisten the part a little and, with gentle movements, try to bend it.

Important! Care must be taken not to overdo it with hydration. Since with excess moisture, the part may simply fall apart.

After the completion of the cladding, they proceed to the processing of the seams and its filling.

Conclusion

It seems to many that arranging a multi-tiered ceiling with your own hands is an overwhelming task. But, if you carefully study the tips given in this article and adhere to all the necessary instructions, you can get a unique ceiling structure.

With the seeming complexity of a multi-level ceiling, it is quite simple to make it yourself. The main thing is to follow all the rules during work and act in a certain sequence.

For those who have no idea how to make a multi-level plasterboard ceiling, we advise you to read this article. You will understand that everything is not so difficult as it might seem to many. After calculating the required amount of material and purchasing it, it is imperative to prepare the ceiling for work (see).

Preparatory stages

First, the ceiling should be cleaned of the old coating.

Cleaning the ceiling

  1. If you had panels attached, they should be removed and the ceiling should be cleaned from glue residues and various irregularities.
  2. If there was whitewash, you can not clean it off, but only if there are no cracks and no separation from the surface. Applied in several layers, the poorly adhering whitewash will have to be removed, otherwise it will fall off in the future, falling onto the drywall fragments.
  3. It is advisable to remove the old paint. This can be done with a spatula or metal brush.
  4. Old stretch ceilings are dismantled, fasteners and all that is superfluous are removed.

Surface marking

After cleaning, the marking is done. The location of the future profile along the perimeter is marked.

Note! It should be noted that the suspended ceiling will be slightly below the level of the main... If several tiers are planned, each subsequent one is attached below the previous one. The markings are made along the walls, taking into account the fact that there will be lamps between the levels. Therefore, the distance should allow to place them (see).

  1. Anyone who already knows a little how to make plasterboard ceilings yourself will definitely advise you to purchase lamps in advance, before starting work. Heed this advice, because the luminaire has certain dimensions, and taking them into account, the distance between the tiers will be mounted.
  2. Consider the number of levels based on the height of the main ceiling in your apartment. The fact is that the more tiers are planned, and the greater the distance between them, the lower the final result will actually be. Therefore, in low-ceilinged apartments of an old building, it will be inappropriate to create an overly bulky structure.

  1. Measure when marking the heights in the corners of the room. Next, select the corner with the smallest height value, and make a mark at the desired distance from the main ceiling. This mark will indicate the location of the drywall sheet. Moreover, mark both adjoining walls on the sides of the corner.
  2. Naturally, in order to learn how to make a multi-level plasterboard ceiling, you need to go through all the stages of installation. And the next step will be marking the remaining three corners. The easiest way to do this is with a water or laser level. But, if you do not have this tool, you can use the elementary mathematical calculations given below (see).
  3. The height of the initial one is subtracted from the height of the location of each subsequent corner. The difference is added to the distance the new ceiling is lowered and the amount is subtracted from the level of the main ceiling. For example, if the lowest angle is at 2 meters and the next one is at 2.1 meters, the difference is 10cm. If you make the first level 10cm below the base, then the markings in the first corner will be at a height of 1.9m. In the second corner, the markings are made, retreating from the main, upper plane already by 20 cm.
  4. After this marking, markings should be made for attaching future profiles and hangers. Parallel lines are drawn under the profiles, points for the attachment points of the suspensions... Note that the profiles will be located at all seams of the material, that is, its edges should not hang in the air. Decide even before the start of the markings, from what place will begin finishing the ceiling with sheets of drywall.
  5. Edge planer. In the case of stripping a 45⁰ chamfer for future filler, it will be necessary.

Instruments

  1. For editing, you will need a pencil or marker for marking.
  2. Grinder or scissors for metal for cutting bearing profiles.
  3. Drill for drilling holes for fasteners.
  4. Painter's knife or electric jigsaw. They will be needed for cutting curly patterns on sheets, for future patterns on the ceiling.
  5. Needle roller. It will come in handy if you have conceived curved surfaces on drywall.
  6. Edge planer. In the case of a 45⁰ chamfer for future filling, it will be necessary.
  7. Safety glasses and gloves. The goggles will keep dust and crumbs from getting into your eyes, which will fall into your eyes in large quantities during work. Gloves will keep your hands safe while working, few people want to have cuts and calluses.

Execution of the frame for the ceiling

  1. Before installing a multi-level plasterboard ceiling, it is necessary to attach the frame to the main ceiling and walls. The main UD profile is attached along the perimeter of the walls. This is a supporting structure, which will be further supplemented with CD-profiles, which increase the stability and rigidity of the entire system. The UD profile is mounted on the walls using dowels. They are placed in increments of about 25 - 30 cm.
  2. Now it's time to install the intermediate, CD-profiles. They are connected with metal-to-metal self-tapping screws. Now you can say that you have completed the work to install the first level of the false ceiling. However, those who professionally perform the installation of multi-level ceilings - plasterboard ceilings, will give you advice on how to complete the next levels.
  3. To install the second and subsequent elements, you need to install additional bearing levels. To do this, you need spacers, also called suspensions. They are attached to the main crate and play the role of second-level carriers. The hangers are attached with self-tapping screws, and then the second tier of your ceiling will be suspended from them.

  1. If the area of ​​the room is more than 20m², then the profiles are located at a distance of no more than 40cm from each other. Labels for CD profiles are made along the walls or ceiling every 50 cm. The mounting brackets will be screwed here.
  2. Measure the distance from wall to wall, then cut the CD profiles about 0.5cm less than the obtained distance. Now you can insert CD profiles into UD profiles.
  3. Raise the CD profiles slightly. Therefore, each of the profiles will have to be tightened with the middle bracket for fastening, then bending it under the profile. Pull the thread across the auxiliary frame at the level of its plane.
  4. All auxiliary profiles are exposed along the stretched thread. Then they are attached to the main one with mounting brackets or self-tapping screws. The ends of the staples can be bent to the sides or up.

Plasterboard installation

After the manufacture and fastening of the frame, you can proceed to attaching the sheets to the first level. It is advisable to see how the installation of multi-level plasterboard ceilings is carried out: the video that you will find on our website.

  1. Plasterboard is suspended on the first level, and it is not necessary to start directly from the wall. The perimeter can be left free because subsequent levels will be set.
  2. Sheets should be attached to the frame with special screws. Each sheet will take about 60 pieces.
  3. Consider future lighting. The liner for it should be carried out already before the installation of the sheets to the profiles.
  4. The second level in form depends on your imagination. Let's say it's a round shape. A circle is drawn, then a second level frame is attached along the markup. The UD profile will serve as the basis. It is attached to the first tier, preferably in those places where the planks of the first tier pass.
  5. CD-profiles are then inserted into the main profile, and they are fixed through drywall to the CD-profiles of the first level. This will require self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 60 - 70 mm.
  6. The sheets are screwed on, and only then cut off. This is most conveniently done with an electric jigsaw or a conventional metal hacksaw.
  7. Now you can start making the third level. In general, the installation of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling involves any number of tiers. However, it is not recommended to do more than three levels, otherwise the ceiling will be too low. The third level is performed according to the same principle as the second.
  8. If we again take a circle as an example, then its diameter should be larger than that of the previous one.
  9. Do not forget to remove the eyeliner for the lamps, otherwise you will have to dismantle some of what has already been done.
  10. The third level is attached in the same way as the second, only starting from the first marked even corner.

Note! Of course, we gave an example of a fairly simple ceiling pattern. This makes it easier to imagine the process of work. Do not be afraid and believe that the work will be difficult and long. Completely all the work can be done by one person, who does not even have special skills in construction.

So that you have an idea of ​​how this is done, look at how the installation of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling is carried out - the video on our website will become much easier for you to make repairs after an illustrative example. Moreover, you can even make a ceiling that is quite complex in shape, because in fact there is nothing complicated in the process.

The original method of finishing the ceiling is the installation of a multi-level structure. The market presents an extensive list of materials for this kind of cladding. One of them is drywall. Beginners are interested in the question of how to make a multi-level plasterboard ceiling with their own hands, how to correctly form the "skeleton" of the structure?

Tiered ceilings are popular. Because one of the advantages of this kind of coating is the abundance of configurations that drywall can acquire. Thanks to these properties of the material, any design masterpiece is constructed. On the open spaces of the Runet, it is possible to find a huge number of professional videos that describe all the moments of editing.


Multilevel ceiling - characteristics, pros and cons

Among the abundance of building materials, the best and most affordable is drywall.

For a multi-tiered ceiling, the first level is the main ceiling or a single-tiered plasterboard ceiling. It should be borne in mind that each further tier should have a smaller footage than the previous one. The equipment of a multi-level ceiling is done by fixing the frame. The frame is made as for the first level. It is important to remember that the base is no longer the main ceiling covering, but the frame of the previous level.

Single-tiered ceilings do not always require gypsum board bends, then multi-level structures are created from a curved frame structure and curved building material.

Traditionally, a multi-level ceiling is subdivided:

  • on the frame;
  • on the diagonal;
  • to zonal.

A multi-level plasterboard ceiling has its advantages:

  • This kind of structure visually increases the area of ​​the room.
  • The multi-tiered structure hides the defects of the existing ceiling. Under it you can place the necessary wires and ventilation.
  • Thanks to the design, they make the zoning of the room without additional partitions.
  • All levels can create a reflective effect.

Disadvantages of tiered design:

  • Installation of a multi-level ceiling is laborious, and beginners do not always manage to master this technology on their own.
  • Great weight.
  • Installation of this kind of ceiling takes a lot of time.
  • The multi-level ceiling is not moisture resistant.

Decorating

This type of ceiling is an ideal niche for the embodiment of the most extraordinary design ideas. Different ceiling layers can be easily separated using a color palette. Exquisite lighting is also used.

Important! The installation of complex ceiling coverings with curved lines is much more difficult to implement with your own hands than with rectangular ones.

The difficulty is the application of a variety of contours, along which the frame of waves and bends is subsequently mounted. In order to facilitate the procedure, diagrams are drawn up. The better the sketch (project), the fewer problems.

Layout

The construction of a complex ceiling covering cannot be realized without a project, since it makes it possible to evaluate all the pros and cons and how the ceiling will fit into the interior of the room.

The sketch should reflect all the details of the room, since the future shape of the ceiling covering depends on this. It is important to maintain scale when making a plan.

Design

In the project, you need to clarify the number of expected tiers, based on the height of the room. It should be remembered: the more tiers, the lower the ceiling will be. If the room has a low ceiling, the construction of a complex covering with several tiers will have to be abandoned.

Sample tiered ceiling

When the goal is to make a durable multi-level plasterboard ceiling, they first draw up a design diagram. How to correctly make such a scheme, you can find out by watching a professional video. You can draw such a model yourself, or you can use a special program. To draw up a diagram, the exact parameters of the room are used. Such data will help to correctly position the profiles at all levels.

This preliminary stage helps to take into account all the nuances of the future design.

When the drawing is ready, the markup is transferred to the surface in the following sequence:

  • transfer the markings with a ruler, level, chopping cord;
  • the contours of the attachment of load-bearing special profiles are marked directly on the walls (10-15 cm from the corner point, and the lowest-level one);

Important! When using a multi-level plasterboard ceiling it is necessary to hide communications, in such a situation the distance can be increased.

  • The next step is to mark the masonry of the bearing profiles and mount the hangers on the frame for their fastening.

DIY ceiling marking


On the eve of direct manipulation, preparatory work needs to be done. Everything that is not useful for direct installation of the ceiling is removed from the room.

Marking provides for marking all corners of the structure.

The orientation of the profile device along the circumference should be marked with a continuous line. Holes are drilled in the wall with a step of 20-30 cm for fixing the regulating profile. Dowels are fixed in the holes, into which guide profiles are fixed with self-tapping screws.

Important! Correctly made markings will help save time and building materials.

Do-it-yourself frame installation


The frame is the foundation of the ceiling, and therefore they are responsible for the installation. There are many videos on the World Wide Web that describe the step-by-step process of assembling complex ceilings with your own hands. After watching the video, you can understand how and in what sequence the work is done.

The photo shows the manufacture of the frame.


The work of installing a multi-level ceiling is as follows:

  • A guiding special profile is mounted. The profiles are fastened by means of dowels.
  • Suspensions are placed.
  • The CD-profile should be inserted into the regulating ones. Their attachment to the suspensions is done with self-tapping screws.
  • Jumpers are mounted.

Important! In places where steps are needed, the profile should be lowered to the desired height.

Installation of electrical wiring, cladding

At this stage of work, do not overlook the wiring. Therefore, after installing the frame, you should not rush and move on to its facing. Carrying out the work on their own, they think over the layout of the ceiling lighting, in particular, the placement of lighting fixtures, and make the wiring.

After that, you can safely hem drywall sheets to the frame. The photo shows the cladding of the frame.


The cladding work can be done partially. That is, the sheets can go beyond the boundaries of the next level.

Installation of the second level


Installation of subsequent levels is difficult. The markings are done directly on the first level drywall.

Installation of the frame involves the following steps:

  • After determining the contour of the second tier of the ceiling, it is worth deciding on the height and marking the level on the walls.

Important! When the next level of the false ceiling is adjacent to the walls, then you should fix the guide profile around the circumference.

  • To make the correct circular shape from drywall, it is better to watch the video and understand in which direction to make the cuts, since they depend on the radius of the structure.

The bending of drywall is done in the following sequence:

  • The curved profile is attached to the sheet of the first level after 15-20 cm.If a step of 15-20 cm does not allow getting into the profile, it is made a little smaller, or the profile is simply attached to the sheet at small intervals.
  • It is necessary to make small segments from the profile. On the sides of each, 3-5 cm are cut.
  • The segments are attached to the profile vertically (step 20-25 cm), the second profile is screwed to them.

This completes the complex process of erecting the second tier of the ceiling.

Important! A step of 15-20 cm does not allow you to get into the profile, in which case it can be made a little shorter. Or, simply attach the profile to the sheet at small intervals.

Installation of sheets on the ceiling


The second tier should be sewn up with sheets so that the seams do not coincide with the joints on the first. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws so that the seams fall on the profiles.

  • Before working with sheets of material, it is recommended:
  • Identify all lighting fixtures and make holes. The edges of the sheets must be trimmed with an edge planer.

These manipulations are possible after installation, but it will be much more convenient to work on the floor.

Ceiling decoration

Primarily, it is necessary to pay attention to finishing all joints of the sheets with a reinforcing tape. After doing this work, you can proceed to fixing the corners. The photo shows the use of a reinforcing tape.


Important! All finishing is done from top to bottom.

After fixing the corners, they are checked for defects. It is better to eliminate the mistakes made during the work immediately.

After eliminating the shortcomings, they proceed to applying the first layer of putty on the ceiling sheets. The first layer does not require special scrupulousness. Subsequent actions are to clean the dried ceiling coating. After that, a primer is applied. After it dries, fiberglass or cobwebs are applied to the ceiling.


The next step is to apply the finishing putty. After it dries, a deep impregnation primer is applied to the ceiling. When it dries, proceed to the direct painting of the ceiling. It is painted from top to bottom.


Important! Fiberglass is used for additional ceiling reinforcement. The spider web is used in the work to prevent possible cracks in the ceiling.

Self-installation of multi-tiered pavement is not an easy task. The main thing is not to neglect the requirements of technology, otherwise the work will not give a positive result.

It is not difficult to assemble a multi-level plasterboard ceiling on your own. It is enough to have a little experience and perform all the stages of installation sequentially. But you should immediately warn that the lower ceiling levels are marked on a leveled surface. Therefore, if the ceiling height in the room is not sufficient for leveling with plasterboard, you may have to leave the main ceiling as the top level, having previously straightened it with plaster or putty.

Ceiling preparation

First, with the ceiling you need. If the panels were glued, then they must be removed and the ceiling surface cleaned from traces of glue. If there was a stretch ceiling, then it is disassembled, all fasteners and other elements are removed. if initially the base of the ceiling is curved to be pre-assembled

Top-level markup

The markup begins with a horizontal skip. For this, a laser level is used. You can use the water one, but the laser is more convenient and faster.

The device must be placed in the center of the room, turned on and wait until the beam calms down. Next, the laser is directed alternately into the corners of the room, and marks are made on each of the converging walls.

According to the risks received, horizontal lines are beaten off with the help of a paint cord. It is pulled tight between the corners, then pulled slightly away from the wall and released to produce cotton. As a result, a clear mark is left on the wall. To obtain a basic horizontal, this operation must be repeated along all the walls.

Since the first level is leveling, it should be as close to the main ceiling as possible. To determine its location, it is necessary to find the lowest angle, for which the distance from the ceiling to the base horizontal is measured. Where it is the smallest, there will be the desired angle.

Now, to get the ceiling line of the first level, you need:

  • set aside 4-5 cm in the found corner from the ceiling (the thickness of the PP-profile plus a gap of 1-2 cm);
  • measure the distance from the base horizontal to the mark made on the converging walls;
  • postpone this distance in the remaining corners;
  • connect the received marks, beating off the lines with a paint cord.

  • on the ceiling along the long wall, marks are placed with a pitch of 400-600 mm. The markup should start from the shortest wall in the room;
  • marking is made on the second, parallel wall, starting from the same side as in the previous step;
  • as a result of joining the marks, parallel lines are obtained, along which the fixation points of the suspensions are outlined with a step of 700 mm.

Hangers are installed perpendicular to the lines using.

When installing a multi-level ceiling, the step between the intermediate frame profiles of the first tier should not exceed 400 mm, since it will carry an additional load. In addition, such a step makes it possible to install additional embedded inserts for securing the structure of the second tier.

The next step is to install the ceiling profiles. They are inserted into the wall profile guides and attached to the hangers. In order for the lower edges of all PP-profiles to be in the same horizontal plane, you can stretch the fishing line or use a rule-rail. In this case, intermediate profiles are set first, which will act as beacons. The remaining PP profiles are already aligned with them.

Stiffeners are attached perpendicular to the mounted profiles with crabs. For them, a PP profile is also used. Stiffeners should be located at the site of the planned joints of drywall sheets. Necessary information,

At the same stage, embedded profiles are installed under the frame of the second level, since it cannot be attached directly to drywall. Embedments are installed according to the drawing, in pre-designated places.

On this, the frame of the first tier is ready and it can be sewn up with plasterboard sheets. In this case, under each joint there must be a frame element. By the way, from the GKL.

The video shows ways how to bend the profile for the ceiling correctly

Installation of the second and subsequent levels

The required height is laid on the walls from the upper tier, and the guide profiles are fixed. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the plasterboard sheet.

According to the existing drawing, the outline of the lower one is marked on the sheets of drywall of the upper level. Along these lines, pre-prepared blanks from the PN profile are attached. For straight sections - just segments of the required length. For curved - the profile must be cut and bent to the desired shape. Stiffeners are also installed between the guides.

Now the side walls of the second tier box are being manufactured. For this, strips of the required width are cut from drywall, taking into account the thickness of the gypsum board. These strips are fixed to the already set contour. On the inside, they are attached to their free edge with self-tapping screws PN-profiles, which, in turn, are connected to wall guides with additional profiles.

Each of us is trying to diversify the interior of our home by choosing an original wall or ceiling decoration. Multilevel ceilings today are no longer a luxury, but for some reason they remain a dream for many. However, if you decide to equip such a ceiling in your house, then you will not regret it later, as it will bring a zest to the interior of your home.

Features of multi-level ceilings

Many developers prefer to divide spaces into several zones according to their functional purpose. When arranging a multi-level ceiling, in this case, the zoning can be mirrored on the ceiling. The boundaries of the functional zones on the ceiling look differently - these are color transitions, level differences in height, and lighting contrast.

Accents are most often made in the living room on the working and dining area, but the cinema hall and the recreation area remain muted. Multilevel plasterboard ceilings are an excellent solution for large rooms in which just a flat ceiling looks inappropriate. The perspective in the vertical direction is another matter.

The simplest version of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling is two-level plasterboard ceilings. To do this, on a single-level ceiling, another level is built along the perimeter along the walls. You can make simple ledges, or with niches for hidden diffused ceiling lighting. Depending on the decorator's intention, the ceiling cornice along the walls can be round or rectangular.

Three-level ceilings differ from two-level ceilings only in the number of layers created on the previous layers sequentially. With an increase in the number of levels, it becomes necessary to strengthen the supporting structure of the overlying layers. Standard design loads are calculated based on an allowable value of 14 kilograms per square meter.

It is customary to highlight different levels of plasterboard ceilings by painting different layers with different colors and using decorative lighting. It is worth noting that it is more difficult to equip a curved multi-level ceiling than a traditional straight ceiling or a multi-level structure with straight lines. The main difficulty lies in drawing lines along which the vertical part of circles, bends and waves will subsequently pass. Simply put, accurate markings are the key to successful work.

Advantages of multi-level structures

Choosing a multi-level plasterboard ceiling for arrangement in your home, you will not go wrong, because this design has a lot of advantages. Let's consider the main ones:

  1. Convenience in work. Even the simplest single-level ceiling is mounted much faster than a classic ceiling. In a maximum of two days, the ceiling will be ready for finishing.
  2. Changing the geometry of the room. Multilevel plasterboard ceilings with their variety of curved shapes and various lighting options are able to optically increase the overall space, rebuilding the shape and geometry of the room.
  3. Disguise of communications. Multilevel ceilings are capable of covering various defects of the original rough surface, masking electrical wiring, communications of ventilation and air conditioning systems, and sometimes even pipes.
  4. Functional zoning. A multi-level plasterboard ceiling will successfully separate a studio apartment and large rooms where the installation of interior partitions into functional zones is not provided.
  5. Original lighting. When installing a multi-level plasterboard ceiling, you can equip an original and unique lighting system using the popular nowadays halogen bulbs with a rotary mechanism, spotlights, modern chandeliers for multi-level ceilings and LED lighting.
  6. Ecological cleanliness. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material. In addition, its moisture-permeable properties allow maintaining a normal microclimate in the room.
  7. Price-quality ratio. Multilevel plasterboard ceilings are almost unmatched in this price category. Along with these advantages, multilevel plasterboard ceilings have high durability, which has been proven by more than 20 years of operation of the first plasterboard structures.

Sketch of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling

To analyze how a multi-level plasterboard ceiling will fit into the interior of the room and look relative to pieces of furniture, it is recommended to first develop a sketch of such a structure. The main thing in the drawing of a multi-level ceiling is compliance with the scale, accuracy and correctly calculated dimensions, without errors.

On the sketch, you should draw all the walls in the room and mark the windows and doors that are in it without fail. This point is especially important if you yourself will come up with the shape of the ceiling. Everything should be thought out to the smallest details, for example, whether there will be hidden curtain rods above the windows, and how the ceiling from the doorway will look.

After that, at least schematically mark in the picture the placement of furniture in the room. These should not be too bright features so that attention is not distracted from the boundaries of the ceiling itself. Having completed these sketches, you can proceed directly to drawing the multi-level ceiling itself. If you somewhere saw a photo of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling that you liked, then you can choose the same configuration for yourself, adapting it to the shape of your room.

When sketching a multi-level ceiling, consider the number of levels based on the height of the main ceiling in the apartment. Remember that the more tiers you plan to make, and the greater the distance between them, the lower the ceiling will end up. Therefore, it is not recommended to equip an overly bulky structure in low-ceilinged apartments of old buildings.

The first part of the ceiling is the lowest level of the multi-level plasterboard ceiling and one fourth of the circle located in one corner of the room. The two remaining pieces, which are wave-like shapes, will be placed at the same level and in the middle between the ceiling itself and part of the circle.

You can draw the undulating shapes and curves of the middle part of the future multi-level ceiling by hand with the additional use of a compass. When applying all parts of the ceiling to the sketch, it is necessary to take into account its real dimensions. Also at this stage, it is recommended to stock up on lamps in advance to create backlighting, before starting work.

Surface marking for ceiling arrangement

Immediately before marking the surface, it is recommended to clean the ceiling from the old coating. If you have panels attached to the ceiling, they must be removed and the surface cleaned from glue residues and various irregularities. If whitewashing has been done, you can not clean it off if you do not observe its departure from the surface and cracks on the ceiling.

Chalk that is applied in several layers and does not hold well will have to be removed, since it will gradually fall off and fall on the drywall fragments in the future. It is advisable to remove the old paint, which you can do with a spatula or metal brush. The old stretch ceiling is dismantled by removing the fasteners.

After cleaning the surface, you can start marking the ceiling. The first step is to outline the location of the first level of the future multi-level ceiling, as in the video about multi-level plasterboard ceilings. It is customary to make markings along the walls, taking into account the fact that lamps will be located between the levels. Therefore, make sure that the distance allows you to place them.

Next, you need to select the corner with the lowest value of the height and make a mark at the distance you need from the ceiling, which indicates the placement of the drywall sheet. In this case, it is necessary to mark both adjoining walls on the sides of the corner. And the next stage is marking the 3 remaining corners.

The easiest way to do this is with a laser or water level. But you can also use the following mathematical calculations. From the height of the placement of each subsequent corner, you need to subtract the height of the original. Add the difference to the distance by which the new multi-level ceiling will be lowered, and subtract the amount from the level of the main surface.

Let's take a simple example. If in a room the lowest corner is at 2 meters and the next is at 2.1 meters, the difference is 10 centimeters. If you want to make the first level 10 centimeters below the base, then in the first corner the markings should be at a height of 1.9 meters. In the second corner, make a markup, retreating from the main plane by 20 centimeters.

After such a marking, it is necessary to proceed with the marking for attaching future suspensions and profiles. It is customary to draw parallel lines under the profiles, to mark the points of attachment of the suspensions - to put dots. The profiles will be located at all seams of the drywall, that is, the edges of the material should not hang in the air.

The spacing of the suspensions is 60 centimeters, and the step of the profiles is about 40 centimeters, the suspensions are also located at the end of each profile. Based on the overall dimensions of the room and the shape of the ceiling to be mounted, you need to determine the direction of the profile, following the path of the smallest resistance, in other words - as it is more convenient for you. Very often there are persistent recommendations that it is worth installing the bearing profiles in the perpendicular direction to the window so that the seams on the material are so invisible under the rays of the sun.

However, when choosing the direction of installation of the profile, it is more correct to take into account its length, the placement of drywall sheets, the type of dressing between the sheets and the number of transverse seams. And to make the seams less noticeable, you need to try at the puttying stage.

Installation of a multi-level ceiling frame

To carry out work on the device of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • marker or pencil for marking;
  • scissors for metal or a grinder for cutting bearing profiles;
  • an electric jigsaw or paint knife for cutting patterns on drywall sheets;
  • drill for making holes for fasteners;
  • an edging planer for cleaning a chamfer at 45 degrees for future filling;
  • needle roller for creating a curved surface on drywall;
  • protective gloves to keep hands safe while working and to prevent cuts and calluses;
  • protective goggles to protect the eyes from crumbs and dust, which will be poured in large quantities during work.

Before proceeding with the arrangement of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling, you should attach the frame to the walls and the main ceiling. Along the perimeter of the walls, the main UD-profile is attached, which is a supporting structure. In the future, it needs to be supplemented with CD-profiles, which increase the rigidity and stability of the entire system. The UD profile is installed on the walls using dowels. They are placed in increments of close to 25 - 30 centimeters.

After that, it is necessary to proceed with the installation of intermediate CD-profiles, which are usually connected to each other with metal-to-metal self-tapping screws. Now we can say that the work to install the first level of the plasterboard ceiling is done. To install the second level and subsequent elements, it is necessary to additionally install carrier levels.

To do this, you need distancers, which are also called suspensions. They need to be attached to the main crate, they act as carriers of the second level. The hangers should be fastened with self-tapping screws, and then the second tier of the plasterboard ceiling will be suspended from them.

To bend the profile, it must be cut. If the area of ​​the room is more than 20 square meters, then the profiles must be placed at a distance from each other, no more than 40 centimeters. Labels for CD profiles are made along the ceiling or walls approximately every 50 centimeters. Here you need to screw the brackets for the fasteners.

Measure the distance between the walls, then cut the CD profiles approximately 0.5 centimeters less than the calculated distance. Now you can insert CD profiles into UD profiles by slightly lifting the latter. Therefore, each profile will have to be tightened with a middle bracket for fastening, then bending it under the profile.

Pull the thread across the auxiliary frame to the level of its plane. All auxiliary profiles must be set on it. Then you will need to attach them to the main one with self-tapping screws or mounting brackets. The ends of the staples should be bent up or to the sides.

After that, you can sew up the frame of the first level, but you should not forget about dressing the seams, jumpers and the stock that should be left for the first level. Unnecessary corners must be removed immediately - cut off so that the structure does not unnecessarily load with additional weight. So, the first level is already ready, and you can transfer the drawing from the sketch to the ceiling.

Installation of drywall sheets on the ceiling

After the manufacture and installation of the frame, you can proceed to fastening drywall sheets to the first level, according to the instructions for a multi-level plasterboard ceiling. I would like to warn you that it is not worth cutting drywall so that it repeats the wave lines. Do it differently. Measure the sheet in such a way that it fits without problems in the allotted place, but at the same time protrudes slightly beyond the boundaries of the wave. After the sheet is tacked, you can cut off all excess with a sharp knife.

To do this, draw with a knife along the back of the sheet, focusing on the wave and using it as a ruler. Then break the drywall a little in such a way that a line is obtained from the bottom, and draw a knife along it. After that, scroll around the edge of the screws. Then you need to trim the ends. Well, at the end of the whole work, you need to trim the frayed cardboard, although this is not necessary.

It is customary to hang drywall on the first level, and you do not have to start from the wall at all. You can leave the perimeter free, since here you will set subsequent levels. It is recommended to attach sheets to the frame with special self-tapping screws. Each sheet takes about 60 pieces.

Consider future lighting when installing drywall sheets. The eyeliner for it must be carried out even before the sheets are attached to the profiles. The form of the second level will depend on your imagination. If you chose a rounded shape. To do this, you need to draw a circle and attach the frame of the second level of the ceiling according to the marking, which is also based on the UD profile. It must be attached to the first tier, preferably in places where the planks of the first tier will pass.

After that, it is necessary to insert CD-profiles into the main profile, which are usually attached to the CD-profiles of the first level through drywall. To do this, you need self-tapping screws for metal, which have a length of 60 - 70 millimeters. The sheets are screwed on and then cut off. It is convenient to do this with an electric jigsaw or a conventional metal hacksaw.

Now you can start creating the third level. However, remember that the price of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling in this case will increase. In general, the arrangement of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling assumes the presence of any number of tiers. However, it is not recommended to do more than 3 levels, otherwise the ceiling will become too low. Do not forget to remove the eyeliner for the lamps, otherwise you will have to dismantle some of what was done.