The cosiness and comfort of a country house depend not only on reliable walls and roofs, but also on the quality of the finishing of the house as a whole. All work on the construction of a private house is divided into several stages, and the final is the finishing of the house inside and out.
The decoration of a private house combines several different types of work at once, requiring wide knowledge and skills in the construction business from the master. When finishing a private house with your own hands and not having extensive experience in this matter, you need to know the following - the decoration of a private house is divided into internal and external. Each of them uses its own finishing materials and building technologies.
The importance of the appearance of a private house cannot be overestimated. The first impression of the house itself and its owners depends on how well the materials are selected and how well all the work is done. The exterior decoration of the house includes work with the facade and plinth, and they are carried out after all work with the roof has been completed. Doing the exterior decoration of a private house with your own hands will not be difficult, the main thing is to know what and how to do.
Today, the market can please with a large selection of finishing materials for facades, ranging from various plasters to ventilated facades. The choice of this or that material depends purely on the personal preferences and financial capabilities of the owners of a private house.
This method of finishing the facade of the house has been known for a long time and is still popular. The most widely used cement-based plasters with various additives. With the development of technology, acrylic, silicone, insulated and various decorative plasters appeared. When choosing one or another plaster as a material for finishing the facade, you must make sure that it is suitable for outdoor use. Plastering the walls of the house allows you to create a smooth and uniform surface, which in addition will strengthen and insulate the walls of the house.
The plaster is applied to the prepared surface, which is cleaned of dust and impregnated with a deep penetration primer. To increase strength and durability, the plaster layer is reinforced with mesh.
Especially popular are plasters "bark beetle" and "under a fur coat". The technology for applying the first is the same as for ordinary plaster. But “under a fur coat” is carried out by spraying plaster on the wall through a sieve with cells of a certain size.
Finishing a private house with siding appeared relatively recently. This simple and affordable way of facade cladding is to install vinyl or metal strips that are mounted one on top of the other. Finishing the facades of private houses with siding allows you to make a ventilated facade with a vapor-permeable film, if necessary, you can insulate it. All work on the installation of siding is quite simple and does not require special knowledge. The main thing is to do everything carefully and gradually.
Facing with ceramic tiles, artificial or natural stone belongs to the category of very expensive facades. The cost of materials and the complexity of the work contribute to the growth in popularity of this type of facade decoration. More often you can see a combined stone-plaster or tile-plaster finish. Sometimes, instead of plaster, ordinary paint or whitewash is used.
As already noted, finishing the facade with tiles or stone is a very complicated matter and requires certain skills and abilities that have been honed over the years. A mistake can cause the wall to collapse and have to be redone. Therefore, this option for finishing the facade is best left to professionals.
This finishing material has been used for quite a long time, but thanks to modern technologies in construction, facing bricks of various shapes and shades can be found on the market. The performance of laying facing bricks is not much different from laying ordinary bricks, but it is worth noting that facing bricks are more demanding on the accuracy and accuracy of the work performed. In addition to the impressive appearance, the advantages of facing bricks include the possibility of equipping thermal insulation between the wall and the finish. For those who want to finish the facade with facing bricks, a partner is required. Usually, the laying of facing bricks is carried out in parallel with the construction of walls. The connection between the facing brick and the wall is made using a masonry mesh. If you have to brick an already built house, then you need to slightly increase the base itself in order to create a reliable stop for masonry. And only after that proceed to the laying of facing bricks. If necessary, the space between the wall and the masonry can be additionally insulated, for example with expanded clay.
This facade finishing option appeared relatively recently, but quickly gained popularity due to ease of installation, the possibility of creating thermal insulation, ease of repair, the presence of wall ventilation and a beautiful appearance. In addition, this finish option is suitable for all types of wall surfaces. The design of such facades is a metal or wooden frame, on which composite panels, porcelain stoneware, natural stone and much more are hung.
Located in the lower part of the facade, the plinth protects it from dirt and mechanical damage. For this reason, it is customary to finish the plinth with the most reliable and durable materials, which in addition serve as protection against moisture. The materials for finishing the basement are the same as for the rest of the facade, but the main selection criterion is strength and water resistance.
Plinth cladding begins with high-quality surface preparation and consists of the following works:
elimination of various irregularities, chips and cracks by filling them with a repair compound;
the repaired surface must be impregnated with a special deep penetration primer to increase the adhesive and strengthening characteristics;
before laying facing materials with a porous structure, their working surface should be treated with a water repellent.
To date, the most popular finishing materials for the plinth are:
clinker tiles;
stone tiles;
polymer tiles;
resin tiles;
fake diamond;
slate;
PVC panels;
various plasters.
The main difference between the finishing works of the basement and the facade is the increased attention to the waterproof and water-repellent characteristics of the basement.
The most time-consuming and lengthy stage of construction is a set of finishing works for the interior of a country house. In fact, the interior decoration of a private house is the embodiment of an interior design project to life. All interior finishing work begins after the subfloor has been created, electrical wiring has been installed, heating and plumbing have been installed. Finishing finishing works: plastering, puttying, painting, wallpapering, laying tiles, laying flooring, etc. are finished and are the final ones in the construction of a country house.
It is most convenient to start finishing work from the ceiling. Since in any case, something somewhere will “blurt out” or fall, and then you will have to clean the surface or even redo it again. The performance of all work on finishing the ceiling, in comparison with walls and floors, is somewhat more difficult due to the inconvenience of applying finishing materials. But it all depends on the skill and ability to handle the tool. In all other respects, it is quite possible for a beginner to finish the ceiling on his own, the main thing is to know what and how to do.
The construction market offers a wide range of materials for finishing the ceiling, and designers can always come up with something original. Today, the most popular options for finishing the ceiling are suspended ceiling, stretch ceiling, wallpapering, as well as time-tested methods such as whitewashing and painting. What exactly the ceiling will be depends on the overall interior design and the possibility of its implementation. Finishing the ceiling should begin with leveling the surface with plaster, putty and, having soaked the surface with a primer, you can start applying the finish coat.
These finishes have been known for a long time and are the easiest to implement. The work does not require special knowledge or skills, and you can cope with them yourself. The main advantages of this ceiling finish are simplicity, availability and very low cost of materials. From materials for whitewashing, quicklime is used, and a wide range of paints can be used for painting, ranging from ordinary alkyd to lime paint.
Like painting or whitewashing, wallpapering the ceiling belongs to the category of budget finishing options, but in comparison with them, this finishing option is an order of magnitude more complicated. Wallpapering the ceiling with wallpaper will require some skill and skills, moreover, you can’t do without a partner. It should be noted that for this finishing option, special ceiling wallpaper or liquid wallpaper should be used. Of course, on the market you can find premium wallpapers, the price of which is very high, but here it all depends on the wishes and budget. It is highly recommended not to use vinyl wallpaper and silk-screen printing.
A feature of this finish is the creation of a structure that is attached to the ceiling and hides it, while allowing you to equip a unique backlight using a variety of lighting fixtures, and also makes it possible to create a multi-level ceiling. The design itself is only a base that needs to be puttied and then painted or wallpapered. Unfortunately, the main disadvantages of this finishing option are a decrease in the overall height of the room and some complexity in creating the structure itself, which requires excellent engineering and construction skills.
For a suspended ceiling, a metal profile of various shapes, drywall sheets, special fasteners, self-tapping screws and dowels are used. It is better to entrust the creation of a false ceiling project to a professional, as this requires specialized knowledge and experience.
As with a suspended ceiling, the stretch ceiling design allows you to hide the ceiling and make a variety of lighting, but the structural elements of the stretch ceiling are already attached to the walls. A unique feature of stretch ceilings is the ability to use various materials with patterns and prints that allow you to create a unique ceiling surface. In addition, a stretch ceiling can be combined with a suspended one, thereby creating a multi-level structure.
The design of the stretch ceiling is quite simple and is a profile with a snap-in mechanism to hold the stretched canvas, which is attached around the perimeter of the room. The installation of stretch ceilings requires certain skills to stretch a fabric or PVC web, but no special skills are needed to fix the profile.
The next stage of work after finishing the ceiling is finishing the walls of a private house. As in the case of ceilings, the choice and use of materials depends on the style of the room and the design project developed earlier. Popular options for wall decoration are wallpapering, ceramic tiling, artificial or natural stone, decorative plaster, plasterboard sheathing, or simply painting the walls.
Although some finishing materials require good tool skills and experience in the construction industry, the work is generally easier than when working with ceilings. Also, before proceeding with the finishing of the walls, their surface must be carefully leveled with plaster and putty. Today, ceramic tiles, wallpaper, decorative plaster, various paints, drywall sheets, lining, and many other materials on the market are used to decorate the walls of a private house.
In fact, the same materials are used to finish the ceiling and walls. Unless for the ceiling, the exception is ceramic tiles, artificial and natural stone.
The main work on the arrangement of the floor was done at the stage of creating the foundation, but the floor is finally created already during the interior decoration. It should be noted right away that the finishing floor covering is laid at the very end, after the completion of the entire finish, so as not to accidentally damage it throughout all the work.
The choice of flooring depends on whether the floor is concrete or wood. So for concrete floors, any floor covering is suitable, from ceramic floor tiles to parquet. But for wood there are certain restrictions on materials. For their finishing, you can use a massive board, parquet, laminate, linoleum. Such restrictions are associated with the design of the wooden floor and the technology of laying flooring. Of course, even on a wooden floor, you can put ceramic tiles and equip the "warm floor" system, but the reliability and durability of such a design will be in question.
Some features of interior decoration
It is worth noting that the decoration of the kitchen in a private house, bath and bathroom requires the use of materials that are resistant to conditions of high humidity. Therefore, various alkyd paints are often used to finish the kitchen ceiling. The walls are finished with ceramic tiles, clapboard or simply painted. For the floor in such rooms, laying linoleum, tile or stone is most suitable.
To decorate rooms such as the bedroom and living room, you can use any materials. The main thing is that they meet the requirements for environmental friendliness, since we spend more time in these rooms.
Finishing the corridor in a private house is a special case. It's all right next to the street. Therefore, when choosing what to do with the finish, preference should be given to moisture-resistant materials that are resistant to temperature extremes. In addition, it will not be superfluous to take care of good thermal insulation.
A lot of materials are used for construction, but residential buildings built of wood do not cease to be popular. The atmosphere in a wooden house is characterized by positive energy and comfort. However, the interior decoration of a wooden house is accompanied by many nuances.
The easiest way to get a beautiful front lawn
Of course, you have seen the perfect lawn in the movies, on the alley, and perhaps on the neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area in their area will no doubt say that this is a huge job. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think so, professionals have long known about the innovative tool - liquid turf AquaGrazz.
Start of finishing works
It should be noted right away that it is not worth starting finishing work from the inside of the house, immediately after its construction. The structure is made of wood, for some time it should stand and shrink. For houses built from glued beams, this period is about a month. Other wooden houses, before finishing work, must stand for at least ten months. The exact dates are determined based on the moisture content of the material, the climatic conditions of the region and the time of year. During this time, the tree that served as material for construction dries. Accordingly, the timber or logs are reduced in size, and at the same time, the insulation laid between the rows of the log house is compressed. Premature start of finishing work in a wooden house will lead to the fact that the cladding will be skewed or will not stay on the wall at all. In other words, haste in finishing a wooden house will lead to additional costs of time and money.
Log crowns and their tightness
To ensure the tightness of the wooden walls of the house, you can use tow, jute material, sometimes moss is used. The process of sealing the gaps between the log crowns is called caulking. As a rule, caulk a log house in two approaches. The first time this happens 1-1.5 months after the completion of construction, and the second time after 6-8 months. The gaps between the rows of timber or logs are caulked immediately from the outside and from the inside. Otherwise, the structure may warp. Therefore, in the process of caulking, they move along the walls of the house and seal them alternately from two sides. Caulker starts from the lowest crowns.
It is worth noting that the log house after caulking becomes 5-7 centimeters higher. Then, the severity of the walls of the log house makes itself felt and it settles. As a result, insulation, laid between rows of timber or logs, reliably seals the walls. The temperature in the house depends on the quality of these works. In addition to preserving heat, the second caulk allows you to eliminate small distortions that have arisen during the draft of the log house.
The interior decoration of the walls begins only after they are finally caulked, and the house itself settles. The process of shrinkage of the structure is checked using control measurements of the height of the walls. A wooden house is considered ready for interior decoration if, after the second caulking, the height of its walls has not changed in 90 days.
Sanding walls inside a wooden house
In some cases, finishing work inside a wooden house is not required. This is true for houses built from high-quality material and, as a result, having a pleasant appearance, both outside and inside. In this case, you can significantly save money. The walls of such a house are enough to be sanded and tinted. Lacquer coating is best used to protect the floor from abrasion. Walls and ceilings can be treated with special water-based paints and antiseptics. The surfaces treated with them will not lose their natural appearance, but on the contrary, the texture of wooden walls will become more expressive. The use of antiseptics is necessary in any case, if you, of course, want to maintain a pleasant external design of wooden walls.
The seam from the caulk, between the rows of timber or logs, can spoil the impression of any wooden walls. Therefore, to ennoble such a seam, a twisted cord is used. It not only acts as a decorative decoration, but also additionally protects the premises from drafts.
Lathing and its importance in the interior decoration of a wooden house
The walls of some houses will no longer benefit from sanding. This applies to excessively old or crooked buildings. For the interior decoration of such houses, options such as drywall products, wall paneling, decorative panels, etc. are used.
The installation of any such finishing material involves the use of a frame or crate, which will level the curvature of the walls. In addition, the presence of the crate will allow air to circulate freely. For a wooden structure, this is an important factor. As a result of the natural movement of air, the material of the walls will not change color and will not rot. only dry wood is not subject to these processes. The circulating air between the walls and finishing materials will allow the wood of the walls to maintain its normal state.
The distance between the wall and the finish is also used for laying cables and wires of various communications: electricity or household appliances. Electrical wiring, by the way, in wooden houses should be installed only in pipes made of non-combustible material (corrugated stainless steel pipes are the most common). If necessary, a material providing thermal insulation is laid in the gap provided by the crate. However, if the house maintains a comfortable temperature, you should not use any additional materials. The tree itself does an excellent job of maintaining the right humidity in the room and excess materials can do harm, not good.
However, fixing finishing materials on the crate has its drawbacks. For example, if insects or rodents appear between the wall and the cladding, it will be quite difficult to eliminate them. However, before attaching the finishing materials to the wall, it will need to be leveled. An absolutely flat surface of wooden walls can be difficult to achieve, but with the right approach, it is quite possible. In order to close the gaps and cracks remaining between the wall and the cladding, special mastics are used. Once upon a time, clay was used instead, and in some places it is still used. 
Regardless of the finishing materials, it is necessary that a gap of at least 20-40 millimeters be maintained between the cladding and the ceiling. This will play the role of insurance in case of additional shrinkage of the new house. For an old structure, the gap will allow you to compensate for changes in the wooden walls. A material such as wood "breathes" throughout its life. Accordingly, it changes: it swells when it gets water, or it dries out. A gap left in time under the ceiling will allow you to leave the metamorphoses of wooden walls without consequences for facing materials. The absence of such a precaution is fraught for finishing materials with deformation or the appearance of cracks. In order for the gap not to stand out against the general background, a ceiling plinth is used, it is rigidly fixed only to the ceiling.
Lining for interior decoration of a wooden house
Manufacturers offer a variety of options for facing materials for interior decoration. However, to finish a wooden house, they often resort to lining. It allows you to preserve the overall style and atmosphere of a building made of wood. Such material can be used both for exterior decoration and for interior (only the methods of their processing differ). The lining is of various types. Moreover, we are not talking about the tree from which it is made and not about its size. The lining profile, depending on the desire of the customer, can be modified. There are wavy or even design of the material, as well as imitation of timber or logs (block house).
To finish the walls inside a wooden house, lining with a thickness of 15-20 millimeters is used. Its cost is less than that of thicker analogues, but such material fulfills its tasks. You can arrange lining boards in any order: horizontally, vertically, at an angle. Owners of remarkable patience and diligence are able to create whole pictures from lining.
When fixing the lining on the crate or on the walls, do not forget about the possible shrinkage of the house. To compensate for possible changes in wooden walls, leave a gap of 20-40 millimeters near the floor and ceiling.
Decorative wall panels
Often, decorative panels are used for interior decoration of houses and apartments. There are facings created from different materials and imitating a variety of surfaces:
- MDF panels (veneered or laminated).
- Glass panels: smooth, corrugated, colored, frosted, transparent.
- polymer panels.
- Wood or bamboo panels.
- Leather panels.
The panels also differ in size, they are produced in the form of rails that are assembled together or immediately in the form of a shield (dimensions vary). Clapboard, by the way, these are the same panels, but it stands apart. this material was used for finishing work long before the appearance of other similar products.
Decorative panels are fixed on the wall, usually with the help of a crate. The thickness and location of the bars, which depends on the type and size of the selected decorative panels. This finishing material is popular among designers and homeowners because the abundance of colors, sizes and materials allows you to create unusual, memorable interiors. Decorative panels also differ in price. For example, panels made of polymers and MDF are significantly cheaper than leather products.
Some types of panels are mounted only with glue (gypsum products), therefore, to fix them on the crate, they resort to additional slabs of GVL or plywood. They are called substrate panels and are attached to the crate in the first place. The main facing panels are already glued to them.
Drywall in a wooden house
The interior decoration of the walls with plasterboard is no different from the decoration of rooms from another material. Drywall is attached to a pre-assembled frame. True, as in other cases, it is necessary to leave a safety gap.
The main condition under which plasterboard wall decoration is allowed is the operation of the house for several years, i.e. the house must be warmed up and give the final shrinkage. This is due to the fact that drywall is fragile, and with significant changes in the geometry of the walls, it will become unusable. It is possible to ignore such metamorphoses of wall surfaces if the frame is movable. To do this, its profiles are fixed to the walls not too rigidly.
When finishing the walls with plasterboard, there is one more nuance: all butt joints and seams, as well as in the corners, the use of a reinforcing mesh is mandatory. The use of such a mesh will prevent or slow down the occurrence of cracks in problem areas.
Interior decoration of an old wooden house
If the age of the wooden house in which the finishing work is planned is several decades, then the first thing to do is to assess the safety of the wood. To do this, it will be necessary to dismantle all the old lining. After that, carefully consider all the places that differ from the general background of the wall surface in the color or texture of the pattern. If necessary, suspicious places should be checked by trying to damage them with a knife, screwdriver or chisel. If the tree everywhere has a dense structure and has no signs of mold or fungi, then you can proceed to the finishing work. In some cases, it is recommended to treat the tree with special impregnations. When applying them, remember that chemical elements are the basis of such impregnations.
However, if the material of the walls crumbles from mechanical influences, then it is necessary to identify the causes of destruction. The most likely are such options as the appearance of insects, mold and other microorganisms. Sometimes, an external specialist is invited to determine the methods of treatment for an infected section of the wall. Damaged sections of wooden walls must be dismantled and replaced; areas adjacent to these elements will need to be intensively treated with special compounds.
After assessing the condition of the walls of the old house, and carried out, if necessary, repair work, you can proceed to the interior decoration. Work on the design of the premises of an old wooden house is carried out in the same manner as described above. The only difference is that the safety gap should not be left.
Some building materials from which walls are erected immediately imply the need for exterior decoration of the house: the picture is very unsightly. Others may lose their appeal over time. And the third case is extensive fissure formation, which is “treated”, but the results remain visible. In all these cases, the question arises: "How to sheathe the house from the outside." Moreover, most often it is required to “sheathe” - without the use of a solution or other similar means that require a lot of money and time. I want to do everything quickly and, very preferably, inexpensively, and even, if possible, with my own hands. Oddly enough, but the choice of materials and technologies is, and considerable.
Fundamental rules
When choosing materials for cladding a house from the street, be sure to remember that in order to maintain normal humidity in the premises, the vapor permeability of materials must decrease from inside the room to the outside. That is, the exterior finish should conduct steam better than the material of the walls. Then the increased humidity, which is typical for our homes, will be removed through the walls in a natural way (explanations in the photo).
If this principle is violated, moisture will accumulate at the boundary of materials with different vapor permeability. It condenses, creating conditions for decay, the development of fungi and mold. In winter, it freezes, destroying the material of the wall and / or decoration. Sooner or later, such a system will have to be dismantled and redone.
The trouble is that only wood meets this requirement. Most of the other materials for the exterior of the house has a low vapor permeability. The problem is solved in two ways:
Today, the second option is becoming more and more popular. Very effective heat-insulating materials have appeared that allow to reduce heating costs by several times. But they have very low vapor permeability (expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam). When using them, only the second humidity control scheme is possible. When choosing how to sheathe a house, consider these points.
wood paneling
Wood in construction and decoration has been used for centuries, and it looks like it will be relevant for a long time to come. All thanks to the excellent appearance and the ability to regulate the humidity in the room. This is perhaps the only material that will easily remove excess moisture, no matter what material the walls are built from.
Wooden sheathing can have a completely non-standard look: different colors and sizes, different directions. It's simple and the effect is amazing
The most popular wall cladding materials are block house and timber imitation. There is also a lining for exterior decoration - it has a greater thickness, compared to the one intended for the rest, it is no different.
The block house imitates the surface of a rounded log - the front part has a rounded shape. Imitation of a bar is very similar to a planed bar. Both types of cladding are attached to the crate, then sanded and coated with protective impregnations, optionally varnished or painted.
What lumber looks like for exterior cladding of a house
If you can’t decide how to sheathe a house of foam blocks on the outside, consider wood cladding. In this case, a crate (metal or wooden) is nailed to the walls. If necessary, a heater is laid between the planks - basalt wool (styrofoam or polystyrene foam cannot be used), and then the wooden sheathing is nailed.
This building is sheathed with imitation timber. Under the skin there can be a brick, a log house, a frame or any of the building blocks
If you need the cheapest option, for most regions of Russia this is an ordinary planed board. Its thickness is from 40 mm, it is stuffed in the same way as a lining or a block house on a crate, the lower end of the upper board goes 10-20 mm onto the one located under it. It turns out the principle of the bump. So you can cheaply veneer a country house or even a residential one. With proper processing, such a lining has a very good appearance.
What is the cheapest way to sheathe a house outside? For central Russia - a planed wooden board
The disadvantages of such a finish are the same as for any wood: it can be damaged by pests, rot, without proper care it quickly loses its decorative effect, becomes dark and ugly. If you want to sheathe a house and not think about it for years, this is not your choice. Wood paneling requires maintenance, and, most often, annual maintenance.
Siding
In some regions, boards and other lumber are not the most affordable materials. In this case, it is cheaper. This is the option when, after finishing once, you can forget about it for a long time.
If you are thinking about how to decorate a house from a bar from the outside, perhaps your option is siding.
Since the sheathing is nailed to the crate, the facade is ventilated. If you need to inexpensively finish wooden walls (from timber, logs, shields), siding is one of the options. It can also be used for building from any other material: foam block, aerated concrete, slag filling, etc. This cover is universal.
Vinyl
Siding is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and is therefore also called vinyl siding. It is a strip of material with a width of 205 and 255 mm, a thickness of 1.1 mm and 1.2 mm. On the longitudinal edges there is a lock on one side, on the other - perforation for fasteners (self-tapping screws are more often used).
The siding is also attached to the crate. It is recommended to use a special metal one, but impregnated wooden blocks are quite suitable. Only regular starting and side lanes will be needed. The only caveat: the self-tapping screws need to be “short” a little, leaving a backlash in order to compensate for temperature changes in materials. With this installation, the siding will not crack from the stresses that have arisen.
The advantages of this material for exterior cladding of the house: low prices, easy installation.
The disadvantage of vinyl siding: it quickly fades in the sun, so it is advisable to use soft colors. It has a fairly wide operating temperature range: from +50°C to -35°C, but even in slight frosts it becomes brittle and easily damaged.
Another point: the houses sheathed with siding, which have a broken configuration, look good. If the building is rectangular, without architectural excesses, it does not have the most attractive appearance (in confirmation of the photo below).
If the building is just long, without reliefs and ledges, wall cladding with sadding will not embellish it very much.
Metal
Metal siding is a strip of thin aluminum or galvanized steel, which is coated with a protective and decorative coating. It has the same mounting system as vinyl.
Sheathing a house with metal siding is simple: you can do it yourself even without much building experience
The coating may be of polymers. Differs in reliability, resistance to burning out, other climatic factors. Its disadvantage is the limited choice of colors. The second coating option is powder coating. The color gamut is much wider, the paint lasts for years without signs of flaking.
If you are looking for something to clad the outside of the house so that the finish is reliable and bright, one of the metal siding options may suit you. It can be bent, broken very difficult, installation is not very difficult: you need good metal scissors, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver or a screwdriver. All installation features are the same as for vinyl, with the only difference being that metal can also be mounted at low temperatures.
It is not easy to harmoniously decorate a building sheathed with metal siding
From the point of view of durability, this is a good option, but from the point of view of aesthetics, it is difficult to work with it: it looks too “productive”. The building no longer looks like a residential building, but a warehouse or some kind of workshop.
basement
This is one of the varieties of vinyl siding, but it has a completely different configuration, appearance and greater panel thickness. It was developed specifically for decorating and protecting the plinths of buildings, but it was so well liked that it was also used for facade cladding. External design - for brickwork of various types and colors, with or without drawings, wild stone. Sometimes the imitation is so successful that you can understand that in front of you is not a brick cladding, but a vinyl cladding, you can only touch the wall.
Mounted, like other types, on the crate, there is perforation and locks. The difference is that the basement siding panel does not look like a long rectangle, but a certain section of the wall with curly edges. These curly edges are joined. Accordingly, the crate must be adjusted to the size of the fragment. When installing, first the edge of the panel is brought into the lock of the already installed one, matches are achieved, and then fixed. The main thing - during installation, do not tighten the screws too much, leaving the siding to move with temperature changes.
The lathing can be made of treated wooden bars (protective impregnation) or from drywall profiles (galvanized). How to mount basement siding on the base, see the video. Similarly, it is attached to the wall. Area difference.
Fiber cement boards and siding
Relatively recently, a new cladding appeared on our market: fiber cement boards and siding from the same material. They consist of wood fibre, quartz, mica, cement, may contain chlorine and asbestos (some materials used only for exterior decoration). This mixture is molded into sheets, then dehydrated in several stages, and fired using some technologies. Then a protective and decorative coating is applied to the surface:
The coating can be smooth - glossy and matte, can imitate brickwork, wood and other finishing materials. Mounted on mounting rails, fastened to the wall with clamps. This material may suit you if you do not know how to sheathe a frame house from the outside: it creates a solid surface, the panel joints are sealed and precipitation will not get inside.
This house is also lined with fiber cement boards.
How to fix fiber cement boards, see the video.
Fiber cement siding is made using the same technology, only it is molded into long strips. They are basically standard: 3600*190*12mm. This material is cut with an electric jigsaw, installed on a wooden crate with an overlap (according to the cone principle) and nailed to it or twisted with self-tapping screws.
Thermal panels
Thermal panels are a material that performs two functions at once - cladding and external insulation of houses. A layer of decorative coating is applied to the thermal insulation layer at the factory. It is similar to marble or natural stone, does not burn, has low water absorption characteristics.
This finishing material is made on the basis of foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. Depending on the type of insulation, the installation method is selected: polystyrene foam and polystyrene are glued to the appropriate composition. The joints are closed with a special aluminum bar or rubbed with paste.
Based on mineral wool, they are mounted only on a special system of profiles, the joints are also sealed.
A very attractive idea is to immediately insulate the house and revet it. Excellent appearance, and the characteristics of such a cladding are impressive. It’s just a pity that there is little operating experience and there are no reviews yet: it appeared quite recently.
There are also clinker thermal panels. Clinker tiles are glued to the insulation. The material is not cheap, but the characteristics are impressive, as is the variety of finishes.
Another option for thermal panels - with clinker tiles
The choice of materials with which you can sheathe the house at any time - in winter or summer - is considerable. There are expensive options, there are cheaper ones. In any case, in addition to cost, be sure to consider vapor permeability. Then you do not have to deal with mold and dampness.
Today, many home owners act thoughtlessly when buying material for the construction and decoration of their cloister. Everyone prefers the decorative factor, and the other criteria, which are much more important, are not even considered.
Nevertheless, when buying a finishing material, it is worth paying attention to a number of factors, especially if you plan to carry out robots on your own, without involving specialists.
Further in the article, we will tell you what material to choose for high-quality finishing of the house outside, tell you about the advantages and disadvantages, as well as the intricacies of working with specific representatives, which will allow you to make the right choice.
WET TECHNOLOGIES FOR HOME FINISHING
Wet finishing of the house outside is popular for the simple reason that it is the most budget option, relative to other types of finishes. I would also like to note that the use of this finishing method is considered folk decoration, which has a lot of disadvantages.
But, there are also exceptions, and this is classic plastering, the disadvantage of which lies only in the problematic application on your own without outside help. About all the other shortcomings that manufacturers of modern materials for finishing the building outside so often talk about, one can only say that they are far-fetched. In modern synthetic materials for construction, there are much more flaws that are very difficult to hide.
And what are modern synthetic materials? This is very common stuff that you have most likely seen at least once in your life:
Decorative plaster
By itself, plaster can be used to veneer a frame house from the outside, but if we are talking about finishing foam, then here you will encounter many disadvantages. The technology of such finishing carries a threat to human life:
- poor fire resistance;
- toxicity;
- the effect of "thermos";
- high probability of mold and fungus development, etc.
And how do the founders of such a miracle technology warn you about such “nuances”? We can say that in no way, because they call it all special requirements, which requires sufficient ventilation, a lot of protective equipment, etc.
Warm plaster
Warm plaster
This is the same material that cannot boast of its vapor permeability. But, its only difference from the previous version is fire safety. According to all other criteria, this is the same "thermos", which creates favorable conditions for the development of mold.
The safest type of warm plastering is to use a solution of cement and sand with the addition of sawdust. But, this finishing option is rarely used, because it is very vulnerable to natural factors.
I would not like to say anything negative about paints and varnishes, which are often used to finish houses outside on a wet finish. It is clear that any person absolutely does not want to load himself with repairs every year, and it is clear that paint manufacturers are trying in every possible way to help with this. But, I would like to note that most paints for decorating facades, after drying, cover the surface with a moisture-repellent film, which makes its own adjustments to the moisture exchange process. In simple terms, the walls stop “breathing” and you have to use powerful ventilation, additional heating, and then get depressed after seeing the amount in the payment for gas or electricity.
But, manufacturers do not cease to assert positive aspects when using their materials, and sell not only foam plastic blocks and plaster, but also ventilation and heating systems, etc.
HOW TO USE TILE, BRICK AND OTHER ANALOGUES IN HOUSE FINISHING?
I would like to immediately note that this is a very good option to finish the frame house. If you approach the work correctly, you will not disturb the natural course of natural processes. The only "but" is the glue used to fix the plates. When working with bricks, you can do without glue, but if you are laying tiles, this is another matter, for which it will not be enough to use a cement-sand mortar.
Modern masters in the field of construction, in order to finish a frame house, have not used such a technique for a long time, because dry building mass allows you to work faster, easier and easier. This applies to standard slabs that mimic brick or natural stone.
Things are a little different when using natural stone, which is cut under the slab. Due to the weight, such material can be fixed to the wall in 2 ways at the same time. Initially, the blocks are glued to a solution of cement and sand, after which they are fixed with anchors with a special clamp. The clamp is designed in such a way that one plate is able to hold both the top and bottom tiles. This is a very convenient technology, but it is quite expensive. It is also impossible to name the budget cost of materials and their installation.
INSTALLING A VENTILATED FACADE
Today, a ventilated facade finished with panels is the best solution to clad a frame house from the outside. There are a lot of positive qualities of this technology:
- there are no violations of natural processes;
- safe insulation of the building is carried out;
- an attractive appearance of the house is achieved.
Facing a wooden house with panels allows you to simulate natural and artificial material, namely:
- tree;
- brick;
- marble, etc.
The essence of finishing the house with ventilated material is that a small gap is left between the bearing surfaces, which provides the necessary moisture exchange. The insulation can be absolutely any mineral wool made of stone or sand.
One catch is the protective film, which is made in such a way that it allows a permissible amount of moisture to pass through.
USE OF AERATED CONCRETE IN EXTERIOR FINISHING
aerated concrete
Today, such material as aerated concrete blocks are widely used for the construction and decoration of residential buildings. This is due to the availability of the material from a financial point of view, elementary installation and a high level of thermal insulation. But, whatever one may say, there are also negative aspects: aerated concrete blocks are afraid of moisture and have an unpresentable appearance that needs to be decorated with additional building materials.
Technical features of aerated concrete blocks are shown in the table below.
| Peculiarity | Indicator |
| Dry thermal conductivity | 0.12 W/mS |
| Thermal conductivity at humidity | 0.145 W/mS |
| Frost resistance | F35 |
| fire resistance | Class A1 |
| Compressive strength | 25-50 kg/cm2 |
| Water absorption | 20% |
It’s better to specify right away that the finishing of the house with aerated concrete panels should not interfere with the diffusion process - in other words, the surfaces should “breathe”. That is why it is better not to finish the aerated concrete blocks with film paint, do not treat with cement mortar and do not attach foam plastic to the frame profile.
The best way is to finish the house with brick, plaster or textured mass or siding panels, and which option suits you best - decide for yourself.
If you decide to finish the aerated concrete blocks with bricks, get ready that such a finish has both advantages and several disadvantages.
pros brick finishes:
- attractive appearance;
- the ability to strengthen the building;
- deprivation of walls of hydrophobicity.
Brick has such limitations:
- high cost;
- problematic masonry.
Having decided to plaster blocks of aerated concrete, it is better to acquire a special plaster mass, which should be distinguished by the following features:
- the mass must pass steam;
- in the composition to have binding components;
- it is necessary to trim the frame profile with reinforcement in order to increase strength.
Using such budget finishing methods, get ready for the fact that the plaster is afraid of natural disasters that can ruin its quality and integrity. To avoid this, it is necessary to acquire a solution with special ingredients, which in turn will increase the cost of the mixture.
To date, aerated concrete blocks are most often trimmed with siding panels, because they have the following advantages:
- affordable price category;
- large color range;
- allows you to imitate any natural design;
- ease of installation work;
- moisture resistance;
- long service life;
- such a finish is not amenable to putrefactive changes;
- fire resistance;
- unpretentiousness in care.
The disadvantages include only the fact that the finish can be easily damaged by mechanical influences, but note that for this you will have to acquire heavy objects.
Well, we tried to tell you about the most popular materials for exterior decoration of the house, and which one to choose for yourself is up to you. All ventilated blocks, like any material for the construction of residential buildings, are good in their own way and most often cope with the task.
based on materials from the site: ON-FINISH.RU
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Building wooden houses will always be popular. This is due to the unique properties of the material, both operational and aesthetic. But when doing do-it-yourself construction work, you need to take into account many nuances that will affect the durability of the walls and the entire building. One of the issues that need to be addressed will be the interior decoration of a wooden house.
Finishing Features
Finishing a wooden house, carried out from the inside with your own hands, should be done only after a thorough study of the technology and methods. It is better to sheathe walls with materials that allow air to pass through well. You can also use materials that are completely sealed, but in this case the walls of the house will stop breathing.
The same rule should be considered for exterior decoration and insulation. If the wall cladding material does not allow air to pass through, the effect of a greenhouse is created in the room. In this case, a forced ventilation device will be required to ensure a normal microclimate. Such activities require additional financial investments.
Also, the interior decoration of a wooden building with your own hands should be made of relatively light materials. In this case, finishing work from the inside will not have a strong effect on the walls and foundations (the load on them will not increase significantly).
When to start
Finishing a wooden log house is possible only after the completion of its active shrinkage. If we are talking about an old house, then proceed without fear. If the walls are newly built, it is necessary to take into account the material from which they are built:
- glued laminated timber - after 3-4 months;
- ordinary timber and logs - at least after 1 year.
The exact rate of completion of shrinkage depends on the climatic features of the area. Humidity and average temperature have a strong influence. It is allowed to start finishing the internal walls from timber and logs only after they have been caulked. Do-it-yourself work is carried out in two stages:
- the first caulking of the walls must be carried out a few weeks after the assembly of the walls;
- the second is done after 6-8 months.
To caulk the walls, you will need to prepare a sealing and heat-insulating material. As it is used jute or tow. Sometimes you can use moss. It is necessary to carry out work simultaneously from the outside and from the inside. Start caulking from the bottom. Having insulated the crown on one side, you must immediately move to the other side. Otherwise, the walls may be skewed.
After completion of the insulation work, the building rises a few centimeters. Over time, the interventional material will compact, and the height will become the same. It is due to the tight fit of jute or tow to logs (beams) that drafts are prevented, and thermal insulation performance increases.
After the second caulking, it is necessary to periodically measure the height of the walls. If within a couple of months the measurement results do not change, the shrinkage process has stopped. In this case, you can start doing the finishing with your own hands.
Preparatory stage
Before starting work, it is necessary to decide whether it makes sense to clad the walls from the inside. If they are folded neatly, and the interventional insulation does not stick out of the joints, sheathing is not required. It will be cheaper and better to use paintwork products.
If the walls are uneven, and the caulk seam is unattractive, you should think about finishing. Regardless of what materials are used, it is necessary to protect the wood from fungus and mold. For this, antiseptic compounds are used.
Flame retardants are used as additional impregnation, they will increase the resistance of the material to fire.
Finish options
With your own hands, finishing a wooden house can be done in the following ways:
- clapboard (various forms);
- wall panels;
- drywall.
For all materials, you will need to make a frame on the surface of the walls. It is best made from wood. Mounting without a frame is also possible. But in this case, it is necessary to carefully align the base and eliminate all protruding elements. Sheathing on the frame is worth it for the following reasons:
- no need to level the base;
- providing a gap for air circulation and drying of the walls;
- the ability to lay heat-insulating material;
- you can hide the wiring.
The disadvantages of this method include the likelihood that insects or rodents will settle in the gap between the wall and the sheathing. Getting rid of unwanted guests in this case will be quite difficult.
Sheathing a wooden house with your own hands should be done with a small gap between the ceiling. It is necessary for leveling various deformations and shrinkages. The width is taken 2-4 cm. It is easy to close the space with a ceiling plinth.
Clapboard lining
Wall decoration in this case has the most diverse look.
The use of lining with decorative impregnation You can use material of different widths, from different types of wood. There are also types of lining depending on the transverse profile:
- standard;
- blockhouse;
- softline;
- landhouse;
- American;
- etc..
Do-it-yourself fastening of the finish to the surface of the walls is carried out in several ways:
- on nails in the face (now used less and less due to aesthetic considerations);
- on nails or screws at an angle;
- on the clamps.
The last two methods are quite laborious. Fastenings are nailed so that there is no damage to the front surface of the lining. Instead of nails and screws, a construction stapler with staples is also used. In this case, staples with long legs and a narrow back are required. Fastening elements are made of stainless steel.
The lining is made of wood, therefore, just like the wall, it can shrink.. It is better to buy chamber-drying material, but if this is not possible, the following points must be considered:
- over time, the planks of natural drying dry out, gaps appear between the finishing elements;
- you can leave the surface as it is;
- for aesthetic reasons, you can remove the lining and nail it again;
- during the initial fixing, it is necessary to take into account that the lining will have to be removed, it is important to choose what will be more convenient to work with: with nails or self-tapping screws.
When removing material from the base, care must be taken to prevent damage to the walls.
This option allows you to diversify the interior and give a unique appearance to the room. These types of finishes are very fond of designers, the flight of fancy is practically unlimited.
With the help of wall panels you can create an accent in the interior Finishing a wooden house from wall panels with your own hands can be of different types:
- wooden;
- bamboo;
- glass;
- plastic;
- leather.
Care must be taken when using glass. Such material is quite massive and can have a strong impact on the supporting structures of the building. It is not recommended to use with a small thickness of wall fencing.
Mounting is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. The cladding can be fastened either directly to the crate or to a substrate fixed to the crate. The methods are quite diverse depending on the material, before buying it is worth studying the features of each separately. We also recommend that you read articles about interior decoration,.
Application of drywall
Finishing a wooden house from drywall is a common occurrence. Wall cladding can be done quite easily, but the following rules must be observed:
- Drywall is not a durable material. It is fairly easy to damage when broken. For this reason, it is recommended to perform sheathing 2-3 years after construction. At the same time, the normal operation mode must be observed in the building (heating must be turned on).
- When cladding is installed within 1-2 years after construction, it is necessary to fix drywall on a floating frame. This way it will be possible to avoid damage: the base and finish will move independently of each other.
- To prevent or slow down the opening of cracks in problem areas, it is required to glue them with a reinforcing mesh. For work, a mesh of polymeric material is taken. The main places of reinforcement: joints, seams and corners.
Old wooden house
When performing work inside an old building, it is required to first assess the condition of the walls and take a set of protective measures. All suspicious areas on the walls are checked for strength. To do this, you can use a screwdriver, knife or chisel. Areas with the following features are recognized as suspicious:
- darker than the main surface;
- lighter than the main surface;
- different texture;
- different density.
If the wood crumbles, it is recommended to contact a specialist who, depending on the nature and extent of the damage, will suggest a further course of action. Even if there are no defects on the surface, it is required to treat the base with an antiseptic.