How to make an arch instead of a door - options and instructions for the construction of drywall. Ready-made arched kits

One way to increase living space is to remove doors. But it is not always possible or willing to destroy the walls. Then the former doorway is made out in the form of an arch. Another option for using arched openings is to divide a long corridor into zones, breaking up too simple geometry. When repairing on their own, drywall arches are most often made: they are the easiest to do with your own hands.

Types of arches

Interior or corridor arches can have a different shape. They differ mainly in the shape of the upper part and sometimes in the way they are connected to the vertical parts. Their main types are shown in the photo.

This group lacks one of the most popular lately - the semi-arch. They have a rounded corner on one side only, on the other it remains straight. Hence the name - semi-arc. It looks good in modern interiors: minimalism, hi-tech, maybe in art deco.

The classic is distinguished by the correct shape of the top. This is strictly a semicircle, the radius of which is equal to half the width of the doorway. This view looks good with an opening height of at least 2.5 m. It fits well into any interior, but looks best in a long corridor, or instead of the front door to the kitchen.

The arched opening in the Modern style is distinguished by a small radius of curvature and a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical components of the opening. It looks good if the walls and ceiling have a more or less simple design. Looks great on the site of the former balcony door, good at the entrance to the office.

The arch of the “Romance” style is rather just rounded corners (mostly masters call it that). It looks good with a large width and not the greatest height.

The "romantic" shape is good with a large width and small height

The shape of the "ellipse" is very close to the "romantic". It differs only in greater curvature in the middle part. Also suitable for low and wide openings. It just looks a little softer.

A trapezoid is a non-standard design consisting of broken lines. It is hard to play up in the interior, therefore it is used infrequently: for some non-standard designs.

One of the design options is a trapezoid

It is very similar to a regular opening, but in fact it is, only without a door leaf. For greater originality, it is often accompanied by wooden carved elements in the form of columns on the sides. In this form, it is good for classic interiors, as well as ethnic style - Greek or Roman, depending on the type of columns.

For decoration in modern styles, another example is used - next to the main arch, smaller portals are located. This technique allows you to "beat" a simple form.

Another version of the arch "portal"

Before you start making an arch, you need to decide on its parameters. select the type, and then the options: where it will start from, and what the radius of curvature will be. It can be a really sharp bend, or it can just be some rounding of the corners.

To understand how your chosen shape will look, you can cut a template out of cardboard and attach it to the doorway. Rate the effect. If everything suits you, you can make a blank according to this template. But only one - for one of the sides of the opening. The second must be done in place, otherwise it will turn out crooked.

Step-by-step instructions with photos: the fastest way

Do-it-yourself drywall arches are made in different ways. This takes the minimum amount of time. Having decided on the form, we proceed to installation. On the prepared opening - cleaned of peeling plaster and relatively leveled, we fix the frame according to the size of the future arch. It is made from a profile for drywall or a dry wooden block of a suitable size. Sometimes, if the wall is narrow, you can only pick up wood.

To begin with, we cut out a rectangle from drywall according to the size of the future arch, find its middle, mark it, and then temporarily screw it into place. We retreat from the edge of 12.5 mm - the thickness of the drywall sheet. If the adjacent walls are already plastered, add a couple more millimeters to the putty so that the surface can be leveled.

Now we take a piece of a profile or a hard corner, set aside half the width of the opening from one edge. At this place in the corner we make a hole, insert a carnation into it. We stick this nail into the middle of the doorway marked by us earlier on the sheet. It turns out a kind of compass, with which it is easy to draw a perfect line.

Arc delineator

By changing the height of the mount, you can get a more or less high arch. If you need a flatter curve, increase the length of the "compass".

Having removed the sheet, we cut out the arc along the outlined contour. This can be done with a special drywall file, a metal saw with a fine tooth for a smoother edge, a jigsaw (there will be a lot of dust). If the cut is not very even, we level it with sandpaper fixed on a grater. With this device we achieve a perfectly even curve of the shape we need. The cut out fragment of the arch - the side wall - is again fixed in place.

If everything is smooth, there are no distortions or irregularities, on the other side of the opening we attach the same drywall sheet as a few steps earlier - a rectangle or a square - depending on the shape. It must be fixed strictly vertically. Now transfer the shape of the arch to it. We take a square, at a right angle and with one side we press against the drywall, on which we transfer the arch, with the other side - to the arch. Having set the square perpendicularly, we mark a point with a pencil. We make such points along the entire arc. The more often they are made, the easier it will be to draw a line and the match will be more accurate - there will be less grinding.

Why is it so difficult and not just to make a copy of the first sheet? Because few openings are symmetrical. As a result, it is very problematic to install the second sheet so that the lines of the arch coincide.

Having noted all the points, we remove the sheet, draw a line, cut it out along it. We mount in place. Now again we take a trowel with sandpaper and now we level both edges until they completely match. One point - the trowel should be wider than the opening so that both walls of the arch are captured in one pass.

We measure the length of the arc, cut out a piece of the profile of the same length, make notches on the walls every 3-4 cm. This tape will need to be fixed along the arch of the arch from one side and the other.

We fasten it to self-tapping screws, carefully, pressing the profile and holding it with a bar, and not with your fingers: it is elementary to get into your fingers with a self-tapping screw. By the way, you need to work with a cut profile with gloves. If not, you will cut your hands for sure.

By the way, the back of the profile can be set along the edge - it’s easier to work, and then the joint will still have to be sealed. Screw the strip to the other side in the same way.

This is a bottom view - profiles are attached to the sides

There is a second way to attach the profile - to put it on a quick-setting universal glue, such as liquid nails. This method is acceptable if the width of the opening is small. With a large thickness of the arch, the adhesive may not withstand the mass of drywall, which will be attached from below.

The next step is to attach the jumpers. First, the depth of the arch is lost, 1-1.5 cm is subtracted from it. This will be the length of the jumpers. Cut pieces of a profile of this length.

Jumpers are cut from the same profile

In the places where the jumpers are attached, the “petals” are cut off, the prepared fragment is installed and fixed. It should not rest against the walls, it is located approximately 5 mm from the back. Jumpers are needed to make the design more rigid, otherwise it “walks” when pressed.

Next, from the drywall, you need to cut a rectangle that will cover the structure from below. Its width is determined simply - from the outer edge of one sheet of plasterboard, to the outer edge of the second sheet. The length is measured with a flexible tape (it can be tailor-made) or a tape measure with an assistant. We fasten this sheet with screws to the arch frame. The sheet has to be bent, and how to do this, read a little lower - towards the end of the article.

Arched opening made of drywall: the second method (photo report)

This method is good if the thickness of the partition is small: try attaching the profiles if the gap between them is several centimeters, and then attach the jumpers. It all starts the same way: the first wall of the arch is cut out, fastened and transferred to the second sheet.

After the width of the gap between the two sheets, wooden crossbars are cut out, which are attached along the edge of the arch to self-tapping screws.

The cut-out strip of drywall is fixed, starting from one side. To make it more convenient, you can fix it with clamps, since the thickness of the wall is small. When attaching the strip, you can focus on the screws with which the bars were screwed. That way you'll hit the crossbar for sure.

Then it remains only to fix a special perforated corner along the corner and level the irregularities.

A corner is attached along the vault of the arch, everything is puttied

It is also more convenient to level the dried putty along the arch of the arch with the entire plane of sandpaper fixed on a grater. It is unpleasant that dust falls into the eyes, so it is almost impossible to work without glasses.

How to make an arch instead of a door: the third method - typesetting

Another way to make drywall arches with your own hands is stacking. The vault is broken into segments and assembled from pieces that create close to the required curvature.

They are attached to putty, diluted with a mixture of PVA and water. Such a batch dries quickly, so first we cut the plates and try them on. It can be folded on the table, only the vault will turn upside down, but it will allow you to evaluate how correctly the plates are assembled.

Then the plates begin to be attached to the opening, for reliability, periodically reinforcing with self-tapping screws. Washers are placed under the heads - so as not to push through the cardboard. Remove excess putty immediately. If it gets stuck, it's impossible to tear it off. The finished surface is primed to improve adhesion (adhesion), and then puttied, leveling the arch. To make it easier to display, you can use a template attached on both sides.

Making sharp bends using this technology is not easy, and for rounded corners and semi-arches it is a great way to do without profiles.

How to bend drywall

One important detail: standard wall drywall does not bend well. For curved surfaces, a thin one was specially invented - 6 and 6 mm thick. This bent part is easier to make from it. With a slight curvature, such a thin sheet can be bent easily and without tricks. If there is no desire to buy thin GVL, there are two ways to bend the standard one.

First- take a needle roller and roll the cut segment well on one side. You need to roll with effort so that the plaster breaks. Then the leaf is wetted with water and left for two to three hours. After such procedures, it should bend well. Take it, fix it on one side, and gradually pressing it against the arch frame, bend it, screwing it gradually along the edges with self-tapping screws. The method is not bad, only with a lack of experience and insufficient processing of gypsum, the sheet may burst. You will either have to mask the gap later, or start over.

Second way to bend drywall: on one side, make notches with a knife about every 4-5 cm. The notches should cut the paper. Such a strip is also gradually fixed, breaking the gypsum as necessary. It bursts along the incision lines from a light pressure.

Related videos

Laminate successfully competes with other floor coverings due to a good ratio of quality and cost. Plus, laying a laminate with your own hands is not very difficult, and modern varieties of material allow you to carry it out even without a partner.

How to choose the right laminate

The laminate has certain standard characteristics regulated by the European standard EN 13329. So, depending on which room the coating will be installed in, it should be selected according to the class.

Class

There are the following classes of laminate:

It is important to understand that the information on the coating class indicated on the packaging can only be trusted if the manufacturer is a member of the EPLF (European Producers of Laminate Flooring).

When buying a laminate, you should also pay attention to its resistance to moisture. This indicator is determined by the characteristics of the main part of the laminate board, HDF-board. The denser this plate, the less the material will absorb moisture and the longer the interlocks will last. If you choose flooring for the kitchen, then it must be moisture resistant. On packages with such a laminate, a drop and an umbrella or a drop and a tap are depicted and there is an inscription "Aqua-Protect".

Environmental friendliness of the material

Another important point is the amount of formaldehyde emitted by the coating. In the manufacture of laminated planks, formaldehyde resins are used as a binder, the vapors of which are harmful to health in certain doses. If the designation E1 is affixed to the characteristics of the coating, this means that the amount of formaldehyde emitted by the material is within the normal range. The designation E2 indicates that it is better to refuse such material.

If, after opening the package with a laminate, you feel a strong chemical smell, it is better to return such material back to the store. According to the regulations, the planks should emit only a slight smell of sawdust.

It is important to understand that European manufacturers are more strict in terms of formaldehyde content than Chinese ones.

fire resistance

When choosing a coating, pay attention to the degree of fire resistance. This indicator is regulated by the DIN 5510 and DIN 4102 standards: the designation B1 indicates that you have a difficult-to-ignite material in front of you.

Required Tools

To work, you will need the following tools:

1. rubber mallet
2. Electric jigsaw. If not, then you can use a metal saw to get smooth edges.
3. Expansion wedges - to create gaps near walls
4. Square - to determine the length of panel fragments

Surface preparation rules

Laminate flooring can be installed on wooden plank floors, concrete subfloors and even on old parquet. The main condition is that the surface must be even, otherwise the planks will play, as a result, their locks will break and cracks will appear in the floor.

If the plank floor sags and creaks in some places, then the boards should be attached to the logs lying on the floor using self-tapping screws. After that, the surface should be leveled by laying a sheet of chipboard or fiberboard on it.

The thickness of the sheet should be at least 12 mm, then it will provide proper support for the laminate, preventing it from bending under the weight of people and furniture.

Concrete floors can be leveled with a self-levelling compound. The second option is the laying of cement-bonded particle boards, under which building boards are mounted, aligned along and across with the help of a level. To align the boards, put pieces of plywood under them and check the horizontal level in two directions. The boards should be attached to the floor base, and the DSP should be fixed on the boards with self-tapping screws.

Laminate installation step by step

Before laying the laminate, it is necessary to lay a substrate that provides heat, noise and waterproofing. It is recommended to use a sheet substrate based on extruded polystyrene foam, since a white rolled one loses its properties over time. It is more convenient to lay the substrate in stages, as the coating is laid.

Before installation, the laminate must undergo “adaptation” - put the packages with it in the room where the coating will be laid, and leave it there for two days.

A gap of 10 mm should be left between the coating and the wall. Laminated planks are made from wood and are subject to seasonal expansion. If the gaps are not observed, over time the coating may rise at the joints. So, press the expansion wedges against the wall, and then lay the laminate close to them.

The most common pavement pattern is straight: it is economical, because the cut off part of the board of the previous row is used as the beginning of the next. The coating should be laid along the direction of light, then the joints of the elements will be less noticeable.

To get started, take a look at the illustrations that we have prepared:

Lay the first row, connecting the ends of the planks to each other with a rubber mallet. Hit the front side of the bar (but never the locking part), in this case you will not need to use the mounting bracket and tamping bar. When laying subsequent rows, proceed as follows:

1. At 45 degrees, insert the locking part of the element to be laid into the groove of the first row and press the laminate to the floor.
2. After that, there will be a gap between the panels, and the elements will be in different horizontal planes. After uniform blows with a mallet, the gap will go away, the panels will be in the same plane.
3. The connection of the ends of the elements is done simultaneously with the longitudinal connection, which simplifies the installation process as much as possible.
4. Longitudinal connection of the boards can be performed in any direction, which is especially important when assembling the floor diagonally.
5. At the last stage, remove the wedges and mount the skirting boards.

Laminate installation video guide

Installation of laminate in doors and around pipes

Possible laying errors

Before laying the laminate with your own hands, it is important to understand what actions are erroneous so that later the work does not have to be redone. What should not be done when installing laminated panels:

• Use glue to connect the parts - subsequently the structure cannot be disassembled if it is necessary to replace the damaged planks.
• Laying boards without first considering their pattern. Planks with the same pattern stacked next to each other look ugly.
• Mount the laminate on an uneven surface. Over time, the locks will break and the floor will come apart.

Lock types:

Another important nuance is that in order to “fit” the coating to the junction of the casing and the plinth, it is necessary to reduce the gap between the laminate and the wall.

Care rules

In order for the coating to serve for a long time and look perfect, it is important not only to lay the laminate correctly, but also to take care of it properly. The rules of care are simple and look like this:

• Daily care consists of dry cleaning: the coating should be vacuumed or brushed.
• Wet cleaning is done with a well-wrung cloth or a mop with a microfiber nozzle.
• To remove stubborn stains, use special laminate cleaners recommended by the laminate manufacturer.

To avoid damage to the material, do not use abrasives and alkalis to clean it, as well as compounds that are not recommended by the coating manufacturer.

If you follow all the nuances of laying the laminate, you will get an inexpensive and beautiful floor covering that will delight you with its ideal look for more than one year.

Arched doorways are a great architectural technique that can visually divide a room without installing doors. Thus, you can get away from the standard solutions that are used in construction.

Arches have a round or lancet shape and serve to change the interior, as well as its visual expansion. During the design of the doorway, you can use the ready-made elements of the arch and simply install them.

In the article we will talk about how to properly make a plywood arch with our own hands, we will demonstrate photo and video instructions.

In order to convert a plywood doorway into an arched one, you will need to measure the height of the ceiling, the size of the opening, and the thickness of the wall. This data is used in the development of the sketch.

It is quite possible to make an arch with platbands, with pilasters imitating columns from plywood, but one must take into account the mandatory presence of special tools and the ability to use them.

There are several ways to make an arch yourself. Read about them below.

First way

Consider a simpler way, for which you need the most common tool that is in any home, as well as the most affordable materials:

• plywood sheet, the width of which is equal to the width of the future structure;
• mounting foam;
• self-tapping screws, fasteners;
• dry mix.

The idea is very simple:

• Plywood must be moistened, then it becomes pliable, and it is much easier to work with it (if it is not moistened, it will jump out and it will be more difficult to install it).
• After the sheet is wet, the plywood must be bent into a roll (it turns out the coveted semicircle) and placed in the opening. The edges should be sharpened at an angle so that the base does not stand out against the general background, after covering with a decorative finish.

• After installing the semicircle of the arch in the doorway, the sheet must be fixed, and if necessary, the corners should be sealed to the same plane of the walls.
• Having done this work, spacers must be inserted on the right and left, then the plywood will approach the semicircle.
• The corners can be closed with plasterboard inserts, but you can also use an easier way - fill with mounting foam. The foam tends to burst, which plays into our hands, making the shapes of the bends even.
• When the foam has dried, the excess must be cut off, then the wall is perfectly smooth. Then the surface of the cut foam must be treated with putty, which is designed to level the walls and prepare them for painting or wallpapering.
• Then you can start directly decorative finishing work.

If desired, you can protect the decorative corners using a plastic protective corner. Such material can be found in various colors and in a variety of designs.

Take a sheet of paper or cardboard and draw an arc of the arch. Fold two sheets of plywood together, apply the resulting arch contours and carefully saw out a semicircle with a jigsaw. Clean the edges of the drank so that there are no chips or splinters. Sheets on both sides of the opening must be attached with dowels.

Plywood semicircles installed in the doorway form a void. There are several options for completing them. Can be installed across:

• boards;
• lining;
• narrow wooden slats;
• thin plywood;
• Fiberboard (wood fiber board).

If the lining or slats are varnished, it will turn out quite decorative.

Under wallpaper or painting, the gaps between the boards must be puttied and plastered, then the inner surface of the arch will become smooth.

In order for the arch in the opening to be absolutely smooth, you can apply a grid for plaster. On sale there is a dissolving plaster tape, which, after applying the solution, dissolves and the surface becomes even and smooth.

The third production method

This option is more complex and requires special skills and a special tool. You will need the following tools:

• manual milling machine;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver

Make vertical posts. Any platband is used, even from MDF.

Using wooden platbands with a thickness of 16 millimeters, make grooves for the thickness of the plywood with a hand mill with a thin finger cutter, while indenting 4-6 millimeters from the front edge.

The depth of the groove should be approximately 6-8 millimeters, and the width of the groove can be 4-6 millimeters (when using a thinner casing, difficulties arise when mounting the arched lintel from above).

Install in the grooves made and glue the plywood. In order to make the upper part of the arch, you need to take a sheet of paper or cardboard and draw an arc of the arch. We apply the resulting contour to a joiner's shield 16 millimeters thick and cut out two platbands with a jigsaw.

In the platbands, we make grooves for the thickness of plywood with a manual milling cutter with a thin finger cutter and fasten them together on spikes. Plywood is also installed and glued into the grooves made. To join the arch and vertical posts, install two dowels in the upper part, and close the outer assembly site with a cornice, which must be made from the same profile as the plinth.

Thus, you have figured out the independent manufacture of a plywood arch and you can safely bring this idea to life.

Arching a wall niche, window or interior opening allows you to transform any interior. However, the arch acquires a decorative value only with the right finishing material and the competent execution of installation work.

For decorative arches, a huge variety of materials is used, each of which has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

natural wood

Arches finished with natural wood give the room a certain amount of solidity, style and nobility, harmoniously combined with any interior design, be it classic, hi-tech or modern.

The undoubted advantages of wood structures are:

• environmental friendliness;
• the uniqueness of the pattern formed by annual rings;
• high strength characteristics characteristic of hardwood varieties, including mahogany, oak, walnut, ash;
• maintaining a presentable appearance for many years.

However, solid wood construction also has a number of disadvantages:

• low indicators of moisture resistance;
• tendency to deformation in conditions of high humidity, sudden temperature changes and other similar factors;
• the large weight of individual structural elements makes it difficult to carry out installation on their own;
• high price.

As a rule, the decoration of arches with precious wood is carried out by manufacturing a finished structure to order, followed by installation by the company's specialists.

MDF panels

An almost equivalent alternative to natural wood are MDF panels, the manufacture of which is based on pressing wood chips. Depending on the top coating, MDF panels are distinguished:

• laminated. The resulting boards are covered with a PVC film that imitates the texture of wood and increases the strength of the product;

• veneered. Finished slabs are pressed with a thin layer of wood, after which the front side of the product is covered with a protective varnish.

Veneered panels differ from laminated materials in higher cost and better performance.

Advantages of MDF panels in relation to natural wood structures:

• environmental friendliness due to the absence of harmful substances and compounds in the composition of the product;
• resistance to temperature changes, moisture;
• ease of installation due to the low weight of the panels;
• low cost.

Despite a lot of positive aspects, MDF panels are inferior to arches decorated with real wood:

• ease of damage through point impact;
• under the influence of sunlight gradually lose their original shade;
• a short operating period, rarely exceeding 5-7 years.

Decorating interior arches with MDF panels with low traffic increases the service life for several years, while maintaining the original appearance of the structure.

Cork for finishing

The interior arches look original, the decoration of which is made using cork material, presented:

• panels. The basis of the products is pressed cork, on top of which a thin veneer impregnated with wax is placed. The minimum thickness of cork panels is 3 mm.

• Roll products, the structure of which is similar to cork panels, with the only difference being that not all product series are wax impregnated. In this case, the roll material can have a diverse range of colors by coloring the front and/or back layer.

• Wallpaper consisting of a paper base and a thin sheet of veneer glued to the base. Quite often, cork wallpapers have a self-adhesive layer, greatly simplifying installation work.

• resistance to point impacts;
• prevent the accumulation of dust;
• do not lose their original shade over a long period;
• have antibacterial characteristics, preventing the formation of mold;
• the service life is 10-20 years.

• non-waxed coatings are quickly deformed in conditions of high room humidity;
• ability to absorb odors;
• high price.

When choosing a cork material, it is worth giving preference to a waxed coating.

Wallpaper for the arch

Decorating arches with wallpaper is one of the most popular and, at the same time, budget option due to a number of advantageous features relative to other finishing materials, including:

• variety of colors, textures, ornaments;
• ease of sticking;
• the possibility of carrying out wet cleaning using non-aggressive detergents;
• affordable cost.

Disadvantages:

• ease of damage both during gluing and during operation;
• fading over a short period of time;
• fragility.

When choosing canvases, you should give preference to plain non-woven, vinyl, bamboo or glass wallpapers. Perhaps the presence of a small or abstract pattern that does not require alignment with the ornament on the wallpaper, which is pasted over the walls adjacent to the arch.

Arch tile

Arch tiling is a less common, but still in demand method.

• a wide range of colors;
• high resistance to moisture;
• preservation of original characteristics for many years;
• ease of care;
• duration of operation.

• the considerable weight of the tile requires a solid arched structure;
• the complexity of work that requires certain skills or the involvement of specialists;
• high price.

The best choice is narrow tiles of small size, which minimize waste during the facing work.

Decorative rock

In recent years, the decoration of the arch with decorative stone, which is perfectly combined with other building materials, has gained particular popularity. Artificial stone is made from expanded clay, pumice, cement with the addition of mineral pigments, the combination of which makes it possible to achieve a full-fledged imitation of any natural stones.

Advantages:

• a wide selection of shades, textures;
• high resistance to damage;
• moisture resistance;
• ease of care during operation;
• durability.

Disadvantages:

• big weight;
• complexity of installation;
• high price.

Along with tiles, it is preferable to veneer the arch with small stones, which will greatly facilitate installation in the vaulted part of the structure.

Mosaic for the arch

Decorating the arch with mosaics is a rather painstaking process, which, upon completion of the work, results in a bewitching spectacle.

Advantages of the mosaic:

• variety of sizes, shapes and colors;
• moisture resistance;
• high strength;
• wear resistance;
• durability.

Disadvantages:

• duration and complexity of work;
• high price.

Currently, metal, ceramic, glass and other types of mosaics are produced, so it will not be so difficult to choose the option that matches the style of the interior.

Decorative plaster

Almost the only material that allows you to create a unique masterpiece, showing a little imagination and creativity. Decorative plaster is implemented in the form of a dry and ready-mix. In this case, the dry mixture is diluted with ordinary water in the proportion indicated on the instructions attached to the composition.

• the ability to create an arbitrarily expressive or smoothed relief;
• ease of application;
• the possibility of repeated staining with special paints;
• there is no need for careful leveling of the surface before applying the plaster;
• low cost.

• ease of mechanical damage;
• the impossibility of carrying out wet cleaning;
• repair of the damaged area will remain noticeable;
• relatively short operating period.

Finishing arches in an apartment with decorative plaster is a universal method that requires a small amount of time and a minimum of skills.

Regardless of the material chosen, before starting finishing work, it is necessary to carefully prepare the work surface so as not to spoil the final result with decor that has fallen off with plaster or protruding unevenness.

Surface preparation for finishing

The reliability of fixing the finishing material largely depends on the conscientiousness of the preparation of the working surface, during which it is necessary:

• remove areas protruding by more than 1 cm, as well as poorly adhering putty, paint;
• docking seams, if the arch is made of drywall sheets, cover with sickle;
• prime the surface;
• level the working base with putty;
• primed.

After the primer mixture has completely dried, you can proceed to the installation work.

arch finishing technology

The process of finishing the arched opening with panels, wallpaper, stone and other materials is somewhat different.

Paneling

Finishing the arch in the apartment by means of panels made of MDF, plastic, cork is possible in the absence of strongly rounded structural elements. Installation of selected materials is carried out with glue or with a crate device.

Mounting on glue is carried out as follows:

• make a thorough surface preparation;
• mark and cut off excess parts of the panels before using the adhesive composition;
• liquid nails or glue specially selected for the material used are applied to the wrong side of the panel in a zigzag strip;
• apply the panels to the surface and level them;
• after 5-10 minutes, after the glue polymerizes, tap on the surface of the panel with a rubber mallet, controlling the horizontal level with a building level.

Mounting on the crate does not require leveling the surface and looks like this:

• in the opening of the arch, a crate is constructed from wooden bars or metal guides, which is fixed to the surface with dowels;
• at the top and bottom of the battens, starter guides for mounting panels are screwed with self-tapping screws;
• panels cut to size are installed in the starting guides and fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate.

At the end of the finishing, the ends of the arch must be ennobled by gluing special corners from the same finishing material.

Wallpaper finishing

Wallpapering technology depends on the type of wallpaper.

For thin wallpaper without using plastic corners:

• a strip of wallpaper is glued onto the wall adjacent to the arch so that the edges of the canvas protrude 2-3 cm beyond the boundaries of the arch;
• on a protruding allowance, zigzag cuts are made every 2 cm and the resulting tongues of the canvas are folded onto the inner surface of the arch, carefully rolling with a roller;
• similarly, the walls are pasted on the other side of the arch;
• cut out a strip of wallpaper, the dimensions of which correspond to the width and length of the inner arch of the arch;
• pasting the inner surface of the arch is carried out from the bottom up, rolling it well with a roller to get rid of air bubbles.

If the length of one strip of wallpaper is not enough, then the junction of two strips is located in the center of the arch. If it is necessary to use 3 strips of wallpaper, the joints are determined at the level of connection of the arc of the arch with vertical planes.

When using textile or vinyl wallpaper with framing:

• glued wallpaper on the walls adjacent to the arch is cut along the borders of the arch;
• cut out a strip of wallpaper according to the dimensions of the inner surface of the arch and paste it;
• if necessary, cut off the excess with a clerical knife;
• after 2-3 days, when the glue dries, the selected type of corner is fixed along the protruding elements of the arch.

Cork wallpapers are glued similarly to non-woven ones, with the only difference being that ready-made acrylic or contact glue is used, which is applied both to the rolled wallpaper and to the surface to be glued.

Decorative stone or tile

As a rule, stone cladding is carried out not only in relation to the arched opening, but also to parts of the walls adjacent to the opening by symmetrical or asymmetric placement.

The order of preparatory measures:

• notches are made on a previously puttied and primed surface to improve the adhesion of the material to the surface;
• stones intended for installation are laid out on the floor and the most advantageous combination of relief, pattern, overflow is selected;
• using a metal brush, clean the wrong side of the material from foamy bumps.

The opening is finished using cement mortar or liquid nails from the bottom up. At the same time, the walls adjacent to the arch are initially lined:

• glue is applied to the wall and stone, not exceeding a layer of 1 cm, otherwise the tile will slide down;
• the first stone is laid at the junction of the arched opening and the wall;
• a second stone is laid on top of the first, shifting it towards the opening by the thickness of the stone;
• the alternation of masonry is repeated to the intended level, which avoids sloppy corners and the use of framing elements in the form of corners, skirting boards and other elements;
• finishing inside the arched opening is also overlapped.

To finish the top of the vault:

• dry tile / stone is applied to the intended place of gluing; The excess line is marked with a pencil, along which it is drawn several times with a construction knife;
• break off the unnecessary part with pliers;
• burrs and irregularities are removed with a file and sandpaper.

After 1-2 days after the end of the facing work, they begin to grout the seams:

• the construction syringe is filled with grout;
• to obtain a pronounced relief, the joints are filled, not reaching the upper edge of the stone by 3-4 mm;
• to obtain a smooth relief, the seam is filled at the same level with the upper border of the stone;
• after 30-40 minutes, the filled seams are smoothed with a special spatula or spatula, getting rid of irregularities.

Tiling is done in a similar way to decorative stone.

Mosaic finish

It is easier and faster to veneer the arch with mosaics assembled in small matrices. Fixing individual modules into matrices is carried out using paper, on which the mosaic is laid face down, and a fine mesh, which serves as the basis for gluing the modules with the wrong side down. Since the mosaic is made from various materials, a transparent adhesive is used for mounting transparent modules, and white for opaque ones.

The process of finishing the arch with mosaics is as follows:

• Applying the matrix, mark the area of ​​the working surface into separate segments according to the matrix dimensions.
• Adhesive is applied to the wall with a notched trowel to accommodate a single matrix.
• The set of modules is carefully sunk into the adhesive composition, preventing the adhesive from getting on the front surface of the mosaic and correcting the horizontal position of the matrix with a building level.
• Similarly, repeat the laying of all the necessary elements.
• After the adhesive solution has set, the protective layer of the mosaic is removed.
• Grouting is carried out in the vertical and horizontal direction with a rubber spatula.
• An hour after applying the grout, remove excess mortar by moving the spatula in diagonal directions.

At the end of the work, the mosaic must be wiped with a damp sponge to remove traces of grout, without making any special efforts in order to avoid washing it out of the joints.

In the process of finishing the arch with your own hands, it is necessary to control the horizontality of all matrix modules, therefore it is better for a person who is unsure of his abilities to entrust the work to a professional specialist.

Finishing with decorative plaster

With the use of decorative plaster, the decoration of the arch, the photo of which is presented below, is carried out in a fairly short time as follows:

• A small layer of plaster is applied to a pre-prepared surface.
• By means of a grater, sponge and other improvised means, a pattern and relief of the future surface are formed.
• With insufficiently pronounced relief, plaster is added in the right places only after the first layer has dried. To give a decorative effect, it is often necessary to apply several layers of plaster.

Upon completion of work and thorough drying of the surface (1-2 days), the arch is painted, varnish or other protective coating is applied.

More clearly you can see the decoration of the arch video:

Application of corners

No matter how strong the material is chosen for finishing the arch and the walls adjacent to it, but the protruding parts of the structure begin to wear out, fade, peel off after a rather short period, because the corners of the arch are subjected to heavy loads. The use of skirting boards and corners made of MDF, plastic, wood and other materials as an additional frame will help to extend the period of decorative finishing, which allows not only to protect the finishing material, but also to hide the cracks, chips, and irregularities formed during the installation process.

The installation of the corners is carried out by means of glue or liquid nails, which are applied to the inside of the material at the end of the finishing. At the same time, the decoration of the arch with a corner begins with the sidewalls and ends with the vaulted part.

Additional elements in the form of corners, skirting boards should be chosen a few shades darker or lighter than the main finish in order to more clearly emphasize the shape of the arch.

Decorative decoration of arches takes a lot of time and requires special care. Compliance with all stages of finishing with one or another material and slowness during the installation work will result at the end of the finishing of the arch into a wonderful interior element that will delight the owners of the house and their guests for a long time.

How to make an arch with your own hands? This question worries many who dared to make the design of the interior opening on their own.

A do-it-yourself door arch made with your own hands will make you proud of yourself, thereby allowing you to bring something original and unique into the interior of a room or bedroom. Despite the fact that many beginners are tormented by vague doubts, in fact there is nothing terrible in this work, the main thing is desire. If you have one, our detailed work plan will help you!

What is an arch and its varieties

The arch is an ancient architectural element that is increasingly being used as an internal decorative element of an entrance or interior door, or rather a doorway. The arch is a universal opening in the wall, which is able to give "volume" to a small room, and at the same time, zone an apartment of a small square.

Taking into account the wishes of the owners of the home, thanks to the arches, designers can turn different ideas into reality, giving the doorway a different look. Today, modern materials allow arches to be given various geometric shapes, as well as to form intricate vaults. Most often, for the manufacture of arches and their cladding, they use:

• Brick.
• Wooden beam.
• plywood.
• Tiles.
• GKL, etc.

The structure of the arch is a support for partitions and walls. But, since the doorways in high-rise buildings are not load-bearing, the only requirement that is put forward for them is to withstand their own weight (with a finishing finishing material). If the wall is load-bearing, the material must be selected according to external loads.

Any version of the arch, which is mounted instead of a door, performs an exclusively decorative function. The frame of the structure can even be made of a light profile for fiberboard or chipboard, and a wooden beam can also be used. The only important point is the reliable fixation of the partition so that the decor does not fall off and deform after a few days.

As we noted, the design of the house can be beautifully supplemented with an arch, because there is a huge variety of its forms. They can be made in a classic or romantic style. Modern is also often used. No less popular is the elliptical shape, trapezoid, "portal" and many others.

The first example is made as a regular semi-arch, in the form of a semicircle. In the last photo you can see a square interior opening, called the "portal". This design method is performed with strict observance of rectangular outlines. All other samples are intermediate variations between the two basic forms.

But, these are not all options. You can also experiment with side supports, use curved posts, etc. You can finish the shape and decorate it in different styles, the main thing is that the passage harmoniously fits into the home interior. In some apartments, the classics and a round, correctly bent vault look great, in others - portals, it all depends on the taste preferences of the owners. Pay attention to the advice of experienced finishers:

1. Classic arches are best done in apartments with high ceilings, at least 3 m.
2. In panel-type high-rise buildings, it is better to frame the doorway in modern style.
3. It is preferable to decorate wide doorways from the corridor to the hall in a romantic style, for which wide racks are selected.
4. The finishing of the “portal” opening goes well with the interior of the room, which uses clear lines. "Portal" is ideal for houses that are made of clapboard, logs or timber. This combination is very elegant and harmonious.

What materials can be used to form arches?

To make an arched vault, you need to stock up on the following material:

• Drywall sheets.
• Plywood.

It is worth noting that it is best to sheathe the frame with drywall sheets, because in the future it can be decorated with various decorative materials. But, if you need to create a more sophisticated shape, choose plywood sheets, as it bends better. The preparation of the arched frame is formed from:

• Metal profile.
• Wood beams.

But, for the construction of the arch, you can also take concrete, aerated concrete and brick, which are decorated with a finishing material. Despite the fact that such structures are solid, it is forbidden to build them in high-rise buildings due to their large weight. It is also forbidden to make a metal door frame, which, moreover, will cost a pretty penny. And how to make an arch in an apartment with your own hands from metal? After all, this is a very laborious process that requires the use of specialized devices. That is why drywall is the most acceptable material for finishing apartments.

How to make an interior arch. Step by step instructions (video)

How to make an arch out of wood?

Do-it-yourself wooden arch, or rather a wooden frame, is formed without much effort. But, in addition to wood blocks, sheets of plywood will also come in handy. The first thing to do is to measure the width of the passage, subtract the thickness of the materials, after which we get the optimal thickness of the wooden beams. Then an arc is drawn on plywood, which is cut out with a jigsaw.

Subsequent installation is carried out with self-tapping screws (5 cm), which fix the bars to plywood. The arch in the doorway is also fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at a distance of 15cm. The final stage is the fixation of the 2nd plywood wall and its subsequent sheathing with drywall sheets. Note that you need to fix drywall sheets with special self-tapping screws for working on drywall.

We mount an arch from plywood

How to make an arch with your own hands from wood without using natural material? Today it is not difficult, because the tree can be replaced with plywood. In order to correctly calculate the amount of materials needed, including fittings, the first thing experienced finishers do is create a sketch.

To work with plywood, you will need such a handy tool:

• Jigsaw (or hacksaw).
• Drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Sandpaper.
• Finishing accessories.

Since plywood is a fairly unique material that allows you to create original and unusual shapes, you need to work with it, following the step-by-step instructions:

1. Measure the doorway and note how big the arch will be.
2. Then you need to cut the strip and carefully process it.
3. The resulting strip is slightly moistened and left for a while.
4. After the manipulations done, the plywood will be pliable and will easily take the necessary shape.
5. The prepared bar is bent in the right way and immediately inserted into the required doorway, carefully fixed and spacers are installed in the corners.

Formation of an arch from plywood. After the canvas is installed, you need to wait a bit until the sheet is completely dry and takes its final form. At the next stage, you can act in two scenarios:

• Form inserts from wooden bars and sew up the surface with drywall.
• Use mounting foam, filling voids with it.

Plasterboard arch installation

Working with drywall, like with plywood, is very similar and does not cause difficulties, but it is cheap. If you have the opportunity to build walls and form an arch at the same time, this way you can finish the job as quickly as possible. Before forming an arch, you need to gradually prepare the surface, namely:

• Dismantle the old door panel, decorative trims, platbands and other fittings.
• Close up all the damage on the walls to avoid trouble in the future.
• Get tools.
• Draw up a detailed work plan and sketch.

You can install a drywall arch in different ways, then we will describe each method in more detail. The first option is the most popular:

• Take 2 sheets of drywall, one of which is cut in half.
• A U-shaped frame is formed in the doors using a metal profile.

• One segment is fixed on the frame, having previously marked it into 2 equal parts and marking the center.
• A hole is drilled in the rail from the edge and in the center. The distance between them should be equal to the middle of the arc of the formed arch. To do this, determine what distance will be observed between the edges of the semicircle.
• Then a curved line is applied, with the help of which the hole in the middle of the rail is connected to the center of the segment of the drywall sheet, which is fixed on the frame. Immediately it is worth checking whether the height of such an opening is suitable.
• Then the sheet is removed and the excess is cut off, after which it is again fixed to the frame.
• The second sheet of drywall is installed on the opposite side. Taking the corner and the first segment (like a stencil), transfer the dimensions of the arc. Next, cutting the arc and fixing it is repeated in the same way.
• After the work done, a void is obtained in which the frame is mounted. To do this, the profile is cut and bent. The resulting structure is fixed to the racks and drywall. It is also worth installing jumpers for reliability and structural strength.

• Next, the necessary strip is cut out, bent, and deep cuts are made from the inside. It is necessary to fix without haste, with gentle movements.
• That's it, the arch is formed. The only thing left to do is to paste over the wallpaper or paint it in the desired colors.

The second way is much more difficult. The masonry is formed using the following technology:

• Pieces of drywall are fixed from the corners on both sides with a mixture of PVA glue and water.
• Drywall is cut so that each next fragment is smaller than the previous one.
• Work continues until the smallest fragment is installed.
• Self-tapping screws or anchors are used as additional fixation.

This is just a preparatory process. Further it will be even more difficult. The next step will require plaster and putty. Large expansions and other defects are sealed with plaster, and a smooth arc is created with a putty mortar. This is a rather painstaking work that requires a firm and experienced hand of the master, so it is better for a beginner to immediately purchase template blanks.

Step-by-step instruction

If you decide to install the arch in the hallway, in the kitchen or on the balcony, follow the recommendations below:

• Dismantle the old door and platbands.
• Expand the doorway to the desired size.
• Trim the walls and close up any defects.
• If the design is backlit, run the wiring.
• Take all measurements in different places to minimize errors.
• For uneven walls, choose the depth of the arch in the thickest place.
• Do not be too lazy to make a life-size sketch (this will allow not only to install the arch as accurately as possible, but also to pre-evaluate how the arch will look like).
• You need to start work on installing the supporting frame in the following sequence:
• Along the perimeter of the doorway, create the main contour from the profile and fix it on the wall.
• Fix the frame system.

• Set the vertical guides indented from the plane of the interior surface by the thickness of the drywall and add 2 mm to the data (the margin is made for plaster).
• The plaster surface must be rolled out to maximum evenness.
• To create a semicircle from the profile, cuts are made on it in increments of 5-7 cm.
• When an ideal curve is formed from the profile, it is installed in the right place and fixed to the frame.
• For greater strength, the arc must be fixed with several hangers to the horizontal upper guide.
• Then install the crossbars in increments of 40-60cm.
• The result should be a structure of metal profiles in the form of an arch for further plating.

Finishing

When the arched frame is ready and sheathed, finishing work can begin. To do this, you need to glue the edges and joints of materials with specialized paper tape or fiberglass mesh. You will also need to apply putty, at least 3 layers, and sand the structure. After you are convinced of the reliability of the formed structure, you can proceed by following some of the recommendations below.

To do all the finishing work, you need to purchase acrylic putty, which is designed for interior work. But, mind you, it is better to act with a special mass for drywall. Before use, the putty mass is thoroughly stirred until smooth.

When starting work, put on gloves and other personal protective equipment! The putty is applied in linear motion with a rectangular spatula. In addition to filling all the irregularities and joints of materials with putty, it must also be applied to the caps of self-tapping screws so that their edging does not show through. Similar actions are carried out until the surface becomes perfect.

After puttying, you can start gluing the joint and edges to remove all kinds of irregularities and give the material strength. To do this, you can take a fiberglass mesh or paper tape, it all depends on your preference (both options are good). Cut off a fragment of the grid and place it on the joint (in the very center), pressing it with your fingers into the still not dried putty. Check that the tape is securely fixed and that there are no wrinkles.

After all the joints are processed with a mesh, you can cover the curved parts of the arch with it. You need to do the work in a similar way. When the mesh forms folds during the processing of arcuate sections, they can be leveled by cutting the canvas with a sharp knife.

After drying, the putty will become snow-white. This will be a signal that you need to take sandpaper and go smooth the surface. But, work carefully, do not remove too much putty so as not to expose the mesh. For this work, use a respirator, because during the grinding of the surface there will be a lot of dust, which is very harmful to human lungs.

When all 3 layers of putty are applied and the surface is cleaned, you need to wait about 12 hours for the structure to dry completely. Work again with fine grit sandpaper to achieve a perfect surface. That's all, you can decorate the surface.

Arch decoration

It doesn’t matter at all what material you used to install the arch, because even a do-it-yourself brick arch needs final decoration. To decorate the door arched vault, you can use the following techniques:

• Painting to match the walls.
• Sheathing with wood blocks (as an option, laminate, siding, etc. are often used for this).
• Wallpapering.
• Use artificial stone based on gypsum.
• Decorate the structure with mirrors or mosaics (for mosaics, you can use small pebbles, corks, glass, etc.).
• Use foam molding or surface painting.

Important! Try not to overdo it, so as not to clutter up the passage and mix incongruous. It is worth noting that sometimes ordinary painting is enough to give elegance.

As you can see, there are a lot of options for finishing decoration, for which you can use not only natural materials. It all depends on the idea of ​​the designer and the wishes of the owners, as well as the general style of the room. The classic additional interior can be supplemented with stucco molding, fabrics, so that everything harmoniously blends together. The decoration of the columns looks no less concise if clinker is glued on them.

Ready-made arched kits

If you are not confident in your own abilities, and the training video lessons from the Internet are not entirely clear to you, you can make your life much easier by buying a ready-made kit for forming an arch. Such kits can be made of different materials, have a different design, color, design and texture, which will allow each person to find the most suitable option. The most suitable option is a set of fiberboard or MDF. Such materials are very similar to wood, but are less difficult to process and install. The ready-made standard set of interior arches is included.