In the process of arranging your own home, it is often necessary to make a partition. This may be required during a large-scale redevelopment or if you want to divide the room into several parts. The easiest way to build an internal partition is from plasterboard and metal profiles. It is quite simple to work with this material, because many people want to know how to make a drywall partition. You should be aware that in the process of forming walls from drywall sheets, there are a large number of nuances that must be taken into account.
To make the partition yourself, you will need to purchase the following profiles: CD-profile, UD-profile, CW, UW.
Materials that will be needed for the construction of the partition
To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, you will first need to make a frame. It consists of metal profiles that are designed for drywall. You will also need some other fixtures.
In most cases, the following profiles are used:
- D - to form a plane on which drywall will be fixed in the future.
- W - for the construction of the partition frame.
Profiles can be supporting and guiding.
To make the partition yourself, you will need to purchase the following profiles:
- CD profile. Will be used as the main structural element.
- UD profile. Used as a guide for fixing the CD profile.
- CW. It is used as a stand to shape the wall frame.
- The UW will be used as a guide for the CW.
If you plan to build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75 or 100 mm, you will only need CW and UW profiles. For the construction of large-width walls, you should additionally purchase CD and UD profiles.
To fix the profile to the frame, you will need a hanger and a connector. All elements will be connected with self-tapping screws. You will need self-tapping screws such as "fleas" and fixtures with countersunk heads for drywall. To fix the entire frame to the main walls, you will need to purchase plastic dowels with shock screws.
Plasterboard sheets should be 12.5 mm thick, with a wide bevel on the sides. If the plasterboard partition is planned to be made in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then moisture-resistant sheets should be prepared.
As a result, for the construction of a thin wall or partition, the following elements will be needed:
- drywall sheets;
- metal profiles;
- wooden bars;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels;
- sealing tape;
- mineral wool;
- metal corner.
In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:
- roulette;
- building level;
- plumb line;
- screwdriver;
- grater;
- knife;
- scissors;
- electric drill.
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Nuances you need to know
When all the necessary tools and materials are prepared, you can start building the frame.
The floor and adjoining walls, on which the partition will be mounted, must be at the stage of finishing.
On the floor, you need to mark the location of the structure being manufactured. You will need to take into account the following nuances:
- Ideal angles between walls in rooms are quite rare, and therefore the distance between them in most cases differs by several cm. In the process of marking the drywall partitions, this must be taken into account. It is recommended to tie to two walls that run parallel. The distances will need to be averaged. Thus, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the resulting structure.
- If, in addition to the construction of the partition, it is planned to cover all the walls with plasterboard sheets, then the first thing to do is to remove the frame so that right angles can be created. After that, it will be possible to proceed with the construction of the structure.
- When marking the first line of the wall placement, one should take into account the fact that it will be necessary to align the guide profile along it. To this mark, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard sheet, a layer of putty and finishing material.
Once you have a starting line on the floor, you can drag it to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you need a plumb line or a laser level.
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How to form a drywall partition frame?
All profiles that are fixed to the floor, ceiling or walls are installed using a sealing tape. This tape must be installed between the profile and the support base. First of all, you need to fix the UW profile to the floor and ceiling. It can be fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws. The installation step of the fasteners is 0.5 m.
Along the edges of the guide elements, you need to fix the CW profile posts. These devices must be installed in places where it is planned to build a door or window opening. The profiles are first attached to the lower guide element. After that, they need to be threaded into the upper guide element and installed vertically. To determine the correct location, you need to use a building level. In the process of placing these profiles, you should take into account the margin for sheathing with drywall strips over the profile. Products are mounted with the front side inside the opening. The racks are attached to the guides with self-tapping screws.
Along the perimeter of door and window openings, the supporting profiles will need to be reinforced with wooden bars, which are installed inside the profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. The beam should be selected based on the width of the profile.
Further, along the entire length of the frame, you need to install CW support profiles. The first element from the adjacent wall is mounted at a distance of 55 cm, all subsequent ones are installed in 60 cm increments. The distance is measured from the middle of each element. In the process, you need to check the verticality of the installation of the profiles.
Use the UW profile to define the top of the door opening and the horizontal edges of the window openings. On the front side of the profile, markings should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the extreme part of the structure. The sides of the profile must be cut at an angle of 45 °. You need to start from the side of the extreme part. Further, the extreme parts of the product must be bent to obtain a U-shaped structure.
The resulting workpiece will need to be put on the racks with bent edges, and then raised to the desired height. The structure is fastened with self-tapping screws. Next, you need to screw on the oblique ears that appeared on the horizontal part of the product. In the same way, you need to form the window opening.
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How to cut drywall sheets correctly?
For this operation, you can use a regular construction knife with replaceable blades. The sheet should be placed on a flat surface. Next, with a simple pencil, you need to mark the cut line, and then cut the upper part of the cardboard with a knife. Next, the sheet must be displaced along the notch line to the extreme part of the support and slowly broken. When the sheet is returned to its original position, it will unfold on an edge and bend. On the other hand, the cardboard also needs to be cut, but not through. Then the sheet needs to be turned over and shifted to the extreme part of the support. As a result, it can be chopped off.
To provide a gap that can be easily repaired with a putty mixture in the future, a bevel-chamfer with a slope of 22.5 ° must be formed at the cut edge of the sheet. To do this, you need to use a plane. The chamfer also needs to be done on the edge of the sheet that will adjoin the GCR strip located above or below the sheet.
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How to properly fix drywall to the frame?
Next, the plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame. Sheets can be 120x120 cm, 120x250 cm and 120x300 cm.However, most often living rooms have ceilings more than 2.75 m high.Therefore, you will need to add small strips of gypsum board, since one sheet may not be enough.
The first sheet, which is installed end-to-end to the extreme part of the structure, should be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, along its entire length, on one side, you need to cut a strip 5 cm wide.
The sheet is fixed to the frame using self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm. The first step is to fix the extreme parts of the sheet, after which the product is attached in the middle. Screws must be installed every 25 cm. In some cases, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. Fasteners must be screwed in so that the caps go deep into the sheet.
Sheets are attached at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the floor. This is necessary in order to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.
After fixing the first sheet, you will need to measure the remaining distance to the ceiling structure and cut off a piece of gypsum board of the appropriate length. It also needs to be chamfered.
In the future, all the sheets will need to be installed in a checkerboard pattern, the chamfer does not need to be cut. After the first row, the whole sheet must be installed under the ceiling, the missing part is mounted from below. In this way, one side of the wall can be sheathed.
28 September, 2016Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobby: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"
To figure out how to make a drywall partition - even the simplest one - is worth any master. The thing is that structures on a metal or wooden frame, sheathed with gypsum board, have a completely acceptable bearing capacity, while they are quite easy to assemble, and if necessary, just as easily dismantled.
An additional advantage of such a solution is its economy: if we need to carry out redevelopment with minimal costs, then there is no better material to find. Finally, the manufacture of drywall partitions is one of the most effective design techniques: by erecting one or more false walls, we can radically transform a room by dividing it into functional zones.
In any case, the technique is quite relevant, so the time it takes you to learn it will definitely be well spent. Moreover, below I have collected only the most important information, verified by personal experience.
What you need to work
Materials (edit)
When planning the construction of plasterboard partitions, we first need to take care of the materials. The key role here will be played by the drywall itself, as well as the profile for its installation:
- For cladding we purchase sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm (GOST 6266-97 "Plasterboard sheets. Specifications"). As a rule, when constructing structures in residential and utility rooms, standard gypsum is used, but when dividing the bathroom into separate bathroom and toilet, it is better to take a moisture resistant one. Although this material is more expensive, it resists swelling better when moistened.
- We should also mention fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard (GKLO) and a combined version, which provides resistance to both moisture and high temperatures (GKLVO). The scope of their application is very limited, since where there is a risk of ignition, such partitions are very rarely erected - but it must be borne in mind that such sheets also exist!
- I prefer to make the frame for the partition from a galvanized steel profile. For the perimeter, we need a guide profile (PN / UW) from 50 to 100 mm, for vertical supports - rack-mount (PS / CW), the width of which will correspond to the width of the guide elements.
The guide profile is produced in panels of a standard length of 3 m. With the rack-mountable, everything is a little more complicated: there are products of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. You need to choose in accordance with the height of the ceiling in the room, since vertical extension of the rack is extremely undesirable. So be sure to take this into account when calculating!
- Sometimes, instead of a steel profile, a wooden bar impregnated with an antiseptic is used to make the frame. A partition made of bars and drywall can be cheaper, but in terms of strength it will be inferior to a structure with a metal base. In addition, wood is more prone to deformation, so I practically never use this option. .
In addition to drywall and frame elements for arranging the partition, we will need other materials:
- suspensions and other fasteners for gypsum board;
- sealing tape, which is laid between the frame and supporting structures;
- fasteners (screws, dowel-nails with plastic sleeves, etc.);
- wooden bar for decorating a doorway;
- perforated corner for design corners of the structure;
- primer for gypsum board;
- plasterboard putty;
- serpyanka tape for gluing seams.
If necessary, the partition can be insulated or filled with a sound insulator - accordingly, for this you will need to purchase suitable materials (mineral fiber-based mats and analogues). It is also allowed to lay wiring inside such partitions: we will need the wires themselves, cable channels made of non-combustible material, socket boxes and bases for switches.
Instruments
To fix the frame to the wall, you need concrete drills
On the one hand, the construction of drywall partitions does not require the use of special devices, and therefore everyone can cope with such a task. On the other hand, the set of tools for working with profile and gypsum is still extensive, and without it, work can be seriously complicated.
Be that as it may, I prefer to get down to business only with the following under the scrutiny:
- Perforator with a set of concrete drills.
- Cordless screwdriver.
Immediately we purchase a special, nozzle-bit for gypsum board, which allows you to tighten the screws exactly to the required depth. The price of this device is purely symbolic (100 - 150 rubles maximum), but how much time and nerves it saves!
- Crowns for cutting holes for the installation of sockets and switches.
- Scissors for metal (if a frame is being erected from a bar, a saw for wood).
- Roulette.
- Level.
- Plumb line.
- Hand tools - hammer, pliers, etc.
- Painting knife with replaceable blades.
- Drywall saw (you can do without it, but it is more convenient with it).
- A planer for cleaning the ends of the gypsum board and for joining seams between individual sheets.
- Surface primer brushes.
- Spatulas for finishing plasterboard.
Also, it will not be superfluous to think in advance how we will carry out the cladding. In standard houses or apartments, there are usually no difficulties, but in a room with a high (3 m or more) ceiling, you will have to use a special rack - otherwise you will not be able to fix the profile and cladding under the ceiling itself.
Information for budgeting
When designing a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to estimate the amount of financial costs in advance. If we plan to do everything with our own hands, then our budget will be limited only to the purchase and delivery of material. Of course, the cost of components for GKL partitions in different stores (and even more so in different regions) is different, but the general order of the numbers can be found from the table I have compiled:
| Material | unit of measurement | Average cost, rubles |
| Drywall, standard | sheet 2500х1200х12.5 mm | 200 — 250 |
| - moisture resistant | — | 250 — 280 |
| - fire resistant | — | 300 — 450 |
| Guide profile PN | panel 3000 mm | 75 — 300 |
| Rack profile PS | panel 3000 - 4000 mm | 150 — 350 |
| Perforated corner profile | panel 300 mm | 40 — 125 |
| Straight profile hanger | thing | 10 -30 |
| Single-layer connector | thing | 10 – 30 |
| Serpyanka ribbon | roll 20m x 50mm | 30 — 60 |
| Sealing tape | roll 20m x 50mm | 200 — 300 |
| Dowel-nail for profile fastening | 200 pieces | 320 – 450 |
| Self-tapping screw for plasterboard | 1000 pieces | 250 – 500 |
| Fugenfuller putty | Packaging 25 kg | 350 — 550 |
| Uniloft putty | Packaging 25 kg | 1100 — 1500 |
Installation technology
Markup
So, with everything we need, we are finished, now let's look at how to make the partitions strong, even and beautiful. To date, the technology for installing structures with plasterboard cladding has been worked out very well and is described in sufficient detail in regulatory documents.In my work, I focus primarily on:
- SP 55-101-2000 "Fencing structures using plasterboard sheets";
- SP 163.1325800.2014 "Structures using gypsum plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheets, design and installation rules";
- VSN 27-95 "Instructions on the technology of assembly and finishing of prefabricated gypsum plasterboard partitions on a metal frame of element-by-element assembly", etc.
In addition, the work should take into account the fire safety rules (SNiP 2.01.02-85, SNiP 21-01-97 and similar documents).
We start work with the markup:
- We release the room in which the structure will be installed - in any case, it will interfere with us. We dismantle all finishing materials: the frame must be installed exclusively on the supporting surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling.
- On one wall we set aside the distance we need twice: once - along the floor, the second time - along the ceiling. We connect the obtained points, controlling the verticality of the line using a plumb line.
- We repeat the operations on the opposite wall.
- We connect the resulting verticals along the floor and ceiling: a rectangle should come out, which will form the outline of our partition.
- In the selected place, mark the boundaries of the passage. If you plan to install a door, then we make the passage wider than required - we will need a margin of space for the door frame.
Drawing and calculations
After that, we make a drawing on a sheet of paper, transferring the actual dimensions of our partition to it.
Be sure to designate the front and back sides of the structure in the drawing. If this is not done, then there is a risk that the door or other opening will be blocked on the wrong side from which you planned. There were precedents!
- In the drawing, we mark the attachment points of the vertical rack-mount profiles. The optimal profile pitch is 60 or 40 cm (respectively, 2 or 3 racks per one standard GKL sheet 120 cm wide). It is undesirable to deviate from these figures, since this will increase the consumption of material.
- Based on the drawing data, we calculate the number of profiles required for the construction of the frame. It is quite simple to calculate the guide profile: we calculate the perimeter of the partition, divide the resulting figure by the length of one panel and round it up.
- With rack-mount profiles, everything is somewhat more complicated. We need to determine the number of racks (each requires a separate profile panel) plus add the total length of the horizontal jumpers - they will be needed if we have to sheathe a partition with a height greater than a standard GKL sheet, i.e. more than 2500 mm.
On the drawing it is also worth "sketching" the layout of the sheets. I usually do two patterns - for the front and the wrong side. So it is much more convenient to adjust the placement of the sheathing sheets, trying to ensure that the joints of the slabs on different sides fall on different racks. For example, from the front surface, the joint falls on the third and fifth supports, and from the inside - on the second fourth and sixth.
- When calculating, it is worth focusing on the configuration of your particular partition. To determine the consumption of material, you can use the above sketch, illustrating the possible options for the layout of the gypsum board and the configuration of the frame.
After completing the calculations, we purchase the material, not forgetting about the stock: even experienced craftsmen have a marriage, and it is better to have an extra GKL sheet and an extra profile panel on hand.
Installing the frame
Now I will tell you how to make a partition on a metal frame. We begin work with the installation of guide profiles:
- Using scissors, I cut the panel of the guide profile to the width of the room, after which I stick a sealing tape on its flat base.
- I lay the panel on the floor in such a way that one of its edges (usually the front one) passes exactly along the marked line of the marking.
- Using a hammer drill with a drill, I drill holes in increments of 40 to 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be equal to the length of the plastic dowel + 5-10 mm.
- I hammer a plastic dowel into each hole with a hammer so that its neck is tightly pressed against the metal.
- I fix the dowel with a locking screw with a tapered tip - first I hammer the fasteners with a hammer, and then I make two or three turns with a screwdriver or screwdriver to tighten.
In a wooden house, it is better to install the frame not on dowels, but on wood screws. For fastening, I would recommend using phosphated fasteners with a wide head and deep thread, screwing it in without preliminary drilling - this will turn out to be many times more reliable.
- Using the same algorithm, I install guides on the walls and ceiling, forming a rectangular frame.
- Next, I fix the racks. I cut each part so that its length is 8-10 mm less than the height of the room, insert it into the guide profile and align it with a plumb line. After that, I fix the rack with self-tapping screws from below and from above.
The stiffening rib should point in the direction from which the sheathing begins. I usually fasten the sheets, moving from left to right, therefore, I orient the profile with stiffeners to the left.
A little about the mount. Some craftsmen, instead of self-tapping screws, use special pliers for the profile, which work on the principle of a hole punch, punching a hole in the metal and bending the carved fragment to fix it. I tried it, but this device did not seem particularly convenient to me: perhaps you just need to get used to it.
Another nuance concerns the caps of the self-tapping screws. Sometimes (almost always) they interfere with tightly pressing the gypsum board to the profile, so I use a little trick: I attach the racks to the guide profile only on one side (from the inside out). Then, when the gypsum board is sewn on the front side, I unscrew these self-tapping screws and mount the seamy sheathing. In this case, the rigidity of the connection, if it suffers, is insignificant.
I connect the racks with crossbars, which I install at the junction of the sheets horizontally.
- A few words should be said about the doorway. The vertical posts along its edges must be reinforced. To do this, we insert into them either one more section of the profile (the configuration of Knauf parts allows this), or we lay wooden beams, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.
- I do the door partition (lintel) as follows: I cut off a fragment of the rack-mount profile by about 20 cm more than the width of the opening. I cut the side edges exactly according to the dimensions of the opening, after which I bend on each side along the obtained segment of 10 cm. I insert the part between the side pillars of the doorway and fix it with self-tapping screws.
- Be sure to put at least two vertical posts above the door lintel - on them I will join the sheathing sheets from different sides.
Now that the frame is ready, we proceed to the final operations. So, at this stage, I usually make holes in the racks and pass a cable channel through them with wires for sockets and switches.
GKL sheathing
Instructions for installing drywall sheets on a prepared frame are not difficult. If we have prepared the load-bearing elements taking into account all the requirements, then the cladding will go smoothly. If you missed something - and this happens even with experienced craftsmen - then you will have to correct the situation on the go, fortunately, there are quite enough opportunities for this.
- So, we start work from one of the corners (in our case, the left one). We cut a sheet of drywall on one side, cutting off about 5 - 6 cm - this area is usually done with a bevel and rounding to form more reliable joints.
- We cut sheets with a knife or saw. Of course, it is advisable to adapt a workbench or a durable long table for this, but if it does not work out, you can simply cut the slabs on the floor, placing a wooden plank under the cutting site. It is best to cut from two sides: cut the sheet almost through, gently break it, turn it over and cut the cardboard on the other side. This will make the ends more accurate.
- We apply a sheet of gypsum board to the frame in such a way that the distance between the lower edge and the floor is about 10 mm (protection from moisture). Using self-tapping screws for gypsum board, we fix the sheet on the frame. The optimal fastening step is 15 cm, while it is desirable to make an indent from the edge of the sheet at least 10 - 15 mm.
- For the reliability of fixing the drywall to the profile, it is very important that the screws are screwed in correctly. In this case, the cap should be recessed by 0.5 - 1 mm, but not break through the cardboard layer. It is to comply with this rule above that I recommended using a special bit with a limiter: the metal ring simply will not allow us to tighten the self-tapping screw more than necessary.
- The next important aspect is the joining of sheets. The edges can only be joined on the rack-mount profile. The significant width of such parts makes it easier to fit (1-2 cm in one direction or another do not play a special role), but still sometimes you have to trim the edges of the gypsum board. When trimming, it is advisable to clean the butt end with a special plane and immediately cut off its corners by 450 - this way we will greatly facilitate the process of puttying the joint.
- When joining any elements, remember that the attachment points and seams should not coincide. So, we twist the self-tapping screws on the adjacent sheets, and lay the drywall panels with the seam offset. For example, when installing a partition in a house with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, we first put a whole sheet below, and a narrow strip on top, and then vice versa - a narrow fragment from below, and then a whole sheet to the ceiling.
- Having sheathed one side, we go to the other. At this stage, it is convenient to lay heat and sound insulating panels into the frame, make holes for socket outlets and switches with wiring output to them, etc.
- On the other hand, we carry out the cladding according to the same algorithm. At the same time, I would like to remind you once again: if the joint was fixed “from the face” on one rack, then from the inside the joint should fall on the adjacent support.
Finishing of the sheathed structure
After the installation of drywall is completed, the interior partition must be prepared for finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying decorative plaster, etc. How to correctly do all the operations at this stage - I will tell you below.
The whole process can be roughly divided into four tasks:
- Masking of defects in flat areas of plasterboard sheathing.
- Masking of fastening points of self-tapping screws.
- Sealing of seams between sheets of gypsum board.
- Registration of the corners of the structure.
Here it is best to work according to the following scheme:
- First, we check if the caps of the self-tapping screws protrude above the plane of the drywall, and if necessary, we twist them. Do not overdo it!
- We cut off the delamination of the cardboard, after which we carefully clean such areas with sandpaper. We do the same with any defects on flat surfaces.
- If we have not done this earlier (very much in vain!) - we embroider the seams. To do this, carefully cut off the edges of the docked slabs with a knife, exposing the gypsum layer.
The joint of two whole panels with rounded or beveled ends does not need to be additionally embroidered. Anyway, I limit myself to one or two passes with coarse sandpaper for better grip.
- We process the surface for better adhesion.
- We prepare a fairly thick putty (or we get ready-made - it will be more expensive, but less fuss).
- Using a putty as a thick glue, we glue a perforated corner profile on all corners, and strips of serpyanka tape on all joints. We process these areas in such a way that the putty covers the serpentine and the perforated corner. Fully filling all holes and cavities below them.
- We align the corners first with one, then with the other side. We control the perpendicularity of the resulting planes with a square.
- We process flat areas with putty, masking all defects and fixing points of screws.
- At the final stage, we rub all surfaces with an abrasive material. For decorative plaster, a fairly large grain, but for wallpaper and even more so for painting after starting grinding, it is imperative to complete the finishing one - with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper.
When building a drywall partition with your own hands, step-by-step instructions can be invaluable. Having previously studied the intricacies of this work, you can do it no worse than hired finishers.
Tools and materials
It is impossible to make a plasterboard partition without special tools and materials.
Tool list:
- roulette;
- marking cord;
- marker and pencil;
- level and plumb line (more convenient is a laser axis builder);
- puncher;
- screwdriver;
- cutter;
- scissors for metal;
- construction knife;
- hacksaw (jigsaw);
- roughing plane;
- drill;
- cutter for holes for socket boxes;
- pliers;
- hammer.
List of materials:
- guide and rack profiles;
- dowels "quick installation" 6x40 mm or self-tapping screws for wood 35 mm press washer (when adjacent to surfaces on a wooden base);
- self-tapping screws for profiles LN 9.5 mm or press washer for metal (sharp, length - 11 mm);
- wall drywall sheets;
- self-tapping screws for metal with a countersunk head 25 mm (self-tapping screws for gypsum board);
- optional noise insulation materials (mineral wool mats, ecowool, underlay for profiles).
The thickness of the partition is set by the selected width of the profiles. Variants with a nominal size of 50, 75 or 100 mm are used. The value can be selected depending on the required stiffness of the partition and the required depth for the placement of the sound insulation.
Adjacency markup
A plasterboard partition with its ends along the entire perimeter is fixed to the adjacent walls, floor and ceiling. It is necessary to begin its construction by drawing a line along these surfaces, along the edge of which the guide profile will be attached. The required distances are measured along the floor or ceiling and transferred to the opposite surface using a plumb line.
The marks on the floor and ceiling are connected to the walls. The straightness of the markings on all surfaces is achieved with a cord. The markup is drawn with a marker with dashed lines. The location of the openings is noted.
Partition frame assembly
Plasterboard partitions are a frame made of galvanized profiles, sheathed on both sides with sheets. Guide and post elements are cut with metal scissors. It is convenient to trim the edges with pliers.
The assembly of the frame begins with fixing along the markings along the entire perimeter of the future wall of the guide profile. It is also called UW. To reduce the transmission of vibrations to the frame from the adjacent surfaces along the reference plane of the profile, you can pre-glue a sound-insulating backing tape.
The guides are fastened with dowels to concrete, brick, plaster and similar surfaces. There is no need to drill holes for dowels in galvanized steel in advance. They are easily stitched with a puncher. The dowels are driven in either with a hammer or with a hammer drill in the non-rotating impact mode. Self-tapping screws are used for fixing to panel or frame bases.
The standard width of a drywall sheet is 1200 mm. Its joints in the skin should fall on the profile shelves. To fulfill this condition, the rack elements (CW profiles) are placed vertically with a pitch of 400 or 600 mm. The first option allows you to achieve greater rigidity, but it is inconvenient for laying soundproof mats. It is possible to increase the rigidity of the structure by positioning the paired racks through 600 mm. They are simply pulled together with self-tapping screws every 0.5 m in height.
To connect the racks with the guides, it is better to do without self-tapping screws. Their caps on the front surface of the frame interfere with the tight and even fit of the sheets and create a wave on their surface. The elements are sewn together using a cutter. The connection is non-separable, but strong and without protruding elements.
Plasterboard sheets are 2.5, 3 or 4 m long. This allows you to do without building them along the height of the wall. But if such a need arises, at the place of high-rise joints, horizontal inserts must be placed along the frame. It is better to place the joints on adjacent sheets apart. One to the ceiling, the other to the floor.
The openings are framed by rack-mount profiles. The size of the opening for the installation of the door block must be taken according to the dimensions of the box with a margin of 1 cm per side.
On the finished frame, you need to lay electrical wiring or other engineering networks. Just in case, it is worth sketching the executive scheme. This will allow you to easily determine the position of the posts and wiring in the future. If you are lazy to draw, just stretch a tape measure across the racks with noticeable 10-centimeter risks and remove the frame in a photo or video. It is more convenient to fill the structure with sound insulation after one-sided sheathing.
Sheathing the frame with sheets
Drywall is easy to cut to full length or width. It is enough to attach a profile on one side and cut a layer of paper along it with a knife so as to go a little deeper into the gypsum. It remains only to turn the sheet over, break it along the notch and carefully cut the paper with a knife from the back side. Sawing along a line of arbitrary shape is easier to do with a hacksaw or jigsaw. You can cut with a knife only the second part of the corner sector.
The sheets are fixed to the galvanized posts and guides along the perimeter and along the central post with self-tapping screws for gypsum board with a pitch of 200-250 mm. Self-tapping screws are screwed in perpendicular to the surface.
The caps should enter the plane of the sheet to a depth of 1 mm.
If the self-tapping screw has gone obliquely or turned around, it is unscrewed, shifted by 5 cm and screwed in again.
For areas where there is a high probability of physical impact on the skin, it is better to perform it in 2 layers. The joints of sheets in layers are shifted. To fix the outer layer, you will need 35 mm self-tapping screws.
There are chamfers on the side faces of the gypsum board sheets. With further finishing using a putty, it fills these channels. If the joint falls on the edges of the sheet without a chamfer, you need to make it yourself with a roughing plane. The holes for the socket boxes are made with a drill bit.
Conclusion on the topic
The construction of drywall frame partitions with your own hands is done very quickly and without dirty, wet processes. Let the work with such structures be new for you, step-by-step instructions will allow you to get a wall with ideal surface geometry. It will be easy for them to perform any kind of finishing: putty, paint or wallpaper, tile, stone, fix decorative elements. Such designs provide space for creativity and an opportunity to express yourself.
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To make the room unique and original, designers use room zoning methods. One of these methods is interior partitions. There are many types of partitions ( brick, wood, glass etc.), but the most optimal choice is a plasterboard partition. It is lightweight, durable, does not take up much space, and most importantly, you can build it yourself. Let's find out how to make a drywall partition with your own hands - step-by-step instructions for this process will make your task easier.
Plasterboard partition in the interior of the house
During the construction of a house, internal partitions are most often not provided, but only load-bearing walls. This is done so that the owners themselves decide what size they want the room, where to place the partitions. For the implementation of various ideas, you can use material such as drywall. It is not heavy, bends easily and will help fulfill any designer's imagination.
With plasterboard partitions, you can zone the space, play with furniture, a television zone or an aquarium, create beautiful niches and just a beautiful decorative partition. With its help, you can create beautiful curly elements that will move from the partition to the ceiling or adjacent walls, make interesting lighting (all cables will safely hide inside the structure), or create niches for storing books, trinkets and pictures that are loved by your heart. It all depends on the flight of imagination of the owner of the premises. And such a wonderful material as drywall will help to bring this beauty to life.
Note: The main advantage of such structures is easy dismantling. For example, during a change in life, you can easily remove such a partition during repairs and make a new one in another place, or simply expand the space in the room.
How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands? Step-by-step instruction.
It is not difficult to make a plasterboard partition yourself. Let's take a look at how to do this. To carry out the work you will need:
- Screwdriver and hammer drill.
- The profile is guiding and rack-mount.
- Self-tapping screws and dowels.
- Plummet, level or laser level.
- Drywall.
- Roulette and marker.
- Construction knife.
- Scissors for metal.
- Hammer.
- Reinforcing tape.
- Primer, putty and putty knife.
- cables;
- sockets;
- switches and lamps.
To begin with, we choose a place for the future structure and, using the level, draw the exact location of the guide profiles along the perimeter of the partition.
Tip: For more accurate markings, it is better to use a laser level. But since this is an expensive thing, it can be rented from the appropriate organizations.
At the next stage, we measure the desired size of the profiles and cut it off. You can start installing. We apply the profile to the wall at the mark and drill the holes for the dowels with a puncher. The distance between the holes is 30 - 40 cm. In this way, the perimeter of the partition is mounted.
Next, rack profiles are mounted. We measure the height of the room using a tape measure or other measuring devices and cut off the profile 10 mm less. First, the profiles are installed at the location of the opening. The horizontal lintel is cut to the required size and fixed with self-tapping screws on the profiles installed in the place of the doorway.
Tip: If you plan to install the door in the opening, the profiles should be reinforced with a wooden bar inserted in the middle.
After that, the rest of the profiles are placed at a distance of 60 cm or at the rate of 3 profiles per 1 sheet of drywall.
Rack profiles are attached to the guides with self-tapping screws. Now you can mount drywall sheets. For this, the height of the sheet should be 10 mm less than the room. If the sheet is larger than the desired size, it can be cut using a construction knife.
On the cut edge, we make a chamfer at an angle of 300 for easy filling of the wall. Drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, first to the middle profile, and then to the extreme ones. The distance between the screws is 25 - 30 cm.
After sheathing one side of the partition, we lay the cables of the future wiring through the holes in the profiles. Now you can lay the soundproofing material and sew the structure on the other side. At the end of the drywall fixing, you should treat the joints and the location of the screws with a primer. Next, we apply a putty mass to the joints, glue the reinforcing tape and putty again. To install lamps or switches, we make holes using a cutter. The partition is ready. For a more aesthetic appearance of the partition, the entire surface of the drywall should be putty.
You can find out detailed information on installing a plasterboard partition from the video:
Where would a drywall partition be appropriate?
As you know, a partition is a lightweight version of a wall, the main function of which is the division of space. But there are also partitions that serve as a decorative element in the room and are decoration. For example, a plasterboard partition fits perfectly in a bedroom for highlighting the dressing area or underline sleeping area in a studio apartment. It can serve in a one-room apartment for visual zoning and dividing a room into several separate rooms. Various communications can be hidden in its cavity.(cables, pipes, installations for hanging toilet bowls).
It is also possible beat the aquarium which will be visible from two rooms or television zone... With the help of the partition, you can hide built-in furniture and give the room lightness and space. A highlight openings using arched structures now available to everyone, so these building materials are not expensive. Can make a partition with shelves for books and other little things needed in the household. And decorative lighting will add lightness and airiness to the room.
Do not stop at the proposed options, any idea you have embodied will give the house comfort and individuality.
Photos of interior partitions
As you can see in the photographs of interior partitions presented on various sites on the Internet, everything that was described earlier is a small part of what can be done with drywall partitions. Such designs can be presented in various architectural styles and design directions. Below are photos of some of the original ideas for drywall partitions.
Plasterboard partitions allow you to turn a voluminous room into several small and functional ones: zoning the nursery, separating the kitchen from the living room or dining room, isolating the hallway in the studio apartment, hiding the toilet in the combined bathroom.
The device of interior drywall partitions assumes the presence of a doorway, an arch, or the creation of a false wall that does not completely cover the room. The material allows you to create a structure of any configuration. At the same time, the construction of partitions from drywall sheets is a simple process and accessible to anyone who can hold tools in their hands. Consider how to mount a bulkhead from a gypsum board correctly and what is required for this.
If you know how to build a plasterboard partition, you can create a blind false wall, equip it with a door or arched opening, make windows or niches of an unusual shape.
Plasterboard sheets can bend, which contributes to the construction of partition elements with volumetric edges.
To carry out the installation of a drywall partition quickly and without problems with your own hands, you need to proceed in stages. When installing a drywall partition with your own hands, use a simple step-by-step instruction:
The last stage of how to make a high-quality plasterboard partition with your own hands is to remove the seams and fastening points of the screws with the help of serpyanka and putty.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard partition in places with fluctuations in humidity and temperature should be made of moisture-resistant material. The sheets are called GKLV and are painted green. To increase the resistance to moisture, you should order the surface cladding with tiles or sheathe it yourself with plastic panels.
You can read more about how to make a plasterboard partition below.
Tools and materials
To create a partition structure made of gypsum plasterboard, no expensive materials and tools are required. Everything you need is in hardware stores at an affordable price.
Materials (edit)
To create a partition of any configuration from gypsum plasterboard, a frame is required. It is assembled from metal profiles or wooden bars. The profile is preferable - it does not rot, practically does not deform, it is easier to attach, and at the same time is identical in cost.
For different rooms and functions of the partition, you need to choose different types of gypsum board. If simple sheets are suitable in an ordinary room, then moisture-resistant ones should be preferred for the bathroom, and fire-resistant options for the kitchen (with a pink coating).
What gypsum boards for partition elements are:
Pay attention to the edge - it can be straight, thin, semicircular and rounded. The latter options allow you to better hide the seams due to the convenient filling with putty. This is important, if a dense decorative finish is not supposed, for example, with tiles.
In addition to the metal profile and the drywall sheets themselves, the following fasteners and materials for the partition will be required:
- dowel-nails;
- rubberized seal;
- self-tapping screws for metal;
- joint filler;
- serpyanka for joints;
- self-tapping screws with a press washer.
You will also need an acrylic-based primer for finishing before decorating.
Required tools
Before starting work, a list of tools necessary for the construction of the structure should be drawn up. You won't need many of them, and most are in every home workshop.
Basic tools required:
- spatulas;
- normal or laser level;
- GKL planers;
- scissors for metal;
- roulette;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- hammer drill;
- metal ruler;
- marker.
You will also need a cutter to cut drywall sheets. If you don't have a special cutter, a regular utility knife will do.
Which insulation is better: foam or mineral wool
To preserve heat and protect against the penetration of extraneous sounds, the inner part of the partition is lined with special insulating materials.
Polyfoam or polystyrene allows you to quickly and efficiently insulate the false wall.
Their disadvantages are low mechanical strength and high fire hazard. And from an environmental point of view, this is not the best choice.
Mineral wool is a material with excellent insulating qualities, but its installation itself is a little more complicated and more expensive. But mineral wool is not subject to fire and is environmentally friendly.
Types of profiles for drywall: sizes, selection and scope
For plasterboard, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guides are used to fasten the frame to the ceiling or floor. They are divided into four types depending on the section: from 5x4 cm to 10x4 cm.
The length of guide profiles of any thickness is 300 cm.
The vertical parts of the partition frame are also made from the profile. Such fittings are also subdivided into four types by section: minimum 5x5 cm, maximum 10x5 cm. The length of the rack profile is 300-400 cm.
Partition markings
When erecting a plasterboard partition, first of all, you need to make a layout of the room for installation according to a previously created drawing:
- First, we outline a perfectly straight line for attaching the guide to the floor.
- Further on this line we mark the location of the door opening - here we do not install the profile.
- We transfer the line from the floor to the ceiling. For this you need a level and a plumb line.
- Using a laser level, draw a straight line at the junction of the bulkhead to the walls from floor to ceiling.
According to these marks, the frame of the false wall is mounted. It is important to clearly measure the required distances and draw lines on the floor and ceiling so that they are in strict parallel to each other. Then the zoning element will be even, without distortions.
Assembly and installation of the frame
The next stage after the marking is the erection of the partition frame, that is, the fastening of the guide profiles to the floor, ceiling and walls. A rubberized seal is placed between the wall and the profile.
It is necessary for the tight coupling of the load-bearing walls to the bulkhead.
Also, the damper tape acts as a buffer during shrinkage or expansion of the plasterboard partition element, due to changes in temperature and humidity in the room. The tape will protect against cracking and deformation.
How to assemble the frame correctly
After the manufacture of the frame for the partition is completed, an electrician is pulled inside it, if provided. This can be done after sheathing one of the sides, or even before that. Wires are packed in corrugated tubes.
Overlapping the upper part of the door or window opening can be done in this way: mark the required length on the profile, adding 150 mm on each side. These will be some kind of guides. From the sides of the profile, we measure the angles at 45 ° using the marks and cut along the cut line. Then we bend the extreme parts towards the profiles to get a U-shaped structure. We put this blank on the racks with bent "ears", then raise it to the required height and fix it with self-tapping screws.
Drywall cutting
The process is carried out with a special tool for cutting drywall. This will help the material not to crack or break.
How to cut drywall? Cutting sheets is done in the following way:
- On the frame, the area that you want to close is measured.
- Then, using a tape measure and a pencil, a sheet of drywall is marked out.
- Cutting is done with a special cutter or, in extreme cases, with a clerical knife so that the lower paper layer remains intact. The sheet is cracked along the cut and cut completely from the reverse side.
- The chamfer is done in two ways: with a plane on a gypsum board or by removing the top layer of paper by the length and width of the seam.
When installing internal sockets or switches after diluting the wires in drywall with special crowns of the required diameter, holes are drilled for the socket outlets.
Fastening drywall
Sheathing of the frame of the partition with plasterboard is made using self-tapping screws 25-30 mm long and 150-200 mm pitch and 15 mm from the edge of the sheet. The screw heads are recessed by 1 mm.
After facing with sheets of gypsum plasterboard on one side, they begin to lay thermal protection, sound insulation and install communications in the frame (if they have not been carried out earlier).
Plasterboard installation
When installing drywall sheets to the frame, it is taken into account that they should be less than the height of the walls and raised above the floor by 5-10 mm. To do this, use the same stands. The verticality of the installation is checked by level or rack profiles.
If you are planning to install shelves, hooks and other hanging accessories, you must pre-install wood mortgages in these places.
Installation of a partition
The installation of a plasterboard partition is completed by the fact that an insulating material is laid on the uncoated side of the false wall, after which it is sheathed, like the first side. The position of the installed outlet on the non-sheathed side is determined in advance, since it is necessary to drill holes before placing the sheets of gypsum board.
What else is taken into account if you want to build plasterboard partitions:
- When installing vertical struts, the stiffener is directed towards the beginning of the frame sheathing. This is due to the fact that the fastening of the first sheet of gypsum board is made from the side of the rib, and the second and further - to the rest of the rack-mount profile. If you do not make partitions using this technology, they can deform.
- If, in addition to the construction of gypsum plasterboard partitions in the room, the plasterboard of the entire perimeter is lined, then the frame is first mounted observing the angles at 90 °.
- With a high height of the element being erected, the sheathing is performed in a checkerboard pattern.
A properly constructed false wall has rigidity, stability and visual appeal.
Plasterboard partition
Plasterboard partitions are extremely popular due to their value for money. They allow you to delimit the room. In particular, the partition in the children's room will prevent territorial battles, and in the living room it will designate the study and rest areas.
Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard partitions
Drywall is a relatively cheap and easily processed material. GKL partitions have many advantages:
- environmental friendliness;
- the ability to hide any communications;
- variability of finishing;
- light weight;
- good sound insulation;
- ease of installation;
The design does not require inclusion in the technical plan and approval of the BTI.
Cons: comparative fragility, susceptibility to moisture, difficulty in installing massive shelves or wall cabinets.
Features of plasterboard partitions
The bulkhead can be straight or curved. Several false walls can be erected, connected to each other at an angle. The assembly of such a structural element is the same as for a straight bulkhead. On the ceiling and floor, the contour of the partition is indicated, along which the profiles are installed. At the junction of the elements at an angle, vertical profiles are placed on all sides of the walls.
Finishing
Making a drywall partition is not all. It is important to carry out the finishing correctly. First of all, you need to close up the joints of the gypsum board with a reinforcing tape and cover with a starting putty, leveling the seams and removing excess finishing material.
Fine finishing
If the joints of the sheets fell on those gypsum boards where the chamfer was removed independently, a primer treatment is done before gluing the reinforcing tape. All filled joints and attachment points are also primed.
Finishing the surface consists of applying a thin layer of finishing filler with a wide trowel and sanding with fine-grained sandpaper after setting.
The plastered walls are primed again. After it dries, they proceed to wallpapering or painting the surface of the walls.
Those who have already installed false gypsum walls on their own advise:
- Drill holes for wires at the same level if communications are supposed to be carried out.
- Insert a jumper from the profile into the metal frame if you are going to hang a picture or a lamp.
- If required, you can change the width of the partition - mounting profiles in two or more layers. The minimum thickness is a single framed bulkhead.
The installation of several layers improves the soundproofing and heat-insulating qualities of the partition element.
You can build your own plasterboard false wall in a few hours. You just need to adhere to all the nuances of the technology.