An extension to the house allows you to increase usable area. One option is a veranda made of foam blocks, which can be used as dining area or places to relax. As a rule, the external decoration of the extension is carried out in the same style as the main building.
Construction Features
Before you start adding a veranda to your house, you need to decide on the size of the structure and the type of foundation used. Special attention You should pay attention to checking the condition of the soil, as well as the walls of the house and the roof to which the veranda will adjoin.
Thematic material:
A project for the extension will be required. For a simple design, a drawing is sufficient, but with detailed detailing.
At the design stage, you need to take into account the size of the structure and the amount of building materials, and also answer the following questions:
- Will it be necessary to dismantle the roof elements?
- What type of connection between the veranda and the main building should I choose?
- Where will the entrance to the extension be located: separately or through the house?
Typically, the design of a veranda, especially the foam block version, does not have complex elements. Without special knowledge, the structure can be erected independently, without the help of professionals.
Foundation
After choosing a project, it's time to pour the foundation. But first you need to find out what the foundation is under the main building. This will be necessary for owners of old houses or those who bought a plot with finished building. To study, make a 1 x 1 m shufr (undermining). Depth - to the base. The main rule is to pour the same type of foundation that is under the main building. If you neglect this, you will need expansion joint. If in doubt, it is better to consult a specialist.
The purpose of the expansion joint is to reduce the load on the main foundation. It occurs due to temperature changes, soil subsidence and other natural phenomena. Used to connect the veranda to wooden house.
- tape;
- columnar.
The first is created using the continuous filling method. The second is with the help of bricks, on separate supports. It is cheaper than tape. The depth of the pit is no deeper than the foundation of the house. After pouring, the base is covered with waterproofing material.
The attached terrace is separate question. If there is a foundation underneath it of sufficient strength, you can build a veranda on the terrace. If there is no base, you will have to fill it again.
Construction of an extension
The main material for construction is foam blocks, which are advantageous to use due to their large size, low cost and low weight. Thanks to their large dimensions, construction is accelerated, and the insignificant mass of the blocks makes it possible to reduce the cost of the foundation and work with just one assistant.
Building walls
The main issue is the connection of the walls of the auxiliary and main structures. Fastening is carried out with metal brackets or fittings.
The construction of walls begins from the corners. To connect foam blocks, use a regular solution or special glue. To make the mixture adhere better to the blocks, they are moistened with water.
Masonry features:
- seam thickness – no more than 3 cm;
- leveling the level vertically by increasing/decreasing the thickness of the seam;
- Irregularities in the block are removed with a grinder.
You cannot place a block on a block. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted 15 cm to the side. This will increase the strength of the building significantly.
Roofing and lintels for windows and doors
U-shaped blocks are used for jumpers. Their advantages:
- a light weight;
- possibility of creating an opening wider than 1.75 m.
U-shaped blocks are placed together with the formwork or metal profile. You can use wooden beams. Reinforcement is installed into the groove of the block and concrete is poured.
The roof design depends on the project:
- A lean-to roof is a logical continuation of the roof of the house above the veranda.
- Gable - requires more rafters and finances. In addition, with such a roof in the veranda there will be colder in winter. Only insulation will help save the situation. The rafters are made of strong quality wood or metal profile. Tiles are placed on top.
In a properly installed roof, water should not penetrate through the cracks.
Combining foam blocks with a wooden building wall
With this option, it is important to consider the following nuances:
- correct alignment different materials walls;
- foundation wooden house always shrinks.
Wood is subject to deformation due to changes in air temperature and humidity. Therefore, between wooden structure and a veranda made of foam blocks, an expansion joint is made - a flexible layer of polyurethane foam 1-1.5 cm thick.
As soon as the construction is completed, they move on to the external decoration and internal improvement of the veranda. Bare foam blocks cannot boast of a presentable appearance, so it is better to line the walls on the outside and inside with any material you like.
The decision to build an extension can be detrimental to the foundation of the main house. Often, due to inexperience, people lay the wrong foundation and after a few months cracks appear between the house and the extension.
The article describes the process of constructing an extension to a house made of foam blocks with all possible errors and tips on how to extend its service life. How to make window and door lintels and what danger awaits when planning an opening wider than 1.75 m.
Finally, you will find some ideas for decorating and using your extension.
Why are many house extensions made from foam blocks?
Most people, when choosing a material for an extension, are increasingly inclined to use foam blocks. They have both pros and cons, but there are more pros. The main advantages of the properties of foam blocks:
- Even a non-professional builder can handle the installation. Thanks to this, you can save on hiring specialists and complete the extension yourself from start to finish;
- Quick installation - adhesive solution between foam blocks dries much faster than concrete mortar;
- The material is fireproof - does not support combustion and does not burn;
- Minimal settlement is ensured by the porous structure;
- Environmental friendliness - the composition is safe for nature;
- The porosity of the material also ensures low thermal conductivity - masonry made of foam blocks in 2 rows does not need to be insulated;
- The service life of foam block buildings reaches 50 years or more.
- The loose structure of the blocks allows you to cut them with a hacksaw, but it is better to use a circular saw;
- Strength of structures - a plastered wall made of foam blocks is difficult for intruders to break through;
- Due to its lightness, it can be used for construction on all types of soils and save on a powerful foundation;
- Low cost compared to brick.
Minor disadvantages of the material:
- The great influence of atmospheric influences on the material requires the construction of the structure in dry and warm weather and finishing or waterproofing after construction;
- An attractive appearance is only acceptable for the loft style, which is not yet very widespread in the country.
Step 1: Planning
At this stage, the conditions for construction are studied: soil, material of the house and its age. An extension project is being developed taking into account the number of storeys, the number of windows, the presence of doors and stairs.
The composition of the soil determines the type of future foundation. For example, on clay soil with a close location of groundwater, it is reasonable to make a floating foundation. Otherwise, a few months after construction, the extension will begin to move away from the house. On earthen or rocky soils, a strip foundation adjusted for shrinkage is sufficient.
You can build an extension from foam blocks next to a wooden, brick or clay house. The construction process will differ in the way the mortgages are attached at the joint. Old houses sank deeper into the ground. Therefore, the age of the house determines the size of the expansion joint - the distance by which the extension must sag in order to be equal to the main structure.
The desire to make a two-story extension from foam blocks is best realized partially - it weighs a lot and greatly affects the draft. In this case, the 2nd floor is made of particle boards (chipboards). An economical and safe option, but the final decision depends on an analysis of the construction conditions and the desires of the home owners.
Before construction starts:
- A project for a future extension is being developed;
- An expansion joint is indicated;
- The number of foam blocks, cement, consumables is calculated;
- A place for temporary storage of building materials is being prepared.
Step 2: Selecting the type of foundation
The main types of foundation that are used when constructing an extension from foam blocks:
- Tape- a strip of reinforced concrete along the perimeter of the building, used if a garage or basement is planned in the extension. For the construction of a one-story extension made of foam blocks, a shallow foundation with a depth of 50-70 cm is suitable. For a two-story building, a deep foundation laid 20-30 cm below the soil freezing depth;
- Columnar- a system of pillars in places of increased load on the ground, suitable for light panoramic extensions for the construction of immovable and non-heaving soils;
- Pile- variety columnar foundation, but using large metal poles. Withstands a weight of 2-5 tons, used in construction on soils with high buoyancy;
- Slab — monolithic slab made of concrete as the foundation of the entire house.
In private construction, when constructing additional buildings, strip or slab foundations are often used.
Step 3: Pouring the Foundation
There are 2 options for connecting the foundations of a house and an extension: rigid, when the foundation of a new structure is adjacent to the old one, and using an expansion joint. Rigid is used for the recent construction of a house that has just completed its shrinkage period. Not used if the soil composition is dominated by clay. Making an expansion joint is simple, economical and suitable for inexperienced builders.
A rigid foundation connection is formed between the following types of foundations:
- "Tape-tape"— a part of the foundation of the house 1.5-2 m long is excavated, a sand cushion is laid, reinforcement 12-14 mm is driven in at a depth of ¾ of the base, and the frame of the extension is formed;
- "Stove-stove"- used when there are protrusions from the base, which are made during the construction of a house from foam blocks. The base of the slabs under the house should protrude at least 30 cm - in this case, the reinforcement will be exposed and connected to the extension slab.
An expansion joint is more reliable and reduces the risk of destructive effects of precipitation. The extension is being built on a separate foundation next to the house. In this case, it is better to use a closed contour of the base. Sheets of roofing material are laid between the bases and along the perimeter of the new foundation. When using this option, settlement of the extension will not damage the foundation of the house.
The ideal option is if the foundation of the extension was laid when pouring the foundation of the entire house and temporarily with decking for waterproofing.
Step 4: Building the Walls
The placement of gas silicate blocks starts from the corners of the extension:
- The bottom of the foam blocks is moistened for better adhesion to the connecting solution;
- The first 2-3 rows are additionally protected with a waterproof compound to protect against capillary moisture;
- Before applying the next layer of solution, the top of the foam blocks is moistened;
- The first row is laid using a level; if there are small irregularities, the quality of the masonry will suffer;
- External masonry is usually done using an adhesive solution - the layers between the blocks are less than 2-3 mm, due to which the total area“cold bridges” and the weight of the extension is reduced. Internal partitions can be done using concrete mortar to save money;
- The preparation of the mixture is indicated on the glue packages; it is applied to the horizontal base of the block soaked in water, and then to the vertical one;
- The horizontal surface of the masonry is leveled by grinding with a float. Dust is swept away or removed with a construction vacuum cleaner.
Every 4 rows of masonry, reinforcement is laid in the corners to tie the structure together and prevent cracks. Using a circular saw, a square is made with sides 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm. The groove for laying the reinforcement is knocked out with a hammer and chisel. The space around the reinforcement is sealed with an adhesive solution.
Step 5: Lintels for Doors and Windows
The desire to make a panoramic veranda in an extension of foam blocks faces the problem of the maximum possible opening width of 1.75 m. The heavy load exceeds the tensile strength of the foam blocks. For such cases, construction uses sand-lime bricks or cinder blocks.
When calculating the height of the lintels, the thickness of the floor is taken into account - it increases due to the installation of heated floors, leveling, and creating tiers.
Jumpers are made with removable or permanent formwork.
The first option follows the instructions:
- Frames are made from reinforcement of the required length;
- Support bars are installed on both sides of the opening, and panels are attached to the horizontal formwork from the “magpie”;
- Foam blocks are sawn to length to line the inner surface of the formwork;
- A frame made of reinforcement is placed inside, with a side with a large number of rods located below. The structure is secured with spacers;
- The blocks are re-wetted for better adhesion, filled with a concrete solution with inside openings and compacted;
- The poured surface is leveled to the level of the masonry and smoothed.
When making lintels with permanent formwork, U-shaped blocks are used. This is a more expensive option, but it saves time construction work. To install U-blocks, follow these steps:
- At the top of the opening, in the corners, a block is placed with a support cut out at 25 cm;
- Using a level, unevenness on the horizontal surfaces of the supports is eliminated;
- U-blocks are installed on a regular adhesive solution with the hole facing up;
- The reinforcement frame is laid on top, large quantity the rods are concentrated at the bottom. The structure is rigidly secured with spacers;
- Each layer of foam block masonry above the lintel is compacted using a trowel.
When installing windows, contact your nearest bank in advance to receive “warm credits”. The state compensates part of the cost of energy-saving windows. Usually, the amount reaches 10% - for this money you can order a white shelter metal-plastic windows wood lamination.
Step 6: Reinforced belt to increase the load-bearing capacity of the walls
A belt of reinforcement rods provides extensions with protection from wind loads and increases the load-bearing capacity of the walls. It is made during the construction process, directly on the walls due to its heavy weight. To mount the reinforcing belt, do the following:
- In prepared wooden templates Reinforcement bars are laid at the corners of the row. The frames are welded together and leveled;
- The reinforcing belt is lined with longitudinal strips of foam blocks, cut circular saw;
- The template is well wetted and filled with concrete mortar.
The technology for forming a reinforced belt is reminiscent of installing jumpers.
Step 7: Roof
The overlap is done a few days after laying the upper reinforced belt, when the strength of the concrete increases. For a foam block extension, aerated concrete slabs or a wooden frame are used as a ceiling. In the second option, all elements are coated with compounds to protect against fire, pests, and tribes.
Metal tiles are the most popular and attractive roof type, but slate is also used. To construct a flat roof for a warm extension, follow the instructions:
- Load-bearing beams are installed along the perimeter;
- A layer of boards is laid on top, roofing material or roofing felt is laid with an overlap of 15 cm;
- The next layer is a dense layer of expanded clay (porous reddish-brown pebbles), check that there is a slight slope in the direction of precipitation flow;
- Pouring the insulating layer with cement mortar;
- Treating the screed with a bitumen primer and laying roofing material.
If the width of the roof for the extension does not exceed 6 m, timber with a cut of 15*10 cm is used.
To construct a roof made of monolithic concrete slabs, I-beams are used as supports. For a roof span of 5 m, beams of 15 cm are purchased. The recommended grade of concrete is 250.
To achieve the correct consistency of concrete, a concrete mixer is used. The composition of the solution is crushed stone with a grain size of 20 mm and cement PC-400. The solution is mixed in following proportions: 3 parts cement, 4 parts sand, 2 parts water. If necessary, water is gradually added to the concrete mixer.
The boards are attached to the bottom of the beams, and roofing felt is laid on top. The next layer is a reinforced mesh profile with a diameter of less than 1 cm and a cell size of 20*20 cm. To predict future repairs of a flat roof, the mesh rods in the places of the lining are secured with knitting wire. In some cases, glue may be used. The main thing is that the mesh does not slide off when pouring the screed.
Before the screed is formed, fine-grained crushed stone is poured under the mesh. This creates a gap of 4 cm to separate the mesh and the roofing material.
It is best to completely fill all parts of the roof in one day. It is not advisable to fill the roof in one or more stripes. This will improve the quality of work. After pouring, the concrete is compacted manually or using special equipment. During compaction, you need to carefully monitor the position of the mesh - it should not move, tear or slide off. At the final stage, the structure is covered plastic film. This will prevent moisture from evaporating from the surface at elevated temperatures and will keep the top layer from cracking.
Concrete is kept under the film for 3 days. Completely dry concrete floor covered with a layer of insulating materials. The slope towards the sliding of future precipitation is taken into account. At the end, at the final stage, the final screed is done, the installation of the rolled carpet. If desired, the monolithic roof is additionally insulated before covering it with metal tiles.
Step 8: Exterior and interior decoration
At the end of the construction of the extension, it is insulated with foam panels. Insulation is carried out with outside so that the dew point does not end up inside the structure. The foam is laid in one or two rows around the perimeter of the extension using standard technology.
The outside walls are finished with plastering and painting, siding, block-high, decorative stone.
The peculiarity of foam blocks is that during construction they produce a fairly even wall and for its interior decoration Plastering and painting is enough. Some ideas for interior decoration of the extension:
Without use exterior finishing, you need to protect the extension with a waterproofing layer. Otherwise, the foam blocks will become saturated with moisture and begin to gradually deteriorate.
Conclusion
Extension made of foam blocks - economical option rapid expansion of living space. If desired, such a structure can be erected independently in 2-3 weeks. The main thing is to analyze the conditions for construction in advance and correctly draw up a project.
It's so nice to have a home. But it’s even better when there is as much space as your heart desires. If there is a shortage of it, then you can safely build an extension. In our country, one of the best wall materials is rightfully foam concrete.
Behind Lately he not only showed himself with the best side, but also earned a solid reputation. So what is he like?
A little about foam blocks
The first thing you need to know about this material is its strength characteristics and brand classification:
- D150 – D500 – blocks for thermal insulation work. Grades below D400 are not standardized for strength. And D400 blocks can withstand up to 9 kg per cm 3. Accordingly, it can be assigned a strength class from B0.5 to B0.75. Such foam blocks are not used as the main wall material. Thanks to the low density of foam concrete, these products are an excellent heat insulator;
- D600 – D900 – blocks for structural and thermal insulation work. Foam concrete of this category, depending on the brand strength, can be assigned a class from B1 to B5. Such heat blocks are strong enough to experience serious deformation loads. Recommended grades of foam concrete for the construction of permanent walls are D800. Having such a relatively low density and sufficient strength characteristics, walls made from such products will be heat-intensive and reliable;
- D1000 – D1200 – blocks for structural work. They are a high-strength material with classes from B 5 to B 12.5. In private construction, such brands are used quite rarely due to their rather low heat capacity.
All the pros and cons of foam concrete walls
To build a reliable building from thermal blocks, you need to clearly know all their positive and negative qualities, to skillfully emphasize the former and smooth out the latter.
Advantages:
- The main advantage of this material is its increased ability to retain heat indoors. Foam concrete owes this remarkable quality to its unique structure. If you look closely at the body of the block, you will notice many hollow bubbles filled with air. And as you know air bag – the best insulation. As the density of foam concrete increases, the number of cells decreases, and accordingly its thermal conductivity becomes lower and its grade strength increases. But even high-strength blocks have a thermal conductivity index that is an order of magnitude higher than the heat capacity coefficient ceramic bricks.
- Light weight is another distinguishing feature this wall material. In comparison, its value is two and a half times lower than the weight of expanded clay blocks. This quality allows you to save on the transportation of foam concrete and the use of heavy equipment.
- The frost resistance indicator is high enough for the construction of permanent walls. The lowest grade is M15.
- The strength of foam concrete allows you to build reliable walls, however, not higher than three floors and only if the walls are reinforced.
- The degree of machinability is high. This foamed concrete can be easily cut.
- Fire resistance. Foam concrete has been assigned the first degree of fire resistance. He is able to hold open fire from spreading within four hours. In addition to the fact that it does not burn, it does not emit toxic substances and suffocating smoke when destructive impact fire.
- Environmentally friendly. Foam blocks are made only from non-toxic materials that are not subject to rotting. Also, heat blocks do not create a favorable environment for the development of mold and pathogenic organisms.
- The prices for foam blocks will pleasantly surprise you. They are half the cost of ceramic bricks. However, beware of cheap products. Perhaps they were manufactured in violation of technology, which significantly affects their quality.
Flaws:
- Shrinkage is a real problem with foam concrete. It can be from one to three millimeters for every meter of wall being built. As a rule, foam blocks shrink within 28 days, after which this indicator stabilizes. Therefore, it is recommended to condition the products before sending them to the construction site;
- Fragility of edges. Even after reaching full brand strength, heat blocks can chip at corners due to impacts and uneven loads. Therefore, you should be careful when transporting and working with them;
- Low resistance to ultraviolet radiation and weather conditions.
What kind of extensions can be built from heat blocks
With the right choice of a brand of high-quality foam concrete, you can build diverse extensions to the main building:
- Living quarters, verandas and bathrooms. nodes. Foam blocks make excellent homes. So why not increase your usable area with them?
- Boiler room. Many houses have entire rooms dedicated to heating equipment. Thanks to its good fire-resistant properties, the extension for these purposes will be safe and reliable.
- Bathhouse. Foam concrete retains heat well, which is the main criterion for wall material bath room. It will only be necessary to properly organize hydro- and thermal insulation.
- Garage attached to the house- this is the queue economical solution. Firstly, costs are reduced due to common wall, secondly, the heating system is simplified and, thirdly, convenience.
- Utility premises for keeping pets and poultry. Foam blocks for these purposes - great option. The extension will be dry, warm and comfortable. Just what you need for a home farm.
What is the cost of an extension made of foam blocks
Excellent characteristics of buildings are not yet the determining criterion for choosing a material. It is also important that it is no less economical in construction. It is also worth considering that the cost of constructing the building itself is only a third of the estimated cost of the entire project.
Electrical, roofing, foundation, plumbing and gas work require large investments. The exact cost in your specific case can be found in construction organizations. And the rest of the calculations related to the construction of walls can be done by yourself.
Example of calculating the cost of materials
Depending on the climatic region of residence and the purpose of the extension, we determine the thickness of the walls. So, for residential premises, as a rule, masonry in two blocks is used, for other extensions one will be enough:
- Step 1. Calculate the volume of the walls. To do this, you will need to multiply their total length by height and thickness. For example, the length is 20 meters, the height is 3 meters and the thickness is 0.3 meters (in one block). 20 * 3 *0.3 = 18 m3. From this value we subtract the area of windows and doors. Let's assume that we have a blind extension.
- Step 2. Multiply the resulting value by the cost. On average it is about 2500 rubles. 18 * 2500 = 45,000 rub.
- Step 3. Glue calculation. Typically, 20 kg of adhesive composition is consumed per 1 m 3 of foam concrete. The average price of a 25-kilogram bag is 300 rubles. Accordingly, 20 * 18 / 25 = 14.5 bags. Round up to 15. Total 4500 rub.
- Step 4. Cost of the solution. According to the technology, the first row is laid on a concrete composition. Let's calculate how much it will be needed for a 2 cm seam. 20 * 0.02 * 0.3 = 0.1 m3. For this volume you need 1 bag of Portland cement and 11 buckets of sand. Their cost is approximately 500 rubles.
- Step 5. We end up with 50,000 rubles. to this amount we add roofing, foundation, electrical, heating work, doors, finishing and get the final cost.
Guide to constructing a building from thermal blocks
After drawing up the drawings and calculations, you can proceed to action, namely laying the foundation and connecting the walls to the main building. If you have a house made of foam blocks, this is not difficult. It will be much more difficult for owners of stone and wooden buildings.
Features of constructing an extension to a wooden building
To properly connect the foam block extension to wooden building you need to clearly follow the basic algorithm of actions:
- Conduct a detailed analysis. First, carefully inspect the walls for rotten logs. If necessary, they are replaced and the walls are strengthened. It is also necessary to carefully inspect the foundation, find out its type and dimensions.
- Strengthen the foundation. To prevent the bases and walls from deforming during the shrinkage of the extension, they need to be connected. To do this, you need to dig a trench under the main foundation and drive reinforcing bars into it at the rate of 5 pieces per 25 cm 2. The same fittings are installed in the base of the new building.
- Rigid connection of walls is not required. It is enough to fill the space between them with insulation.
- The roof is also not connected due to shrinkage. The roof of the extension is located below the main building. Due to the overlap, moisture does not enter the room.
Features of the construction of an extension to a brick building
- If you plan to lay the same type of base for the extension at the same depth as the main one, then it is best to connect them with reinforcement in the same way as indicated above.
If the foundations are located at different depths, then cracks cannot be avoided. But they can be sealed with cement plaster. Sometimes a masonry mesh is placed underneath it. It is very important that the plaster is of high quality. It will require Portland cement M400, fine sand
- and milk of lime. The components are taken in the following proportions 1:9:2. Mix everything thoroughly. If the solution partially remains on the shovel, then you have prepared the plaster correctly. Foam concrete walls are connected to a brick masonry mesh every four brick rows.
- To do this, holes are drilled in advance and the ends of the mesh are embedded there and filled with mortar. If you are making an extension to a building at a height of more than one floor, then the connection does not need to be made.
Cracks will still appear due to increased load and deformation shrinkage.
- Pouring the foundation Step 1.
- Having figured out the connection of the building, we proceed to laying the basis of the building. We start with marking and removing soil. Remember that the distance between the bases of the building and the extension should be on average 5 cm. To maintain it, you can put a board wrapped in polyethylene between them while pouring. Step 2.
- Then we begin digging a trench around the entire perimeter. The depth should be 50 cm, and the width should be a couple of centimeters greater than the thickness of the block. Step 3.
- We place a 10-centimeter gravel cushion on the bottom and compact it well. We pour sand on it and also compact it. Step 4.
- Step 5. We lay the welded reinforcement frame in the trench.
- Step 6. We prepare a concrete solution in the proportions of cement, sand and crushed stone 1: 3.5: 5 parts. Fill it with the resulting solution, vibrate it and smooth it. Cover with film and let stand for 5-6 days. Ideally, it is better to allow the foundation to settle before building the walls. This takes about a year.
Laying walls
Before installing the blocks, you must carefully waterproof the base. To do this, they most often use ordinary roofing felt in several layers:
- On cement mortar The first row is laid. Its construction begins from the corners of the foundation. It is very important to do everything correctly, because the evenness of the entire building depends on this row. When it is completed, the remaining rows are laid on glue-cement.
- Every 3 rows the blocks are reinforced. To do this, grooves are made in them, into which the reinforcement is placed and filled with mortar. A concrete lintel is required above each opening.
- When the masonry of the walls is completed, the reinforced belt is installed and the floor slab is laid. Upon completion of this work, you should begin cladding the facade so that the blocks do not deform under the influence of precipitation.
- In conclusion, building an extension is not an easy task. Therefore, it is important to follow all the rules during work. Especially at the stage of laying the foundation.
Foam block structures can be attached to almost any structure, including for the purpose of increasing the area of a residential building, be it made of wood, brick or concrete. It is often used to expand the area of even the simplest frame buildings: garages, greenhouses, greenhouses, greenhouses and aviaries.
Professional opinion on this issue suggests that the main condition for the possibility of erecting next to the main structure additional design, is its strength and technical condition. Thus, it is not recommended to expand a building that has served for more than 15 years. However, in most cases, after inspection and calculation of the residual strength, it is given positive conclusion for carrying out work.
Preparatory stage of work
Preparation for the construction of an extension includes two main components: drawing up a project future design taking into account all safety, functionality and cost requirements, as well as the acquisition necessary materials and tools for its direct construction.
Independent design takes place in three stages:
- Forming an architectural idea of the future structure.
- Taking into account individual private nuances of implementation.
- Drawing up plans, drawings and estimates for the entire structure being built.
Foam block elements do not impose any restrictions on the configuration of the new building. Therefore, its architectural appearance, as a rule, corresponds to the style of the main building.
There are no strict restrictions on the type of finishing. In most cases, it repeats the surface of the main house.
Definition technical parameters In the case of a DIY project, you can also do it yourself. You just need to understand and follow the principles, because the hours of “brainstorming” spent on thinking through the details of the project are more than justified, since they speed up the actual construction process several times over.
For your own perception and understanding, it is advisable to write a list or table recording the main positions of the future structure:
- the widest range of functions that a given building should or can perform;
- design features necessary for the fullest implementation of this functionality;
- materials required for construction and their quantities;
- work plan, which necessarily determines its beginning, completion and total duration;
- own comments that require consultation with professionals, for example, when choosing in favor of certain features or design alternatives.
Accounting for traditional functions includes:
- Weight load, on which the type and thickness of the foundation will depend. Its correct and balanced calculation is extremely important, since overestimation will lead to additional ineffective spending, and in case of arrogance that “it will not go anywhere, it will stand”, it can lead to the collapse of not only the new building, but also the collapse of part of the adjacent the walls of the main house are towards it. Correcting a foundation that does not meet the required parameters is extremely difficult and expensive, so if mistakes are made, a decision may be made to build a new building instead of remodeling the old one.
- Lighting mode that determines the number, design and installation locations of windows. Not all rooms need sunlight; for example, a pantry or garage can easily get by with electric lamps, and the absence of additional elements will increase both the stability of the structure and its heat capacity. For specific buildings such as greenhouses, hotbeds and conservatories, a prerequisite is not only natural light, but also its penetration from above - through the roof, which is quite possible. True, the roofs of extensions are often flat, which means that in winter a thick layer of snow accumulates on them, a load that requires the installation of special reinforced openings for windows, which significantly increases the weight and cost of construction. For walls made of foam blocks, there is the possibility of both cutting through a solid wall and sealing ready-made window openings, however, both of these options are undesirable.
- The ability to access a new building from the outside determines the number and location of doors. This can be either only one doorway between the house and the extension together with their adjoining to each other, or the presence of a second external door to the street in an additional room. In the second case, when creating a second external doorway, a new calculation of heat-protective parameters will be required. In addition, a porch and changes to the house passages will be required. Block walls due to their fragility, only in the most extreme cases can they be changed after construction, for example, by cutting additional openings or laying in extra openings.
- Maintaining optimal temperature parameters may require additional thermal insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls, influence the choice of the type of glazing and auxiliary heating of the new room. Insulators are needed for most spaces, but too many of them can significantly increase costs. To provide low temperatures A room air conditioning system may be required, but it can be installed during the operation of the foam block structure.
- Sound insulation, which serves as both protection against external noise and prevents it from leaving the house itself.
- In this aspect, the functional features of the room should be taken into account, for example, if it is a home cinema, then it is not easy to insulate all surfaces from the inside and outside, but also take care of special acoustic coatings. Plumbing and require installation and installation of plumbing equipment and communications.
- Their installation again requires additional investments, so it is better to postpone its implementation until a later date. Power supply can be carried out easily and without the involvement of specialists in foam concrete walls in advance.
- Compliance with fire requirements. Concrete blocks differ good characteristics fire safety, so the premises made from them are universal and suitable even for storing fuels and lubricants, for example, in the case of a garage. When organizing a workshop to carry out work with high temperatures and open fire, you should always take care of its finishing with special heat-resistant coatings.
Thus, a detailed study of each item makes it possible to construct your own technical specifications, on the basis of which you can already develop the required sketches of the structure being built and a list of necessary materials.
Their minimum set includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, roofing felt, trowels and, of course, a sufficient number of foam blocks themselves.
Required Building tools: building level, a hacksaw, a hammer drill, a shovel and a container for mixing the solution.
The result of all the work depends to a large extent on the accuracy of the calculations and following them when assembling the structure from foam blocks; the construction procedure itself is simple and accessible to everyone.
Extension foundation
The correct technology for constructing a foundation and choosing its type for an extension structure mean much more than for an independent structure. In theory, you can choose between several types of foundation:
- tape;
- columnar;
- pile-screw.
The determining factor in this case is not the copying of the foundation of the main structure, but the mass of the specific extension and the characteristics of the soil. Thus, buildings such as a bathhouse, equipped with a heavy stove system, as a rule, require strip base for the most even load distribution.
This type of foundation requires a large amount of concrete and at least a month of time for construction and strengthening.
The pile-screw foundation design is universal, but difficult to construct, as it requires the invitation of professional workers and special equipment.
For a standard building made of foam blocks, a simple and cheap columnar foundation is sufficient, which can be erected in a few days even with only two pairs of working hands.
First, the site needs to be cleared and leveled for construction. The height of the pillars is almost not determined by the load created by the structure and is approximately 1 meter. But their number and placement depend on the weight of the structure.
- The process of installing poles is simple and is carried out in stages for all elements at once:
- A hole is dug 1 meter deep.
- A waterproofing material is laid; a sheet of roofing material is optimal in this regard.
- The fittings are being installed.
- Covered with stones.
- Filled with concrete solution.
You can adjust the height of the pillars that serve as the foundation using bricks. Logs are often used to connect pillars, but it is safer to make this structural element from the same concrete by constructing a simple formwork.
As a result, a strong encircling foundation will be built with minimal costs time, effort and money.
Regardless of the type of base, foam concrete is hygroscopic, which means it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing roofing material on top of any foundation before laying the blocks.
Walling
As is the case with other block or brick elements, the laying of foam concrete elements begins from the corner. As with most building materials, the rule of the first “ideal” row applies, since it is this that determines the correct geometry of the entire structure and is always laid especially carefully and scrupulously.
Due to the hygroscopicity of foam concrete blocks, their bottom row is covered with a waterproofing solution. The top side of each layer of blocks is soaked with water and coated with special glue. The seam between them should be no more than 1 mm thick. It is advisable to lay reinforcement in every fourth row of blocks in a pre-cut groove. This will prevent the walls from cracking.
The second crown of blocks also begins to be laid from the corner, but according to the ligation rule, that is, the joints of blocks in adjacent rows should in no case be placed on top of each other.
As you approach the wall of the main building, it becomes necessary to trim the blocks that stick out along the length, which is easily done with a regular hacksaw, because foam concrete is cut even easier than wood.
Extension windows and doors
To construct window and door openings, special steel lintels are installed that support conventional foam concrete elements reinforced with reinforcement or lighter U-shaped parts that are mounted with the hole facing up.
Installation of windows and doors with openings less than 1.7 m into walls made of foam concrete does not have any special requirements, but a large distance already requires the installation of special reinforced lintels to support the blocks.
Reinforced belts and floors of the building
In order to increase the overall strength and reliability of the load-bearing walls of the extension, interior wall The top is reinforced with a reinforced belt, which, due to its heavy weight, is assembled directly on the wall. To do this, the reinforcement, pre-cut to length, is laid along the wall on previously prepared wooden templates, after which they are welded together into steel frames.
The template is filled with narrow frame blocks and after wetting its edges with water, concrete solution is poured into them.
After the concrete has dried for 3 to 7 days, installation of the floors begins. They perform the function of holding the roof. Therefore, it is rational not to complicate their design, which will only lead to its weight. Both wood and aerated concrete or hollow slabs made of concrete.
Roof
Installation of the roof is similar to most standard buildings - beams are laid across the walls, rafter system, onto which the sheathing is attached, and the roof covering, in turn, is laid on it.
So that it does not accumulate under it a large number of Condensation should not be overdone with fillers. Due to the characteristics of the wall material, it is recommended to use soft, lightweight roofing coverings: corrugated sheets or metal tiles.
Joints
Regardless of the material of the main house - wood, stone or brick, the foam block structure is not rigidly attached to it, but is only adjacent. This is due to shrinkage of the new extension and possible subsidence of the old one due to the destruction of its foundation. Precisely so that when moving they do not harm each other between them and do not make a rigid connection.
The gaps between new construction and a house made of stone is foamed. And in the case of a log house made of wood as a house, the cracks are covered with beams, filling them onto the walls of the dwelling on both sides of the extension.
The exception is stone and brick structures with the same foundation and not very different in terms of construction.
Under such conditions, joining is possible using reinforced rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm, which are cemented into holes drilled at a level no higher than the first floor in the brick of the main building.
The joining of the walls of the extension and the house is carried out in different ways: with tires, corners or anchors. In any case, the key to a clear connection between the walls of the new and old buildings is not to attract them “tightly” to each other with anything, but to have a reliable, correctly constructed foundation of the extension, which must withstand the weight of the foam concrete structure without changing its position. High-quality joining of the roof of the main house with the covering of the extension is one of the most important and at the same time. Professionals prefer to perform this operation by partially dismantling the roof of the main building at the point where it adjoins the new structure. This is a completely justified step, which makes it difficult to join the roofs of two different designs, and make the roof of the extension building a continuation of the roof of the main building.
This greatly simplifies the entire operation and guarantees against possible leaks at the so-called joint. However, this option should be provided for in advance preparatory stage when planning in this case, the walls of the extension must be lower than the walls of the main building, otherwise nothing will work.
Features of construction using foam blocks
For the construction of walls of any building, the basic requirements for materials are always the same:
- strength;
- ease;
- resistance to natural influences;
- ease of processing and installation;
- minimal thermal conductivity;
- increased heat capacity;
- shortest shrinkage time.
Most building materials fully meet only a few requirements, completely failing others. For example, wood is both heat-intensive and lightweight, but at the same time it quickly rots in the rain, and after installation it takes a long time to shrink. Brick is durable, but its weight and the need for skilled hands to lay it also do not make it ideal.
Foam concrete is perhaps one of the few materials that has a complete list of optimal characteristics.
It fits perfectly with any other materials, which is especially important when constructing an extension to the main building. In addition, it is also cheap, unlike wood or brick.
Of course, it also has disadvantages:
- it is not beautiful, therefore, to give a building an aesthetic appearance, a finishing coating is necessary, which can reduce its environmental friendliness;
- the size of the blocks implies rather rough masonry;
- a high degree of hygroscopicity, which, if used incorrectly, can significantly reduce the thermal insulation characteristics of walls.
- Foam block is a rather specific material, so it is recommended to mount it not on a regular cement mortar, but to add special glue to it, thanks to which the elements can be installed more accurately, and the thickness of the seams between them can be reduced to 1 mm, which during operation will significantly reduce the possibility of cold penetration into the room .
- When calculating the height of the lintels, it is necessary to take into account the floor level.
- If you have a foam generator, such blocks can be made independently using flow technology and right on the construction site during construction, so that they are continuously produced and consumed. In this case, even time is saved, in contrast to the delivery of ready-made elements that need to be pre-ordered and wait until they are delivered and stored.
Even in ancient times, it became clear to humanity that air is the best heat insulator.
Layout of reinforcement for a house extension made of aerated concrete blocks.
People decided to take advantage of this property. And today, if available modern materials and the use of nanotechnology, this has not been forgotten. Except that the methods of using air insulation have changed.
Today, the most effective, from the point of view of thermal insulation, are materials that have a low density and contain many air pores inside.
These include fiberglass or basalt, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, hollow brick (the more voids there are, the more heat-saving the brick is). Foamed concrete is considered the most effective of modern materials. We will talk about one of its varieties, namely, o. It is especially indispensable when you need an extension to the house, and not an entire building.
Scheme of adding an additional room.
Aerated concrete is considered an environmentally friendly material, which, thanks to its porous structure, is durable, lightweight and has excellent thermal insulation. The combination of all this makes it more popular among all other types of building materials and allows it to be used both in the construction of entire houses and various extensions to the house. This could be a sauna, veranda, bathroom or heating unit. Easy, fast, no special extra costs. The main thing to remember is that before you start building an extension to your house, it would be a good idea to objectively assess the condition of the building itself. If it is new enough, then an extension makes sense. It may be much more profitable to demolish a very old house and build a new one than to use this inexpensive method of expanding living space.
The basis of any building
Scheme of connecting the new foundation to the old one.
Before you start making an extension to the building, you need to measure the corners of the future structure. Their diagonals should be at the same distance from the wall of the house and have the same length. Next, you need to determine the thickness of the foundation; for the middle zone, 40-50 cm will be optimal. The depth should be 40-60 cm, which is due to the freezing of the soil in winter time. A metal belt is made according to the size of the dug trench. For this purpose, fittings are used. Then holes are drilled in the old foundation and a welded metal belt is attached.
Then the foundation itself is poured, for which a sand-gravel mixture is prepared and cement and pure water. You will need a lot of water: 125 liters for 1 cubic meter of concrete. You should also know that the strength of the cement used directly depends on its shelf life: the longer it is stored, the more of its strength it loses. After pouring, the foundation is given time to settle, about 2 weeks. Next, a brick base is laid out. And only after this the extension is made directly from aerated concrete.
Concrete foamer
An attempt was made to improve the properties of concrete using a foaming agent.
Scheme of the technology for constructing a columnar foundation.
As already mentioned, in modern conditions this is the most popular building material with the greatest heat-saving ability, but there is another side to the coin: the lower the density of the material, the lower its load bearing capacity. Concrete is known to be the strongest of modern materials and its load-bearing capacity is quite high. But the walls made of it are very cold, so the extension requires mandatory insulation. It is because of this that they came up with the idea of foaming concrete. This is done using foaming agents (most often it is aluminum powder), then it is placed in molds and left to harden either naturally (foam concrete blocks) or in autoclave ovens (aerated concrete blocks). Thus, aerated concrete blocks are produced only industrially, while foam concrete can actually be produced directly on construction sites.
Naturally, this factor cannot but affect the quality and price. Modern manufacturers they claim that a thickness of 30-40 cm replaces brick wall 1 m thick; it is also said that high vapor permeability of this material does not require the construction of ventilation in the room. Only to attach the blocks you need special fasteners, and in order to screw a self-tapping screw into the wall, you need anchor-type fasteners, otherwise nothing will work. Nails in such walls simply do not hold and fall out. Aerated concrete has one more remarkable quality: blocks can be sawed with a hacksaw for metal and planed with a plane, like wood. To install the blocks from which the extension is made, it is better to use special glue.
Deformation of building materials
It must be said that deformation of any building materials is inevitable.
In fairness, it should be noted that no masonry, even 2.5 bricks, is completely airtight. Therefore, it is advisable to seal and coat absolutely all cracks, seams and joints on both one and the other side of the wall. For ventilation gaps between blocks and facing brickwork 20 mm will be enough. Bandaging blocks and facing masonry done using nylon fittings. It is indispensable when working with tension. In addition to brick, you can use other facade materials. Walls made of aerated concrete must be closed from the outside, since, having high absorbency, they will be extremely fragile. And heat loss in the cold season will be much lower, this is especially true for the middle zone. As practice shows, it is best to plaster a wall on both sides. Then the built extension will be warmer.