Internal partitions are walls that do not perform a load-bearing function and serve only to separate rooms. Partitions in a wooden house are usually built of wood so as not to violate the overall style of the building. But this is not important, if the interior design solution allows, you can build them from any materials, such as, for example, drywall or aerated concrete.
Requirements for partitions in a private house
All walls in the house are divided into load-bearing, self-supporting, enclosing and partitions. Bearing walls must be strong and reliable, as other architectural elements rely on them. Self-supporting lean on the foundation and withstand their own weight. The enclosing wall can be load-bearing or self-supporting. It should be not only durable, but also insulated.
Partitions, unlike the above types of walls, are based on ceilings and do not carry any load. Less stringent requirements are imposed on their indicators of strength and reliability. However, these designs must have certain characteristics.
Partitions must be sufficient light. The less their weight, the less pressure on the foundation and floors, and this is reflected in the efficiency of the entire building.
Partitions should be thin. The thinner the dividing internal walls, the more the living space of the house is saved.
When calculating partitions, it must be taken into account that furniture and household appliances will be hung on them. Therefore they must be strong.
Partitions act as separating structures, which should provide the premises with a sufficient level soundproofing.
Partitions in rooms with high humidity and sudden changes in temperature should be constructed from materials that are not adversely affected by these factors. If they are built from wood, then it is imperative to use effective protective impregnations.
Partitions in the house should have a high fire resistance.
It is very important to take into account the need for laying electrical wires in the body of the septum or along it.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer interior redevelopment services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
What materials are
For the construction of internal partitions, various building materials are used. The most commonly used brick, porous concrete or drywall.
Brick
Brick partitions are characterized by high strength. You can mount any shelves and brackets on them without fear that they will not stay on the wall. In addition, brick walls are a good sound insulator. So that they do not weigh the building so much, not an ordinary solid brick is used, but its porous counterpart. But partitions in a house made of timber are rarely made of ceramics. The fact is that even porous brick is too heavy for a wooden building. In addition, a brick wall requires painstaking leveling of the surface for a fine finish.
Aerated concrete and foam concrete
Blocks from cellular concrete are issued in various standard sizes. There are also special products for laying partitions. They have a small thickness and minimal weight. But there are also disadvantages here - when hanging heavy interior elements, you need to use special dowels. Another important nuance is that cellular concrete is hygroscopic, and without additional protection it cannot be used to separate rooms with high humidity.
Drywall
This is the cheapest and most convenient material to use. For the construction of partitions, a metal frame is installed, which is then sheathed on both sides with thick sheets of drywall. The difficulty of operating such structures is their low resistance to mechanical stress. It is impossible to mount shelves and equipment on the drywall itself. True, you can fix heavy elements directly on the metal frame.
With a sufficiently strong blow, the plasterboard wall cracks, as a result of which the replacement of damaged sheets is required.
Gypsum boards
Gypsum and silicone material with tongue-and-groove connection system. Practical partitions with a smooth surface are very quickly erected from gypsum boards. It is also impossible to hang heavy objects on them just like that, but in terms of resistance to mechanical stress, this material is more attractive than ordinary drywall.
Partitions in a house made of timber
The density of partitions should not exceed the density of load-bearing walls, otherwise they will be too heavy relative to the total mass of the building. At the same time, the beam from which the walls of the log cabins are built belongs to light building materials. It is not recommended to build traditional brick and even not very heavy aerated concrete partitions in wooden houses. You can build them from drywall or tongue-and-groove plates. But the best option is timber or frame partitions. In technical rooms, it is possible to install board (panel) partitions.
Bar partitions
Bar partitions allow you to maintain the harmony of the interior of the log house. They are built from a material with a small thickness. But the height of the timber for partitions should be the same as the material for the outer walls. This is necessary in order to facilitate the process of building partitions and increase the aesthetics of the interior of the premises.
The main advantages of timber structures:
rigidity;
strength;
good soundproofing.
However, it should be noted that all the advantageous characteristics of timber walls are reduced due to the presence of openings in them. An important advantage of partitions made of timber is their appearance, in which there is no need for additional decoration with finishing materials.
Such partitions are erected in the same way as the outer walls of the log house. Floor beams serve as the basis for internal dividing walls. During the construction process, it must be remembered that the beam in the finished log house shrinks. This also applies to the material for the frame of the building, and wood for the interior walls. It is more convenient to erect partitions simultaneously with load-bearing walls. But if there is no certainty that the timber for walls and for partitions has the same shrinkage coefficient, it is better to mount the partitions after the house has completely shrunk.
The number of beams and the type of connection between the partition and the wall is determined by the designer or builders. To protect the wood from moisture as much as possible, the bottom row of the partition is laid from moisture-resistant aspen or larch. In addition, insulation of the lower row is created from a vapor-permeable film.
Finished timber partitions are ground and coated with protective compounds along with the main walls. On partitions made of timber, you can safely mount heavy shelves and fastening systems for household appliances.
Frame partitions
This is a more economical and quick-build option. Such partitions consist of a framework and a covering. The frame is constructed from vertical racks and horizontal ligaments from a bar or unplaned board. You can use a metal frame as for drywall. The frame is fixed with hardware to the surface of the floor, load-bearing walls and ceiling. The finished frame is filled from the inside with any heat-insulating sheet material that will provide the wall with sufficient sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. The structure is sewn up with a board, timber or other material suitable for the interior design of a house under construction. The rigidity and strength of the frame partition remains unchanged regardless of the number of technical and door openings.
Despite the fact that partitions made of timber or frame technology are erected quickly and with the help of a simple tool, only qualified specialists should be trusted in this matter. When working with wood-based materials, shrinkage processes must be taken into account, which depend on many factors. In addition, only a professional can securely fix all the elements of a wooden structure without damaging them.
Video description
Arrangement of a frame partition in a log house made of timber or logs
Plank partitions
A kind of wooden non-bearing interior wall. A plank partition differs from a timber partition in thickness, sound insulation and strength indicators, as well as in price. Usually, wooden partitions are installed in utility and technical rooms, in which it is not necessary to maintain an ideal design.
This option has the principle of a frame partition. As a frame, boards installed vertically or horizontally, depending on the characteristics of the room, are used. Frame boards are sewn up with a planed board.
On our website you can see the most popular projects log houses from construction companies represented at the exhibition of houses Low-Rise Country.
Conclusion
A cottage made of timber is an environmentally friendly and comfortable housing in all respects. Interior walls in a wooden house should not disturb the harmony of the log house. However, they should not be too expensive. In houses designed as a classic log house, it is better to install timber partitions. If the cottage is conceived in a modern style, dividing walls can be made in it with a smooth surface to provide designers with the opportunity to create an original stylish interior.
A wooden frame is a complex of load-bearing walls made of logs that form external and sometimes 1-2 internal enclosing structures. If the purpose of the building is a residential building, inside you will need a device for interior fences that will divide the space into residential areas.
Features of fences
A partition in a wooden frame can only be installed after the house has completely shrunk, when the risk of its deformation and destruction as a result of this process is reduced. Usually, the building is allowed to rest after assembly for 1-2 years, after which you can proceed with the installation of the internal parts of the layout. The design is not load-bearing, it takes only its own weight, therefore it does not require a reinforced frame and a separate foundation.
The main difference between a partition and a wall is that the former can be easily dismantled without damaging the floor and ceiling, if the owners decide to change the layout and put the fence in another place.
Qualities that an interior fence should have:
- Lightness of material and design;
- Environmental safety, which is very important when choosing a material for fencing residential areas in a wooden house;
- Thermal insulation;
- Noise protection from adjacent rooms;
- The partition must cope with the suspension of some household appliances and furniture on it. This should be taken into account in advance when choosing the design and material of the skin.
In most cases, interior fencing can be installed independently without the involvement of specialists.
Varieties
What type of interior fence to choose:
Frame partitions in a log house are the most common and most affordable type of interior fences that you can install yourself. They consist of a wooden frame, insulation and cladding. Their main feature is the variety of possible configurations during installation. The frame fence can divide the space into zones of different shapes. When redevelopment, the structure is easily disassembled and transferred to another place for further service.
Joiner's (panel) wooden partitions for a log house fit just as well as frame ones. They are prefabricated panels that need to be installed on frame rails. Partitions often do not require additional finishing, they can be varnished, colored composite materials with a pattern. Their disadvantage is low sound insulation, although this parameter can be adjusted when ordering, buying or manufacturing, choosing the option that suits you according to the characteristics.
The cost of a carpentry partition depends on the type of construction and the materials used and starts from 250 rubles/m2 to 1500 rubles/m2 or more.
Solid partitions without a frame are attached to the ceiling and floor guides with a nail method or screwed onto screws. To disassemble such a structure, you will have to remove all the fasteners of individual boards or panels.
Partition in a log house with your own hands
With independent construction, there is no desire to resort to the services of specialists in such a matter as installing partitions in a log house of a wooden house. We will analyze the method of construction of each type of enclosing structure.
frame structure
For assembly, you will need the following materials and tools:
- Beam for the frame. Its width can be 60-100 mm, depending on the desired size of sound insulation and the type of insulation chosen. The height of the bar is within 40-50 mm.
- Reiki - spacers can be smaller in size than the bars for the frame. Their purpose is to maintain the rigidity of the structure and fix the insulation.
- Vapor barrier material, if such a layer is not provided in the insulation.
- Thermal insulation. For residential premises, it is optimal to use plate materials: mineral wool, foam plastic, basalt.
- For fastening - self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, you can use nails and a hammer, if the material being fixed allows their use.
Stages of work:
- The location of the partition is marked and the lower harness is mounted. To do this, the bar is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws or screws. It is immediately necessary to provide for the location of doorways.
- Strictly above the lower trim, the upper belt is attached in the same way, only it is not necessary to leave a gap under the opening.
- Installation of vertical racks. It is convenient to start from the opening and mount the timber with a step not exceeding the width of the insulation plate. Fastening with self-tapping screws or on the corners to the upper and lower trim. Side racks are attached directly to the wall.
- Now you need to make a doorway. The side racks are already installed, you need to attach the top jumper.
- Spacers are inserted just above the middle of the height and fastened with self-tapping screws. You can do otherwise: measure the room and assemble the frame on the floor, then lift it up and attach it to the ceiling and wall.
- Now you can sheathe one side of the wall so that the installed insulation takes its place during installation. It is desirable to stretch a membrane or film on the frame, which will protect the heat insulator from moisture. This issue is considered especially relevant when fencing the kitchen and bathrooms. The film can be attached with a stapler to the racks of the frame. On top of the vapor barrier, the partition is sheathed with sheet materials (MDF, GKL) or a board, clapboard. The joints of the elements should fall in the middle of the vertical rack. When one side is ready, we put the insulation plate inside the frame. It is necessary to place them in such a way that there are no gaps in the insulation to improve the effect of sound absorption.
- Sheathing the second side according to the same principle: vapor barrier, cladding.
This type of barriers can be installed in any houses: brick, concrete, stone, frame.
Joinery partitions
Shield screens can be bought ready-made or you can make them yourself. In the first case, you can significantly save time on the assembly of the product and its subsequent finishing, but you will not be able to save money. Self-manufacturing and installation of shields is best done before laying the finishing floor, so that the structure can be fixed on the logs. How to make a partition in a log house yourself:
- The dimensions of the future structure are being taken. The length is divided into several parts that need to be made. The easiest way is to make a shield out of boards. It can be double or triple (according to the number of plank rows). To do this, according to the principle of a frame partition, a jumper is made from a bar, on which even boards are stuffed on both sides, between which insulation with foil can be laid: it is able to slightly dampen noise and retain heat inside the room. Instead of foil, you can take the usual insulation material (mineral wool, foam). The shield can be single, then the boards are butted to each other and guide rails are nailed along the lower and upper edges.
- On the ceiling and on the logs (along the floor) you need to make grooves to hold the shields. To do this, the bars are nailed or screwed in 2 rows, the distance between which is equal to the thickness of the partition or the width of the shield, together with the retaining edge rails.
- Shields are inserted into the grooves.
Joinery structures can reach the ceiling or be 50-60 cm below its level. Such structures could be found in houses built in the 20th century in rooms with high ceilings such as hostels and administrative offices of ordinary employees.
Panel joinery and frame partitions are similar in design if the former are made of 2 or 3 rows of boards.
Frameless design
At its core, a frameless fence is similar to a shield one:
- 1) Guide bars are nailed to the ceiling and floor;
- 2) Boards are attached to the ceiling and floor beams, which are sheathed with plasterboard or other panel or finishing material.
Such a partition cannot have a heater. Instead of boards, plastic or composite panels can be chosen.
Other options
Partitions can be not only static, but also mobile. Their independent production can be troublesome and costly, but with an understanding of the technology of their work, an experienced craftsman will be able to cope with this task.
Movable screens are sold complete with guides and all fasteners, so it is advisable to purchase a ready-made system. What types of structures are there?
- In non-threshold systems, the canvases move parallel along the ceiling profile;
- In rail webs, partitions move along two rails on the floor and ceiling;
- Folding canvases are folded like an accordion, moving along the ceiling and floor profiles.
Each system has an instruction according to which the installation of a movable fence is carried out. This is convenient to install in several cases:
- For zoning large rooms;
- To distinguish between a kitchen and a room in a studio apartment;
- To delimit space in one-room apartments.
Sliding canvas partitions will be useful in cases where it is necessary to visually delimit the space. There is no talk of any sound insulation and heat preservation.
If you want to independently make a sliding partition in a wooden house from a log house, you should repeat the principle of operation of ready-made systems and make the appropriate floor and ceiling profiles, make canvases. Fasteners and roller mechanisms still have to be purchased.
The main thing to consider
Static and sliding partitions for a log house can be made and installed independently, lightweight structures will optimally fit into rooms with wooden walls and floors. In addition, the structures are easily attached to wood and hold well on it.
The main thing to remember: maintaining verticality and dimensional accuracy is the key to successful work. If the ceiling and floor rails are not attached parallel to each other, there will be a slight skew in the railing. Mobile systems are especially sensitive to accuracy. If the profiles are not attached parallel, the blades will simply not move or the process will be difficult.
08.01.2016 1 CommentAny house throughout the entire period of operation can be subject to changes, restructuring, redevelopment. This may be due to a change of owners or a change in family composition. The problem can concern houses of any design, including wooden buildings. The article will tell you how to make partitions in a wooden house.
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general information
The partition should be made after shrinkage of the house. It is considered a self-supporting structure and its main purpose is the formation of an interior or rooms. It should be characterized by good sound insulation and thermal conductivity. Internal partitions do not fulfill global design goals, they are not assigned a special load. They are not even always included in the design of the house.
Building codes prohibit the use of internal partitions as a support for ceilings. A partition built outside the plan should be able to be easily disassembled and dismantled. The developer, the owner of the house, will be interested in the problem - what to make partitions in a wooden house from.
Partition wall material
There are many options for the material, but it is immediately necessary to exclude the use of bricks, cinder blocks and other building stone. First, it's pointless. Secondly, for the construction of such a powerful partition, a foundation will be needed. In our case, it is unlikely to exist. Materials for partitions in a wooden house are varied. There are a number of typical options:
- Wooden, standard partitions. This type is the most convenient, reliable and functional. These partitions will perfectly ennoble the house and give it comfort. Wooden partitions are durable, with their participation you can mount wall ceilings, hang shelves and cabinets, racks. This design can be plastered or subjected to decorative processing. Such a wall is easily subjected to fire treatment and anti-rotting agents, which is very desirable.
- Plasterboard partitions. They are economical, lightweight and not expensive. These partitions are quickly erected and form seamless surfaces. Drywall has good soundproofing properties and fire resistance. Free space inside the wall can be used for electrical wiring and other utilities. The material is environmentally friendly.
- Frame-panel partitions. This is the most popular and practical type of construction. For manufacturing, a beam of 50 × 50 mm is required. For increased sound insulation, a beam of 50 × 100 mm is used. You can apply a profile. Sheathe such a design can be drywall, plywood. Not the best option - fiberboard.
- Solid partitions. They have a very heavy construction, made of boards. If the boards are more than 50 mm thick, additional support in the form of a log will be needed. It will compensate for the weight of the partition. Boards are mounted vertically, in prepared grooves - from above and below. The design in the section has the letter "P". At the top, leave a gap of no more than 2 centimeters in case of subsidence. Boards can be sheathed, or you can decorate with stain and varnish.
- Glass partitions. There are many available options for glass partitions and sliding doors. They can also be used on the veranda or terrace. With their help, you can easily and quickly modify the parameters of the room.
- Designer partitions. During their construction, the principle of the space of options works, this is an opportunity for a creative person to show their design abilities. Wood, plastic, metal profile, chipboard, paper can be used as a material. This is a great opportunity to separate part of the room and use partitions. Forged and fabric partitions can be attributed to designer partitions.
What are the partitions in a wooden house if it has more than one floor? In this case, it is necessary to proceed from the bearing capacity of the floor on which the partition will rest. In this situation, the principle works - the easier, the better. A strength calculation is required. Even if the floors withstand the partition, they can bend and change the geometry of the structure. An additional support or reinforcing structure will be required.
Basic requirements and wishes for the device
The main requirement for any building structure is safety. It must be securely fastened, to exclude the possibility of falling, destruction. All fasteners, if possible, should be able to be disassembled. This will make your work easier if you decide to rearrange or redevelop. It is desirable to use as little combustible materials as possible, pay much attention to fire safety. Material for partitions should be environmentally friendly, moisture resistant, aesthetic.
How to make partitions in a wooden house
Installation of frame partitions
Their installation begins with laying a horizontal bar on the floor. The dimensions of the beam must correspond to the dimensions of the future partition. Then the vertical rack is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws to the wall. The lower end rest against the edge of the horizontal bar. The next step is to determine the point on the ceiling where the edge of the plumb line will be. For this task you will need a plumb line.
After mounting the horizontal elements, install the vertical ones. The standard distance between them is 55 centimeters. But this is not a dogma, it is necessary to take into account the design features of the material and the overall size of the wall, its height. Nowadays, an aluminum building profile is actively used as a frame. The docking itself is carried out in the middle of the racks. Plasterboard sheets, plywood, fiberboard are used as sheathing. Here, the hygroscopicity of the material is taken into account. The space between the lining inside the frame is filled with a soundproofing substance - polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
The first stage is the marking of the lines of our partition. A plumb line is perfect for this. Then prepare the design of the guides. Two bars are attached to the board, located in parallel. Nails or screws (self-tapping screws) are used as fasteners. The distance between the guides should be equal to the thickness of the future wall. If the boards are sawn correctly and inserted into the guides, only the most extreme can be fixed.
The rest will be deprived of the opportunity to move freely. When constructing interior partitions in a wooden house, the future wall can be sheathed with plywood, fiberboard or chipboard sheets. You can perform a capital option by upholstering them with shingles and plastering. Then an additional lag must be present in the structure, which will hold a heavier structure.
Installation of plasterboard walls
How to make interior partitions in a wooden house from drywall? The main advantage of drywall in this task is the ability to level the walls. The work can be done very quickly. It is important to consider that a wooden house almost always shrinks. This should not affect the drywall and destroy it. Work begins with markings, drawing a line of the future wall on the ceiling. Then they project it onto the floor using a plumb line.
The frame is made using an aluminum profile. Wooden bars are less commonly used, although the design is cheaper and more environmentally friendly. With direct installation of drywall sheets, it must be taken into account that the structure will move slightly. If the sheets are mounted tightly end-to-end, they will collapse. Small gaps must be left to compensate for expansion due to temperature and humidity. As a base for installation can be used:
- wooden walls,
- wooden slats,
- wooden beams,
- wood trim,
- wood frame,
- the wooden wall itself or the floors.
There are several methods for attaching the drywall itself to the rail. This will require dowels, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, a file, an electric or mechanical drill. A beam with a section of 50 × 100 mm or 50 × 74 mm will go to the role of rails. The optimal place for fastening is the middle of the rail or bar. The best gap between the screws is 15 cm. The fasteners should be slightly buried in the drywall. Joints should ideally be sealed with adhesive reinforcing film. If the dimensions of the joints turned out to be more than 3 mm, then they should be puttied, and then sealed with reinforcing tape.
When installing wall partitions made of glass and other materials, all of the above principles are used. And the installation of designer partitions depends only on the structure itself and is developed directly by the designer or architect.
By making partitions in a wooden house with your own hands, you can perfectly show your abilities and building talents. These works are easy to perform with little installation skills and abilities. The main thing is ingenuity, logical thinking, compliance with the simplest building rules. If you make mistakes, it will not be difficult to redo and correct them. Well, there should be no consequences, except for waste on spoiled material.
Construction of a partition in a wooden house: video instruction
The video shows what nuances should be taken into account when building partitions in a wooden house.
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We buy a house, and we see rooms in it that are not planned the way we need. The area of the combined rooms is not the same, the partition is not located there. Uncomfortable...
That we should demolish the existing internal brick wall and build another one?
We are hindered by local conditions. It is impossible to build masonry in a new place, on a wooden floor, for this you need to remove the floor and lay out supports - concrete or brick pedestals that will bear a serious load from a brick wall.
The way out is the construction of a less massive, but no less functional wooden partition. Under it, additional supports are not needed.
Initial data
We broke the existing partition into one brick
and got such a huge space that we will have to divide in our own way: 
view from here 
View from there
The technology of self-construction of a wooden partition
Nothing complicated, this is the simplest constructor that adults love to play with. The most important thing is to determine the vertical of the wall, and the second most important thing is to set the lower and upper guides.
Guides
We fix the central bar vertically on the wall, which we control frenziedly with the level several times:
In order not to immediately “mow down”, you need to hammer (not completely) into the wall only one nail or wrap one long screw - approximately in the middle of the bar. On it you will rotate and correct the bar in level. After each hammered nail, apply a level, checking if the vertical has shifted:
As a result, the bar is fastened tightly to the wall, the distance between the fasteners should be no more than 600 mm. From each edge of the bar, respectively - no more than 300 mm.
Further, strictly observing the vertical, the lower and upper guides from a bar of the same section are installed in the same way. It will not be difficult to nail a bar to a wooden floor and a wooden ceiling in a private house, so there is no need to paint events.
If you have such an opportunity that the floor is with a screed (which is unlikely in the living room) and the ceiling is made of concrete floors - well, well, use a puncher and dowel-nails.
And then the choice of material depends on the desired thickness of the wall. I decided that 100 mm would be very enough for me, so I stuffed another small bar of 25 mm on each side onto a 50 mm beam, and I already installed the plates on them.
Plates used chipboard polished. At your choice, you can take unpolished chipboard, plywood, OSB and any other materials. Just think - is it worth paying so much for a similar quality?
Do not be afraid of wood in terms of huge sound transmission. We chose this technology in order to deprive the wooden structure of this great negative quality. Further it will be clear.
Further actions
As you wish!
He'll be inside anyway, you can't see him. Whatever they write and say about typical frame forms, this is your hut. For example, I was reluctant to maintain strict squares and spend extra energy on washing down bars and extra bars, in fact. You need to save money, even though there are a lot of them.
There is no need to achieve supermonoliness and incredible strength of the frame itself from the bars. A wooden plate screwed to it will significantly strengthen the ties, serving as an additional plane and a very strong stiffening rib. And the second plate, on the other hand, will firmly fix the future partition.
Having assembled a timber frame of an arbitrary non-square shape, we attach one bottom plate to it:
This is a view from inside the wall. Pay attention to the location of the guides: inside the wall near the frame, the vertical is not only not respected, but even maliciously violated. Which does not prevent the wall itself from remaining even and vertical, but allows you to seriously save on expensive bars.
And here is the view from the other side:
There are horizontal main guides in the frame, they are located in the middle - to give stability and the ability to “attach” to them by mounting auxiliary ones.
This is a whole slab, I did not even cut or cut around the edges. Fortunately, I have the strength to carry it myself, without assistants. If you are working alone, being a construction hermit, it is recommended to either calculate the forces or saw the slabs to make it easier and more comfortable to carry. But in this case, it is also necessary to prepare the frame accordingly - so that each plate is sufficiently fixed at the ends. And for this you need to take into account the dimensions of the blanks.
Don't forget to check the vertical!
After that, we fix the second whole plate:
Inside view"
View "outside"
There is very little left on top - here you can’t do without measurements and trimmings. As well as at the end of the wall, where you will need to cut out additional elements.
In total, 2 whole slabs on each side, 2 “halves” on each side (sawed strictly in half), plus one for all additional ones, will go to the wall.
A total of seven per wall 4 meters long with a ceiling height of 2.75 m, plan when calculating the cost of materials.
Soundproofing
There is nothing better than having someone take care of you. For example, manufacturers of high-quality mineral wool insulation, which in combination are also soundproofing material.
Such insulation-sound insulators are produced taking into account the performance of several functions, so you do not need to look for sound insulation separately. The question is additional convenience - materials sold in rolls are not as convenient to mount as tiled forms. They need to be unwound, cut, and it will not always be possible to observe the thickness of the mineral wool - it delaminates.
Plates of a specific size are more convenient to cut, and the whole assembly is simple.
Inside the finished frame, trying to tightly press the material to the already mounted plates, we lay the heat and sound insulation:
Then we repeat operations with chipboard on the other side of the wall, and we get an almost completed structure:
To the question about the method of fastening and the number of hardware on a chipboard sheet, I answer:
1. Fasten with wood screws at least 35 mm long.
2. Be sure to fasten the plate around the edges.
3. The step along the edges must be at least 600 mm.
4. In the center, fix the plates so that it is “strong”. There is no need to look for non-existent technologies, especially since we have already violated them when we mounted a non-standard frame.
Joints and interfaces
All on it?
With a wooden structure - yes. Everything is clear there, but I won’t even talk about how to measure and cut. Measure with a tape measure, cut with a saw. Or an electric saw.
But there is one caveat: it is better to process the joints of particle boards immediately, or rather, putty. So that the moisture that does exist in the air does not penetrate into the cuts and does not make them soak and swell. When you will finally finish the partition is still unknown, and you don’t need “swollen” joints at all.
In order to qualitatively and evenly putty the joints and interfaces of plates with walls, you need to use such simple materials as self-adhesive mesh and corners, plastic or aluminum.
Putty mesh
At the end of the work, when the mesh dried up and fixed, I preferred the entire wall, which I highly recommend to you:
As you can see, the joints are almost imperceptible - this is one continuous surface.
You can make the internal layout of a house or apartment using partitions that divide the space into functional zones. Timber walls are ideal for wooden buildings. They are durable and dense, perfectly protect heat and protect from extraneous sounds. We will learn how to properly make a partition from a bar, how to mount a similar structure so that it serves for a long time and reliably.
The construction of a partition element from a bar is greatly facilitated by the fact that this does not require either the work of designers or an additional foundation tape. The beam belongs to lightweight materials that do not create a special load on the support.
The functionality of the timber wall in the apartment is based on its strength. As a rule, at the bottom, the partition has a reliable support (floorboards, logs). When installing a solid bulkhead, it is possible to do without additional fastening to the floor.
The advantages of a partition in a house made of timber can also include:
It is also important to note that profiled timber has a natural beauty that allows you to save on decorative finishes.
Assembling the timber partition
The bar is made mainly from solid wood. In cross section, it looks like a square or a rectangle.
For the construction of partitions, a profile with a section from 30x30 mm to 100x150 mm is more often used.
To build a really reliable bulkhead from a bar with your own hands, if necessary, acting as a support for various decorative elements, you need to know some nuances.
Features of laying timber
Before starting the installation of partitions from a bar, it is necessary to choose the right material for them.
The tree must be dried to a certain moisture index (no more than 15%), otherwise the partition may deform during shrinkage.
In addition, mandatory impregnation with special means is required to prevent the appearance of rotting and cracks on the material.
There are several subtleties that suggest how to make partitions from a bar:
| Important point | How to implement? |
| Installation of waterproofing. | The construction starts from the bottom bar, on top of which it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing material. This helps to prevent the damaging effects of moisture constantly accumulating at the bottom of the bulkhead, for example, when washing floors or due to a break in drainage pipes. It is recommended to use aspen or larch timber for laying the starting row, since these species have the greatest resistance to moisture. |
| Increased thermal and sound insulation. | Before laying the next row, tow or jute fiber is laid on top of the previous one. The connection of the main wall with the bulkhead is insulated with the same material. |
| Structural rigidity. | Each row is attached to the previous one. Fixing the bars is carried out using wooden or iron dowels. Nagel is installed in increments of 1.5 m, and a distance of 15 cm from the corners. Dowels are staggered. |
After installation, the bulkhead is sanded together with the main walls and an antiseptic primer is applied. The inner wall can be erected during the main construction of the house or after.
Connecting the beam to the main wall
The features and solution of fixing the partition element in a wooden house with your own hands depend on carpentry skills. The first method: cut grooves in the frame.
Using a pencil and a level, two vertical lines are drawn on the wall at a distance equal to the width of the beam.
Then a neat cut is made along each line with a depth of 50 mm, and the middle is removed with an ax or chisel. A bar is inserted into the resulting groove.
If there is not enough experience to produce an even cut in a log house, you can resort to a simpler method: the partition is attached to the load-bearing wall using nails driven in at an angle.
The main stages of installation
To build a partition from bars with your own hands, you need to prepare tools.
The minimum set includes:
- axe;
- electric drill with a drill for wood;
- circular saw;
- roulette;
- level;
- wood saw;
- hammer;
- wide chisel.
It is also important to choose the right lumber, and for sheathing the frame, it is also facing.
Frame timber partition
Interroom frame partitions can be mounted on a timber base. The frame is constructed from bars with a section of 5x5 cm.
It can be lined with plasterboard or gypsum-fiber sheets, chipboard and fiberboard, plywood. After that, such an internal bulkhead is decorated with any materials.
The construction of such internal partition elements is possible anywhere in the house, regardless of the location of the foundation.
The construction of frame partitions in the house can be done in two ways:
| Building type | Installation method |
| Any (walls are not necessarily wooden). | It is possible to use a pre-assembled frame made of timber. It will only need to be fixed on the floor, walls and ceiling, for example, using dowel-nails. |
| log cabin | The partition can be erected on site. To do this, first mark the walls, ceiling and floor at the place where the structural element will be installed. Further along the marking lines, long screws fix the bars that serve as the main frame of the frame. After installing them, it remains to assemble the rest. For fastening vertical and horizontal bars to the frame, it is recommended to use metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws. |
For better preservation of heat in the room, the voids in the frame must be lined with foam, mineral wool, or other insulating material. In the bath, it is also possible to install a frame bulkhead. But do not forget that there is a high temperature - there should not be metal parts located on the surface.
The wooden frame base is attractive due to the availability of the material and the ease of erecting the wall.
The beam lends itself well to processing, which allows you to assemble the frame of a partition element of any configuration.
If it is planned to build a bulk bulkhead, then it will be necessary to build a wall of two planes.
Installation of a solid partition using a bar frame
Let's figure out how to properly install frame partitions in a house from a bar:
When erecting a double frame under a beam of 100x100 mm, the marking is carried out in this way. On the wall adjacent to the bulkhead, a straight vertical line is drawn in level. 50 mm are indented from it on each side and two more parallel lines are marked. Further, the ceiling, floor and opposite wall are marked in the same way. Along these lines, bars of the frame base with a section of 50x50 mm are exposed and fastened with long self-tapping screws in increments of 400-500 mm. The result is a frame made of a double beam with a gap of 100 mm.
In this gap, the ends of the beam of the future bulkhead are installed. But first, a jute tape is laid on the floor under the frame. The starting beam is fixed with dowels 200–300 mm long. Holes for dowels are drilled in the floor and the lower part of the beam with a distance of 150 mm from the main wall on each side and a step of one and a half meters.
When laying the second row, holes are also drilled into which dowels are inserted, driven into the first beam. Jute insulation is laid between the bars. In this way, the entire partition is laid from floor to ceiling.
Tongue and groove mounting
The connection of the bars according to the "thorn-groove" method is permissible in a house made of profiled elements.
How to make a partition from a bar in this case:
If an opening is supposed to be in the partition element, then it is required to install additional stiffeners, which are mounted on the upper bars with the help of metal corners.
Groove mounting without studs
This is another way to connect the beam.
Connections of profiled timber in the "groove-comb" With this method, the construction of the wall is carried out according to the following technology:
- A vertical line is drawn on the wall to which the bulkhead will be attached. It is indented from it by half the width of the profile on each side of the line. For example, the width of the bar is 100 mm, then they retreat 50 mm and draw two more parallel straight lines.
- A groove 30-50 mm deep is cut along the extreme lines.
- A jute tape is placed in this groove and the ends of the timber are inserted.
- The timber is laid in the same way as when mounting with spikes, using dowels and a jute sealant.
After the assembly is completed, the wall is caulked with jute. When insulating during installation with high-quality flax fiber tape, this is not required.
When designing a house from a bar, the partition elements are arranged in such a way as to obtain a minimum number of walk-through rooms.
Modern programs can create a three-dimensional model, which helps to assess how convenient the placement of rooms will be, and where it is better to install doorways.
