In order to protect from rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.
A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay a heater.
I give a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the skin and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. It is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.
From above, we cover it with a fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it with plastic washers (we cut it from 4 × 4 cm flasks). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.
We nail the plaster shingles in the center. Caring for the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and close it for the winter.
Attention!
Styrofoam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil cannot be used for insulation - these are airtight coatings.
Wall decoration of an adobe house and ventilation device: drawings
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What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? This question worries all owners. The cool temperature in the living room during the cold season creates discomfort, in addition, finances are spent on additional heating, and this is not advisable.
The range of modern heaters is great. To choose the right thermal insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of each.
External insulation: choice of material
The market for modern thermal insulation materials is large. These are both synthetic heaters and natural ones. All of them differ from each other in technical characteristics - thermal conductivity, water absorption, specific gravity, installation methods, strength and others.
Among the natural materials for warming the house outside, the following can be distinguished:
- adobe (clay + straw + additives);
- expanded clay (relevant if the owner decides to build an additional outer wall in half a brick);
- warm plaster.
The range of synthetic insulation that can sheathe the walls of the house from the outside is wider:
- expanded polystyrenes (regular and extruded);
- polyurethane foam;
- penoizol;
- mineral wool (basalt is preferable).
All heaters can be divided into two groups:
- for self-assembly;
- for professional installation.
The former include any types of plasters (adobe and warm), expanded polystyrenes (polystyrene and foam), mineral wool, expanded clay.
Polyurethane foam can be attributed to the ideal thermal insulation of the house from the outside, but only specialists can sheathe (insulate) it, since the material is sprayed.
The situation is similar with penoizol (carbamide foam). This is a liquid thermal insulation, the installation of which requires a special installation and high-quality protection of the insulation from moisture.
In order to choose the right material, you need to decide on some conditions:
- financial component;
- quality of insulation;
- complexity / ease of installation.
The most expensive insulation can be called the thermal insulation of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam. The cheapest option is foam. In addition, it is light, so self-assembly is available (you can sheathe the house from the outside in a day). This insulation does not need a crate, it is glued with special glue directly to the wall.
Advice. Expanded polystyrenes (polystyrene / foam) are demanding on the quality of the walls. Therefore, before warming, they must be put in order - cleaned of the peeling old coating, checked with a level for deviation from the horizontal and leveled, if necessary.
The next option for the price is mineral wool. It is not demanding on the evenness of the walls, but it requires double-sided waterproofing and the installation of a ventilated facade, which entails additional labor costs.
What insulation do you prefer? To answer this question, you need to consider some of the technical characteristics of each of them, as well as decide how difficult it is to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside with one or another material.
Expanded polystyrenes
Polyfoam and penoplex are representatives of polystyrene foam. The differences between these heaters in price are significant. The same can be said about their technical characteristics:
- Thermal conductivity. For foam plastic and foam plastic, it is approximately the same, but the water absorption of the first is 4 times higher (4% per day) than that of the second. Penoplex almost does not absorb moisture, therefore it is recommended for wall insulation from the outside.
- Strength/brittleness. Styrofoam is difficult to work with, as it is fragile and crumbles on the cut. Penoplex has a fine-mesh structure, besides, all cells are very firmly interconnected, so the material is much stronger than polystyrene in bending and compression. It can be cut with a regular or clerical knife, the cut will not crumble.
- Flammability. Expanded polystyrenes are combustible heaters. However, modern versions of them are produced using flame retardants, which significantly reduces the risk of accidental ignition. When choosing a material, pay attention to the marking "G". G1 - flame-retardant, self-extinguishing insulation. There is also foam specifically for facade insulation - PSB-S-25F. The proportion of fire retardants in this composition is significant, therefore it is prohibited to use it for insulation inside residential premises.
- Sensitivity to solvents. Styrofoam and foam plastic are sensitive to organic solvents, therefore, to sheathe a house with them, use polyurethane foam glue or dry compounds, which are closed with water according to the instructions immediately before use.
- The need for finishing. Both types of polyurethane foams must be protected from the effects of atmospheric phenomena. For these purposes, plastering on a fiberglass mesh is used and further painting or applying bark beetle plaster. It is permissible to use warm plaster as additional insulation from the outside.
Important
. Styrofoam and foam plastic are rather fragile heaters. Therefore, the layer of plaster mortar should be small.
The disadvantage of such thermal insulation of the walls is the love of rodents to arrange nests in polystyrene foam. So that they cannot reach the insulation, it is necessary to install a zero level from a metal profile. It is impossible to protect yourself from the penetration of mice into the insulation in other ways.
Mineral wool
This heater is chosen by many and it is quite reasonable. Its technical characteristics are more than attractive:
- The material is produced in various densities, which allows it to be sheathed not only for the walls of the house from the outside and from the inside, but also to be used for thermal insulation of the floor or roof.
- Form of production of mineral wool - mats, rolls, plates, as well as foil insulation.
- Basalt thermal insulation does not burn, withstanding heating up to 1000°C. This allows you to use it not only for wall insulation, but also for chimneys.
- The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is low.
- Water absorption is artificially reduced due to impregnation with water repellents, however, during installation, it is still necessary to lay waterproofing on both sides of the insulation.
- Rodents are indifferent to cotton wool.
- The material is inert to most chemical and organic solvents.
- It is easy to work with cotton wool, so do-it-yourself installation is available.
The technology for installing mineral wool on walls from the outside and from the inside - on glue and frame. In the first case, finishing is done with plaster (wet facade system), in the second - with siding, block-house, porcelain stoneware (hinged and ventilated facade systems).
Frame technology installation of mineral wool includes the following steps:
- The wall of the house is treated with an antiseptic and dried.
- Then the waterproofing is installed and the bars of the vertical crate are stuffed.
- The insulation is cut to size and installed in the niches of the crate by surprise (both “hanging” it and “protrusion” is unacceptable).
- After that, mineral wool is tightened with a vapor barrier membrane.
- You can additionally install horizontal guides that will fix the wool in the niches.
Additional actions are not required to properly sheathe the outside of the house with mineral wool. The finishing of such insulation - siding, block house, porcelain stoneware - any options installed on the frame or crate.
Expanded clay and adobe
Natural heaters are cheap, acquiring them is not a problem. Therefore, quite often the owners of private houses choose them. In addition, they are environmentally friendly, breathe, which is attractive to many.
The walls of the house are insulated with expanded clay at the construction stage. You can do this after it is over, but for such insulation you need to lay out additional walls at a distance of about 20 cm from the main ones. Get a well masonry. The space between the walls must be isolated from moisture and covered with expanded clay (mix the insulation of various fractions), then shed with cement milk to reduce its settling and increase strength.
Important . As additional thermal insulation, walls already insulated with expanded clay can be finished outside with warm plaster.
Saman has been used to insulate the walls of houses for a long time. But the technology behind it is complex. Nobody knows the exact recipe for the plaster composition, since a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Therefore, this method of wall insulation from the outside is considered complex and time-consuming (every time the master experiments). Insulated walls must be protected from moisture, so they are whitewashed with lime. The result of such thermal insulation is an environmentally friendly house, in which it is pleasant to be at any time of the year.
What material to focus on
After analyzing the installation technology and some qualities of heaters, it is easy to decide which one to choose. The easiest and cheapest way is to sheathe the outside of the house with foam. More expensive and better - penoplex. Mineral wool refers to breathable materials, but for it it is necessary to equip a ventilated facade. Polyurethane foam is not picky about the quality of the walls, it sticks to them perfectly, completely insulates the house from the penetration of cold air and moisture, but the price of such insulation is high. Thermal insulation with natural materials - for an amateur. They are cheap, but require significant labor costs.
Good day! I am asking for help in repairing and insulating an old adobe house. House built in 37 years. Saman size 20x20x40. Over the past years, it has condensed so much that it has become like a stone. There was a need to dismantle part of the corner - they could hardly do it, the blocks of adobe were so firmly entangled with each other. But the house is cold. The windows were replaced with modern ones, the slopes and window sills were sealed up "to the good" - nowhere does it blow from them. The house is lined with brick "on ruba". The foundation is also adobe. The floor is cold. Heating from the boiler - there are radiators and PVC pipes in the rooms. But even with a frost of 10 degrees - the walls are getting colder. How to insulate a house?
Olga, Salsk, Rostov region.
Hello, Olga from Salsk, Rostov region!
Unfortunately, I can't be of any real use except for advice. You live too far from me to come to you with workers and try to rectify the situation.
From the available practice I can say the following. There are buildings that, no matter how much they insulate, they still remain cold.
And in order to create a comfortable temperature in the room, it is necessary to have a constantly working powerful heating system. Which is associated with high costs for fuel or other energy resources.
Let's first digress and reason purely theoretically.
You have a fairly solid adobe house lined on the outside with bricks installed on the edge, which was done to make it more beautiful outside. Most likely there is no insulation between adobe and brickwork. As a result, the walls form an array that accumulates the temperature regime that is dictated mainly by the external temperature background.
It is clear that the heating of the internal space somewhat increases the temperature of the walls, but not sufficiently. In addition, the temperature inside the room is largely affected by the surfaces of the ceiling (indirectly, both the attic and the roof) and the floor.
Based on these tedious theoretical conclusions, it follows that in order for the temperature inside the house to be tolerable for living in a very cold season, it is necessary to insulate, or rather, isolate the flow of cold on all these surfaces. Including both windows and doors, which are conductors of cold.
You write that the windows are made to last and the cold does not pass through them. On the doors facing the street, there should also be thermal curtains, and in short, transition tambours or similar curtains should be built.
Therefore, it remains to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling.
Most often, when lining adobe walls with bricks in problematic houses, insulation is placed between adobe and brick. Since you have not done this, then you should insulate according to one of two options. Or outside the house. Or inside the house. For your case, the second option is most likely suitable. Because if you make insulation from the outside, then you are tormented by heating the heating system.
Ideally, insulation in such cases is done as follows. The walls are sheathed with clapboard, which is mounted on lighthouses (a cranial bar with a section of 75/50 millimeters). A 50 mm thick insulation is laid between the beacons. Then an air gap of 25 millimeters is left between the insulation and the lining. The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor barrier film. The distance between the beacons is usually made 600 millimeters, a multiple of the size of most heaters.
That is, once again and in order, the whole technology of wall insulation.
A vapor barrier film is attached to the adobe walls. Beacons 75/50 are attached to the walls with self-tapping anchors with their installation on the edge. Insulation is fixed between the beacons with "fungi" (self-tapping screws with plates or special purchased ones). A second layer of film is mounted on the beacons. Get an air gap of 25 millimeters between it and the insulation. The lining is nailed (instead of it, other materials such as plywood, various panels, plates, etc. can be installed)
The insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is carried out in a similar way as the insulation of the walls. In addition, in the attic space, the floor can also be insulated by laying insulation (starting from expanded clay and ending with mineral slabs or rolls).
Floor insulation is a special conversation. This insulation is sometimes more important than wall insulation, since there is not always a warm basement or underground under the house. If possible, both the basement and the ceiling above the basement are insulated in approximately the same way as described above. If there is no basement, underground floor at all, then a radical alteration is not ruled out. When the entire old floor is opened to a decent depth.
That is, the floor boards, logs are dismantled, the soil is removed to a certain depth. After that, a new floor is mounted in the form of a puff cake. The soil is leveled, waterproofing from roofing material or its analogues is laid. Approximately 15 cm layer of expanded clay is poured. Then a reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 and above centimeters is made. Lay the sex logs, antiseptic. Lay the floor.
It is clear that all this is quite lengthy in terms of time and material costs. It is associated with many inconveniences in removing furniture or dragging it from place to place so as not to interfere with work. Possible dismantling of the pipes of the heating system and its batteries, since it is necessary to move them from the old walls by 75 millimeters plus the thickness of the wall material. The internal usable volume of the room will also decrease by twice that size. It is also possible to reduce the height of the room by lowering the ceiling surface and raising the floor.
But in the end, the thermal regime inside the room rises and you will feel much better than before.
There are, of course, many other options for insulation. But the above is the most commonly used.
Other questions on the topic of adobe houses.
Those living in adobe buildings note that due to the high massiveness and thermal inertia of the walls made of heavy adobe, they are cool in summer, and in winter fluctuations in outside temperature have little effect on the temperature in the house. However, walls made of heavy material are not always energy efficient enough, and they have to be insulated.
Heavy monolithic walls or made of blocks in strength may not be inferior to brick
A wall made of heavy adobe, dense and without voids (density 1200-1600 kg / m³), is close in terms of thermal conductivity to effective (hollow) brick or foam concrete (depending on the ratio of clay and straw in the material) and has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.3- 0.6 W/(m × °C).
It will be warmer the more straw it contains.
In the conditions of Ukraine, the wall thickness with such thermal conductivity of the material should be about a meter, which is difficult to implement and unprofitable in terms of labor costs.
Therefore, a wall of heavy adobe is usually made 40-50 cm thick, and then insulated and plastered.
Adobe requires the use of a vapor-permeable insulation. Expanded polystyrene is excluded, adobe construction enthusiasts consider mineral wool to be non-environmentally friendly.
Connoisseurs recommend using reeds (reeds), which do not absorb moisture, do not rot and have a tubular structure with air inside the stems. It is used in the form of mats, laid with a layer of at least 10 cm and firmly fixed to the wall with dowels.
There is a lot of straw in light adobe, so it cannot be used for the construction of load-bearing structures and requires a frame.
2-3 cm of clay or lime plaster are applied over the insulation (the latter is more durable).
The coldest places in any home are the corners.
The advantage of adobe technology is the ability to avoid problem areas by making rounded corners of the outer walls, slightly increasing their thickness.
Light adobe
Walls made of light material do not have high inertia, but have a high energy-saving ability (at a density of 500 kg/m³ and below, the material can be used as a heat insulator).
Their thickness can be 25 cm, but blowing through is possible (like a shell rock) and, as a rule, the walls are made 30-40 cm thick. The denser the adobe is rammed, the warmer the structure.
Due to the fact that there is a frame in the wall structure, the density of light adobe can be significantly reduced, achieving a high level of thermal insulation with a thin wall. Even with a wall thickness of 25 cm, the house does not require insulation.
However, in this case, it is important to use a strong plaster and to exclude the formation of cracks in order to avoid through blowing.
Cracks can occur when the material is loose and shrinks around the window frames, at the points of contact between the adobe and the frame, and when the plaster cracks. However, it is easy to cover them up, to renew the plaster (it is easy to repair an adobe house).
Expanded clay or light adobe is usually used to insulate the floor in the house.