Small waste resulting from the processing of various types of wood is often used as fuel. For this, sawdust is pressed different ways, obtaining such types solid fuel like briquettes or small granules (pellets). And only then they are loaded into a heating boiler. However, it is much easier and cheaper to burn sawdust without any processing, the main thing is to do it correctly. A homemade sawdust boiler can be very useful here, and will be discussed in this material.
Types of homemade sawdust boilers
Everyone knows that dry wood waste quickly burns out, releasing all thermal energy in a short period of time. If the sawdust is damp, then on the contrary, they smolder and smoke for a long time, not wanting to flare up normally. In this case, only their joint use with firewood saves. To do this with high efficiency, home craftsmen - craftsmen have long invented and implemented 2 types of heat generators:- units where fuel burns from top to bottom;
- mine-type boiler plants.
- Use waste efficiently, getting maximum heat from them;
- Ensure complete combustion of sawdust, no residue;
- Extend the interval between furnace loads by making it as large as possible.
Wood waste burns in the firebox of a home-made boiler for a long time - from 8 to 12 hours. This criterion depends on design features this or that unit, which will be discussed below. The main advantage of self-made sawdust heat sources is considered affordable price... Even if you entrust all the work to the masters, paying for it at a decent level, then the whole project will cost at least half the cost of purchasing branded heating equipment.
Top burning sawdust boiler
The prototype of this type of heat generators is the well-known steel stove "bubafonya", and the factory counterpart is the products of the well-proven Lithuanian brand STROPUVA. Structurally, the boiler is made in such a way that the fuel cannot "hang" in the furnace during operation, for which the combustion chamber of the unit is made round shape. Outer cladding can repeat the outline of the firebox, but it can also be rectangular, in which case the volume of the water jacket increases.But the whole trick is that the cauldron long burning does not burn them on sawdust the traditional way, on the contrary, from top to bottom. In this case, the remnants of fuel in the chamber are constantly pressed down by a massive load, repeating the internal configuration of the chamber and freely moving up and down along it. The load has a hole in the middle, to which a long pipe is welded, coming out through upper part unit. Thus, air, passing through the pipe from top to bottom, enters the firebox through the hole and is distributed to the sides thanks to diffusers welded from the bottom of the load.
The key to efficient and complete combustion of wood in the boiler is the presence of good natural draft in the chimney. If this is not possible, then you will need to install a fan, as is done on some models of Lithuanian factory counterparts. When the chamber is fully loaded, the fuel gradually burns out, while the load drops lower and lower, delivering air directly to the combustion zone.
The duration of work from one tab is up to 12 hours, the ash residue is very small. The problem of raw sawdust is solved simply: they should be filled up with firewood or laid in lower layers, with dry fuel on top. True, the damp sawdust will still take away part of the released heat for evaporation of moisture and during this time the boiler efficiency will be reduced. This law can only be circumvented in one way - to dry the tree in advance.
Mine boiler for sawdust
Mine home-made boilers operating on sawdust are more difficult to manufacture and more cumbersome, but they have one advantage over upper combustion units. They are less demanding on the quality of the fuel, or rather, on its moisture content. On the other hand, very damp sawdust cannot be burned, since they cannot enter the chamber through the grate. The unit itself consists of two sections - a fuel bunker and a firebox with a fire-tube heat exchanger. The structure in contact with flame and flue gases is welded from steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm, the rest of the metal - 2 mm. The unit diagram is shown in the figure:The principle of operation of the heat generator is simple: sawdust is gradually poured down into the firebox, where it burns when air is supplied by a fan or due to the natural draft of the chimney. It turns out that the duration of combustion is limited only by the volume of the bunker, and each homeowner can make it taking into account the availability of space for installing the boiler. Completeness of combustion is also ensured stable feed air, and to control the operation of the unit, it is recommended to equip it with an automation kit, as shown in the video:
A do-it-yourself sawdust heating boiler can compete on an equal footing with factory products in terms of work efficiency. In terms of cost and reliability, it will even benefit, since good master, worried about his reputation, will make a decent reserve in everything so that his brainchild will function for a long time and safely.
Sawdust - lovely stuff for heating houses and greenhouses.
They consist of wood, which means that when correct use they are only slightly inferior in heat capacity to wood.
You can get them cheap, and in some cases even is free.
- houses;
- makeshift;
- greenhouses.
We will also consider in detail all types of heating stoves and long-burning boilers that can use sawdust as fuel.
Before talking about the features of sawdust boiler rooms, you need to figure it out yourself combustion mechanism this fuel, because it is very different from the mechanism of burning wood.
No matter how tightly the firewood is stacked, there is always air passes, and in sufficient quantity to support combustion.
Even loosely laid sawdust allows much less air, therefore, smoldering quickly extinguishes without supplying additional air to the combustion zone.
Sawdust burners only work efficiently when fire moves from top to bottom... Therefore, only a layer of sawdust with a thickness of 2–5 cm is constantly burning.
Due to the fact that only a small amount of fuel is involved in combustion, power sawdust boilers and furnaces operating on them, with the same with wood and coal heating devices 2-3 times less.
Another factor that reduces the power of the boiler or furnace is low temperature burning sawdust.
If the wood burns with the correct air supply, then the flame temperature exceeds 1000 degrees, often reaching 2000 degrees in tongues of fire. And this powerful fire, because the entire mass of firewood emits pyrolysis gases.
The fire temperature of burning sawdust, even with the correct air supply, does not always reach and 1000 degrees due to low flow of pyrolysis gases.
Pyrolysis gases effectively escape only from the upper layer with a thickness 5-15 mm.
From burning or heated, but located below the sawdust, gas comes out with difficulty, because it is interfered with by the sawdust located above.
Despite such disadvantages, sawdust perfect fit for boilers and long burning furnaces.
After all, well-compacted sawdust burns a very long time.
Often, a self-made iron stove burns for 5–8 days from one laying of sawdust, providing heating for the whole house.
Suitable heating systems
For heating with sawdust of private houses and any buildings, they use such systems:
- heating stoves;
- heating stoves with hot water heating register or air heater;
- water heating with radiators;
- water heat-insulated floor;
- air heating;
- air heat-insulated floor.
Heating stoves heat space around you, therefore, they are only suitable for not big houses ... At a distance of 10 meters from the oven, the temperature drops by 10-15 degrees, so in big houses the oven can only act as an additional heater.
Heating stoves with hot water register or air heater combine the advantages of furnaces and boilers. They provide the same heat as a conventional heating stove and heat the coolant, which flows through pipes or air ducts to remote rooms.
The large mass of the furnace turns it into heat accumulator, thanks to which you do not have to re-heat the boiler every 2 hours or throw firewood into it every hour. The oven will keep the temperature coolant up to 6-10 hours, so you can heat 2-3 times a day.
Water heating with radiators in each room can be used both with a water boiler and with a sawdust oven if it is embedded in it water register... Like any other water heating, it can work on natural or forced circulation of the heat carrier.
On systems with natural circulation hot water first rises to the ceiling, then descends into each room and enters either the radiators or warm floor... On systems with forced circulation the water is driven by a pump, so all pipes can be laid under the floor.
Water and air underfloor heating not only heats the room, but also improves its microclimate. In winter, it is very pleasant to walk barefoot on the floor, feeling its warmth with your feet. Main lack of underfloor heating- the high cost of materials and work, because it is necessary not only to lay air ducts or water pipe, but also qualitatively insulate the space between the floor and the ground or foundation.
Air heating costs also expensive, like a warm floor, because it is necessary to lay air ducts throughout the house, and also to put automatic humidifiers due to severe drying out of the air. A heater with a heater can be used as a heat source.
The difference between stoves and boilers lies only in the presence of the boiler water jacket, that is, the space between the hot body and the outer casing is filled with water.
Here distinctive features each heater:
- bake- direct heating of air and surrounding space;
- heater- heating air for delivery to other rooms without heating the surrounding space;
- heater-heater- heating the surrounding space and heating the air for delivery to other rooms;
- register oven- heating the surrounding space and water for delivery to other rooms;
- boiler- heating water for delivery to other rooms.
Therefore, heaters and boilers are installed in utility rooms and are often insulated outside. After all, it makes no sense to waste heat energy for strong heating. utility room, and the less heat is spent on this, the more it will get to other rooms.
Requirements for heating devices
For heating with sawdust, it is necessary to use boilers and long-burning furnaces corresponding to the following conditions:
- fuel combustion top down;
- big outer surface area(important for ovens);
- big heat exchanger area or a water jacket;
- big firebox volume;
- possibility air supply into the combustion zone.
Due to the small size of the sawdust, they can be fed into the furnace or boiler automatically, which is even more increases time autonomous work heater. Most often, a screw feed is used for this - a rotating auger raises or lowers sawdust from the hopper and scatters them in the combustion zone.
When there is too much ash, the heater is stopped and cooled down so that clear ash and reload with fuel.
For heating with sawdust, boilers and long-burning stoves of the Stropuva type (the Russian analogue of Bubafonya) are well suited. These devices implement the principle of top burning wood, and air enters directly into the combustion zone.
Furnaces and boilers for long burning, operating on sawdust, can not only be bought, but also made by hand. V homemade devices the requirements for heating devices described above are also implemented.
Sawdust furnaces and boilers
There are 2 types of fireboxes, which differ in air supply method:
- above, through the descending air duct;
- from below through a pre-made channel in sawdust.
The most famous furnaces and boilers of the first type are devices under the Stropuva brand. They are produced both in the form of furnaces and boilers.
As we said in the article (Fuel from sawdust), the difference between stoves and boilers is that the first heat the air directly and the second heat the coolant... Then the coolant, which can be both water and air, enters the rooms through pipes and heats them.
With drop-down duct
Stoves and boilers for long burning Stropuva arranged like this:
- the body is made of pipes with a diameter of 50-70 cm;
- in this case are cut two doors- loading from above and cleaning from below;
- passes through the lid telescopic tube(in home-made devices, it is replaced by an ordinary pipe of great length) - air duct;
- welded to the bottom of the duct steel circle 10 thick and slightly less wide inner diameter hulls;
- attached to the upper side of the disc chain or steel cable for lifting the air duct;
- welded to the underside of the disc corners or channels that create an optimal gap between the disc and the fuel;
- smoke outlet done slightly above the cleanout door.
Such boilers and furnaces work on sawdust as follows:
- lifting the air duct with a cable or chain, load the oven or boiler with sawdust, ramming as much as possible their;
- loading sawdust, from above lay kindling- paper and various chips;
- waiting for the kindling to light up, lower the duct and close the loading door;
- air supply is set to maximum, due to which the upper layer of sawdust flares up and the furnace / boiler goes into operation;
- fire and smoke rise through the space between the disc and the body and heats both the duct and the case;
- the oven starts radiate warmth and the boiler heats the water jacket;
- as the sawdust burns out, their level becomes lower and optimal fuel combustion.
With bottom air supply
Boilers and stoves without a descending air duct are arranged and operate in a slightly different way. They have the air duct goes to the bottom of the firebox.
Such heating devices download through hinged cover... The chimney is connected just below the hinged cover.
Hinged cover seal asbestos cord or tape.
During loading, a long wooden cone-shaped plug is inserted into the air duct (the upper diameter is 1.5–3 times larger than the lower one).
The sawdust is tamped tightly and after the loading is completed, the plug is pulled out - through the resulting channel, air enters the upper burning layer of sawdust.
Kindling is laid on the sawdust and set on fire. When the kindling has flared up, close the hinged cover, setting the chimney damper and the air supply regulator to the maximum draft mode.
After the sawdust flared up, reduce air supply and the furnace or boiler goes into a long burning (smoldering) mode.
Stoves, boilers and air heaters: which is better
When choosing a sawdust heating system, consider the following:
- water volume in a water jacket the boiler should make up 10-15% of the total volume of water from the heating system, so it is advisable to use forced movement of water through thin tubes;
- water boiler cost"Stropuva" starts from 65 thousand rubles, and the price of do-it-yourself sawdust boilers is 30-50 thousand rubles, including the cost of the material;
- air heating not only heats, but also dries the air;
- water heating pipes can be hidden under the trim, and pipes air heating have to lay out due to the large cross-section (the pipe diameter in cm is equal to half the area of the room in m²);
- find industrial heaters operating on sawdust (boilers and furnaces that heat air, which is then supplied to rooms through pipes) of long burning very difficult, and their cost often exceeds the price of the Stropuv boiler;
- the cost of manufacturing heaters is comparable to the cost of manufacturing a boiler;
- the costs of material and laying of water and air heating are approximately the same and amount to 15-20 thousand rubles for one room of 15–20 m 2;
- furnace manufacturing costs are 20-50 thousand rubles depending on the size.
Heaters and boilers are well suited for heating big houses, because they heat the coolant, which then flows through pipes or air ducts to remote rooms. For small houses a stove installed at the junction of all rooms is preferable.
If someone is not satisfied appearance iron furnace, it can be overlaid brick lattice- it will improve the appearance of the oven and will not interfere with the movement of air.
Useful video
In this video, the owner of a private house explains how prolong burning sawdust in the oven:
Outcomes
Cheap or free sawdust effectively replace firewood or coal as fuel for heating. but burning them in conventional furnaces and boilers is not worth it because they are intended for other fuels.
For such heating, sawdust burners are made with their own hands or ordered from a master. The cost of purchasing or manufacturing such heating appliances will pay off in 5-10 years if you have the opportunity to get the sawdust free or cheap.
In contact with
For heating small spaces often use air heaters or expensive stoves. But, having shown a little ingenuity and skill, you can build from practically waste materials long-burning furnace operating on one of the cheapest types of fuel - sawdust... good for its simplicity. It is easy to install it in a greenhouse, heat the garage with it, country house or other premises small size... This does not require the cost of electricity or gasoline.
This environmentally friendly and most economical type of fuel is of several types. One of them - chips and sawdust in bulk... They are easy to obtain from woodworking factories where they are waste or if there is a carpentry shop nearby. Briquettes and pellets are made using a special press. This process with the help of simple devices can be adjusted at home.
The next type of fuel is pellets... They are much more profitable than ordinary firewood (they burn longer, and the cost is several times lower). They are very convenient to transport and store. Pellets are small capsules (about eight millimeters in diameter) made of compressed sawdust.
In addition to pellets and loose sawdust, they are used for long-burning stoves fuel briquettes ... They are cylindrical, rectangular, six- and octahedral (Pinii-Kei).
Video:
Benefits of using sawdust as fuel
- Low fuel cost;
- Convenience of storage;
- Heat transfer and burning duration are higher than that of ordinary firewood or peat briquettes;
- Pellets do not emit soot and toxic substances during combustion;
- Combustion products remaining from the incineration of sawdust - good fertilizer for garden;
- There is much less garbage from sawdust and pellets than from wood and coal;
- Due to the fact that the sawdust is always dry, they can be used to light the stove at any convenient time, while firewood sometimes requires additional drying;
- When burning fuel briquettes or sawdust, much less ash and ash is formed than when burning wood.
Disadvantages of using sawdust
The disadvantages include dust from sawdust, which can in rare cases cause an allergic reaction, as well as the fact that, if stored improperly, sawdust can ignite spontaneously. However, both of these factors are extremely rare.
How to make fuel briquettes for use in a long burning oven
To make sawdust briquettes you will need:
- wooden beams, nails and hammer for assembling the press;
- two metal cylinders - forms for future briquettes;
- sawdust;
- water.
Step-by-step instruction:
Another similar way to make fuel briquettes for the stove is to put together several wooden boxes with many cells, mix sawdust with water and a small amount of clay, hammer this mixture tightly into the cells of the boxes to let the water come out. In a day, we take out the fuel briquettes and use them for their intended purpose.
Do-it-yourself Bubafonya oven on sawdust
Since the combustion temperature of sawdust is higher than the combustion temperature of wood, the walls of the fuel tank must be made thicker - at least 10 mm. And to ensure fire safety the stove is installed on a foundation and equipped with a reflective screen, a water circuit, or the stove is covered with refractory bricks.
Furnace mounting material:
- thick-walled barrel with a sealed bottom (or used gas bottle) for the firebox, it is advisable to choose a volume of about two hundred liters;
- two pieces of metal pipes;
- channel;
- sheet metal;
- grinder, to it stripping and cutting wheels;
- hammer;
- welding machine and electrodes;
- hacksaw for metal;
- bricks and cement for the foundation.
Work must be performed in accordance with safety regulations. In addition, work must be performed near the source of electricity.
1. Fuel tank
If a barrel or can is used, the top must be trimmed. To do this, use a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. According to the marking, the upper part is cut off, carefully making sure that the tool does not overheat, and the cutting line is even. The remainder can then be used as a furnace lid.
In the event that the fuel tank is made by welding from sheet metal, it is pre-bent into a radius by bending machine then connect welding machine in the form of a cylinder. To this cylinder, a bottom of the appropriate size is cut from a piece of sheet metal and welded, observing the quality of the weld.
The diameter of the clamping circle should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the fuel tank. This will ensure its free movement in the furnace as the fuel burns. In the center of the pressure circle, a hole must be cut equal to the diameter of the supply pipe. After that, the channel is sawn into 4 equal plot and weld them to the circle. This is necessary to increase the weight of the pressure wheel and provide additional structural strength.
The length of the supply pipe is calculated as follows: measure the length of the fuel tank and add from 20 to 50 cm to this value.
The supply pipe and the clamping circle are connected by welding.
It is necessary to make a damper on the pipe, with the help of which the amount of air entering the furnace will be regulated. The simplest shutter is a small metal circle with a steel bar handle for ease of use.
3. Discharge pipeline
To attach it to the firebox, markings are made on the top of the tank and a hole is cut out equal to the diameter of the outlet pipe. After that, the pipe is attached by welding. The pipe is connected to the main heating system by means of a clamp and heat insulating material(fiberglass).
4. Cover
The lid is cut from a piece sheet metal or use a cut part of the barrel for this. A hole for the supply pipe is cut in the center and handles are welded from bent metal rods.
To protect the stove from overheating and improve heat distribution, to the outside of the fuel tank ( metal corners small length) weld a sheet of metal - a reflector.
The foundation is laid out from two rows of refractory bricks.
How to properly drown "Bubafonya" with sawdust
Before placing sawdust in the "Bubafnya", a small diameter pipe is placed inside the combustion chamber. Sawdust is laid around this pipe, compacting them tightly.
When the sawdust is stacked to the very top, the pipe is pulled out. Thus, the sawdust is stacked in the furnace so that the resulting combustion products will be blown down by the air flow (draft) into the shaft formed by the pipe.
The sawdust is set on fire with a torch or matches, covered with a pressure disk, a lid, and for several minutes they observe the furnace, adjusting the gate valve gap and, accordingly, the draft and the intensity of combustion.
Thus, from the cheapest materials, a long-burning furnace with biologically pure fuel with an efficiency of almost 100% is obtained. The Bubafonya oven on sawdust is the most the best option for thrifty owners.
20.10.2011, 10:07
I tried to drown it with sawdust last winter, I liked it very much, I had to keep the furnace door ajar all the time, and just keep it, this is not for the faint of heart.
sawdust is different, accumulated from all sorts of handicrafts, from shavings to fine dust.
I threw it on the hot coals, did not have time to move away, there was a clap, a door for plowing, a tongue of flame a meter or two from the firebox, I close it, I repeat, there are frequent claps inside the firebox, as if there is a lack of oxygen, the fire "breaks down", slams. I opened the door, at first it puffed, then it began to burn, burn powerfully. moreover, the combustion is not constant but stepwise, it grows, then it dies down. this happens in windy weather.
and if you threw in sawdust, then it should be a small amount, and very thin layer, and I really do not recommend wiggling them.
the most valuable science is its own, so as not to talk about fools
The funny thing is that today the same situation happened with the claps in the stove, but with firewood, I had to make a gap in the furnace door and heat it like that. there used to be cracks around the door, the solution fell out, yesterday I covered it up ...
20.10.2011, 10:29
This is a well-known case with sawdust.
With firewood, so as not to "clap" - you need to lay them tightly, and melt the bookmark with the upper ignition.
Firewood is tucked tightly so that the fire does not "fall" quickly down.
20.10.2011, 10:49
Adequate air flow must be ensured into the firebox through the blower door. If there is no blower (ash) door, then air is supplied to the firebox through the firebox door, which opens slightly. If there is not enough air flow, then combustible gases accumulate in the firebox, which flash, creating cotton, or I can even create an explosion that can blow the stove with bricks scattering several meters around.
In classic Turkish sauna stoves hammamah is heated with sawdust, they are constantly thrown into the open hearth furnace with pinches. Burning sawdust turns out to be bright, hot and without pops.
20.10.2011, 12:30
Smirnov stoked sawdust in the hearth:
With my options for assembling the furnaces sawdust - and that was burned. I saw here on the forum about this topic: everyone says that it is not possible, but this spring, due to the lack of firewood, we were heated, and nothing heats up too badly.
They poured a bucket of sawdust into the furnace, a little firewood (slats, chopped boards) on top to create heat. You flood, as the active phase passed, we roll up the door immediately. Just in case - no matter what explodes - you open the door in five minutes, if a small cotton or gas buzzes - well, wait a little longer, if not, roll it up and don't look any more. The sawdust burns out clean, no need to stir up or follow.
Only he first has sawdust and upper ignition with wood. and throwing sawdust into a hot furnace - and there will be extreme: evil: they will immediately give out volatile ones!
20.10.2011, 14:11
Soon I will have to write in red letters - "Akhtung! Pokryshkin is in the sky!"
20.10.2011, 14:42
In the doors for hearth furnaces, holes are specially provided, depending on the design, they can be adjustable or not!
And if "may not be" or "may be absent altogether"? And such deaf Soviet doors are often set, so then you have to
Heat the stove with the door ajar
so that air for burning wood or the same sawdust gets into the firebox. : lol:
20.10.2011, 15:34
Damn it! One pearl follows another. Do not believe anyone who says that in the absence of a ventilation door, you have to heat from a slightly open furnace! In the doors for hearth furnaces, holes are specially provided, depending on the design, they can be adjustable or not! To heat the stove with the door open (ajar) only the moron can wash it, this is not a fireplace!
Misha-Misha, here's my question:
In a nearby building goods store they sell cast-iron doors ... and SVT too.
So there are two options for locking the door:
1.) this type of bayonet grip on sealed
2.) such a peg is an olive, for simple
And now the question: the olive is designed so that the door can be closed completely and the door can be closed with a half-centimeter gap ...
What for? If everything is as you say
And - on SVT
20.10.2011, 15:41
Here is a domestic old stove door with the ability to adjust the side slot for blowing air, as well as for tightly closing the firebox after the coals have completely burned out:
Http://chel.barahla.net/images/photo/1/20110503/4402767/big/130445134895625500.jpg
20.10.2011, 16:28
I explain about the old door - when you open it, there will be a second door (or there will be fastening holes from it). Holes are made in the second door in the lower third of the height. The first door is open during the fire. At the final stage, when coal burns up, the door closes tightly, preventing cold air from entering the furnace. It was believed that the coal would be enough to burn out using the air passing through the masonry and micro-crevices. This allowed the furnace to operate without views and valves, and also slightly increased its efficiency due to the afterburning of a large amount of coal. Enough of these doors have passed through my hands.
Can you brand the door about SVT?
If there are no holes in the purchased doors, then a drill is taken, a set of drills and they appear in a wonderful way.
This is such a common truth that it is even inconvenient to speak. Stoves are not heated with open (ajar) doors! Even in round ovens and hobs, in any run-down village, you will see homemade tin doors with air vents and screens that reflect the heat from firewood and sparks.
Although I have seen stoves that had no doors at all. They were covered either with a sheet of iron, secured with a poker, or a lid from a bucket, or hanging, bent, a piece of tin, or bricks placed on an edge. But I will never recommend this to anyone!
20.10.2011, 16:44
there will be a second door (or there are mounting holes from it)
There was not always a second wall in such doors, although the door is much better with a second wall, especially in a heavily loaded firebox.
If there are no holes in the purchased doors, then a drill is taken, a set of drills and they appear in a wonderful way.
Only these drills must be special (special sharpening and a special grade of alloy) and with a constant supply of kerosene or liquid oil to the drilling site to cool the drill, and you need to drill at low speeds. : lol: And this magic method will be very, very time consuming. : lol:
Although I have seen stoves that had no doors at all. They were covered either with a sheet of iron, secured with a poker, or a lid from a bucket, or hanging, bent, a piece of tin, or bricks placed on an edge. But I will never recommend this to anyone!
And I had to see heating stoves with a hearth furnace, but there were no slots or holes in the cast-iron furnace door, which did not interfere with operating such a furnace for decades with the door ajar to provide air to the firebox. : lol:
Necessity for invention is cunning! : lol:
20.10.2011, 17:42
Here, not handicraft, but stove-makers and people who want to learn.
If there was no second door in the door, then this door is intended for installation in an oven with a blower.
I drill furnace doors right on site, with a simple drill and drills purchased from a nearby store. There are no problems with drilling even though our doors are Finnish!
And I know this because I constantly work with stove appliances. http://download81.files.mail.ru/SQ0N6Z/39c0941453be102572ef0a88d9f0a691/DSC05879.JPG
20.10.2011, 17:58
Can you brand the door about SVT?
Misha-Misha, I won't. SVT is poured there, the brand is not.
But the model is without a handle with a claw, the handle is an ordinary button, the door closes by hitting a bead (olive) simply by tilting vertically in the loop. There are several beads (like several bones in the abacus), i.e. several fixed positions, not only closed
This kind of
http://www.bani-pechi.ru/thumb_b/300x300/349.jpg
20.10.2011, 19:39
I hate to upset you, but this oven door. As you understand, this is the only way you can regulate the temperature in the oven. wood stove... You can find a similar device in our ovens. Only there is a plate with slots on top welded. It's okay, I also sometimes tap a brick with a screwdriver when I'm too lazy to crawl for a pick, and there are no halves or quarters at hand: D
Zhirnov Vladimir
20.10.2011, 20:44
Michelle, I put this on the furnace. There were no others in the vicinity.
Igor Sergeevich with quirks, never mind. We have known each other for a long time ...: D
20.10.2011, 21:01
So I will put one tomorrow. only without glass. And I'll drill holes in it. But I just explained why there is such a little thing, so that people would not be mistaken.
Quirks, let it be, we are all with quirks, but I endured when he advised sticking the ladder in the firebox to basalt cardboard, explaining that it would be good to stand ... But to heat it with an open door ...
In general, I think that with such advice he disgraces everyone present here.
It is clear that this site is free, but not to the same extent. Stove-makers talk here, so why say such nonsense.
Small waste resulting from the processing of various types of wood is often used as fuel. To do this, sawdust is pressed in different ways, obtaining such types of solid fuels as briquettes or small granules (pellets). And only then they are loaded into a heating boiler. However, it is much easier and cheaper to burn sawdust without any processing, the main thing is to do it correctly. A homemade sawdust boiler can be very useful here, and will be discussed in this material.
Types of homemade sawdust boilers
Everyone knows that dry wood waste burns out quickly, releasing all the thermal energy in a short period of time. If the sawdust is damp, then on the contrary, they smolder and smoke for a long time, not wanting to flare up normally. In this case, only their joint use with firewood saves. To do this with high efficiency, home craftsmen - craftsmen have long invented and implemented 2 types of heat generators:- units where fuel burns from top to bottom;
- mine-type boiler plants.
- Use waste efficiently, getting maximum heat from them;
- Ensure complete combustion of sawdust, no residue;
- Extend the interval between furnace loads by making it as large as possible.
Wood waste burns in the firebox of a home-made boiler for a long time - from 8 to 12 hours. This criterion depends on the design features of a particular unit, which will be discussed below. The main advantage of hand-made sawdust heat sources is an affordable price. Even if you entrust all the work to the masters, paying for it at a decent level, then the whole project will cost at least half the cost of purchasing branded heating equipment.
Top burning sawdust boiler
The prototype of this type of heat generators is the well-known steel stove "bubafonya", and the factory counterpart is the products of the well-proven Lithuanian brand STROPUVA. Structurally, the boiler is made in such a way that the fuel cannot "hang" in the firebox during operation, for which the combustion chamber of the unit is made round. The outer casing can repeat the outline of the firebox, but it can also be rectangular, in which case the volume of the water jacket increases.But the whole trick is that a long-burning boiler on sawdust burns them not in the traditional way, but on the contrary, from top to bottom. In this case, the remnants of fuel in the chamber are constantly pressed down by a massive load, repeating the internal configuration of the chamber and freely moving up and down along it. The load has a hole in the middle, to which a long pipe is welded to the outside through the top of the unit. Thus, air, passing through the pipe from top to bottom, enters the firebox through the hole and is distributed to the sides thanks to diffusers welded from the bottom of the load.
The key to efficient and complete combustion of wood in the boiler is the presence of good natural draft in the chimney. If this is not possible, then you will need to install a fan, as is done on some models of Lithuanian factory counterparts. When the chamber is fully loaded, the fuel gradually burns out, while the load drops lower and lower, delivering air directly to the combustion zone.
The duration of work from one tab is up to 12 hours, the ash residue is very small. The problem of raw sawdust is solved simply: they should be filled up with firewood or laid in lower layers, with dry fuel on top. True, the damp sawdust will still take away part of the released heat for evaporation of moisture and during this time the boiler efficiency will be reduced. This law can only be circumvented in one way - to dry the tree in advance.
Mine boiler for sawdust
Mine home-made boilers operating on sawdust are more difficult to manufacture and more cumbersome, but they have one advantage over upper combustion units. They are less demanding on the quality of the fuel, or rather, on its moisture content. On the other hand, very damp sawdust cannot be burned, since they cannot enter the chamber through the grate. The unit itself consists of two sections - a fuel bunker and a firebox with a fire-tube heat exchanger. The structure in contact with flame and flue gases is welded from steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm, the rest of the metal - 2 mm. The unit diagram is shown in the figure:The principle of operation of the heat generator is simple: sawdust is gradually poured down into the firebox, where it burns when air is supplied by a fan or due to the natural draft of the chimney. It turns out that the duration of combustion is limited only by the volume of the bunker, and each homeowner can make it taking into account the availability of space for installing the boiler. The completeness of combustion is also ensured by a stable air supply, and to control the operation of the unit, it is recommended to equip it with an automation kit, as shown in the video:
A do-it-yourself sawdust heating boiler can compete on an equal footing with factory products in terms of work efficiency. In terms of cost and reliability, he will even benefit, since a good master, worried about his reputation, will make a decent margin in everything so that his brainchild will function for a long time and safely.