Automatic swing gates are a convenient and necessary thing, but quite expensive.
If you do not want to spend extra money, then you can make an automatic swing gate with your own hands.
You just need to take into account that this process is quite complicated, moreover, it requires the utmost precision.
This article describes the process of building swing gates, their mechanisms and how to use electric drives in the installation process.
Mount nuances
The fact that so many people strive to simplify their lives with the help of such devices is not surprising, since many people are attracted by the remote control of gates.
In addition, many people need automatic garage doors, because it is convenient: you do not need to run several times from the car and back.
Automatic garage doors can be found very often in private sectors.
In principle, any person who knows a little about mechanics can make an electric gate. You just need to remember that automation requires precision and accuracy.
Automatic gates are designed in such a way that this mechanism can be controlled using a button. Usually it is done near the exit from the site or at the entrance to the garage.
You can often see such gates near private houses. However, it should be noted that they are divided into three types - ordinary swing gates, garage and sliding gates. Each of these types has its own characteristics.
The simplest and most common type of automatic gates are swing gates.
Their popularity is that, outwardly, in design, they resemble ordinary gates that are manually opened, since they have two leaves and open outward.
In theory, all that needs to be done for them is to install electric drives, and the job is done.
However, even such a gate must be done very carefully, strictly following all the instructions.
That is why some trust various companies that install such a passage to the courtyard of the house, although no one is immune from mistakes - even professionals can sometimes do something wrong.
The reason for this is some of the nuances in the design of such gates.
It is necessary to calculate very well the position of the sash to the aisle post and be able to use the sash stops correctly.
The last point is especially important if the automation is used without a limit switch.
And this is not to mention the fact that the design of such gates involves a lot of wires for electricity and other important devices for work.
All this adds to the complexity for the amateur or beginner. If at least one of the basic principles is violated or made poorly, incorrectly, then there is a great risk of breakage of the automatic mechanism, supporting structure and other unpleasant things.
However, if the gate is made correctly, then such a device can serve for a long time. It is very durable, and the doors themselves open in about 15 seconds.
All this especially applies to swing gates, since they are often made of wood.
In addition, the design of such a passage is relatively simple and will require the least cost than when building a sliding gate or garage.
However, the disadvantage of swing leaves is that any obstacle in the path of such a gate can provoke a failure, so before opening it, you need to check for stones, etc.
To reduce the risk of breakdown and malfunction, you need to regularly lubricate those components that need it.
Otherwise, if a failure does occur, the flaps close very slowly or do not work at all. You need to be very serious about the repair and finding out the cause of the breakdown.
Required materials for swing gates
It is possible to make electric gates with remote control only if there is a great desire to spend time choosing the necessary tools and devices.
But if you approach this with all responsibility, then half of the job is done, and the process itself may be simpler and even enjoyable.
As mentioned above, swing gates are the most popular and durable, since the doors themselves can be made from anything (wood or forged metal), the principle of the device will be the same.
The only thing worth thinking about is the place for opening the doors: it is necessary that nothing obstructs or interferes with them.
For the frame of swing gates, a very rigid profile is most often used, and on top it is sheathed using iron or wooden panels.
What the gate consists of:
- bolt;
- racks for securing the shutters;
- metal carcass;
- sash with the desired cladding;
- a set of hinges (garage type);
- handles for opening;
- electric drives.
For such gates, you will need the appropriate materials:
- reinforcement (diameter - 14 mm);
- two pipes with a section (one - 60x30 mm, the other - 40x30 mm);
- wood, metal sheets, etc. (to make the cladding);
- a pipe with a section of 100x100 mm (you can use a channel);
- cement solution;
- bricks;
- solvent;
- current conductor (electrode);
- enamel (it is best to use alkyd);
- three-wire cable;
- self-tapping screw for metal;
- pipes with PVC insulation;
- primer.
To do the job efficiently, you will need from the tools:
- Angle grinder (grinder);
- shovel;
- welding device;
- screwdriver;
- ruler or tape measure;
- level (device to determine the deviations of the object);
- paint brush;
- metal brush;
- phase indicator (screwdriver indicator);
- RCD (residual current device).
How it all looks in the finished state, you can see in the picture below:
The first step is to make the gate itself, and only then proceed with the automation, which includes various electric drives.
Especially often people make drives for garage doors, since it is convenient to open them not by themselves, but by remote means.
In order to easily carry out automation on garage doors, you need to take into account the size of the gate and deal with their opening: if the doors are too heavy, then you need to make them lighter.
Gate making process
Racks for fastening the shutters can be made of metal pipes (the pipe size must be at least 100x100 mm). If the structure is too heavy, then you can make a metal frame in the shape of the letter P.
Concrete, timber and brick can be used as racks. In order for the racks to hold tightly, it is best to make a glass-type concrete foundation.
Even if you use wood or brick as fortifications, you need to concrete the racks into the ground for at least one meter.
Since metal pipes are most often used as a support for the gate, this option should be considered first.
This pipe support consists of an inner and an outer part. The inner part is a 40x30 mm pipe, the outer part is a 60x30 mm pipe, which were indicated above.
The inside is welded to the outside so that the whole fixture is stiff and stands stronger.
After the two pipes have been welded, you need to clean the resulting structure from corrosion, and then cover with a solvent and a primer. After drying, the structure should be covered with alkyd enamel.
The option of brick racks is possible. To do this, a pipe with a section (100x100 mm) is placed in the center, then reinforcement is welded to it.
Three metal elements should be brought out to the outside, the parts with which the pipe with a cross-section will be attached to the brick pillars.
Later, hinges are attached to this entire structure with the help of a welding machine. About 1 m from the surface of the earth, you need to attach embedded parts in order to mount the wires.
After the structure of the door frame is ready and dry, you can begin to sheathe it. This can be done using wood, metal plates, etc.
In order for the selected material to attach well to the sashes, it is best to purchase self-tapping screws for metal or rivets.
To exclude any errors and design flaws, you need to carefully check the stability of the gate and various distortions.
Such a check is carried out using a level to determine the distortions in buildings.
It must be remembered that garage doors should not be very heavy, since some problems may be encountered when conducting electricity.
Conducting electricity
After the gate is ready, you need to supply electricity to it. This is the most crucial and important moment in the construction, since it is necessary to accurately make all the necessary measurements.
But for this, you first need to choose the right drive and check how light the leaves at the gate are.
If they are heavy enough and difficult to open, then you need to find out the reason, correct the defect, and only then start conducting electricity and automation. Otherwise, such gates will break in less than a year.
In addition, you need to decide on the choice of an electric drive for the gate. To select it correctly, you need to know the exact weight of the entire gate structure, the distance from the hinge on the leaf to the support post and the linear dimension of the gate.
There is a linear and lever type of electric drives. Technically, there is not much difference between them, but the first type takes up less space, it is not so visible.
The second type is more suitable for a garage, it is more bulky, but also more reliable than linear.
However, before installing the linkage, it is necessary to very precisely adjust the movement of the leaves.
For the manufacture of automatic gates, you will need certain skills in working with technology; you do not need to believe those who convince you otherwise. This has been repeatedly proven by folk craftsmen.
The types of automatic gates, as well as how to make automation for them, will be discussed in this article.
The popularity of such gates has influenced the growth of supply, and numerous modern models can be roughly divided into three large groups:
- swing structures;
- recoil;
- garage.
Considering the pros and cons of each group, we can conclude that swing gates are the best option.
The main advantages of the swing structure are simplicity and ease of use, moreover, when opening it does not require a lot of free space. It is these positive qualities that determine the popularity of such gates.
Important! The average operating time of swing gates is approximately 50 thousand open / close cycles.
What is required in the work
Here is a list of all the components that will be required for installation:
Manufacturing instruction
The manufacture of gates must begin with the choice of material.
Stage 1. Material selection
In this case, everything depends solely on the preferences and financial capabilities of the site owner. For the door leaf you can use:
- corrugated board;
- polycarbonate;
- iron picket fence;
- steel sheet;
- tree;
- forging.
Stage 2. Size
After choosing the material, you need to decide on the dimensions of the structure. It is on the size that the weight of the gate and the distance required to move the leaves depend.
Important! It is desirable that this distance be 1.5 times the opening itself.
Stage 3. Support pillars
One of the following materials can be used to make the support pillars:
When installing, the pillars must go into the ground at least a meter, otherwise in winter they will shift along the vertical axis, as a result of which the entire structure is deformed.
When installing the support, you must:
Stage 4. Foundation
The foundation is the base of the gate that performs two functions at once. Firstly, it will withstand the weight of the structure, moreover, considerable. Secondly, a channel for the movement of the rollers is installed in it.
Outward swing gates - scheme of embedded elements
Below is the technology for laying the foundation.
Step 1. A U-shaped trench with a size of 45x100 cm and a depth of 115-120 cm is pulled out, after which a crushed stone "pillow" of the same thickness is filled up.
Step 2. A channel is made for the movement of the rollers (or "banquet", as it is also called). To do this, you will need steel reinforcement ø12 cm and the channel itself 20 cm wide. Meter “swords” are cut from the reinforcement and welded to the shelves of the channel.
Step 3. "Bench" is installed and poured with concrete.
Important!
1. At the end of the pouring, the concrete must be allowed to stand for at least a week.
2. During this time, it must be watered daily to avoid cracking.
3. The upper part of the "bench" is installed flush with the road.
Stage 5. Support frame
It is better to use a profiled steel pipe for the manufacture of the supporting frame. The manufacturing procedure takes place in several stages.
Step 1. The profile is cut into pieces of the required length.
Step 2. Pipes are cleaned of rust.
Step 3. The surface of the profile is treated with a solvent, after which an anti-corrosion primer is applied.
Step 4. The frame is welded.
Step 5. Welding seams are cleaned, after which the entire structure is primed again.
Some helpful tips.
- A pipe with a cross section of 3x4 cm can be used as stiffeners.
- The outer contour is made of a 4x6 cm profiled pipe.
- All components of the frame and guide should only be assembled in a staggered manner. Otherwise, when the temperature rises, the gate will surely "drive".
Stage 6. Sewing, painting
The paint is applied after the primer is completely dry. It is recommended to use alkyd enamel, moreover, to apply it in at least two layers - this is how the gate will look "rich". Pause between applying the first and second coats to allow the paint to dry.
Important! Sewing material is selected based on the wishes and financial capabilities.
The material is fixed on the stiffeners with rivets or self-tapping screws.
Step 7. Installation
A structure is being assembled, catchers are welded to the support posts, automation is installed (we will talk about its manufacture a little later). After this, the gate is tested.
Important! This design will cost several times cheaper than the factory model. You can save even more by making an automatic drive yourself.
To manufacture the drive, you will need two carriages from a bicycle with driving sprockets.
Step 1. The bike frame is trimmed so that the vertical tube extending from the axle protrudes 2-3 cm above the sprocket.
Step 2. On the one hand, you only need to remove the pedal, while on the other, the connecting rod is additionally removed.
You will need two such sprockets, the main thing is that they are the same size and with the same tooth pitch (one chain will be used for the drive).
Step 3. Carriages are welded to the top of the frame. It is important that the sprockets located in the corners are opposite each other. The connecting rods are parallel to the frame and the connecting rods to the gate are matched to the dimensions of the sprockets. When the latter rotate, the bar connecting the gate leaf with the connecting rod will make the canvas move.
Important! It is difficult to determine the exact length of the bar, because there are many models of bicycles. Let's just note that a product with a diameter of M-8 will be quite enough. The bar itself is made of steel strip.
Step 4. The chain is put on the sprockets. This must be done crosswise so that they rotate in opposite directions. To make such a chain, you will need several bicycle chains at once - they are connected to each other.
The chain needs to be well tensioned, but even then it will sag and therefore jump off. To avoid this, a couple of metal strips are welded to the frame, which will support the chain and at the same time serve as guides. There is another option - to fix the wide rollers so that the chain moves along them.
Important! The chain must be put on when the gate is closed. Next, the design is checked - one sash is pushed out, while the second should move symmetrically to the first. If the flaps overlap, then you need to move the chain one tooth.
Installing an electric motor
So, to open the gate, you either need to push one leaf or pull the chain towards you. In the future, you can automate the design - for example, install an electric motor and connect it to gearboxes from car wipers. The advantage of this option is that even an old battery is quite applicable as an energy source, so that the automation will not depend on electricity. But there is one drawback: the flaps may open too slowly due to the low power of the battery.
Video - DIY automatic gates
In addition, you can use a motor from a washing machine. The average power of such motors is 110-115 W, the rotation speed is 1500 rpm. The gearbox in this case will be a screw jack for a car. The jack needs to be slightly modernized - install a pulley from the same washer behind the bevel gear. So the jack will turn into a linear gearbox (or an actuator, as it is also called).
Video - Automatic swing gates. Installation
The jack is welded parallel to the chain in such a way that when moving, its slider pulls the chain behind it. To connect the latter to each other, you can use ordinary steel wire.
Important! When the power goes out, you will have to unwind the wire every time to open the gate.
To connect the motor to the pulley, a regular belt from a washing machine is used. The engine speed will decrease by about 1: 4, so it is advisable to make the pulley yourself, moreover, the minimum diameter.
The gate is now ready for use. For a more detailed acquaintance with automation, you can watch a thematic video.
Video - Homemade swing gates
Not everyone can create automatic gates on their own, because the course of this work requires the mandatory supervision of a professional and his advice. In this regard, in most cases, the enthusiasm of those wishing to independently master this work is not enough to the end.
But what better advisor for doing professional work than a good article detailing the step-by-step construction of this necessary and convenient part of our home? We offer you an article about the methodical and detailed construction of different types of automatic gates.
There is no doubt that the current automatic gates, in comparison with the classical ones, were created not only to ensure the safety of personal territory, but also to surround them with comfort and modern achievements. Their advantageous feature is confirmed by the huge market supply and demand. But regardless of the countless number of existing models, they are divided into three types: swing, sliding and garage. Although these types perform a similar function, the peculiarity of their manufacture is completely different. Below we will consider these features in detail.
This type of gate is the most common among supporters of classic and modern, because on the one hand, they have a conventional design with a budgetary cost, on the other hand, they are very comfortable. But the only requirement for their installation and intended use is sufficient space for free opening and closing of both parts of the gate. Usually, the inner part or the base of these doors is made of a special metal profile of special rigidity. In this case, the outer part of the profile is covered with the desired coating at the request of the owner, for example, the coatings can be wood, metal-plastic or just metal. The overall structure consists of the following parts:
- Supports for attaching and fixing;
- Headset with ears or loops;
- Gate leaves;
- Corner and center stops;
- Gate valve;
- A set of handles;
- Support as a holder for the electric drive when it is fastened to the shutter and gate support;
- A set of electric drives "usually two pieces".
When creating a support for attachment and anchoring, it is better to use a steel pipe. But it must be remembered that when using them, the gates become quite heavy and in most cases this does not suit the owners. Therefore, in order to reduce their weight, instead of steel pipes, a U-shaped steel base can be used.
For the purpose of durable and safe operation of these gates, the supporting structure for the supports for attachment and fixation is best made from a glass-like foundation. In modern models, special hinges are used to connect the gate shutter to the supports. The hinge kit also includes matching bearings in a special steel alloy. When using bearings, the movement of parts of the gate will be free, and the weight is absolutely not felt. Basically, the number of hinges connected to the gate is four or six pieces. The number of loops depends on the severity of the goal, as well as its scale.
There are two types of hinges, including steel and with a polymer composition. The gate leaf "flap" includes a metal base "frame" and sections for filling. There are three types of fillings, including leaky, full and combined. The base of the gate is made of a steel profile. The filling cells are made from different materials depending on the budget and taste of the owner. Priming and painting of the metal parts of the gate is an obligatory stage in the construction.
Corner or main stops are necessary structural details. In their meaning, they are steel rods that fix the gate leaves in order to prevent their over-set displacements. Stops are permanent and replaceable.
Like other parts, the latch and a set of handles for opening and closing are indispensable elements, since during undesirable factors associated with the inaccessibility of electricity, opening and closing of the gate is done manually.
Electrically operated support for fastening to the flap and gate support, usually sold together. For the purpose of full compatibility of the support with the electric drive, it is advisable to buy them in a set, because there are cases of deviations and differences in parameters during the purchase from different manufacturers.
Detailed description of the composition of the automation
Nowadays, purchasing a headset for a gate automation system is not difficult. But it is necessary to make a list of the parts that make up the system. Including:
- electric actuators on the right and left sides with self-locking functions;
- gate control cell "converter and general control connection diagram in one cell";
- system of photocell parts "transmitters and transmitters, remote control device, etc.";
- connecting parts;
- set of fixing parts.
In order to accurately purchase an automatic swing block, it is imperative to keep in mind the following indicators:
- the mass and scale of the valves;
- indicator of the intensity of the use of "opening and closing the gate";
- Indicator of ease of movement of the gate leaves
Below we will indicate them in detail.
The mass and scale of the gate leaves, interrelated parameters that directly affect the overall performance. Because not weak wind forces will act on the sashes and the drive. Moreover, if we choose an automation system, taking into account the weight of the sash not more than 100 kilograms, and leave the area unattended, then the usual strong wind, which is a frequent occurrence in any climate, can easily disable the new unit of the automation system.
For an error-free choice of a device, it is best to make certain calculations.
Let's imagine that the wind load for your climate is 60 kg / m. During the planning of the construction, an ordinary gate made of profiled sheet with dimensions of 2x2 meters, the wind load will be 2x2x60 = 240 kg. Then we add the average weight of the gate leaves, i.e. 100 kg and in the end you get 340 kg. At the same time, for a high-quality and safe installation of the gate, we will take into account an additional measure of strength, which is suitable for a leaf weighing 450-850 kg for an equal wind load.
The rate of use of "opening and closing the gate" is used to determine the actual work during the hour. This indicator is indicated as a percentage.
Suppose the actual work for an hour was 30 minutes, which will be equal to 50%. This information is indicated in detail in the technical passport.
The indicator of the ease of movement of the gate leaves is completely determined by the error-free installation of stops and hinges "with the avoidance of deviations", as well as the level of the friction indicator in the area of the hinges, which is eliminated by the periodic use of lubricants. Also, this indicator depends on the weather conditions, which create obstacles during the movement of the gate leaves "the influence of snow and heavy icing". This information confirms the opinion of the purchase of the device, taking into account the spare power. Otherwise, manual opening and closing of the gate is possible in winter.
This type of gate is the most common today. Unlike swing gates, these gates have a complex design due to the use of certain fittings. But, fortunately, these days, with the increase in the level of comfort and the market supply, you can buy absolutely any rare expensive part.
But what are the differences and advantages of these gates? Let's list the most essential ones:
- The lower and upper opening parts of the doors do not have guides, which does not create certain restrictions in the vertical dimensions of the incoming vehicles;
- excellent and error-free operation of the automation, which excludes cases of getting out of the vehicle to open and close the gate;
- ease of maintenance.
Building a sliding gate with your own hands is not difficult and can be up to everyone who is familiar with carving and welding. But, like all fashionable and modern designs, they have two serious drawbacks - the expensive price of the automatic part, as well as the presence of a free movement area for the sash. In other matters, these gates have no competitors and they can be used with pleasure for many years. The average cycle of the system of their operation involves fifty thousand actions associated with opening and closing.
The purchase of materials for door trim is entirely up to your taste. Including, you can choose a profiled sheet, lumber, sheets or picket fence made of metal, etc.
Stage one... Let's choose the size of the gate. The geometric dimensions of the movable sash are the main indicator of the gate mass, as well as the choice when purchasing the hardware. The dimensions of the gate also determine the length of the distance required for the leaf to move.
Stage two... Installation of pillars for support. Suitable for the material:
- profile pipe made of steel;
- oak timber;
- steel channel;
- concrete or brick pillar.
Stage three... Let's prepare the foundation of the general structure, i.e. the foundation for the gate. To lay the foundation, it is imperative to dig it out, and build an appropriate foundation pit.
Stage four... Let's build a supporting frame. This part of the gate is best made of a steel profile pipe.
Stage five... Painting of the external structure with door leaf lining.
After the applied primer has completely dried, the paint can be applied immediately. The best and cheapest option is alkyd enamel. The purchase of sewing material depends entirely on your taste.
Stage six... We carry out installation work on the gate.
Installation work of the gate is carried out in the following sequence:
- We install the rollers on the "bench", as well as arrange them in the guide of the door leaf;
- for accuracy during the installation of the gate, we must use a regular or laser level;
- we will make a welding tack of the lower trolleys with rollers to the channel;
- we weld the upper rollers;
- we weld the lower and upper catchers to the pillars for support;
- connect the automatic part;
- check the gate and determine the results.
They are mainly divided into four types:
- based on classic and swing designs;
- with folding function of sectional structure;
- with the function of lifting and turning;
- roller shutters.
For the construction of garage doors with your own hands, the first 3 types correspond most easily.
Due to the huge number of slats, building roller shutter gates with your own hands is not an easy job, so it is best to leave this work to professionals who work in an industrial environment. The creation of swing-type garage doors is fully consistent with the outer doors. But the construction of sectional doors consists of a considerable number of parts that will have to be purchased from the store, and even some of them are, oddly enough, in short supply. For greater savings in energy and finances, it is easier to order these gates than to do it yourself.
A door with a lift and swing function is assembled from an outer frame, a solid and high-quality door leaf and, of course, an automation system. The automation system of these gates performs the function of lifting the curtain up to the height of the ceiling. They are simple and efficient, but they also have a major disadvantage, i.e. high cost of the automation system.
We will tell you about drives for swing gates and their DIY assembly.
Owners of sliding gates do not experience any particular difficulties in completing the sash with a drive mechanism on their own, but when it comes to swing gates, much more effort and knowledge is needed. Today we will tell you about drives for swing gates and their DIY assembly.
There are three main types of gear transmission that convert the rotation of an electric motor into a translational motion with a high torque. The design of the mechanism can be performed:
- in the form of a gear wheel;
- using a screw pin;
- using rack and pinion.
On these three types of kinematics, it is quite possible to assemble your own mechanism, even at home.
The design of a homemade actuator proposed below is not afraid of moisture and dirt, it has a very high effort when moving.
Please note that when the gate is closed, such a self-made drive acts as a lock: it cannot be opened from the outside by pressing the gate leaf.
Preparing the gate and attachment points
Almost any swing gates or doors can be equipped with a drive, but it is better to plan the installation of the mechanics in advance. This applies to the installation of secure mountings for the drive. They look like metal plates with holes at the ends, one of which is fixed strictly perpendicular to the sash, the other is located on a post or fence in the same position.
When installing, the plates must be oriented horizontally and be on the same level. It is very important to take into account the high pulling force of the drive, therefore the best way to attach the plate to the gate is by welding. Plates can be fixed to stone and brick pillars with metal anchors, but it is much better to make embedded elements of steel during the construction phase.
The easiest way is to mount the operator on doors that open to the inside, so that all actuators are in a protected area. A cable must be laid in the door opening, therefore, lay a 32 mm plastic pipe under the road surface in advance.
At the stage of installing the mounts, you will determine the first basic parameters of your drive. Measure the distance between the centers of the holes in the mountings when the gate is closed and when it is open. The latter is the length of your actuator in the stowed position, and the difference between the measured distances is the amount of travel of the device.
You can also measure the opening and closing force of the gate using a hand-held spring scale. Pull the gate wing mount in the direction of the opposite mount, this will help to most accurately select the motor power.
Manufacturing a drive from car windows
Lightweight gate leaves can actually be set in motion by a drive from modified window regulator mechanisms. The advantage of this method is its relative simplicity and almost silent operation of the drive. The disadvantage is the limited tractive effort, which is due to the small working stroke of the mechanism.
There are two types of window regulator designs suitable for use as a gate drive:
- the role of the movable element is played by the toothed rack;
- based on the work of a gear.
In both cases, the drive end is mounted on a metal platform rigidly attached to a post or fence. In this case, the metal rail should move parallel to the plane of the gate and extend towards them.
The lift mechanism needs some work: the installation of an elongated metal rod for a rack or a knee lever for a gear wheel. The joints of the rod with the drive and the gate, as well as the two parts of the knee lever, must be made in the form of a fork joint, like a door closer.
You can ensure good mobility and no backlash if one side of the joint is made in the form of two folded plates, the gap between which is equal to their thickness. The plate of the second part of the hinge will enter this gap. Both elements are connected with a pin or bolt with a self-locking nut.
The main difficulty in using window regulators is to find the most advantageous position of the drive, the hinge and the point where the rod is attached to the gate. You can confidently do this experimentally, first setting the gate in the open position and slowly closing it, monitor the behavior of the drive structure. Do not forget that after installation the mechanism needs a protective cover.
Selection and calculation of engines
As an activator of movement for swing gates, it is advisable to use different types of geared motors. If we are talking about small gates of low weight, the motors of cordless screwdrivers, drives of car wipers, window regulators, etc. will cope with the task. Another question is how you plan to make a clutch for the shafts of such motors.
You can also choose a suitable unit from a wide range of store-bought geared motors, this gives you a lot of freedom in determining the required torque. So, let's say the measured closing force of the heavy gate leaf is 13.5 kg on the manual canter scale. Each kilogram corresponds to 9.8 N, which means that the traction force is 132.3 N. In the case of a rack or pinion drive, this value must be divided by the diameter of the drive wheel, this will be equal to the engine torque.
In the design of the "nut-screw" type, there is a reduction, therefore, additional recalculation is required. Let's say you have chosen an M18 stud with a 2.5 mm thread pitch. This means that in one revolution around a circle with a diameter of 18 mm, the nut makes 2.5 mm of translational movement, so the gear ratio is 7.2: 1. Accordingly, if we divide the gate opening force by the transmission coefficient, we get the required value of the force on the motor shaft: 132.3 / 7.2 ~ 18.4 N or slightly less than 1.9 kilograms with a hairpin radius of 0.9 cm. the torque value for the engine is 1.69 kg / cm.
This is a rather rough calculation that does not take into account the frictional force in the screw drive and other losses, but it helps to determine the minimum allowable motor power. To compensate for energy losses, it is recommended to provide a power reserve of 100–250%.
It is also necessary to calculate the speed of rotation of the shaft. To do this, divide the length of the working stroke by the thread pitch of the screw drive, and you will get the number of revolutions required to fully open the gate. When using a rack and pinion, the calculation is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth of the rack and the drive gear.
Stud for homemade drive
Heavy doors require a drive with a high applied force. Such work is within the power of factory-made drives, but you can create an analogue with your own hands.
The main difficulty is finding a suitable stud. Standard pins are not suitable for the drive: they are made of soft metal, so over time the thread becomes unusable. The way out of the situation is to independently increase the hardness of the metal and the number of contacting turns of the screw thread.
We increase the hardness of the stud
The first problem is solved by hardening. The required heating temperature is provided by ordinary charcoal, it also partially carburizes the metal. Fold a furnace made of brick and cast-iron grate, heat the fuel until the coals are completely burned out. The hardening temperature is 700–800 ° С, which corresponds to the rich red color of the metal. Exposure at this temperature is 13-15 minutes, after which the part must be cooled in used oil. The pin must sink completely and at the same time along its entire length, therefore, spread the steel pipe along the longitudinal seam, plug the ends and use this tray as a quenching bath. The hairpin needs to be slightly shaken in the oil all the time it cools, then take it out and put it back on the coals without wiping it to release the metal. Now heating needs to be performed up to 200-250 degrees, until the metal turns gray with a pronounced formation of scale. After 3-4 minutes of exposure, the product must be cooled in water.
Increasing the thread of the stud
To manufacture a special nut, screw 2–3 standard nuts tightly onto the stud, but do not tighten. Align the edges of the nuts and clamp the assembly very tightly in a vise. Weld the nuts together on all edges and grind the product with the angle grinder to the same size.
Instead of a complicated hardening procedure, you can spend time looking for rolling studs and nuts for them. Such a metal has all the necessary characteristics. In addition, you can choose a thread with a trapezoidal profile: it is much stronger. You can also find a product with a larger thread pitch, which will shorten the operating time of the mechanism.
Assembling the actuator
Sizing the actuator
The actuator has a telescopic device, for its manufacture you will need two steel pipes, one of which enters the other without strong play. You can use a square or round tube, there is not much difference. There should be no traces of rust and scale inside both pipes, so it is better to get new ones.
As for the dimensions of the pipes and studs, you must calculate them yourself, based on the measurements taken. Suppose, when folded, the length of the drive is 110 cm, and its working stroke is 50 cm.This means that the length of the outer tube will be no more than 100 cm, a smaller tube 80 cm long will be inserted into it, and the length of the stud will be a full 110 cm or more, depending on the method of motor mounting. In this case, in the open state, the drive pipes will have an overlap of 30 cm.
Assembling the sliding part
Pass a stud with a nut screwed onto it through the smaller pipe and center it on the longitudinal axis of the pipe. To confidently center the stud, do not oversize pipe. For example, if you are using an M18 nut with a wrench size of 27 mm, select a pipe with a nominal diameter of 25 mm. You just have to grind the nut evenly so that it fits snugly into the pipe. Fasten by welding. Welding is optional on the inside, but you can do this by cutting a "window" into the pipe. When the nut is secured, unscrew the stud from it.
At the end of the stud, an axial-axial bearing with a cage closed on both sides must be fixed. The outer diameter of the bearing should be approximately equal to the inner diameter of the pipe. The bearing should slide inside the pipe without significant resistance, the gap between it and the wall should not exceed 1 mm. If the bearing fits too tightly, carefully sand the end of the outer race with sandpaper. On the stud, the bearing must be firmly clamped between the two nuts. Between them and the bearing, it is imperative to lay 1–2 washers on both sides so that nothing interferes with rotation. Liberally lubricate the stud with lithol and insert it from the free side of the small pipe, then screw it into the welded nut. Perform several test runs along the entire length: the bearing should slide freely inside and not wedge.
Plugs and swivel joints
Next, it's up to the stub. It needs to be made from a metal blank, the diameter of which is slightly less than the diameter of the pipe. To make the drive maintainable, make two or three countersink holes in the pipe, cut a thread for the fastening screws in the corresponding places on the plug. Weld two steel strips with a through hole to the end of the plug so that the gap between them is slightly larger than the thickness of the fastening on the gate leaf. Consider the distance “stolen” by the plug when calculating the total length of the actuator in the stowed position. Before installing the plug, push 50–70 grams of lithol into the pipe, then tighten the stud so that the bearing enters the pipe by 5 centimeters, add grease again and plug the pipe.
Outer tube of the actuator
The stud from the pipe must be unscrewed completely until the bearing rests against the nut. Then the inner tube is inserted into the outer one, and the hairpin is screwed in 5-6 turns.
Next, you need to decide on the method of mounting the motor. Ideally, the cylindrical motor housing should be secured inside the pipe with clamping screws. If you are unable to select a motor of the correct size, weld a piece of larger pipe, steel strip or metal angle to the rear end. This way you can secure the oversized engine in any convenient way.
Important: the distance from the surface of the platform to the central axis of the pipe must be equal to the height of the motor shaft. Position it so that it aligns with the stud as coaxially as possible.
Motor installation and final assembly
Connect the motor shaft to the stud using a coupling. You can purchase it from the arsenal of components for the motor or make it yourself from two small tubes nested one inside the other. Lubricate the stud a second time and secure the engine to the site. Then, by rotating the inner tube, shorten the length of your actuator to the standard open position. Lubricate the entire surface of the inner tube with lithol and fold the actuator completely.
If you will mount the motor inside the pipe, sink it 5–6 cm deep and use a plug similar to the first one. Pass the motor power cable through the hole made in the bottom of the pipe so that no water can flow inside. Or make a hole in the plug itself. In both cases, it will be prudent to install stuffing box entries.
If the engine is mounted on a platform - weld the fork end to it, make sure that the structure is sufficiently rigid and protect the engine with a shroud. Now you just have to install the actuators in place by connecting the fork ends of the plugs with the fasteners on the gates and poles. This can be done with a cotter pin or a self-locking nut bolt.
Wiring diagram
Equipment selection
The engine is controlled according to the classic reversible scheme, but there is one detail. It is clear that swing gates have a limiting bar, so the leaves must be folded in a certain order. When the sash is torn off, the sash begins to move without the bar first, but it should be the last to close. This can be implemented in different ways, the most reliable is a relay with a turn-on delay.
The assembly of modular devices includes:
- four contactors Hager ES424 (DC24V 4NO);
- two time relays Hager EZN001;
- differential automatic machine Hager AD906J;
- power supply unit MeanWell DR-120-12.
The equipment is assembled in a plastic box Hager VECTOR VE118DN with a degree of protection IP 65. The circuit is designed to power two powerful IG-90GM geared motors at a voltage of 24 V.
Power is supplied through the differential circuit breaker to the L and N terminals of the power supply. From its reverse side, two 24 V DC lines are removed, each supplying two paired contactors: power is supplied to the input terminals of one of them in reverse polarity. The outputs of the pairs of contactors are connected in parallel and supply voltage to the geared motors.
Secondary circuits and automation
The contactor control circuit operates at a constant voltage of 24 V. The positive power wire passes through the break contacts of the "stop" buttons and connects to the break contacts of the control buttons, from which power is supplied to the normally open contacts of the opposite buttons. From each button, voltage is applied to two pairs of starters, while one of the normally open contacts serves as a pickup for the coil. The control circuit of the direct starter of the first pair and the reverse starter of the second pair is opened by a normally open relay. Power is supplied to the relay from the normally open contact of the starter of the other group. Thus, a time delay for the sequential movement of the leaves is performed.
Automatic stop of the motors is carried out by the actuation of the end reed switches. They need to be installed along the direction of movement of the actuator, and small neodymium magnets should be glued to the surface of the inner pipes. Thus, when the actuator is fully folded or its stem is extended, the reed switches are triggered, which close the supply circuit of the intermediate relay with a normally closed contact. The relay is connected in parallel and duplicates the Stop button.
Such a drive can also operate under the control of an automatic swing gate, the circuits are similar. Now you can open the swing gate without leaving the car easily and without serious financial investments. published by
Installing a drive for swing gates allows you not to waste energy on manually opening the leaves. This electric mechanism ensures the convenience of operating the door structure at any time of the year. Automatic gates are convenient to use, as their leaves can be opened using a remote control.
Automatic swing gates are easy to operate
Automatic device for swing gates
Installation of automation for swing gates is not associated with great difficulties. At the same time, completing the door leaf with an electric drive that allows the door to be opened outward or inward requires certain knowledge. The automatic swing gate opening system must not be contaminated.
During the operation of the automatic gate, the rotation of the electric motor turns into a translational movement. The types of gear transmission are as follows:
- On a screw pin.
- Rack and pinion.
- In the form of a cogwheel.
Automation of swing gates with the help of them allows you to assemble your own mechanism yourself. The force of the gearbox to open the swing gate must be high. This is ensured by any kind of transmission of the gear during the movement of the web.
Swing gate automation has several types
If the electric gate is closed, then the do-it-yourself mechanical lever drive will function as a lock. Opening the gate will become impossible when you press the leaf. The installation of a home-made operator for swing gates can be easily performed for any type of such a structure.
In order for the installation of automation of garage or street gates to be reliable, it is necessary to plan the installation of the mechanism in advance. Preliminary development is especially important for those who are thinking how to make an automatic gate with their own hands. The fastening elements for the electric drive are 2 metal plates with holes at the ends. One of them is fixed at right angles to the leaf, and the other is installed on the gate structure in the same position as the first.
The plates are positioned horizontally in a plane so that they are at the same level. It is important to consider here that the electric drive has a high tractive effort. The best method to secure the plates to the gate structure is by welding.
The plates on the posts of the gate structure made of stone or brick are fixed with metal anchors. It is best to use steel for making embedded elements. It is easier to install the operator on doors that have to open inward. This will ensure the safety of all devices that will be mounted in the protected location. A 32 mm plastic pipe is laid under the cable in the door opening. The definition of the main options for the electric drive is carried out at the stage of its installation.
Automotive windows for gate drive
To make a drive for swing gates, you can use a modified window regulator device. If the flaps of the structure are lightweight, then it is realistic to set them in motion on the basis of such a device. The main advantage of this method is the simplicity and quiet operation of the electric drive.
Do-it-yourself automatic equipment for swing gates made of auto windows has a significant drawback. It is associated with a limited traction force, which is due to the small working stroke of the mechanism. The operator for automatic swing gates with remote opening can be created not from all types of window regulators. There are only 2 types of such devices suitable for arranging the drive:
- dependent on the movement of the cogwheel;
- with a movable element in the form of a toothed rack.
Both of these cases involve mounting the drive part on a metal platform that is rigidly attached to a fence or post. A metal rail moving parallel to the plane of the gate must move freely towards the swing leaves. Modification of the drive for automatic gates from a window regulator should be carried out in stages. The main difficulty in the process of using these devices is to determine the advantageous position of the following elements:
- drive;
- hinge;
- points of attachment of the rod to the gate.
For good mobility of the metal rail, as well as the absence of backlash, you can make a connection on one side in the form of 2 folded plates. The distance between them should be equal to their thickness. Modification of the lift device is carried out in the following order:
- installation of a rod for a rail made of metal or a knee lever for a toothed wheel;
- connection of a metal rod with a gate;
- checking if the clearance provides the entrance of the plate of the 2nd part of the hinge;
- the elements are connected with a bolt with a special nut.
Having mounted the swing gate mechanism from the window regulator, it is necessary to conduct an experiment by checking its operation. To begin with, the gate wings open and then slowly close. In this case, it is necessary to observe the behavior of the drive structure, the movement must be free. Further, your tested drive should be provided with a protective cover.
The automation of gates, the leaves of which are heavy, involves the installation of a drive that requires a high applied force. It must be manufactured in an industrial environment. If you create its analogue yourself, you will need to choose the required type of hairpin.
Studs for swing gates must be made of high quality
The various stud options offered by the shops are not suitable for making a do-it-yourself drive. They are produced from soft metal, so the threads of these elements may deteriorate over time. To solve this problem, you will need to independently increase the hardness of the metal. Since there are few adjoining threads of the screw drive on standard studs, their number must be increased independently. To do this, follow these steps:
- Charcoal is prepared for metal hardening.
- A brick forge with a cast-iron grate is formed.
- The fuel must be heated until the coals are completely burned out.
- Keep the part on a cast-iron grate for 13-15 minutes at a hardening temperature of 700-800 ° C so that the metal turns red.
- Dissolve the steel pipe along the seam and make plugs at the ends. It is necessary to use it as a hardening bath. Expect that you will have to completely lower the hairpin into the oil into the prepared tub from the pipe.
- Remove and lay the part on the coals again, without wiping the hairpin.
- Quench the part at a temperature of 200–250 ° C so that the metal turns gray with strong scale formation.
- Cool the element in water, holding it for 3-4 minutes.
In order not to waste time on a long hardening procedure, you can use a rolling pin and nut for it. These parts have all the required characteristics.
Machining the rest of the parts during the drive device
The drive mechanism for linear swing gates is equipped with an actuator of appropriate dimensions. This part is made from 2 steel pipes. One of them should effortlessly enter the other. You can use a pipe with a square or round profile. The actuator device is telescopic. The pipes used must be free of scale or rust.
The stud, prepared with a nut screwed onto it, is centered on the longitudinal axis of a small diameter pipe, for example 25 mm. The nut is then sharpened evenly so that it can fully enter the pipe. A welding machine is used for fastening. After fastening the nut, it is necessary to unscrew the stud from it.
The opening mechanism requires the use of a special bearing attached to the end of the stud. This part of the radial-axial type with a closed cage at 2 ends should have a diameter approximately equal to the inner diameter of the pipe. The bearing sliding inside it must not experience any resistance. The distance between the wall and the part should not be more than 1 mm. The end of the clip of the part from the outside, entering the pipe too tight, is processed with sandpaper.
2 nuts are used to fasten the bearing to the stud. For free rotation of the part between the bearing and them, you will need to lay 1–2 washers on 2 sides. The hairpin is lubricated with lithol and inserted into a small pipe. Then it should be screwed into a nut that was welded in advance. After completing all operations, it is necessary to test the operation of the bearing by making a certain number of test runs along the entire length.
The prepared mechanism for swing gates assumes the presence of a plug. It is made from a metal blank. The part must have a smaller diameter than the pipe.
In order not to have to carry out frequent repairs of swing gates, which can break due to a poor-quality drive, 2-3 holes should be made in the pipe. The plug is tapped to match the holes made. 2 steel strips with a through hole are welded to the end of the plug.
When installing the plug, it is necessary to push 50–70 g of lithol into the pipe. Then you need to tighten the stud, which will allow the bearing to enter the pipe by 5 cm. After that, grease is added and the pipe is plugged. The stud from the pipe is unscrewed completely so that the bearing can rest against the nut. Next, the inner pipe must be inserted into the outer one, and the hairpin must be screwed in 5–6 turns.
Plugs and connections for swing gates are made from metal blanks
When arranging automatic swing gates with your own hands, you need to decide on how to install the engine. The cylindrical electric motor housing is, as standard, fixed inside the pipe by means of clamping screws. If it was not possible to pick up a motor of the required size for an automatic device, then it will be necessary to weld a piece of pipe, metal corner or steel strip to the rear end of the unit. This will allow the custom engine to be strengthened in any way.
Electric motor installation
Automation for swing gates with outward or inward opening at the final stage involves the installation of a motor, the shaft of which is connected to a pin using a part such as a coupling. It can be purchased as an accessory for the engine. This part can be made by hand from 2 small tubes that are nested inside each other.
Next, you need to lubricate the stud a second time, securing the motor to the site. The length of the actuator is reduced to the required opening position. The entire surface of the inner tube is lubricated with lithol, and the drive folds completely.
If, before installing the automation, it was decided to strengthen the engine inside the pipe, then the unit can be deepened into it by 5–6 cm. In this case, another plug is used, prepared similarly to the first one. In the lower part of the pipe, pre-make a hole through which it is necessary to pass the power cable of the electric motor. This will prevent water from leaking into the interior. You can make a hole in the plug after installing the gland entry, which will be appropriate in the first case.
If a motor is installed on the swing gate, then it will be necessary to strengthen the fork tip to the site with it by welding. You must first make sure that the entire structure is rigid. To protect the motor installed on an electrically driven door, the motor is equipped with a special cover. After that, the actuators are installed in place. This ensures the fixation of the plugs on the swing gates with the help of fasteners.
Execution of the wiring diagram
To control an electric motor installed on a gate with automatic equipment, a reversible circuit is provided. The presence of a special limiting strip on the swing gates is taken into account. This assumes the presence of a mechanism for opening the gate outward or inward.
There are several types of opening the swing gate mechanism.
The process of opening the sash begins with its movement without a bar, but the closing of the sash occurs last. Different methods are used to implement this order. More reliable is the presence of a relay with a turn-on delay.
The contacts must be controlled at 24V. The positive wire of the power supply passes through the break contacts, which are referred to as the stop buttons. Then the cable is connected to the break contacts related to the control buttons. Further, power should be supplied to the open contacts of each opposite button. From them, voltage is supplied to 2 pairs of starters.
The gate opening mechanism works with a time delay, which ensures the sequence of the leaf movement. The engine stops automatically when the end passes are triggered. Such a drive can replace a lever drive, so it will be possible to open swing gates using it while sitting in a car.