If the system individual heating calculated correctly, no regulators are needed: a stable temperature will be maintained in each room. But here in high-rise buildings after total heating alterations, regulators can become very useful.
It is necessary to regulate the heat transfer of heating radiators for several reasons. First: it allows you to save on heating. In apartments multi-storey buildings bills for payment will be reduced only if a common house heat meter is installed. In private homes, with an automated boiler that maintains a stable temperature on its own, you are unlikely to need regulators for radiators. Unless you have old equipment. Then the savings will be quite significant.
The second reason why they put regulators on heating radiators is the ability to maintain that temperature regime in the room you want. You need +17 o C in one room, and +26 o C in another, set the appropriate values on the thermal head or closed the valve, and you have so warm air as much as you want. And it doesn’t matter if you have batteries in the apartment, and the coolant is supplied centrally, or the heating is individual. And it absolutely does not matter what the boiler is in the system. Radiator regulators have nothing to do with boilers. They work on their own
How to regulate heating batteries
To understand how the temperature is adjusted, let's remember how a heating radiator works. It is a maze of pipes with different kind ribs to increase heat transfer. The radiator inlet hot water, passing through the labyrinth, it heats the metal. This, in turn, heats up the surrounding air. Due to the fact that on modern radiators the fins have a special shape that improves air movement (convection), hot air spreads very quickly. With active heating, a noticeable flow of heat comes from the radiators.
This battery is very hot. In this case, the regulator must be installed
From all this it follows that by changing the amount of coolant passing through the battery, you can change the temperature in the room (within certain limits). This is what the corresponding fittings do - control valves and thermostats.
We must say right away that no regulators can increase heat transfer. They just lower it. If the room is hot - put it on, if it's cold - this is not your option.
How effectively the temperature of the batteries changes depends, firstly, on how the system is designed, whether there is a power reserve for heating devices, and secondly, on how correctly the regulators themselves are selected and installed. A significant role is played by the inertia of the system as a whole, and the heating devices themselves. For example, aluminum heats up and cools down quickly, while cast iron, which has a large mass, changes temperature very slowly. So with cast iron there is no point in changing something: it is too long to wait for the result.
Options for connecting and installing control valves. But in order to be able to repair the radiator without stopping the system, you need to install a ball valve before the regulator (click on the picture to enlarge it)
How to increase the heat dissipation of batteries
Whether it is possible to increase the heat transfer of the radiator depends on how it was calculated, and whether there is a power reserve. If the radiator just can't deliver more heat, then any means of adjustment will not help here. But you can try to change the situation in one of the following ways:
The main disadvantage of regulated systems is that they require a certain power reserve for all devices. And these are additional funds: each section costs money. But it's not a pity to pay for comfort. If your room is hot, life is not a joy, just like in a cold one. And control valves are a universal way out.
Devices that can change the amount of flow through heater(radiator, register) coolant, a lot. There are quite inexpensive options, there are those with a decent cost. Available with manual adjustment, automatic or electronic. Let's start with the cheapest.
Valves or faucets
These are the least expensive, but, unfortunately, the most inefficient radiator adjustment devices.
Ball Valves
Often at the entrance to the battery they put Ball Valves and with their help regulate the flow of the coolant. But this equipment has a different purpose: it is a shut-off valve. They are needed in the system, but to completely turn off the coolant flow. In the event, for example, if the heater is leaking. Then the ball valves standing at the inlet and outlet of the heating radiator will allow it to be repaired or replaced without stopping the system and draining the coolant.
Ball valves are not intended for adjustment. They have only two operating states: fully "closed" and cavity "open". All intermediate positions harm.
Ball valves are shut-off valves and are not suitable for adjusting the radiator
What harm? Inside this tap is a ball with a hole (hence the name - ball). In regular positions (open or closed), nothing threatens him. But in other cases, the solid particles contained in the coolant (there are especially many of them in centralized heating systems) gradually grind off and break off pieces. As a result, the valve becomes leaky. Then, even if it is in the “closed” position, the coolant continues to flow into the radiator. And it’s good if an accident doesn’t happen at this time, and you don’t need to turn off the water. But if, suddenly, this happens, repairs cannot be avoided. At the very least, you need to change flooring, and what will need to be repaired in the lower room depends on how quickly the utility workers (or you, if you have own house). Yes, the ball valve can work in emergency mode for some time, but it still breaks. And sooner rather than later.
For those who still decide to regulate the radiator in this way, it should be borne in mind that they must also be installed correctly, otherwise “pleasant” conversations with the management company cannot be avoided. Since this method is more often resorted to in apartment buildings, we will talk about how to connect them with vertical wiring. Most often, the wiring is single-pipe vertical. This is when a pipe enters the room through the ceiling. It has a radiator connected to it. A pipe exits from the second radiator inlet and goes through the floor to the lower room.
Here you need to put the taps correctly: the mandatory installation of a bypass - a bypass pipe. It is needed so that when the flow to the radiators in the apartment is closed (the tap is completely or partially closed), water circulates in the common house system.
Sometimes ball valve is placed on the bypass. By changing the amount of coolant passing through it, it is also possible to change the heat transfer of the heating battery. In this case, for greater reliability of the system and the ability to turn off the taps, there should be three: two cut-off valves on the radiators, which will operate in normal modes, and the third, which will be regulating. But there is one pitfall here: sometimes you can forget what position the cranes are in, or the children will play. Result: the entire riser is blocked, cold in the apartments, unpleasant conversations with neighbors and the manager.
So that it is better not to use ball valves for adjusting heating batteries. There are other devices designed specifically to change the amount of coolant flowing through the battery.
needle valve
This device in the heating system is usually installed in front of the pressure gauge. In other places, it does more harm than good. It's all about the structure. The device itself effectively and smoothly changes the flow of the coolant, gradually blocking it.
But the thing is that due to the design features, the width of the passage for the coolant in them is less than two times. For example, you have installed inch pipes, and they have a needle valve of the same size. But its capacity is half as much: the saddle is only ½ inch. That is, each needle valve installed in the system reduces throughput systems. Several consecutive installed devices, for example, in a one-pipe system, they will lead to the fact that the last heaters will either not heat up at all, or will be barely warm. Therefore, the often recommended one-pipe scheme with needle valves in practice leads to the fact that most of the radiators either do not heat at all, or heat very weakly.
- removing the needle valve;
- doubling the number of sections,
- by installing a device that has twice the large couplings (a two-inch valve will need to be installed on inch pipes, which is unlikely to suit anyone).
Radiator control valves
Especially for manual adjustment of radiators intended radiator valves (taps). They are available with angled or direct connection. The principle of operation of this manual temperature controller is as follows. By turning the valve, you lower or raise the shut-off cone. In the closed position, the cone completely shuts off the flow. Moving up / down, it blocks the flow of coolant to a greater or lesser extent. Because of this principle of operation, these devices are also called "mechanical temperature controller". It is installed on threaded radiators, it is connected to pipes using fittings, more often crimp fittings, but there are different types that are compatible with different types pipes.
What is a radiator valve good for? It is reliable, it is not afraid of blockages and small abrasive particles that are in the coolant. It concerns quality products, whose valve cone is made of metal and carefully processed. Their prices are not very high, which is important with a large heating system. What is the downside? Each time you have to change the position manually, which is why maintaining a stable temperature is problematic. Some people are satisfied with it, some are not. For those who want a constant or strictly set temperature, more suitable
Automatic adjustment
Automatic maintenance of the temperature in the room is good because once you put the regulator knob in the right position, you will get rid of the need to twist and change something for a long time. The temperature of the heating radiators is constantly and continuously adjusted. The disadvantage of such systems is a significant cost, and the more functionality, the more expensive the device will cost. There are some more features and subtleties, but about them below.
Adjustment of radiators with thermostats
For maintaining a constant set temperature in the room (room) use thermostats or thermostats for heating radiators. Sometimes this device may be called "thermostatic valve", "thermostatic valve", etc. There are many names, but one device is meant. To make it clearer, it is necessary to explain that the thermal valve and thermal valve are the lower part of the device, and the thermal head and thermoelement are the upper ones. And the whole device is a radiator thermostat or thermostat.
Most of these devices do not require any power source. The exception is models with a digital screen: batteries are inserted into the thermostatic head. But the period of their replacement is quite long, the consumed currents are small.
Structurally, the radiator thermostat consists of two parts:
- thermostatic valve (sometimes called "body", "thermal valve", "thermal valve");
- thermostatic head (also called "thermostatic element", "thermoelement", "thermal head").
The valve itself (body) is made of metal, usually brass or bronze. Its design is similar to that of a manual valve. Most firms lower part the radiator thermostat is made unified. That is, heads of any type and any manufacturer can be installed on one housing. Let's clarify: on one thermal valve, you can put a thermoelement of both manual, and mechanical, and automatic type. It is very comfortable. If you want to change the adjustment method, you do not need to buy the whole device. They put another thermostatic element and that's it.
In automatic regulators, the principle of influencing the shut-off valve is different. In a manual regulator, its position is changed by turning the handle; in automatic models, there is usually a bellows that presses on a spring-loaded mechanism. In electronics, everything is controlled by the processor.
The bellows is the main part of the thermal head (thermoelement). It is a small sealed cylinder that contains a liquid or gas. Both liquid and gas have the same common property: their volume strongly depends on temperature. When heated, they significantly increase their volume, stretching the cylinder-bellows. It presses on the spring, blocking the coolant flow more strongly. As it cools, the volume of the gas / liquid decreases, the spring rises, the coolant flow increases, and heating occurs again. Such a mechanism, depending on the calibration, allows you to maintain the set temperature with an accuracy of 1 o C.
How the thermostat works, see the video.
The radiator thermostat can be:
- with manual temperature control;
- with automatic;
- with built-in temperature sensor;
- with remote (wired).
There are also special models for one-pipe and two-pipe systems, housings made of different metals.
Use of three-way valves
A three-way valve to regulate the temperature of the batteries is rarely used. He has a slightly different mission. But in principle, it is possible.
A three-way valve is installed at the junction of the bypass and the supply pipe leading to the radiator. To stabilize the temperature of the coolant, it must be equipped with a thermostatic head (of the type described above). If the temperature near the three-way valve head rises above the set value, the coolant flow to the radiator is blocked. It all rushes through the bypass. After cooling, the valve works in the opposite direction, and the radiator heats up again. This connection method is implemented for, and more often with vertical wiring.
Results
Adjustment of heating batteries is possible using different devices, but this must be done correctly with the help of special control valves. These are manual regulators (faucets) and automated - thermostats, in some cases it is possible to use a three-way valve with a thermal head.
In which case what to use? In multi-storey apartments with central heating, a three-way valve and control valves are preferable. And all because the gap in the thermostats for the coolant is not very wide, and if there are foreign particles in the coolant, it quickly becomes clogged. Therefore, they are recommended for use in individual heating systems.
If the apartment really wants automatic adjustment of the radiator, you can put a filter before the thermostat. Most it will retain impurities, but it will have to be washed regularly. When you feel that the radiator has become too cold, check the filter.
In private houses with battery regulation, everything is simple: what suits you best, then put it.
Why do we need thermostats for heating radiators? How do they work? How to set the heater temperature controller correctly? In the article, we, together with the reader, will find answers to these and some other questions.
One of the first thermostats was a three-way valve on the supply line to the battery in Khrushchev.
Why adjustment is needed
- Why do you need a thermostat for a heating radiator?
The answer is not as obvious as it might seem.
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Yes, of course, most often it is used to reduce the air temperature in the room at an excessively high temperature of the coolant.
Adjustment is necessary in the following cases:
- If a thermal power the device is selected with a margin in case of extremely severe cold weather;
- If there is a thaw outside;
- In addition, the regulator for the heating radiator is useful for testing the temperature of the heating main. They are held annually shortly before graduation. heating season and are necessary to detect defects in heating mains and heating circuits, making them sensitive to extremely high temperatures of the winter temperature chart.
During the test, the hot water supply is turned off, and central heating continues to operate normally. It is with these tests that a significant part of the complaints about the evil dwellers is connected: "it's warm outside, but the batteries are heating with might and main."
Heating system
Adjusting the temperature of individual devices is also useful for autonomous heating systems. It would seem that it is easier to maneuver the heating boiler mode: after all, with an increase in street temperature, the need for heat at home decreases. But no: in some cases it is more convenient to set the operating mode of a very specific battery.
The most obvious scenario is to limit the temperature in unused rooms. A complete shutdown of the heating will lead to freezing of the corners and window slopes, which will inevitably be followed by the appearance of a fungus, but a decrease in the temperature in the room to minimum values(16-18 degrees) will avoid possible troubles.
Heating radiators with a temperature controller can significantly reduce heat consumption and, accordingly, heating costs. Savings reach 30-40%.
In addition, thermostats are needed for balancing dead-end heating systems. A small lyrical digression is needed here.
Two-pipe heating systems (with separate supply and return bottlings) are divided into dead-end (in which the coolant changes direction by 180 degrees when moving from the supply to the return thread) and associated (in which it continues to move in the same direction).
A dead-end circuit is necessary if the circuit breaks panoramic window or high doorway.
A passing circuit, or Tichelman's loop, is several parallel small circuits of the same length. Thanks to this feature, all heating devices connected to it have approximately the same temperature.
In a dead-end scheme, small contours have different lengths, due to which the owner of the house faces a couple of unpleasant problems:
- The radiators closest to the boiler are always heated noticeably stronger than the far ones;
- AT very coldy it is possible to stop circulation through distant heaters with their subsequent defrosting. There were precedents in my memory, and more than once.
To solve these problems, balancing the heating system is used - an artificial limitation of the patency of the connections closest to the boiler batteries. In this case, the coolant is distributed more evenly over the sections of the circuit, the temperature of the radiators is equalized, and stopping the circulation through distant devices is made impossible.
Balancing is an artificial restriction of the patency of the connections of the heaters closest to the heat source.
Shut-off and control valves
Varieties
- What shut-off and control valves can regulate the temperature of the heating battery?
For this purpose, the following are routinely used:
- Throttles;
- Thermal heads.
The needle throttle is a screw valve with a conical metal valve. The adjustment is extremely simple: the stem with the valve is screwed in and out, while limiting the flow of coolant through the hole in the seat.
The thermal head is an automatic regulator that allows you to focus not on the patency of the eyeliner, but on the air temperature in the room.
The principle of operation of low-cost thermostatic heads uses the expansion solids, gases and liquids when heated:
- When the target temperature is reached, the expanding working body of the thermal head pushes the valve to the seat and shuts off the coolant flow;
- When cooling, the valve is moved away from the seat by a return spring, and the heater begins to heat up.
Rough adjustment of the response temperature is carried out by a conventional screw mechanism that moves the valve closer or further away from the seat.
In addition, on sale you can find electronic thermal heads with a temperature sensor and a servo powered by a galvanic cell. They are easy to recognize by the screen, which shows the set or current room temperature.
Prices
- How much do chokes and thermal heads cost?
Here are the approximate prices at the end of 2016 for Valtec products:
Alternatives
- How else can you regulate the patency of the piping to the heater or the heating circuit?
To adjust the patency of individual sections of the circuit in the heating system, the following can be used abnormally:
- Screw valves;
- Ball and plug valves;
- Gate valves.
I emphasize again: the use of valves as chokes for all of the listed elements of valves is an abnormal mode.
What does it threaten?
- At a screw valve, a half-open valve will continuously move in the turbulent flow of the coolant, since it is movably fixed on the stem. As a rule, throttling with a screw valve ends with a valve separation, after which the valve stops closing or opening;
- According to the assurances of the manufacturers, in a ball valve, the half-open position of the valve usually leads to wear of the PTFE or Teflon rings that ensure tightness in the closed position - with quite predictable consequences. Less often, scale between the shutter and the body simply prevents the valve from closing;
However, the ball valves I use to limit the flow of water on the water supply have been operating in the half-open position for the past four years and still do not show signs of malfunction.
- For semi-closed valves, the cheeks fall, completely blocking the passage for the coolant.
To prevent the cheeks in the half-open position of the valve from falling, first completely close it, and then slowly unscrew the stem with continuous monitoring of the pressure drop on the pressure gauge.
Mounting
- Is it difficult to install a thermostat on a heating radiator with your own hands?
It is no more difficult than mounting a conventional valve on threaded connections. The external thread on the eyeliner (corner, tee, etc.) is wound with sanitary flax or polymer sealant thread (for example, Tangit Unilok), after which the thermostat is screwed onto it with an open-end, adjustable or pipe wrench.
Tangit Unilok is an ideal winder for heating threads.
A few nuances:
- Do not use FUM tape for winding metal threads. The instruction is related to the fact that it leaks with minimal thread reverse;
- Apply a little of any quick-drying cloth to the threaded sanitary flax. organic solvent. The paint, having soaked the organic fiber, will prevent it from rotting when the heating is turned off and burn out when it is turned on;
- Collecting threaded connection, do not use excessive force. Brass valve bodies are not durable and crack easily;
- For aluminum or bimetallic battery it is better to buy an angle thermostat with an American (swivel nut with a rubber or silicone gasket). The American will significantly simplify and speed up the dismantling of the radiator during repairs in the room or if it malfunctions;
In the photo - an angle control valve with an American.
- When mounting the thermal head, position it away from the ascending air flow from the radiator and supply lines. Heating by an external heat source will reduce the accuracy of room temperature control.
Conclusion
As you can see, thermostats are easy to install and are quite capable of providing significant savings to your money. The video in this article will help you learn more about them. I look forward to your comments. Good luck, comrades!
Thermoregulatory equipment allows a person to influence the microclimate in the house, setting an acceptable range of day and night air temperatures. In addition to maintaining the temperature balance in a residential area, thermostats for heating allow you to optimize the cost of paying for utility bills. Many tenants apartment buildings in winter time forced to constantly keep the windows open, trying to escape from the heat-breathing batteries. This situation can be put up with if the heating bills are carried out according to the standards. If heat meters are installed in an apartment or house, then it becomes completely unprofitable for the owners to endure inconvenience, while “heating” the street.
After watching the video, you will learn how to install the heating temperature controller and configure it.
Most of all, the installation of thermostats is needed in rooms in which temperatures fluctuate significantly during the day (kitchens and rooms oriented to the sunny side). It is important to regulate the temperature level in the bedrooms, since full sleep is possible only at 18-19 ° C.
Where are thermostats usually installed?
The best place to place the thermostat is the heater itself (radiator), provided that it is not covered by curtains, decorative grilles or other interior items. Violation of this rule leads to an inadequate assessment of the temperature level in the room.
This rule can be circumvented by using a thermostatic element with a remote sensor located at a distance of 2 to 8 meters from the valve. In this case, the temperature level control will be carried out at the location of the sensor. Also, temperature controllers for radiators can be installed on horizontal section pipeline near the entry point into the heater.
When the manual thermostat completely shuts off the flow of coolant into the radiator, its circulation in the system will continue through the jumper pipe
If the installation of the equipment is carried out in accordance with the instructions and compliance with all building codes and regulations, then the temperature can be controlled in the range from 5 ° C to 30 ° C in increments of one degree. In some models, this range may be different, so you should check this information before buying.
The order of installation of the thermostat
To install a thermostat for heating radiators, first turn off the supply riser. Then drain the water from the heating system and proceed to installation work which execute in the following order:
- cut off horizontal pipe connections at a certain distance from the radiator;
- disconnect the cut pipeline, as well as the tap, if it was installed earlier, from the radiator;
- carry out the disconnection of the shanks together with the nuts from the shut-off valve and the thermostatic valve; they are wrapped in battery plugs;
- then piping is assembled and installed at the selected location;
- then the installed piping is connected to horizontally located supply pipes coming from the riser.
Heating systems are divided into two types: one-pipe and two-pipe. In a single-pipe heating system, when connecting a thermostat, it is necessary to change the radiator connection scheme by installing a jumper connecting the direct and return connections of the device.
This jumper pipe, otherwise called a bypass, allows the coolant to run when the heating battery is blocked by a thermostatic device. When implementing such a connection scheme, it is convenient to dismantle the device by first closing the valves shown in the figure under numbers 3 and 4.
Connection diagram for a heating radiator thermostat in a one-pipe system
Wiring diagram of the radiator temperature controller in two-pipe system heating
Legend for schemes:
- supply riser of the heating system;
- Radiator;
- thermostat (automatic or manual);
- bottom valve;
- manual or automatic air vent;
- jumper;
- reverse riser;
- plug.
In a two-pipe heating system, the regulation of the flow of coolant into the radiator can be carried out using the temperature controller of the radiator of the heating batteries installed on the upper supply.
How to set the temperature controller correctly?
For the correct setting of the thermostat, it is necessary to minimize heat leakage from the room by closing windows and doors. A room thermometer is placed where the temperature should be constant. Then the valve is fully opened by turning the thermostat head to the left until it stops. In this position, the radiator provides the maximum level of heat transfer, so the air in the room will begin to heat up.
After the thermometer readings increase by 5-6°C compared to the initial value, the valve is closed. Why turn the head to the right as far as it will go. At the same time, the air temperature in the room will gradually decrease. When the temperature reaches the desired value, proceed to the slow opening of the valve.
As soon as the sound of water in the thermostat is heard and a sharp heating of the valve body is felt, the rotation of the head is stopped, remembering its position. This completes the thermostat setting.
For the installation of thermostats for heating radiators, it is best to invite professional plumbers
It is better to entrust the choice and installation of temperature controllers to specialists who will connect the equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. A properly installed thermostat will ensure a comfortable temperature level in the room and help save heat, which will positively affect the family budget.
First of all, let's talk about when thermostats are needed for radiators. They are needed in those rooms where you need to reduce the temperature. Most often, these are the upper apartments of high-rise buildings with an upper coolant supply and vertical wiring. By installing the thermostat on the battery, setting the desired temperature, you will be guaranteed to have the set parameter with an error of one degree.
When thermostats won't help If you need to increase the heat transfer of the heater. They can only lower, but not raise. What radiators do thermostats work well with? With everything except cast iron: they have a very large thermal inertia and such a device is practically useless. Now more about the types and features of their installation and operation.
Structure and principle of operation
Structurally, devices for regulating the temperature of batteries consist of:
- valve (valve);
- thermostatic element.
A thermal valve (also called a thermal valve) is, in fact, an ordinary valve. The same metal body with a bore, seat and cone. The cone is locking mechanism. Lowering and rising, it changes the amount of flowing coolant. Everything is as usual, only the way this locking mechanism is set in motion is unusual.
The locking cone drives the thermal head (thermostatic element, thermoelement). Its base is a small hermetic and elastic cylinder filled with a thermal agent. The cylinder used in thermostats is called a "bellows". A thermal agent is a gas or liquid, but not any, but special ones: their volume must depend strongly on temperature. There are also bellows with solid thermal agents, but their response time to temperature changes is at least half an hour. So they are rarely used.
Here's how this device works: when heated, the substance expands, stretching the cylinder. He presses on the piston, which moves the shut-off cone of the thermal valve. The cone blocks the coolant flow, the substance in the bellows cools down. As it cools, it shrinks, and the cylinder shrinks in size. The spring-loaded mechanism raises the shut-off cone, the coolant enters the radiator again and the device head heats up. In this way, the temperature in the room can be maintained with an accuracy of one degree.
But different devices give different accuracy. The thing is that the expansion and contraction of the bellows does not occur abruptly, but gradually. Therefore, the coolant is cut off and opens not abruptly, but smoothly. Because of this, the position completely closed or completely open is quite rare. What does it say? That the room will be more comfortable.
The magnitude of the error is characterized by such an indicator as the "gestesis" of the thermal head. The lower this indicator, the faster the device reacts to temperature changes. But not always high accuracy needed, and the prices differ decently.
But when installing the regulator on the radiator, be prepared for the fact that it will never be warmed up evenly and completely. Some part will always be cold. To make sure that everything is normal in it, it is not clogged and not airy, remove the thermal head. The entire surface will become evenly warm after a while.
Type of thermostatic elements
The thermal head for the radiator is the upper, replaceable part of the device. It can be of several types:
- manual;
- mechanical;
- electronic.
Almost all major manufacturers make the valve (housing) compatible with any type of thermocouple. The principle of operation described above is a thermostat equipped with a mechanical head. This equipment is considered basic and there are a lot of modifications in this category. They differ in features and price.
For pricing information: European manufacturers mechanical thermal heads sell from 15 euros to 25 euros, there are anti-vandal models, they cost from 40 euros. There are devices with a remote sensor. They are set if the conditions do not allow to regulate the temperature on the radiator (for example, it is installed behind a cabinet, closed in a niche, etc.). Here great importance plays the length of the capillary tube, which connects the sensor with the thermostat. Prices in this segment are from 40-50 euros.
This is what it looks like hand device for adjusting the temperature of radiators in the section
A manual thermostat is the same control valve for a radiator. And the principle of operation is the same: turn the knob, change the amount of passing coolant. The only difference is that if you wish, you can simply remove this thermocouple and install a mechanical or electronic one. The case does not need to be unscrewed or changed. They are universal. Heads for manual adjustment have a low price - from 4 euros.
Electronic thermal heads are the most expensive options, they are also the most massive: there is room for two batteries in the case. They differ in that they have more options. In addition to maintaining a stable temperature throughout the entire time, you can program the temperature by day of the week or by time of day. For example, after 9 am, all household members disperse, and appear only after 6 pm. It turns out that there is no need to spend money on maintaining high temperature during the daytime. Electronic thermoelements and make it possible on all days, except weekends, to set more than low temperature. Set at least 6-8 ° C, and in the evening you can again heat the air to a comfortable 20 degrees. With these devices, it is possible to save on heating without compromising comfort levels.
Thermal heads are also divided according to the type of temperature agent (substance that is in the bellows). They are:
- liquid;
- gas.
The gas thermostat is considered less inertial, they say it responds faster to temperature changes. But the difference is not so big as to give preference to a specific species. The main thing is the quality, not the type of temperature agent. Liquid thermostats are no less high quality. Moreover, they are easier to manufacture, therefore they are produced in a wider range.
When choosing a thermocouple, you need to pay attention to the temperature range that the device can support. Usually it is from +6 o C to +26-28 o C. But there may be differences. The wider the range, the higher the price. Dimensions and design, connection method also change.
Thermal valve for a heating radiator: classification
Now let's talk about the bottom of the thermostat - the valve (valve). First of all, you need to know that the industry produces control devices for different systems. And you only need to use devices for your system.
Devices for have at least twice the hydraulic resistance than for single-pipe ones. This is done on purpose, since balancing in this case occurs due to a pressure drop across the valves. Therefore, devices with a small flow area are installed. By putting such a device in, you will surely freeze. Therefore, be careful.
Sometimes modifications for single-pipe systems are positioned as devices for systems with. They have reduced hydraulic resistance, and they can be used in single tubes.
In a one-pipe system, install thermostats with a flow capacity of at least 3 (Kvs=3 and above).
According to the method of pipe connection, radiator temperature controllers are angular or straight (through). There are also axial models. Select in this case depending on the type of connection of the heater. If the pipe fits from the side, it is more convenient to install a straight valve, if from below - one of the corner ones.
Thermal valves also differ in the material from which they are made. Use metals that have good resistance to corrosion. Some of them have additional protective covering(usually nickel plating or chrome plating). So, thermostatic valves are made from:
- bronze, nickel-plated and chrome-plated;
- brass, nickel-plated;
- stainless steel.
It is clear that stainless steel is better, but such valves cost a lot, and are rarely found on sale.
Installing a thermostat on a radiator
Thermostats on the radiator are installed mainly on the supply before entering the heater. Each of the valves passes the coolant in one direction. Where the flow should go is shown by an arrow on the body. The coolant should flow exactly there. If connected incorrectly, the device will not work. Another question is that you can put a thermostat, both at the inlet and at the outlet, but observing the direction of flow. And in both cases they work the same way.
Options for connecting and installing control valves. But in order to be able to repair the radiator without stopping the system, you need to install a ball valve before the regulator (click on the picture to enlarge it)
It is worth paying attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the installation height. Most models should be at a height of 40-60 cm from the floor. They are calibrated for temperatures at this level. But not everywhere the feed is top. Radiators often have bottom connection. Then, in addition to the type of system (one-pipe or two-pipe), select the height of the installation. If such a model is not found, you can set a lower temperature on the thermal head. If you set the recommended one, it will be too hot, because below, in the floor area, the air is cooler, and the model is set to maintain the temperature measured at the height of the upper edge of the radiator. The second option is to configure the device yourself. The procedure is usually described in the passport, and we will describe the most common sequence of actions below. And the third option is to put a thermostat with a remote sensor on the battery. Then it doesn't matter at what height the thermal head stands. The main thing is the location of the sensor. But these models are much more expensive. If this is critical, it is better to adjust the regulator.
Please note that the thermostatic head must be turned horizontally(look into the room). If it is welded up, then it is constantly in the stream of hot air that comes from the pipe. Therefore, the substance in the bellows is almost always heated, and the radiator is turned off. The result - the room is cold.
For the device to work correctly, you need to install it "head" into the room
The situation is slightly better if the battery is installed in a niche, closed or curtained. The thermoelement is also "hot" but not so much. Here you can go in two ways: either set a high temperature on the regulator, or use a remote sensor. Models with remote thermal controllers are, of course, not cheap, but you can choose the point of control at your discretion.
Another thing to remember: when installing in a one-pipe system, a bypass is required. And unregulated. Then, when the supply to the radiator is closed, the riser will not be blocked, and you will not receive “hello” from your neighbors.
Thermal valves also differ in the type of connection: they are with union nuts, there are with compression ones. Accordingly, they are joined with certain types of pipes. Usually, the specification or product description indicates the type of connection, as well as with which pipes it can be used.
Regulator setting
In order for the device to work correctly and support desired temperature, it is necessary to pre-configure. With the heating in the room, close the doors, install a thermometer where you think it is right to control the temperature. Now let's start setting up:
- Open the coolant flow completely. This is done by turning the thermal head all the way to the left.
- The temperature will start to rise. When it becomes 5-6 o C higher, we proceed to the next item.
- Shut off the coolant flow by turning the thermostat head to the right as far as it will go. The room will gradually become cooler.
- When the desired temperature is reached, start gradually opening the valve. As soon as you hear that the coolant is noisy, and the case has become warm to the touch, stop rotating. This will be the position of the thermal head, which will maintain a comfortable temperature for you. Usually there are marks on the cap - numbers - and you can navigate by them.
Adjusting the thermostat is a simple procedure, but it is she who allows you to calibrate it to your requirements. For the most part the sequence is standard, but sometimes it may differ. Then the entire sequence of actions should be described in the passport for the product. Some firms have even made videos showing how to install and adjust their products.
Results
Temperature controllers for heating batteries can be with three types of heads: manual, mechanical and electronic. Any species can only lower the temperature, it cannot raise it.
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As you know, in order to heat any room with high quality, it is necessary to correctly adjust the temperature indicators so that the heating matches optimally. comfortable conditions and provided a favorable microclimate in the dwelling. Therefore, it is necessary to consider in more detail the features of such a device as a temperature controller for a heating radiator, which is designed to perform all these functions. In addition, you should figure out how to regulate the temperature of the radiator in various buildings, including private and apartment buildings.
The need to install thermostats
Such mechanisms are used for the following purposes:- saving heat produced by heating;
- maintaining a comfortable temperature in the home.
It is very important to remember that during installation it is extremely necessary to have a special jumper located directly in front of the heating device. If it does not exist, then the coolant flow cannot be regulated through the radiator, since this will have to be done through a common riser.
Speaking of savings, this factor is relevant for those owners whose living quarters are equipped with an autonomous heating system, as well as for housing and communal services that use metering devices to pay for heat coming from its producers.
Installation of temperature controllers in apartment buildings
To install a temperature controller for a radiator of heating batteries in an apartment building, you need to figure out what constitutes heat metering in such a design.The supply and return pipelines are equipped with special retaining washers, before and after each of which there are pressure regulating sensors. Due to the fact that the diameter of these sensors is known, it becomes possible to calculate the flow rate of the coolant circulating through the sensors. As a result, the difference obtained between the water flow in the supply and return pipelines will reflect the amount of water used by the residents.
Temperature sensors are designed to control both areas. Therefore, knowing how much heat is consumed and what its temperature is, you can easily calculate the amount of heat that remains in the room.
In order to regulate the operation of heating was easier, you need to constantly monitor the state of the temperature.
This can be done in one of two ways:
- Mounting shut-off valve . Such a device is designed to partially shut off the pipeline system if the return temperature is higher than the set one. It is a conventional solenoid valve. This option will be suitable for those houses where the heating system is relatively simple and does not have a large volume of coolant.
- Three way type valve device. This device also allows you to adjust the current flow rate of the coolant, but it functions a little differently: in the event that the water temperature exceeds the norm, then it is sent through an open valve into the supply pipeline to more. By mixing with cooled water, the overall temperature will decrease, while the required circulation rate will be maintained.
Installation of mechanical regulators is not particularly difficult. To install such a device, you only need to connect it to the flange in the elevator assembly. It is also important that the price of such devices is much lower compared to electronic mechanisms.
Installation of temperature controllers in private homes
As a rule, an automatic heating temperature controller is an integral part of a heating boiler in autonomous system heating. Such a sensor can be mobile, that is, it can be carried, and is also capable of measuring the temperature in the room.in boilers electric type electronic sensors are used that are directly connected to the installed heating elements (thermal electric heating elements) or to the voltage that occurs on the electrodes or on the boiler winding.
Boiler systems operating both with gas and with the use of pyrolysis technology are often equipped with mechanical regulators, the main advantage of which is independence in terms of energy. But this option, of course, does not imply the use of remote temperature sensors. See also: "".
Temperature sensors for radiators
Sometimes one temperature sensor carries several heating radiators. First of all, the installation scheme affects this. But much more often it is customary to mount the regulator on each heating device separately.
Many owners install a system familiar to many, called "Leningrad", the principle of which is to use one pipe encircling a house or one floor, which has a rather impressive diameter, and radiators or convectors are built in parallel with it.
It is worth noting that in order to adjust the heating temperature, you can use not only standard devices.
Common mechanisms of this type include:
- thermostatic head. It is an automatic sensor that controls the temperature of the coolant in the battery. The principle of its operation is as follows: during the heating process, liquid and gaseous substances expand (in more detail: ""). This, as a consequence, leads to the fact that the heated product squeezes out a special rod, thereby blocking the access of the coolant;
- devices called chokes are no less often used. They are special screw-type valves with which you can manually adjust the permeability of the coolant. Their cost is more affordable, and in addition, they can be used to control two-pipe heating systems;
- The least expensive and simplest mechanism to help regulate temperature is the traditional valve. Of course, in this case, you should only use modern models, and not outdated screw devices, since valves are very often torn off in old mechanisms, and there is also a risk of oil seals leaking. The situation is completely different with ball valves: even in the half-open position, they function reliably and efficiently over a long period of time.
In order for the device of temperature controllers to be as convenient as possible, many experts recommend that you first study various photos these devices and detailed videos on their correct connection.
An example of heating temperature controllers on video: