Portal about bathroom renovation. Useful tips

Step-by-step finishing of the steam room from the inside. DIY sauna interior decoration

Interior decoration is the most important stage in the design of any bathhouse, and the Finnish sauna is no exception. You can handle the finishing work yourself. You just need to understand the basics of the work ahead and carry out all the activities step by step in accordance with the most important recommendations.

First of all, you must choose materials that are optimal for the interior. Finnish sauna. In the steam room, the air temperature will rise to high values. The materials must be such that sauna visitors cannot get burned.

Finishing can be done using materials that heat up to a maximum of 50-60 degrees. Only wood and ceramic tiles meet this requirement. The walls near the stove and the stove unit itself are lined using various natural materials.

The use of paints and varnishes for finishing a Finnish sauna is strictly prohibited.

Wood must be treated with special water-repellent compounds that can prevent excessive moisture and rotting of the material. Such hydrophobic compounds do not change the color and texture of wood and are completely safe for human health.

Features of different types of wood

On modern market presented huge selection a wide variety of wood materials suitable for interior decoration of a bathhouse. Be sure to study the features and basic properties of the available options.

Abashi

This is an African oak. Among the main advantages of this type of wood, the following points should be highlighted:

  • high strength;
  • durability;
  • relatively light weight;
  • absence of knots and resinous discharge.

The oak finish does not burn the skin. The only one significant drawback material is its high price.

Cedar

Altai, Ussuri and, of course, Canadian breeds are suitable. Advantages:

  • resistance to excess humidity, high temperatures and temperature changes;
  • resistance to fungi, insects, rot;
  • excellent aesthetic qualities;
  • good aroma.

In alternative medicine, cedar takes pride of place and is considered a healing material that has a calming effect on the body and destroys pathogenic bacteria.

Linden

One of the most widely used finishing materials. Main advantages:

  • high strength and sufficient hardness with relatively low weight;
  • normal tolerance to high temperature and excess humidity;
  • pleasant aroma;
  • beautiful colour;
  • medicinal properties.

Alder

An excellent material with healing properties and a pleasant, non-burning surface. Alder does not emit resin, which is very important advantage in conditions of elevated temperature.

When heated, the material changes color slightly, and when cooled, the color returns to its previous state. This gives additional aesthetic pleasure during bath procedures.

Larch

Tree of the pine family. It has high strength and a pleasant-to-touch surface. When heated, it gives a pleasant aroma and releases many useful substances. Larch is characterized by a long service life even in conditions of high temperature and humidity.

Pine

If you want to use pine or spruce wood to decorate your Finnish sauna, pay attention only to wood made from northern regions. Spruces and pines from Finland stand out against the general background.

Wood has a high density and does not lose its original properties for a very long time. Pine normally tolerates contact with moisture, does not rot and is not affected by fungi if handled correctly. High-quality pine fills the steam room with a pleasant smell.

Aspen

Budget finishing material. The wood contains no resins. Aspen is easy to process. New material has a nice White color. However, after a while the aspen begins to darken. Also, the disadvantages of the material include the tendency to various tree diseases.

Birch

It has a strong and uniform structure. When exposed to high temperatures, it may become slightly deformed. To prevent this from happening, you need to buy high-quality dried material. It has a pleasant color and healing properties.

Sequence of finishing work

Interior finishing work in a Finnish sauna begins with the arrangement of the floor. Then the ceiling is decorated, and finally the walls.

If possible, wooden floors in the sauna should be avoided. Of course, with a plank floor, the interior of the steam room will look more organic and intact, however, drying such floors is very difficult. Usually, owners do not pay due attention to drying, as a result of which the steam room quickly begins to smell unpleasantly of rotten wood.

That is why it is best to use ceramic tiles for tiling the floor in a steam room.

First step. Level the base for the tiles. To do this, pour a regular concrete screed. At the same stage, arrange the foundation for the future stove. Select the dimensions of the base in accordance with the dimensions of your furnace unit. Make the height such that the foundation rises above the floor by about 10 cm.

Fill the screed so that the finished base for the tiles is tilted approximately 1% towards the location of the water collection pit.

Second step. Make a pit near the location of the stove. From the pit, lay it on the street drain pipe

with a diameter of 5 cm.

Third step. Lay the tiles on a dry base. It is best to use clinker tiles - they do not slip even when wet. Start tiling from the corner furthest from the entrance to the steam room. To fix the tiles, use a special heat-resistant adhesive. Apply the adhesive composition to the base using a comb spatula.

Optimal thickness

glue layer – 1.5-2 mm.

The joints between the tiles must be identical. To comply with this requirement, use special plastic crosses. Make seams up to 4 mm wide. Remove excess glue from seams immediately.

Fourth step.

After the glue has dried (usually it takes 1-3 days), start grouting the joints. A rubber spatula and special grout will help you with this. Choose the grout color at your discretion. After grouting, wipe the floor with a damp sponge.

Fifth step. Place wooden grates on the floor. The ceiling of a Finnish sauna is exposed to the most intense thermal effects. The best option for such premises is a suspended ceiling structure.

First step. Assemble the frame of the structure from boards measuring 15x5 cm.

Second step.

Attach plastic film to the frame boards. It will help you with this

construction stapler

If a stove that requires the installation of a chimney will be used in the bathhouse, install a special flange or a passage unit into the ceiling. These elements are sold in specialized stores of furnace equipment and accessories for steam rooms.

Wall cladding

Before you start decorating the walls, ensure that the steam room has sufficient ventilation. To do this, create through holes in the walls for air inflow and outlet.

Arrange the supply channel at a height of up to 50 cm from the floor, preferably not far from the stove. Place the hood on the opposite side to the supply duct at a distance of about 50 cm from the ceiling. Install on the holes ventilation grates, preferably wooden. After this, you can proceed directly to finishing the walls.

First step. Attach vertical support posts to the base. To fix these elements, use screws or nails. First, attach the corner posts, stretch a rope between the outer supports and, guided by it, align all the internal beams in increments corresponding to the width of the selected insulation.

Second step.

Place waterproofing film on the wall and attach it to the studs using a stapler.

Third step.

Place insulation on top of the film into the cells of the frame.

Fourth step. Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier material. Attach the vapor barrier to the studs using a stapler.

Fifth step.

Nail perpendicular slats over the posts.

Sixth step.

Attach the clapboard to the slats. Place the sheets vertically. To secure the sheathing, use clamps or other convenient fasteners. If you decide to fasten the lining in a horizontal position, do the work in the same order, but do not stuff the perpendicular slats, but attach the sheets directly to the racks. In such a situation, you will need to use racks that protrude 2-3 cm above the thermal insulation. Start the sheathing from the bottom. Cover the walls near the stove with non-flammable materials. The best option is natural minerals such as soapstone, jadeite, etc. These same minerals are perfect for finishing a stove.

Finishing work

To illuminate the sauna, use lamps that are resistant to high temperatures and excess humidity. The best option is fiber optic lighting.

At the end, all you have to do is lay out or install a ready-made stove unit and very soon you will be able to enjoy the warmth of a Finnish sauna you have finished yourself.

Good luck!

Video - DIY bathhouse interior decoration

Video - Exclusive steam room, top-level bath finishing

The steam room is the most important room of the bathhouse, because there is no bathhouse without a steam room. Traditionally around this small room designed for convenience additional spaces, of which there can be quite a lot: sink, shower, relaxation room, swimming pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to decorate the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will not just be external design walls The complex solves a huge set of problems:

  • walls are being prepared;
  • thermal insulation is applied;
  • thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
  • external finishing is carried out;
  • Design developments are brought to life, giving the interior completeness and aesthetics.

The decoration of the steam room is divided into several important stages and runs sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. Therefore, the first two important steps are:

  • choice safe insulation, which will be absolutely harmless due to temperature changes;
  • choice the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

Baths have been built from century to century; ancestors used natural materials to insulate them: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and maximally environmentally friendly; they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. To insulate a steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the manufacture of which waste is used as a raw material rocks. This material is produced both in rolls and in slabs. It is resistant to microorganisms, environmentally friendly, and durable.

Particularly popular basalt wool. It is simply irreplaceable for thermal insulation of those areas of the wall and ceiling that are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rots, can withstand the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to placing a steam room.

Basalt wool - technical characteristics of insulation

As for the most effective at one hundred percent humidity and maximum temperatures ah, foil films become.



Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Selection of finishing material

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but the most important are the performance qualities:

Attention! When producing a steam room, it is prohibited to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various types of wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances released artificial materials, can seriously harm your health.

The most suitable materials for finishing a steam room are considered to be lining, wooden boards, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used to construct a Russian-style bathhouse and a Finnish sauna. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwood, since they do not emit resin in the heat.



  1. Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength; such wood does not rot or crack.
  2. Lining made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give you relaxation.
  3. Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, and this species is very durable.
  4. The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Hardwoods dry out quickly and are therefore not threatened by fungus. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots, which can cause harm to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause serious burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If you have no other choice, you should definitely check pine boards for the presence of so-called “resin pockets”.

The finishing of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.



Prices for lining

Preparation for finishing work

TO installation work They begin after the electrical connection has been made, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.




For finishing you will need the following materials and tools:

  • building level,
  • fastening device,
  • hammer drill,
  • screwdriver,
  • hammer,
  • linings for sheathing,
  • clamps and screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, starting work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To prevent heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled using wooden spacers so that mounting rails did not subsequently end up at different heights.



Installation of sheathing and insulation

No.IllustrationA comment
1 To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which has been leveled in advance.
2
And only then the timber sheathing is attached. Use well-dried timber 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The installation distance should not be more than 1 m. It is excellent if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3 First, guides are mounted level on the wall. After this, according to the principle of racks, the outermost bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4 Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that forms between the floor plane and the stand allows for the “movement” of the wood during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is covered with a plinth).
After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach bars of a smaller cross-section to them.

This method of fastening is called floating; it will help avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire sheathing is adjusted to the level and secured, and pads are used if necessary.

For semicircular or patterned surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole beam, but parts of it.
5 Insulation is placed into the constructed frame.

Over time, mineral wool can slip or become deformed, so it is secured with polypropylene twine.

6 Then a second layer of vapor barrier is placed with the rough side to the insulation, and it is fixed with a stapler.
7 To prevent the tree from being subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing an antiseptic for wood

The purchased wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, infectious agents and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When purchasing, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Among the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, it can provide fire-retardant impregnation and protection of affected areas of wood. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for steam rooms and protects wood from rotting.


Neomid 200 – impregnation

100% natural flaxseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the best environmental choice.



Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Thanks to its high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensation, and prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stains, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

SATU SAUNAVAHA – wax

Prices for wood antiseptics

antiseptic for wood protection V33

Treating wood with an antiseptic

To work you will need:

  • short-haired brush or brush,
  • White Spirit,
  • warm water,
  • soap.

The surface to be finished must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will adhere more tenaciously.

The timber and lining must be impregnated from all sides, after which the wood must dry (48 hours). Before use, it is recommended to heat linseed oil TM “GreenTherm” in a steam bath to 40°-45° degrees C. You can apply it to the surface with a brush or rag.

Attention! The brush should only be short-haired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a long-haired brush is not suitable for the job.

Excess oil that the wood has not absorbed is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between applying 2-3 layers, technological breaks of at least 12 hours are observed. The ends of boards and timber are treated especially carefully. Drying requires 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20° C and a relative air humidity of no more than 65%. The presence of excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as desired, in accordance with the artistic design concept. But when decorating a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unequally, because at the top of the room the temperature is the highest, and at the bottom it is the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is carried out unevenly, the boards will very quickly “lead” to high humidity. The logical choice is to place the boards horizontally.

If the lining is fastened horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along its entire length, and bending deformation does not occur. Of course, different finishing elements, depending on their location, will be in completely different conditions, but this will not affect the general form sheathing.

Fastening the lining

Before starting work, you need to take measurements of the steam room and cut the lining to the required height.

The choice of fastening type depends on the room temperature.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps rather than nails. The finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so they can cause burns. The clamps are completely invisible, and the lining secured by them can be dismantled and installed several times.

The steam room is lined from the stove and goes around the perimeter of the room. The correct installation direction is from top to bottom.

The board is attached with the groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The lining boards are assembled “groove into tenon”, like a construction set.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will flow freely without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from rotting. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws; in this case, they can be easily dismantled and replaced without dismantling the entire sheathing structure. The trim is nailed onto the door opening using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the paneling and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the wood will begin to rot on the reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One of reasonable decisions– lay a row of tiles in the place where the walls meet the floor.

Video - Finishing the bath

Choosing tile or stone

For a good bath, with the smell of natural wood, a steamed broom and aromatic oils, suitable finishing with tiles made of natural stone: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials withstand the highest temperatures, have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for the floor and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic finishing is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made from clay have been considered the standard environmental cleanliness, it does not emit any odors or fumes at all. To decorate the steam room, choose products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors; it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video – Finishing the inside of the bath + ceiling insulation

Tile installation

For an area of ​​about 6 square meters you need to prepare:

  • level and tape measure,
  • 6 square meters ceramic or stone tiles,
  • three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
  • one package of Terracotta grout,
  • drill for stirring with attachment,
  • construction gun,
  • hammer,
  • putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant adhesive from the Terracotta company is used in areas where the temperature will not exceed 400° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic; it is used in places where heating is up to 1100° C.

First, the base is prepared. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is applied, then a mesh is applied, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

In the photo - waterproofing and mesh for applying the solution

Done on the floor cement strainer, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and drainage must be organized. Twine or fishing line is stretched along the perimeter of the floor or wall, so you can check the correct installation.

Before laying begins, the ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

When producing a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed thoroughly, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from bottom to top, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely cut drywall instead of crosses. When installing drain holes on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

Floor tiles are installed using glue with sand; glue without sand may shrink. All other rows are placed according to the level with the already created slope.




Mortar is applied to the back of each tile so that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed against the floor. It is then pressed down with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant Terracotta grout is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is filled with water and mixed with a mixer. After this, the solution can be poured into the gun tube, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! The grout should not get on outside decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only then easily remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work has been completed, the first fire can be carried out.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room

Building a bathhouse is only half the job. After construction is completed, it is necessary to begin finishing. Interior decoration performs not only an aesthetic function. It includes a whole range of functions to protect walls, floors, and ceilings. It is also necessary to do bath furniture to complete the interior of the room. You can invite a team of specialists to carry out the work. However, if you have the desire and some knowledge in this area, you can do everything yourself. In the article we will tell you how to make the interior decoration of a bathhouse with your own hands, show photos and video instructions.

Interior decoration begins with the choice of material. Most often wood is used for this. But not everyone wood material will do. This is especially true if we're talking about about a steam room where there will always be high temperatures and high humidity.

Some materials emit substances hazardous to health at high temperatures.

  1. Pine. Pine wood releases resins at high temperatures. These substances can be hazardous to the health of people who take steam baths. Therefore, under no circumstances should you use pine boards.
  2. Fiberboard and chipboard. These materials release toxins and can cause poisoning. In addition, they swell.
  3. Linoleum. It is not used for the same reason. He highlights harmful substances, rots and collapses.

What cannot be used in the steam room is perfect for the dressing room and rest room. It is best to decorate the dressing room with pine. Wood will add a pleasant aroma to the room and give you the opportunity to enjoy a real Russian bathhouse.

Lining made of linden and larch is best suited for finishing a steam room.

It is better to use larch for the steam room. This is very durable material, which will serve for many years. It is not destroyed by high temperatures and humidity. Another good option for a steam room is linden.

It is better to use wood in the form of lining. The panels are easy to install, “breathe”, and can be simply replaced. Lining is an ideal finishing material, especially considering that there will be a heat-insulating layer under the finishing.

Finishing process

Before you do the interior decoration of the bathhouse, you need to understand the intricacies of the process. Wood finishing and brick bath produced almost identically.

Work starts from the bottom up: from the floor to the ceiling.

  1. First the floor is laid. Use Oak planks Not recommended here, they slip a lot. It's better to apply edged board larches. It is better to raise the floor in the steam room by ten centimeters to ensure heat retention.
  2. The shelf must be raised above the oven level by 10-15 cm.
  3. After this you need to sheathe the walls. The lining is installed on the sheathing.
  4. When the walls are decorated, you can start working on the ceiling.
  5. The finishing is complete, now we need to start installing various equipment and furniture for the bathhouse. All this can be bought.

Advantages

Linden lining is a fairly expensive material. However, it is the best choice for finishing the steam room. Linden lining has a number of advantages, it:

  • resistant to moisture and temperatures;
  • "breathes";
  • looks aesthetically pleasing;
  • durable;
  • smells nice.

Lining

  1. Before starting work, the surfaces must be carefully leveled. If they are uneven, the lining will turn out to be “waves”.
  2. The material must be brought and left for one or two days to adapt to the microclimate.
  3. The work begins with the installation of slatted sheathing. To do this, you will need slats, which must be installed at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The outermost slats are attached first. The work uses a plumb line and level. Self-tapping screws must be galvanized or stainless, because ordinary ones will very quickly collapse from corrosion. If the walls in the room are perfectly smooth, then you can try installing lining without sheathing. It is attached with screws or special brackets directly to the wall. However, if there is no confidence in the evenness of the walls, then it is better not to risk it.
  4. After installing the sheathing, you can begin installing the lining. This is a very simple process, even a beginner can do it. The work is carried out using fasteners that are resistant to corrosion and high temperatures. This is the most easy way for novice craftsmen who are interested in how to decorate the inside of a bathhouse without special knowledge.

The need for vapor barrier

A bathhouse is a place where there is always high humidity. However, a number of materials are well ventilated. The question naturally arises: is it necessary to install a vapor barrier here? It all depends on what materials were used in the construction of the structure and in its finishing.

If the lining is installed, and the bathhouse itself is wooden, then the vapor barrier may be unnecessary. The walls already “breathe” perfectly. IN brick structures You will most likely have to install a vapor barrier. However, if the design provides good ventilation, you can do without it. The issue of installing a vapor barrier is individual, and only a specialist can solve it.

Tile

Tiles - inexpensive and practical material. True, it is better not to use it in the steam room, but in the washing room and dressing room it will be just right. This material does not need to be replaced for a long period of time. The tile is not destroyed by moisture and high temperatures, it does not rot and does not require maintenance.

There are several varieties bath tiles, however, there are two main types.

  1. Glazed (enameled).
  2. Non-enamelled.

For a bath, the ideal choice would be a glazed type of tile. This material is the most resistant to various influences. Non-enamel tiles do not tolerate temperature changes that occur constantly in a bathhouse.

When choosing tiles, it is better to choose those samples that have a rough surface. This will prevent slips and falls.

When leaning on a wall, it is better to be sure that it will not cause you to slip. Therefore, not only the tiles on the floor should be rough, but also the tiles on the walls.

You also need to pay attention to what kind of base the tiles have. It's better if it's smooth. A porous base can cause the spread of fungus.

As for the shape, the tiles are produced both traditionally in squares and rectangles, and in stars. Found among varieties and complex designs. For a beginner, it is better to take rectangular tiles, as they are very easy to install.

When purchasing, you need to know exactly how much material is needed. In this case, you need to buy 5-10% more tiles than required. After all, this is a very brittle material.

  1. First, the tiles are soaked in water for several minutes. This technique will save the craftsman a decent amount of glue. The fact is that dry tiles will absorb glue, but wet tiles will not.
  2. Laying tiles begins from the most visible corner in the room. In order to determine it, you need to look at the interior of the bathhouse from the entrance.
  3. Tile adhesive is applied to the surface. After the tile is placed in place, you need to hammer its edges with a mallet. To apply the glue you will need a special comb spatula.
  4. Separator crosses must be installed between the tiles.
  5. When the glue is completely dry, all that remains is to rub the seams.

The tiles look great both on the floor and on the walls. The tiled mosaic looks especially beautiful. In some cases, the tiles need to be cut. It's not very difficult if you have a cutting tool. After completing the work, all that remains is to choose furniture for the bathhouse.

A truly conscientious finishing of a bathhouse is not only aesthetic visual characteristics, but also the excellent smell of natural wood, the long service life of the finishing, as well as the bathhouse building itself.
The interior decoration must be done with high quality and in such a way that everyone who gets there will admire not only the beauty of the finish, the smells, but also how well the steam is preserved in the treasured steam room.

Finishing the steam room in the bathhouse - the best options


As they say, in a real steam room of a Russian bath there is such steam that “it’s just enough to hang axes.” In some baths it is simply impossible to steam, as the temperature in them reaches temperatures of up to 120 degrees Celsius.
Therefore, the decoration of the walls in the steam room becomes so important, serving not only to protect the walls from exposure to steam, but also the person from steam burns or allergies.

Wall and ceiling finishing

The so-called “lining” or modern panels for cladding as a bathhouse finish is a truly universal choice. The question may rightly arise: why?
Well, for starters, because decorating a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands using the indicated materials is not a difficult process, and with such finishing the walls look smoother and acquire the ability to “breathe,” which is determined by good microcirculation. Condensation will not form on such a wall of the steam room in the bathhouse, let alone external characteristics. In addition, the installation of the “lining” itself is very simple; for such work you do not need to be a carpenter or a master in this matter.


Decorating a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands using lining

One very, very worth remembering important detail– the bathhouse will not tolerate varnish for wooden lining. Some varnishes and so-called “stains” at sufficiently high temperatures will release substances that are harmful and dangerous to human health.

Good wood means good finishing

Interior finishing of a bathhouse is a fairly simple process, but you should prepare well for it.
A considerable part of the whole process and the subsequent operation of the walls, their durability, depends on the quality of the wood from which the finishing material is made. High-quality material will always be sufficiently well dried, properly hewn, and will not have various nicks, cracks or protruding marks from knots on the surface structure.
For example, “lining” made of hardwood is almost the most perfect option. It is characterized by a reduced heat capacity, which is why the bath room will heat up very well and quickly, and at the same time the walls will not be so hot that you can get burned or scalded.

Each breed is good in its own way. For example, birch panels have the ability to positively influence the human body as a whole, aspen has healing properties.
A truly universal solution can be your desire and the implementation of a combination of several types of breeds at once.
Although, if you look carefully, birch has a loose structure, so when harvesting it will dry out quite a lot. It is easy to process, but if there is an alternative, it is better to abandon it.


Finishing the steam room with clapboard made of hardwood

And larch, as an example, has good performance durability due to the fact that it perfectly copes with changes (sometimes very sharp and quite large) in temperatures and high humidity.
As for linden, it is attractive with its light shade. In addition, it is quite moisture resistant and has good mechanical properties. It also takes a long time to heat up, so it is suitable for finishing both walls and ceilings. You can even line the wall near the stove with it for fire safety reasons. With all this, when heated, linden begins to smell very pleasant. To avoid darkening on this type of material, it will have to be treated with special compounds.

Linden is also classified as a “honey plant,” which adds to its property and ability to “breathe.” It perfectly absorbs moisture and provides additional sound insulation. What can we say about the medicinal properties.
The most the best option there will be aspen according to your taste. It is also suitable for finishing steam room ceilings. Its mechanical characteristics are so perfect that it has long been used even in the construction of drinking wells, even burial rooms.
With proper preparation and drying of this rock, the strength indicators increase significantly, so that it will be difficult to even hammer a nail into such a plate. Suitable for the floors of your bathhouse.
Also, aspen is not at all susceptible to rot, and a pleasant plus will be its resistance to various fungi - mold, for example. In addition, there are opinions that aspen helps get rid of migraines and headaches.

Finishing the floor in the steam room


The floor in the steam room should have a quick “water drainage”

When it comes to finishing the floor in your steam room, you should keep in mind that the temperature there is much lower than closer to the ceiling. It rarely reaches 30-40 degrees Celsius. The floor in the steam room of your sauna can even be earthen, concrete or clay.
It is important to take into account the fact that the floor must have rapid “water drainage”.
Of course, in order to avoid various types of thermal shock, it is recommended to additionally cover your floor with a special mat, boards or special cork covering.
For working with the floor and its finishing, ordinary tiles or sanded boards are also suitable.

The technological process for finishing the floor is quite simple: we place the boards on the joists, preferably closer to each other, and fasten them with self-tapping screws.
If the choice is made in favor of tiles, then you will first need to screed, then thoroughly level the working surface. The tiles are laid on the intended special mixture. All seams are treated with a special moisture-resistant compound, which will not allow water to get under the facing layer and contribute to the formation of mold. It is worth remembering that this finishing option will make the floor dangerously slippery, which means you need to consider a wooden panel to create safe conditions for steamers.


Finishing the floor in the steam room with tiles

When choosing wood or tiles, remember: the good thing about tiles is that they are quite easy to care for, while wood will help create a general feeling of comfort and, from a decorative point of view, benefits more from the overall composition.

What won't work

No matter how high-quality and correct from the point of view of the technology of work your finishing is, it is absolutely not suitable for a steam room and bath rooms the following materials:

  • Linoleum covering;
  • Plastics;
  • Pine boards;
  • Wood slabs.

The listed types of materials are characterized by insufficient resistance to high temperatures, and plastic and linoleum will even emit harmful substances. Pine is characterized by increased release of resins.

Examples of finishes

  • Finishing the bathhouse with exotic “abashi”.
    “Abashi”, also known as African oak, is very suitable for finishing a steam room. At sufficiently high temperatures, this type of wood will evenly distribute the temperature throughout the room and help prevent burns. Perfect for making shelves and others important elements in the steam rooms of the baths.
    Properties of "Abashi": increased moisture resistance, absence of knots, absence of resins in the structure, lightness, ductility, strength and durability. An impressive and noteworthy list, isn’t it?


Finishing baths and saunas with Abashi wood

  • Finishing the bathhouse with Canadian cedar.
    This choice and material is quite popular among others. Despite the aesthetic properties and beautiful view, cedar panels also have many excellent properties in influencing human health: it is rich essential oils. Cedar itself is capable of fighting certain types of microbes. It is also worth noting the ease of processing, moisture resistance, resistance to rotting and various temperature conditions.
  • Linden "lining".
    This type of finishing material has become quite widespread in Russia. Linden "lining" has beautiful color and a pleasant smell. This material is also good and easy to process, it is quite hard and durable. It dries out well and does not cause unpleasant cracks in the future. Compared to the materials described above, it is quite affordable in terms of price characteristics.

  • Often, advertisements for turnkey baths indicate options for finishing with spruce or pine. The place of origin is the northern regions, which give this breed sufficient density. Due to this, durability and resistance to the formation of unpleasant mold increases, and indicators for moisture resistance are also positive.


Finishing the inside of the bathhouse with linden and pine

It is worth considering that spruce and pine emit a rather pleasant smell, and this, in turn, gives a therapeutic effect from visiting such bathhouses decorated with this material. Despite the profitability and accessibility, you need to understand that this type of material is very demanding in processing.

The steam room in the bathhouse is decorated with modern and quality material- it's a delicate matter. Now that we have discussed this issue, let's move on to the issue of thermal insulation.
The future thermal insulation itself will depend on what material we chose for building the bathhouse. If we are talking about wooden log house, That additional insulation may not be required. Although, due to the shrinkage of the timber, after some time, cracks and gaps form between the logs of this very timber. Taking this feature into account, “caulking” is made between them using flax or a special mixture of sawdust and clay.


Thermal insulation of a steam room in a bathhouse

Among a narrow circle of bathhouse builders, there is an opinion that a completely lined steam room in a bathhouse with “lining” is not quite the right solution. The opinion is explained by the fact that wood is a living material, and such serious cladding will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the steam room.
Although, on the other hand, when modern conditions There is another opinion that insulating a steam room is almost a priority task.
Of course, at the very beginning you need to decide on the position of the steam room. According to the classics, the entrance to it should be from a room where you can wash. If the decision is made to move from the dressing room, then they should be connected by a mini corridor.

The building materials market offers a whole line of insulating insulation for baths. Such materials can be either artificial or natural.
TO natural types relate:

  1. Tow intended to combat cracks;
  2. The insulation of the crowns is sphagnum;
  3. And the employee good insulation walls with special construction moss.

These materials are environmentally friendly; at high temperatures they do not emit hazardous substances, have excellent insulating properties.


Materials for thermal insulation of steam rooms

On the other side, natural materials subject to fairly rapid rotting and decomposition, they are very loved various types insects.
The line of artificial insulation materials is presented mainly by:

  • Expanded polystyrene;
  • Styrofoam.

They are distinguished by a fairly long service life, they are resistant to humidity and are unloved by insects. The thermal insulation performance is simply impressive.
Requirements for seals
Any insulation or sealant must be fire-resistant and withstand temperatures over one hundred degrees Celsius, as well as have good insulating properties.
So beautiful and necessary properties has basalt wool (for walls), and for the floor - expanded clay slabs. If we are talking about the ceiling, then the ideal choice is polystyrene foam.

Insulating the ceiling in a steam room usually requires much more materials than insulating walls or ceilings. This is explained by the fact that steam, by its nature, rises very quickly to the ceiling and, in order to avoid its cooling, sufficient attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the ceiling.
The step-by-step instructions are as follows:


Wall insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

  1. We attach the foil to the walls using a 40 mm horizontal beam;
  2. We place a sealant between them (penotherm is suitable);
  3. We stretch a layer of foil over everything we have. A construction stapler is suitable for fixing it;
  4. Using aluminum tape, we isolate the existing joints;
  5. Then we attach the blocks vertically;
  6. We begin facing work.

We talked earlier about how to carry out decorative finishing and what materials are suitable for this.

If the floor of your steam room is made of concrete, proceed as follows:
Plywood is attached to the floor, on top of which the so-called hydrosol is laid. We place its edges behind the wall and secure it with tape containing aluminum. If there are gaps, then we treat them with a construction hairdryer. Place it on top of the resulting reinforced mesh and pour the concrete solution.


Waterproofing the floor of a steam room

If you plan to have a wooden floor, then first, under the joists, we attach a layer of so-called mineral wool 15 centimeters, we fix roofing material on top of it. Next, we treat the wooden surfaces with special compounds such as antiseptics. We lay a subfloor on top of the roofing felt and cover it with clapboard.
Although interior decoration steam room and it seems at first glance a labor-intensive and complex process, but you should understand that at the same time, decorating the interior of a steam room with your own hands is a fairly simple and easy process if you correctly follow all the described rules and recommendations in this article.
Good luck in your construction endeavors!

It's creative and interesting. On interior design premises, as a rule, can take up to half the construction budget, which is not surprising. A wonderful relaxation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work yourself and choosing budget options finishing.

Work order

The baths are built in different types, one or two floors, with billiard rooms and upper recreation rooms; a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization are installed as additional equipment. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider standard version bathhouses with three functional rooms: steam room, washing room, dressing room or relaxation room.

It is clear that all three rooms are finished differently. For example, pine cannot be used in a steam room, but it can be used in a dressing room; this will save money and fill the room with delicious pine aromas.

Important! The procedure for finishing activities in a wooden or other bathhouse is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.

Algorithm finishing works in the bath:

  • floor arrangement;
  • wall covering;
  • installation of the ceiling;
  • installation of equipment, furniture.

Proper finishing, which includes installation of insulation, vapor barrier and decoration of premises, will create paradise for relaxation of soul and body.

Floor arrangement

The process is essentially not difficult. In a wooden bathhouse, logs made of timber 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm are installed, and boards, edged or tongue-and-groove, are laid on them. Hardwood is preferable among materials, but the use of oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option- larch floors.

The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. This is especially true in the washing department, where there is excess water. In the steam room the floor is raised from general level by 150–200 mm to preserve heat.

The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and primer to prevent their swelling and the formation of fungal colonies.

Many cover the floor ceramic tiles in the steam room and washing room, this is reasonable for a brick bath. IN wooden building the best floor is a polished, carefully processed board. Treatment with primers from Tikkuril, Snezhet and other companies will protect against deformation.

As for the floors in the rest room, it all depends on imagination and financial capabilities. You can use tiles, the most different types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates reliable protection from moisture, does not allow the inner part of the panel - HDF board - to swell, does not deform, lasts for 20 years. You can use modern finishing materials that have recently appeared on the market liquid linoleum and much more.

The floor in rooms where water can enter is made with a slight slope and drainage.

Bathroom wall decoration

For finishing the walls of the steam room, the choice of materials is not large; the use of wood-based materials, linoleum and other chemical products is unacceptable here.

The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made from the following types of trees:

  1. Cedar. Moisture-resistant, able to withstand high temperatures and temperature changes, cedar is most preferable for the walls of a steam room; when heated, its wood releases substances that are healing for the human body and pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are gentle to the touch, it’s nice to lean your back against a cedar wall. A steam room trimmed with cedar should be heated strongly for the first time and the heat should be maintained for 40–45 minutes so that the cedar weeps out the resin.
  2. Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular despite its high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus its pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
  3. Linden. A healing tree, the wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20–25 years, a real godsend for a steam room, essential linden oils heal the bronchi and treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and slightly romanticizes the steam room space;
  4. Larch is the most frequent guest of steam rooms, washing rooms and relaxation rooms. Walls finished with larch are not afraid of moisture; the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous bags and the structure of the fibers. Wood has a variety of color palette, natural shine and beauty of the design. Walls finished with larch also require initial heating to maximum temperatures for 40–45 minutes in order for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive and is considered popular.
  5. Aspen. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find on the construction market; it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.

The walls of the washing room can be tiled or lined with clapboard made of coniferous wood. You can use tiles for tiling walls. moisture resistant drywall, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.

Tiles for a washing room are especially relevant in a brick building; they do not collapse under the influence of moisture, are easy to maintain, and last a long time.

Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more durable. A matte, rough surface is preferable to prevent slipping, and the reverse side, smooth without porosity, will prevent fungus from occurring.

Whatever type of finishing is used in the washing room, it is worth putting rubber mats or wooden grates on the floor.

The walls in the rest room should be finished depending on how well it is protected from the penetration of steam and moisture. But for a log bathhouse you can’t think of anything better than sanded logs, however, it’s a matter of taste. Even suitable for brick walls decorative plaster of any kind, including Venetian. And yet, the stylistic features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit by the samovar with friends, having a heart-to-heart conversation.

Decorative finishing walls is carried out after installing a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals the room, its use is permissible in the washing room and rest room, foil penofol simultaneously serves as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and insulation.

The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bathhouse is obvious, especially if the premises do not have forced ventilation. Walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.

Ceiling finishing

The finishing of the ceilings is similar to the finishing of the walls. The same materials and technologies are used for the steam room. In the washing room, you can cover the ceiling with clapboard made of linden, cedar, and aspen. The best insulation for the ceiling of a steam room is ecowool. The material is not cheap, but it is worth the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of ​​the steam room is small.

A layer of foil material is definitely needed, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. You should not use materials based on foamed propylene foam or polyurethane foam. The optimal insulation option is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.

Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is the key to safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!

Decoration of premises

The aesthetics and comfort of the bath space is formed not only finishing materials. Required good furniture:

  • shelves in the steam room;
  • font in the washing room;
  • sofa, table for the rest room.

You also need beautiful doors, glass or solid wood, and many other nice things.

A special factor of comfort that ensures the functionality of the space is proper lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, use of lamps is a topic for a separate discussion. Here you just need to note the importance of proper lighting in all rooms of the bathhouse, which creates a mood that promotes relaxation and a pleasant pastime.