Insulation of the facade of the house from the outside with expanded polystyrene for siding. Scheme of wall insulation with expanded polystyrene outside and the optimal thickness of insulation for a brick house for siding

A house built from any material is capable of losing heat through walls, roofs and other building elements. Even if you do not always save on heating, it turns out to achieve the optimal temperature regime.

Therefore, you should take care of insulating the house outside with penoplex with your own hands under siding. One material is able to reliably keep heat in the room, and the second one will transform the house from the outside.

The material is popular both in private construction and on an industrial scale. All thanks to a number of advantages that Penoplex has:

1. The minimum indicators of heat conductivity. Thanks to this, it retains all the warm air inside the house.
2. Moisture repellent properties. The material does not absorb moisture at all, which means that it is not afraid of mold or fungus, which like to settle in a warm and humid environment.
3. More durable than Styrofoam.
4. Long service life.
5. It can be used for insulating buildings made of gas and foam concrete, as well as silicate bricks.
6. The presence of soundproofing properties.
7. Ease of handling and installation. There is no need to acquire specific tools if the developer will do all the work with his own hands.

Apparently, Penoplex really deserves popularity, since there are a lot of positive characteristics.

Manufacturing technology

Insulation is a close relative of polystyrene, since it is also made from polystyrene balls. But there are some differences in the technological process that allow you to create a material with improved characteristics.

• bunker - polystyrene, fire retardants (reduce the flammability of the material) and other additives are loaded. Everything is mixed here;
• Extruder - in this machine, the components are fused and mixed several more times. In addition, another component is attached - a blowing agent, which creates a large number of cells filled with air;
• forming sheets using rollers or plates.

Thanks to this production, penoplex is obtained, suitable for insulating almost all buildings and important communications.

Design features

As mentioned above, it consists of a large number of cells filled with air. About 98% of the foam volume is air, and only 2% is polystyrene itself. At the same time, it is clearly seen on the cut that the structure is homogeneous, and the bubbles are evenly distributed throughout the entire layer of insulation.

It is known from physics lessons that air does not conduct heat well, that is, it heats up and cools down for a long time. Thanks to this, the material has thermal insulation properties.

Scope, is it possible to do the work yourself, do it yourself

Since penoplex has a lot of positive characteristics
as a heat-insulating material, it is used for insulation:

1. Facades in private construction.
2. Plinths and foundations.
3. Loggias and balconies.
4. External walls of industrial facilities and public buildings.
5. Various pipelines.
6. Required tools

When insulating a house outside with penoplex with your own hands under siding, you do not have to buy any special tools. The usual set that any responsible owner has is quite enough. The following tools are required:

• pencil or stamp for marking;
• tape measure;
• building level and plumb line to determine the horizontal and vertical;
• hammer or screwdriver;
• puncher for making holes for brackets;
• a clerical knife or an ordinary sharpened knife, a hacksaw for cutting foam sheets.

What exactly needs to be purchased at a hardware store is fasteners, that is, umbrella dowels.

Preparatory work

To carry out any work, it is necessary to carefully prepare the bases. You should not skip this stage, even if the house is completely new, and even more so for old buildings. The presence of fungal deposits under the penoplex will contribute to the rapid destruction of the main structure. After all, mold and mildew thrive in a warm and humid environment.

If cracks remain on the wall, they will become cold bridges. This means that there will be no effective insulation. In this case, the owner will lay down all responsibility on the team that performed the work or on the material. Different reasons require a special approach at the preparatory stage, therefore we will consider two options:

• wooden structure;
• brick house.

Wooden base

Wood is rightfully considered an environmentally friendly material. In such a house you feel light and comfortable. But at the same time, the material is short-lived. Quickly enough absorbs moisture from the environment and at the same time loses its attractiveness, and even thermal insulation properties. Therefore, when preparing a wooden base for penoplex, they are attentive to:

1. Presence of mold, mildew or insects on the substrate. Everything is carefully cleaned and treated with a special antiseptic compound, as well as a moisture-repellent agent.
2. Differences on the wall. If there are strongly protruding places, it is better to cut them down or remove them in another way.
3. Cracks. If the house is built of rounded logs, then it is necessary to caulk the inter-crown space with natural material and only after that proceed to the sheathing with penoplex.
4. If there are rotten parts, they are replaced and reinforced.
5. The new home is given time to shrink naturally.

In addition, do not forget to remove all hanging structures that can create inconvenience in the process of finishing the house. And all metal parts that cannot be removed are coated with a special compound that protects against corrosion.

Brick base

A brick base also requires careful preparation. The main stages practically do not differ from a wooden house:

• freeing walls from curtain structures;
• sealing cracks and depressions - cement mortar is used for this;
• cleaning the base from dust, stains and mildew. Here you need to choose the right means suitable for processing bricks;
• a new structure takes time to shrink.

If you do everything yourself, but correctly, then the premises will become warm and reliable, and the siding finish will cover both the insulation and the main structures from the negative effects of the environment.

Frame fabrication and vapor barrier

In order to attach the penoplex to the wall, there is no need to install an additional frame. The material is securely fixed with glue and mechanical fasteners to the base. But to fix the siding on the penoplex, a crate is needed. It can be made from:

1. Wooden beams.
2. Metal profile.

But before starting the insulation process, the walls should be covered with waterproofing. To do this, use a vapor barrier membrane or bitumen mastic. If it is a film, then they begin to lay it from the bottom of the wall, so that the next layer covers the previous one by 10-15 cm.


The joints are glued with tape, the membrane is fixed with a construction stapler. The entire surface is treated with mastic, without missing a single detail. It is imperative to completely dry the layer.

Wooden frame

Wood lathing is capable of withstanding vinyl panels, but metal siding will require something sturdier. Wooden parts are coated with a protective compound that will help extend the service life.

A wooden frame is installed already on top of the foam, you just need to wait until the adhesive composition, on which the heat insulator was attached, has completely dried. To fix the battens, front dowels are chosen, the length of which is equal to the thickness of the insulation multiplied by 2.


Such a frame will not only serve as a supporting structure for siding, but also create a ventilation gap. For foam insulation, it is simply necessary to leave such a gap for the natural removal of excess steam.

Metal crate

If a metal profile is chosen for the installation of the siding, then the brackets will have to be fixed even before the insulation is attached. Therefore, they adhere to the following plan:

• laying waterproofing;
• markings for brackets;
• installation of brackets;
• fixing the penoplex;
• fastening guides.

In order for the insulation to be conveniently placed in those places where the brackets are, holes are made in the penoplex and put on the parts. Be sure to glue the heat-insulating material, and then additionally fix it with dowels.


After the outer walls are sheathed with insulation, the guides are fixed to fix the siding. This will create a ventilation gap.

Instructions for thermal insulation of the house outside

The technology of wall decoration with this insulation is quite simple. A beginner can do the job on his own. The only thing that has to be done carefully is to study the theoretical foundations of the process. If you follow the instructions, then there should be no problems.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

To attach mineral wool under the siding to the base, you will need to make an additional crate, which will be an additional support for the insulation. The scheme of actions is approximately as follows:

1. Laying waterproofing.
2. Installation of a frame for mineral wool.
3. Installation of mineral wool mats.
4. Laying another layer of waterproofing.
5. Fixing insulation and membranes with dowels with wide caps. For a secure fit, there are 5 mechanical fasteners per mat.
6. Installation of a frame for siding.

In this case, the entire structure will be as reliable as possible and insulation over time.
will not settle.

Heat insulator installation

As for the penoplex, there is no need to mount an additional frame for insulation here. This significantly reduces the time required to complete the work. In order for the insulation to be fixed securely, they adhere to the following plan:

• a starting profile is installed above the foundation or plinth;
• finishing starts from the bottom corner of the house;
• an adhesive solution is applied to a sheet of penoplex around the perimeter, and several blunders are made in the center;
• the lower edge of the element is placed in the starting profile and pressed tightly against the base;
• the next sheet is covered with glue and tightly applied to the first sheet;
• this is how the first row is finished;
• in the next row, the sheets are shifted to the side, half the length. This method of fastening will help to avoid the coincidence of the seams, which means that the structure will be stronger;
• sheathe the entire wall.

When the glue dries up, they begin to mechanically fix the foam. Holes are made using a puncher. Dowels are installed in them, after which the core is screwed in.

Fastening the guide elements

Under the siding, you need to set the guides correctly. If the panels are installed horizontally, the profiles are aligned vertically. The elements are spaced evenly, and the distance between them matches the distance between the holes in the perforated edge.

For panels that are installed vertically, a horizontal crate is suitable. In this case, too, all parts are evenly spaced. Do not secure the guides too close to each other. The optimal distance will be 40-50 cm. During fixing, be sure to control how evenly both the profiles and the siding panels are attached.

To insulate a house of penoplexes, it is completely unnecessary to select special weather conditions. It is enough that it does not rain or snow. The drying time of the adhesive solution will depend on the ambient temperature, but the quality of adhesion is not affected.

Before buying material and doing everything with your own hands, still consult with professionals. Maybe for a specific building it is better to choose another insulation or finishing material. In addition, a master who knows his business will help you accurately calculate the amount of materials and the thickness of the insulation.

People install vinyl siding to improve the look and insulation of their home by pre-insulating the building with flat foam of the required thickness.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic for siding will improve the efficiency of thermal energy use. The thicker the foam, the higher the insulation of the house will be. Insulation of walls for siding from the outside has become a popular element of construction work among owners of private houses. When choosing, everyone decides for themselves what material thickness to use. It all depends on the climatic conditions in which it will be used.

Preparing the wall surface for installation

Work on wall insulation with foam plastic can be done at any time of the year, preferably only in dry weather, since moisture ingress on it can lead to the occurrence of mold and mildew in the future.

Wall insulation outside for siding can also be carried out at any time of the year, but when using vinyl building material, the outside temperature should be at least minus 10 degrees, because in the cold it becomes fragile.

At the beginning of installation work, the walls must be freed from drainpipes, lamps, various plants and other objects. There are no other requirements in preparation, since the facade insulation for siding is carried out using a crate, during the installation of which it is possible to hide all surface irregularities and wall defects.

Installing the lathing and laying the foam

Tools necessary for work: hammer, puncher, metal scissors, screwdriver, electric jigsaw, screwdriver.

To install thermal insulation on the walls of a building for siding, you will need the following tool:

• angle grinder (in a simple way "grinder") with a cutting disc diameter of 150 mm;
• puncher;
• scissors for metal (cut a galvanized profile);
• electric jigsaw with a nail file for wood;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• scaffolding;
• electric carry;
• screwdriver.

On the walls of the house, a crate made of a galvanized metal profile or wooden bars is arranged. Wood will be cheaper in cost than metal, but its service life is shorter.

The choice of this building material should be based on considerations of the climatic conditions in which the object is located.

If the climate is dry, then a wooden crate should be used, if it is humid - metal.

Installation of the lathing is done as follows. When starting work, you need to decide how the siding will be located - horizontally or vertically. The distance between the profile and its installation depends on this.

With the horizontal arrangement of the siding, the timber or galvanized profile is located vertically and vice versa, if a vertical arrangement of the facing material is provided, then the lathing will be mounted horizontally.

The thickness of the lathing is selected according to the width of the foam, the thicker the insulating material, the larger the size of the frame. Wooden blocks are treated with special refractory and antiseptic compounds for a longer service life.

The surface of the wall is treated with waterproofing mastic. You can not use a steam and hydro barrier, since in this case the walls will not allow air to pass through, and this will have a very negative effect on the health of the people living in the house.

Additionally, the frame is installed around door and window openings and at the corners of the building. A metal profile or a wooden beam is fastened using galvanized screws and special plastic dowels, which are hammered into holes previously made by a puncher.

After installing the lathing, foam is inserted into the openings between the frame and fastened with special disc screws (builders call them "umbrellas") and glue, which is applied to the surface of the wall and foam, for stronger contact.

The seams between the flat foam are covered with special building mixtures so that air does not pass through, this will keep the house as warm as possible in winter and cool in summer.

After installing the thermal insulation, a wind-waterproof membrane is installed on top, which allows moisture and air to pass in one direction - from the building to the outside, and not back. This membrane allows steam to escape from the insulation. Waterproofing protection is installed at a distance of 20-50 mm from the foam using a wooden bar or a galvanized profile.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that the membrane is a very flammable material and its combustion proceeds at a high speed, so it is worth thinking carefully before using it.

Siding installation

After all the work done to install the insulation and the windproof membrane, the siding is attached to the frame of the sheathing in the direction (vertically or horizontally) that was originally chosen.

When installing siding, it is necessary to follow all the instructions of the manufacturer, because each building material has its own nuances when working with it.

The density of the insulating material should be 25-30 kg / m³, and the thickness should be about 50 mm. But in each case, the material is selected individually, depending on weather and climatic conditions.

The thickness of the insulating material of 50 mm is physically equivalent to a brick wall of 300 mm. Therefore, you should not spend extra money to get the same result.

During installation, you can use plastic dowels, not metal. This will make it possible to operate the thermal insulation for a long time, without additional repairs and financial costs. Construction experts do not recommend using steel dowels, as they believe that in winter cold can enter the walls through them.

After the styrofoam has been laid, it should be plastered using a reinforced fiberglass mesh, which is attached to the insulating material, and plaster is applied on top. This will make it possible to save the foam from the harmful effects of the atmosphere and better insulation.

For a greater effect of insulation, it can be laid crosswise (in two rows) so that there are no seams through which cold can directly penetrate to the walls of the building. This option will be more expensive, but the result will be excellent.

In this case, the frame will be thicker, and the foam is laid in such a way that the seams do not match.

It is recommended to insulate buildings not only during the construction of new houses, but also to carry out such work on ready-made (old) objects. Before starting work on house insulation, it is recommended to replace old windows and doors with new ones, which will give its positive results in the future.

Today, modern construction requires not only beautiful buildings built with quality materials, but also good insulation. This allows you to save energy resources, which are getting smaller every year.

By performing thermal insulation works with siding cladding, it is possible to increase the service life of the building walls for many decades.

Before starting work, it is necessary to consult with specialists who are professionally engaged in thermal insulation of buildings in order to avoid some mistakes and difficulties that can lead to unplanned material and time costs.

Having done all the work correctly, you can further minimize the cost of maintaining siding, walls and insulation.

Siding has a lot of positive characteristics, but it cannot boast of thermal insulation properties. That is why, when decorating residential buildings, the walls are first insulated, and only then the coating panels are attached. What kind of insulation for siding has the best properties, what criteria should be used to choose it, and how to properly insulate it with your own hands - this will be discussed in the article.

In each hardware store, heaters are presented in a wide range, and it is very difficult for an inexperienced person to understand them. Rolls and slabs, expensive and cheap, domestic and foreign production, of different density and thickness - how to determine exactly what you need?

First of all, you need to be guided by the requirements that the material must meet:

• low thermal conductivity is one of the most important qualities that a heater should have. The lower this indicator, the less heat escapes through the walls of the room;
• resistance to temperature extremes and moisture - since the insulation is located on the outside of the building, it is exposed to high and low temperatures, and not all materials retain their original properties. When moistened, the same thing happens, in addition, the risk of fungal growth under the skin increases;
• environmental friendliness - the presence of toxic compounds in the composition is a health hazard and requires additional protective measures when performing thermal insulation;
• fire safety - the insulation should not contribute to the spread of fire during a fire and emit poisonous smoke during combustion. Therefore, preference should be given to fire-resistant and self-extinguishing materials;
• durability - here it is meant that the insulation must fully retain its characteristics, including geometric shapes, during the entire period of operation. Unfortunately, many materials shrink after a few years, or begin to crumble, which leads to a decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Not all materials have such qualities in full, and below we will consider only the most suitable ones. Next, you need to take into account the installation method, especially if you are going to do all the work yourself. Rolled insulation is less convenient to install, it is much easier to fix the plates.

Rolled and slab insulation

Types of heaters

The most popular insulators for siding today are:

• mineral wool;
• based on expanded polystyrene;
• inflatable heaters (ecowool, penoizol, polyurethane foam).

Mineral wool, according to GOST 52953-2008, is divided into three types - stone, slag and glass wool.

GOST R 52953-2008 - free download. THERMAL INSULATING MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS

For the production of the first type, basalt and silicate rocks, as well as their mixtures, are used, slag wool is made from metallurgical waste, glass wool - from waste from the glass industry. These heaters are very thin fibers, pressed into thick fabrics, which are produced in the form of rolls and mats of various sizes and densities. Additionally, they can be foil-coated. As a rule, only stone and glass wool is used to insulate a house for siding, since slag insulation is less water resistant.

Mineral wool insulation with a foil layer

Expanded polystyrene insulation, polystyrene foam and EPS, are light dense sheets formed from a large number of closed cells filled with air. Due to this structure, these heaters practically do not absorb water. They are produced only in the form of plates, differing in density, size, degree of flammability.

Blown materials are those materials that are applied to the base using a special installation under high pressure. Once dry, they form a durable, seamless coating with excellent thermal insulation properties.

Blown insulation - ecowool

Characteristics of mineral wool insulation

Stone wool

Of all the varieties of stone wool, basalt insulation is considered the most popular. It is distinguished by the lowest content of binding components, which includes formaldehyde resins and phenol, which are hazardous to health, which means that it is one of the most environmentally friendly materials. The fibers that make up the insulation are not prickly and smooth enough, so they do not cling to clothes, they do not cause irritation on the skin, you can perform work without protective gloves.

Options	The values
Thermal conductivity	0.035-0.041 W / (m K)
Water absorption	no more than 2%
Vapor permeability	0.55 mg / hPa
Density	30-225 kg / m3
Working temperature	from-180 to 700 ᵒС
Flammability	non-flammable material
Material thickness	from 30 to 150 mm
Dimensions (edit)	500x1000 mm, 600x1000 mm, 600x1200 mm

Manufacturers produce stone wool in the form of mats, soft, semi-rigid and rigid slabs, in rolls. For installation under siding, rigid and semi-rigid slabs are most convenient, but roll insulation is more suitable for horizontal and inclined surfaces.

Pros of stone wool:

• the material is easy to cut, has a low weight, does not create difficulties during installation;
• does not burn and does not emit harmful substances;
• microorganisms, including fungi, do not develop in it;
• reduces noise level up to 20%;
• the service life is 40-50 years without loss of basic characteristics.

• the production of the material requires high costs, respectively, the prices for stone wool are quite high;
• when cutting and shaking the material, fine fibers break and form very fine dust, which easily penetrates the respiratory tract. As a result, a respirator must always be worn during thermal insulation work.

There are many manufacturers who use various industrial waste instead of pure rocks to reduce the cost of the manufacturing process, but at the same time pass off their products as high-quality basalt insulation. It is very difficult to visually recognize a fake, especially for an inexperienced person, so buy stone wool from well-known, time-tested brands. Now the following manufacturers enjoy a high reputation in the market of thermal insulation materials:

The popularity of glass wool has dropped markedly with the advent of basalt and slag insulation on the market, but it is still used in various fields. In appearance, it does not differ much from stone wool, but it is more fragile, so many manufacturers additionally reinforce the material using steel threading. A feature of glass wool is that glass fibers are destroyed at the slightest impact and form a fine dust that easily eats into the skin, penetrates the respiratory tract, eyes and causes severe irritation. For this reason, it is possible to work with glass wool only in protective clothing, a respirator and goggles.

Specifications

Options	The values
Thermal conductivity	0.039-0.047 W / (m K)
Vapor permeability	0.6 mg / mh * Pa
Water absorption	1,5-1,7%
Density	11-25 kg / m3
Flammability	from NG to G1
Material thickness	50-100 mm
Dimensions (edit)	610х1170 mm, 600х1250 mm
Working temperature	from -60 to 450 ᵒС

Pros of glass wool:

• due to its low thermal conductivity, glass wool perfectly retains heat in the house. A layer of material 50 mm thick is similar in terms of thermal insulation properties to a meter-thick brickwork;
• in the manufacture of glass wool, toxic additives are not used, therefore, it does not emit harmful substances even under the influence of high temperatures;
• glass wool slabs are lightweight and can be compressed in a package 6 times from the original volume, followed by straightening, which simplifies the transportation of the insulation;
• the material is easily cut and mounted on the walls;
• microorganisms do not develop in glass wool and insects and rodents do not start;
• Compared to other fiber insulation materials, glass wool is much cheaper.

• high fragility of fibers requires enhanced protection and care in work; increased stress on the material should be avoided;
• the average service life of glass wool is 10 years, then it shrinks strongly and does not provide even minimal thermal insulation of the walls;
• glass wool absorbs moisture vapor and water, which leads to a complete loss of thermal insulation characteristics.

Advice. Slabs laminated with fiberglass with a density of about 30 kg / m3 are best suited for siding. In order not to get a low-quality insulation, pay attention only to certified glass wool from leading manufacturers, for example, Knauf, Isover, Ursa, the domestic brand "Neman".

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Characteristics of expanded polystyrene insulation

Polyfoam has a very low hygroscopicity, in which it is significantly superior to fibrous insulation. Walls sheathed with polystyrene also do not require additional wind protection. This is one of the cheapest insulation options, although not the most effective. Due to the vapor tightness of the material, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the room so that condensation does not accumulate on the walls.

Pros of Styrofoam:

• affordable cost;
• low thermal conductivity;
• light weight;
• ease of installation.

• in terms of noise absorption, polystyrene is inferior to other types of insulation;
• sheets of material break easily, therefore, care must be taken during transportation and installation;
• the foam is damaged by rodents;
• is a combustible material, emits toxic fumes when burned.

EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam)

This material has characteristics similar to foam, but in all respects it is much better. EPPS is widely used in industrial and private construction, its installation does not require much effort or special skills.

• high density and strength of the material;
• practically zero hygroscopicity;
• excellent thermal insulation properties;
• good performance of noise absorption;
• long service life;
• relatively light weight.

• the cost of EPS is about 20-30% higher than that of foam;
• does not let the walls "breathe";
• can be damaged by rodents;
• refers to combustible materials.

Options		EPPS
Thermal conductivity	0.035 W / (m K)	0.028 - 0.032 W / (m K)
Water absorption	0,5 - 1%	0,1 - 0,4%
Density	11-35 kg / m3	30-40 kg / m3
Flammability	G1 - G4	G1 - G4
Thickness	20-100 mm	40-100 mm
Dimensions (edit)	500x500 mm, 600x1200 mm, 1000x1000 mm	580х1180 mm, 600х1200 mm

Styrofoam prices

Characteristics of blown heaters

Ecowool is a new material made from cellulose fibers. It contains a binder - lignin, fire retardants and boric acid as an antiseptic. Ecowool is a loose mass that is applied dry or wet.

Penoizol and polyurethane foam have a cellular structure and are applied to walls in a liquid form. They are lightweight, therefore they almost do not exert loads on the base, but at the same time they cover the entire area with a dense homogeneous layer. With this method of insulation, there is no need to level the walls and install a windscreen, which greatly simplifies installation.

• lack of cold bridges;
• durability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• quick installation.

• these materials are more expensive than other insulation materials;
• for application, it is necessary to have special expensive equipment and experience in working with it.

Options		Penoizol
Thermal conductivity	from 0.037 to 0.042 W / (m * K)	from 0.031 to 0.041 W / (m * K)
Layer density	28-65 kg / m3	5-75 kg / m3
Vapor permeability	0.3 mg / (mhPa)	0.21-0.24 mg / (mhPa)
Flammability	G2	D1
Working temperature	from -40 to +120 0С	-60 + 80 ᵒС

Installation of insulation under siding

Regardless of the material chosen and the method of fixing it, you first need to properly prepare the surface. To do this, they remove everything that can interfere with the work - lighting devices, platbands, decorative elements and other items, and then carefully examine the walls. It is not necessary to level the base, but it is imperative to patch up the cracks and remove the fungus.

As a crate for siding, a wooden beam or metal profiles are used. If you prefer a timber, it is worth pre-treating it with an antiseptic impregnation in order to avoid damage to the wood from condensation and the development of mold.

Prices for various types of bars

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Step 1. A frame made of timber with a section of 50x50 mm is fixed on the wall. The bars are mounted vertically with self-tapping screws and dowels, the distance between the posts should be 1.5-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. It is imperative to control the vertical arrangement of the racks with a building level so that all the elements of the crate are in the same plane.

Step 2. Slabs of mineral wool are alternately inserted between the beams, slightly crushing the edges. After installation, the material is easily straightened and tightly fills the crate cells. If necessary, the slabs are cut with a knife or fine-toothed hacksaw.

Step 3. If the insulation is planned to be mounted in two layers, horizontal jumpers from the timber are fixed on top of the racks with self-tapping screws at the same distance. Next, the mineral wool slabs are fixed again.

Step 4. A windproof membrane is attached on top of the insulation. Since its width is not enough for the entire area of ​​the wall, it is fixed with horizontal stripes, starting from the bottom of the facade. It is most convenient to use a stapler to fix the membrane. Each subsequent strip is laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. To increase the tightness of the coating, the joints are glued with tape along the entire length.

Step 5. Further, strictly according to the level, the guides for the siding are installed using mounting plates. The plates are fixed with self-tapping screws to the crate with a pitch of 40 cm.An air gap of about 3-5 cm should remain between the guides and the windproof membrane.

After that, they begin to clad the facade with siding panels. As you can see, the technology is quite simple and everyone can do it. The most important thing is to secure the plates tightly so that they do not dangle between the posts. If there are gaps left, the heat will go out and all efforts will be in vain.

Siding prices

Thermal insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Step 1. On the wall, according to the level, mark the location of the hangers for the guides. The hangers should be fastened along the entire facade with a step of 40 cm. Holes are drilled at the marked points, dowels are inserted and the hangers are fixed with screws.

Step 2. They take an EPSP board, apply it to the wall and press it a little so that traces of the suspensions are imprinted. Following these traces, cuts are made in the insulation with a knife or a special cutter. Then the slab is again placed against the wall and put on the suspensions, pressing it tightly against the base.

Step 3... The rest of the plates are fixed in the same way, trying to make the joints as thin as possible. If in the process of work gaps have formed here and there, they must be sealed with polyurethane foam with a pistol.

Step 4. After sheathing the facade with insulation, they begin to install the guide profiles for siding. The profiles are attached to the suspensions that protrude from the heat-insulating layer; a 2-3 cm wide ventilation gap is left between the guides and the insulation. Next, the siding is attached.

This insulation can also be attached using umbrella dowels and special glue. In this case, it is more convenient to first mount the crate to which the siding will be attached. Glue is applied to the insulation, then the plate is inserted between the guides and pressed against the base. Upon completion of the installation, the slabs at the joints are additionally fixed with umbrella dowels.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Wall insulation with ecowool can be done in two ways - dry and wet. The first method is not reliable enough, since the material is blown through small holes in the protective film, and it is impossible to control the density and uniformity of filling. In this regard, the wet method is more convenient, the whole process takes place in plain sight. It is this second method that we will consider.

Step 1. The walls are cleaned of dust, cracks and other defects are eliminated. The siding guides will be strengthened strictly in level with a step of about 50 cm. The guides must be fastened using mounting plates so that the frame thickness is at least 10 cm.

Step 2. Ecowool is poured into a blow molding machine, a water-gel solution is added there, and mixed until homogeneous.

Step 3. Turn on the installation and apply a viscous mass to the walls in a dense layer. The joints and corners are especially carefully processed so that no voids remain.

Step 4. Allow the insulation to dry completely, after which the siding panels are mounted to the crate.

In a similar way, the house is insulated with penoizol and polyurethane foam. Many companies lease a spraying unit, which is much cheaper than buying equipment. But in order to do everything efficiently, certain skills are required, and it is better for a beginner to hire specialists for this.

Video - Insulation for siding

Video - Insulation under siding with mineral wool

Video - Installation of EPS insulation under siding

In order for the house cladding with siding with insulation to serve for many years, it is necessary to correctly perform all the work, among which is the choice of a suitable facing and thermal insulation material. Do-it-yourself installation itself does not require special skills, but it has certain nuances that must be taken into account in order to obtain the desired result.

At the moment, there are the following types of siding for facade cladding:

Naturally, there are other varieties: polymer (acrylic), aluminum, ceramic, but they are rarely used.

On a note! When choosing siding, take into account that PVC products are a budget option that combines price and quality. Vinyl is great for covering the outside of a country house or cottage.

The choice of insulation

In most cases, the surface of houses must be additionally insulated. For this, the following materials can be used:

The optimal solution for do-it-yourself work is penoplex and mineral wool. Both varieties are affordable and do not require any special styling skills.

Preparatory work

The technology presupposes a thorough preparation of the foundation. The works may differ depending on the material from which the walls of the house are made.

Wooden base

To qualitatively sheathe such a structure, you need to perform the following steps:

1. The general condition of the coating and foundation is assessed. This must be taken responsibly, because the problems can be eliminated only by disassembling the sheathing and removing the insulation.
2. The surface is freed from all unnecessary, decorative elements are removed.
3. Cracks and crevices are sewn up and cleaned well.
4. The tree is carefully treated with antiseptic compounds. It is also recommended to impregnate with flame retardants.
5. After drying, the damage is covered with a special wood putty.
6. All cracks are carefully sealed.
7. As an additional protection, the basement part (foundation) is waterproofed.

Similar activities are carried out with a frame or panel house, provided that it is fully clad with slabs from the outside.

Important! Work is resumed only after thorough drying of the facade, in dry and sunny weather.

Brick base

Self-preparation of brick surfaces usually does not take much time. Algorithm of work:

1. The masonry is inspected for deformations. If a destruction of the composition of the seam and loosening of the elements are found, the problem is eliminated. For this, a prepared cement mixture or polyurethane foam is used.
2. The joints are checked for mold and mildew. Such a nuisance most often occurs in these places. If a defect is present, then the areas are thoroughly cleaned and treated with special chemicals.
3. If the technology of pouring the foundation and brickwork is violated, long cracks can form on the surface, they are eliminated with putty. To do this, the gap is embroidered, cleaned, treated with an antiseptic and soil, smeared over and rubbed over. On top of the applied mixture, a reinforcing tape is embedded, which will avoid the appearance of "cold bridges".
4. The base is treated with an antiseptic, the foundation is waterproofed.
5. If the thermal insulation is laid on glue, the surface is primed.

Preparing a brick wall for cladding: 1 - cleaning masonry from dirt and mold; 2 - sealing cracks; 3 - treatment with an antiseptic primer

Such procedures are carried out not only for brick, but also for concrete and block bases.

Frame fabrication and vapor barrier

The lathing is needed to fix the siding and create a ventilation gap that eliminates the appearance of condensation. For its construction, a wooden beam or a metal profile is used.

A vapor barrier is preliminarily stretched onto the base, this is especially true for wooden and frame (panel) houses. The material is laid as follows:

1. The canvas is fixed to the surface with a step of 30–40 cm. Slight sagging is allowed.
2. Adjacent strips are overlapped and glued with adhesive tape.
3. All joints and fasteners are sealed.
4. Particular attention is paid to the corners: they are covered in solid pieces, without joints at the convergence of the walls.

The vapor barrier film must be laid with the rough side to the surface of the facade, otherwise the desired effect will not work.

Wooden frame

The construction device goes like this:

1. The base is laid out in 50-60 cm increments (40-50 cm for basement panels). The lines should be perpendicular to the siding being installed.
2. A bar with a section of 50 * 40 or 50 * 50 is processed with protective and fire-resistant compounds. Holes for fasteners are drilled on its surface.
3. The rail is exposed according to the markings, the fixation points are transferred to the wall. Holes are drilled and dowels are hammered (optional for wooden bases).
4. All attachment areas are prepared. The bar is applied at a given place in the level. To ensure accurate and reliable alignment, substrates are used.
5. Self-tapping screws are screwed in.

It is necessary to obtain a rigid structure with a single plane between the posts.

Metal crate

Installation is carried out using U-shaped profiles and hangers. The technology is as follows:

1. The markup is in progress.
2. The locations of the suspensions are marked on the line in increments of 40-50 cm.
3. Holes are drilled, rack fasteners are installed. For this, dowels are driven in and screws are screwed in.
4. The suspension is bent with the letter P.
5. Racks are leveled and screwed on.

To increase the rigidity after warming the house, you can install jumpers.

Attention! Regardless of the method of erecting the frame, window and door openings must be finished: a bar or profile is fixed along their perimeter.

Before sheathing the structure with siding, thermal insulation is carried out. There are several ways to do this.

Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Mineral wool for siding is well suited for a wooden frame. For greater reliability, two layers can be laid.

Scheme of work:

1. Thermal insulation fits tightly between the uprights at the same level. Care must be taken not to damage the corners.
2. The next row of rails is placed. They are placed perpendicular to the previous ones, observing the established step.
3. The space is again filled with mineral wool.
4. A layer of wind protection is stretched from above.
5. The last beam of the frame is installed, which is necessary for the installation of the cladding. The location exactly matches the first slats.

In such a complex way, not only reliable insulation is achieved, excluding "cold bridges", but also a ventilation gap is created.

To get a better understanding of the whole process, watch this video:

Penoplex installation

To achieve the best result, it is recommended to fix penoplex together with a metal frame. Step-by-step installation instructions:

1. The crate is arranged, after which it is necessary to fix and bend the suspensions.
2. According to the size of the insulation plates, a conditional marking is carried out.
3. The material is laid in rows, strung on the fasteners of the frame racks.
4. For additional fixing of the plates, a special dowel with a wide head is used.
5. Rows are positioned offset to avoid overlapping joints. The corners are fixed with an overlap in a checkerboard pattern.
6. The slots are additionally processed with polyurethane foam, taking into account its expansion.
7. The windscreen is stretched.

When all the layers take their places, metal posts and jumpers are installed.

You should know! During further work with panels (especially plastic), an expansion gap must be left to prevent deformations during thermal expansion.

Fastening the guide elements

After the installation of insulation for siding is completed, the main work begins:

All elements must be fastened securely, without bending or sagging. If the initial bar is not enough, then the next one is placed at a distance of 6-10 mm. When the mounting hole does not coincide with the place of fixation, you need to make it yourself with a drill or grinder.

Installation of siding panels

Facade parts are most often laid horizontally: the panel is wound around both corners or around the corner and the connecting strip and lowered until it clicks. From above, the part is screwed to the frame through the existing holes with a gap. The following pieces are assembled up to the overhang of the roof in a similar manner.

To do everything right and eliminate skewing, the panels are checked by level.

Finishing works

The final stage of finishing is the installation of a finishing strip under the protruding section of the roof. If required, the last panel is trimmed and inserted under the tail of the rail. More complex options (especially when working with metal siding) require the creation of notches along the edge of the panels, with which the element will cling to the final profile.

As a finishing touch, J-rails are mounted and a soffit is placed to cover the overhang of the gable or roof.

Working with siding and installing insulation is a rather laborious event that requires accuracy and compliance with the rules. The result will be a house that has a presentable and noble look.

Wall insulation is one of the most important stages of building construction. Thanks to good thermal insulation, the inhabitants of the house will feel comfortable, even in the most severe frosts.

When choosing a material for cladding walls, floors and even foundations, we recommend paying attention to penoplex.

It has a number of benefits that can help you save your budget. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main advantages of the material and installation methods.

If for some reason it does not suit you, you can choose a heater from these materials:

There are several options for insulating the walls of a private house:

• insulation;
• penoplex.

From a practical point of view, external wall insulation is much more convenient and effective. In addition, it becomes possible to additionally decorate the facade of the house with an unusual material, such as mosaics or decorative plaster.

Due to the foam, the walls of the house are additionally leveled, saving finishing material... The only obstacle to external wall insulation may be a ban on facade repairs in apartment buildings.

Comparison of insulation methods

But do not despair, because there is always an opportunity to insulate the walls from the inside. Interior wall decoration with foam-plastic can be done in any season.

When insulating door or window openings, use only solid pieces of foam, this will provide better thermal insulation.

When using penoplex, installation work is simplified and you can do it yourself. Whichever method of finishing you choose, it is necessary to carry out cleaning work on the walls where the sheets of penosplex will be located. Then the surface is treated with special anti-moisture agents and antifungal solutions.

Chips, cracks and other damage formed in the walls are repaired. Penoplex is installed only on a well-dried surface using a special adhesive, and then it is additionally attached to the wall with dowels-fungi.

The sheets must be fixed with a slight offset, and the gaps between them are sealed with polyurethane foam or construction tape. After installing the penoplex, you can start decorating the facade.

Penoplex - advantages and disadvantages, technical characteristics

In recent years, construction has increasingly begun to be used penoplex. All thanks to the special properties and unique manufacturing technology.

It is an inexpensive, synthetic thermal insulation material that is much easier to install than, for example, glass wool.

The standard dimensions of a foam sheet are 1.2 m long, 60 cm wide. Only its thickness can be different, from 2-10 cm.

From a technical point of view, penoplex has the following characteristics:

• Thermal conductivity according to GOST. the standard should be 0.03W / m * C;
• Water vapor permeability should not exceed 0.008 mg / m * hour / * Pa;
• Sound insulation at the level of 41dB;
• Moisture resistance no more than 0.6%;
• The density of the material varies between 28-45 kg / m 3;
• The maximum pressure during compression of the sheet between the plates should be no more than 0.18 MPa;
• The temperature drop range is from –100 to +55 С 0.

Specifications

When choosing a material for better thermal insulation, be guided by these characteristics. This guarantees you high-quality insulation of the facade of a brick house with a low rate of liquid absorption.

Like any building material, penoplex has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

Disadvantages:

• Although the material does not ignite, it melts in the event of a fire, emitting toxic and dangerous smoke, even after extinguishing, it continues to smoke for a long time;
• The material is afraid of direct sunlight and loses its properties after prolonged exposure to the sun.
• Susceptible to the use of solvents, degrades;
• The price depends on the properties and qualities of the penoplex;
• Practical zero vapor permeability, therefore not recommended for insulation and .

Comparison of penoplex with other heaters

Which penoplex to choose for wall insulation? Which one is better for external insulation?

Penoplex is divided into several main types. They differ from each other in composition and characteristics. The better the properties of the material, the higher its price. The name of each brand speaks for itself, so it is easier for the builder to choose the option that suits him:

• Roofing- used for thermal insulation of all types of roofs;
• Stenovoy- used for thermal insulation of walls and the interior of the house;
• Fundamental- it is used when insulating the foundation of a building or basement. The main advantage of this type is its waterproofness, specially designed for such work;
• Penoplex comfort- is more popular when decorating balconies, apartment rooms. Has fairly good characteristics, but a high price for the material;
• Penoplex 45- the highest sheet density. It is used in the construction of highways, airport runways. This type of penoplex is resistant to even the most critical temperatures.

NOTE!

For outdoor installation work on building insulation, it is better to use wall foam.... It is economical in terms of price and has excellent performance.

Technology of wall insulation with foam from the outside - what elements does the thermal insulation cake consist of?

To insulate the outer walls, the following order of placement of thermal insulation layers is applied:

• Glue, it is applied to a wall that is dry and cleaned of various kinds of dirt and irregularities in advance;
• Insulation, which is additionally attached to the wall with special dowels, fungi. This makes it possible for the sheet to lie tightly on the wall surface without creating heat bridges;
• After fixing the penoplex, it must be protected from ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, a layer of reinforced putty is applied using a soft mesh. If finishing with siding is planned, then the installation of a waterproofing membrane is recommended;
• Decorative finishing, creates an additional layer of protection and gives an aesthetic appearance to the building.

Wall cake

How to calculate the thickness of the foam for high-quality insulation?

Before proceeding with the calculation of the thickness of the foam sheet, you need to know what material the walls of the house are made of. Any material has its own thermal conductivity properties, so each wall needs its own thickness of insulation material.

What is the thickness of the penoplex to choose for wall insulation? Formula for calculating the thickness of penoplex :

Р (design thickness, m) = R (heat transfer resistance) * k (0.028 W / (m2 * ° С).

An example of calculating insulation

Wall surface preparation

Before starting the installation work on placing the thermal insulation on the outer wall, work on cleaning and surface treatment is necessarily carried out... All irregularities are completely removed, then with the help of putty and other repair materials, all flaws in the wall surface are corrected, namely:

• cracks;
• chips;
• holes.

After that, the surface is treated with special solutions that prevent the development of fungi and mold. After the wall has completely dried, an adhesive composition is applied to which the insulation is fixed.

Wall surface preparation

Preparation of the battens - step by step installation

To make the lathing, you need to decide on the material from which it will be made:

• aluminum;
• wood.

Wood is more environmentally friendly, but more complex in terms of installation. The aluminum frame is much more convenient and practical. Let's go directly to the installation of the lathing:

• The first step is to clean and prepare the surface for the future crate.
• At the second stage, you will need certain tools to attach the frame to the prepared wall.
• The third step is to mark over the entire surface where the sheathing frame will be installed.
• After all the preparatory work, you can proceed to the installation of the lathing elements according to the marked marks.

Preparing the lathing

Methods for attaching penoplex to the wall, the most optimal method

For installing foam sheets as insulation for aerated concrete and other types of walls, several fastening methods are used:

• EPPS is attached to special glue or mastic;
• Application of special polyurethane foam;
• Fastening the foam with dowels.

Each of the options has its own characteristics. Experienced builders use several methods at the same time to better fix the foam.... For example, the use of glue, and on top of the additional fixation with dowels.

Fixing with dowels

Fastening with polyurethane foam

Insulation of walls from the outside with penoplex with siding

It is necessary to carry out work on the insulation of external walls following certain rules:

• First. Necessarily carry out preliminary preparatory work with the surface, the wall must be flawless and treated with antifungal agents;
• The second step is installation of a basement profile on which the penoplex will be installed... These manipulations are necessary for an even layer of future insulation, this will provide additional protection against harmful factors.
• The next stage is the installation of foam boards so that there is a gap of 2 millimeters between the sheets.
• After installing the foam boards, they must be fixed, for this, special dowels or adhesive mixture are used, with which the wall surface and foam sheets are pre-processed.
• The last stage is decorative processing or siding of the facade.

Laying slabs

Penoplex for siding

Fill the joints with polyurethane foam

Insulation of external walls with foam is possible due to the lightness of the material and installation work. After the completion of the repair, subject to technical nuances, you will receive additional insulation and insulation from many unpleasant external factors. Good luck with the renovation.

Useful video

Do-it-yourself foam insulation:

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