A terrace is a platform attached to a house or standing separately. It usually resembles a large porch adjacent to the wall at the entrance to the house. In the southern regions, terraces are usually open. In the middle zone they are covered with awnings or awnings. The terrace design can be initially included in the house construction plan and built on the same foundation. But, if the house already exists, adding a terrace to it will not be difficult for anyone home handyman. Let's talk about what basic terrace designs exist and how to build them yourself.
Before you start building a terrace, you should carry out the design and decide which design option to give preference to.
The most simple designs terraces are made at ground level. These are areas paved with paving slabs, paving stones or clinker. Paving is carried out on a gravel-sand cushion laid in a pre-arranged excavation in the ground, 20-30 cm high.
On a gravel dump, you can also build a wooden terrace with a deck made of boards or composite decking. Placed on top of the fill wooden blocks or steel profiles acting as joists. Wooden support beams are mounted on them. Flooring boards are fixed on top.
Terraces raised above ground level are more complex in design. Moreover, they can be raised either by 15-20 cm or by 2-3 m (second floor level). In this case, you cannot do without a foundation. Such a terrace rests on reinforced concrete slabs, blocks or piles, playing the role of a monolithic, columnar or pile foundation. An example of a raised terrace: a platform in the form reinforced concrete slab, lined with ceramics or porcelain stoneware. When building a wooden raised terrace, they fix it on the selected foundation (concrete columns, slabs, piles). wooden joists, which are sheathed on top with edged or decking boards (decking).
We will provide you with several options for constructing a terrace, presented in the form of informational master classes.
Option 1. Terrace paved with clinker
This version of the terrace is built on a compacted sand cushion at ground level. The clinker tiles from which the flooring is laid make it possible to form curved lines of the site. To clearly define the boundaries of the terrace, fences are installed along its perimeter. For example, small wooden posts impregnated with antiseptics.
The work is carried out as follows:
1. Clear the soil where the paved terrace is installed. Remove stones, snags, remove the top layer of soil, 20 cm thick.
2. Sand is poured into the resulting recess in a layer of 15 cm.
3. Along the intended border of the area, dig a trench with dimensions of 70x70 cm (depth, width). A layer of gravel or sand, 15-20 cm high, is poured onto the bottom of the trench. It is necessary for better drainage of water in the area where the fencing posts are installed.
4. Two rows of wooden posts (on the inside and outside) are installed in the trench, on the drainage layer. Their verticality is controlled building level. The posts installed at the ends of the fence are fastened with self-tapping screws. This solution provides stronger adhesion of structural elements and does not allow them to shift and fall out of alignment.
The fence has the appearance of a closed “pocket”, which will later be used as a flower bed framing the terrace. If setting up a flower bed is not part of your plans, then the border can be made in one row by installing bricks, ready-made plastic fencing, etc. in the trench.
5. To prevent soil from being washed out of the future flower bed, a layer of roofing material is placed inside the enclosing “pocket”, placing it on the walls of the posts. The roofing material is laid to the height of the planned level of backfilling with soil. At several points, the waterproofing layer is secured to the walls of the posts with screws or nails.
6. Pegs are driven into the ground, from the wall of the house to the fence, in increments of 3 m and cords are pulled on them with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 linear meter. In this way, the level of sand backfill is outlined, which must form a slope for the drainage of rainwater from the terrace area.
7. The sand backfill is compacted and leveled to the level of the stretched cords, adding, if necessary, the missing amount of sand.
8. Begin installation of clinker tiles. Each tile is laid on a layer of sand, pressed tightly and tapped on the surface with a rubber hammer.
9. Remaining vacant plots, between the paving and the fence, are covered with large decorative gravel.
10. The seams between the tiles are filled with fine sand using a stiff brush.
11. Excess sand on the surface is washed off with a stream of water from under the hose. The pressure should be small so that the sand does not wash out of the seams.
12. So that rain moisture can flow freely from the paved area, drainage is performed. To do this, a drainage pipe with slots, wrapped in jute fabric, is laid along the fence posts with a slope (so that debris and soil do not get into the slots). To camouflage the surface of the pipe, cover it with gravel.
End of the stacked drainage pipe connect to the pipe storm sewer. The drainage outlet is also connected here through a tee. A gutter with a grate is installed in the desired location.
Option #2. Wooden terrace on gravel
A durable and easy-to-make terrace, built on a gravel backfill, can easily be made from steel profiles (joists), wooden blocks and boards. Since they will practically lie at ground level, for this version of the terrace it is allowed to use only wood from hard, non-rotting species: larch, oak, garapa, teak, merbau, etc. Before use, boards are treated with antiseptics to protect them from moisture, rot, insects, and UV rays.
Progress:
1. At the site of the future site, remove the top layer of soil, 20-30 cm thick.
2. Fill the pit with gravel.
3. Steel profiles are laid on the gravel, forming a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 running meter. The distance between the profiles is about 500-600 mm.
4. Load-bearing beams are attached to the profiles. The distance between the beams is about 600 mm if the thickness of the decking board is 27 mm. With a board thickness of 20 mm, the pitch of the beams will have to be reduced to 400 mm. To additionally protect the beams from moisture, they are laid in places where they come into contact with the profiles. rubber gaskets, cut to the width of the boards.
5. The supporting beams are covered with dark protective fabric (geotextile, for example) to prevent the germination of weeds.
6. Perpendicular load-bearing beams assemble the flooring from boards with gaps of 2-3 m. Spacers are installed between the boards and the protective fabric to prevent moisture from accumulating in the floor space. A compensation gap of 1-2 cm is left between the walls and the flooring.
7. Upon completion of assembly, the boardwalk is covered with antiseptics, coloring impregnations or varnish.
Option #3. Terrace on a columnar foundation
Wooden terrace on a columnar foundation - the traditional and most win-win option. The structure is adjacent to the house and, in fact, forms one whole with it. A columnar foundation is capable of raising the platform by 15-60 cm. At the same time, the ventilated space formed under the flooring promotes effective ventilation of the terrace elements and minimizes the possibility of wood rotting.
Step-by-step construction instructions:
1. To connect the future terrace area with the house, the first beam is fixed horizontally on the wall adjacent to it (at the level of the terrace). A galvanized steel drain is mounted above the upper edge of the beam.
2. Excavations are made in the places where concrete pillars are installed. The columns should be installed in increments of 1.5-2 m. The recesses are made taking into account the desired elevation of the terrace, the height of the columns and the required layer of gravel backfill, 10-15 cm thick.
3. Gravel filling is poured into the recesses, then trapezoidal concrete columns are installed. A metal embedded part for square beams is attached to the top platform of each column.
4. The support beams are placed into the embedded parts on the posts and secured with screws.
5. Platform beams are mounted on top of the support beams, perpendicular to them, at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.
6. Screw the terrace boards to the platform beams, maintaining 2-3 mm gaps between them. The gaps serve to prevent rainwater from accumulating on the deck and allow it to flow freely into the subfloor.
7. If unprepared edged boards, upon completion of installation, the surface of the flooring may appear uneven. Therefore, the floor is leveled with a grinder, bringing all points of the terrace to the same level. After sanding, wood dust is removed and the boards are treated with impregnation - antiseptic or coloring. When using a special decking board, additional surface sanding is not required.
A columnar foundation for a terrace can also be built from flat concrete blocks. A similar option for constructing a terrace is presented in the video:
Option #4. WPC terrace on a pile-screw foundation
Sometimes it is irrational to install a terrace on columnar foundation. For example, with a high occurrence groundwater, on wet and unstable soils. In this case, the soil will swell and push out the concrete pillars. Difficulties in constructing a columnar foundation can also arise in areas with large differences in levels and on slopes. In all these cases, for light buildings, another type of foundation is more successful - a pile-screw foundation. Screw piles make it possible to raise the terrace platform to the desired height (even 2-3 m!), they hold perfectly wood flooring with all necessary furniture. In addition, screwing in screw piles for a terrace occurs within 1 day.
Let's consider the technology for constructing a light WPC terrace on screw piles.
Progress:
1. Determine the installation points of the piles. They are screwed in in increments of 2-3 m, with mandatory installation in the corners of the future site.
2. Screwing in the piles is done using special equipment or manually. When screwing in manually, a metal scrap is inserted into the slots on the upper end of the pile, which serves as a lever. In the process of turning this lever, the pile breaks the soil with its blades and sinks to the required depth (below the freezing level of the soil).
3. The screwed-in piles are cut to the level of the future supporting frame.
4. Cement mortar is poured into each screwed pile to increase its strength and prevent corrosion of the internal cavity.
5. A steel steel is mounted on top of the piles. metal carcass from profile pipes. The frame has the form of a frame with intermediate elements located in increments of 50-60 cm. The finished frame is coated with a primer, paying special attention to the welding areas.
6. Aluminum logs are laid on the piles. Since the corrosion process starts when aluminum comes into contact with the steel of the frame, it is recommended to lay the logs only through rubber gaskets.
7. The decking boards are attached to aluminum joists using clamps that are inserted into the slot of the joist. The terminals allow you to mount boards without using self-tapping screws and the need to drill holes in them. If the aluminum profile used does not allow the installation of terminals, the decking boards are fastened traditionally - using self-tapping screws.
8. After assembling the composite decking, an enclosing aluminum profile is installed at the ends of the decking. Now a terrace made of composite decking is almost indistinguishable from an expensive wooden structure!
How the work of installing a terrace on screw piles is carried out is shown in the video:
A veranda is an extension to a house, built during the construction of the main structure or subsequently. This extension cannot be considered separate building, this is part of the house. However, for the construction of a veranda it is necessary to obtain permission and, after completion of the work, to re-register the house. This requirement applies to verandas attached to permanent buildings, and it is associated with an increase in the area of the house.
There are two rules that must be followed when constructing a veranda. Firstly, it is erected where the door to the house is located. Therefore, they are attached to the front or end side of the main building, but in such a way that the entrance door to the house opens inside the veranda and it is possible to enter the house only through it. In addition to increasing the area, the owner of the house also receives additional protection front door. Secondly, it must match the style of the house, form a single ensemble with it, and not look like an ugly spot against the background of the architecture of the house. Based on this rule, materials for the construction of an extension are selected and its optimal size. Its length should be equal to the length of the side of the house to which it is attached, and its width should be at least 2.5 m. Otherwise, the extension will look either bulky or disproportionately small. There are no other rules for the construction of verandas. They can be L-shaped, have several corners, or be semicircular.
There are open and closed verandas. At the outbuildings open type there is no upper part of the wall from the fence to the roof; closed verandas are distinguished by glazing of the space free from the walls. Depending on the design, the glazed space in the extension may dominate. A type of closed veranda - French - has continuous glazing; this is a type of extension with completely glass walls.
Open verandas are a combination of a seating area and a wide porch, closed verandas are a summer dining area and an additional hallway.
Let's consider the stages of adding a closed frame veranda to a house made of timber.
Construction of the veranda foundation
The foundation of the veranda being built should not come into contact with the foundation of the house, even if they are being built simultaneously. The distance between foundations should be about 10-15 mm. The weight of the extension is much less than the weight of the house and the foundations will behave differently under load. This technical gap must be filled with an elastic gasket to compensate for shrinkage and movement of the foundations. You can use mineral wool or polystyrene foam as a gasket.
To build a frame closed veranda, a columnar foundation will be sufficient:
- In the corners of the future veranda, holes are dug for pillars. If the veranda is long enough, you should dig several holes in addition to the corner ones. The depth of the pits is about 1 meter. The bottom of each pit is filled with a layer of crushed stone about 100 mm high, this layer is compacted, a layer of sand of the same height is poured, and this is also compacted.
- The simplest wooden formwork, knocked down from the remains of a board, is installed in the pits, and concrete is poured into it. You can use two methods for erecting foundation columns: raise the formwork to a height of 200-250 mm above ground level and fill it completely with concrete, or pour concrete only to ground level (in this case, the formwork should not protrude above the ground). In both cases, the concrete base is carefully leveled horizontally and vertically between the pillars.
- When installing concrete base to ground level, after it is leveled and hardened, brick columns are laid out to the required height.
- Pillars for waterproofing are treated with hot bitumen.
- To drain groundwater, a drainage channel is dug along the concrete pillars with a slope from the veranda. The soil is selected to a depth of about 25 mm with a channel width of about 1000 mm. The channel is filled with expanded clay or small crushed stone, covered with a layer of geotextile on top as protection from clay particles and debris, and filled with soil. Another inexpensive option drainage channel - laying a perforated plastic pipe in a trench covered with geotextiles.
- The height of the foundation columns is calculated so that the floor of the veranda is approximately 250 mm below the floor level in the house. This is done so that the height of the veranda is equal to the height of the rooms in the house, and its roof extends under the overhang of the roof of the house.
Important! Experts recommend attaching verandas to timber houses only after the shrinkage processes have completed. This usually takes two to three years. When constructing a veranda before the completion of shrinkage processes, it is recommended to use a tongue-and-groove system to connect it to the house. This will avoid skewing the walls of the veranda.
Construction of the frame
Let's start building the timber frame. We use 120x120 mm timber; before work begins, it is treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting impregnation for wood. Anti-capillary waterproofing will be provided by wrapping the timber immediately before laying with sheets of roofing material.
We make the lower harness double, for reliability. In the corners, the timber is connected “half-tree”. We will also cut half-wood logs into the upper part of the lower trim, and we will lay the floor on them. Attaching the bottom frame to the columnar foundation depends on the material of the columns. Studs Ø14 mm can be pre-concreted into concrete columns, the strapping beams can be placed on the studs and secured with nuts. The frame can be attached to brick columns with anchor bolts or studs. The fastening points must be treated with an anti-corrosion compound, but this will not protect the timber from the formation of condensation at the fastening points and the gradual rotting of the wood.
The next step is to install the purlin - a horizontal beam on which the rafters will rest. The slope of the veranda must extend under the main roof, so we calculate the height of the purlin mounting based on the thickness of the roof ( roofing pie) extension and half the thickness of the rafters in the case of “half-tree” fastening. The purlin can be secured to the wall of the house with anchor bolts.
There are several ways to install vertical posts of a frame structure. This can be cutting down “half a tree”, complete cutting down ½ thickness top beam V bottom harness or the tongue-and-groove method with a side of 50 mm. Additionally, the racks are secured with galvanized two-millimeter steel angles, staples or nails. We calculate the distance between the posts based on the width of the purchased frames for glazing the veranda.
The height of the racks is determined by their location in the structure of the extension - the racks near the wall of the house are higher (the reference point is the height of the purlin attachment), this is necessary for the construction of the roof slope. When calculating the height of the racks, do not forget about the depth of the groove or cutting made. We need a roof slope of 12%, this is a requirement for correct installation soft tiles.
The top trim is made in a similar way. The rafter beams rest on one end of the purlin fixed along the wall of the house, and the other on the top frame.
The rigidity of the entire structure is ensured by the jibs, which we nail to the bottom and top of all racks. We install the cross members between the racks, which we need to install the frames and fasten the sheathing, using corners.
Roof structure
According to tradition, the roof of the veranda is made pitched and flatter than the roof of the house. We remember that the extension should be harmoniously combined with the house, and we use the same materials for its roof that were used to construct the roof of the house.
We make the sheathing for the soft tiles from edged boards. We check the humidity of the board, it should not exceed 20%. First, we attach the cornice board and carefully align it horizontally. We make grooves on the cornice board for attaching the gutter holders. Our sheathing boards will protrude 150 mm beyond the side posts. We treat all wooden parts of the roof with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
We lay a waterproofing sheet on the sheathing from bottom to top. We make overlaps in the longitudinal and transverse directions. We nail the canvas with galvanized nails, their feature is a wide head. Bitumen mastic we go through the places where the canvas is laid overlapping.
According to the instructions, we reinforce the roof overhangs with cornice and end metal strips. We nail them with roofing nails. We lay soft tiles from the purlin downwards. We start in the center of the roof, moving to the right and left. We take shingles from different packs, our task is to obtain an abstract pattern on the roof. Protective film Remove each shingle before installation. We fasten the shingles with galvanized nails, making sure that the head of the nail does not damage the tiles. In places where there is no self-adhesive layer, we coat this place with bitumen mastic.
Flooring, finishing and glazing
We want to lay a warm floor on the veranda. To do this, we lay out unedged boards rough floor, we attach a beam of 50x50 mm and a pitch of 500 mm to it. Place penoplex in the resulting cells and foam polyurethane foam those gaps that remain. We lay the penoplex in such a way that there is a gap of 10 mm to the finished floor. So we will solve the issue with natural ventilation. Before laying the finished floor, we cover the timber and penoplex with a water-repellent film and secure it with metallized tape. We lay a finished floor from the floorboard on top and cover it with colored polyurethane varnish in two layers.
We line the walls of the veranda from the outside with clapboard. Having secured the lining, we lay it on the inside waterproofing film. Then we lay penoplex, and fill the remaining gaps with polyurethane foam. We also line the walls inside the veranda with clapboard, and do not forget to lay plastic film.
We install window blocks into the prepared openings and fasten them with nails. We foam all the remaining gaps, after hardening, cut off the foam and decorate the windows with platbands. We use triple-glazed window units.
Don’t forget to hem the ceiling and hang the front door onto the veranda.
Interior decoration of the veranda
We cover the lining on the walls with colored polyurethane matte varnish in the same color scheme, like the floor, but lighter. We paint the trim in a contrasting color, and paint the ceiling with white paint. We select furniture and lamps based on available capabilities.
You now know how to build a veranda at your dacha with your own hands, and almost anyone can do it. Its construction does not require a special tool; you will need ordinary materials and ordinary tools. Drawing up a project is also not particularly difficult. Just don’t forget that you will need to coordinate this project with the district architect.
Many owners of individual homes often think about new extensions. After all, when you yourself are the owner of the dacha or personal plot, you definitely want to do something exclusive and as comfortable as possible. Let's consider one of the most common options for extensions - a veranda. At the same time, we will analyze the methods of constructing it with our own hands.
The need for a veranda. Functions
The need for a veranda for your own home is obvious, because it is a place where it is easy to gather the whole family for a summer barbecue dinner, and at the same time hide from the evening rain and watch its threads through the large windows. But at the same time, I want to be able to stay warm from the autumn wind while on the veranda. It is often assumed that some kind of greenhouse will be placed inside such an extension. Hence the functions that this building should have:
- good roof, preferably transparent or matte,
- huge windows,
- warm walls,
- large space,
- close connection with home.
A similar extension to a house is sometimes also called a terrace.
Design of possible options with photos
For clarity, we present several options for an attached veranda. Here, for example, is the design of a simple summer structure associated with a house.
A simple open veranda does not protect against the cold
Here we see classic version: the roof of a residential building is initially extended, then the overhanging edge is supported on pillars, after which the floor is paved. The open veranda is ready. However, in the fall, as in the photo, inside such a space will be very cold and uncomfortable.
It's another matter when the veranda is covered with glass. Then the wind will not blow into it. Here is a version of a similar design.
A veranda with glass walls in the form of windows provides good protection from the wind.
Here the columns are already capital, made of brickwork, and the area between the columns is covered with huge windows, which simultaneously provides aesthetics, protection from the wind, and excellent visibility.
An even more reliable option in terms of heat is a permanent veranda.
The building in this case is more like a room in a house
Here the terrace is part of the house. The degree of glazing is also high, but there are also solid walls and warm floors, powered by heating the house or from electric current. Although there is still a feeling of the presence of the surrounding world.
How to build it yourself: step-by-step instructions
Project and drawing
We start with design. It is necessary at this stage to decide on the size of the veranda. The width of the building is usually taken to be no more than 3 m, otherwise the terrace will be too bulky. But as for the length, the owners must decide for themselves whether to extend the veranda over the entire house or not. Most often, a summer room is attached to only half or a third of the building.
- Foundation. For the veranda the most a good option is columnar. In this case, they simply put several metal or asbestos pipes into the project, which will be dug into the ground standing to the depth of soil freezing. Their insides will have to be concreted with reinforcing rods. It is advisable to connect the protruding pipe heads with a grillage - a concreted tape around the perimeter.
- Walls. IN this issue There is a unanimous opinion: it is better to use the same material from which the house is built, because each type of building element has its own degree of expansion. For example, a wooden veranda may become slightly deformed over time and “press” on brick house. If the hut is made of logs, then a terrace made of boards will come in handy.
- Roof. Usually it is single-pitched. There is room for design thought here. Most often done transparent roof, for example, from colored polycarbonate. You can use thick glass, but it is enough to simply extend the roof of the house, be it slate or tiles. The main thing is to maintain the required slope. Typically, the slope of the veranda roof is less than that of the roof slopes of the house, since the width of the extension is small. A large pitch angle of the veranda roof will lower its front part too much.
We will talk in more detail about choosing the appropriate components at each stage of construction in the process of describing the general step-by-step instructions. Having decided on the materials and dimensions, they make a drawing or sketch.
Typical diagram of a house veranda
The figure shows the dimensions of the future building, as well as important dimensions, for example, the distances between connecting elements, roof slope, etc.
Necessary materials and calculations with detailed examples
As an example, we will write down instructions for constructing a wooden frame of a lean-to veranda 3 meters long and 2 meters wide. Let us take the height of such an extension to be 2 m directly next to the house and 1.7 m from the front side.
To build such a veranda we will use the following components:
- wooden beams 100 mm x 100 mm with a total length of 42 m,
- logs in the form of wooden beams 50 mm x 100 mm long, each 3 m (with a margin) - 4 pieces (for 3 meters of a building, according to building codes, 4 roof supports are enough),
- edged boards 20 mm thick for walls, board dimensions: 200 mm x 3 m, 200 mm x 2 m, their total area is 10 m 2,
- boards for roof sheathing 25 mm thick, with dimensions 150 mm x 3 m, total area 4.5 m 2,
- floor boards with an area of 2 m x 3 m, that is, an area of 6 m 2, board size: 30 mm x 250 mm x 2 m,
- nails approximately 2 kg.
- metal or asbestos pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for a foundation 1.5 m long - 6 pieces (1 piece for each meter of length of the building is quite sufficient according to building codes),
- polyethylene with an area of approximately 1 m2 (for 6 pipes),
- mastic for coating pipe ends - 1 bucket,
- fittings with a diameter of 8 mm - 12 rods (2 per pipe) 1.5 m each (according to the length of the pipes),
- cement 15 kg,
- sand 45 kg.
We will show how the materials were calculated.
To fill the insides of pipes with a diameter of 100 mm inserted into the ground with concrete, you will need a little cement and sand. The total volume is equal to the product of the number of pipes and their volume. The latter is calculated as the product of the cross-sectional area of the pipe and its length: V = 0.1 x 0.1 x 1.5 = 0.015 m3. Here, for simplicity, the cross-sectional area of the pipe is taken as the cross-sectional area of a square of 100 mm x 100 mm.
For six pipes the volume will be as follows: V total. = 6 x 0.015 = 0.09 m3. Let us take the volume of solution we need equal to 0.1 m3. According to building standards, to prepare such a volume it is enough to take 15 kg of cement and 45 kg of sand.
Let's also count lumber. Beams 100 mm x 100 mm are needed as connecting elements of the frame. We will have three horizontal straps, namely the lower perimeter at floor level, the window sill perimeter, and the same at the roof level. We will also have vertical racks, according to the number of pipes, 6 pieces of 2 m in height are enough. Totally, summing everything up, we get the total length of the beams 100 mm x 100 mm: L = (2 m + 3 m + 2 m + 3 m) x 3 + 2 m x 6 = 42 m.
For walls with a standard height of 1 meter for verandas, you will need the number of boards that will cover the area, equal to the product the perimeter of the building to a height of 1 m: S = (2 m + 3 m + 2 m + 3 m) x 1 = 10 m 2.
Boards for sheathing under the roofing will be installed with slots equal to their width. Therefore, half the approximate area is enough roofing covering. The latter is approximately 3 m x 3 m = 9 m 2 (taking into account the roof slope). This means that 4.5 m2 is enough for us.
Construction tools
We will need the following tools for work:
- hacksaw,
- hammer,
- axe,
- shovel for mixing the solution,
- bayonet shovel for digging.
How to build: step by step instructions
- First you need to mark the future veranda. Relying on our own drawing, we find the installation points for the foundation pipes. The maximum possible step between such supports is 2 m. It is advisable to step back at least 4 cm from the foundation of the house and also determine the location of the holes for supports along the building.
- The depth of the cavities for foundation pipes should be about 1.5 m, depending on the region. The holes themselves can be dug with a shovel. There is an option to drill them with a universal hand drill. It is sold in many hardware supermarkets. After preparing the cavities, they are filled with solid polyethylene for waterproofing, and then metal or asbestos-cement pipes are inserted into them. After that, two or three rods of reinforcement are pushed inside each such element and concrete is poured. The top end of each pipe should protrude at least 20 cm above the ground.
- After the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the floor. But first you need to either make a grillage - connect all the pipes with a concrete strip, or at least add some total area future veranda with crushed stone. If you do not carry out the described manipulations, debris will subsequently accumulate under the floor of the terrace, and the covering itself will be cold for the owners’ feet.
- Let's consider the option without a grillage, when the entire planned area of the veranda is covered with crushed stone. It's both cheaper and simpler. After filling our plot of land with stones, they need to be leveled with a shovel. Next, it is necessary to lay pipes protruding from the ground, coated with mastic. wooden beams with a profile of 100 mm x 100 mm, fastening them in the corners with standard locks. These locks, made with an axe, are also called cuts or notches. Their options are shown in the diagram below. The future floor will rest on the beams described.
The diagram shows different types of locks for connecting beams; we use the simplest ones
- The next step is to build the frame of the veranda. Vertical racks We also make it from beams with a section of 100 mm x 100 mm. We fasten them to the perimeter of the base. Lay it out after installing the verticals flooring edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm. We nail the floorboards to the beams.
- We install window sill beams at a height of 1 m, simultaneously fastening the verticals with them. The profile of window sill bars can also be 100 mm x 100 mm. To connect the beams in all cases we use the classic lock discussed above. We also use screws or nails. You can strengthen all connections with metal corners. After installing the window sill beams on the outside of the veranda, we nail the edged boards to close the space from the floor to the window sill beams.
- We make the top trim of the future veranda. To do this, we connect the verticals with the same beams, then we rest standard logs on this structure for mounting the roof.
Important to remember! Since in a typical veranda it is used pitched roof, the front verticals should eventually be lower than the rear ones adjacent to the house by about 30 cm. If we did not take this into account right away, you can take a hacksaw and saw down the standing beams.
The wooden frame of the veranda, in this case it is made close to the house, part of the frame rests on the foundation of the house, this option is acceptable
- To erect a terrace roof, sheathing is nailed onto the logs. Then sheets of roofing material are fixed and the same hard material is laid that decorates the slopes of the common roof. There are also other options here that will provide exclusive architectural form. For example, frames can be mounted on joists and “filled” with especially strong glass. This solution will provide additional heating of the room from the sun, even in winter.
On a note. IN last years Another possibility has become widespread: it is enough to screw sheets of polycarbonate used for the construction of greenhouses to the joists with self-tapping screws. It is very convenient and practical material. It bends well, which allows you to create arched structures. With its help it is easy to create the most unusual roof for your veranda.
- We may not fill the space for windows if we have enough open veranda. If it is decided that the building will be closed, it is enough to install ordinary glazed wooden frames. At the same time, window frames can be “equipped” with multi-colored glass, resulting in exclusive stained glass windows that are noticeable even from afar. Similar example can be examined in this photo.
Stained glass windows in the design of a wooden veranda, the glass here is made to order
- Special attention must be paid to installing the door. The opening for this element is initially laid into the project on the side of the terrace. Under no circumstances should you install the veranda door directly opposite the common entrance, otherwise drafts will not be avoided!
Final finishing of floors, walls and ceilings. How to insulate and with what
In our example Bottom part verandas are finished with boards. Such walls can be easily insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam. You just need to glue the slabs of material assembly adhesive. Outside, plank walls can easily be “covered” with siding; it is screwed to the wood with self-tapping screws. Insulation material the inside can be finished with aesthetic panels, for example, made of plastic, for additional insulation.
There is an option to cover the space between the window sill beams and the floor instead of boards with sandwich panels or OSB boards. In the latter case, it is sufficient to use sawdust enclosed in polyethylene as an insulating material. Plastic bags with sawdust are attached with metal mounting tape and nails. And the inner surface, after securing plastic bags with sawdust, is finished with plywood. There are no boundaries for design ideas; the final decision depends entirely on the owner.
In conclusion, we suggest watching a video on the topic.
Video: How to attach a wooden summer terrace to your house
We have provided design options and detailed instructions for the construction of a veranda, which is a continuation of a private house. It remains to add one last note: when inventing an unusual, stylish veranda, do not forget about the building codes and regulations, and also try to make sure that even at the design stage your veranda does not spoil the overall picture of the house.
Competent construction of extensions for various purposes can not only expand the living area of the house, but also improve its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. The construction of a veranda adjacent to the house, regardless of the type of structure, requires careful development of the project, with the determination of materials and construction technology.
Proper execution and approval of project documentation by government authorities will not only insure against problems with the law, but will also help to draw up a plan and estimate for the structure.
Design
A typical veranda is covered with a roof frame structure, built on a strip or columnar foundation, with glass or half-glass walls. The statement that the veranda should be built from the same materials as the main building, with the emergence of new styles and fashion trends in architecture, has lost its relevance.
In the photos below - ready-made solutions verandas attached to the house, with different principles of compatibility. In some cases, the new extension is made of the same materials and is completely combined with the house; in others, the new addition is combined with the preservation of common elements - roof, beams, etc.
There are also projects in which the original design of the extension introduces a new architectural touch, updating the exterior.
When choosing materials and construction technologies, you should also take into account the parameters of proper ventilation, moisture resistance and thermal insulation. With full glazing, it is necessary to provide opening segments for ventilation.
If you are building an open veranda, or, as it is also called, a summer terrace, you need to take care of the frost-resistant lining and the slope of the floor towards the site.
Designs with removable frames are optimal for year-round use. Installation of large sliding doors will also allow the building to be used in a dual-mode version.
In a typical project, the veranda area is rectangular and ranges from 10 to 15 sq.m. For smaller areas it will be too cramped; for larger ones, additional reinforcement for the roof will be required. Polygonal and semicircular foundations are also possible.
According to its location, the veranda can be corner, end or facade. An original solution can be considered the construction of a terrace along the entire perimeter of the house, which can have glazed, open and closed areas for various purposes: they can accommodate a hallway, a recreation area, and a large storage room.
Foundation
The foundation of terraces and verandas attached to the house must fit tightly to the main building, but at the same time have independent supports.
A strip foundation is suitable for large and heavy structures; in all other cases, a columnar foundation can be erected. When pouring concrete, you need to leave a gap of 3-4 cm with the main wall, which will subsequently be filled with waterproofing foam.
At the first stage of preparation for construction, the soil is cleaned and compacted. Then, for the pillars, corner holes are dug along the depth of the house foundation (about 1 m on average), a cushion is made of crushed stone, gravel and sand, onto which concrete is poured.
After setting, asbestos or asbestos supports are inserted metal pipes. Can also be used concrete pillars or brick. The same method is used to lay high piles for buildings adjacent to the second floor level.
Depending on the area and weight of the terrace, intermediate posts may be needed, installed every half meter.
For the foundation belt type a trench of 30-50 cm is broken, the formwork is placed 15-20 cm higher. Metal reinforcement bars or reinforcement mesh. Concrete is poured onto a layer of crushed stone and sand.
Wood frame
The frame is assembled from beams or logs with a width of at least 12 cm, which are covered with a waterproofing layer. For the strength of horizontal knitting, experts recommend using fastenings in the foot, the surface of the connection will be at an angle. Vertical posts are secured with diagonal interceptions.
At the final stage wooden frame covered with rafters for the roof. Can be used for cladding plywood panels, chipboards, etc.
Construction of a wooden veranda is the best budget solution in terms of prices for materials, but when choosing this type of construction you need a professional approach and knowledge of the nuances of construction from wooden beam.
Other materials for verandas
The foam block structure is erected on strip foundation. This type of masonry is easy to do yourself. The laying is carried out using a special glue, with the seams bandaged for strength.
When finishing, an internal and external waterproofing layer, plasterboard finishing, wooden shields, moisture-resistant wallpaper and paints. The outer surface can be lined with ventilated facades.
Construction of polycarbonate structure, modern and attractive option. This material goes well in buildings with wooden and brick frames.
For a building that consists entirely of bicarbonate panels, you do not need a foundation. The earth can simply be compacted and covered with paving slabs.
The structure is created using aluminum profiles, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of ventilation and water drainage. Polycarbonate panels and frames of various types can be tailored to specific needs for lighting and thermal insulation.
Before you attach a veranda to the house, you need to decide on the functions that it will perform. In addition to the necessary drainage and ventilation systems in any case, proper connection to the permanent structure and roof structure, the schedule for using this part of the house is important.
The design and construction of summer verandas differs from the requirements for premises with year-round use. It is also important to note that any extension will require the same care and updating as permanent buildings.
Photo of the veranda attached to the house
By building a veranda, you can make your home more beautiful and unique, as well as expand it usable area. But how to build it? The easiest way is to add a veranda to the housing project even before the start of construction - in this case it will be associated with the house common foundation and it will turn out stronger.
However, if such an opportunity was missed, do not be upset, since it is absolutely possible to attach a veranda to the house after its construction is completed - you just need to study the technology of work and learn all the subtleties of the process. How to build a veranda correctly?
Veranda design
The first stage of any construction is the creation of a project; This stage is also important when constructing such a relatively simple structure as a terrace. Compose detailed plan construction can be done independently, using various software. However, if you do not have special education, it is better to contact a design office for professional help.
Plan of walls and partitions of the first floor
Design can be divided into several separate stages.
Choosing a veranda type
A veranda attached to the house can have the most different type. All such structures can be divided into two types:
You can choose any option - the main thing is that the terrace fits organically into the overall exterior of the house and becomes its logical continuation.
Thematic material:
The form of construction also varies. The simplest and affordable option- This is an ordinary rectangular veranda. A rounded, curved design will be more complex. You can also add polygonal terraces to the house, running along one or several walls or even forming a whole belt around the entire house. It is not at all necessary to build a veranda near the front door, although this seems to be the most obvious solution.
Material selection
As a rule, the veranda is built from the same material from which the house is made: to a brick structure, to wooden house It’s better to build a veranda made of logs or timber. However, you should not rely on design compliance alone. To others important criterion when working, is how difficult the construction of the veranda will be.
The easiest way to build - an object made from it can be easily processed, the material allows you to easily implement many design ideas. You can also simply and inexpensively create a structure from modern materials: WPC, PVC, polycarbonate. To attach a concrete or metal veranda to a house, you will most likely need the help of specialists in various fields.
Construction site analysis
One of the most important tasks when designing a terrace is studying the technical nuances and bringing the characteristics of the future building into line with the conditions of the area. Several factors will affect the quality and durability of the structure:
- soil type;
- the condition of the building wall to which the veranda is planned to be attached;
- climatic conditions in the region.
The maximum mass of the terrace, the complexity of the foundation, the need for insulation, and much more depend on these parameters.
Documents receiving
This point is very easy to lose sight of if all the work on building a terrace from start to finish is done independently. Veranda project and other technical documentation will help you obtain permission to change the design and technical certificate of the house. By law, construction approval is required by the following authorities:
- local government;
- fire safety authorities;
- sanitary and epidemiological station.
It seems that since the built house and land are your property, you are free to do whatever you want with them - including adding a terrace. However, without all the permits and a documented project, the terrace will be legally considered an illegal extension to the house. This will make it impossible to sell the object, donate it, or exchange it; It will also be impossible to get a bank loan using the house as collateral.
Construction of the foundation
Once the project is completed and all permits have been obtained, the actual construction work can begin. And their first part is the construction of a high-quality and reliable foundation. How to do this part of the building correctly?
The main requirement is this: the base of a closed or open veranda attached to a private house must correspond in its technical specifications the foundation of the main building.
First of all, its depth should be the same. If this requirement is not met, when the air temperature drops due to uneven deformation of materials, parts of the house will separate, and a gap will appear between the terrace and the wall. The new foundation is connected to the old one different ways
- depending on how long ago the house was built. A new house is usually in the process of shrinking, so a rigid connection will lead to less destruction robust construction
- If the house has been standing for a long time and the shrinkage has completed, a rigid connection of the terrace to it is allowed. In this case, a gasket made of waterproofing material(for example, roofing felt) and treatment of the joint with polyurethane foam.
It will not be possible to make the foundation unified if the terrace was not conceived at the design stage of the house, but nevertheless, you should try to combine the bases of the veranda and the house as efficiently as possible.
The type of foundation is selected depending on the design features of the terrace, primarily its mass, as well as the type of soil.
Formation of flooring
Whether the planned veranda is closed or its main attribute is complete openness, in any case the floor of the terrace must be durable, warm and protected from destruction.
Most often, even if the rest of the veranda is made of concrete or brick, the floor is made of wood. This is due to both practical and aesthetic properties of this material:
- wood prevents heat from escaping into the ground;
- it is durable;
- wood is completely safe for health;
- such a floor practically does not require decorative processing, since the material itself is very beautiful - you just need to cover it with a layer of varnish to protect it from damage.
The floor on the finished foundation is built in the following order.
All wooden elements of the veranda must be treated with antiseptic and antibacterial impregnations.
This will protect the terrace floor from rotting, damage by fungi and other microorganisms, significantly extending its service life.
Walling Walls, unlike the floor, are an optional attribute attached verandas
. Instead of them, it is quite possible to build a regular one. The veranda may not have any fencing at all - some projects for adding a veranda to the house involve the use of plants and hedges as a fence. If you plan to make full-fledged railings, walls and roofing, the next stage after the formation of the floor will be the construction of the frame.
- A lightweight wooden frame is made like this.
- Along the perimeter of the floor, beams are laid, connected to each other with a direct lock. Grooves should be made on them for attaching the racks in increments of about 50 cm.
- The racks are fixed in the grooves using metal brackets.
- The top of the racks is tied with timber.
We make rafters for the roof. It is built in a similar way lightweight metal frame. If the foundation allows, the frame can be made of concrete or brick. Thickness designs may differ from the characteristics of the walls of the main house. Roof supports must be at least 1.5 bricks thick, fence posts must be 125 mm thick.
Terrace walls can be finished using a variety of materials:
- wooden or plastic lining;
- metal siding;
- beam;
- decorative brick and much more.
The main thing is compliance and appearance Houses.
The walls of the veranda must be connected to the wall of the house in the same way as the foundations of the structures. For this purpose, steel embedded elements are used. They are fixed in the main wall using deep holes, and in the wall structures of the terrace they are laid at the construction stage and secured with cement-sand mortar.
If the veranda is made open, railings are erected instead of walls. They can also be made from wood, metal, WPC, brick or concrete. This type of fence consists of posts, balusters and railings.
Roofing
The roof of the terrace can be removable, but it is better to securely fasten it to the frame if you plan to build a durable veranda. Like the floor, the main part of the roof is made of wood. The reliability and durability of the structure depend on how accurately the construction technology is followed.
The main terrace is rafter system, consisting of wooden beams and sheathing of boards. The purpose of this system is to hold the roofing material in place and withstand external influences - for example, precipitation pressure. Therefore, a lot depends on the quality of the rafters.
First of all, the rafters are treated with antiseptic agents. Next, the following work is done.
After all the main elements of the veranda have been completed, all that remains is to make a few finishing touches - to do interior decoration, carry out electrical wiring and, if necessary, heating, install recreational furniture.
Listed construction works- just a basic part of the technology that any veranda extension requires. The remaining elements are the stairs, decorative elements- are made in accordance with the project. Having built the main parts of the terrace, you can probably easily cope with the additional ones.
Order services from professionals
Don't have time to build yourself? Contact the following organizations.