Do-it-yourself sliding aluminum windows to the balcony. How is the aluminum glazing of the balcony Installing the aluminum profile on the loggia

Are you tired of the noise of renovation coming from the next apartment? Tired of constantly removing snow from the balcony in winter, and dust with poplar fluff in summer? Do you want to make the loggia a room? Then aluminum frames installed on the balcony are the perfect solution. Why exactly are they? We'll find out now.

"Cold" glazing of a balcony with an aluminum profile is carried out according to pre-measured measurements. It uses glass with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm and a white anodized aluminum profile. Its advantages are:

energy saving due to narrower bindings;
ease of installation, available even for a non-professional;
resistance to corrosion;
resistance to mechanical damage (compared to other materials);
the absence of cracks and holes in the closed form guarantees protection from extraneous sounds, dust and precipitation;
the lightness of the design allows you not to create additional reinforcement when glazing the balcony on the extension;
budget: the price of aluminum frames is one of the lowest;
a sliding system (in contrast to a swing system) leaves more usable area that is not blocked by flaps;
ascetic design in the style of minimalism.

This type of glazing is considered a cold option.

There are no perfect designs. This also applies to "cold" aluminum glazing. Its disadvantages:

winter freezing of the mechanisms with the help of which the movement and fixation of the valves is carried out;
low thermal insulation in winter (the difference in temperature outside and on the balcony is no more than 5-7 ° C).

Other types of balcony glazing

For comparison, let's take a look at other types of balcony frames on the market for building materials and structures.

PVC frames

"Warm" glazing is made using a PVC frame and multilayer glass units. The design of the glass unit and the use of rubber seals provide:

high noise insulation;
reliable protection from the cold (hence the name);
no draft.

Among the disadvantages of plastic glazing (which the aluminum glazing of balconies lacks) are:

inability to use on console balconies;
the complexity of the repair;
high cost in comparison with aluminum analogue;
high electrostatics of polyvinyl chloride, which actively attracts dust microparticles;
accumulation of condensation due to the tightness of the frame and, as a result, the need for frequent ventilation;
heavy weight (due to which the PVC frame can only be installed on a reinforced parapet).

Intermediate glazing

This system consists of reinforced PVC profiles, connected by corner elements, and works on the principle of a wardrobe. Glasses with a thickness of 4 to 8 mm are installed in the sliding system profiles containing the reinforcement. Combining the advantages of the two previous options, the intermediate option is devoid of the disadvantages of "cold" glazing ". However, the disadvantage of this design is its heavy weight.

Frame made of wood

The classic way of glazing a balcony, used for a long time. The wooden frame is treated with a fire-resistant and anti-mold composition, which increases its operational characteristics. Thanks to rubber gaskets, the frame fits snugly without gaps to the walls of the loggia. The swivel mechanism allows you to easily ventilate the room. The advantages of a wooden frame include:

environmental friendliness of wood, which does not emit chemically harmful substances into the space;
long service life (up to 50 years) with proper care, which consists in annual varnishing and timely repair;
exquisite eco-design.

Wooden frames have their advantages, but they are more expensive than aluminum ones.

But, along with the advantages, glazing also has significant disadvantages:

wood swells under the influence of moisture, increasing in size; as a result, the flaps do not close well;
high price compared to the installation of an aluminum frame;
the frame can change its linear dimensions over time (dry out or warp);
the installation of such a frame requires certain professional skills; it is difficult for a beginner to cope with it.

Frameless glazing

For glazing a balcony without frames, toughened shock-resistant glasses with a thickness of 7 to 9 mm are used, which move on special plastic hinges. In order to wash the glass, they are moved into an "accordion". The advantages of this type of glazing are as follows:

burglar resistance;
wind and sound insulation;
simplicity and ease of use (the doors are opened and closed with a slight movement of the hand);
Beautiful design;
no obstructions in the form of a frame in the path of sunlight.

Significant disadvantages of frameless glazing make this design imperfect. Let's list them:

absolute transparency - at first glance, this dignity turns into excessive publicity and the inability to hide from prying eyes;
leakage of the structure, which serves as a decorative barrier: such a frame does not provide thermal and sound insulation, moisture can penetrate through it;
the inability to attach a mosquito net makes the balcony vulnerable to insects;
deformation of metal guides due to temperature jumps.

Features of balcony glazing with a take-out

In order to expand the area of the balcony, the level of the floor or window sill can be shifted forward by a segment of up to 35 cm. In the first case, a profile is welded to the base plate along the contour, sheathed from below with metal sheets. The old railings are removed and new ones are installed. At the end of the work, the balcony is cladding outside with clapboard, PVC panels or siding. For such a redevelopment, which increases the load on the facade, you need to issue a permit in the relevant departments.

When carried out along the window sill, the floor level remains the same, and the area at the window sill level increases. Windows with the help of brackets are pushed out towards the street or on the sides. The disadvantages of such glazing is the risk of the balcony collapsing due to non-compliance with technical conditions when its area increases.

Thus, of all types of balcony glazing, the "cold" version with an aluminum frame is one of the most preferable.

It is very important to make a balcony with a take-out in compliance with all safety requirements

The sequence of works for the installation of an aluminum frame

Let's take a closer look at the installation of aluminum frames on the balcony. First you need to prepare the necessary tools for installation.

Instruments

For work on cold glazing, you will need the following tools and materials:

hacksaw for metal;
roulette;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
screws;
screwdriver;
brush seal (Schlegel);
weatherproof silicone sealant;
polyurethane foam;
hex wrench.

Aluminum sliding frame device

The balcony is glazed with an aluminum profile in this order:

dismantle the old frame (if any);
clean the parapet and slabs from debris and cladding fragments;
assemble a frame from fragments;
fix the assembled structure to the parapet using galvanized self-tapping bolts and mounting loops;
install guides for the sash, for which measure the length of the horizontal sides of the balcony opening, transfer the dimensions to the guides and cut them
polish the saw cut with a file;
drill holes in the opening for self-tapping screws with a step of 0.3 m. install the guides with screws. The gap between the outer edge of the frame and the guide should be no more than 5 cm so that the frame does not freeze during the winter season;
install a brush seal along the contour of the flaps;
insert the sash into the upper guide, and then use the rollers into the lower one;
put a steel visor under the mounting hinges, covered with a decorative and protective polymer coating;
connect the visor to the balcony slab using self-tapping screws;
draw a low tide on the polymerized steel strip. Cut it out with roofing scissors;
install the ebb outside the frame;
seal the joints of the ebb and the visor with a weather-resistant silicone sealant;
fill the corners between the frame profile, balcony slabs, walls and parapet with polyurethane foam;
to mount the glazing of blind sashes. To do this, install the clamping strips for a tight joint of the frame with the glass.

Installing a sliding aluminum frame on a balcony is the most acceptable and economical option for balcony glazing. Detailed instructions will help you install it yourself without much hassle.

Sliding windows on the balcony and loggia save space

Readers are often interested in how to remove sliding plastic windows on a balcony or loggia and how to install new ones. The key to answering these questions lies in the knowledge of the installation rules. Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the installation algorithm for one specific example, where an aluminum structure is installed on a loggia. In addition, you will learn about the advantages of sliding windows and can watch the video in this article.

Sliding windows

Installation, adjustment and repair of plastic and aluminum windows is done in almost the same way. That is, the principle of assembly and installation of the structure remains the same, only the material for the frame changes.

Window installation

Making the foundation

We can say that installing a sliding window on a balcony or loggia with your own hands is quite simple, but you must follow certain rules. In this case, we will mount the structure on the loggia, but in the course of the description, I will make remarks on the difference with the installation on the balcony.

We make holes in the fence through the board

We fix the board with dowels with screws to the fence

Regardless of whether we will mount aluminum or PVC, warm or cold profiles, we need a base, and in this case we will use a board of 30-40 mm for this, which will need to be screwed to the fence with dowels. You see that it is not difficult to do this - drill holes through the board and drive the dowels there, which you fix with thick and long screws.

On the balcony, in such cases, a stretcher is made of metal profiles, and the fasteners are carried out not into the board, but into the metal - everything is the same, only the base material changes.

Assembling the aluminum frame

If you have a window made of an aluminum profile, then the frame will have to be assembled at the installation site - it is much more convenient, but the PVC is already assembled and you just have to hang the sashes and insert the double-glazed windows. For assembly, all profiles are numbered, so you just need to fasten them together with the screws that are included in the kit.

But the dimensions of the frame are determined even earlier - in order to make a window. You need to remove them yourself or invite a representative of the company that will manufacture your order.

Tape fasteners will assist in the initial fixation

If the installation takes place on a loggia, then the instruction recommends using a perforated tape for temporary fixation - that is, while you screw this tape to the profile. In order to raise the frame in the opening, plastic adjusting pads are used - they are also used for subframes to clearly set the horizontal.

We lay out the parts of the windowsill

We have already prepared the frames, and you can spread out along the fence and screw the window sill to it - in this case it will be made of parts, but for the balcony you can do with one panel, since the windows there are much smaller. Here you have the opportunity to screw it to the board with self-tapping screws, but in the stretcher, of course, you will need to screw it to the metal.

Ebb installation

In this case, the ebb is installed directly on top of the window sill and in the future it will be pressed by the glazing. But I am actually a supporter of drips that screw directly to the frame - they don't have to be sealed with silicone to prevent wicking.

Assembling frame sections

Now you can install the frame - in our case, since the opening is large enough, it consists of several sections. These sections are screwed through the self-tapping profile to the board, and then twisted together, as shown in the photo above. In the subframe, assembly takes place in a similar way, only you have to screw it to the metal profile.

Fixing the top

Now you need to align the assembled structure and for this we previously screwed on the perforated strips. We apply the level to the profile vertically and drill holes for the dowels in the right places. After fastening the upper part, we fix the sides and blow out the gaps with polyurethane foam.

We fix the visor

We insert the visor over the strips and fasten it to them with self-tapping screws for metal - it is also advisable to blow out the remaining gap at the top with polyurethane foam. If you have a balcony, then the visor is installed with your own hands over the stretcher, but this is more related to the construction of the balcony, and not to the installation of the window.

Small gaps need to be siliconized

Do not blow out all the gaps with polyurethane foam, as it is suitable for gaps of at least 3 mm. Anything smaller you can seal with silicone sealant.

Sash installation

Now all that remains is to insert the flaps - it's easy to do - insert the upper part, slightly press the flap up and insert the lower part. In the same way, insert all the other sliding elements. There is no difference between a balcony and a loggia - only the price differs, but this is due to the size of the structure.

Installing a mosquito net

After assembly, you just need to install a mosquito net, which is also called "anticoshka" and in this case you see a simplified and, therefore, cheaper option. The mosquito is inserted in the same way as the sash and is pressed on the one side by the movable sash, and on the other - by the fixed frame profile.

Horizontal blinds

For protection from the sun, it is very convenient to use horizontal blinds for sliding windows on the balcony and on the loggia. They take up very little space and can be easily fixed to the plastic and aluminum frame.

Maintenance of sliding windows

Window cleaners

Now, let's figure out how to clean sliding windows on the balcony outside and inside:

if you close a balcony or loggia, it means that some part of the sunlight remains inaccessible to your room and you need to use ultraviolet radiation to the maximum;
for this, the glass should be kept clean - even a slight layer of dust will cut off daylight;
for washing windows in such cases, the most common household glass cleaning products are used;
in addition to this (liquid preparations), you will need rubber gloves, a sponge, napkins and slimes, since it is extremely difficult to wash the windows from the outside in such situations;

Here you can see how to clean sliding windows on the balcony and loggia using a slide.

of course, if you live no higher than the second floor, then you can wash the window down the stairs, but even then not always;
in such cases, you can hire a team of washers who go down on slings and perfectly process every centimeter of both glasses and profiles for you, but this is too expensive;
in order to wash the glass from the outside, you can use the slime on the elongated handle - with such a device you can easily reach any centimeter of the surface for cleaning.

Conclusion

I hope you understand how not only the sash on sliding windows is removed, but the entire frame is removed - this happens in the same way as installation, only exactly the opposite. I invite you to discuss this topic in the blog or in the comments.

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Glazing a balcony is one of the most important measures in the process of renovating an apartment. Firstly, it is necessary to insulate housing, because a significant part of the heat comes out through the balcony. Secondly, after installing windows there, you get additional space that can be used for certain residential or business needs. But, before starting work, you need to decide from what material the glazing should be carried out. And one of the most popular options is aluminum windows to the balcony.

Aluminum windows to the balcony

Glazing of a balcony with an aluminum profile with a take-out

Pros and cons of aluminum windows to the balcony

The installation of aluminum windows on the balcony is gaining more and more popularity today. And for those who are just thinking about this, we will give the pros and cons of such glazing. Let's start with what are the advantages of aluminum windows to the balcony.

Availability... Often people give their preference to aluminum windows just because of the low cost. On average, the price for them is 1.5-2 times cheaper than for similar glazing with PVC windows.
Glazing of balconies with aluminum profiles

Aluminum sliding balcony windows
Light weight... Aluminum itself is a very light metal. Accordingly, all structures made of it, including window frames and sashes for the balcony, are not heavy. And due to this property, window structures exert little pressure on the parapet. Therefore, aluminum windows are suitable for installation on balconies in emergency houses. In addition, it is much easier to carry and install.
High sound insulation... Due to the sealed frame and tight closing of the sashes, aluminum glazing will protect your home from extraneous noise from the street.
Balcony with aluminum profile windows

Photo of aluminum balcony windows
Attractive appearance and the possibility of painting aluminum windows in various colors.
Easy to clean- the outer surface of the frames and sashes of aluminum glazing is covered with a water-repellent film. Due to this, the product is less prone to pollution from dust and atmospheric precipitation. Consequently, it is much easier to care for such frames than for wooden structures - you just need to wipe it inside and out with a wet rag every few weeks.
French balcony made of aluminum profile
High strength and durability- aluminum windows, despite their relative lightness and cheapness, are very strong structures. Their service life is measured in three to four decades.

Aluminum windows

Important! For owners of small apartments, it makes sense to consider the option of glazing the balcony with aluminum windows with a perimeter that exceeds that of the parapet. As a result, the useful area of the balcony increases and it can be used to arrange indoor plants in the warm season or as an additional refrigerator in winter.

Option of glazing the balcony with aluminum windows with a perimeter exceeding that of the parapet

Aluminum window arrangement with sliding sash. Most often, it is these structures that are used for glazing balconies.

Section of "warm" and "cold" window aluminum profiles. The first differs from the second by the presence of two glasses with an air gap and a heat-insulating gasket between the outer and inner sides.

Also, when thinking about purchasing aluminum windows for a balcony, you should be aware of their shortcomings. The main disadvantage of such structures is the insufficient degree of thermal insulation. A balcony with aluminum windows, as a rule, will be "cold" - in winter the temperature in it will exceed that on the street by no more than 5-6 ° С.

Sliding cold aluminum frame Framex S22

Provence style balcony

The design of a balcony or loggia in the Provence style is becoming fashionable among our compatriots. They are attracted by discreet grace, French simplicity, natural finishing materials and the presence of vintage elements. For a more detailed study of the issue, we recommend reading this article.

Another disadvantage is that aluminum frames and sashes are installed only on perfectly flat and prepared surfaces. Therefore, before the installation process begins, the parapet will either have to be leveled with a cement mixture, or a wooden board should be placed under the structure and all the glazing elements will be installed on it.

Video - Installing an aluminum balcony frame

Aluminum windows to the balcony - step-by-step installation instructions

Now that you know about all the features, advantages and disadvantages of aluminum windows to the balcony, let's look at how the installation takes place.

Dimensions of a sliding aluminum glazing frame for a typical loggia of a panel house

List of tools

But before starting work, any master needs to stock up on a set of tools. You can familiarize yourself with the list of what you need to install aluminum windows on a balcony from the table below.

Mosquito net on aluminum windows

Table. Installation of aluminum windows on a balcony is a necessary tool.

	Dismantling old glazing elements
	Driving fasteners into dowels, fitting, dismantling old sashes and frames
	Dismantling the window sill and ebb
Wood saw	Splitting the old frame into several parts for easy dismantling
Roulette and level	Measurements and control of evenness vertically and horizontally
Screwdriver	Screwing in self-tapping screws and other fasteners used when installing aluminum windows on a balcony
Screwdriver	Used to loosen or, conversely, tighten the fastener
Drill with a drill for concrete	Making holes in the parapet to secure some parts of the aluminum glazing
Hex wrench	Working with some mechanisms of aluminum windows
Gun with silicone sealant or polyurethane foam	Processing the joints of various glazing elements and sealing gaps that could remain after the installation of aluminum windows on the balcony

Important! It is advisable that the screwdriver has two batteries - while one is working, the other is being charged. Then they change places. Thus, the continuity of the work process is achieved.

Dismantling old glazing - step by step instructions

Before proceeding with the installation of new aluminum windows on the balcony, it is necessary to get rid of the old glazing.

Step 1. The dismantling of the old glazing begins not with breaking the window frames, but with preliminary measurements. Using a tape measure, the length, height and depth of the opening on the balcony are determined. Without these data, it is impossible to choose an aluminum glazing that is suitable in terms of dimensions.

Preliminary measurements

Measuring the width of the ebb

Step 3. The building level is carried out along the upper part of the balcony opening - it is necessary to find out how flat the concrete slab is, whether there are distortions there. Such defects are characteristic of old houses that are in disrepair, and this must be taken into account when installing aluminum windows on a balcony.

The flatness of the concrete slab is checked

Important! In the process of performing all measurements, it makes sense to record the results of the work. Craftsmen working in companies for glazing windows and balconies use standard forms for these purposes, as in the image below. You can adapt a simple piece of paper for your notes.

Standard form for measurement results

Step 4. Only after all measurements have been completed, you can start dismantling the old glazing. Work begins by removing the leaves from the hinges. If they (sash) are in a satisfactory condition, then the process is done carefully, using a screwdriver. But more often the sashes of the old balcony glazing are removed using scrap. Much faster, more efficiently and safer, this work is done in pairs.

When disposing of old window sashes, be careful not to let any parts fall out onto the street. It is also undesirable to break the glasses themselves - there is a risk of getting hurt about them at one time or another.

Step 5. The window sill and ebb tide are pushed on and removed with a crowbar. If they hold too tightly and tightly and do not just dismantle them, then the craftsmen resort to using a hammer and chisel - the latter is driven in between the parapet and the window sill (or ebb) in several places. Then, a scrap is inserted into the cracks formed, the glazing piece is pushed on and removed from the fasteners.

The ebb is removed

Step 6. Then, with a conventional saw, cuts are made at several points on each side of the window frame. This operation greatly facilitates the subsequent process of dismantling the structure, making it possible to remove it in small parts.

Making cuts

Step 7. The sawn parts of the balcony glazing frame are removed from their place and removed to the rest of the construction waste. If necessary, resort to the use of scrap.

Removing sawn frame parts

Step 8. After removing all parts of the old glazing, the opening on the balcony is protected from concrete fragments, individual small parts of the frame or from fasteners. Then small irregularities are smoothed out. All construction waste resulting from the dismantling of the old glazing is disposed of.

Cleaning of working surfaces

Important! Before installing aluminum windows, serious defects and unevenness of the window opening are eliminated with cement mortar.

Installation of aluminum windows on a balcony - step by step instructions

Now that the balcony opening is free of old and worn-out glazing, new aluminum windows are being installed. As in the previous section, information about this case is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. In this example, the alignment of the edge of the parapet is done by installing wooden planks. They are fixed on long self-tapping screws screwed into concrete. In this case, the boards are aligned horizontally using the building level.

Drilling a hole

Self-tapping screw

Step 2. The delivered aluminum window parts are unpacked, counted and checked for defects. Then, frames are assembled from individual elements - while rubber gaskets are inserted between them, which are necessary to seal the connection. The parts are connected to each other using self-tapping screws.

Fastening a rubber gasket to the end of a frame element

Assembling the horizontal and vertical frame members together

Fixing the frame parts in the joint using screwed self-tapping screws

Step 3. All other frames are assembled according to the same principles that were outlined in the previous operation. As for the sashes, they, as a rule, are delivered ready-made - assembled and glazed.

Assembly of window frames

Step 4. Anchor plates are installed on the upper part of the frame, with the help of which the structure will be connected to the ceiling on the balcony. The places for installation are not chosen by chance - from the edge of the frame to the anchor plate there should be no more than 20 cm, and the interval between the elements should be no more than 40 cm.

Anchor plates are screwed on

Step 5. A window sill is installed on top of the board laid on the parapet. For starters, it is horizontally aligned.

Sill alignment

Step 6. Then the window sill is fixed on the board using self-tapping screws screwed into the part.

Sill mount

Step 7. The laying and fixing of the second window sill is carried out according to the same principle. In this case, both parts should fit tightly with each other, and their edges should lie on the same line.

Installing a second window sill

Step 8. On the outside of the parapet, a metal drip is laid on top of the newly installed window sill. It is fixed with small screws.

A metal ebb is installed

Step 9. Another ebb is laid next to it, while it does not just fit with the previous one, but overlaps with it, as shown in the image below.

Ebb tides are joined with an overlap

Step 10. The installation of the aluminum window frame begins from one of the edges of the balcony. One of its component parts is inserted into the opening and fixed there from bottom to top. Its vertical position is controlled by the building level.

Window frame installation

Window frame installation process

Step 11. Part of the aluminum frame is attached to the parapet with self-tapping screws. They are inserted into the corresponding holes in the bottom part and screwed in with a screwdriver.

Fastening part of the aluminum frame to the parapet

Step 12. Another part of the frame is installed next to it. Then it is joined to the glazing element installed in the previous operation. Fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws screwed into the side parts of both parts of the aluminum frame.

Installing the second part of the frame

Connecting two structural elements

Step 13. Holes are drilled in the concrete slab on the balcony ceiling for fastening the anchor plates. Then dowels are inserted there and self-tapping screws are hammered. The latter fix these plates, and at the same time the parts of the aluminum frame from the upper side of the opening.

Drilling holes

Self-tapping screw

Step 14. Between the ceiling of the balcony and the upper edge of the aluminum frame from the outside, a visor is installed and installed, which is necessary to protect the glass from pollution during rains and other precipitation. The visor is attached with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes in the anchor plates.

The visor starts up

Fastening the visor with self-tapping screws

Step 15. The joints "visor-frame" and "frame-ebb" are treated with silicone sealant - through them not a single drop should penetrate into the balcony, even during the strongest downpour.

Sealing joints with silicone sealant

Step 16. The doors are installed on special fasteners and guides of the aluminum frame - both rigidly fixed and movable. At the same time, it is checked whether the latter can walk freely and how well the windows on the balcony open and close.

Sash installation

Upon completion of all the above operations, the installation of aluminum windows on the balcony can be considered successfully completed. Now you can enjoy all the advantages of modern and high-quality glazing.

The assembly of aluminum sliding windows is similar to the installation of traditional PVC window designs.

However, there are still differences. Read about them in our article.

What you need to know before assembling aluminum sliding windows

Before installing aluminum sliding windows, it is necessary to check the windows for the presence of various defects: cracks, distortions and scratches. The possible gap between the window frame and the wall varies - about 15-55 mm.

Also remember that the cost of installing aluminum sliding windows does not exceed the cost of installing window structures made of other materials: plastic and wood.

Assembly diagram of aluminum sliding windows - general progress of work

The frame for the sliding profile is mounted as for the plastic one. Therefore, we will proceed directly to the installation of the sashes.

Installation of aluminum window sashes:

First, the guides are attached, and then the sashes are installed in them

1. The first step is to install the guides along which the flaps will move. To do this, measure the length of the inner lateral and horizontal sides of the window frame with a tape measure. Make the appropriate markings on the guides. And then - cut them according to the markup. With the help of a file, the sides of the cut are smoothed out.

2. The guides are fixed to the frame. For this, holes are drilled in the window opening with an interval of 30 cm from each other. Fasten with screws first the upper and lower guides. And then the side ones.

Remember that the distance between the guides and the outer (end) edge of the frame should be no more than 5 cm, otherwise the wall will freeze in winter.

4. Attach a schlegel (brush seal) to the horizontal and vertical sides of the sash.

5. The sash is installed in the upper guides, and then in the lower ones with rollers.

6. They regulate the rise of the flaps if they are difficult to close. The adjusting screw is located at the bottom of the sash end. To raise the latter, the screw is turned with a hexagon (4 mm) clockwise.

Assembly of aluminum sliding windows VIDEO can be viewed here:

Installation of aluminum loggias in residential buildings became possible after reducing the thermal conductivity of aluminum window fillings due to special inserts.

Due to their low weight, aluminum structures can be installed on loggias and balconies without fear of excessive load on the structures.

Advantages and scope of aluminum structures

Aluminum has long been successfully used for the installation of facade systems of industrial buildings and structures due to the following properties:

Lightness - aluminum structures are lightweight, therefore they can be used in buildings with insufficient load-bearing capacity.
Mechanical strength - aluminum window fillings are resistant to mechanical stress, including impacts.
Resistance to corrosive processes - the metal can be used in the manufacture of structures for rooms with high humidity, because it does not threaten corrosion damage when interacting with water.
Environmental friendliness - aluminum does not pollute the air, it is safe for humans.
Resistance to temperature changes - the metal is perfectly exploited with sudden changes in temperature conditions, temperature jumps do not cause irreversible damage and changes in the composition of aluminum.
Long service life - aluminum windows, assembled according to all the rules, serve for a long time.
Fire safety - aluminum window fill structures are flame resistant and do not support combustion.

At present, the scope of application of aluminum windows has been significantly expanded, designs are used for glazing loggias and balconies in residential buildings, country cottages, at cultural and health facilities. Every year the range of objects where the installation of aluminum fillings is planned is significantly expanding. This is due to the development of new systems for window and stained glass fillings.

Types of aluminum systems for loggias and balconies

Aluminum window systems differ in the type of sash movement.

Swing windows are an analogue of classic windows, the sashes of which swing open inside the room.
Tilt-and-slide structures - do not require a significant free area near the window for the smooth movement of the sashes. This aluminum frame is very convenient to use for narrow balconies and small loggias. The sash swings open due to movement along special guides (aluminum profile), while the movement is directed towards the blind part of the window. To ventilate the room and provide fresh air, the aluminum sash can be opened 15 cm.

The device of aluminum window fillings involves the use of two types of profiles:

"Cold" windows are ordinary single-glazed windows installed in an aluminum profile. Such windows provide protection of the balcony from precipitation, dust, wind, but are not able to save heat.

"Warm" windows - the profile is equipped with an inner chamber with an insulated thermal insert. The insert can have dimensions from 18 to 44 mm, due to which the window fillings reliably retain heat.

How to install aluminum window fillings yourself

The glazing device on the balcony can be done independently, but most often qualified specialists are invited for this work.

When doing installation work with your own hands, you need to carefully observe the technology of work, only in this case, aluminum windows will really serve for a long time, open well and retain heat.

Preparatory work

It's no secret that some owners use open balconies as a junk warehouse. Before starting the installation work on the installation of balcony windows, you will need to carry out a number of preparatory work:

Dismantle hanging structures - remove clothes lines, hanging shelves, chests, boxes, hooks for flower boxes.
Remove furniture - remove furniture installed there from the balcony.
Dismantle glazing and protective visors - if glazing and protective hinged structures have already been installed on the balcony or loggia.
When dismantling glasses, special safety is required.
Remove the trim - the balcony trim must be removed. Usually it is made of plastic, flat sheets of slate, less often - of metal. The cladding is completely removed from the entire perimeter of the balcony.
Check the quality of the metal fence - after dismantling the cladding, it is worth revising the metal fence.

Watch a video detailing this type of window fill.

If there are broken or bent rods, they are secured by welding and straightened. If necessary, install new elements of the balcony fence. Metal railings and gratings should be cleaned of dust, dirt and rust and covered with special protective compounds against corrosion.

Installation of aluminum window systems

Before starting the installation work on the installation of window fillings, the protective visor should be strengthened. The visor can be made of galvanized sheet metal or siding, the elements are fixed with self-tapping screws for metal.

How to install the window frame correctly? Care must be taken when installing aluminum window structures. The fastening of the structure must be carried out with the help of anchor plates to two concrete balcony slabs (one of our own and one adjacent to the top). After that, an external ebb is installed and the sashes are hung.

When installing individual window elements, it is important to avoid cracks. The joints need to be sealed, the fittings need to be adjusted. The leaves should open or move smoothly, no sagging and distortions are allowed.

Correctly installed aluminum window on the balcony guarantees protection from adverse factors and can serve for many years.

Aluminum construction

energy saving due to narrower bindings;
ease of installation, available even for a non-professional;
resistance to corrosion;
resistance to mechanical damage (compared to other materials);
the absence of cracks and holes in the closed form guarantees protection from extraneous sounds, dust and precipitation;
the lightness of the design allows you not to create additional reinforcement when glazing the balcony on the extension;
budget: the price of aluminum frames is one of the lowest;
a sliding system (in contrast to a swing system) leaves more usable area that is not blocked by flaps;
ascetic design in the style of minimalism.

This type of glazing is considered a cold option.

There are no perfect designs. This also applies to "cold" aluminum glazing. Its disadvantages:

winter freezing of the mechanisms with the help of which the movement and fixation of the valves is carried out;
low thermal insulation in winter (the difference in temperature outside and on the balcony is no more than 5-7 ° C).

Other types of balcony glazing

For comparison, let's take a look at other types of balcony frames on the market for building materials and structures.

PVC frames

"Warm" glazing is made using a PVC frame and multilayer glass units. The design of the glass unit and the use of rubber seals provide:

high noise insulation;
reliable protection from the cold (hence the name);
no draft.

Among the disadvantages of plastic glazing (which the aluminum glazing of balconies lacks) are:

inability to use on console balconies;
the complexity of the repair;
high cost in comparison with aluminum analogue;
high electrostatics of polyvinyl chloride, which actively attracts dust microparticles;
accumulation of condensation due to the tightness of the frame and, as a result, the need for frequent ventilation;
heavy weight (due to which the PVC frame can only be installed on a reinforced parapet).

Intermediate glazing

Frame made of wood

environmental friendliness of wood, which does not emit chemically harmful substances into the space;
long service life (up to 50 years) with proper care, which consists in annual painting / opening with varnish and timely repair;
exquisite eco-design.

Wooden frames have their advantages, but they are more expensive than aluminum ones.

But, along with the advantages, glazing also has significant disadvantages:

wood swells under the influence of moisture, increasing in size; as a result, the flaps do not close well;
high price compared to the installation of an aluminum frame;
the frame can change its linear dimensions over time (dry out or warp);
the installation of such a frame requires certain professional skills; it is difficult for a beginner to cope with it.

Frameless glazing

burglar resistance;
wind and sound insulation;
simplicity and ease of use (the doors are opened and closed with a slight movement of the hand);
Beautiful design;
no obstructions in the form of a frame in the path of sunlight.

Significant disadvantages of frameless glazing make this design imperfect. Let's list them:

absolute transparency - at first glance, this dignity turns into excessive publicity and the inability to hide from prying eyes;
leakage of the structure, which serves as a decorative barrier: such a frame does not provide thermal and sound insulation, moisture can penetrate through it;
the inability to attach a mosquito net makes the balcony vulnerable to insects;
deformation of metal guides due to temperature jumps.

Features of balcony glazing with a take-out

Thus, of all types of balcony glazing, the "cold" version with an aluminum frame is one of the most preferable.

It is very important to make a balcony with a take-out in compliance with all safety requirements

The sequence of works for the installation of an aluminum frame

Let's take a closer look at the installation of aluminum frames on the balcony. First you need to prepare the necessary tools for installation.

Instruments

For work on cold glazing, you will need the following tools and materials:

hacksaw for metal;
roulette;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
screws;
screwdriver;
brush seal (Schlegel);
weatherproof silicone sealant;
polyurethane foam;
hex wrench.

Aluminum sliding frame device

The balcony is glazed with an aluminum profile in this order:

dismantle the old frame (if any);
clean the parapet and slabs from debris and cladding fragments;
assemble a frame from fragments;
fix the assembled structure to the parapet using galvanized self-tapping bolts and mounting loops;
install guides for the sash, for which measure the length of the horizontal sides of the balcony opening, transfer the dimensions to the guides and cut them
polish the saw cut with a file;
drill holes in the opening for self-tapping screws with a step of 0.3 m. install the guides with screws. The gap between the outer edge of the frame and the guide should be no more than 5 cm so that the frame does not freeze during the winter season;
install a brush seal along the contour of the flaps;
insert the sash into the upper guide, and then use the rollers into the lower one;
put a steel visor under the mounting hinges, covered with a decorative and protective polymer coating;
connect the visor to the balcony slab using self-tapping screws;
draw a low tide on the polymerized steel strip. Cut it out with roofing scissors;
install the ebb outside the frame;
seal the joints of the ebb and the visor with a weather-resistant silicone sealant;
fill the corners between the frame profile, balcony slabs, walls and parapet with polyurethane foam;
to mount the glazing of blind sashes. To do this, install the clamping strips for a tight joint of the frame with the glass.

Installing a sliding aluminum frame on a balcony is the most acceptable and economical option for balcony glazing. Detailed instructions will help you install it yourself without much hassle.

Do-it-yourself glazing of a balcony is one of the works that even a very skillful home craftsman cannot be recommended to do alone. The point is, first of all, in the strength of the balcony slab: it may simply not withstand the weight of additional structures. Therefore, before glazing a balcony, you need to consult with DEZ, BTI, or, better, call a specialist from a glazing company for advice, and in accordance with his verdict and make further plans.

The only exception is the glazing of the balcony with the Provedal aluminum profile - it is very light and practically does not give any additional load. But Provedal does not have thermal insulation properties: you will not get additional living space. In addition, you will have to buy a profile for yourself at a retail price, and the cost of installation is only 8-10% of the cost of professional work. Considering also that the pros will prepare the mounting elements on special equipment, it will most likely turn out that a home-made balcony-visit will come out more expensive and worse than a custom-made one.

The glazing of the loggia does not require such careful measurements and strength calculations - its sidewalls transfer well the load to the bearing wall. If the house itself is in a satisfactory condition, you can glaze the loggia in any of the ways described below.

But in all cases, at least one assistant is needed - an assistant insurer. Although the described glazing methods do not require climbing work (i.e., you will not need to hang outside), you still have to bend and hang over the parapet. So, in addition to building tools, you will need safety equipment to glaze your balcony.

Precautionary measures

All work on the glazing of the balcony must be done with a safety belt. It is better to use a sports one - it is lighter and cheaper than an industrial one. The industrial one is safer and more durable, but you do not systematically engage in climbing work.

The halyard of the belt should be about 2.5 m long. Too short a halyard will complicate the work, and if it is too long, if you suddenly fall off, a jerk can be dangerous to injure. The halyard carabiner, and the entire belt as a whole, must withstand a load of 400 kg. If the size of the load is not indicated in the certificate for the belt, or there is no certificate at all, such a belt should not be taken.

The safety rope must be securely fastened. To do this, for the time of work, drive the anchor rod with a metal collet into the main wall, at least 150 mm. The head of the hairpin is in the form of a ring with a generatrix with a thickness of at least 8 mm; diameter of the hairpin body - from 16 mm.

You need to screw the stud into the collet all the way and tightly by inserting a powerful screwdriver or pry bar into the ring. At the end of the work, the head of the hairpin, so as not to interfere, is cut off with a grinder flush with the wall.

Cold and warm glazing

Cold glazing is made with single panes in lightweight frames. Such a balcony is suitable for gatherings in summer, and under a pantry for groceries in winter. However, it is impossible to save on the supporting frame for a cold balcony: the windage of the glazing does not decrease, and the glazing frame mainly bears the wind load.

For warm glazing, the dew point must not be displaced inside the balcony. Otherwise, the falling condensation will negate all your efforts to expand the living space, and may cause the entire apartment to become damp. Also, the penetration of the dew point into the space between the glasses is unacceptable; on a balcony outside the building's outline, this is doubly difficult to achieve. To make sure the dew point is driven out, four conditions must be met:

Make good heat and waterproofing of the parapet and floor. Any crevice or thermal path from outside to inside will cause condensation to form.
Use window frames with double seals and double-glazed windows. If traditional wooden frames are to be used, provide a rubber double seal for the hinged ones, and carefully seal the cracks with putty or liquid nails in the blind ones.
It is imperative to provide for controlled natural ventilation: use metal-plastic windows with a ventilation flap, and with wooden windows in the parapet, arrange a ventilation valve outward.
Ensure air circulation between the living room and the balcony: install an exhaust fan in the window overlooking the balcony, and make a ventilation grill at the bottom of the balcony door.

Glazing types

Panorama

are made in residential buildings of the elite class. Often they are glazed from top to bottom. Such glazing is frameless. On the top and bottom, guides are allowed into which glasses enter on special fasteners. Glazing sections can be sliding, hinged and folding.

The seeming "airiness" of such glazing is actually quite heavy: glass is installed especially strong and thick, with a transparent or tinted coating that reflects infrared (thermal) radiation. Work on panoramic glazing of a balcony requires the highest professionalism with a serious production base and cannot be done independently.

Aluminum profile

Glazing on a special Provedal profile is also often called panoramic: it gives a view not much worse than frameless. Promedal glazing allows you to make both swing and sliding windows. The glazing sections are also assembled on the upper and lower guides: first, vertical posts are installed in them, and then the frame is inserted into the resulting opening with locks and latches.

The weight of Provedal glazing is no more than 20 kg per linear meter, depending on the height of the section and the thickness of the glass. Therefore, it is possible to glaze hanging balconies with Provedal without first calculating the strength. This is especially important if extended glazing is required, see below. The cost of Provedal on a balcony without distortion is 5 times lower than metal-plastic glazing with insulation.

For Provedal glazing, precise horizontal and parallelism of the upper surface of the parapet and the lower - upper ceiling is required. Although the latches are adjustable, the adjustment travel is only 15 mm. Taking into account the increase in misalignment during adjustment, a deviation from the horizontal and non-parallelism of the supporting surfaces of no more than 5 mm per linear meter is permissible. If it is more, then in terms of labor and money for leveling, Provedal loses all its advantages, especially since this glazing is cold.

Metal-plastic

Balcony glazing with plastic windows by weight per linear meter - up to 40 kg - is average between the aluminum profile and the supporting frame. In most cases, it can be done on hanging balconies. Windows can be hinged / folding and sliding. Glazing is possible both warm and cold.

Installation of metal-plastic glazing is carried out on the parapet before installing the window sill:

End, corner and intermediate posts are installed from a wooden beam of 60 mm or a special metal-plastic profile. Racks from a bar are attached to the parapet and the upper overlap with corners on self-tapping screws. Their outer surface can be sewn up with a PVC strip.
Double-glazed windows are removed from the windows, otherwise they can be easily split when removing the frames. To do this, prying with a narrow screwdriver, pull out the glazing beads - their ends are made protruding before final installation. Taking out the glass unit, you need to carefully assemble its clips.
The flaps are removed, for which the pin of the upper loop is squeezed out and pulled out with pliers; after that, lifting the sash, remove it from the lower hinge.
A dummy profile is attached from the bottom of the frame.
Complete anchor plates are inserted into the grooves of the frame.
Frames are inserted into the openings, checked for distortion. Align with wedges if necessary.
The frames are fixed with self-tapping screws into the mounting holes of the anchors.
Double-glazed windows and shutters are inserted back, mechanisms are mounted, and they are checked for operation.
The grooves are foamed, the window sill is installed, and the final finishing is done.

However, the wind resistance of metal-plastic glazing leaves much to be desired. In addition, a visor has to be made above a balcony hanging at least one corner without an upper overlap. In this case, the labor intensity of metal-plastic approaches that for glazing on a supporting frame, but without it, the glazing does not accept the vertical load and may turn out to be too heavy. If the balcony parapet is weak, then it must be removed, and a new one should be laid out in half a brick, which further increases the cost, labor intensity, and weight.

Glazing with an extension is well suited for narrow balconies and for balconies - greenhouses or conservatories. But for such glazing, a solid parapet is required, and with ordinary glazing, work is also needed to construct a durable visor in addition to the upper overlap. Therefore, it is better to glaze a balcony with a take-out with Provedal.

Glazing on the supporting frame

This "Soviet" glazing is very laborious and weighs a lot, up to 80 kg per linear meter. The pipes with corners used for it in the old days quickly rusted and the new ones did not look very good either. But now the interest in frame glazing is reviving:

The welded steel frame is relatively cheap, but very strong and durable.
Its painting with acrylic enamel for baths gives the frame a look no worse than that of PVC and reliably protects against corrosion.
The connection of the frame with the canopy or the top floor into one whole allows you to distribute the weight load, so that such glazing can load the balcony slab even less than metal-plastic.
Windows of any type can be inserted into the frames, from Old Testament wooden windows to the same Provedal or solid glass.
Windows can be made very wide; they only account for the wind load.
The problem of a weak parapet is eliminated. It is cut off, and the supporting frames are made into their upper and lower parts, and the lower one can be made below the previous parapet, and such a balcony will look no worse than a panoramic one. The lower opening is easily insulated with plywood or drywall with a layer of foam plastic - complex insulation work on a double crate disappears.

In general, if you have two strong and intelligent assistants, and you are used to working with your hands, glazing on the supporting frame may be the best option: as a result, you will get a full-fledged additional living area for at least 20 years.

The design of the frame glazing is clear from the pictures. The figure at the bottom right (vertical section) illustrates a case where an existing balcony railing is used. This is possible if the length of the balcony does not exceed 3 m, the bars of the fence are straight, with a cross section of at least 16x16 mm, in increments of up to 160 mm, with upper and lower longitudinal ties and firmly sit in the slab. Otherwise, it is better to cut the old fence and make the supporting frames in two parts, as described.

We glaze with our own hands

Sequence of work

If an old lattice fencing is used, then its insulation outside and inside and the external decorative finish must be done before glazing. Interior decoration with the installation of a window sill is carried out after the installation of window frames. The top of the former fence should be horizontal; otherwise it is also better to cut it - alignment will cost more than the lower frames.

If the glazing is placed on a concrete or brick parapet, then its upper surface is leveled to the horizontal with cement mortar and an external decorative finish is made. Insulate and trim from the inside after installing the window sill.

Supporting frames, pipe supports and external corners

Pipe racks (highlighted in red in the figure) are necessary if the balcony is hanging and without an upper overlap. In this case, they will take most of the weight load from the glazing and transfer it to the visor. If the length of the balcony is more than 4 m, then another intermediate pipe stand is needed in the middle of its long side.

The outer corners of the glazing are filled with polyurethane foam, cut off its excess and sewn up with strips of galvanized or roofing sheet metal, using self-tapping screws or welding. The welded seams are smoothed out with a grinder, and the corners are painted with bath enamel, like the entire frame.

The supporting frames are made from a steel angle of 40-60 mm by welding. The seams are smoothed out, the frames are painted with the same acrylic enamel. They are painted after stripping with degreasing, like a bath.

The lower frames are made taking into account the skew of the balcony slab; the joint of the upper and lower frames must be horizontal. For side frames, the top should be horizontal. If the upper floor is also skewed, the upper side frames are made in the shape of the opening, but an additional corner is welded at the top so that the window opening comes out rectangular. The resulting wedge is sewn up with any suitable material - plywood, drywall, galvanized.

With a small, up to 20 mm, blockage of the walls, it is better to deepen the sides of the frames adjacent to them in the groove. If the blockage is larger, work on the balcony should be postponed and the building should be revised - perhaps it is emergency, and nothing can be done on the balcony.

Visor

A visor for a hanging balcony is a simple construction (see Fig.), But the most laborious and responsible one. The visor should protrude 150 mm beyond the glazing on all free sides, based on this, its dimensions in plan are determined. Height - 400 mm. Corner size - 40 mm.

Do not try to assemble the visor right away: it is too heavy and cumbersome. Even if you are three or four and you can lift it, you will have to work at the risk of not only your own life, but also those of the passers-by below.

Installation of the visor is done as follows:

The rear frame is welded, and fixing holes for anchor bolts of 10-12 mm are immediately drilled into it. The pitch of the holes in the upper crossbar is 400-600 mm. At the bottom, the step can be increased up to a meter - the lower crossbar is pressed against the wall, and does not tend to break away from it. But there should be at least 4 holes along the length.
The rear frame is attached to the wall and is level and horizontally aligned. Places for bolts are marked on the wall and the upper edge of the frame is beaten off. This work must be done by at least three people.
Mounting holes are drilled in the wall, anchor collets are installed in them. Precisely along the upper edge of the frame, it is selected with a grinder with a 6 mm thick circle, a 20 mm deep strobe.
The frame is fixed to the wall.
Slopes and crossbars are cut along the length of the blank, their ends are cut to the required angle.
Slopes and crossbars are welded into the frame, then the outer crossbar is welded to them. When welding, it is necessary to control the horizontalness of the bottom surface and the perpendicularity of the crossbars. The crossmembers are welded first; their outer ends are supported at the same time with a piece of timber with plywood spacers.
We are preparing the roofing of the canopy made of galvanized or roofing sheet metal and blanks for the sidewall sheathing. Flooring seams are ordinary roofing. Decking width - with a margin of 20 mm.
Roof decking is being installed; its upper edge is inserted into the strobe. The flooring is attached to the frame by welding along the contour. You need to cook with a 2 mm electrode at a current of about 60 A. Then the sidewalls are also welded.
The strobe is sealed with cement mortar.

Note: the inner edge of the roof deck, placed in the gutter, guarantees against leakage along the wall for the entire service life of the deck. When painted with bath enamel, this is more than 10 years.

Pipe racks

Pipe stands are needed if a welded canopy is installed above the balcony. If there is an upper concrete floor above the balcony, you can do without them. Material - steel pipe with the same outer diameter as the corner: 40-60 mm.

From above, the ends of the pipe supports are attached to the visor by welding; for the lower ones in the balcony slab, holes with a depth of 15-20 mm and a diameter of 10-15 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe are selected with a core drill. The pipes are finally adjusted to the size in place, with a grinder with a metal circle. The pipe, tilting, is inserted into the hole and brought to the place with your hands; perhaps lightly tapping with a mallet. The pipe should not go tightly into the space - it is life-threatening to drive in the pipe and push it, pushing with all your might! The groove around the end of the pipe in the hole is cemented.

Carrying frames

The upper supporting frames are welded to fit the size of the window frames with a margin of 10-15 mm in width, and in height with the same plus the thickness of the window sill. The maximum size for frames made of 40 mm corner is 1100x1500 mm. From a 60 mm corner, frames of 1300x1700 mm can be made, but the weight of the entire frame will almost double.

The lower frames, if the old parapet is removed, are made for the remainder of the height, taking into account the skew of the balcony slab for the side ones. The frames are connected by welding to each other, with the visor and the pipe supports; with concrete surfaces - self-tapping screws 8-10x150 mm in dowels.

Hole spacing for fasteners - 200-300 mm. More often it is not necessary to fasten: the concentration of stresses in the middle of the gaps between the screws can weaken the structure.

Note: it makes no sense to use expensive aluminum for the frame on TIG-welding or self-tapping screws: the strength drops, and 3/4 of the weight of the glazing is provided by windows and insulation.

External finishing

Outside corners, as indicated above, are foamed and sewn with sheet metal strips. Without foaming, condensation will settle in the formed cavity, which will lead to corrosion of the frame.

The lower frames from the outside can be sheathed in advance with a metal sheet for welding. In this case, the weld beads are removed with a grinder with a grinding wheel before installing the frames. The second option for the lower frames is to be sealed from the inside with plywood or drywall. In terms of strength and reliability, both methods are equivalent.

The lower frames are mounted first; an ebb (dripstone) is laid on their upper surface. The upper frames are first fastened from above and from the sides, and only then are they welded to the lower ones. If a gap of more than 3 mm is obtained, a strip of sheet metal is inserted into it before welding. Welding is carried out outside. This has to be done hanging over, so insurance is a must. The shelves of the frame protruding into the interior are welded with clamps, it is also possible along the entire length.

Before installing the window frames, the entire frame, including the visor, is painted with acrylic enamel outside and inside. Before painting, the frame must be cleaned with a drill with a wire brush and degreased with a nitro thinner. Kerosene and solvent for degreasing before painting with enamel for baths are not suitable! It is necessary to paint in clear calm weather in order to avoid dust settling on the frame.

Installation of windows

Before installing the windows, you need to put in place and attach the window sill to the corners with 6 mm self-tapping screws. Under the frame shelves protruding into the interior, grooves are cut out in the window sill. Three attachment points are sufficient for one window section for a window sill: from above, the window sill will be additionally pressed by the window, and from below it will be supported by a crate of internal insulation.

Windows can be installed in the supporting frame of any type. Anchoring plates for window frames are not needed: the window frames are mounted on self-tapping screws 6 mm through the frame to the corners. The fixing step is 250-300 mm. The frames of metal-plastic windows are installed immediately assembled, only after removing the double-glazed windows. Alignment of window frames with wedges when installed in a supporting frame is usually not required.

After installing the window frames, the grooves between them are foamed and proceeded to. You can consider either as options.

Output

With the glazing of the balcony with an aluminum profile, two novice masters will cope with smoke breaks in 3-4 hours. The cost of money is the smallest possible. But such glazing will only protect from wind, rain, dust and leaves.
Glazing with metal-plastic windows will cost 5-7 times more, and you can install it over the weekend. On such a balcony with insulation in winter, during the daytime, it will be possible to spend an hour or two in home clothes.
For glazing on the supporting frame, two skilled craftsmen with one or two helpers will have to kill with half a vacation. It cannot be installed on every balcony, and at a cost it will hardly come out cheaper than a metal-plastic one. But in the end, you get a room in which you can live and work for decades all year round.

Aluminum frames are a reasonable solution, if only because the aluminum profile is very strong, durable, sufficiently resistant to corrosion and other deformations. It is easy to maintain and, most importantly, easy to repair.

Aluminum construction: cold glazing

It should be said right away that the aluminum construction assumes both cold and warm glazing. Such a structure will become warm if a double frame, double-glazed windows, glass with an energy saving function and the profile itself with special thermal inserts included are used.

Cold glazing has a lot of advantages, including:

The lightness of the structure itself, which is important for buildings that cannot withstand significant loads;
Durability, manufacturers assure that such frames can be successfully used for eight decades, if reasonably handled with it;
Environmental friendliness, because the material does not burn, and at high temperatures it does not release toxins;
Strength, aluminum can withstand loads greater than the PVC profile is capable of - three times, wood - seven times;
Ease of use, it is enough to lubricate the fittings with machine oil annually and clean the frames with ordinary soapy water.

But warm glazing has its advantages, because the cold type of glazing is not intended, in principle, to protect against cold, the frames can become icy, and the heat transfer from the apartment to the street will increase.

Installation of aluminum frames on the balcony: installation and assembly

You can install the aluminum frame on the windows with your own hands.

From the tools you will need:

Hacksaw;
Self-tapping screws;
Roulette;
Screwdriver;
Screws;
Drill;
Polyurethane foam;
Allen key;
Brush seal;
Silicone sealant.

How to install an aluminum profile (cold glazing):

Dismantle the old frame;
Clean the parapet;
The frame is assembled from the fragments;
The assembled structure is fixed on the parapet using self-tapping screws and mounting loops;
Next, the guides for the sash are installed;
The saw cut is carefully polished with a file;
Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the opening, guides are installed with the help of screws;
A sealant is installed along the contour of the flaps;
The sash is installed in the upper guide, after which - with rollers, in the lower one;
A steel visor is wound under the mounting hinges;
The visor is connected to the balcony slab with self-tapping screws;
On the polymerized steel strip, an ebb is drawn, which is cut out with roofing scissors;
The ebb is installed outside the frame;
The joints of the ebb and the visor are sealed with silicone sealant;
The corners between the frame profile, walls and parapet, balcony slabs are filled with polyurethane foam;
Fixed sash glazing is being installed.

As a rule, after this, further decoration of the room takes place.

Cold aluminum balcony glazing (video)

Aluminum roller shutters: what is it

Roller shutters made of aluminum are a kind of alternative to blinds, but they have a roll shape. These shutters are supplied with plates and guides.

What is the principle of operation of roller shutters: canvases of metal lamellas are unwound and unwound in the up or down direction. The drive mechanism itself can be electric or manual. Electric is a system with a remote control.

Often, aluminum roller shutters are used as protective fences, as a barrier to protect against burglary. By the way, they also insulate the room and allow you to isolate external noise.

Aluminum loggia: what are the features

Not everyone decides to glaze the loggia in this way, this rarely happens, because maximum thermal insulation with such glazing is impossible.

If the loggia only needs protection from wind and precipitation, then sliding aluminum systems are used.

Features of aluminum systems (frame, glass):

Instead of a double-glazed window, single glass is used, standard, 4-5 mm thick;
All the doors that the frame has can be sliding, it is also possible to combine these doors with blind ones;
The aluminum profile is usually equipped with two or three guides;
Be sure to have a brush seal around the perimeter of each sash (this is necessary for hermetic closure).

The mesh can be moved on special rollers along a separate guide.

When the glazing of the loggia occurs, it should be understood that most of the system is under pressure from wind currents, and therefore the structure must be firmly fixed around the perimeter.

PVC or aluminum: what makes the repair better

Comparing the advantages of a particular design is a long and difficult path, but to compare the disadvantages, and it will become clear what the loggia or balcony will be glazed with in a particular case.

Cons of plastic systems:

They build up static electricity;
They are attractive enough for dust and dirt;
Plastic is easy to scratch or damage;
These are heavy and not very comfortable structures.

And, of course, such glazing is not ecological.

Aluminum windows to the balcony - cons:

Weak thermal insulation, in winter it will be cold on such a balcony, even if you find an opportunity to insulate it.
Frames are often deformed under the influence of temperature extremes.

It is obvious that numerically aluminum structures outperform plastic, but the first "minus" of aluminum windows is very significant - for many it is the warmth of the room that is the main selection criterion.

Attention, only TODAY!

Also on the topic

Horoscope for September 26 Scorpio

Horoscope Capricorn girl for November

Moon calendar for november

Business horoscope - Scorpio

Mobile horoscope - Virgo