Choosing or making wooden doors for a bathhouse. Door to the bathhouse: creating a wooden and glass structure Diagram of how to make a door to the bathhouse

What should a bath door be like? Constant steam and moisture create difficult conditions that not every product can withstand. The entrance door to the bathhouse should retain heat well and prevent drafts, and have a low level of water absorption so as not to swell and dry out. Environmental Safety- Same important aspect, since harmful substances begin to evaporate more actively at elevated temperatures, but procedures in the bath should bring a healing effect and not cause allergies. You can buy a finished door, counting on the integrity of the manufacturer. And yet, a product made personally is considered more reliable and of good quality. Let's take a closer look , how to make a door to a bathhouse with your own hands.

Wooden doors are a traditional design for a bathhouse. With the right choice of raw materials, such products tolerate constant humidity well and last for many years. A blind design is considered the most preferable. It retains heat better and is easier to manufacture. According to the type of construction, bath doors are:

• massive (made of tongue and groove boards);
• frame (frame made of wooden beam, outer skin, inside - a layer of insulation);
• paneled (assembled from individual figured elements).

All product options are suitable for saunas. But for Russian baths, where in addition to steam, high level humidity, it is best to use massive doors, while paneled and framed ones can serve as an entrance from the street to the dressing room

Material selection

The door block consists of several elements: frame, leaf and trim. If the bathhouse is built of logs, then the same material is used for the box as for the walls. In other cases, the entire block will be made from one type of wood.

The best materials are considered:

• Oak. It has high density wood, durable and inexpensive material
• Linden. Moisture-resistant wood, not subject to swelling and rotting. Has a light shade. When heated, it emits a subtle aroma.
• Aspen. Possesses everyone necessary properties and affordable price.
• Larch. Best material in terms of durability, fire resistance and resistance to high humidity. It has its own antiseptics that easily deal with pathogenic organisms.
• Cedar. Not susceptible to mold and mildew. With increased temperature conditions the tree releases pine oils that are beneficial to health. This variety is characterized by low resin evaporation.

It is important to choose not only suitable variety, but also good quality wood The material should not have large knots or signs of deformation. The thickness of the boards is selected in accordance with the expected design parameters. As a rule, the size varies between 25–50 mm. To ensure that the boards have a smooth surface, they are sanded.

Tools

To make bathhouse doors with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• yardstick;
• construction level;
• hand saws or jigsaw;
• chisel;
• plane;
• hammer, including a rubber one;
• screwdriver;
• sandpaper or, if available, a grinder;
• clamps.

It would be nice for your workflow to have your own milling machine(stationary or manual). It will help you complete a number of operations faster.

Accessories

There can be several doors in a bathhouse: to the steam room, the relaxation room, and at the entrance. Increased demands are placed on the fittings that will serve on the steam room side. Usually, the indispensable attributes of a door are a handle and a latch. It is better if they are made of wood. This is a guarantee that no one will get burned when opening the door of a well-heated bathhouse.

Product parameters

First you need to decide what the design will look like, why it is being compiled scheme, on which the parameters are taken into account. The length and width size will be a little smaller than normal interior designs, because on bath door is responsible for keeping hot air inside the steam room. Optimal width is 600–750 mm, and the height is up to 170 cm. But still, in order not to forgetfully bang your head on the lintel, the height of the product can be made larger. Be sure to take into account that in a Russian bath it is customary to have a high threshold (150–200 mm). The height of the sash is measured from this.

It is necessary to make a door for the bathhouse so that it opens outward. Then the premises will meet safety requirements. The hinges are hung from the dressing room side, due to this they are less exposed to water and steam and do not suffer from corrosion.

If you plan to assemble a paneled door for a bathhouse with your own hands, you will need drawings. Such a product consists of several elements that must be precisely adjusted to each other. This is not an easy task, and it is not worth taking on if you do not have solid carpentry skills. A simpler option is a do-it-yourself construction made from boards or lining. But if this is your first time taking on such a task, do not be lazy to draw up the drawings first.

Assembly of solid wood fabric

To make a door with your own hands, we will need the following materials:

• tongue and groove board;
• beam for the box (60x80 mm) and for the transverse 50x45 mm);
• hinges made of rust-resistant metal – 3 pcs.;
• wooden handle.

Now let's look at how to make a reliable door to a bathhouse with your own hands step by step:

1. The tongue and groove board is sawn to the required length.
2. The surface of the boards must be planed and sanded to make it smooth.
3. The canvas boards are laid out on a workbench or other perfectly flat surface.
4. The wooden elements are connected to each other using wood glue using a tongue and groove pattern, inserting the tongue of one board into the recess of the adjacent one. The joint made in this way must be very tight, for which each board should be tapped with a mallet.
5. When the canvas meets the specified width parameters, it is necessary to check the dimensions with the drawing and, if necessary, cut off the excess on the sides of the structure.
6. Next, the shield being made is clamped in several places with a clamp and left for several days to dry.
7. The assembled door leaf is leveled with a plane and sanded.
8. A timber key is made in such a way that in cross section it looks like a trapezoid.
9. Across door leaf dowels made of timber are attached. Their length should correspond to the width of the sash.
10. The wide edge of the dowel is applied to the sash. On both sides along the entire length, mark straight lines along the crossbar with a pencil.
11. When making cuts in the canvas along the intended lines, it is necessary to take into account the angle of inclination of the side cuts of the key. The final result should be a recess depth of 10 to 15 mm.
12. Carpenter's glue is poured into the cleaned groove, after which the key is carefully driven into the recess from the side.
13. The last stage is hanging the hinges and installing the handle.

Manufacturing of prefabricated fabric

This design requires the following materials:

• Beam 60x80 mm. It will go both to the box and to the harness.
• Tongue board 36x120 mm.
• Lining made of natural wood 12x96 mm.
• Pins, hinges, handles.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse doors are assembled in the following order:

• To assemble the timber into a frame, it is necessary to prepare its edges for joining into a “wood floor”. To do this, grooves are cut to the depth of half the beam, and the length of the recess should be equal to the width of the beam.
• The frame elements are placed on wood glue and clamped with several clamps.
• Once the glue has dried, install additional fasteners - wooden dowels. For them, holes are drilled through the timber, wood glue is poured into them, and then dowels are driven in there.
• Since the door to the bathhouse must retain heat, a vapor barrier material, insulation and another layer of vapor barrier are placed in the interior of the structure.
• The structure is covered with clapboard on both sides.

Other types of doors to the bathhouse

Wooden doors are a tribute to tradition, which is why their popularity still remains high. And in design, such structures are fully consistent with buildings made of logs and timber. However, the choice of bath doors is not limited to wood models.

• Glass doors often used for saunas. Visitors to the bathhouse will not experience any inconvenience: the surface of the glass loses its transparency during special treatment. There are many options for such products external design: stained glass decor, tinting, fusing. Only skilled craftsmen undertake to make glass doors with their own hands, but the process of installing a finished block on your own will not be difficult.
• Metal-plastic doors blind or with double-glazed windows are an unsuitable option for a steam room. But this design can be considered as an entrance door, for a rest room or for a shower room. Don't worry that the product won't fit the design. Modern models laminated, as a result of which they acquire a pattern similar natural wood. Manufacturing plastic doors for a bath - the process is complex. Therefore, it is more convenient to purchase ready block and install it.

Options for insulating the door to the bathhouse

Wood has low thermal conductivity, so cold should not seep through a properly assembled solid wood door. It’s another matter when the product has a frame structure - the inner layer of insulation loses its properties over time and has to be replaced. How will internal insulation be done? e doors? Let us clarify that this process is only necessary for street entrance doors.

If it is necessary to replace the insulation, the door is removed from its hinges, the external design elements are dismantled, the sheathing is removed, and then removed old material. The new insulation is tightly laid between the ribs of the structure, then the door is assembled and the fittings are installed in place.

Often the cause of drafts is not the door leaf, but large gaps along the porch, threshold. This often happens if you purchased a ready-made door made of poorly dried material. How to insulate a bathhouse door with your own hands in this case? One of the most convenient and available ways leatherette upholstery is considered. The cracks will be closed with warm rollers.

• If the bathhouse is built from a certain type of wood, try to choose the same material for the door.
• If the sash is not provided decorative cladding, on the surface of the boards intended for the manufacture of doors for a Russian bath, there should not be any noticeable flaws or large knots.
• To ready product was not subject to deformation, only one type of wood should be present in its design.
• Cheap material is only a temporary saving for the wallet, which will eventually affect the quality.

Before you make the door to the bathhouse yourself, evaluate your capabilities and take advantage useful tips. Perhaps you should not take on this work without having experience working with the tool, since this process is quite complex and painstaking.

Everything that is necessary for the construction of any building is now easy to acquire. Even a bath door, the price of which (depending on the dimensions and material of manufacture) starts from 7,250 rubles. In principle, it’s not that expensive. But the aesthetic component in this case is not the main thing.

The main criterion when choosing it is the ability to retain heat in rooms as efficiently as possible, especially in a steam room. How can I check this in a sales showroom? From a practical point of view, it is better to make a bathhouse door yourself, without relying on the experience and integrity of the manufacturer. If it turns out later that it doesn’t hold heat well, it won’t be possible to replace it. All the nuances of such “design” will be discussed in this article.

*All listed below linear parameters– recommended. Their optimal values verified over the years.

Features of bath doors

You will need a street door + a steam room door. This is a minimum, since depending on the internal layout and the number of rooms, there may be more doors.

Linear dimensions of the canvas for all (cm, with a tolerance of ±5). Height – 175, width – 65.

Specifics of the door to the steam room

Increased demands are placed on her. Therefore, its production has a number of features. Regarding other doors, including street doors, the criteria remain common to all similar products that are installed in residential buildings.

• Number of doors: when firing “black” – 2 (in case of strong smoke, one opens slightly), “in white” – 1.
• Material – wood.
• The canvas should not deform under conditions of excessive humidity and temperature.
• The door is made “blind” to prevent steam from penetrating into the adjacent room.
• Threshold height (cm) – no more than 5.
• Opening only outwards. It should be clarified. If installed differently (inside), the loops will be in the steam room. Considering the atmosphere in this room, the metal they are made from will not last long.

Materials for making a door

Next we will talk about the door leaf. As for the box, it should be assembled from the same wood from which the walls of the log house were erected. If the bathhouse was built of brick, artificial stone, then in relation to the canvas.

Wood species

On a note! Use any coniferous assumes additional processing blanks in order to minimize the release of resins, since not everyone receiving the procedure can safely tolerate their constant presence in vapor.

Dimensions of workpieces (mm)

Basic: for the frame – timber 60 x 40; for the canvas - a board (necessarily tongue-and-groove) with a width of 120 and a thickness of 36.

The side of the door facing the steam room can also be lined with clapboard. Its thickness is at least 10.

Everything else depends on the chosen design and financial capabilities.

The order of assembly of the canvas

The base on which it is made must be smooth and rigid to prevent even the slightest distortion of the surface.

There are 2 options for the design of the canvas - frame and solid wood. Latest for self-made more complex, so for general information it is appropriate to provide only an assembly diagram.

To make such a door yourself, you must have good skills in working with wood. By the way, it is characterized by significant weight, so its installation will require a rather massive block. And this is both complexity and higher cost of work.

Let's consider a simpler design of the canvas - frame.

Marking

The point is to immediately outline the necessary frame parameters. No matter how high-quality the wood is, over time the canvas will swell somewhat. To eliminate problems with the door closing tightly, its dimensions should immediately be chosen slightly smaller (by about 3 - 4 mm on each side) than the dimensions of the internal perimeter of the jamb.

Fabrication

• Frame assembly You will need 2 of them - external and internal. Corner joints can be overlapped, further strengthened with spikes and metal corners.
• The outer frame is covered with OSB (chipboard, MDF) on one side, and the inner frame is covered with tongue and groove boards. All connections are made according to the tongue-and-groove principle. The peculiarity is that for high-quality fastening of samples and sealing the gaps between them, the side protrusions and recesses on the boards are treated with sealant or PVA.
• Since the bars differ in a certain thickness, such designs have internal cavity. It contains insulation material. Considering the specifics of further operation, it is not advisable to use mineral wool.
• After such preparation, both halves of the canvas are placed on top of each other, after which they are rigidly fastened. The gap around the perimeter is sealed with jute cord and heat-resistant sealant.

Further covering of the canvas on the outside is at the discretion of the craftsman. It can be made over chipboard with clapboard, thin board, or finished in another way.

The peculiarity is that the surface of the door facing the steam room should be finished only with wood. And for the outer part, the choice of material is made in accordance with the interior of the adjacent room.

Here is another scheme, but it is also more complicated. Perhaps someone will be interested.

In order for the door to the steam room to close tightly, without gaps, foam rubber, jute tape, felt, etc. are glued to its end parts. These materials are soft, so even a slight distortion of the canvas will not cause problems with closing it.

Everything else - the location of the hinges (in height), handles and locks - is not of fundamental importance.

• The fittings located on the inside of the fabric (in the steam room) should not be metal. If the room temperature is high, the same handle may become so hot that it will be impossible to touch it to close the door.
• No matter what sales outlets say, it’s not worth installing “super-fashionable” doors made of frosted glass, plastic, and so on at the entrance to the steam room. Argumentation - any artificial material contains “chemistry” to some extent.
• Since any structure shrinks, then door block at the entrance to the steam room it must be mounted inside the casing (). Therefore, you should first familiarize yourself with the features of this design and the rules for its assembly. Regarding other doors - depending on the material of the walls.

It is pointless to give advice for all occasions. Baths differ in the material of the walls, their thickness, and the location of the building. But the main nuances of door manufacturing are outlined in the article in a way that is easy to understand. It won’t be difficult to make them yourself using these recommendations. Good luck, dear reader!

Wood is the most traditional material for a bathhouse. And if walls are made from it, then why shouldn’t doors be made from it? We agree that wooden doors for a bathhouse - this is a good choice, but we must make it clear: each room has its own characteristics for which it is chosen wood type, design and door thickness. Therefore, we will not lump everything together, but will analyze each case separately.

Nuances of choice for different bath rooms

Everyone builds their own bathhouse according to a design that they like and that fits their budget. Hence all sorts of variations: separate washing room and combined steam room. Somewhere there may be no waiting room, but somewhere there may be no rest room. One way or another, we will describe all the typical premises, and you yourself will figure out who needs what.

To the steam room

Resin stains on door jamb

Let's consider wooden doors for a bath installed in a steam room (the process is presented in the relevant articles). The steam room in the bathhouse is the hottest and most humid room. And even if the processes occurring in wood under the influence of moisture and heat are the same for walls and doors, the latter are still more sensitive to the gain and loss of water, because they stop closing when they swell. Or they crack due to mistakes in drying.

In general, if you choose wooden bath doors for a steam room, then from those types of wood that give smallest expansion under action high humidity . First of all, we can call linden It practically doesn't change. But its wood is soft, has low wear resistance and is easily subject to deterioration - rotting, fungus.

Useful video

Video instructions for making a traditional door:

Repair: how to straighten a wooden bath door

Let us immediately clarify that the question “how to straighten a wooden door in a bathhouse” can be generated by two different and unrelated reasons. In one case the door just sagged and tilted because the hinges were loose, and in another case everything is much worse - it could become warped, that is, it could become curved or winged.

Let's consider both cases and treatment options.

If we're talking about about loosening the loops, then they need pull up. To do this, the door is removed, the amount of play between the hinge and the frame is determined, the old fasteners are removed, and a suitable diameter is inserted into the holes using PVA glue. pieces of wood so that when screwing in new screws there is good adhesion to the box. It's better to take new screws more authentic than before. Time for glue to dry - day.

Alternatively, you can either completely rearrange the loops to a new place, or strengthen them, delivering new ones.

ATTENTION! When delivering new hinges, do not forget about their thickness, to which you need to trim the end of the door leaf and frame. This applies to mortise hinges and canopies. To avoid this, you can simply install a butterfly loop.

If the door it just went down and sank without distortion, then the reason for this is wear of the working part of the hinges. You need to lift the door with wedges from below, determine how much it has sagged and prepare wire rings that fit onto the pins. After this, all that remains is to add a drop of machine oil and return the door to its place.

When the door is warped due to warping, simple solutions you can't wait. Warping is a defect that occurs during the drying and storage stages of lumber. There is practically no treatment for it. More precisely, it is possible to treat, but the result is unpredictable.

Option 1

You need a room with a humidity of 60-70%. In practice, this is what a Russian bathhouse is. It is necessary to saturate the part that has warped with moisture. And then they put her under oppression. The weight of the oppression should be 5-7 times the weight of the door itself. You can act sequentially: first press down the most curved part, then distribute the pressure evenly.

Option 2

Oblique jamb. That is, it is necessary repeat the curve of the door with the bend of the jamb.

Option 3

With slight warping it may be possible trim the desired area.

Doors to the bathhouse are the finishing touch in building your own health complex. From them the right choice and installation depends on the comfort of your holiday, so don’t be lazy to find out all the nuances and observe step-by-step technology when installing it yourself.

• High degree of water and moisture resistance. It is important that not only the material itself does not collapse under such conditions, but also that the door does not become a place of settlement for fungi and bacteria.
• Good sealing. A poor fit of the door in the steam room will make it difficult to maintain the desired temperature in the room and make it more expensive. If it comes through Entrance door in the bathhouse, a hot person leaving the steam room will quickly catch a cold.
• Resistance to significant temperature changes. It is necessary that the door material transfers severe frost during the unheated period (when the bathhouse is not in use) and did not suffer due to the strong heating of the steam room during relaxation.

All the described requirements are met by solid wood doors. In addition to them, metal-plastic (for the entrance) and glass (only for the steam room) are used. Options made from MDF, metal and other similar materials cannot be used in a bathhouse, since in such conditions they turn out to be impractical and unsafe.

Photo gallery: options for bath doors

Typical design of a sauna house with a modest door Fabulous bath and health complex Such a complex paneled door with carved platbands will be appropriate in traditional bath The modest entrance lobby looks good in a log house The entrance door to the bathhouse can be double-leaf The door to the steam room is traditionally made lower Metal-plastic door with a French layout - a very effective solution for a bath Glass doors to the steam room look stylish in both transparent and matte versions

Table: comparison of doors made of different materials

Door type	Advantages	Flaws
Solid wood	universal, suitable for all rooms of the bath complex; completely natural, do not harm health; you can do it yourself; the finished canvas can be adjusted to the size of the opening; variety is provided by the size and proportions of the panels; service life 25–50 years.	special products are required for care; If repairs are necessary, it is difficult to disassemble the product and replace damaged fragments.
Frame with wood cladding	can be used in all rooms, but are undesirable in a steam room, since the heat can lead to destruction of the insulation; made with your own hands from inexpensive materials; the design depends on the type and location of the finishing strips/cloths; the outer casing can be replaced without removing the door from its hinges.	under external finishing may be hiding synthetic materials, dangerous in case of fire; changes in the finished canvas are possible only within 1–3 mm, but non-standard opening dimensions can be taken into account during manufacturing; service life 15–25 years; care becomes more difficult big amount seams.
Glass	have increased water resistance, so they are ideal for steam rooms and showers; bioinert, models made of triplex and tempered glass are safe even when broken; the variety of canvases is provided by the color of the material and the type of patterns; care is as easy as possible, it is advisable not to use specialized chemicals (“Anti-drip”, etc.); service life 50–80 years.	the canvases are manufactured in a factory, but you can make the box yourself; it is impossible to fit the opening, it is necessary to very accurately maintain the angles when installing the box; DIY repairs are not possible.
Metal-plastic	service life 25–40 years; models differ in finishing color and frame design; easy to clean without using abrasives, preferably with soapy water; In doors with glazing, it is possible to replace the glass unit with your own hands.	They are used only to decorate the entrance area. If the bathhouse has a dressing room separate from the locker room, it is permissible to use glazed doors. Cheap models emit chlorides, others are toxic only when the building catches fire. Collected only in industrial conditions. The finished canvas and frame do not change; it is easier to fix the existing opening.

Video: how to choose the right door for a bathhouse

Determining the dimensions of the structure

Openings in self-built baths, as a rule, differ from standard ones. Therefore, before making a door and frame for it, it is worth carrying out basic calculations:

• Using a tape measure, measure the width and height of the opening according to the level to avoid errors due to skew.
• Subtract 6 cm from the resulting width and 3 cm from the height. This way you will get the external parameters of the box without taking into account the threshold. It is better to determine its thickness when the door is ready in order to level out possible errors.
• From the width of the box, subtract the thickness of the timber that you plan to use (the most popular is 110x60 mm) and another 6 mm (the required gap on both sides). This will be the final width of the finished door.
• To determine the height of the door, subtract the thickness of the beam and another 18 mm from the height of the frame (3 mm gap at the top and 15 mm ventilation gap at the bottom).

If the result obtained differs from standard models just 1–2 cm, you can do it standard door and simply use thicker bars to secure the box in the opening.

How to make a wooden door to a bathhouse with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

A wooden door is the most common option for a bathhouse. Despite the existence of new technologies, wood remains the most popular material for all types of bath doors: entrance, interior, steam room. In order for them to last a long time, you should not be satisfied with inexpensive models, as they will quickly swell from moisture. Need to pick up the right breed, For example:

• Oak. This is a very dense wood that is not prone to swelling, but it is difficult to process and is prone to cracking.
• Larch. The massif of this breed is optimal for wet areas, it has natural antiseptic properties, so it does not rot, does not become moldy and is not attacked by wood-boring beetles.
• Aspen. The material is inexpensive, is not afraid of overdrying and is well preserved in damp rooms.

Sometimes light, fragrant linden is used for doors, but it rots quite quickly. Pine analogues are also popular, but along with a pleasant smell, such wood emits a sticky resin. Spruce is not as resinous, but less moisture resistant, so it is also not suitable for a bath.

Regardless of what type of wood you prefer, the solid wood must be of high quality, without knots, otherwise they will all fall out during use. Optimal humidity material - 15%.

Stacked wooden doors

Wooden doors of the type-setting type are assembled from identical parts, for example, a tongue-and-groove floorboard. This is the optimal way to make doors for a beginning craftsman. Despite the simplicity of work, typesetting canvases can look very attractive, especially if you choose decorative forged hinges and handles for them. They look best in traditional log cabins(real or imitations) in a rustic style.

Photo gallery: stacked wooden doors

The original entrance to the bathhouse is complemented by a simple inlaid door Varnishing the front door makes it more noble A simple door to a bathhouse looks stylish thanks to brutal fittings like this original door for a bathhouse can be made from the remains of clapboard and boards This brutal door is perfect for a rest room

Manufacturing instructions

Required tools:

• jigsaw for leveling the length of boards;
• screwdriver for working with self-tapping screws;
• plane for leveling the thickness of the door leaf;
• clamps for fixing the door leaf while gluing the boards;
• sandpaper for sanding wood;
• hammer drill for drilling holes for hinges and handles;
• feather drills for hammer drills;
• a router with a handle for making grooves;
• tape measure;
• building level;
• mallet;
• calipers.

Necessary materials:

• tongue and groove boards 25–30 mm thick and 2100 mm long (the quantity depends on the desired width of the door and the width of the material itself);
• wooden beam 30x20 mm, which is needed to reinforce the door leaf;
• wood glue for sealing joints;
• wood screws;
• hanging loops (2–3 pcs.);
• handle with a locking mechanism (1 pc.).

Let's look at the manufacturing process of a stacked door standard size 0.8x2 m:

• Cut the boards so that each has a length of 2 m +/- 2 cm. The final alignment can be done after gluing the canvas.
• Assemble the canvas by connecting boards one by one until the width of the canvas reaches 0.8 m or slightly exceeds it. Make sure that the structure is level by placing it on a horizontal plane without bending. If you notice that one corner is raised or a hump has formed, it is better to choose smoother boards for the door. When everything is done correctly, number the boards with a pencil and disassemble the canvas.
• Reassemble the canvas, carefully gluing each groove with wood glue. The boards should be connected one at a time, following the pencil marks. The tightness of the connection is ensured by light blows of the mallet through the block so as not to damage the board.
• Secure the canvas with clamps so that all connections are tightly compressed. The gluing period is indicated on the package of wood glue; it usually ranges from 1 to 5 days. The thickness of the finished canvas, if necessary, is leveled using a plane and sandpaper. After this, a blank is cut out from a single layer to the size of the door - excess fragments are cut off in length and width.
• After this, you should select grooves for the key in the monolithic sheet at a height of 1/3 of the height of the door, counting from the top and bottom edges of the sheet. The shapes of the keys are demonstrated on the general diagram of the inlaid door; only the trapezoidal one is available to beginners.
• If you do not have enough tools or experience to create such a connection well, the key does not need to be recessed. In this case, its fastening is carried out by drilling through holes in the canvas and driving in wooden choppers of slightly larger diameter (dowels). Connecting with self-tapping screws in such cases is extremely undesirable.
• If the design of the web is not rigid enough, you can fasten a diagonal brace (jib) between the dowels using a similar technology.

Finishing interior doors for a bath is carried out with environmentally friendly impregnations, mineral oils, waxes. But it is better to leave the door to the steam room untreated, since there is always a risk that harmful components will begin to be released due to the temperature.

Let's start making the door frame:

• Select a quarter on the blanks of a wooden beam with a cross-section of 11x6 cm. The depth of the cut groove should be equal to the thickness of the door.
• Assemble a box from the timber so that the door leaf fits into the created recess with a gap of 1–2 mm. It is very important to maintain the correct geometry of the box; if the angles are not 90°, the door will not open and close well.
• The frame is installed in the opening with the recess facing outward, so that the gap between the door and the frame is covered with a protrusion. At the same time, heat loss in the bathhouse is minimized. It is important that the opening is noticeably larger than the door frame (3–4 cm on each side). This will make it possible to more accurately align the location of the box and prevent its deformation due to shrinkage of the house or swelling of the material from humidity. To level the position of the box, small wooden blocks are placed.
• The leveled door frame is attached to the wall with anchor bolts (2-3 on each side) or long self-tapping screws through placed bars/wedges.

Let's move on to installing the door leaf in the frame:

• Make markings for the hinges on the door leaf and frame so that the hinges are placed at the same distance from the top and bottom of the leaf (standard - 20 cm). You can attach them at the level of the dowels, and for a heavy structure it is worth adding a loop in the middle.
• Fasten one half of the hinge to the door, and then fix the second half to door frame using screws from the kit or wood screws. For beginners, it is best to choose butterfly hinges, since they do not require making grooves at the attachment points.
• It is better to hang the door with an assistant who will help you align the marks and hold the door while attaching the hinges with self-tapping screws. If you don’t have an assistant, you can place several wedges under the canvas and use them to fix it in the desired position.
• After fixing the hinges, set the handle at a comfortable height. For the front door, you should choose a handle with a locking mechanism, under which a groove is selected in the door leaf custom size(depending on the pen model) Wooden handle in the steam room there is usually an overhead, so you don’t have to choose grooves for it. The most convenient way is to make sure that the hinges are attached correctly and remove the door leaf to insert the door mechanism, and then reattach the door leaf.
• Fill the space between the wall and the box polyurethane foam. After complete drying, the foam must be trimmed so that it does not protrude beyond the edges of the box.
• Decorate the junction of the frame and the wall with platbands of the selected model. You can make them yourself from unedged boards with a live edge, and secure with small nails.

Now your door is ready for active use.

Video: review of the experience of making a stacked door

Paneled wooden doors

Wooden doors with panels are much more difficult to make than composite doors. Here you will have to connect many curved parts together and maintain the geometry very clearly. Therefore, you should take on such work only after you have experience in manufacturing other types of wooden doors.

Since the joints of the parts are especially sensitive to increased humidity and temperature, such models can only be installed in the locker room and rest room. At the entrance to a bathhouse, steam room or shower room, they will last much less than the prescribed period.

Photo gallery: paneled doors for a bathhouse

A steering wheel on the door is a simple way to make it unusual Classic doors with simple panels suitable for dressing rooms and rest rooms By changing the size and proportions of the panels you can create completely different doors A door with asymmetrical panels looks very stylish This door design is the most durable option for a bathhouse.

Video: manufacturing instructions

If manufacturing paneled door If you can’t do it yet, you can order a simple canvas and mount the box yourself. It is made using the same technology as in the case of stacked doors.

Frame wooden doors

A frame door with insulation inside is most often assembled to create an entrance group. It consists of an internal frame divided into cells to accommodate insulation (best stone wool) and outer skin. Its manufacture is a little more complicated than assembling a panel door, but easier than a panel door.

Wooden planks, lining, thin tongue-and-groove boards, MDF panels, and metal sheets can be used as external decorative cladding.

Manufacturing instructions

Required tools:

• drill;
• manual or stationary milling cutter;
• chisel for making grooves for fastening hinges and locks;
• yardstick;
• building level;
• plane for leveling the thickness of the boards;
• hammer/wooden mallet;
• construction stapler;
• sandpaper.

Necessary materials:

• boards for the frame;
• stone wool for thermal insulation;
• wind and moisture protective membrane;
• wood glue;
• wood screws;
• wooden lining for cladding.

Let's consider making a door measuring 1.92x0.82 m for a frame with parameters 2x0.9 m:

• Assemble the frame from 5x11 cm boards, as shown in the figure. Carefully ensure that all angles are 90 degrees.
• Check whether the structure is assembled correctly by placing it on a horizontal plane. If necessary, trim the thickness of the boards and seams with a plane and sandpaper.
• Secure the wind-moisture membrane to the frame using staplers.
• Fill the resulting cells with non-flammable and safe stone wool.
• Cover the structure with a wind and moisture protective membrane on the other side.
• Finish both sides of the door with wooden clapboard, attaching each plank to the frame with a self-tapping screw inside the groove so that its head is completely covered by the next plank.
• If necessary, trim the ends of the door with a plane and sandpaper.
• The gaps formed after assembly can be filled with a mixture of PVA glue and finely ground sawdust (you can make wood flour yourself in a coffee grinder).

If the doors will be at the entrance, you can treat them with stain, high-quality antiseptic and cover them with several layers of varnish.

Manufacturing and installation of glass doors

In the shower and steam rooms of the bathhouse, it is best to install doors made of tempered glass or triplex (glued together from two layers). To manufacture such structures, a specialized machine is required for processing the edges of sheets with large thickness, as well as a furnace for hardening the material after drilling the mounting holes, so it is impossible to make them in artisanal conditions. But you can order the canvas from a glass company and supplement it with fittings yourself and install it in the opening.

Glass doors are always a winning decorative solution, as they give the bath a modern and stylish look. It also maintains the temperature in the steam room well: when the inner side of the fabric heats up to 80 o C, the outer side remains warm to the touch (about 40 o C). In addition, the glass door is an additional source natural light in a small cramped steam room/shower room, where there is not always a separate window.

The transparent glass door of the steam room looks good next to the same shower stall The glass door can be decorated with any sandblasted pattern

Choosing glass

The thickness of the glass should range from 6–12 mm, but the most preferable is 8–10 mm. A thinner fabric will be easier to break, but a thick one will be too heavy and will lead to faster wear of the hinges. The width of the door is limited by the wear resistance of the fittings; experts recommend choosing door leaves no wider than 0.8 m. Such a wide, heavy door will last longer if it is hung on 3 hinges. If you want to fence the steam room glass wall, the door can be made narrower or double-leaf, and the additional panels can be installed permanently. In such cases, the width of the paneling is limited only by the area of ​​the corridor (workers simply will not be able to carry a very wide and high panel inside).

The glass does not have to be transparent; it can be decorated with a sandblasted pattern, or completely frosted. In addition, manufacturers offer colored glasses painted in the mass (throughout the entire thickness of the material): graphite and bronze. There are options made of clear glass, without a greenish tint at the end.

Glass companies also often offer engraving on the canvas, but since such decoration weakens the canvas, it is better not to use it in steam rooms. Options decorated with film, photo printing, and glued fragments should also not be considered, since high temperature and humidity have a bad effect on such decorations.

Installation features

Glass companies produce doors of different types of opening: swing, sliding, pendulum. It is best to give preference to the swing version, since they use the most compact and durable fittings. The use of other mechanisms carries an additional risk of getting burned on the guide.

Before ordering glass door completely decorate the opening to the steam room. Only after this call a measurer and let him take measurements himself with an accuracy of 1 mm. If after such preparation the door does not fit, you will have the right to exchange the door under warranty.

Required tools:

• a screwdriver for installing hinges in the box;
• building level to check the geometry of the box;
• handle with rubber suction cups for working with glass.

If you already know how wooden doors are installed, you only need to familiarize yourself with the main differences:

Video: instructions for installing a glass door

Important to remember

Mandatory details:

Now you can make a beautiful and reliable door for a bathhouse on our own. Follow the instructions and try to perform all actions as carefully as possible, and then new door will delight you for decades with its appearance and impeccable work.

Now you can buy literally everything. The same applies to doors for various buildings and premises: the range of products is such that it will satisfy even the most demanding buyer. But the bathhouse is something special.

The effectiveness of the procedures adopted in it directly depends on the values ​​of humidity, temperature, and their constancy. Therefore, professionals advise that everything that is required for this specific “object” should be produced independently, if possible, without relying on the integrity of the manufacturers. The proposed instructions will explain step by step how to make a door to a bathhouse with your own hands.

The layout of this building is very different; here a lot depends on its dimensions. But at a minimum, any bathhouse has an entrance opening and a passage to the steam room. It is the doors installed in them that have special requirements. The aesthetic component should clearly not be dominant; in the first place is the block’s ability to save heat. IN furniture showrooms a significant assortment of bath doors, differing, among other things, in material. If you read their descriptions, then any of them is the best. But is it worth taking every model you like as a sample?

When making doors for a bathhouse, you need to take into account what material the building is built from. If this is a log house (made of logs, beams), then both the frame and the canvas should be made of wood, and of the same species. The latter is explained by the fact that there will be no differences in deformation coefficients (with changes in humidity, temperature), which means that distortions, gaps, and cracks will not appear. For a brick bath, cellular concrete A metal structure can also be placed at the entrance (but not inside).

Why is wood priority? Its low thermal conductivity, ability to “breathe”, and environmental friendliness are undeniable. But there is one more explanation: it is unlikely that anyone will be able to make a door for a bathhouse with their own hands, for example, from thick glass (for the same steam room). And therefore her home production it is a hopeless matter. Not the best option and thermoplastic, although attractive due to its low cost and ease of processing. Any artificial material, no matter what the manufacturers claim, contains a percentage of “chemicals”. Taking into account the specifics of the bathhouse, it is better not to experiment.

Features of the door to the steam room

The procedure for its manufacture is generally the same as for its wooden counterpart for the entrance. But there are a number of points that must be taken into account.

• The canvas should cover the opening as tightly as possible so that steam does not escape from the room.
• The threshold is low; maximum 50 mm.
• Opening - outwards. Otherwise, the hinges (even the best quality) of the bath door will quickly rust.
• If the bathhouse is heated “in white”, then one door is enough; “in black” – necessarily two.

Preparatory activities

Choosing a wood species

It is better to avoid coniferous wood. Although it is less susceptible to rotting, it contains resins. This means that their fumes cannot be avoided. Therefore, the door to the steam room with your own hands is made of pine, spruce - not The best decision. What is recommended?

Aspen, oak, alder. But experts advise using mainly linden or larch. The first is interesting because when the temperature rises, it releases substances that have a beneficial effect on the body. However, in terms of durability, it is clearly inferior to larch; This tree becomes stronger when wet, therefore it can stand at the entrance to a bathhouse or steam room for years.

Selection of lumber by size (cm)

For solid wood canvas:

• Cross members: timber 6 x 6 (8).
• Door: tongue and groove board, for bathhouse optimal thickness 2.5 – 5. The width is chosen so that you do not have to cut samples to length, depending on the dimensions of the opening.

For prefabricated fabric:

• Box and frame: timber 6 x 4 (6).
• Door: board 12 x 3.5.
• Sheathing: wooden lining, thickness 1.2.

Wood processing

• This mainly applies to hardwood: impregnation with antiseptics is mandatory. Otherwise, in a bathhouse, a wooden door will not last long. There are enough appropriate drugs, but when choosing, you need to familiarize yourself with them component composition. The product used should not be high temperatures release toxic compounds.
• All wooden parts carefully sanded (by machine or by hand).

Taking measurements of the opening

Before determining the required dimensions of the block, you need to perform a number of activities:

• clean the opening. This will make the process of making a bathhouse door with your own hands easier, since the dimensions will be taken as accurately as possible, and you will not have to do any adjustments;
• check the correctness of the geometry and, if necessary, align the opening.

What to consider:

• The height is measured in two places, along the edges of the passage in the wall; width - at several levels.
• If the bathhouse is made of wood, then a door without a frame is not installed. Therefore, its dimensions are taken into account. This is a separate topic and should be studied if necessary.

Some mistakes may be made during the construction process. Therefore, the opening may be slightly wider (higher) than required. You need to know that there are certain sizes of bath doors. They are smaller than similar structures installed at the entrance or inside residential buildings. This is due precisely to the need to reduce heat loss.

If the entrance door to the bathhouse may not correspond to the recommended dimensions, then for the steam room the size of the door is important. What to focus on (in cm)?

• Width: within 65 – 75.
• Height: 165±5. This is a general value, since the threshold must also be taken into account (15 - 20).

Making a door

From the array

Make doors to a bathhouse using this method, without having experience in carpentry, difficult. This is due, first of all, to the figured selection of wood and the accuracy of marking the canvas. The procedure is clearly illustrated by the diagram below.

• The sash elements cut from the board are laid out on a flat “hard” base and adjusted to each other.
• Places for installing dowels are marked to connect parts and strengthen the bath door.
• Arrangement of grooves.
• Manufacturing of crossbars and jib (if provided).
• Assembly of the canvas.

On a note! Such a door for a bathhouse is significant in weight, so the frame must be installed quite massive. Accordingly, select powerful canopies.

Frame structure

Frame assembly:

• Before you put it together, you need to check the dimensions. In a bathhouse, even the densest and best-dried wood will gradually begin to absorb moisture. Therefore, it will swell over time. Therefore, the dimensions of the frame are chosen to be slightly smaller than the opening with a jamb. The recommended gap between them around the perimeter is 5 mm.
• Since the door to the steam room will have to be insulated, it is made prefabricated; You will need 2 frames with identical parameters.
• It is easier to make all connections “overlapping” with additional reinforcement of the door with wooden spikes. As an option - metal corners.

Sheathing

The frame structure consists of two parts. The one that will face the inside of the steam room is finished with a tongue and groove board. But for the second, the cladding material can be chosen from several options: MDF, OSV, chipboard.

Door insulation

The timber used to make frames has a certain thickness; The recommended value is indicated above. All that remains is to lay insulation in one half of the frame. Which? Despite all the advantages of mineral wool, it is hygroscopic, and a steam room in a bathhouse is a room with excess humidity. Therefore, not an option. It is advisable to use sheet polystyrene foam. Cutting and laying it is easy, as is sealing the gaps between it and the frame.

Door assembly

• The second half is placed on the insulated frame and leveled.
• Both parts of the bath door are rigidly fastened (with self-tapping screws).
• The gap around the perimeter of the canvas is carefully sealed. To do this, it is advisable to use a jute cord, on top of which a sealant (heat-resistant category) is applied.

All that remains is to fasten the loops, make decorative finishing outside, and the bath door is ready for installation on site.

• The door to the steam room must swing outwards for safety reasons.
• Considering the specifics of the bathhouse, not every hardware is suitable for fastening structural elements. Parts are selected only from steel with anti-corrosion coating. Otherwise, the rusting process will begin, and cracks will appear around the locations of the fastener heads. dark spots. And the self-tapping screws won’t last long; you will have to repair the box and canvas.
• When assembling the door to the steam room with your own hands, you should not use metal fittings, with the exception of canopies. Considering the room temperature, the iron handle may cause thermal burn; optimally - wooden. The same applies to various elements decor. At least you shouldn’t decorate the door from the inside.
• For all its advantages, wood splits easily. And since it is initially dried for the door, it is not possible to use nails as fasteners. the best choice. Optimally - self-tapping screws (for wood).
• The bath door is quite massive. Therefore, at least three loops are used to secure it.

Independent production and installation of a door in a bathhouse is a process that requires individual approach. There are many differences - in the thickness and material of the walls of the building, practical skills, and financial capabilities. But if, in principle, the order of assembling the block is clear, then it is not difficult to make a bath door according to your own drawings, which will fit well into the wall opening and will reliably retain heat.