During construction or renovation, specialists are increasingly abandoning the classic heating scheme in favor of an innovative floor heating system. Heated floors are a modern, convenient, effective way to make your home warm and comfortable at any time of the year, without disturbing the style of the interior. This technology is widely used in residential, office and industrial settings.
Conventional heating includes radiators, which heat the air only near the window. In this case, as a result of convection, a warm flow rises from the heating devices, gradually cools and falls down, returning along the floor to the radiator. With this heating scheme, the heat distribution is uneven, the most warm place is located near the ceiling, and the cold one is below.
A warm floor consists of a base, a heating element distributed throughout the room, auxiliary elements (sensors, thermostats, couplings) and decorative covering. The floor is heated evenly throughout the room to the same temperature.
Advantages of a “warm” floor:
- large heat transfer area;
- no convection;
- reduction of humidity;
- possibility of regulation in separate rooms;
- environmental friendliness;
- safety (subject to compliance with installation techniques).
On a note: Underfloor heating can be the sole or auxiliary heating system.
Disadvantages of "warm floor":
- clear requirements for finishing;
- high cost of the system and installation;
- the need to dismantle the top covering during repairs.
Classification of heating elements
Depending on the heating element, heated floors are divided into several types, each of which has its own installation features.
Table 1. Types of heated floors
| Properties | Water heated floor | Cable heated floor | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heating element type | Hot water pipes | IR film, IR rods | Cable |
| Installation time | From 4-5 days | 1 day | 1 day |
| Application | Floor | Floor, ceiling, walls. | Floor |
| Repair | Only defective segments can be repaired; the rest of the system works | If a single section is damaged, the entire system fails. | |
| Maintenance | Required | Not required | Not required |
| Zoning | Impossible | Maybe | Maybe |
| Installation cost | High installation costs, low operating costs | High equipment costs, low operating costs | Relatively inexpensive installation, high energy costs |
| Possibility of use in multi-storey buildings | No | Yes | Yes |
| Life time | Up to 50 years old | Up to 15 years | Up to 25 years |
Prices for heated floors Warmstad
warmstad floor heating
Electric heated floors: detailed characteristics
The most common system today is electric floor heating. A variety of cables that convert current energy into heat are a heating element. Installation of thermal insulation, grounding, and installation of thermostats of varying complexity are required. Automatic sensors are capable of turning on power to the system when the temperature drops, and the thermostat maintains the set parameters on the surface. A compact control and adjustment system saves space; connections are made for each room separately.
On a note: system installation electric heating does not require approval if the total power consumption does not exceed 15 kW.
Advantages of electric heated floors:
- This the best option for an apartment (the risks of causing inconvenience to neighbors are minimized; installation does not need to be coordinated);
- heat up quickly when turned on;
- the ability to maintain a constant temperature;
- safety;
- compactness of adjustment devices;
- Ease of Management;
- long service life.
Main disadvantage Such a system means that electricity is expensive; even with high-quality insulation of the premises, operating costs will be significant.
Cable type electric heated floor
To install heated floors, resistive or self-regulating types of cable are used. They are used in rooms with complex layouts, since they can be laid in any configuration.
When choosing the type of cable, the heat transfer power, as well as the area and volume of the room, are taken into account.
In a single-core resistive cable, heat is generated by one conductive core. It heats up quickly and has constant heat transfer along its length; overheating is possible in certain areas. Such a cable is connected to electricity from both sides, i.e. When installing, you need to lay it out in a loop so that the beginning and end meet in one place, or lay another supply wire. This is the most cheap option, but it emits strong electromagnetic radiation.
A two-core resistive cable consists of two cores; one or both are used to generate heat (then the other will be a conductive element). It has two layers of insulation, which eliminates short circuits. A two-core cable is more convenient to use; power is supplied only from one end, and a sealed coupling is installed on the other. It has a higher degree of electromagnetic protection.
Resistive cables are distinguished by their simplicity of design, low price, increased power and stable characteristics over the entire service life. But they are sold in pieces of a certain length, they cannot be cut in any way, so if one section breaks, you have to replace the entire section.
Self-regulating heating cable has a different operating principle and structure. It changes the heating power as the surrounding temperature changes, ensuring uniform heating of the entire floor surface with minimal electricity consumption. The design of such a cable is more complicated: in addition to the current-carrying cores, it contains a polymer semiconductor matrix, which is a heating element and allows you to regulate the temperature. In the event of a breakdown, only a section of the cable can be replaced. This heating element has reliable protection, safe and durable. Possessing significant heating power, the self-regulating cable is economical; when laying, it can be cut into sections of any length. The disadvantage is high price.
Electrical cable systems are widely used in combination with any decorative coating.
Heating resistive mats
The heating mat is a fiberglass mesh base with a two-core cable attached to it. They simplify and speed up the installation of heated floors, since the cable along them is already fixed at a certain pitch. Porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles are ideally combined with this system as a decorative floor, without the need for additional screed, and the heating element is mounted in a layer of tile adhesive. This is a reliable, durable and safe technology for creating heated floors.
It is very convenient to use mats in certain areas - in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the hallway where you take off your shoes. Although they are also used as the only source of heating for the entire room. It is necessary to carefully consider the selection of the power of the mats, high-quality cable and regulators. In order not to waste electricity, you need to choose mats so that at the lowest power they heat the room to the desired temperature.
When choosing quality materials, correct installation and operation, this type of “warm floor” is durable and reliable.
Warm floor infrared operating principle
Infrared flooring is universal and suitable for any type of housing.
It differs in the method of energy transfer; heat transfer occurs through exposure electric current on carbon elements, which creates infrared radiation that heats the floor.
Two types of infrared elements are used:
- film;
- rod-shaped
Film - a thin polymer film, inside of which copper conductive busbars are located and graphite paste is sealed. The thickness of this film is less than 5 mm. The heating intensity is controlled using a regulator.
The great advantage of infrared film is its simple installation. No screed is required, but a layer of heat-reflecting substrate must be laid underneath.
Infrared heated floors are efficient, economical and reliable. The film is characterized high heat transfer with low energy consumption.
The disadvantage of IR film is that it is afraid of overheating (200°C and above), so it is not placed under heavy household appliances and furniture.
Rod infrared mats are tubes filled with a carbon composition, which are connected in parallel to two current-carrying busbars in polymer insulation.
Each rod functions independently, and if one or more of them breaks, the system will still work. Carbon rods self-regulate as temperature changes external environment the amount of heat generated changes. The system must include a thermostat and a floor temperature sensor; if they are not installed, the heating elements will operate constantly at the same power, and this is not economically profitable.
Advantages of rod infrared mats:
- ease of installation;
- efficiency (electricity costs are up to 60% less compared to cable systems);
- versatility of application;
- the ability to combine with any decorative coating;
- environmental friendliness and Fire safety;
- the room warms up quickly and evenly.
The disadvantages are the high price and short service life - up to 10 years.
Calculation of electric heated floor
It is necessary to determine the optimal power of a heated floor in order to ensure a comfortable temperature in the room with minimal electricity costs.
Let's use the formula:
Р= S floor xР 0
where P is the power of the heated floor, W; S floor – usable area of the room, m²; P 0 – specific power, W/m².
The useful area of the room is the area free of furniture and heavy objects, on which a heated floor is laid.
We take the specific power according to the reference table depending on the room; these data are used if the warm floor will be additional heating. For main heating, the power is 160 – 180 W/m².
Table 2. Power density
Let's look at an example. Given: living room on the 2nd floor, area 25 m², furniture occupies 4.2 m². You need to find the power of the heated floor, provided that this is an additional source of heating.
S floor = 25 - 4.2 = 20.8 m²
According to the table we take P 0 = 120 W/m².
P = 20.8x120 = 2496 W
You can also use an online calculator to determine the power of a heated floor.
We consider the technology for laying electric heated floors in our
How to make an infrared heated floor
Step 1. To perform the installation correctly, you need to draw a floor plan of the room, mark the areas where the furniture will be located, and calculate the area where the IR film will be laid. At the same time, you need to know that if the IR system is the only source of heating in the room, then the film should occupy 80% of the area, if an additional one - 40–50%.
On usable area it is necessary to place the sections in such a way that they fill the entire room as much as possible, but do not intersect. An indentation of 15–20 cm is made from each wall. It is optimal to arrange the strips in length (no more than 8 m) in order to minimize the number of connection points; a transverse arrangement is also allowed.
Step 2. When choosing materials, take into account that the power of the film is selected depending on the decorative floor covering, room and type of heating system.
Table 3. Thermal film power
For saunas and industrial use film with a power of more than 220 W/m² is intended.
It is optimal to choose a film with a thickness of 0.3 mm; it is durable and resistant to deformation. For small room It is advisable to purchase material 50 cm wide.
A set of warm infrared floors includes: thermostat, temperature sensors, connecting clips, cables, IR film.
Step 3. The next step is to install the thermostat. The diagram shows the installation location of the thermostat, connecting contacts and sensors. It is placed at a height of 15–20 cm.
To lay the cable, drill a vertical hole in the wall to the point where the thermostat is attached. Electricity is supplied from the nearest outlet; it is better to place the wiring in a plastic corrugated pipe.
On a note: To reduce the length of the wire used, it is recommended to place the thermostat on the wall perpendicular to the direction of laying the strips.
Step 4. The carbon film is mounted on a perfectly flat, cleaned base. The floor must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and the horizontal surface must be checked. The permissible height difference is no more than 3 mm. If necessary, fill the cracks and pour a thin concrete screed or leveling mixture.
Step 5. Laying waterproofing will protect the system from moisture coming from below. To do this, use polyethylene film no thinner than 50 microns, the joints are connected with sealing adhesive tape.
Step 6. Izolon, Penofol, cork backing, and foil coating are used as thermal insulation. The layer thickness should be 3–5 mm. The substrate is placed over the entire area close to the walls, the joints are secured with masking or aluminum tape.
Step 7 Cutting the film into strips the right size. IR film can only be cut in places designated by the manufacturer; the material cannot be cut at an angle.
Step 8 We lay out the strips according to the plan, retreating 10–20 cm from the walls. In this case, the copper busbars are placed at the bottom. The distance between the canvases is 1–2 cm, secured with hot glue or double-sided tape.
Step 9 To connect the cable to the film, special clamps are used. One side of the clamp is placed between the film and the copper strip, and the other on the busbar.
The wires are inserted into the already installed clamp and processed with pliers. The wires to the terminals are mounted in parallel, i.e. the left only with the left, and the right with the right. The connections are insulated and crimped tightly.
Step 10 The wires connecting the heated floor to the network and the thermostat are laid to the wall and hidden in the baseboard.
A groove is made in the thermal insulation, sections of wire protruding above the film are placed there, and secured with tape.
Step 11 The contact points of the electrical wires and the cutting line of the copper bus are insulated with vinyl - with mastic tape on both sides.
Step 12 The temperature sensor is attached to the graphite strip on aluminum tape, as close as possible to the thermostat, but at a distance of at least 50 cm from the wall.
Step 13 The temperature sensor is insulated and connected by wire to the thermostat.
All connections are insulated with special overlays
Video - Instructions for installing infrared heated floors
Water heated floor
Water floor heating is a system of bendable tubes through which hot water circulates, supplied from gas or
Water heating is prohibited from being used in apartments above the first floor, provided that in the basement or ground floor no living quarters. Therefore, it is used in private houses with individual water supply, and in apartment buildings, if the system was originally provided for by the project. The law prohibits unauthorized connection to central heating and hot water supply.
At concrete method pipes are laid under a screed with a thickness of at least 3 mm; decorative flooring can be done no earlier than after 28 days.
If you need to reduce the load on the floors, or the height of the room is limited, use a floor laying system. The pipes are placed on polystyrene foam mats, and a screed is poured on top.
In houses with wooden floors, pipes are laid in wooden grooves.
Despite the complexity of installation, the water floor system is cost-effective and durable. The main disadvantage is the possibility of leakage and difficulty in repair. It is not recommended to use a warm water floor as the main heating in the house.
Video - Installation instructions for hot water
Choosing a heated floor finish
It depends on the purpose of the room, the type of heated floor, budget and personal preferences of the owner. What should you pay attention to?
First of all, not every type of coating is compatible with one or another type of heated floor. For example, parquet is not recommended for use with a cable system due to the risk of overheating and fire.
Ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles are a universal option for any heated floor. It is resistant to impact high temperatures, moisture and dirt. Tile - environmentally friendly material, which does not emit harmful substances even when exposed to high temperatures. It has high thermal conductivity, which means it heats up quickly. For heated floors, it is advisable to choose tiles of small thickness.
When choosing a laminate as a finishing coating, you need to take into account its features. Laminate can be used if the heating elements of the system are distributed evenly over the entire area of the room, and their heating temperature does not exceed 27–30°C.
When purchasing, choose laminate class 32 and higher, optimal thickness boards 8–10 mm.
There should be symbols on the packaging indicating that this material can be combined with warm floors. Low formaldehyde content is designated E0 and E1.
Linoleum and vinyl coating have good elasticity and moisture resistance. With heated floors, thin linoleum without insulation on a smooth base is used. To prevent it from changing its properties, the optimal heating temperature should be no more than 27°C. When choosing this material, it is important to pay attention to the markings.
Using cork in combination with a heated floor is ineffective due to its low thermal conductivity, but if necessary, use a glue-free cork coating.
When choosing carpet for heated floors, preference is given to natural materials, since synthetics release harmful substances when heated. Operating temperature Underfloor heating systems when using carpet are designed 3-5 degrees more. The length of the pile affects the thermal conductivity of the carpet, best choice There will be a thin short-pile carpet made of wool or felt.
When purchasing a decorative floor covering, ask the seller for a certificate this material, which will indicate its detailed characteristics and conditions of use.
A properly selected heated floor can be used with any floor covering. A large number of options for floor heating systems and modern materials allow them to be installed indoors for various purposes and operating conditions. It is important to maintain the power of the heating system and not exceed the permissible operating temperature of the finish coating.
Electric floor
When arranging our homes, each of us tries to create the greatest possible comfort and coziness in ours. Installed heated floors cope with this task perfectly. Typically such work is ordered qualified craftsmen, but the technology for installing heated floors is not so complicated that a home craftsman cannot cope with it. You just need to have some knowledge and desire to do this business.
Heating systems come in several types. By type of support for the functions performed - electric and water. In turn, electric ones can be made of a heating cable, film materials and special heating rods. The peculiarity of using heated floors is that they heat up not only your room, but also the effect of increased temperature on the floor covering.
Therefore, it is necessary to take the choice of flooring materials seriously. They can release harmful substances. In addition, their own insulation technologies may interfere with heating through a radiant floor system. Therefore, you should not lay, for example, linoleum with double insulation on a heated floor.
A water floor can be installed under any available floor covering. There is only a limitation on the installation of the system itself. It must not be placed in apartment buildings, since this violates common system heat supply. If you decide to do this, you need to coordinate the project with utility services. For a private home, this solution is the most optimal in terms of economy, operational safety, and durability.
If you lay thermal film on top soft covering(carpet, linoleum), the base needs to be made more rigid. For this, sheets of plywood or MDF are placed.
If you are interested in installing heated floors on water, you will need additional skills - preparing a solution, installing beacons and logs. To create a concrete screed you need to purchase:
- cement, sand and utensils for making mortar;
- construction beacons;
- rule;
- level.
The work is performed in the following sequence.
- The old coating is removed, the surface is cleaned of dust and debris.
- For a high-quality screed, installation of beacons is required using a level. Then concrete is gradually poured along the beacons and leveled using the rule.
- A thermal insulation layer is laid.
- The pipeline is installed (or the cable is laid).
- The system is filled with concrete.
- The floor covering is being laid.
A second coating of concrete is necessary not so much for strength as for uniform distribution of heat over the surface of the coating. For strength, sometimes wooden logs are used, between which pipes or cables are laid. Drying time for concrete screed is 3-4 weeks. To reduce the time it takes to dry the floor, you can temporarily connect water heating. But its temperature should not exceed 30 degrees.
The truth of the favorite saying of Generalissimo Alexander Vasilyevich Suvorov-Rymniksky “keep your feet warm and your head cold” is confirmed not only by army practice and folk experience, but also by modern official medicine. Traditional radiator heating is not able to ensure proper heat distribution in the room: warm air rises up, but the floor remains cold.
Unlike batteries, floor heating systems allow you to achieve full thermal comfort , improve the well-being of people indoors and reduce the risk of respiratory diseases. The heated air gradually rises upward in a continuous stream, cooling along the way. The temperature is equalized throughout the entire area, there are no drafts, uncomfortable cold or, conversely, stuffy overheated areas. Children and pets enjoy sitting on the warm floor, and they know exactly where it’s most pleasant to lie down.
Electric floor heating: pros and cons
Let's consider the properties of electric heated floors (ETF), including relative to other heating systems: radiator and water heated floors.
Pros:
Uniform and comfortable temperature distribution.
Moisture on the floor dries quickly, which is important in bathrooms, swimming pools, hallways, and winter gardens.
Placing a compact electrical cable in the floor does not require the same height of concrete screed as for a water heating pipe. The design is lighter, inertia is lower, heating occurs faster. The system responds to weather changes with less time delay.
More accurate and simple controls the temperature of each room or zone in comparison with the water floor. Electric heated floors, unlike water systems, do not require complex regulation and seasonal adjustments twice a year.
There is no danger of the coolant freezing. Unlike water, ETP can be used in country houses with periodic accommodation. By installing automation and remote control, you can not be afraid to cool down the dacha after warming it up by a certain time. If in country house There is running water, partial heating so as not to defrost, in the absence of people you can only use a bathroom.
Warm electric floors are the most durable heating system, requiring virtually no maintenance during their entire service life, which is at least half a century.
When heating with electricity, combustion products are not released and oxygen is not consumed.
If a warm electric floor is used as the main source of heating, there is no need to allocate a separate room for the boiler room. Communications and control units take up very little space.
Electric floor heating can be installed without dismantling old screed and coatings. Due to its minimal thickness, it is indispensable for the reconstruction of residential and public premises, where work needs to be carried out quickly, with minimal costs and alterations.
Investments in the installation of electric heated floors, both in equipment and in installation, in several times lower than in water heating systems of similar power.
At correct connection ETP is absolutely safe for humans and animals.
Even if the heating element is accidentally damaged, it is not difficult to find exact location break and restore the chain by dismantling small area coverings. If the water floor is damaged, the consequences will be much more serious.
Minuses:
Electricity cost includes the costs of its production and delivery to the place of consumption. The costs of the same amount of thermal energy obtained by direct combustion of fuel and produced by heating thermal elements with electricity will always be not in favor of electricity. It is cheaper to heat with wood and gas.
However, the amount of heating costs consists not only of heating costs, but also of maintenance costs. Modern hydronic heating systems also consume electricity, boilers require annual maintenance, and pumps and fans periodically need repair or replacement. There are no moving elements in an electric floor heating system, there are significantly fewer reasons for malfunctions, and they are easier and cheaper to fix.
Not everywhere it is possible to connect electric heating of the required power to the power grid. This is not a drawback of the heating system, but of domestic networks, which do not always meet modern requirements. Availability of working grounding Necessarily.
Discussions continue that supposedly electromagnetic radiation emanating from heating elements (cables or plates) can harm human health. Position official medicine is as follows: the level of radiation generated by the heated floor does not exceed the values characteristic of conventional electrical wiring and household appliances. Acceptable by safety standards, but still unwanted, electromagnetic background is recorded only within a few centimeters of the heating cable. But this statement is true only for inexpensive single-core cable without protective screen, laid with uniform spacing. It is enough to place it at different intervals, alternating a small step (up to 20 mm) with a large distance (from 40 mm), so that the amount of radiation is noticeably reduced. And modern two-core shielded cable systems are recognized as absolutely safe from this point of view.
Like water heating systems, electric heated floors contribute reduction of humidity air in the house. This is not always a good thing, and is often harmful in our climate, especially in winter, when the air humidity outside is minimal. A humidifier, regular watering of house plants, and an aquarium will help optimize humidity. You should not place any type of heated floor under the keyboards. musical instruments(piano, grand piano) and furniture made of solid wood, the legs of which are closed with a blind base.
Once again about the economy
Let's return to the question of the cost of heating costs. Despite the fact that it is more expensive to heat a house with electricity, EHP under certain conditions can compete with gas. But in order to talk about the economic feasibility of using heated floors as the main heating system, the building must be well insulated. In particular, detailed calculations and many years of practical research were carried out by Danish heating engineers and builders. As a result, they came to the conclusion that when effective insulation enclosing structures of the house and reducing heat loss through external walls and windows by 2.5 times compared to existing standards, electric floor heating is economically justified even in gasified villages.
If we are talking about areas where there is no gas pipeline, the difference will be much more significant. Today in Western Europe quite a lot of energy-efficient residential and public buildings are being built (and their share is growing), in which the main heating system is warm electric floors. To achieve the required characteristics, the thickness of the insulation must be large enough. So, in Finland, not the most warm country around the world, frame houses with a total thickness of insulation are increasingly being built 30-40 cm and ETP. Construction is not cheap, but investments in the heating system are minimal.
To calculate accurately the cost of heating a room or house ETP in our conditions, again, you need to know the heat loss. But, if very roughly, then in the central regions of Russia in modern house with average insulation, heating a kitchen of 14 m2 with a heating area of 10 m2 and a system power of 1.5 kW per day will approximately be spent 10 kW/h. At a cost of 1 kW/h 2.5 rubles - 750 rubles per month. This is the expense in winter months, in the off-season it will, of course, be lower. But real costs will directly depend on the degree of insulation of the house.
As for the prices of equipment, it is determined by the type, brand, and area. The smaller it is, the more expensive the ETP is, because the price of a thermostat is the same for a small and large room. The price range is quite wide: from 1500 to 5000 rubles per m2.
Power selection
Additional heating. Typically used in city apartments with central system heating. To create additional comfort, especially in the off-season, in bathrooms, kitchens and loggias, it is enough to make a calculation based on the value in 110-140 W for every meter of heated area. It is irrational to combine electric and water heating systems in one building if there is an individual heat generator (boiler).
Basic heating. Let’s make a reservation that an adequate calculation can be made by a heating engineer who will fully take into account all the heat losses of the building and accurately determine the needs for thermal energy. For a house with enclosing structures, the heat transfer of which complies with current domestic standards, in the central regions of Russia you can focus on average figures of 1 50-180 W/m2. The better the house is insulated, the lower the calculated power consumption will be.
What does a floor heating system consist of?
The floor heating system consists of the heating elements themselves and control: a temperature sensor and an automatic regulator (thermostat), through which the connection to the electrical network is made.
Heating elements
Heating elements: cables, films and rods convert electrical energy into heat. The latter are rarely used and mainly in industrial buildings, and films for floating floors. Often a separate group is heating mats, which are a special case of using a cable that, for ease of use, is pre-fixed on a flexible reinforcing mesh. It is believed that to achieve a comfortable temperature in a room, it is enough that the heated areas occupy approximately 70% floor area.
In turn, heating cables are divided into resistive, zonal and self-regulating.
Resistive cable
The most common and inexpensive. It is characterized by high speed and constant thermal energy of heating. The heating core of a resistive cable is made of a material (usually nichrome) with maximum electrical resistance, unlike conventional cables for electrical wiring. By overcoming resistance, it stands out thermal energy. The protective shield prevents radio interference and minimizes electromagnetic radiation. By the way, not all resistive cables are equipped with a screen; cheap ones do not have one.
Available for sale single and double core resistive cables. The conductor in the two-core is looped and the cable is connected to the thermostat only on one side. In a single-core one, you have to connect both ends, which complicates its installation, although it costs a little less.
Resistive cable can be used both indoors and outdoors for heating porches and paths.
Zone cable
Special case resistive, jumpers in the cable divide it into separate heating segments independent from each other. The cable can be cut to length. Zone cable is more expensive than usual and is more often used for heating pipelines.
A distinctive property of a self-regulating cable: the lower the temperature environment, the higher the degree of heating and vice versa. This is the only type of ETP heating element that can be used autonomously, without a thermostat. Due to this property, the cable is often used during anti-icing measures to warm up pipes, drains, and in places where it is difficult to correctly install a temperature sensor. The cable is two-core, the conductors have low resistance, heating is carried out in a polymer semiconductor matrix placed between them. Just like resistive, it can have a protective braided sheath.
safe from the point of view of overheating, it can be placed under furniture, laid under capricious coverings made of solid and laminated wood or based on wood fibers: parquet, laminate. The only negative is the high cost. Heating mats
The heating mat is polymer mesh, on which the cable is glued like a snake, almost always a two-core resistive one. The mesh often has an adhesive coating that facilitates its fixation to the base. The price is higher than a similar cable, installation is easier.
Heated floor regulator (thermostat)
Without a thermostat, only heating based on a self-regulating cable can work, and then with certain restrictions. Other systems need management. The heated floor controller includes a temperature sensor, which sends a signal to the thermostat, which supplies or turns off power to the heating element. The desired heating temperature can be set manually or programmed taking into account the day of the week and time of day.
Floor design
The coating of the cable ETP should be a material good heat transfer: ceramic or porcelain tiles, a natural stone. You can use linoleum carpet covering, laminate with the “snake” icon (designed for heated floors), but the heating efficiency will be reduced. If you want to install a warm floor under parquet that is suffering from drying out, you should pay attention to infrared film floors. Although, there are also options for cable systems for “floating” coverings: laminate, parquet boards.
There are two main designs of floors with cable electric heating.
Option 1. To ensure that thermal energy does not go down into the ceiling or ground, there must be a effective insulation . If necessary, from below - concrete preparation and waterproofing. If a warm floor is the main heating system, the insulation layer should be large enough: for floors on the ground - at least 10 cm(the more the better), by overlap - 5 cm. Insulation must be used non-absorbent and quite rigid: foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam high density. A concrete (cement-sand) screed should be placed on top of the insulation. Heating cable monolith in the screed layer. It is not recommended to make a cement-sand screed thinner than 2 cm; thicker than 5 cm, too, it will take too long to heat up the floor.
Option 2. Used in cases where the ETP is additional heating and it is not possible to arrange a full-fledged screed with insulation. As a rule, these are city apartments, where the thickness of the floor cannot be increased, and often there is already a screed. In this case, use a type of insulation that will fit in height. In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, minimum thickness which can be 10 mm, there are also thinner ones: dense polyethylene foam, Teploizol panels, etc. Preference should be given foil insulation, or lay additional foil, with the mirror layer facing up. Insulation and foil are glued to the base.
Heating cable diameter 4-6 mm, this is enough to place it directly into the layer of tile adhesive during the flooring process.
If there is no headroom and significant reconstruction of the floor is not possible, the cable or mat can be laid directly By old tiles , veneer the top with new. The floor level will increase as a result by 2 cm.
Installation procedure
Before starting work, we recommend making a diagram for yourself of the placement of ETP elements: cable layout, location of the sensor and connecting couplings. It is very important to ensure that the cable is didn't bend over backwards, otherwise the integrity of the conductor may be compromised. The order of work is approximately as follows:
It is necessary to prepare for the installation of the thermostat and sensor: install a mounting box for the thermostat into the wall and make a groove (approximately 25x25 mm) from the box to the floor for laying the cable and sensor.
Prepare a section of the floor for installation, attach a special perforated mounting tape (sold separately) to it and secure the cable to it. The step must be calculated in advance by checking the diagram and taking into account the cable length.
If a mesh is used, roll it out over the base, cutting where necessary. The mesh is not attached; an adhesive composition is applied to it.
Next, install the floor sensor. It is brought from the thermostat into the floor between the turns of wire, having previously been placed in a corrugated tube-casing for electrical wiring. The end of the tube is flattened so that the solution or tile adhesive does not get there later. The protective tube is needed so that if the sensor breaks, it can be replaced.
Attention! The placement of the sensor in the tube cannot be neglected, as is our custom. Sensor failure is not such a rare malfunction. If you place the sensor without a shell directly in concrete, to replace it you will have to dismantle (hollow) a section of the floor. And if there is a tube, just pull out the old one and insert a new one, having first removed the regulator.
In accordance with the floor design, fill the cable cement-sand mortar or lay the tile on top, covering it with a layer of tile adhesive. If a mosaic is laid on the floor, the layer of adhesive for which should be minimal, you will have to make a preliminary thin-layer screed, also from tile adhesive. When it hardens, immediately and before laying the mosaic, cover it with plastic film so that it gains strength and does not dry out.
Attention! When installing an ETP, you need to use only elastic tile adhesive, the packaging of which indicates that it is intended for heated floors.
We connect the cable through the thermostat to the power supply. A separate line should be drawn from the meter to the thermostat, calculating the cable cross-section according to the power of the ETP, through a residual current device (RCD) with a leakage current no higher 10 mA. At the same time, the apartment or house must have working grounding with a spreading resistance no higher than 4 Ohms. After maintaining the required period for the screed to gain strength, we test the system.
Attention! You can turn on the ETP no earlier than 30 days after making the screed or laying the tiles, when cement composition will gain the necessary strength.
- The heating cable should not be laid under equipment that must subsequently be attached to the floor: toilets, bidets, built-in furniture, etc.
- There is no need to place the ETP under kitchen or other furniture with a closed base. This does not apply to a self-regulating cable.
- If the warm floor is the main heating, it is recommended to make the cable pitch closer to the cold outer wall.
The installation of heated floors is carried out using special heating electric cables. As a rule, underfloor heating is installed under stone or tiled floors in bathrooms, toilets and living rooms. When installing a heated floor, there is no need for other types of room heating.
If there is a heated floor in the house, warm air is distributed from bottom to top throughout the entire volume of the room almost perfectly. The average room temperature can drop by 2-3 °C without causing discomfort to the people living in it. In practice, this means savings in heating costs of 10% to 15%.
Warm floor: scheme and technology
Electric floor heating is carried out using special high-resistance wires with a temperature sensor and a thermoregulation system.
The electrical elements of the heating system are mounted on the surface of the concrete floor and, after installation, are filled with mortar or covered with an appropriate coating.
Only the power electrical cable and temperature controller are routed beyond the floor; the presence of thermostats in each room allows you to adjust the temperature depending on need, and reinforced insulation makes electric heating absolutely safe.
The efficiency of electric floor heating will be much higher if the field is thermally insulated before laying the cable. Expanded clay concrete, foam layers, stone mineral wool and other heat-insulating materials are used as thermal insulating materials.
Cables are secured to the floor using special mounting tape or quick-drying glue. The heating cable is laid in a zigzag pattern in lines parallel to each other, at intervals of multiples of 2.5 cm; 10 cm; 12.5 cm, etc.
Electric floor heating, for all its advantages, has a number of disadvantages. Thus, it is impossible to use electric heating in places with possible penetration of moisture, as this becomes unsafe.
In addition, the use of electric heating requires special permission from the energy supply organization. During the autumn-winter peak period, interruptions in the electrical supply to certain regions are possible, so backup heating should be provided. Doesn't have these shortcomings water heating floor.
Floor heating using heating cables
When installing such a floor, a multilayer special heating electric cable serves as a heat-carrying element. On Russian market You can find a large number of heating electric cables from various manufacturers.
Cables differ in power, diameter, etc.
The temperature of the heating cable laid under the floor is controlled by a thermostat.
A heating system installed under the floor can be used as the main source of heat or as an additional source of heat in the room, the so-called warm floor. If you intend to use such cable system as the main source of heating in the room, please note that its power should be significantly higher than the power of the floor heating system.
When installing the cable on a concrete screed 3-5 cm thick, use a cable with a power of 18 W per 1 linear meter, for any floor covering. When installing the heating system on wooden floor a cable with a power of 10 W per 1 linear meter is used, the cable is installed in the gap under the floor.
Average installed power heating system should not exceed 80 W per 1 sq. meter. This power is quite enough to heat your home.
The installation of a heated floor system can be done on a finished floor. In this case, the floor level will be raised by 4-5 cm.
Underfloor heating under tiles
If you need to install a heating system under the tiles being laid, but you do not have the opportunity to raise the floor, it is recommended to use a heating cable laid in a mesh specially offered for this purpose.
A cable with a diameter of 2.5 mm is laid in a so-called mat having a width of 0.5 meters and a length of at least 4 meters. The power of such a cable per 1 m2 is 100 W, which allows for comfortable heating of the tiled floor. In this case, additional thermal insulation is not laid, otherwise the solution connecting the tiles will lose strength due to overheating.
The single-core heating cable is well shielded and is not afraid of water. The so-called “warm mat” is laid on the base. If it is necessary to turn the cable, an incision is made into the mat mesh.
After the system is practically installed, a floor temperature sensor is placed in it, placed in a corrugated protective tube. After this, the installed thermostat is connected to the cable and to the sensor, and a tile is placed on top of the solution.
For identification, each type of cable has an alphanumeric marking and also differs in color. The power range of thermostats included in the system is up to 3.5 kW.
Heated floor installation and connection
Preparing for laying heated floors. First of all, it is necessary to supply power to the heated floors. It is better to do this in a separate electrical group using a residual current device (RCD) - if the house (apartment) has grounding.
The ends of the power wires (use copper wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2) are placed in an installation box - a thermostat for heated floors will then be installed in it. A standard installation box Ø 68 mm – “socket box” – is suitable.
After the box with the supply wire is fixed in the wall, a groove is made from it to the floor for the outgoing wires - the wires of the heating cable (heating mats) and the temperature sensor will be laid in it.
The groove should have sufficient depth and width to fit one corrugated pipe Ø 20 mm into it, but it is better to lay two of them at once - in this case, a separate corrugated pipe can be used for the temperature sensor with wires, and if it malfunctions, it can later be easily replaced , keeping the floors intact.
Before laying heated floors, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation. This important detail of heated floors is designed to prevent unnecessary heat leakage downwards, which is especially important for apartments on the first floors.
The thermal insulation layer is laid on a surface that has been cleared of construction debris and dust and has been pre-treated with glue. concrete base floor. To contact the floors with the cement-concrete screed in the thermal insulation layer, small cuts should be made through arbitrary, equal distances.
Next, you should secure the mounting tape to the floor. It must be secured at equal distances (30 - 50 cm), depending on the pitch of the heating cable (h) - the smaller the laying pitch, the correspondingly smaller the distance between the strips of the mounting tape should be. IN concrete floor It is best to fasten the tape with dowel nails.
Laying heated floors. First of all, we calculate the step of laying the heated floor. This calculated value is determined by the formula: h = (S·100)/L, where S is the area of the room on which the heated floor will be laid, L is the length of the heating cable.
Having determined the installation step, you can begin laying the heated floor. The heating cable is attached to mounting tape with the help of its folding fixing petals. We also attach the corrugated pipe of the sensor, not forgetting to plug its end - to prevent the solution from getting inside.
In this case, we consider laying a heated floor with a single-core heating cable (see figure). When using a two-core heating cable, the installation process is simplified, since there is no need to return the other end to the box. However, it should be noted that the cost of such a cable is always higher than a single-core one, regardless of the manufacturer.
That's it, installation is complete, we measure the ohmic resistance of the heating cable - it should be equal to that indicated on the coupling -5...+10%. After applying the cement-sand screed and after it has completely hardened (28 days), we repeat the measurement.
Connecting a heated floor
After laying the heated floor and measuring the resistance of the heating cable, it needs to be connected, there should not be any difficulties. The connection is made in a previously prepared installation box - on the thermostat.
Marking for switching on the thermostat: L – phase wire, N – neutral wire, PE – ground wire.
The installation of heated floors is carried out using special heating electric cables. Typically, underfloor heating is installed under stone or tile floors in bathrooms, toilets and living rooms.
When installing a heated floor, there is no need for other types of room heating.
Few people like to walk barefoot on the floor when outside the window subzero temperature Therefore, floor insulation has been one of the most popular services for several years now.
At one time, radiators were used for these purposes, but they have a number of disadvantages: the air rises to the ceiling, but remains cool at floor level. And the space near the wall, where there are no radiators, heats up poorly. A warm floor guarantees uniform heating of the entire room and this contributes to comfortable living. It is not difficult to do heating with your own hands.
Warm floors guarantee uniform heating of the entire room and promote comfortable living.
You can make heated floors with your own hands in two ways - electric heating and water heating. Heating by an electrical system has the advantage that it can be adjusted. For this, a thermostat is used with which you can set any temperature for the heated floor, and all this is subsequently maintained through special automation. If heating is done in this way, then this provides a complete guarantee of safety and there will be no malfunctions - at the slightest malfunction, the system automatically turns off. The only downside is that it consumes a lot of electricity. But electrically heated floors can be laid without difficulty.
Before installation, you need to determine the location where the thermostat will be installed. For these purposes, a hole is hollowed out in the wall and a installation box, this is done at a height of up to 1 m. Then a network is connected to the installation site of the box electrical supply and grounding.
Installation is carried out as follows: the floors are dismantled, the surface is leveled and a concrete screed is made. A layer (thermal insulation material) is placed on top of the concrete, this prevents heat from escaping downwards. All this work can be done with your own hands without any difficulty; for this you need to have the most basic skills. Now you need to apply the heating cable and shield it by placing it in a steel film. This is done in order to further protect the cable from damage, and also to reduce electromagnetic radiation in the heating system.
The cable must be heated to 55 degrees, thus guaranteeing fire safety. It is noteworthy that when using such a system, you can use any floor coverings, which you can lay with your own hands. However, you should not lay too thick carpet on the floor, and you should also refrain from using carpets with a thick rubber base. These coatings are less efficient for heating.
This is available both to residents of private houses and to residents of city high-rise buildings. The system is simple - there is no installation procedure for pipes, they do not need to be connected to the heating supply, you just need to lay an electrical cable and connect it to electrical network. Heating such a system does not require any permits.
To make such a system easier to control, it is worth giving preference to programmable thermostats. This will ensure that the electric heating system is only used when there are people in the house, so no electricity is wasted. This completes the installation of electric heated floors and there is no doubt that even in the coldest weather the house will always be warm and cozy. This is especially important when there are children in the house. To install this floor you need the following tools:
- perforator;
- hammer;
- mounting tape;
- corrugated hose
Water analogue
The heating element for water heating is a pipe made of polymer materials, through which it's hot water. Heated floors made in this way are different high efficiency and reliability. In order to insulate floors in this way, you will need pipes long length, which will ensure a more uniform distribution of heat over the entire surface, and the temperature in the heater can be at a low level. It should be noted that the water temperature should not exceed 55 degrees.
In a water heating system, metal-plastic pipes are most often used, the diameter of which is 14-25 mm and the thickness is up to 2.7 mm. The advantage of such pipes is that they are not subject to rust and bend easily, which is an important quality when installing them yourself. The pipes should be laid at a distance of 10-35 cm from each other, and the pipe should be at a distance of 7 cm from the wall.
This water heating scheme is installed as follows: the base is covered thermal insulation material(if the floor borders on a basement or ground, then it is necessary to lay double waterproofing, which will prevent moisture from entering the heating system). Now it is necessary to lay down the “system slabs”, and pipes are laid between them. After installation and laying of pipes, the entire network is filled with concrete. Floors with this type of heating are very durable. If we talk about prices, the cost of a water-heated installation is higher than that of an electric system. However, water heated floors do not require a large amount of electrical energy. In order for such a system to function smoothly, it is necessary to ensure the circulation of water through the pipes, for which a water pump is used. To install such floors, permission from housing and communal services will be required.
This heating system is best used in country houses, because in a city apartment there may be problems associated with installation and connection to the network central heating. To install heated floors under these conditions, you will need the following tools:
- tube mounts;
- dowel-nails and self-tapping screws;
- beacon profile;
- perforator;
- hammer;
- putty knife;
- metal scissors;
- metal ruler.
Installation of heated floors is carried out on any base - straight and dry. Before installing heated floors, you must remove all the furniture from the room and then tear off the old floor coverings.
Sometimes it is necessary to carry out leveling work, this is done using a concrete screed. It is necessary to mark those places where there is furniture that is difficult to move, and prepare the place where the thermostat, battery outlet and electrical supply will be installed. When laying a layer of thermal insulation (foam plastic can be used in this capacity, cork panels or expanded polystyrene), then after installation it must be secured with tape. The concrete screed, which is placed on top, should not exceed 1 cm in thickness. This is done so that the wiring does not come into contact with the thermal insulation, as a result of which overheating may occur and the cable will break. If there is under the floor warm room