Bulk polymer floors are a very popular and practical coating that has a lot of advantages. They are a liquid polymer mass, which is poured onto the base, and after hardening becomes even and durable. The presented material can be used at home, as well as at industrial facilities.
Among the advantages of self-leveling floors are the following:
- The absence of joints and seams, which reduce the decorative properties of the coating.
- High degree of environmental cleanliness.
- Tightness.
- Resistance to moisture, biological factors, corrosion.
- High level of strength.
- Choice of different shades and textures.
- Hygiene, so you can pour the mixture even in children's rooms and hospital rooms.
- Easy to clean, and you can use various detergents (even chemical ones) to clean the floor.
- Antistatic.
- Resistance to temperature difference. The presented coating is able to withstand fairly high temperatures.
- The possibility of pouring the mixture with your own hands.
Visually about the advantages of coverage will tell the video:
As for the disadvantages, there are only a few of them: a rather high cost of the material, as well as an unusually difficult dismantling of the polymer layer.
Classification of polymer coatings
Before you start pouring the mixture with your own hands, you need to decide what they are:
According to the material used
- . They are characterized by low cost, good hardness and strength. However, under strong mechanical stress, they are capable of cracking, as they are considered quite brittle;
- . They are resistant to temperature changes, can withstand heavy loads and do not crack even after a strong impact. However, their cost is quite high;
- Methyl methacrylate. Such floors are quite difficult to fill with your own hands, while they harden extremely quickly (in 25 hours). Due to this property, the period of repair of the floor is significantly reduced. However, they also have some disadvantages: poor resistance to the negative effects of chemicals.
depending on layer thickness
- Thin-layer. Most often they are used to equip garages, parking lots, storage rooms. The layer thickness in this case is only 0.25-0.4 mm. Such a coating practically does not exfoliate during a point impact, and is also able to withstand traffic;
- Medium thickness - 1.5-2.5 mm. Used in industrial premises and commercial buildings. They are quickly assembled and hardened. Such mixtures have a rich range of shades;
- Thick-layer. The layer thickness is 5-8 mm.
Depending on properties
- Cement-polyurethane. The thickness of the coating in this case is 5-8 mm. They are used in those premises where very strict requirements are imposed on cleanliness, for example: in the kitchen, in the food industry, medical laboratories. Such a coating performs its functions well in a fairly wide temperature range: from -40 to +1200 °C;
- Antistatic. These floors are ideal for photo studios, electronics manufacturing shops, research labs;
- Frost-resistant. They have a small thickness, and can be used in those rooms where there is high humidity and low temperature;
- Highly filled. They have a maximum thickness of 5-10 mm. The mixture contains quartz sand, which allows the coating to withstand heavy loads;
- Deactivated. Most often they are used in buildings where work is carried out with nuclear reactors.
Pouring technology
Necessary tools and materials for installation
In order to mount, it is necessary to assemble such devices and materials:
Preparatory work
You can pour the mixture with your own hands, but the surface of the base should be well prepared before that. In most cases, polymer blends can even out significant height differences, but it is better not to have them. If there are any defects, chips, protrusions in the base, then it is advisable to remove them.
We have a very detailed video here about all the nuances of preparing the base for pouring the self-leveling floor:
In order for the fill to "take" well, the base must be processed with sandpaper. In addition, the floor should be covered with a primer solution. Subsequently, the filled layer cannot be dismantled independently without special equipment, so it must be poured very carefully and carefully.
Pouring a draft and finishing layer
To fill the polymer floor with your own hands, you need to perform several steps:
When pouring the second layer of the mixture, it is necessary to leave a technological gap around the perimeter of the room. It will subsequently be filled with a special sealant designed for polymer coatings.
More clearly about the technology of self-editing in the video material:
As you can see, installing such a floor covering with your own hands is quite simple, even if the master has no experience working with such a mixture. However, all work should be done carefully and carefully.
When planning an independent arrangement of a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done with the highest quality so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.
Bulk polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.
The thickness of the fill in this case ranges between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is not advisable to make the layer thicker, because this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Scope of application - residential and public buildings.
| Types of self-leveling floors | Characteristics of self-leveling floors | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Thin layer floors | thickness 250-300 microns | Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors subjected to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dusting, giving a decorative appearance. |
| thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50% | Self-leveling self-leveling floors are arranged in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, repairable. | |
| Highly filled floors | thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85% | Highly filled floors suit in conditions with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. These floors are characterized by particularly high impact and wear resistance. By properties they are close to polymer concretes. |
| Self-leveling, colorless epoxy | Density 1.10. Ratio A:B - 100:60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%. | A two-component, colorless, solvent-free epoxy system for high strength decorative topcoats. |
| General purpose epoxy filler | Density 1.50. Ratio A:B - 100:10. Lifetime 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%. | Two-component, colored epoxy mortar for leveling and finishing polymeric coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating. |
| Conductive epoxy grout | Density 1.65. Ratio A:B -100:10. Lifetime 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%. | Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete bases in warehouse, production, installation and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity. |
| Polyurethane floor | Density 1.45. Ratio A:B - 100:20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%. | These coatings, which are based on a heterochain polymer, are hard-elastic, i.e., with high mechanical strength, they have a sufficient resource of elasticity. They arrange polyurethane flooring in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. According to the layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and impact loads. The polyurethane coating can be given various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip). |
Among the other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:
- wear resistance;
- dustlessness;
- immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
- a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
- no smell when laying;
- the possibility of drawing 3D-drawings.
Note! The quasi-3D image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, the finish coating is applied (more on this at the end of the article).
Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.
Stage 1. Preparation
The arrangement of a self-leveling floor made of polymers begins with preparatory work.
wooden base
Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is removed, decorative elements (such as skirting boards, cornices) are dismantled.
Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. To remove small debris, you can use a vacuum cleaner, and to remove glue and remnants of the old coating - a grinder. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.
Step 3. This is followed by preliminary preparation of the base. At the same time, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, a tree, then the base should be pre-sanded, all cracks puttied, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.
If there is no difficulty in disposing of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special tools for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which simultaneously protect the surface from fungus formation.
Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is measured using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer fill will come out of poor quality.
The concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.
Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is above 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine the humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed and pressed tightly on the floor, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.
Moisture meter for concrete floor
Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface is struck with a hammer. If the concrete did not crumble, and the chisel left barely noticeable traces, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.
Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work on creating a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.
Moreover, with poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later destroy it.
Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.
If the polymer floor will be poured onto the tile, then its voidness is first checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive dries). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the voids formed must be puttied.
After that, the surface is degreased.
Stage 2. Level difference
This concept is used to denote the difference in height between the highest and lowest points of the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is poured with a mounting leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.
If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then the surface will need to be filled with a corrective mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).
Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures, you can use a special leveling mortar intended for this thickness.
Stage 3. Materials and tools
After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. For work you will need:
- polymer leveling mixture;
- deep penetration primer mixture;
- putty knife;
- building level;
- doctor blade;
- electric drill with mixer nozzle m;
- needle roller;
- container for preparing the solution.
Stage 4. Primer
For applying the primer layer, it is better to use a roller. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.
Here are the main functions of priming:
- improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
- improved adhesion to the base;
- preventing air bubbles.
If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied before each of them.
Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.
You also need to remember that primers are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below + 15ᵒС, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.
A minimum of 24 hours is required for the primed surface to dry completely.
Stage 5. Thermal compensation
One of the most important elements of the filler floor is a thermal expansion joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, wooden slats are taken (necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent deformation of the floor during significant temperature changes.
Stage 6. Solution preparation
The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the fill will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation the solution must be poured as soon as possible, because it solidifies in a few minutes.
Note! Humidity in the room during pouring should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.
All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid too rapid heating of the solution, the container can be placed in another, larger one, filled with cold water.
All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speed (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:
- a small ring is cut out of the deodorant cap and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
- the ring is filled with a solution and rises;
- with a uniform spread of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.
Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.
Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor
Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.
Step 1. The first portion of the solution is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the solution is leveled with a spatula.
Note! The whole room is poured immediately, otherwise there will be drops.
Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller - this is necessary to remove air.
Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.
Step 4. 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.
Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start at room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3ᵒС per day.
Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.
There are two ways to create a decorative layer:
- put the finished image in advance;
- make a drawing on the cover.
In the first case, you will need acrylic paints that are resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This is a simpler and cheaper way, because today you can buy the image you like in the form of a printout on a plotter (in this case, a banner fabric is taken for the base). When arranging, the fabric is covered with a thermally insulating vinyl film to increase the service life.
The dimensions of the image should exceed the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to glue it.
Video -
The technology for creating a 3D image is as follows.
Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take a day to polymerize the primer layer.
Step 2. The image is glued to the primer and rolled with a dry, clean roller. It is characteristic that you can only move on the floor in special studded shoes.
Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This happens in the same way as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with a transparent varnish.
The complete readiness of the polymer floor for operation is determined by the drying of the varnish.
Video - Pouring polymer floors
So, you have made the right decision by choosing a self-leveling polymer coating for your floor. From this article you will learn that only at first glance it seems that the creation of a self-leveling floor is a difficult task. In fact, the material used in the arrangement of the floor is elastic and easy to fit. As a result, you will be able to get a high-quality, wear-resistant and beautiful coating for long-term use, which will not let you doubt the correctness of the choice.
Of all the polymer floor coverings used in residential areas, we recommend. In addition to being safe for health, durable and reliable, it is also one of the lightest, warmest, most elegant and can have the most diverse color. Such floor perfectly will be suitable for your apartment, giving or garage.
Now we need to decide on the thickness of your future floor. The thickness of the self-leveling floor varies from 1 to 10 mm and depends on the level of loads. For residential premises and a garage, the ideal thickness recommended by experts will be 2 mm, while the consumption self-leveling floor MultiProtect will be: 2.4 kg / m2 (for apartments, offices, administrative premises) and 1.8 kg / m2 + 0.9 kg / m2 of dry quartz sand fraction 0.1-0.3 (for garages, utility and household premises ). With less thickness your floor will not be practical, and with more it will be uneconomical.
You will also need a minimum set of tools (some of them you can even not buy, but rent) and, of course, the material itself polymer self-leveling floor MultiProtect. Of the tools you will need:
1. To prepare the subfloor:
- two-meter rail (rule)
- metal brush
- brush
- roller
- cuvette
- scraper
2. For laying the self-leveling floor material:
- low-speed drill (approx. 400 rpm) with a special agitator
- squeegee with a fixed gap for even distribution of material over the surface
- needle roller (2-4 pcs.) to remove air bubbles
- spatula for convenient distribution of material at doors, in corners, under radiators, etc.
3. Additional materials may be needed:
- solvent for degreasing the base of the self-leveling floor
- quartz sand for the manufacture of repair mortar, necessary for the elimination of minor defects in the subfloor
So you and I have decided on the type of flooring, decided how thick your future floor will be, stocked up on tools and material, and now we can safely begin work on its arrangement.
1. Preparation of the base for the self-leveling floor
The self-leveling polymer floor can be laid on a wooden base, concrete, ceramic tiles or metal.
It is important that the base is level. To do this, it is necessary to check with a two-meter rail-level in all horizontal directions so that the deviations do not exceed 4 mm, and the gaps between the floor and the rail do not exceed 2 mm. The smaller the planned thickness of the self-leveling floor, the higher the requirements for surface evenness.
Wooden base preparation
It is necessary to check the humidity of the surface (it should not exceed 10%), remove old skirting boards, check the surfaces for stains from paint, oils and glue.
Then the surface should be sanded and dust removed with a vacuum cleaner.
The ideal option would be to pre-make a screed on the wooden floor, because when moisture gets in, the wooden base can expand, and shrink when it dries. Too thin a layer of polymer flooring on a wooden base can lead to cracking.
Do not install self-leveling flooring on fresh, freshly laid wood flooring, as it is subject to significant deformation.
Preparation of the concrete base
Concrete is the most suitable basis for a self-leveling floor. Permissible humidity up to 12%. The concrete base is cleaned of paint and oil stains, the surface is leveled and polished, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner. A new concrete base must be cured for at least 21 days from the date of pouring.
Preparing the ceramic tile base
When using ceramic tiles as a base for a self-leveling floor, an important point is the strength of its fastening. If you hear a dull sound when tapping the tile, then this tile will need to be removed, and the resulting void and filled with repair mortar (repair mortar preparation method). Then the tile coating should be degreased with an organic solvent and roughened, after which a primer should be applied.
Metal base preparation
Oil and paint stains are removed from the metal surface. The surface is degreased, sandblasted or sanded to remove corrosion products and scale, to create a rough surface. Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner.
2. Base coat
We recommend priming a dry base until a slight gloss appears in 1 layer for metal, 2 layers for concrete and wood with a consumption of 200-300 g/m2 (depending on the porosity of the base). In the event that the base is wet (up to 12%), it is used at a rate of 150-200 g/m2.
3. Base putty
After priming, if the base of the self-leveling floor has potholes or cracks, they must be filled with repair mortar.
Recently, the technology of applying polymeric floor coatings is gaining more and more popularity. The second name of the technology is self-leveling floor. This partly explains the manufacturing technology. The finished composition is not mounted, but poured onto the prepared floor surface.
Polymer floors
Bulk polymer floors do not contain cement. This greatly speeds up the installation process. The polymer mixture consists of two, in some cases three phases.
The basis of the mixture is acrylic, polyester or epoxy. The most resistant to external damage mixtures, which include epoxy.
In addition to the main component, the mixture includes the following elements:
- hardener;
- granite chips or gravel;
- colored pigments.
Advantages of polymer coatings
Consider the main advantages of this type of coating:
- short polymerization period;
- high level of elasticity;
- resistance to low temperatures;
- high level of wear resistance;
- long service life;
- ease of use;
- safety for human health;
- aesthetic appearance;
- variety of textures and shades;
- the possibility of installing a three-dimensional coating.
Technology Disadvantages
Speaking about polymer floor coverings, it is impossible not to note their inherent disadvantages:
- high cost of materials;
- installation complexity;
- high cost of installation work;
- when installing polymer coatings on a new foundation, it is necessary to withstand a break before installation for at least 1 month;
- vapor tightness;
- when installing the coating on a cement base, it is necessary to additionally apply a layer of waterproofing material. Otherwise, due to vapors penetrating the concrete, the coating may be damaged.
Peculiarities
Polymer flooring has the following characteristics:
- The absence of connecting seams leads to a high level of hygiene. The cover is easy to clean both wet and dry. Seamless technology prevents the spread of insects indoors. The material does not absorb moisture and retains an aesthetic appearance for a long period of time.
- High level of resistance to various chemicals. Alkaline and acid solutions are not able to destroy the finished coating.
- Lots of modifications. Any end result of surface appearance can be achieved. The coating can be either smooth or rough.
- Variety of colors. The ability to create a unique design of the coating. Three-dimensional drawing technology is also popular.
- High level of strength. Thanks to the polymers that are part of the mixture, it is possible to achieve strength equal to the strength of the concrete base.
- High level of elasticity. Due to this, the surface is not subject to external damage.
- The material does not support combustion.
- Durability. If you follow the basic rules for caring for the coating, you can achieve a long period of its use.
The main types of polymer coatings
Do-it-yourself polymer floors are applied using two main technologies:
- Thin coating. The thickness of the applied mixture does not exceed 0.35 mm. This technology is suitable for work in standard rooms with an average level of load on the floor surface. The mixture can be used as a final coat or under a waterproofing mixture.
- Coating with a high level of filling. Its average thickness can reach 4 mm. This technology is intended for installation of coatings in buildings with an increased level of load on the floor. Differs in the high level of firmness and durability. There are various options for decorating the surface with the use of additional inclusions.
Installation work
To fully familiarize yourself with how to make polymer floors, you need to study the main stages of work:
- Preparation of materials for work.
- Base surface treatment.
- Floor priming.
- Finish coating.
Preparation of materials for work
The work is done with the use of metal tools. In order not to damage the polymer coating, it is recommended to pre-soak them in an acetone solution for 6 hours.
During installation, the roller must also be moistened as often as possible in a solution of acetone. This will prevent polymerization of the mixture residue on the roller.
Note! Work is performed only with dry tools. Use contaminated - unacceptable.
To install the self-leveling floor, you will need the following tools:
- plastic roller;
- bucket;
- paint spatula;
- rule;
- shoes with specialized soles;
- mixer;
- squeegee - regulates the level of coating thickness;
- personal protective equipment - work with toxic materials is carried out. Therefore, protective gloves and a respiratory mask must be used during installation;
- vacuum cleaner.
Base surface treatment
Before starting work, you must first prepare the base of the floor. It must be level and free of chips and cracks.
Polymer coating can be applied to any type of substrate. However, before applying it, it is imperative to prepare the surface for work.
First of all, it is worth checking the evenness of the coating. To do this, you need to use the level.
Note! Deviations from the level should not exceed 4 mm.
Processing features depend on the type of floor surface.
- Working with a wooden base. Surface cleaning, moisture check. It is necessary to remove the baseboard, paint and stains. The surface should be sanded. Dust and dirt are removed with a vacuum cleaner. To prevent damage to the polymer surface, it is necessary to apply a layer of screed to the wooden surface. It will prevent damage from natural deformations of the wooden surface due to temperature differences. It is not recommended to fill the bulk mixture with too thin a layer.
- Working with concrete surfaces The floor should be leveled, cleaned of dust, paint and dirt, then additional polishing of the surface should be carried out. If the base is severely damaged, it is recommended to apply a new one on top. In this case, the polymer mixture is applied 3 weeks after the completion of the installation of a new screed.
- Working with ceramic surfaces It is necessary to check the strength of the coating. To do this, each tile is tapped. If the result is ringing, the tile should be removed. The place must be primed and covered with a layer of putty. Then the surface is degreased and primed.
- Working with a metal surface. Base cleaning. Removing paint stains, grease and oil. Degreasing. Removal of traces of corrosion and rust by sanding.
Floor priming
Before applying the polymer mixture, the floor surface is primed. The base must be dry and free from dust. Priming is carried out 2 hours after the dust removal procedure.
The primer is carried out using a special mixture - impregnation. It is applied to the base with a roller. The primer will improve the adhesion of the polymer mixture to the floor surface. Impregnation is applied in one layer when working with a metal base, in 2-3 layers when working with other types of bases. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the polymerization of the previous one.
Putty
After the floor surface has been primed, it is necessary to give it evenness with putty. In this case, existing cracks and irregularities will be corrected.
It is necessary to start applying the polymer solution at least a day after priming the surface.
Work should begin from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the front door. To ensure that there are no air residues in the applied solution, it should be treated with a spiked roller.
The mixture is applied in stripes. For ease of application, you can use a special hose. The liquid is leveled with a squeegee. Next, you need to compact the layer with a special roller. Work is done in shoes with metal studded soles.
Finish coat
After the base layer of the mixture has been applied, the surface should be treated with a finishing layer.
Finishing is carried out 48 hours after pouring the polymer solution. Polyurethane varnish can be used as a finishing mixture. It improves the quality of the polymer mixture and adds shine to the floor surface.
Applying a topcoat will significantly extend the life of the self-leveling floor. Lacquer should be applied in at least two layers. After applying each of them, it is necessary to withstand at least one hour to dry.
Note! The self-leveling floor is ready for use not earlier than two days after the finish coating has dried. If an increased level of load on the floor surface is foreseen, the polymerization period must be increased to one week.
Currently, construction is an important branch of the national economy. A special place in this section is the work on the manufacture of the floor in a particular room. Today, for the construction of the floor, you can use a wide variety of materials: wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete coating. In recent years, the so-called liquid polymer floor is gaining more and more popularity. It is also called bulk. Unlike conventional materials, it has a number of advantages.
Polymer floors are divided into such types as: epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate.
Polymer self-leveling floors are a synthetic coating. Most often it is used in large retail premises, garages, exhibition halls, etc. Very often, polymer self-leveling floors are used in production due to their strength and durability. It is easy to make such floors with your own hands. In addition, there are 3D floors. They differ from the previous coating in the presence of complex drawings, which not everyone can do with their own hands. Let us consider in more detail how to pour polymer floors, the main stages of work, the positive and negative sides of this coating.
Read also:
: preparation, process and features.
About, how to glue non-woven meter wallpaper, read.
Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor
Polymer self-leveling floors have a number of positive qualities, due to which they are in great demand.
Firstly, there are different types of polymer floors (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can withstand high temperatures and not let water through.
Secondly, despite the use of a polymer base, they are hygienic, easy to process and wash. Thirdly, this coating is resistant to various chemical agents.
Fourthly, polymer floors can be glossy or matte, so you can choose the desired design in accordance with the interior of the room. Fifthly, polymer floors contain a liquid component that quickly hardens. This contributes to better adhesion of the liquid to any surface, be it wood or concrete. Unlike a wooden and concrete base, this coating is done quickly and without much effort.
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Preparatory work
The complexity of the construction of self-leveling floors is that they require a perfectly flat surface. In the event that the base is represented by tiles or tiles, you will have to create some roughness. This can be done with sandpaper or sandpaper. Often there are problems when leveling the base if it is made of wooden boards. To do this, first close up all the bumps. The unevenness of the base of the floor can be well manifested when disassembling the log and removing the old coating.
The permissible difference in the height of the self-leveling floor surface is 4 mm. If possible, then you can make a screed of concrete. If it is not done, then irregularities and defects are removed with a grinder or grindstone. To determine the evenness of the coating, it is recommended to use a water or building level. It is also advisable to carry out surface priming. The primer prevents the penetration of moisture and increases the adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the base. After the base is made, along the perimeter of the room it is necessary to nail the slats like a plinth. This is necessary so that the liquid polymer mixture does not spread into the voids between the floor and the wall. The slats are fixed with self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is wooden) or dowels (if the wall is concrete).
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Preparation of the mixture and pouring technology
In order to make polymer floors with your own hands, you will need to prepare a working solution. You can buy a polymer mixture at any hardware store. After that, it must be diluted in water. This is one of the most important stages of the whole work, since the result of pouring largely depends on the quality of the solution. It is necessary to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions attached to the product. The mixing process is of great importance. This should be done slowly so that not a single lump remains. In addition, there should be no air bubbles in the solution.
Mixing can be done using a special mixer or improvised means. The next stage of the repair is pouring the solution. Liquid polymer must be applied to the surface from the most distant part of the room from the doors and gradually move towards the exit. The optimal floor layer should be about 4 mm. If you make it thinner, then it will not have high strength and reliability. This option is suitable as an addition to the main coating. It is best to fill the mixture with two people with an assistant. One person holds a container with a polymer liquid and gradually applies it to the floor, while the second person levels the surface. For alignment, you can use a wooden lath.
After the polymer self-leveling floor dries, you can start applying varnish. Varnish is needed to give the coating a certain sheen. In addition, the varnish increases the wear resistance of the material and makes it smoother. The drying time of the polymer mixture is on average about half an hour. But it is best to read the instructions on the package. The varnish is applied only on a hard surface. It is recommended to paint the floor in two or even three layers. It is not possible to walk on a new self-leveling floor immediately, otherwise traces may remain on it.
