The diagrams show the relative position of structural elements in the most common types of heat and sound insulation systems for floors. At the stage of detailed design, standard solutions are linked to a specific construction object, taking into account its individual characteristics, such as: volumetric planning of a building, materials of supporting structures, the shape of window and door openings, the presence of all kinds of additional structures, etc.
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| Floor system for floors made of reinforced concrete slabs (using a lag). |
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1. Base for flooring |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for overlapping reinforced concrete slabs (without logs) |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Attic floor. Overlapping over cold rooms. |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Interfloor overlap. |
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1. Base for flooring |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for overlapping reinforced concrete beams (using logs). |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for overlapping reinforced concrete beams (without logs). |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for overlapping reinforced concrete beams (without logs). |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for overlapping metal beams (using logs). |
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1.Base for flooring |
| Floor system for overlapping metal beams (using logs). |
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1. Base for flooring |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for overlapping metal beams (without logs). |
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1. Base for flooring |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system on a prepared subgrade. |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for floors made of reinforced concrete slabs (without logs). |
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1. Base for flooring |
| Floor system for floors made of reinforced concrete slabs (without logs). |
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1. Base for flooring |
High-quality flooring on floor slabs assumes comfortable living of people in the room.
Diagram of the device of the chipboard floor.
The classification of floors is made by types of coatings:
- boardwalk;
- parquet;
- linoleum;
- slab.
And by types of structures:
- layered;
- single-layer;
- separate hollow;
- separate voidless.
Required tool:
Floor plan over the ventilated underground.
- grinder;
- plane;
- hammer;
- trowel;
- cord;
- rule;
- saw;
- fasteners;
- screwdriver;
- roulette.
Layered floor device
They are mainly used in interfloor ceilings. They are made of several layers over colder rooms (basements, garages). A sound-insulating layer is laid on the floor slabs, and on it a hard floor covering - piece parquet or parquet boards. For sound insulation, fiberboard plates of grades 4, 12, 20 are used.
Single layer construction
Such a floor is made directly over the floor slabs. If irregularities are found, it is necessary to make a leveling layer. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be bio-resistant linoleum, which is not subject to decay processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or linoleum on a rubber base.
Installation of a split hollow core
Scheme of the device of a soundproofing floor.
First, a sound-proof layer is laid over the floor slabs, then the logs are reinforced, and the material of the clean floor is laid over them: parquet boards, tongue-and-groove boards or wooden boards. If a continuous flooring is made of unplaned boards in the room, then fiberboard plates are laid on top, the thickness of which should be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow floor on floor slabs must be cut and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80 * 40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the flooring, the distance between the lags is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.
Separate voidless floor device
Scheme for self-laying floorboards.
It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate of class B12.5 with a density grade D1200, the screed thickness should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar; irregularities must simply be sanded down. Between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room, a gap of 20-30 mm is made around the perimeter, which is filled with sound-insulating material and subsequently closed with a plinth.
The outer covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminated parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top of the screed. It is laid with an overlap or the joints are coated with a bituminous solution. Then they put a layer of sound insulation of 125-150 grade mineral wool up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard plates up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.
Parquet flooring
Floor arrangement diagram.
A beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet boards, block parquet) a popular material in the construction of floors on ceilings. The device of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard plates, cement-sand screeds. Floors made of block parquet, made with a herringbone pattern with or without friezes, look good.
First, you need to mark out the rows of pavement so that there is less waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and a lighthouse "tree" is laid on it. Focusing on it, a floor covering device is made with a careful connection and fastening of each parquet strip with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. Doboinik deepen the hats into the material.
The installation of flooring from piece parquet on screeds is carried out using hot or cold bitumen solution in a "Christmas tree" without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, leveling it with a special parquet planing machine or a hand plane; after clipping, plinths are installed, the floor is scraped and sanded. Moisten the floor slightly before scraping. A private master does the scraping of the parquet itself inexpensively. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.
Linoleum floors
Floor insulation scheme for the first floor.
Linoleum is a material used for flooring. Has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to chemicals, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular with developers. The disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warpage and swelling. In order to prevent their appearance, linoleum is preliminarily kept in a rolled state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.
The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to perceive even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the substrates must be level, clean, dry and sound. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rail. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard slabs, chipboard slabs, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.
To install a new screed, a 3: 1 sand-cement mortar is made on the floor slabs, which is laid on a rigid and durable preparation with a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a scraper along the pre-installed guide rails. The surface of previously made screeds must be clean and level. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a 1: 2 composition. The admissible moisture content of the base is no more than 10%.
The most time-consuming process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for gluing linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.
Soundproofing scheme for floors.
They must be tough enough. The base boards should not bend. Before gluing linoleum, the base of the floor must be well processed: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be filled, cleaned and primed.
When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with the obligatory grouting of the joints between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor, their caps are well embedded in the material, and the slabs are glued to the concrete or cement-sand screed with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed slabs is leveled by removing the bulges, sealing the joints with mastic, priming and filling with oil putty. Then linoleum is laid.
Ceramic tile floors
For the construction of the floor on the floor slabs, the base is first made from ceramic tiles - a monolithic cement screed with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3: 1; 4: 1), the construction of which is carried out along the waterproofing layer. When installing a floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to glue waterproofing with hot bitumen mastic along the flooring, then put a reinforced mesh and put a solution over it. To install the screed, you should use wooden beacon slats installed along the level along the walls of the room. Put the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by a rule, the ends of which must rest on the lighthouse rails. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with a solution.
Floor overlap and insulation scheme.
Sort the tiles by size and color before laying them. Make a breakdown of the floor according to the selected pattern of the future covering, then check the rectangularity of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and put two mutually perpendicular rows dry according to the pattern. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.
If the tiles do not fit completely, then they can be cut and laid in a row located closer to the wall. Lighthouse tiles are laid according to the marks made on the clean floor. Then, corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed along the cord and ruler. On the prepared solution, the first row of tiles is embedded and laid. After laying the frieze rows, they begin to lay the tiles of the main pattern of the floor covering. In order not to step on the already laid tiles, their flooring starts from the far wall.
The solution used must be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Putting the tiles on the mortar, you should slightly precipitate it with light blows of a trowel or a hammer on the bar placed on top. The horizontalness of the laid tiles is checked by the rule. The seams between them must be free of mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is carried out 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. The remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after the end of the work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Cover the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve a good hardening of the solution.
Installation of laminated parquet floors
Laminated parquet is a modern building material for covering floors on floor slabs. This is an environmentally friendly flooring, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very easy to use. It is made of dense, waterproof fiberboard boards, covered with a layer imitating wood. Plank dimensions: length - 1.2-1.7 m, width - up to 18 cm, thickness - from 6 to 14 mm. Laminate strips are coated on top with acrylate or melamine resin to protect them from mechanical damage.
Wood floors are a timeless classic that, despite the emergence of numerous new technologies and materials, remains popular today. For the construction of wooden floors, the boards are laid on wooden blocks, which are called "logs". And the floor is also called: "floors on logs" or "on logs". The essence does not change.
Lags include a wide range of sawn timber:
- a log cut in half;
- bars of rectangular cross-section, in which one side is at least 1.5 times longer than the other;
- one thick board or two spliced or glued together;
These are the materials that can be used in the manufacture of a wooden floor on logs with your own hands. There are also metal and polymer ones, but they come with industrial systems and are not used in private housing construction.
If we talk about wood, then conifers are more often used for laying under the floor. They have low prices, and due to the significant content of resins, they are less susceptible to decay.
Any wood must be antibacterial before laying. For baths, it is also desirable to be treated with fire retardants - compounds that reduce the flammability of wood. Whether you choose ready-made impregnations for processing or impregnate with hot wax or linseed oil is not so important, but this stage cannot be skipped.
Lags can be laid on concrete, but only under them you need to spread a waterproofing film These bars are supported on specially made structures - columns. This is when it comes to a private house or a bathhouse built on or a columnar foundation. They are also laid directly on the concrete base. This is possible if:
- slab foundation;
- previously made as a base for the floor;
- the dimensions of the foundation allow you to make hanging logs;
- the floor is installed in apartments in multi-storey buildings.
What lags to use
The size and number of beams should be chosen based on the load and thickness of the floor boards. The section of the lag and their thickness depends on the length of the span - the distance between the two supports. The greater the distance between the supports, the more powerful the timber is required. For logs installed on a concrete base, there are no such requirements. Here, most often, the dimensions are selected based on the dimensions of the insulation, and of the thickness of the board, which will be laid on the floor.
The step for the lag (the distance between two adjacent bars) is chosen from 30 cm to 100 cm. It depends on the thickness of the floor board. The correspondence is shown in the table. Optimal for baths is considered to be a step of 50 cm. The thickness of the board is 25-30 mm.
Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the step of installing the lag There are also some recommendations on the width of the floorboard - do not take a too wide one into the bath - when the humidity rises, it will warp more, which can even create difficulties when moving. Medium width is the best choice for saunas.
It is advisable to lay the lags in one piece, without joints. But if necessary, they can be spliced. To do this, either cut out a dowel in half a tree, or join them end-to-end, securing at least two sides with pieces of boards at least 1 meter long.
Location rules
The first and last logs from the wall should be at a distance of no more than 20 cm. If, while observing the calculated step, the extreme logs are further away, their number is increased, and the step is reduced.
They are placed either along the wall in which the door is located, or perpendicular to it. If one wall is much longer than the other, then it is along this long wall that the logs are placed. If the room is square or close to it in shape, then the location of the window can influence the choice: floorboards look best if they are located along the stream of light. That is, in this case, the logs are placed along the wall, which has a window.
Floor device on logs
The wooden floor can be with or without subfloor. The type of floor device is determined by the water table. If they are located closer than 2 m, the subfloor is required. In all other cases - at will.
If the groundwater is deep, you can make wooden floors on the ground. There is a very cheap option, but it is also the coldest: there is no insulation, so this option is either for seasonal houses (summer cottages and baths) or for regions with a very warm climate. The only requirement is a high base.
Installation of a floor on logs with a cold subfloor If the waters are close to the surface, the timber structures must be lifted. Then they arrange special bases-columns, on which lags are already laid. In this case, additional measures for moisture insulation are required.
Lags on the concrete floor
If there is already a concrete base - a floor slab, screed or slab foundation, it is easier to make a wooden floor. Mounting a lag on a concrete floor takes a little time, exactly how much depends on the height difference and the required adjustments. The order of actions and layers is as follows:
For baths, the choice of material depends on the type of room. For a steam room with its high temperatures, it is advisable to choose heat insulators that are not afraid of high temperatures. But they shouldn't be afraid of moisture either.
On the other hand, in the area of the floor, the temperature rarely rises above 30 °C, and under the boards it will be even less, so the question of temperatures can be removed. Remains moisture resistance. These conditions are met by expanded polystyrene and expanded clay. Mineral wool mats can also be used, but they are afraid of dampness, so it is advisable to insulate them well. Alternatively, each mat should be sealed in a thick film.
Sometimes, for convenience, additional jumpers are installed between the lags. Such a frame for laying floorboards requires more materials, but allows you to save on the floorboard: it can be taken of a lesser thickness, since the supports are located more often.
There is a quick installation option - the installation of adjustable lags. Adjustable lags are wooden or plywood bars with studs and an adjustment system (nuts) mounted in them. Rotating the nut to one side or the other, you change the level of the log relative to the floor. The pins themselves are walled into the floor.
This is what the adjustable lags look like. It takes 3-5 days to install such a floor, but its cost is about 15-20% more expensive than the usual version. But the boards, with a sufficient degree of moisture insulation, will serve for a long time: there is no direct contact with a humid environment and they will not be damaged. Among the disadvantages: they "eat up" the extra centimeters of the ceiling height. For some it is not critical, but for others it is very important.
Wooden floor on the ground
For private houses, summer cottages and baths, it is often necessary to make the cheapest floor. And this is the floor on logs on the ground. There is a minimum of material costs, but the floor is cold. So this is either for summer houses or for the southern regions. In other regions, heating costs will be very high.
For the device of such a floor on the logs, the following work is carried out:
Work on the installation of such a cold floor does not require a lot of time. You also need a little money.
Insulated option
Underfloor heating is expensive, but it still remains an inexpensive option. The preparation of the pit is exactly the same: removing the fertile layer and tamping the remaining clean soil. Then the differences begin:
- The bottom and walls of the pit are lined with waterproofing materials.
- Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured with a layer of 8-10 cm, compacted well, then spilled with cement milk. Drying and setting of the layer last at least a day, then work can be continued.
Cement milk - cement diluted with water. In consistency, it resembles, rather, liquid kefir. Most often, the proportions are as follows: three or four parts of water are taken for one part of the cement. This operation serves to adhere the bedding bed. A fairly solid foundation is formed.
In order not to bother with setting the lag - it's a long and troublesome business - level it up. It is easier to do this with the lighthouses exposed.
Pillar floor
When installing a wooden floor, there is a subfloor on the posts. It can be insulated or not. The floor can also be cold or insulated in any of the options.
Floor posts
Floor posts are made of bricks, small concrete blocks, or use the "FL" type. It is possible to use wooden blocks impregnated with bitumen as posts. Some people place flat-topped boulders of suitable size on the base. Boulders are a good support, but it is problematic to attach logs to them.
Each column has its own foundation. The size of the base is 2-10 cm larger than the column. The depth of the foundation depends on the type of soil, but usually 10 cm is enough.
If the subsoil waters are close, the logs are raised. Supports are made for them - brick posts There are two options for making the bases for the posts: make the formwork separately for each one, or fill it with a single tape. The first method is more economical in terms of material consumption, but the second takes less time: to make one or two general formwork faster than many small ones.
The location of the supports is marked with a pencil on the foundation or on the lower crown (on the element to which the logs will be attached). Then the threads are pulled between the marks, and along them the formwork is already knocked off under the posts. There are other markup methods, but this one is the fastest and most accurate.
The dimensions of the formwork for the posts are 2-10 cm more than the post itself, the height is 10 cm. Inside, on the compacted soil, several bars of smooth reinforcement are laid, they are filled with a standard cement-sand mortar. They are waiting for the mortar to set for at least 3 days, then columns can be laid out on the base.
When pouring, it is necessary to monitor the height of the foundations: it must be the same. In principle, it can then be corrected by adding a solution, but again you will have to wait 3 days. Therefore, try to immediately make them the same height.
Roofing material is laid on the finished base, it can be in two layers. Then the columns are folded. On top of them, it is recommended to put also roofing material, and then also a three-centimeter wooden board impregnated with antibacterial compounds. Lags will already fit on it.
As you can see, it takes a long time to make the floor posts. If you need to speed up the process, you can put ready-made concrete blocks or beams, you can lay asbo-cement pipes on a well-compacted bedding. Some put boulders or tarred logs. There is another option - to drive pieces of metal or asbestos-cement pipes into the ground, stick several reinforcement bars into them and pour concrete. There is probably more than one option, because our craftsmen are famous for their ingenuity.
This is how ready-made columns look for lags. By the way, there is another option, but without support: hanging logs. Such a device of a wooden floor is possible in narrow rooms, which is far from always the case (do the lag laying step a little more often than in options with supports).
Hanging lags are a super fast option Warm and cold subfloor
If the logs are raised above the ground, there is free space under them. There are two ways out. Leave the subfloor uninsulated or insulate it. Moreover, in each of the options, it is still possible to insulate the floor structure or not, and it itself can be single or double. So there are a lot of options.
The non-insulated subfloor can be made with a single or double plank floor. Some options are shown in the figure. Moreover, the insulated floor is only in one version - at the bottom right.
Floor options for logs with a subfloor It is very simple to insulate the subfloor: put any non-hygroscopic insulation on the waterproofing layer (roofing felt, roofing felt, film, etc.). Expanded clay is often used, from modern materials, foam board expanded propylene has proven itself very well, behaves a little worse, but it costs less, so it is also used often. Sometimes the space is filled with foamed polyethylene - all the insulation takes several hours, but this is done only with special devices, so you either have to rent them or pay a specialist for the work.
When using any of these heaters for ventilation of a wooden floor, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm to the rough or finish coating.
Warm and cold floor
Cold plank floor along the logs can be single or double. Warm - only double: the insulation needs to be laid on something. One of the options is shown in the photo.
A cranial block is attached to the lags on the sides below, and the boards of the rough (cranial) floor are laid on it. The sticks should be thick enough to nail the deck comfortably. On the rough floor, you can use an unedged board, but just be sure to remove the bark and soak it well with antiseptics: woodworm larvae often nest under the bark.
Next, waterproofing (membrane or film) is laid, and insulation on top. Here you can use all the same materials as for insulating the subfloor, plus (if you are satisfied with their ecology). But in the case of laying mineral wool on top, they also need to be covered with waterproofing - they do not like water very much, and when they get wet, they lose their properties. The whole cake should take up enough space so that 5 cm is left to the floor boards.
Ventilation of wooden floors on joists
It is also necessary to provide for the presence of ventilation holes in the baseboards. According to the standards for a room up to 15 m 2, two vents are required, the total area of which is at least 20-30 cm 2. They are arranged in the baseboards of opposite walls, covering with metal decorative grilles.
To make better traction and protect the subfloor from rodents entering it, you can install a tin pipe in the duct, on the top of which you can install an umbrella For normal ventilation of the floor of the basement part of the foundation, ventilation ducts must be provided. In order to be able to somehow regulate the air intake, you can make dampers. You can take the ventilation pipe outside the foundation, raise it above the base, and on top of which you can make an umbrella so that no precipitation falls into it.
The owners of apartments located on the ground floors of high-rise buildings, as well as private houses, face a problem that brings them significant inconvenience. This is a low surface temperature of the floors, which negatively affects their durability and creates discomfort for the inhabitants of the premises. To eliminate the problem in the process of construction, reconstruction or repair, floor insulation is performed. The modern market offers various types of thermal insulation materials. The methods of high-quality insulation of concrete and wooden floors depend on their choice.
Attention, cold floor!
Some overly thrifty owners do not attach due importance to the problem of low floor temperatures in the apartment. Wanting to save on the cost of materials and work, they arbitrarily exclude the installation of an insulating layer from the technological process. The consequences of such an imprudent decision affect the cold season:
- the floor covering is covered with condensation;
- in a humid environment, pathogenic organisms develop - mold and fungus;
- the microclimate of the room is disturbed - the humidity rises, the temperature drops;
- heating costs are increasing;
- the service life of the floors is reduced.
To make living in the room comfortable and safe, it is worth adhering to the work technologies developed by the builders. Only a properly built and well-equipped house with warm floors is a real fortress. Modern materials make it possible to solve this problem quickly and without loss of quality.
7 main types of insulation materials
In order to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house or in an apartment on the ground floor in the coldest winter, it is worth choosing the best material for floor insulation. It should be remembered that even an ideal insulation does not perform the required functions in unsuitable conditions. To choose a thermal insulation material that meets your specific requirements, before purchasing, you should familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of its different types.
- Basalt or mineral wool... The budget option, due to the low price, is extremely popular in the construction of private houses and the device of thermal insulation with your own hands. It is attractive due to its ease of installation, low thermal conductivity, and good sound-absorbing properties. The high porosity contributes to good steam exchange, which is necessary to create a comfortable living environment. It works poorly at high humidity, once soaked in water, it loses its insulating properties. When laying, be sure to use protective equipment. Contact with the smallest glass particles on open areas of the body and on mucous membranes causes prolonged itching and redness.
- Styrofoam... Another inexpensive and popular insulation, characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, low weight. In the absence of point mechanical loads and exposure to the surface of aggressive chemicals, it is durable and reliable. Afraid of direct sunlight, it emits harmful substances when burning. If there are rodents in the house, there is a high probability of complete destruction of the foam layer, even protected by a screed.
- Extruded polystyrene- improved foam. The developers have retained the useful properties of the old material in the new material and enriched it with additional advantages, in particular, rather high strength compared to foam. The fire retardants that are part of the polystyrene ensure low flammability. The material works well even in an aggressive chemical environment, while it does not pose a danger to human health. All its components are absolutely harmless.
- Polyurethane foam... The extremely convenient way of applying insulation has won him immense popularity. You just need to spray the polyurethane foam evenly over the surface from a special gun - and you can start screed. Pros - low thermal conductivity and water permeability, long service life. The most advertised property - high adhesion to any surface, is rather controversial. The material adheres really well to porous concrete, but does not adhere at all to polyethylene or galvanized metal.
- Expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite... These natural materials (clay, volcanic rocks, hydromica), treated in a special way, are environmentally friendly and safe. However, they are distinguished by high water absorption, and in terms of thermal insulation properties, they are significantly inferior to artificial insulation. To ensure the same thermal conductivity as mineral wool, a 3 times larger layer of expanded clay is required. Accordingly, high weight increases the load on the base. Therefore, the material is more often used to insulate a concrete floor, which is arranged on an earthen or sandy underlying layer, you can read more about it in more detail.
- Foam glass... It is an ordinary glass, foamed at the factory and formed into blocks. Excellent insulation, environmentally friendly and harmless. Not afraid of rodents, moisture, resistant to temperature extremes, acids. Does not form pathogenic microorganisms, is characterized by absolute non-combustibility. Disadvantages: high cost, destroyed under the influence of point impacts, melts when exposed to alkalis.
- Cork... Crushed cork oak bark pressed into slabs is an ideal insulation, the only drawback of which is its high price. The rest of the material has a lot of useful properties: low thermal conductivity, high strength, environmental friendliness, incombustibility, biological resistance, low weight, good dielectric properties. Insulating a concrete floor with a cork is a great way to do the work with your own hands, available even to an amateur.
Installation of warm concrete floors
To insulate a concrete floor during repair or construction, you will first need to prepare a high-quality base, leveled and protected with waterproofing. The old concrete slab is being repaired, all the irregularities are filled in with skinny concrete. The entire surface of the base is covered with a waterproofing material. To avoid the penetration of moisture into the butt joints, they are glued with tape. On top of the waterproofing, an insulation material selected in accordance with the operating conditions and material capabilities of the owner of the apartment is laid.
If for the insulation of the concrete floor are selected extruded polystyrene plates, they are placed randomly. Other materials are laid close to each other, the joints are glued to avoid the formation of cold bridges. A layer of waterproofing is again laid on the insulation, the resulting cake is protected from deformation with a reinforcing mesh. The next step is the device of the rough screed. The insulation is poured with a concrete mixture, compacted, leveled and left to cure for 28 days.
Laying cable mats under the screed
Another option for insulating a concrete floor is laying cable mats on a moisture-proof base. The technology of installing electric underfloor heating provides for the implementation of a screed with a thickness of about 3 cm. Cable mats are not recommended to be laid in places where heavy furniture or sanitary equipment is installed. A floor covering is laid on the finished screed - linoleum, laminate, carpet,. In rooms with high humidity, ceramic tiles are laid.
Insulation of a concrete screed under a wooden floor
If the project provides for a wooden covering on the logs, reinforced on a monolithic base, it is necessary to perform heat and waterproofing of the screed. The technique that allows you to insulate a concrete floor with logs is not very difficult and is available for doing it yourself. The leveled base is divided into separate sections, the width of which is equal to the width of the insulation. Wooden blocks - logs are used as a separator. They are fixed to the concrete surface with self-tapping screws.
Due to the high strength of the monolithic base, the floor can be installed on the foundation in any form using a screed on the slab to make it even. On this basis, you can put without additional preparation:
- fireplaces of any complexity;
- boilers for the heating system;
- various partitions.
With all these advantages, the concrete base is very cold, therefore, insulation work should be carried out before installing the floor. In order to prevent the surface of the foundation from emitting dampness and cold, a heat-insulating cake must be laid. Extruded polystyrene foam is well suited as a filling for such a heater. It is best placed between the foundation slab and the subfloor screed. Sometimes it can be used between the basement and the first floor.
Slab base, installation
In order to better understand the progress of work, it is imperative that you familiarize yourself with the points for performing work on self-assembly of a monolithic base. The first step is to pay special attention to the calculation of the foundation. Most often, when performing this type of work, many make gross mistakes that adversely affect at the time of installation of the base.
It is very difficult to make calculations of the foundation with your own hands without certain knowledge. In addition to the loads on the base at the time of calculations, it is necessary to take into account possible shrinkage, deformation, the distribution of all loads on the slab, and so on. Calculations are performed based on state standards and norms. If you do not have the skills in such work, it is best to contact construction experts.
After completing the calculations, it is necessary to tackle the earth types of work. A recess should be made around the entire perimeter of the future foundation. Next, you need to lay geotextile materials, which are necessary so that the sand cushion is not squeezed by weight into the thickness of the clay.
Sand pillow ramming
A sand cushion is being laid; in some situations, you can use medium fraction crushed stone. The backfill is necessarily accompanied by layer-by-layer compaction, which allows the material to be compacted. It is recommended to spill the mass with water at the time of tamping. After that, engineering communications are carried out. Next, the concrete mixture is poured with a thickness of 10 centimeters.
Waterproofing is laid on the formed preparatory layer, which is necessary for the concrete slab. It is imperative to solder the joints of the material. It is best to use burners for this. The dimensions of the waterproofing must be larger than the area of the foundation. The edges of the insulation must protrude so that they can be further attached to the base plate.
At the end of the installation of the waterproofing layer, the thermal insulation is laid. The best material for this will be extruded polystyrene foam. In most cases, a plastic wrap is laid on top of it. Installing thermal insulation will solve such a problem as cold floors in the room. Also, if it is available, heating costs will be reduced in the cold period.
Reinforcement of the future slab
A structure made of metal reinforcement is installed on the surface of the finished foundation layers. The reinforcement mesh should be laid at a level of 50 millimeters from the bottom of the foundation, that is, from the expanded polystyrene layer, and the second at 50 mm from the upper edge. Formwork panels are installed along the perimeter of the finished structure. They should be tightly connected together to avoid leakage during pouring. The final stage on the base slab is to pour it with a concrete mixture.
Dignity of a monolithic base
A monolithic slab as a foundation has many advantages, for example, such as:
The negative aspects can be attributed only to the fact that with such a design it is impossible to make a basement, but there is a solution, only high costs are needed. The cost of any home base is determined by the price of building materials, transportation costs, the purchase or rental of specialized tools, and the wages of workers.
Varieties of floors
In the interior decoration of any room, the floors are an important part, since the outcome of the entire repair depends on them. Their installation is carried out on a slab or on the ground surface. In the modern world, floors are no longer considered a simple layer of concrete screed, they are made in the form of a multi-layer structure. These floors include many building elements.
- leveling layer;
- thermal insulation;
- soundproofing;
- waterproofing layer;
- final coating.
Nowadays, floors have different technical properties and performance characteristics. This diversity has arisen as a result of the fact that a variety of requirements are imposed on the floor covering, for example, such as: operational, sanitary, artistic and aesthetic. As a result of finishing, the floor should have the following properties:
- horizontality;
- low thermal conductivity;
- moisture resistance;
- perfect smoothness;
- without fail, the floor should not be slippery;
- easy cleaning from dirt;
- high wear resistance.
Having finished an even screed, it is necessary to decide on what material the floor will be covered with in the future.
Concrete pavement
This is a fairly flat and undeniably smooth floor, which is used in industrial and warehouse-type premises. Such a floor has an even and smooth surface thanks to chemical additives. These chemical elements impart durable strength to the coating as a whole. Such floors are applied to the surface of the concrete base and then trowelled to a perfect shine. Due to the chemical element at the time of grouting the surface, it penetrates into the structure of the foundation, making it stronger. After watching the video, you will learn how to properly install a concrete floor.
One of the important qualities of such a floor covering is durability and absence of dust. It is also important that the cost of installing such a floor is inexpensive. The low cost of materials allows you to reduce unnecessary costs.
Plank floors on slab
After the monolithic slab is filled with a rough screed, it is necessary to decide on the choice of material. Plank floors are a good choice for flooring. The first step is to install the logs, that is, the element to which the plank covering will be attached. They should be placed on soundproofing pads. In the absence of a slab, columns are made, most often of bricks, on which logs are laid.