How to calculate how much floorboard you need. Laying the floorboard with your own hands

When carrying out construction work on the construction of a residential building, a specialist needs to perform a large number of various tasks, some of which are: drawing up and calculating the estimated cost before finishing the premises of a residential building. It is imperative to calculate the required amount of various building materials, which is quite difficult to do. Therefore, such knowledge - how many boards are in a cube - is very important for a specialist who is engaged in the construction of a residential building and wants to do the work as efficiently and quickly as possible in time.

Buyer's club: existing types of boards

To calculate exactly how many pieces of boards are in a cube, you need to know not only what exactly a cube of a board means, but it is worth understanding an important point that there are different types of boards and what kind of board is available on the modern market to perform various construction work. It should be noted that the cube of almost all materials, regardless of the type of material, is calculated in the same way, that is, according to one specific method. The types of boards have no influence on the calculation of the cubic capacity of this building material.

The non-grooved type of lumber are: timber, various edged boards, as well as unedged boards (they are an exception when calculating the cubic capacity, because this process takes place a little differently). The grooved types (which have special grooves for making a joint) include: modern wall paneling, blockhouse, floor material, as well as imitation of natural timber. When you choose a grooved type of building material for purchase, then you will need to draw your attention to the fact that when calculating, only the working width of the board is used without a spike. If we talk about a blockhouse (imitation of a log), then when calculating the cubic capacity, only the thickness at its highest point is taken.

What is the number of boards in 1 cube: calculation

Any person, even from his school days, understands how the cubic capacity is calculated. For this procedure, it is necessary to calculate quantities such as: length, width and height. A similar principle is used to calculate the cubic capacity of 1 board. When performing such calculations, it is recommended to convert all available values ​​to meters. Cubic capacity of 1 board, which has a section of 150x20 mm. and a length of 6 m, it is calculated as follows: 0.15 is multiplied by 0.02 and 6, so that the cubic capacity of this board will be 0.018 cubic meters.

Apply the volume formula V = L * h * b (where L is length, h is height, b is width).

L = 6.0; h = 0.02; b = 0.15.

Thus, V = 6.0 * 0.02 * 0.15 = 0.018 m 3.

To determine how many boards are in one cube: divide 1 m 3 by cubic capacity (the volume of one board).

1 m 3 / V = ​​N pcs.

1 m 3 / 0.018 m 3 = 55.55 pcs.

Thus, the number of boards in one cube is 55.5 pieces.

It is quite easy to find out the cost of a certain type of board when the values ​​of its volume are known: 0.018 is multiplied by the price of 1 cubic meter. When 1 cube of a certain type of board has, for example, a cost of 5500 rubles, then the cost will be 99 rubles. At this point in the calculation, there is some trick of salespeople and managers in hardware stores, because the cubic capacity of the material is rounded up to some whole values.

Such rounding can lead to such a moment that the price of 1 board (when 1 cube costs 5500) will be completely different values. In addition to all this, it should be noted that for various boards for construction, which have a nominal length of 6 meters, in fact, the length is 6.1 - 6.2 m, which is not taken into account when selling this building material. This also applies to the acquisition of a significant number of boards. This is quite clearly seen if, for example, a 150x20 mm board is used. The number of boards in a cube is 55.5 pieces. But, in a cube, 55 pieces are considered, that when the calculation is made, there will be a value of 0.99 cubic meters. In fact, it follows from this that the overpayment for 1 cubic meter of this popular building material can be 1% of the real price. For example, 5500 instead of 4995 rubles.

To calculate the cubic capacity for a non-cut type of board, slightly different methods are used. When it comes to buying 1 board, then the measurement of its thickness, as well as the total length, is carried out in the same way as when choosing an edged building material. In this case, the width for calculations is taken as an average - between a large value and a small one.

For example, when at the end the width of the board is 25 cm, and at the other 20, then the average value will be approximately 22 centimeters. When it is necessary to calculate the volume of a significant number of such boards for construction, then it will be necessary to expand them so that the wide one does not differ from the narrow one, more than 10 cm. The main length of this material in the laid out pile should be approximately the same. After that, using a regular tape measure, an accurate measurement of the height of the entire existing stack of boards is made, the width is measured (approximately in the middle). The result obtained will then need to be multiplied by a special factor, which is a value from 0.07 to 0.09, in direct proportion to the existing air gap.

How many boards are in 1 cube: special tables

To calculate exactly how many boards of a certain width, length in 1 cubic meter, various tables are used. Below are several such specialized tables, which indicate the cubic capacity of the types of this material common and in demand today. It is possible to calculate the volume of various boards having different sizes, for example, material for erecting a fence on your site, using the existing formula, which is presented above.

Table of the number of edged boards in 1 cubic meter

Board size	Volume of the 1st board (m 3)	Number of boards in 1m 3 (pcs.)	Number of square meters in 1m 2
Twenty
Board 20x100x6000	0.012 m 3	83 Item (s)	50 m 2
Board 20x120x6000	0.0144 m 3	69 pcs.	50 m 2
Board 20x150x6000	0.018 m 3	55 pcs.	50 m 2
Board 20x180x6000	0.0216 m 3	46 pcs.	50 m 2
Board 20x200x6000	0.024 m 3	41 Item (s)	50 m 2
Board 20x250x6000	0.03 m 3	33 pcs.	50 m 2
Twenty-five
Board 25x100x6000	0.015 m 3	67 pcs.	40 m 2
Board 25x120x6000	0.018 m 3	55 pcs.	40 m 2
Board 25x150x6000	0.0225 m 3	44 pcs.	40 m 2
Board 25x180x6000	0.027 m 3	37 pcs.	40 m 2
Board 25x200x6000	0.03 m 3	33 pcs.	40 m 2
Board 25x250x6000	0.0375 m 3	26 pcs.	40 m 2
Thirty
Board 30x100x6000	0.018 m 3	55 pcs.	33 m 2
Board 30x120x6000	0.0216 m 3	46 pcs.	33 m 2
Board 30x150x6000	0.027 m 3	37 pcs.	33 m 2
Board 30x180x6000	0.0324 m 3	30 pcs.	33 m 2
Board 30x200x6000	0.036 m 3	27 pcs.	33 m 2
Board 30x250x6000	0.045 m 3	22 pcs.	33 m 2
Thirty-two
Board 32x100x6000	0.0192 m 3	52 Item (s)	31 m 2
Board 32x120x6000	0.023 m 3	43 Item (s)	31 m 2
Board 32x150x6000	0.0288 m 3	34 pcs.	31 m 2
Board 32x180x6000	0.0346 m 3	28 pcs.	31 m 2
Board 32x200x6000	0.0384 m 3	26 pcs.	31 m 2
Board 32x250x6000	0.048 m 3	20 pcs.	31 m 2
Fortieth
Board 40x100x6000	0.024 m 3	41 Item (s)	25 m 2
Board 40x120x6000	0.0288 m 3	34 pcs.	25 m 2
Board 40x150x6000	0.036 m 3	27 pcs.	25 m 2
Board 40x180x6000	0.0432 m 3	23 pcs.	25 m 2
Board 40x200x6000	0.048 m 3	20 pcs.	25 m 2
Board 40x250x6000	0.06 m 3	16 pcs.	25 m 2
Fifty
Board 50x100x6000	0.03 m 3	33 pcs.	20 m 2
Board 50x120x6000	0.036 m 3	27 pcs.	20 m 2
Board 50x150x6000	0.045 m 3	22 pcs.	20 m 2
Board 50x180x6000	0.054 m 3	18 pcs.	20 m 2
Board 50x200x6000	0.06 m 3	16 pcs.	20 m 2
Board 50x250x6000	0.075 m 3	13 pcs.	20 m 2

Table of the amount of timber in 1 cubic meter

Timber size	Volume of 1 piece (m³)	The amount of timber in 1m³ (pcs.)
100 × 100 × 6000	0.06 m 3	16 pcs.
100 × 150 × 6000	0.09 m 3	11 pcs.
150 × 150 × 6000	0.135 m 3	7 pcs.
100 × 180 × 6000	0.108 m 3	9 pcs.
150 × 180 × 6000	0.162 m 3	6 pcs.
180 × 180 × 6000	0.1944 m 3	5 pieces.
100 × 200 × 6000	0.12 m 3	8 pcs.
150 × 200 × 6000	0.18 m 3	5.5 pcs.
180 × 200 × 6000	0.216 m 3	4.5 pcs.
200 × 200 × 6000	0.24 m 3	4 things.
250 × 200 × 6000	0.3 m 3	3 pcs.

Table of the number of unedged boards in 1 cubic meter

Choosing the right floorboard is just as important as the construction of the floor. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the logs.

In the general case, the floorboard can be any lumber fixed to the joists. Most often, this name is understood as a tongue-and-groove board. This is lumber, which has three finished "finished" sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the lateral sides, tongue-and-groove piles are formed with a special machine: a groove on one side, a thorn on the other. When laying, the thorn is driven into a groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks formed during drying. And even a slightly cracked grooved floor looks good.

A tongue-and-groove board can have a comb of different shapes. It is most convenient for laying if it has a conical shape. The cone fits easily even with slight curvature of the boards. It is much more difficult to fight with a rectangular spike. If there are deviations, the board is not ideal, then you either have to suffer with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.

Also, floorboards come with a "quarter" molded protrusion. This is when half the width of the board is removed from one side from below, from the other - from above. This type is even easier to fit than the traditional tongue-and-groove board, while the floor looks no worse.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45 °. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and in aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has the shape of a rectangle in cross-section. It is laid close - end to end - and so it is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about baths, then when arranging leaking floors, it is the edged board that will be the best option. In other cases, preference should be given to options with any type of locks: when drying, the cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to the grooved solid wood board, there is also a glued one. It consists of several boards glued together. At the same time, the wood fibers are positioned so that under any conditions its geometry remains practically unchanged. If it does change, then it is several times less than massive. But due to the laboriousness of manufacturing such material, prices for it are high. But the floor from the glued board is almost guaranteed to be flat.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a decking board. It differs in that its front part is not even, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on it. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But during the construction of a bath, it can come in handy if you arrange a pool or hot tub on the porch. Having laid a deck board around the pool, you can not be afraid that someone will slip.

The deck board looks very attractive on the floor.

Any kind of sawn timber is in the Euro category. There is a floorboard euroboard, grooved or not, there is a terrace. The only difference is in the presence of a longitudinally located groove on the back side, which contributes to better ventilation. There must be a difference in the quality of the wood: no knots. But the best quality is not always available, and higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material, geometry.

Wood species for flooring

Any kind of wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and material capabilities. The purpose of the premises can also play a role.

For baths, a board of conifers is traditionally placed on the floor. She is the most inexpensive, and her quality indicators are quite good. Conifers contain a large amount of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which prolongs their life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is soft breeds and, if a lot of people are steamed, they quickly wear off. But if the bath is a family one, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.

Speaking specifically about the premises, the larch will behave better in "wet" conditions: it only gets stronger from the water. Pine and spruce are best placed in a dressing room or break room. They cannot stand the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.

They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more prone to rotting, and even more often it darkens from water. There are some more nuances that are determined only by experience. For example, oak wood is durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: it is very slippery when wet. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip rugs.

It looks like a grooved euro-board in profile

When installing a double plank floor for roughing and finishing, the boards must be taken from the same wood. For the rough floor, unedged will go (it is imperative to remove the bark and process it from bugs), for the finishing one - edged, grooved. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to the different magnitudes of expansion and contraction, the floor may move with changes in temperature and humidity.

Floor board dimensions

The minimum thickness of the boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the logs. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness of the lumber is needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the step of installing the lag

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some margin: taking into account the fact that periodically it will be necessary to update the appearance - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "end-to-end", after one or two grinding, the floorboards will begin to sag underfoot and creak - not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag step (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and faster installation. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, there are also some nuances. It is better not to take wide boards: with an increase in humidity, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that walking becomes problematic. Therefore, in the steam room or shower, a narrow or medium-wide board is used.

How many boards are in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floorboards, it is necessary to calculate how much they need to buy: lumber is sold per cubic meters.

There are no strict standards in this industry, just as there is no clear distinction between varieties. Some growers only distinguish two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to navigate on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are still not visible under the paint. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black knots are crumbling and falling out, but we don't need it.

There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make both three and two meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three meters will cost less than six meters. So if you don't need a long board, look for the right size: it will come out cheaper.

Now how to calculate the number of planks in a cube. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a 40 * 150 mm board. We convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m

We will take the standard length of 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one cube (we divide the unit by 0.036), we get 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the amount of any board or timber. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number in a cubic meter are calculated and entered in the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take with a margin of at least 10-15% (and preferably 30%). Firstly, there is always a marriage, and secondly, most likely in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a "propeller". And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those bought from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either it will not go in thickness, or there will be problems with a spike-groove. In general, some pieces should be in stock for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to determine the humidity. The most optimal option for baths is an average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a board of natural moisture, it will drive it during drying, there will be a lot of "skis" and "propellers". They can then be used only in the construction of fences. If we take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is medium humidity.

The first step to buying is to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, pay attention to the fact that the edges are even. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, this parameter should be checked when buying any high-quality sawn timber (except for unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board from one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When buying grooved boards, you should also pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the ridge and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly tuned machine, the opposite is often the case. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to make a floor without cracks. We'll have to either change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the spike.

There is one more mistake that is made in the production of grooved boards: the upper edge above the spike (ridge) is profiled more than the lower one. With such a defect, gaps are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this defect. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked in piles, shifting with bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying, it will be problematic to join them.

All of these shortcomings are fairly easy to identify. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the flaws are immediately visible. Calculate the dimensions of the spike and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly located above the spike. If all is well, take two planks and join them as if laying. If their geometry is not broken, they fit easily and without gaps. If the tests are successful, the tongue-and-groove floorboard is safe and easy to install.

How and what to fix

A few years ago, no discrepancies arose: the floorboard was nailed to the logs through and through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and then driven into the depths by the doboiner - this so that nothing could be seen. This can be done today too. And save money at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after a while, a large number of cracks appear in the plank floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added to the wall - how it goes. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle and without damaging the wood. Try to get a nail with a flattened head and not break the wood. No way. Therefore, more and more often they "sit" on self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: the nails are stronger, and the caps of self-tapping screws, especially those that are hardened, often fly off.

Thorn or groove?

For hidden fastening, self-tapping screws are not fastened through the boards, but into a spike or groove. It is possible and through and through, into the face, but then the hats will need to be drowned in the board, and the holes should be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in baths. If you take a putty for wood of the appropriate color, and add some wood dust from your boards into it, then even under a light varnish you will hardly see anything.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in a thorn, then the angle is less - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more reliably (captures ¾ of the thickness), although the “groove” method is more common.

In any case, you first need to drill a hole under the head with a larger drill and a smaller self-tapping screw. This operation, although it takes time, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Concealed attachment technology

The technology of hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through and through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better - they are attracted by clamps so that there are no cracks anywhere. Then fasteners are screwed or hammered into the groove or spike at an angle. If the wood is dense, self-tapping screws go hard. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, neither nails nor self-tapping screws are visible. But, if there is one drawback: only one edge of the board is attracted to the lag. When humidity changes, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, the other can rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it squeaks more often. Although, it's never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few self-tapping screws into the face.

What screws to take

What self-tapping screws to use for flooring in a bath? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the head itself. It will be safer to hold it this way. And it's better to take non-heated ones - they are stronger. For a bath, it is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the self-tapping screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times larger. It seems that according to the parameters of self-tapping screws - everything. With nails, everything is simpler: you need ordinary ones, but not screw or grooved - it is almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with a thread that does not start from the cap itself

There is one secret inherited from our ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in the bath, and they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use it. Shingles were nailed to the roofs with such nails, and they did not rust for decades.

So: with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners, you need to decide on your own. There are different opinions, and they are all based on experience - their own or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add your own. But remember that after a year or two, the floor will have to be touched. So for the first time it is worth fastening to a minimum of nails or self-tapping screws - as you decide. Then, already shrunken, it will be possible to fix it thoroughly.

How the floorboard is installed and how the clamps are used to eliminate cracks, see the video.

A device for tightening floorboards can be made with your own hands according to the attached video instruction.

Calculation of building materials for a wooden floor: the amount of floorboards and log materials, floor area. Dotted lines show lags. Floorboards and subfloors are arranged horizontally.

Rough floor- this is a "lining" for the main coating. It is needed to level the surface and distribute the load on the floor covering. Usually the subfloor is laid on lags(frame bars) with a certain distance from each other. If necessary, insulation and waterproofing are laid between the logs.

It is better to fix the subfloor and main floor boards with screws of the required size. Laying with small gaps is allowed, as the tree can shrink and expand.

Step between lags depends on the thickness of the boards of the future coating:

Thickness - step (both values ​​in centimeters):

2 – 30; 2,4 – 40; 3 – 50; 3,5 – 60; 4 – 70; 4,5 – 80; 5 – 100.

Floor area= floor length * floor width.
S = a * b.
Lag length equal to the length of the floor.
Number of lags= 1 + floor width / distance between logs.
nl = 1 + b / S3.
The volume of materials lag= lag width * lag thickness * lag length * amount of lag.
V = S1 * S2 * a * nl.
Volume between lags= distance between lags / lag width * lag thickness * lag length * (number of lags - 1).
V1 = S3 / S1 * S2 * a * (nl-1).

Number of rows of floorboards= room length / floorboard width.
nп = a / O1.
Floorboard volume= floorboard width * floorboard thickness * floor width * number of floorboard rows.
Vp = O1 * O2 * b * np.

The number of rows of boards "rough floor"= 1 + floor length / (width of sub-floor boards + distance between boards).
nh = 1 + a / (O3 + R).
Board volume= board width * floor length * board thickness * number of boards.
V = O3 * a * O4 * nh.

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Types of boards

• Calculation of the log of a wooden floor

How to calculate the number of boards per floor

Floor board how to calculate the quantity

There are no particular difficulties in calculating the required amount of floorboards, however, even in such simple calculations, there are small nuances.

Floor area calculation

1. First, it is necessary to conditionally divide the entire floor area into equal rectangles.

Having decided to buy a floorboard, you must first calculate the volume of the order.

Much depends on this, the boards must be from the same batch.

They usually proceed as follows:

• - conventionally take one room for a rectangle,
• also take the corridor for the rectangle
• etc.

If the room is not rectangular, then you can conditionally divide it into rectangles.

Then measure the area of ​​each of the rectangles, measuring before that:

Multiplying the length with the width, we get the area (S), which is known to be measured in square meters (m2).

2. Secondly, it is necessary to convert millimeters and centimeters to meters.

• Recall that 1 m = 100 cm = 1000 mm.

And now about the actual calculation of the floor area, and, accordingly, the number of boards on the floor.

Let's start by calculating the area of ​​the floor board of one of the rooms:

• It is calculated by the formula S = a h, where S is the area, a is the width, h is the length.

For example, a room of 7 meters by 5 meters is calculated as follows: S = a h = 7 5 = 35 m2

If you have several rectangles, then you need to act in the same way as described above when finding the areas of the rectangles, then add the resulting area values ​​and find the final area.

S = a1 h1 + a2 h2 + a3 h3 ,:

• where S is the total area,
• a1, a2, a3 - the widths of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd rectangles,
• h1, h2, h3 - the lengths of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd rectangles.

• So, for example, the total area of ​​three rooms (1st - 3m by 4m; 2nd - 5m by 4m; 3rd - 7m by 6m)
• S = a1 h1 + a2 h2 + a3 h3 = 3 4 + 5 4 + 7 6 = 12 + 20 + 42 = 74 m2

Calculation of the number of running meters of the floor board

With regard to the calculation of running meters or a certain number of boards.

We calculate the total area of ​​the order, as described above.

Linear meters have:

• width (W)
• and length (D).
• S = a h = running meters board width.

Order value = S cost per m2 of floor board.

For example, we need 40 running meters of a floorboard that is 100 mm wide and 35 mm thick.

• We translate millimeters into meters 100 mm = 0.1 m, we get that S of the order is equal to the product of linear meters and the width of the board, that is, S = 40 0.1 = 4 m2
• Price of 1 m2 = 85 UAH / m2, Order cost = S order Cost = 4 85 = UAH 340.

If the number of boards with a known length and width of the board is known, then the calculations are similar and are performed according to the formula:

• S order = number of boards board length board width.

If you know the total area of ​​the order and at the same time you need to calculate the number of boards, then you can use the formulas:

• Linear meters = S order / board width,
• Number of boards = running meters / board length.

• Order volume = S order board thickness (in meters).

Edged boards are in greatest demand in the sawn timber market. Their distinctive feature is four-sided processing and removal of edges with tree bark. The high demand for this type of building materials is explained by their practicality, durability, environmental friendliness and ease of use.

The main areas of application of edged boards are construction and furniture production. In construction, this material can be used for laying floors, ceilings, walls and stairs. In furniture production, boards are used to create solid wood furniture.

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• Calculate the surface area to be covered (eg 10 * 10 = 100 m²);
• Calculate the area of ​​one board (for example, with the parameters of the board 20cm * 5cm * 2000 cm, the area of ​​one will be equal to 0.2m * 2m = 0.4m²);
• Divide the surface area by the area of ​​one board (100 m² / 0.4 m² = 250 pieces).

To calculate the number of boards when buying in cubes, you must:

• Calculate the required number of boards (divide the surface area by the area of ​​one board);
• Calculate the required cubic capacity by multiplying the parameters of the board by the required amount (for example, you need 20 pieces of boards with the parameter 20cm * 5cm * 2000cm, which means the required volume is 20 * 0.2 * 0.05 * 2 = 0.4 m³). In this case, all values ​​must be converted from centimeters to meters.

Types of boards

There are several types of boards that differ in purpose and technical characteristics. Depending on the degree of humidity, there are:

• Raw - boards of natural moisture. It can be used in the construction of low-critical structures.
• Dry - industrially dried. Drying is carried out to avoid deformation of the board and to prevent rotting.

Depending on the quality of the boards, the material is distinguished:

• Selected grade - used in the automotive and shipbuilding industries;
• The first grade - in addition to shipbuilding and the automotive industry, is used in construction and furniture production;
• Second grade - used in the same areas as the material of the first grade;
• The third grade is the production of furniture and packaging products;
• The fourth grade is used for the production of containers and packaging.

  Calculation of boards on the floor: calculator, how to calculate

By the type of cut, the boards are divided into:

• Radial - the saw cut passes in the middle of the trunk, at an angle of 90⁰, due to which the material has high strength and moisture resistance;
• Semi-radial - the cut passes at an angle of 45⁰, the material is of the middle price category;
• Tangential - the most economical type of sawing, boards of this type are more susceptible to moisture. Drying deformation is possible.

Calculator of the number of boards in 1 cube.
Table of sections of sawn timber.

Calculator for calculating the number of boards (timber) in one cubic meter in cross-section and length

ANSWER: in one cube 0 pcs.

The calculator knows the number of boards (timber) - how many cubes are these?

ANSWER: such boards (timber) are 0 m3 worth 0 rubles

Table of standard sizes of sections of boards and beams.

The sections of the boards and beams have standard dimensions that correspond to GOST 24454-80 "Sawn softwood. Sizes"

Thickness, mm	Width, mm
16	75	100	125	150	—	—	—	—	—
19	75	100	125	150	175	—	—	—	—
22	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	—	—
25	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
32	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
40	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
44	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
50	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
60	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
75	75	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
100	—	100	125	150	175	200	225	250	275
125	—	—	125	150	175	200	225	250	—
150	—	—	—	150	175	200	225	250	—
175	—	—	—	—	175	200	225	250	—
200	—	—	—	—	—	200	225	250	—
250	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	250	—

Table of how many 6 meter boards are in one cube

For boards with a standard length of 6 meters, the following table is calculated.

We calculate the number of boards - degree of humidity, calculation by the piece

Small section sawn timber available in retail sale is of course less than 6 meters. This is usually 3 m or 2.5 m. To calculate the number of any custom sizes, use the calculator at the top of the page.

P / p No.	Section size, mm	Length, mm	Quantity in 1 cube, pcs	The area that can be sewn up using 1 cube, m2
1	16x75	6000	138,89	62,50
2	16x100	6000	104,17	62,50
3	16x125	6000	83,33	62,50
4	16x150	6000	69,44	62,50
5	19x75	6000	116,96	52,63
6	19x100	6000	87,72	52,63
7	19x125	6000	70,18	52,63
8	19x150	6000	58,48	52,63
9	19x175	6000	50,13	52,63
10	22x75	6000	101,01	45,45
11	22x100	6000	75,76	45,45
12	22x125	6000	60,61	45,45
13	22x150	6000	50,51	45,45
14	22x175	6000	43,29	45,45
15	22x200	6000	37,88	45,45
16	22x225	6000	33,67	45,45
17	25x75	6000	88,89	40,00
18	25x100	6000	66,67	40,00
19	25x125	6000	53,33	40,00
20	25x150	6000	44,44	40,00
21	25x175	6000	38,10	40,00
22	25x200	6000	33,33	40,00
23	25x225	6000	29,63	40,00
24	25x250	6000	26,67	40,00
25	25x275	6000	24,24	40,00
26	32x75	6000	69,44	31,25
27	32x100	6000	52,08	31,25
28	32x125	6000	41,67	31,25
29	32x150	6000	34,72	31,25
30	32x175	6000	29,76	31,25
31	32x200	6000	26,04	31,25
32	32x225	6000	23,15	31,25
33	32x250	6000	20,83	31,25
34	32x275	6000	18,94	31,25
35	40x75	6000	55,56	25,00
36	40x100	6000	41,67	25,00
37	40x125	6000	33,33	25,00
38	40x150	6000	27,78	25,00
39	40x175	6000	23,81	25,00
40	40x200	6000	20,83	25,00
41	40x225	6000	18,52	25,00
42	40x250	6000	16,67	25,00
43	40x275	6000	15,15	25,00
44	44x75	6000	50,51	22,73
45	44x100	6000	37,88	22,73
46	44x125	6000	30,30	22,73
47	44x150	6000	25,25	22,73
48	44x175	6000	21,65	22,73
49	44x200	6000	18,94	22,73
50	44x225	6000	16,84	22,73
51	44x250	6000	15,15	22,73
52	44x275	6000	13,77	22,73
53	50x75	6000	44,44	20,00
54	50x100	6000	33,33	20,00
55	50x125	6000	26,67	20,00
56	50x150	6000	22,22	20,00
57	50x175	6000	19,05	20,00
58	50x200	6000	16,67	20,00
59	50x225	6000	14,81	20,00
60	50x250	6000	13,33	20,00
61	50x275	6000	12,12	20,00
62	60x75	6000	37,04	16,67
63	60x100	6000	27,78	16,67
64	60x125	6000	22,22	16,67
65	60x150	6000	18,52	16,67
66	60x175	6000	15,87	16,67
67	60x200	6000	13,89	16,67
68	60x225	6000	12,35	16,67
69	60x250	6000	11,11	16,67
70	60x275	6000	10,10	16,67
71	75x75	6000	29,63	13,33
72	75x100	6000	22,22	13,33
73	75x125	6000	17,78	13,33
74	75x150	6000	14,81	13,33
75	75x175	6000	12,70	13,33
76	75x200	6000	11,11	13,33
77	75x225	6000	9,88	13,33
78	75x250	6000	8,89	13,33
79	75x275	6000	8,08	13,33
80	100x100	6000	16,67	10,00
81	100x125	6000	13,33	10,00
82	100x150	6000	11,11	10,00
83	100x175	6000	9,52	10,00
84	100x200	6000	8,33	10,00
85	100x225	6000	7,41	10,00
86	100x250	6000	6,67	10,00
87	100x275	6000	6,06	10,00
88	125x125	6000	10,67	8,00
89	125x150	6000	8,89	8,00
90	125x175	6000	7,62	8,00
91	125x200	6000	6,67	8,00
92	125x225	6000	5,93	8,00
93	125x250	6000	5,33	8,00
94	150x150	6000	7,41	6,67
95	150x175	6000	6,35	6,67
96	150x200	6000	5,56	6,67
97	150x225	6000	4,94	6,67
98	150x250	6000	4,44	6,67
99	175x175	6000	5,44	5,71
100	175x200	6000	4,76	5,71
101	175x225	6000	4,23	5,71
102	175x250	6000	3,81	5,71
103	200x200	6000	4,17	5,00
104	200x225	6000	3,70	5,00
105	200x250	6000	3,33	5,00
106	250x250	6000	2,67	4,00

Calculation of boards for the floor is an important point at the stage of repair or construction of a house.

Scheme for calculating boards on the floor.

The board is the optimal material for the subfloor.

But before buying it, it is important to make a careful calculation, otherwise it may happen that too many units are purchased and a large amount of money is wasted. Those who think that when there is a shortage of coverage there is always an opportunity to buy the missing part of the material, you need to know that for a successful installation process they must be from the same batch. The most popular options for flooring are the following types of wood: timber, unedged, edged and planed boards. In each case, the required amount of lumber is calculated differently. This is due to the fact that each material has individual characteristics that must be taken into account during the calculation.

So, how can you make the correct calculation of the amount of lumber?

Find out the size of square meters

Scheme for calculating the required number of boards on the floor.

1. For this, the room is conventionally divided into a rectangle, if it does not have a strict rectangular shape, then it is divided into several rectangular parts, which are then measured. Measurements are designed to find out the area of ​​the room. The following formula will help you find it out: S = a × b, where S is the area, a is the width of the room, b is its length. The result will show you the required amount of square meters of coverage to be laid on the floor.
2. If the room is not rectangular, the area is calculated for each rectangle separately, after which the resulting figures are to be added.

   Lag and floorboard calculator

   For example: S = (a1 × b1) + (a2 × b2) + (a3 × b3), where S is the final area, a1, a2, a3 is the width of 1, 2, 3 rectangles, b1, b2, b3 is the length of 1 , 2, 3 rectangles. You can use these calculations not only when the room is not rectangular, but also if you need to calculate the total amount of material in several rooms at once.

We calculate running meters

In order to find out how many boards are enough for lining the floor, a ready-made rule will help you:

S = a × b = the width of the timber × linear meters.

It is quite easy to find out the number of boards it will take to cover the floor. To do this, you need to use the following calculation: S = a × b × the number of lumber.

Or with ready-made calculations:

Quantity = Sum of running meters / b

So, in order to successfully calculate how much lumber will take to cover, you will need the following:

• availability of ready-made formulas;
• calculator;
• information about segments a and b in the room;
• information about the thickness of the timber, its length and width;
• roulette;
• pencil and notepad.

Thus, anyone can do the calculations. With the necessary formulas at hand and with minimal knowledge of mathematics, you can easily learn the squaring of the required lumber for flooring.

How to calculate the amount and volume of lumber for the construction of your house, bathhouse, veranda

The first step is to decide on the amount of work and on the materials from which you will build a house, a bathhouse or attach a veranda. Softwood lumber is best suited for any construction. Coniferous wood is light in weight, has natural antiseptic properties, and is most resistant to our climate.

If you have capital construction, then you will definitely need a bar. But what size depends on your plans. For one-story light buildings, you can buy a beam with a thickness of 100-150 mm. For higher and capital buildings, a thickness of 200 or more is required. It is worth deciding on the construction budget. The most demanded timber is planed. Its plus is the lowest cost. He has a clear geometry, it is easy to work with him. Houses made of planed timber have good thermal insulation and accumulate less moisture. However, buildings made of such a bar give a slight shrinkage when they dry. Therefore, do not rush to make a decision, think carefully about what you want to get as a result.

If you need to make wall cladding, lay floors or attach a summer veranda, then you will need a board, edged or unedged

How to calculate the cubic capacity of lumber

Before starting any construction, it is important to correctly calculate the lumber. How many beams you need to buy to erect walls or make support structures, how many boards you need to cover the required number of square meters, it is easy to calculate.

Calculation of the floor, lag and floorboard

We multiply the length and width of the board and get the area of ​​one board. It is more difficult to calculate how many cubic meters of lumber you need to buy in production. This information will be useful both for newcomers to construction and for customers who want to monitor construction crews and keep abreast of construction materials costs. Indeed, often builders are cunning and hammer into the estimate much more lumber than is needed for the construction of one project. Where the surplus goes is easy to guess. Knowledge of basic calculations will allow you to avoid deception and achieve quality work.

Lumber for the construction of load-bearing structures - beams, large-section boards - are calculated and sold not by the piece, but in cubic meters. The price in the price lists is indicated exactly for a cubic meter of sawn timber. Correct calculation will help to avoid unnecessary construction costs and will not allow a shortage of material when you need to pay for another delivery and interrupt work. Experienced craftsmen usually take lumber with a small margin.

The calculation of the cubic capacity depends on the type of lumber.

Beams and edged boards have clear geometric contours and constant values ​​of length, thickness and width. It is easy to calculate the cubic capacity here: you need to multiply the three known dimensions of the board, you get the cubic capacity of one board. To find out the number of pieces in a cube, you need to divide 1 cubic meter by the cubic capacity of the board.

It is important to know that cubic capacity is determined by GOSTs; you can use lumber tables with ready-made calculations.

GOST planed timber cubes table

Enterprises that have been working on the market for a long time and value their reputation clearly comply with all the requirements of GOSTs, and when buying sawn timber, the quantity will be clear and predictable.

Unedged board is not processed on the sides, different parts of the logs go to it, therefore its width is not constant. Therefore, it is possible to calculate the volume of the required lumber, having counted the cubic capacity of one board, only approximately.

For surface cladding, piece lumber is used - a small section edged board, planed board, lining, imitation of a bar.

Experienced craftsmen quickly make all the necessary calculations. For those who do not have much experience, it is better to turn to specialists in order to avoid mistakes and correctly determine the type of lumber and its required volume. The best and most reliable information about lumber is held by manufacturers, not by the employees of the resale companies. Therefore, it is better to contact the manufacturers for advice, advice and purchase.

Employees of our company "Industrial Complex Technologies" will help make all the necessary calculations and determine the amount of lumber. We are not trying to sell you as much timber or boards as possible. Our task is to make your construction or renovation the least expensive and provide you with high-quality sawn softwood in the amount you need. We will deliver the goods to any point in Vladimir, Moscow, Ryazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Ivanovo, Yaroslavl regions. The closest cities to us are Kolchugino, Aleksandrov, Kirzhach, Vladimir, Yuryev-Polsky.

Before buying a floorboard, you need to calculate how many cubes of sawn timber are needed for a particular design. At the same time, an accurate calculation can be done using a conventional calculator, knowing the area of ​​the room and the thickness of the board. Such skills will be useful to you not only in order to calculate the volume of lumber for flooring, but also if you decide to build a house, because wood products are used for the construction of various structures.

Since the price of all lumber on sale is charged per cubic meter, it is important to be able to calculate the need for this particular unit of measurement. This is how not only the number of boards is counted, but also other sawn timber, for example, timber, slats, etc. The thing is that products with the same section may differ in length. Therefore, after determining the volume, you can understand how many floorboards there will be in one cube.

It is important to know: when buying a board made of valuable wood, the products are sold per piece. The thing is that the price of such coatings is too high, and when calculating in cubes, there is a small error.

When calculating, it is better to use a regular calculator. So you can get a more accurate result and take into account all the nuances of the future design of the house. Although if you need to find out how many cubes of a board, for example, 50 mm thick, will be needed for flooring, you can also use an online calculator. He will be able to perform such a simple calculation correctly. However, it is always helpful to be able to count the amount of lumber by hand.

When building a house or laying a floor, the calculation is carried out in the same order:

1. First, you need to calculate the total volume of lumber in cubes. Knowing the moisture content of the wood, you can determine the weight of the entire material. This will help you decide which shipping method to use for your items.

Advice: when ordering a carrier, it is better to indicate an overweight (10-15% more). So you will not have problems with the cargo, because the moisture content of the wood declared by the manufacturer may be slightly more or less.

1. Further, knowing the dimensions of the boards, you need to calculate the volume of one element. Then you can find out how many products will be in a cube. By multiplying this number by the number of cubes, you will get the total number of floorboards for your floor structure.

However, such a simple calculation is applicable for edged elements, because they are processed from all sides and when they are stored in a pile, there are practically no gaps left. To calculate how many cubes of unedged boards are needed for flooring, you will have to use a correction factor, because due to the untreated sides of the product, there will be too many gaps left when stacked in a stack.

Calculation example

Suppose that in a house you want to cover a room with a size of 5x6 m with a floorboard 50 mm thick.Calculation of the volume of lumber and the number of products is carried out in the following sequence:

• We find the area of ​​the room: 6x5 = 30 m².
• Since we decided to use a board with a thickness of 50 mm or 0.05 m, the lag step can be made 1 meter.
• Knowing the thickness of the element and the area of ​​the room, we get the volume of lumber: 30 m² x 0.05 m = 1.5 m³.
• Now using the calculator, you can calculate how many floorboards you need. For this, knowing the dimensions of the floorboard, we calculate its volume: 2m x 0.05 mx 0.13 m = 0.013 m³. Now we divide the total volume of lumber by the resulting number for an element with a thickness of 50 mm: 1.5: 0.013 = 115 boards.

Thus, using a regular calculator, you can calculate the need for other lumber for building a house: lining, timber, slats.