If you are faced with the task of leveling the walls with drywall and you want to solve it by installing drywall, then the option of using a wooden frame may be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow you to place a sound and heat-insulating layer in the inter-wall space, which will certainly increase the comfort of the room.
True, it is necessary to take into account some important factors related to the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of operation (a beginner can handle the installation of drywall on a wooden frame), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame surpasses most alternative options.
However, it can only be used in rooms with medium or even low humidity. The wood is subject to rapid decay, the risk of damage by insects, this material is a fire hazard: therefore, if you want your structure to last for a long time,
it is necessary to subject this material to special processing, in the form of impregnation.
Installation of a partition on a wooden frame
In addition, a wooden frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty in mounting such a frame can arise if you are dealing with an uneven wall. In this case, adjusting the structure in one plane, you will either have to put wedges under the sagging bars, or cut off part of the bar thickness in places where the wall plane protrudes.
Finished wooden cladding frame
But first things first.
First of all, we make a wall sag. To do this, using a system of plumb lines, we determine the optimal location of the plane in which the drywall sheets will be located.
It is necessary to ensure that this plane is completely vertical. Next, we mount two vertical bars along the edges of the wall so that the outer side
the bar was strictly in our intended plane. To do this job, you will need an assistant. The bars are attached to the wall with a plastic dowel. To do this, a hole is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
dowel diameter and length. The dowel is carefully hammered into the hole. With this work, there is a certain subtlety: it is practically impossible to drill a hole for a screw in a beam in such a way that it exactly matches the dowel in the wall.
Therefore, they act according to the opposite scenario: they apply the beam to the wall and first drill a hole in the beam for the screw, when the drill forms a through hole in the beam, it marks exactly the place on the wall where
you can already safely drill a hole for the dowel. When all the holes for this bar are drilled, the dowels are driven in, the bar is again applied to the wall and is already firmly screwed with screws.
If you are mounting a massive beam, then you can immediately drill through holes through the beam with a drill, without a drill. True, while doing this you should use screws with large hats.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed, the rest of the structure is mounted between them.
Laying soundproofing material in the crate space
In this case, simple rules should be followed: the crate should be evenly distributed along the wall,
excluding the presence of large voids. In places where an increased load on the surface of the walls is expected (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.), the crate must be strengthened.
As a rule, for each sheet of drywall, at least two vertical bars are required. Vertical bars are mounted in increments of about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of drywall will be attached should be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal drywall joints are reinforced with additional horizontal bars. The same must be done with the crate of any openings or holes - they are sheathed around the perimeter.
The main task - namely, ensuring the location of all the outer sides of the crate in the same plane can be solved in two ways.
First, a cord is stretched between two vertical bars and the remaining structural elements are mounted in such a way that the outer side slightly touches the cord.
The second way is to set additional horizontal bars at the top and bottom, using the rule to ensure their location in the same plane as the vertical bars.
Now apply the rest of the crate.
Finished wooden frame with mineral wool insulation
The next step is to install the insulating layer. Materials that are used in this case: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foam rubber or combinations of these materials.
Hard-to-reach places are treated with polyurethane foam.
You can learn about the technology of installing drywall on a metal frame.
It is necessary to ensure the most dense filling of the intra-wall space with insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not protrude beyond the plane of the crate, as this will complicate the subsequent installation of drywall.
Finished wall cladding with ceiling frame
Finally, you can proceed to the final stage of work - the installation of drywall sheets. Installation begins with whole sheets. Screws are screwed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the sheet, in increments of 30-40 cm.
When screwing screws, you should monitor the degree of effort applied, avoiding thread breakage - turning the screw.
Drywall is great for interior wall decoration. With its help, you can make absolutely smooth walls, while only a real professional can achieve such a result with just plaster. Drywall is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.
There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One is to attach drywall to wood slats. In this way, you can hide communications running along the wall (for example, pipes and wires), as well as make additional heat and sound insulation.
Tools and materials:
- Laths from soft grades of wood. The optimal section is 100 × 50 mm or 75 × 50 mm, but less is possible.
- Drywall screws
- screwdriver
- Wall dowels
- Drill
Advice. Sound and heat insulating material can be laid under the drywall sheets. For greater effect, you can use heat-insulating drywall.
Process:
- With chalk, draw marking lines for fastening the rails along the perimeter of the wall and for vertical rails. Calculate the spacing between the vertical battens so that the edges of each drywall sheet are in the middle of the next batten. Cut the slats to the required length with a saw.
- We fasten the rails to the wall. Use dowels and a drill.
- Between the attached racks of those de wooden slats, install spacers. They must be adjusted to the size of the drywall sheets so that the joints between the sheets fall in the middle of the spacer. However, nail the slats at different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive nails into their ends.
- In those places where the slats do not fit snugly against the wall, place supports from scraps of wood or drywall between them and the wall.
- When the base mesh is ready, we begin to fix the drywall. Recall that its edges should pass exactly in the middle of the racks and struts. For fasteners, it is best to use screws - they will reduce the risk of splitting drywall. Mark the fastener every 15 mm and so that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the material. Where the drywall sheet is too large, cut it to size with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
- We seal the joints between the sheets of drywall. Use adhesive reinforcing tape to seal the seams or regular tape, sticking it with a small amount of plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, seal them first with plaster, and then with tape. Cover the tape on top with putty so that you get a very sloping imperceptible elevation along the seam. After sanding and painting it will be invisible.
- The wall is ready! Now you can cover it with plaster or do the usual finish, for example, glue the wallpaper.
This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wood battens and make installing drywall to wood framing quick and easy.
Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame
Cladding of walls and ceilings of internal premises is a fast, inexpensive and fairly labor-intensive modern method of finishing the interiors of civil and public buildings.
There are several options for plasterboard sheathing (GKL):
- Direct installation, it can be done with a gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have an even prepared base
- A wooden or metal frame for drywall should be used if the work surface has distortions, severe waviness, tuberosity and other irregularities
As a frame structure, both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements - a rail, a bar, a board can serve. A possible frame for drywall made of wood may be preferable to a metal profile, since installing drywall with your own hands on a wooden frame is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood is easy to process - drilled, sawn.
Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing, refusing to purchase quite expensive metal profiles. However, a drywall frame made of wood is not recommended when the room has high humidity - in bathrooms, boiler rooms, showers and bathrooms.
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Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall
How to make a wooden frame for drywall? If a partition is sheathed, it is usually a three-layer structure made of edged boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer from horizontal ones. If the installation of the partition is done neatly and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for plasterboard from boards, to which, without any preparation, using self-tapping screws, you can fasten panels from plasterboard.
The use of a board for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, as this will lead to an overrun of the material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For facing concrete, brick, logs, as well as old warped walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber for drywall.
Many are interested in whether drywall can be mounted on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a bar and a rail) in relation to the installation of drywall is insignificant, the installation of drywall on wooden slats and the installation of drywall on bars practically do not differ from each other.
Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame
Can drywall be fixed to wooden blocks if they are simply fixed to the walls or ceiling? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden bars. In how to fix the beam to drywall, a small instruction for installing drywall on a wooden frame from a beam will help.
For drywall, panels with the following dimensions are most widely used: 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. At the same time, the installation of panels on a frame structure made of wood of different types and characteristics (moisture resistant, hardened, etc.) has the same scope of work.
Procurement of the necessary materials, fixtures and tools
To determine the required number of GKL slabs, it is necessary to draw a sketch plan for the development of walls and ceilings with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, for heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one GKL has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and contingencies), which will be the number of panels required.
- for fastening adjacent plates - with dimensions of 80 x 25 mm (first type)
- for intermediate vertical and horizontal fasteners - with dimensions of 40 x 25 mm (second type)
It is necessary to put on the plan vertical and horizontal axes, along which frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of drywall to wooden bars. Its design scheme will be:
- two vertical beams of the first type 2500 mm long along the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the line of axes 1200 mm
- two vertical beams of the second type, 2500 mm long, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm
- six horizontal bars of the second type, installed at the top and bottom of the slab
- three intermediate ones, which must be installed along axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the plate; the length of the extreme bars will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 \u003d 340 mm, the length of the middle ones - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 \u003d 360 mm
Additionally, bars of the second type should be used to frame window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal beam is replaced with a beam with a section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that an additional 40 mm serves to fasten the top panel from a GKL sheet cut to the appropriate length, the length of the vertical beams of the first and second should also be increased type and the top beam of the second type is installed.
After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased at the construction market or made in a woodworking workshop. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the absence of oblique and increased branchiness in them.
Before using for at least one week, the entire set of wooden beams must be aged in the room in which it will be used. After that, a rejection should be carried out, and the rest should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent rotting and damage by fungi and mold, flame retardants that give fire retardant properties. Currently, deep penetration impregnations are commercially available that provide protection for wood and prevent warping during fluctuations in humidity in a room within a fairly wide range.
In the manufacture and installation of the frame, it is necessary to follow the drawn plan.
Required Tools
Tools and equipment that will be required to complete the work:
- wood saw
- construction knife
- building corner
- steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long
- bubble level
- water level (when facing the ceiling)
- plumb line
- a hammer
- electric screwdriver
- ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use self-made building scaffolding goats
- protective equipment (hand gloves, goggles, respirators)
General provisions
The assembly of the frame and its installation from individual prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment in horizontal and vertical planes is required with the constant use of a plumb line, level, building square and rail-rule.
If the length and width of the room allow, an enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. At the same time, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach, respectively, in the vertical and horizontal planes.
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The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected to each other using pieces of tin metal strip of the desired width (25 mm) bent at a right angle or through small blocks. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with the help of screws.
The installation of frame fragments on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using the so-called “plugs”, when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point in the wall, into which a wooden chopstick, into which, in turn, a nail is driven through the frame element or a screw is screwed in, while instead of a chopstick, you can use a plastic dowel with a metal self-tapping screw.
After installing and leveling the frame, with significant tuberosity and distortions between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form, which should be filled with gypsum mortar (if the tree was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use mounting foam or wooden wedges and linings together with glue glue for wood, such as PVA. Otherwise, the wooden frame for plasterboard on the wall (or ceiling) will have increased fragility and may be deformed when the GKL panels are installed.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame
After installation and alignment on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame structure, you can begin to fasten the drywall to the wooden frame by directly mounting the GKL panels. In how to fix the bars to drywall, the following instructions will help.
To mount a plasterboard sheet, it must be pressed tightly against the mounted wooden frame structure, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type beam with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.
Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the GKL sheet on the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, it is better to draw lines on the outer side of the drywall sheet with a pencil corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.
After that, you need to fix the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel is to be mounted on a wall, its verticality and the absence of distortions must be checked using a plumb line, and on the ceiling - using a level.
Then the sheet can be fastened with vertical posts. When tightening the screws, it should be noted that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet must be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.
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The instruction on how drywall should be mounted on the ceiling is not much different from how to mount the plasterboard on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, a horizontal crate in the form of a frame is also arranged, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and aligned horizontally using a water level. For the convenience of its installation, it is also better to pre-mount the enlarged elements of the frame on the floor.
In order to mount a frame from a drywall beam on the ceiling and sheathe it with plasterboard, your hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use supports and braces that can help you install drywall on bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise associated with the fall and destruction of drywall sheets.
For leveling or redevelopment of living space, partitions made of GVL or drywall are used. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.
In addition to the standard GKL, there are such types of material:
- moisture resistant;
- fire resistant;
Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, fire-resistant is used for other rooms (kitchen, office space).
Moisture resistant drywallGKL is great for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room in a natural way.
For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum-fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:
- GVL is heavier than GKL;
- costs more.
Characteristics of a wooden frame
GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.
A timber frame is cheaper than a metal one, it is made from wooden planks and bars, softwood is usually used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be on the wall.
Material requirements:
- The moisture content of wood is from 12 to 18%;
- Fire treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
- The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.
Before use, wooden slats are treated with protective agents against fire and pests, looked through for knots and irregularities.
Base fixing
Screwing drywall parts onto wooden slats must be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.
Construction tools:
- a hammer;
- perforator;
- nails;
- building level;
- self-tapping screws;
- mounting dowels;
- metal corners.
If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.
Base fastening technology Stages of work:
- The partition is preliminarily marked on the ceiling with the help of a level, then the wooden frame is fixed;
- Fix the strapping bars, starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after it - the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
- Having fixed the bars on the ceiling, they make markings on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to mount the frame.
- After checking the compliance of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is observed at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars with high quality, since the main load will fall on them.
- After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.
Mounting GKL on the base
Begin sheathing from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.
Facing When sheathed with material on only one side, then the insulation is laid and the electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.
During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling cables, but if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.
If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.
Tips for beginners:
- When mounting the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
- To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the joints of the gypsum plasterboard fall exactly in the middle of the vertical racks.
isolation
Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.
Structural insulation For this, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene is suitable. Rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.
Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.
Read also: Arrangement of an apartment building.
Working with irregularities
If suddenly the base is uneven, the unevenness should be identified with the help of a beam. For this:
- Lay a beam along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
- Vertically lean the rack wood beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the butt behind its exit on the floor.
It is important to install the frame evenly so that the whole structure comes out even.
If there are difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, the video will help:
Advantages of using GKL
This material has a number of advantages over other raw materials:
- low cost and assembly costs;
- little weight;
- fast installation;
- the best sound and heat insulation;
- the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
- wall alignment;
- installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
- after installation, there is little debris and dust left.
If everything is done correctly, as a final touch, it remains to complete the decorative wall decoration. And drywall constructions will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.
In contact with
To work with drywall, various materials are used. The most common method of building profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.
Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.
Wood preparation
Physical Properties
The frame for drywall is made from high-quality coniferous wood.
Make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.
Main physical characteristics:
- Humidity from 12 to 18%;
- For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for the crate is used;
- For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and battens, while depending on the height, different thicknesses of the plasterboard are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 ×14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
- The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
- Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
- Connection on nails, spikes and self-tapping screws is allowed, while spikes are most preferable, as they create a rigid and durable connection;
- The thickness of sound insulation made of mineral wool should be between 50 and 60 mm;
- The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
- The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.
Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie down for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.
You should use high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates on the processing of the material with flame retardants and the passage of relevant examinations by authorized bodies.
Chemical processing
Treatment with an antiseptic is a condition for the long service life of lumber.
In addition to fire treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.
This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:
- Fungal and mold microorganisms. A tree can serve as a nutrient medium for the mycelium of a number of molds and not only fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and collapses;
- biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
- carpenter insects. Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
- rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.
Insect pests can damage wood in a short time.
Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.
It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The limiting solubility is 3.5 - 4%.
Sodium fluoride sinks well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode the metal, has no smell and is not toxic to humans. Fairly strong antiseptic.
An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.
Sodium silicofluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it to pure sodium fluoride.
The use of oily antiseptics is unacceptable for residential premises:
- creosote,
- coal,
- shale,
- anthracene oils.
These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.
Installation of a wooden frame under drywall
Tracing lines connecting partition walls to walls
Use the 3 or 4 meter rule to draw lines.
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply, mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also the article How to Build a Drywall Partition: Features.)
To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it by the width of the GKL sheet.
It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.
A centered weight with an axis indicator should be used as a plumb line.
We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.
This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where the legs correspond to the 3rd and 4th, and the hypotenuse to the 5th.
At the same time, one leg is set aside along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of the 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we build an arc of a circle in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.
Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius that is a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
Connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original low point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.
In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. With the help of a level or plumb line, we transfer this point to the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also Drywall Niches in the Wall: How to Make.)
Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we should get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.
Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.
Frame mounting
Wooden frame for plasterboard partitions.
As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.
To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, bars should be fixed. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.
If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.
The Knauf bracket can be used to mount the beams to the wall.
We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located near the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.
So, we fix all the bars, for drilling holes in the walls and ceiling we use an impact drill with a drill for concrete.
Doorway
The doorway is formed by double risers.
When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.
Racks
Racks should be installed vertically in level.
To determine the location of the jumper (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and place the jumper in place of its edge so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.
Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal linings designed for assembling truss systems.
These fasteners are reliable and designed for significant loads.
We check each detail according to the level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be strictly horizontal.
You should also try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.
All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame are easy to do with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, it is better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.
The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.
The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.
It should also be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.
Tool
To work, you will need a standard set of tools for wood.
So, you will most likely need a set like this:
If you don't have an impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at the hardware store. Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for soundproofing.
You can use thick mats so as not to lay the cotton wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a grid or other basis that prevents the material from caking.
Conclusion
Assembling a wooden frame for plasterboard is a simple job that does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and intricacies of assembling the structure.