Proper insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside with your own hands. Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: thermal insulation of concrete, stone, brick structures Insulation of walls in a wooden bathhouse

The Russian bathhouse is still made of wood, but for changing log house came technologically more advanced designs:

log house made of rounded logs;
log house made of timber (glued or profiled).

If the thickness of the logs of a Russian bathhouse in the old days allowed for insulation only of the space between the crowns, then the less powerful body of a rounded log, and even more so, a beam requires complex work to insulate the structure, intended for use in any season of the year.

Bath must comply with the thermos principle- keep warm at any external temperature. In this regard, it is of great importance constructive solutions project: according to the method of connecting wooden elements when knitting crowns, according to the location of the steam room relative to the soap room and dressing room, the height and thickness of the windows, the size of the doorways, the height of the thresholds, the design of the “stove”.

But the system of measures for insulation of external walls, floors and ceilings cannot be belittled, technological features this process in different rooms baths.

Materials suitable for baths

Bathhouse is the place where everything structural elements constantly endure temperature changes and their contrasts. In conditions of moist heat, the evaporation of many synthetic substances and polymers is activated; tactile contact with heated building materials can result in burns.

These operational features determine the mandatory technical characteristics of materials used for insulating baths: thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, fire safety, natural components, environmental friendliness.

In order for the bathhouse to become a place for improving health, it is preferable to assemble a log house made from wood from Siberian forests(cedar, larch, pine) harvested in winter. For cladding premises, hardwoods are chosen that do not release resins and essential oils when heated.

Popular insulation materials have been popular since ancient times. organic and natural: clay, peat, expanded clay, flax fiber, moss, jute, tow.

New synthetic- non-flammable mineral insulation, magnesite boards, gypsum fiber, polystyrene foam, honeycomb.

Waterproofers often perform bitumen mastic, glass hydrosol, euroroofing felt (except for use in the steam room), polyethylene film with a density of 140 microns.

Optimal types vapor barriers for bath rooms are - kraft paper, aluminium foil, at the same time the insulation is foil-coated penotherm (NPP polypropylene laminated with foil).

Sequence of insulation work

The very first stage of insulation will begin during the assembly of the log house, when between its elements you will have to lay an organic fiber heat insulator: tow, jute, flax wool, dried moss or a combination thereof.

Only in six months is it possible complete this process using a hammer and caulk (a special spatula), carefully sealing the ends of the fibers into the seam. True, synthetic sealants have also appeared for this purpose, but for a bath it is especially important to observe environmental safety under conditions of heating and evaporation.

When laying a bathhouse, you can take measures to insulate the floors, especially if they are constructed of concrete. In this case, you will have to perform ground leveling work, pouring sand and expanded clay; pouring the base floor.
How to insulate the ceiling and walls of a bathhouse? Insulation is carried out from the inside and outside, but after the process of shrinkage of the structure has been completed.
Measures for insulating windows and doors, external and internal cladding work to preserve heat in the bathhouse premises.

Insulating a wooden bath from the inside

How to insulate a bathhouse made of logs? You should start with insulating the ceiling, it is he who takes on the first wave of heat and steam. The heat-insulating layer must be significant (in the steam room - up to 15 cm) with a mandatory vapor barrier membrane: for the steam room it is foil, for other rooms - kraft paper or thick polyethylene. It is also enough to cover the walls in the soap room and dressing room from the inside with clapboard or wooden blocks made of hardwood (aspen, linden).

Ceiling insulation algorithm:

Line the surface with clean roll paper and overlap it wooden ceiling(secure with tape and stapler);
we attach bars across the ceiling that exceed the thickness of the insulation used (preferably hard mats made of basalt wool or slag fiber); for dressing room and soap bar ceilings, expanded clay, sand and even sawdust mixed with clay can be used as insulation;
the mats are laid out in the crate;
the next layer is aluminum foil, the joints of which are taped;
the sheathing is attached to the foil as a basis for the front cladding;
if the ceiling of the bathhouse will be used as the floor of another room, then 3 cm of cement-sand screed under the wooden flooring is placed on top of the insulating layer.

Algorithm for insulating walls in a wooden bathhouse (for a steam room):

Algorithm for floor insulation using a basic screed:

First way:

on concrete surface bitumen mastic is applied;
after it dries, the floor is covered with thick plastic film;
Next comes laying ceramic tiles or installing heated floors.

Second way:

a layer of 15 cm is laid mineral wool;
covered with euroroofing felt extending to the level of the plinth;
logs are treated with an antiseptic;
subfloor is laid;
finished wooden floor made of tongue and groove boards.

The first method is more suitable for the utility rooms of the bathhouse, the second - for the steam room.

We insulate the bathhouse from the outside

Insulating does not only mean protecting from blowing. Insulate - provide conditions for maintaining a stable thermal regime indoors.

For log cabins or during the construction of baths in areas with mild winters, it is quite enough to perform external insulation of the walls to protect the bathhouse from heat leaks. Inside there is only finishing made from natural materials.

At the same time, it is possible to insulate the walls from the outside immediately after the shrinkage of the log house, based on the thickness of its elements and the density of the crowns.

The attic is subject to external insulation:

the ceiling is covered with glass hydrosol;
it is filled with expanded clay, slag, or mineral mats are laid over the insulator;
a reinforced or non-reinforced screed is made on top.

For external wall insulation ventilated facade technology is used:

a sheathing frame is created along the width of the sheets (mats, slabs) of insulation, exceeding the thickness of the sheets by 3 cm (for the ventilation gap);
the insulation is laid in the sheathing structure from bottom to top:
the diffuse membrane is attached to the sheathing with a stapler;
Facades are covered with varnished lumber, false beams or colored siding.

Requires special attention insulation of the base, where the cooling of the walls, especially in cold period, occurs especially intensively.

To do this, formwork is installed around the perimeter of the structure from boards up to half a meter high and 30 cm deep. The formwork cavity is lined with any waterproofing material and filled with soil or expanded clay. The top is covered with a board to prevent erosion by rainwater.

Additional insulation

Additional insulation windows are subject. To preserve heat, it is preferable to make them small and at the bottom of the wall. The most reliable are triple-glazed windows, provided they are tightly inserted into the wall openings, with the cracks sealed.

High thresholds and small door frames with a low ceiling will also help preserve heat in the room. The entrance from the dressing room to the soap room and steam room should not be located on the same axis.

The dressing room should have a door insulated with thick felt and vinyl covering. The insulation should be 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the door. It’s even better if the entrance to the dressing room is equipped with a closed vestibule.

The efforts and costs of insulating a bathhouse depend subsequently the cost of firewood to heat it, and, finally, its safety and durability.

Detailed instructions for insulating a bathhouse from the inside: insulating walls, floors and ceilings. To insulate a bathhouse with your own hands, you do not need to have special skills, you only need standard set tools and our instructions!

The vast majority of owners country houses They can’t imagine their area without a real Russian bathhouse or sauna. But in order for it to function properly, and really bring only strength and health to the owners, it is very important to insulate it well; methods of insulation are considered at the stage of drawing up the bathhouse design, but this can also be done with a completed building

To know how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you need to study the technology of this process and choose the right materials.

Materials for work

Before you start considering insulation technology, you need to figure out what materials need to be prepared for the job.

1. Thermal insulation material is the most important component in the process of insulating the walls, ceiling and floor of a bathhouse. Today there is a large number of insulation materials, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. Which ones are most adapted to high temperatures and humidity?

Rating of insulation for baths

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 82 / 100
#2			⭐ 86 / 100
#3			⭐ 88 / 100
#4			⭐ 92 / 100
#5			⭐ 98 / 100

Low price
Good thermal insulation
Light weight
Multifunctionality and wide scope of application
Durability
High resistance against fungi and various microorganisms
Easy to install

When burned, releases toxic substances
Selection harmful substances even at low temperatures
Creates a vapor barrier
Hygroscopicity
Afraid of the sun's rays
Whole until the mice get there
Not resistant to solvents
Low resistance to mechanical damage

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

It “sticks” perfectly to any materials – brick, glass, wood, concrete and metal.
It is distinguished by its extraordinary lightness and does not weigh down the surface.
The polyurethane foam coating does not respond to cold weather and warming throughout the year.
Unlike sheet and panel thermal insulation, this type of insulation is a single whole. There are no joints or seams through which cold air can enter the room.

Under influence ultraviolet radiation Rapid wear of the insulation may occur.
Polyurethane foams are low-flammability materials. However, where the surface becomes too hot or may catch fire, polyurethane foam should not be used.

High price of material and high cost of spraying services

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Low thermal conductivity, which makes it an excellent insulation material
Fire safety
Resistant to temperature changes.
Excellent vapor permeability, making the material “breathable”
Easy to install

When moisture is absorbed, the thermal insulation properties decrease and cold bridges form.
Large weight and volume, increased shipping costs

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

High frost resistance – withstands temperatures down to -70 °C without loss of properties.
High degree of fire resistance.
Safety for humans.
Durability - 45 years.

Low vapor permeability – 0.007-0.008 mg/m·h·Pa.
Flammability. Even despite its self-extinguishing properties, the material burns when in contact with fire.
Low sound insulation.
Blowability of seams.

Prices for XPS Boards

Low price
Acid resistance
Quickly absorbs moisture and does not lose its positive qualities

Long drying
Requires dust protection during installation

Prices for expanded clay

Getting to know characteristics leads to the conclusion that mineral wool for walls and wooden floor, and XPS slabs - for concrete. Expanded clay can be called universal material, which is perfect for any floor, but for walls it should be used for internal insulation it is forbidden.

If you buy it, it will be perfect for a bath material with a foil layer, which promotes long-term heat retention indoors using the principle of a thermos. For example, some characteristics of foil mineral wool insulation from the Izorok company are shown in the table:

	Izolight-L	Isolite	Isovent	Izokor-S	Isophor	Izoruf
Density, kg/m³	40	50	90	105	110	150
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, kPa, not less			20		25	50
Ultimate peel strength of layers, kPa, not less			4		4	12
Declared thermal conductivity coefficient, W/m×°K	0,035	0,034	0,034	0,036	0,034	0,036
Thermal conductivity coefficient under operating conditions, W/m×°K	0,043	0,038	0,039	0,041	0.040	0,042
Water absorption by volume, %, no more	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1
Humidity by mass, %, no more	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
Content of organic substances by weight, %, no more	2.5	2.5	4	4	4	4

Suitable for heat and sound insulation work on walls, ceilings and floors of bathhouses. But it is still recommended to arrange several layers of thermal insulation on the floors, the first of which should be expanded clay. The important thing is that rodents avoid it, which means that all other materials will be safe.

2. To fasten mineral wool mats or other foil insulation, and create a seamless sealed surface coating, you will need to purchase special foil tape.

3. The insulation is placed between the sheathing guides, which means it will require wooden blocks cross-section, which depends on the thickness of the insulation mats. If, as an example, we take the recommended insulation thickness of 100 mm, then the bars should have the same size on one side, or double lathing with perpendicular guides and a two-layer arrangement of mats will be used.

4. The bars are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors (depending on the type wall material), therefore it is necessary to purchase these elements of the required length, corresponding to both the size of the guides and the required penetration into the walls - for wood - 20 ÷ 25 mm, for solid walls - at least 40 mm.

5. If you choose insulation without a foil layer, then to cover it you will need a vapor barrier film.

6. If the floor in the bathhouse is filled with concrete screed, then in addition to insulation you will need:

— cement and sand or ready-made construction mixture;

- roofing material;

— reinforcing mesh;

— guides for beacons;

- polyethylene film ;

- damper tape.

The amount of materials will depend on the area of the floor, ceiling and walls of the insulated room.

Having prepared everything you need, you can move on to insulating the surfaces of bath rooms.

Insulation of bath floors

As you know, a bathhouse can be built of wood or brick, which is why not only a wooden one is installed, but also a concrete one. The latter is most often poured into brick bath, but sometimes they do it in wood. In any case, a concrete floor always requires enhanced insulation.

Thermal insulation of floors in any bathhouse should be given special attention, since they must withstand high humidity and temperature changes between the rooms and the ground. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a multi-layer “pie” of a wooden floor or a concrete device, it is recommended to cover the entire surface under the structure of the bathhouse with a medium fraction or slag.

The expanded clay layer will depend on the thickness of the walls of the building. It must be at least twice as thick as they are. It should be noted that if it is possible and space allows to make the expanded clay embankment thicker, then this will only increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If the bathhouse is built of brick and installed on concrete foundation, then it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay almost to the entire height of the foundation strip.

Floor covered with expanded clay “cushion”

Concrete floor

In order for the concrete floor of the bathhouse to be warm, you need to do a number of operations that are carried out after connecting the drain pipe (it must be raised in advance to the height of the future screed). The work consists of the following stages:

The soil is compacted well in the morning, and the walls are covered with a waterproofing compound.
Next, a layer of sand 80 ÷ 100 mm thick is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
Roofing felt is laid on top of the sand, extending onto the walls by 150 ÷ 200 mm. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 120 ÷ 150 mm; it is advisable to fasten them with waterproof tape or thermally glue them together using tar mastic.
Next, expanded clay is poured onto the roofing felt in such a way that the future floor screed is approximately 50 mm lower than the height of the foundation.

Next, expanded clay is distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. Additionally, XPS slabs 50 mm thick can be laid on it - they have sufficient rigidity and can easily withstand all loads; do not forget that before laying them, expanded clay should be covered with dense polyethylene.

A reinforcing mesh with cells from 50 to 100 mm is laid on the surface prepared in this way.
Beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing belt, along which it will be aligned.
If the sewer hole is located in the center of the insulated room, then the beacons are placed under small angle to it, so that when leveling the concrete, a slight slope will form on all sides of the room towards the drain.
Further, along the perimeter of the room on bottom part damper tape is glued or otherwise attached to the walls. This measure will preserve the screed from deformation during temperature changes, since compensates thermal expansion of the material.

Prepared concrete, mixed with sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, is laid on the reinforcing mesh and leveled using building regulations. It is advisable to introduce into the composition special plasticizers that are commercially available - this will improve the quality of the coating. Ready-made ones are often used for filling. building mixtures for screed with an already optimized composition for rooms with high humidity or for external works .
After the screed has hardened and gained strength, it is impregnated with a waterproofing compound () of deep penetration.

Once the soil has dried, ceramic tiles are laid. Another option is to install joists with wooden flooring on the concrete floor. Well-treated boards on it should be fixed at a distance of 20 ÷ 30 mm from each other.

Wooden floor

For wooden baths Wooden floors are traditional. To arrange them correctly, in addition to insulation operations, it is necessary to provide high-quality waterproofing. Don’t forget about floor ventilation - for this, special channels must be left in the foundation.

Work on installation and insulation of the floor is carried out in such a sequence:

First of all, it is brought to the bathhouse a drain pipe. The drain is usually located in the middle of the room, and all insulation materials and the ceiling are arranged around it.

Roofing material is laid on the compacted soil, which should rise to the walls by 150 ÷ 200 mm.
Expanded clay is laid on top of the waterproofing. The greater its thickness, the better, but between its surface and the floor beams there must be a ventilation distance of at least 200 ÷ 250 mm.
Next, on waterproofed Floor beams are laid in layers of roofing felt over the protruding part of the foundation. All wooden elements The floor must be treated in advance.

Skull blocks are nailed or screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which the subfloor boards will be mounted.

The subfloor is covered with a vapor-proof film, which covers both the floor beams and the boards laid between them.
Next, insulation is laid on the subfloor between the floor beams - it can be mineral wool or expanded clay.

The top of the insulating material is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film.

On top is another layer of water vapor barrier

The logs are fixed perpendicular to the floor beams, on which the wooden flooring is placed. A hole is made in the middle - the drain pipe will go into it.

On the style, slats are nailed, cut at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain - they will become a lathing for installing a waterproof wooden floor.
Insulation is placed between the sheathing bars with the foil layer facing up and secured together with foil tape. The thermal insulator must completely cover the sheathing bars.

A leak-proof, well-fitted, finished wooden flooring is laid on top at an angle.

Another insulation option for wooden and concrete floors

In addition to those presented above, there are also a very large number different options insulation of the bathhouse floor. Can you briefly talk about one more thing? possible way flooring using expanded polystyrene. The method is more labor-intensive, but is suitable for both concrete and wooden coverings.

1 - soil;

2- layer of sand;

3 - foam plastic boards;

4 - cement mortar with foam chips;

5 - waterproofing layer;

6 - cement mortar with vermiculite;

7 - concrete screed;

9 - boardwalk.

In this option, the space under the future floor will have to be deepened by 500 ÷ 600 mm, and the soil at its bottom will have to be compacted well.
Then, a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is poured onto the bottom, which is wetted and compacted with a hand tamper.
A dense waterproofing film is laid on top of this layer, which should completely cover the bottom and extend 200-300 mm onto the walls. It must be securely fastened to its walls.
Instead of expanded clay, which was used in the first versions, a layer of expanded polystyrene boards is laid on the film. Its total thickness must be at least 150 ÷ 200 mm.
Next, a screed made of cement mortar and foam chips in proportions of 2:1 is laid on the foam slabs. The thickness of this layer should be 50 ÷ 70 mm. This layer will not only insulate, but also strengthen the slab material laid below.
Then a layer of waterproofing is laid again - for it you can use dense plastic film or roofing felt. The canvases must be fastened together with waterproof tape.
The next layer in this “pie” is a layer of concrete with vermiculite, mixed in a 3:1 ratio. Its thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm. - This natural material, which has high thermal insulation properties. Insects and rodents never settle in it, it is not subject to rotting and decomposition. A vermiculite layer will significantly increase the thermal insulation of the floor.

This is what natural material looks like - vermiculite

The table shows the proportions cement-vermiculite solutions and their performance characteristics:

Characteristics of solutions with vermiculite
Cement (kg)	40	30	250	200	150	120	100
Vermiculite (liter)	130	130	130	130	130	130	130
Water (liter)	42.5	41	40	39.5	39	38.5	38
Volumetric weight (kg/m³) dry	60	50	43	39	34	31	29
Compressive strength (kg/cm²)	20	13	10	7	5	2	1
Dry thermal conductivity (W/m×°K)	0.13	0.11	0.1	0,092	0,083	0,075	0,07
Thermal conductivity at 5% humidity (W/m×°K)	0.17	0,145	0.13	0.12	0.105	0.09	0.08
Sound absorption coefficient at frequency 1000 Hz	0.37	0.51	0.54	0,56	0.6	0.64	0.73

The frozen screed is strengthened reinforcement mesh with cells up to 100 mm, and beacons for the upper concrete screed. The beacons are fixed to concrete or gypsum mortar, at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain.
Next, concrete is laid out on this structure, in the same proportions and combinations with modifying additives, as described above. The thickness of the screed near the drain should be at least 50mm.
After strengthening the screed, ceramic tiles are laid on it or removable wooden flooring wet floors.

Boards in this the floor is fixed at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other - this will not only allow water to quickly drain from the flooring, but also allow the wood to dry out. In addition, removable ones can be periodically placed outside for ventilation and drying, so you need to foresee their size in advance so that they can easily pass through the bathhouse door.

Insulation of bath walls

It is equally important, in addition to the floor, to reliably insulate the walls and ceiling of bath rooms. The walls and ceiling of a brick or wooden bathhouse are insulated according to the same principle; the only difference between them will be the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Since wood has a lower thermal conductivity than brick, the latter will require a thicker layer of insulation.

Special attention- insulation of bath walls

The process of wall insulation is carried out as follows:

The walls are treated with an antiseptic composition - it will protect them from the appearance and spread of mold and mildew.
Next, you need to attach a water vapor barrier film to the wall.
The sheathing is installed.
Insulation is placed between the sheathing guides.
Vapor barrier is attached.
The counter-lattice slats are nailed down - this will create the necessary ventilation gap.
The facing material is installed.

The sequence of work is general, but for walls made of different materials, has its own characteristics.

Brick walls

Sheathing bars are fixed to the brick wall in increments of 600 mm. The cross-sectional size of the timber must be equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. Usually for brick wall It is taken to insulate slag wool in mats 100 mm thick, which means that the thickness of the sheathing guides should be 100 mm.

Insulation is placed between the bars in the spacer. You can help fix it with a stretched zigzag nylon cord.
The next layer is a water vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the sheathing bars. Overlaps between the canvases (at least 150 mm) are glued with waterproof tape.
Next, counter battens are nailed to the bars.
Then foil insulation, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, is stretched over the entire surface and attached to the slats. The joints are sealed with foil tape.

On top, the entire “pie” is sheathed with wooden clapboard, which is secured to the same counter-lattice slats.

It should be noted that if foil insulation is used in the insulation process, then the additional layer of vapor barrier can be eliminated, since this type of insulation material perfectly retains steam.

Insulation of a log wall

1 - log wall;

2 - basalt insulation with foil surface;

3 - sheathing bars;

4 - lining;

5 - ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.

Walls log bathhouse themselves have low thermal conductivity and retain heat well indoors, provided that the joints of the logs at the corners and between each other are well sealed. Therefore, insulation is carried out as follows:

Basalt mineral wool with a foil layer is fixed to the wall, which should face the room. The thickness of the insulation is selected from 50 to 80 mm. It can be secured with special fasteners with wide caps - “fungi”, which are recessed into the insulation.
Wooden sheathing bars are nailed vertically or horizontally on top of the insulation.
Next, the wall is sheathed, having a thickness of 10 mm - it is attached to the sheathing bars.

Insulation of timber walls

A wall made of timber should be, just like a log wall, well insulated by itself, that is, all cracks and gaps are caulked with tow. It is easier to attach all the components of the insulation “pie” to it, since it has a flat surface into which fasteners can be easily screwed or hammered. Its insulation occurs in the following sequence:

A sheathing made of timber is attached to the wall, at a distance of guides from each other of 600 mm.
Next, insulation material is laid between the bars - it is better if it is mineral wool.
Then the entire structure is covered with rolled foil insulation, which is fixed to the sheathing bars, and the joints of the individual panels are glued together with foil tape.
Counter slats are nailed on top of the bars, which will create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
At the end of the process, the insulating “pie” is lined with clapboard.

It must be said that there are other options for laying insulation layers, but the ones given above are considered the most popular and frequently used, since they are completely uncomplicated and have long been tested in practice.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling can be mounted and insulated in three ways - you can choose any of them if it is suitable for the existing structure of the bathhouse.

Panel ceiling

This ceiling is mounted from panels, which already consist of everything necessary for vapor barrier, insulation and internal lining layers fixed on support bars. Mineral wool with a thickness of at least 100 mm is most often used as insulation in the panels.

The shields are mounted at the bottom and rise to the top in finished form. The peculiarity of such insulation is that insulation gaskets must also be laid between the finished panels - this process is carried out after the panels are fixed to the bathhouse ceiling.

Lifting the panels upward can be complicated by the fact that when assembled they have quite a lot of weight, so very often they are lifted in parts and assembled at a height.

false ceiling

A false ceiling is fundamentally different in its design from a panel ceiling, since its installation follows a different principle, somewhat similar to wall insulation.

The frame for such a ceiling is beams attic floor, laid in increments of 600 mm.
On the side of the attic, waterproofing is laid on the floor beams, which should cover the entire area of the ceiling.
A wooden flooring is fixed to the waterproofing, also from the attic side.
Insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Then the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier or foil material, which is fixed to the floor beams.
The last stage is covering the ceiling with wooden paneling.

There is another insulation option false ceiling, using other insulation materials, for example, expanded clay. In this case, almost all the work is done from the attic side, except for the finishing of the ceiling surface with clapboard.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling also differs from the two already mentioned in its design, in particular - in that it is laid directly on the walls of the room, that is, in principle it does not rest on the floor beams. For such a ceiling, boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used.

From the attic side, a vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the boards, which are covered with a waterproofing film and plywood or plank flooring.

The advantages of this design include speed and ease of installation, but this ceiling option can only be used with insulation small room baths, with distances between walls no more than 2.5 ÷ 2.7 m.

A detailed publication with a description of all the materials required for this and step-by-step instructions can be found on the pages of our portal by following the recommended link.

If the installation of thermal insulation and auxiliary materials is carried out correctly, the heat in the bath rooms will be retained for a very long time, which will help to significantly save on fuel.

In conclusion - a detailed video tutorial on insulating a bathhouse built using frame technology.

Video: insulation and finishing of a frame bath )

0 % ( 0 )

To see the results you need to vote

In order for the bathhouse to delight you with warmth, absence of drafts and dampness, it is necessary to properly insulate the walls, floor and ceiling. You also need to know which insulation is best used for external or internal work.

Basic requirements for material for bath insulation.

Moisture resistance.
Fire resistance.
High vapor barrier.
Rot resistant.
Resistant to deformation due to sudden changes in temperature.

Materials that can be used for interior and exterior work are divided into three types.

Insulation materials can also be divided by composition and filling.

When insulating a bathhouse, it is necessary to cover all planes of the room with insulation: floor, walls and ceiling. Only in this case there will be no heat leaks and water treatments will be as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

Insulating a bathhouse should start from the floor. As a rule, in rooms with high humidity it is practiced to install two types of floors: leaking and solid. Solid structures are complemented by a central drain, while leaking ones are equipped with a sheathing under which water flows into a drain mounted below the finished floor level.

The floor under the wooden sheathing, through which water escapes, resembles a multi-layered sandwich made of various materials. All materials for insulation must be installed sequentially.

Step 1

To install leaky floors with insulation, you need to dig a hole 60 cm deep. The dimensions of the hole must match the perimeter of the washing room or steam room.

Step 2

The bottom of the pit should be smooth and dry. You need to pour a sand cushion at the bottom and compact it thoroughly. Pillow height – 5-6 cm.

Step 3

Foam boards are laid on top of the sand. The material must be at least 20 cm wide. The joints of the plates must be carefully adjusted to each other, there should be no gaps left.

Step 4

A solution consisting of a mixture of cement and finely crushed foam plastic, 50-60 mm thick, is poured on top of the slabs. The solution must dry.

Step 5

Placed on top of the concrete screed waterproofing material, you can use regular roofing felt. The edges of the roofing felt should overlap the walls.

Step 6

It is poured onto roofing felt cement strainer, to which vermiculite is added 1 to 1. The thickness of the screed is 50 mm.

Step 7

Reinforcement. For these purposes, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the screed.

Step 8

A concrete screed is again poured over the mesh, to which fine crushed stone is added, the recommended layer thickness is 50 mm.

Step 9

Installation of posts to support a wooden floor.

Step 10

Flooring with technical gaps through which water will escape.

Important: installation of the drain pipe must be carried out before insulation begins. The last layer of screed should be poured at a slight slope towards the drain so that water does not accumulate on the concrete floor.

Insulation of solid floors in a bathhouse is carried out in the same way as in residential buildings.

It is best to install insulation when construction work. It is optimal to build a double floor structure: rough and finishing.

Insulation most suitable for technical specifications and price, for example, mineral wool is located between the finishing and rough layers of boards. It is recommended to lay a waterproofing material on top, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet.

It is important to know! It is best to place it in the washing room ceramic tiles resistant to high humidity.

Internal insulation of walls in bathhouses built from various materials

Brick baths are insulated during construction. You can use both bulk and material in the form of slabs. Bulk insulation, for example expanded clay, is filled with layers, between which it is poured mortar. Layer-by-layer filling reduces the thermal conductivity of walls by filling voids with mortar.

The insulation in the form of slabs is attached to the walls using special fittings. It is recommended to additionally install a vapor barrier on top of the slabs, protecting the insulation from moisture and high temperatures.

Panel and frame baths insulated using lightweight materials that do not create additional load on the frame. Polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, reed or fiberboard boards- these are the most the best insulation materials For frame structures. The material is attached to the walls; there should be no gaps between the plates. A vapor barrier layer must be installed on top of the insulation, which prevents the absorption of moisture by the slabs.

For insulation of walls and ceilings from natural wood The most successful option is glass wool mats or mineral slabs.

Also in particular demand are slabs with a one-sided layer of foil - Isover, Ursa - these materials perform two functions at once: they are a vapor barrier and insulation.

In regions with cold climates, it is practiced to use several types of insulation materials at once, which helps to minimize heat loss.

For internal insulation of a timber bath, the following materials and tools are required:

insulation in the form of plates;
vapor barrier film or isover;
construction tape;
beams with a section of 50 by 50 mm for a double frame;
lining for finishing walls;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
hammer.