Do-it-yourself bath insulation outside step-by-step instructions. Warming your favorite bath outside: warmth is above all

In order to keep the temperature in the bath for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it are as low as possible, the baths need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which prolongs the life of the building.

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for the construction. For baths made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this is usually a thorough filling of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness keeps heat well on its own. Sometimes they insulate the steam room and the washing room from the inside.

If a timber is used during construction, it is most likely necessary to insulate, but how it depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built of bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the required temperature regime, the wall thickness must be at least 80 cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. Therefore, such baths are always insulated.

Almost all the insulation of a log bath comes down to careful sealing of the cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but the wood dries out over time, cracks, new cracks form, which need to be caulked regularly.

A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you have chosen metal guides, they are attached to special suspensions.

Insulation outside of a log bath is almost never used, and inside, only sometimes a steam room and a washing room are additionally insulated. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a steam or hydro barrier is laid on top of it. It is fastened with strips, on which the finish is subsequently attached.

Thermal insulation of a bath from a bar outside

Thermal insulation of a bath from a bar outside is absolutely no different from the insulation of a bath from a log. The building must also be defended; cracks also appear in it, which are repaired in the same way.

The need for insulation outside depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climatic zone, insulation will be required according to the following scheme:

lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to set them both horizontally and vertically);
heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, wall thickness, and the type of insulation);
moisture and wind protection;
counter lathing (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and the finishing materials);
Decoration Materials.

A bath from a bar is usually sheathed outside: clapboard of any type, edged board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After the completion of the work, the wood trim is coated with varnishes for outdoor use, sometimes it is pretreated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If siding is used as a finishing finish, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finish is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as a lathing, which can be bought in the same place as siding. The guides are attached to special hangers.

Insulation of a brick bath outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bath from the outside - this material has a high thermal conductivity, so it will be extremely difficult to warm up the room to the required conditions without external insulation. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

For outdoor insulation, it is usually advised to use mineral wool. they, according to recent studies, are not suitable - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation they are one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bath from the outside with expanded polystyrene plates, polystyrene (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its disadvantage is its high price). For high-quality performance of work, it is advised to lay two layers apart (offset by half the length) to reduce heat loss due to overlapping seams. But this method takes more time, and it takes twice as much materials for insulation. Therefore, most often the insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are glued with reinforced tape.

For cladding a brick bath outside, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior decoration: you can decorate the bath with plaster from the outside. This is possible if polystyrene plates, foam glass or polystyrene foam were used as insulation. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

You can insulate a brick bath like a ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation plates are tightly installed.

For reliability, they can be strengthened with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold firmly enough (therefore, the step of fastening the guides is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held due to the elastic force). The joints of the slabs are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, laid on top of a waterproofing film, and secured with strips. Now, guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for the installation of outdoor trim. According to this scheme, you can also insulate baths from foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of the bath from blocks

Any of the insulation schemes described above can be applied to block baths. In addition, there is another option: to overlay such a bath with decorative bricks, but this option for finishing and insulation is possible if the temperature in the bath is maintained at a positive temperature all the time.

If you decide to overlay a bathhouse of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not close, but retreating 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the building's thermal insulation performance will be much improved. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with heat-insulating material: expanded clay, specially treated sawdust, etc.

In order to prevent moisture from accumulating in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are left in the outer wall, and for reliable fixation of the finishing wall, small pieces of fastening fittings are driven into the carrier.

Recently, such a finishing material as a block house, which emulates a log wall, has become more and more popular. The block house is made of different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. sheathed in a block house, it looks like it was made of wood.

Block bath sheathed with block house

conclusions

A log bathhouse built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional insulation of the walls, either outside or inside.

When choosing an outdoor insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without harm to health, you can use mineral wool made with phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene will also work.

If financial resources are available, the bathhouse can be sheathed with a metal block-house, which will serve for many years.

When building a bath (it does not matter - brick, wood, from expanded clay concrete blocks or any other material), you need to worry not only about the construction of a solid and reliable structure. An equally important issue is thermal insulation - protecting the building from heat loss. performed quite simply but according to certain rules.

This is a crucial nuance for any building, however, for a bath, due to the need to maintain a high temperature, it is most relevant.

It doesn't matter what kind of building you have - a small "box" of blocks covered with corrugated board, or a whole house with lounges - you need to carry out work on both sides: both inside and outside the building.

1 On the importance and necessity of thermal insulation

The atmosphere in the steam room can be summed up in two words: hot and humid. To be precise, the temperature in the bath (we will consider the traditional Russian as an example) reaches about +80 degrees (or even higher - up to +90), and the humidity is about 70%.

It goes without saying that such conditions are not easy to maintain, and it depends not only on the power of the stove. You can install even the most expensive unit, but if the bath has not been properly insulated, there will not be too much sense from it.

The necessary conditions simply cannot be created, and if it does, it will be very difficult to maintain them: the heated air will easily go outside. To summarize the above, you can form the following list of disadvantages of the lack of insulation:

an increase in heating costs (it does not matter what exactly the stove works on - much more fuel will be required, which means that you will have to pay more);
acceleration of equipment wear (due to the fact that the furnace will have to be loaded more);
slow heating of the steam room.

In addition, one should not forget about the negative impact of moisture and cold on the building itself. Regardless of what it is - brick or from expanded clay concrete blocks - in any case, the building will deteriorate.

This is due to the fact that in winter (or generally at sub-zero temperatures) moisture entering the micropores, as well as cracks, joints and holes freezes, while increasing in volume. It cannot be ignored.

And since there can be more than one hundred (!) Such freeze-thaw cycles per season, then in just a few years the surface of the walls will be covered with a network of cracks, and the process will accelerate over the years.

Add here also the sharp temperature drop that occurs during the heating of the steam room: for example, it is -30 on the street, and the temperature of the walls quickly, literally in an hour (depending on what your bathhouse is made of and how powerful the stove is), will rise to +70 and above. It goes without saying that a difference of about a hundred degrees will also not be useful for construction.

1.1 Why insulate outside?

When insulating a bath with your own hands, many often believe that the first step is to isolate the steam room from the inside. This is really so - after all, it is in this room that you need to maintain the desired temperature. can serve as an excellent material in this case.

However, the use of only internal insulation shifts the dew point - it is just between the insulation and the surface of the walls. As a result, moisture begins to accumulate, and the building itself, again, remains unprotected.

So, in addition to internal work, do not forget that the insulation of the bath outside is an equally important and urgent issue. In addition, additional thermal insulation will not be superfluous - using another layer of insulation outside the walls will further improve the microclimate inside the steam room.

2 How to insulate?

To isolate the bath from the inside, you can use not any insulation - materials that are afraid of moisture are not recommended. And if applied, then with serious and properly used waterproofing.

Outside, things are better - there is no effect of such an amount of moisture, which means that the choice of materials that can be used increases. For walls (it does not matter which one your bathhouse is - brick, or made of expanded clay concrete blocks), it is most relevant to use any insulation from the list below:

Minwatoy.
Styrofoam / expanded polystyrene.

The first two materials can be used with your own hands: such insulators do not require special knowledge and experience. The third insulation will already require the services of specialists. Let's take a closer look at each of the mentioned insulators and figure out exactly how to use them with our own hands for wall insulation.

2.1 The use of mineral wool (video)

2.2 Insulation with mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool insulation has been used for several decades, and judging by the fact that the number of products on this basis continues to grow, there is still a demand for it. An alternative to mineral wool is this.

Despite the fact that now there are many other insulators, better, more reliable and easier to use, such materials are still relevant.

Mineral wool is usually sold in rolls or in slabs. For walls, of course, the second option is more convenient - rolls are best used for horizontal surfaces. In addition, it can be used for

The thermal conductivity of products is not the best: this indicator is in the region of 0.04 W / mK (depending on the type and brand). However, since the insulation will be attached from the outside, this is not a significant drawback - it can simply be used in a thick layer. But some of the properties of mineral wool make it not the most successful material:

poor resistance to moisture - under the influence of moisture, the material crumples, cakes;
increased complexity of work (compared to foam);
the need to use protective equipment for the skin and face.

Of the tangible advantages (besides the relative cheapness), one can single out the fact that the mineral wool can be mounted even on an uneven wall surface that has protrusions and height differences.

The process itself, if you do it yourself, looks like this (the list of stages is the same for both a brick bath and for building from expanded clay concrete blocks):

The surface of the walls is checked - there should be no cracks, chips or holes on them. If there are any, they should be covered with plaster.
Installation of wooden lathing is in progress.
A vapor barrier film is glued to the wall (you can skip this point).
Insulation is placed between the crate.
A waterproofing film is stretched over the lathing (with mineral wool insulation - this is a mandatory nuance).
The cladding material is being installed.

2.3 Application of foam (video)

2.4 Insulation with foam or expanded polystyrene

Insulators from the category of gas-filled plastics have also been known for a long time. The brightest and most popular representative is ordinary foam. This insulation is extremely easy to use - we can easily install the blocks with our own hands, even if before that you did not know exactly how to do it.

It is not surprising that this particular material is widely and universally used to insulate various parts of buildings, including how.

Its higher quality and efficient "brother" is extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation has better thermal conductivity (about 0.03-0.035 versus 0.04 for foam) and is completely resistant to moisture. By the way, it can be produced with his participation.

The materials themselves are similar in appearance, are lightweight (which, again, simplifies do-it-yourself work) and are absolutely identical in terms of application. By the way, as for the work itself, such a heater does not require any precautions (like mineral wool).

However, for stacking blocks, it is required to have a perfectly flat surface, which somewhat complicates the process. The very sequence of actions with your own hands is as follows (the same for a brick building, and for a structure made of expanded clay concrete blocks):

The surface of the walls is checked - there should be no cracks, chips or holes on them. If there are any, they should be covered with plaster, then applied.
The surface of the walls is primed at least 1 time.
Starting from the bottom corner (any) and moving sideways, the foam / EPS is glued to the surface with a special adhesive solution (sold in the same place as the insulation itself).
Each of the blocks is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws (about 5 pieces per sheet).
The joints between the sheets are glued with tape, or foamed. Alternatively, they can simply be covered with plaster.
Over the insulation, a waterproofing film is stretched onto the crate.
Installation of the facing layer and further finishing are in progress.

2.5 Application of PPU (video)

2.6 Insulation with sprayed PU foam

A relatively new technology of insulation is polyurethane foam spraying. This insulator belongs to liquid - it is obtained by mixing two components. Cooking is carried out directly at the work site, in a special installation.

The capacity of such units is equipped with a stirrer - to maintain the desired consistency of the solution. Better and more expensive models are also equipped with heating (necessary for the same purposes).

You can stop at this material. The insulation itself can be safely called ideal: it is lightweight, is not afraid of moisture or any other negative factors (rodents, mold), has a minimum thermal conductivity (in the region of 0.025 W / mK).

In addition, the surface of expanded clay concrete (or any other) walls does not require leveling, and the resulting insulation layer is monolithic and has no seams or joints.

Its most important disadvantage is the impossibility of using it yourself: the aforementioned special installation is expensive. And the spraying service itself is also expensive.

For acquaintance, here is the sequence of actions when using this technology:

The surface is checked for cracks, chips. If available, they are covered with plaster.
PPU is being prepared.
The lathing is mounted on the wall.
PPU is sprayed onto the surface.
On top of the insulation, along the crate, the cladding is being installed and further finishing.

Features of the technology of external warming of the bath
Thermal insulation of a wooden bath outside
How to insulate a brick bath outside?
Features of warming a frame bath outside
Features and technology of warming the basement of the bath
Features of warming the walls of the bath from the inside

Are you planning to build your own bathhouse or is construction in full swing? Maybe you are already a happy owner of a steam room, but you feel that you urgently need to improve or redo something?

Bath insulation consists of several layers: lathing of the main walls, two or more layers of insulation, waterproofing, lathing and decorative trim.

Keep in mind that effective and correct insulation of the bath from the outside and from the inside is the key to high-quality heating of the steam room, retention of heat and economical fuel consumption. The features of the thermal insulation of the baths directly depend on the material that was used for the construction of the building, be it wood, brick, sandwich panels or, for example, a cinder block. Depending on this, it is necessary to select the appropriate insulation.

Features of the technology of external warming of the bath

Wall insulation scheme outside.

The main task that the insulation of the walls and foundations of the bathhouse should be effectively solved from outside is the isolation of building structures from direct contact with cold outside air, prevention of drafts inside the premises and protection of the bathhouse from atmospheric precipitation, which negatively affects the quality and durability of building materials.

The method according to which the basement and walls of the bath are insulated from the outside depends, as already mentioned, on what material was used in the construction as the main one: foam blocks, sandwich panels, wood or brick. Regardless of what kind of bath you are going to insulate, prepare the following materials and tools:

hammer;
hacksaw;
roulette;
construction stapler;
painting knife;
rail for lathing;
insulation;
vapor barrier film with aluminum coating;
thermal film or ordinary polyethylene;
self-adhesive foil tape;
nails;
boards.

Thermal insulation of a wooden bath outside

To insulate a wooden bath outside, as a rule, a mezhventsovy insulation is used. In most cases, this is jute.

The scheme of the ceiling device in the bath.

Excellent interaction with moisture, low thermal conductivity - these are the main advantages of this material. And if you add special materials containing flax fibers to the bundle, then elasticity, elasticity and strength will be added to its positive characteristics.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bathhouse from the outside using jute, flax fiber or flax wool is carried out using the following technology:

the mezhventsovy insulation is laid;
joints are processed;
jute fiber is stuffed with a seal. Caulking is necessary from the very bottom and gradually move along the perimeter. Otherwise, the frame may be skewed;
caulked seams are treated with a sealant.

How to insulate a brick bath outside?

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

The high thermal conductivity of this material requires an additional thermal insulation device. Otherwise, you will need to either build thick enough walls or spend more money on energy.

Insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the outside involves the use of ventilated facade technology. After the outside insulation has been completed, the wall will be a kind of cake, consisting of brick, insulation, waterproofing layer and external decoration.

If you plan to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the outside, pay attention to mineral wool. She is best suited for this kind of work.

The very insulation of the walls of a brick bath from the outside involves the following technology:

the corner brackets are being strengthened to the wall;
insulation is inserted between the corners of the mats;
the joints between the mats are glued with tape or a special adhesive solution;
the walls are covered with a waterproofing layer;
on the corners, special guides are installed to additionally hold the heat-insulating material.

If you are going to insulate the walls of a brick bath from the outside, you can also use expanded polystyrene for this, however, it is not suitable for insulation from the inside, as it is toxic and unstable to high temperatures.

Features of warming a frame bath outside

If you need to insulate the walls of a frame bath, then it is best to use foam for this. In this case, the lightness of this material plays a decisive role. Although there are other advantages, for example, hydro-repellent properties and low thermal conductivity.

It is possible to insulate a frame bath from the outside with the help of foam plates, even if you do not have the skills to work with this material. Insulation just needs to be glued to the wall or fixed with self-tapping screws, and plaster or decorative facade cladding should be applied on top. The lack of foam is in its fragility, which is why you need to be especially careful when working with this material.

Features and technology of warming the basement of the bath

Insulation of the bath from the inside must be started from the floors. However, before that, it is imperative to carry out the insulation of the foundation. If this is not done, then no matter how insulated and reliable the floors of your bath are, cold air will still penetrate inside.

If we consider the foundation from the point of view of possible heat loss, then it can be divided into 2 zones: the underground part and the basement. Accordingly, the warming of the basement of the steam room can be done in 2 ways. The underground part is insulated with a layer of expanded clay, the height of which should be approximately 2 times greater than the thickness of the walls. Then the plinth from the outside is sheathed with mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam.

Technologically, insulation of the foundation is not particularly difficult. It is acceptable to use 1 of 2 possible options. Warming of the foundation is carried out up to the level of soil freezing. This parameter is determined separately for each region. When installing heat-insulating material to a great depth, the effectiveness of the use of insulation is significantly reduced. In the corner zones, the thermal insulation layer must be increased by 1.4-1.6 times.

If the foundation is insulated using extruded polystyrene foam, there is no need for additional laying of a protective coating for the waterproofing layer, which would protect it from mechanical damage.

In the process of preparing for pouring the foundation, the trench and the formwork for pouring the foundation are made wider than the calculated dimensions by the thickness of the sheet, and better even 2 sheets of polystyrene insulation. Insulation is attached to the surface of the foundation after removing the formwork. The part of the foundation that rises above the ground can be finished with decorative stone or tiles directly over the thermal insulation material. This completes the warming of the basement of the bath.

Features of warming the walls of the bath from the inside

Thermal insulation scheme with paroizol.

It is imperative to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside. Insulation is carried out depending on what material the walls are made of.

The panel walls of the bath suggest that the thermal insulation material is located between the vapor and waterproofing layers. The main requirement for the material with which the insulation of the panel walls of the bath will be carried out from the inside is its lightness. The most commonly used mineral wool, reed slabs or expanded polystyrene. Panel walls are sheathed with plastic from the inside; cheaper options are also possible, for example, fiberboard or waterproof plywood.

When choosing a heat-insulating material, with the help of which the frame walls of the bath will be insulated from the inside, it is necessary to take into account the climatic characteristics of your region. So, in very cold climatic zones, reed or fiberboard plates have proven themselves remarkably.

Only 10 cm of the frame wall of a bath with reed insulation corresponds to 50 cm of solid brickwork in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics. In warmer regions, it is recommended to use sawdust, cement, shavings, gypsum for insulation from the inside. Sawdust mixed with lime or gypsum in a ratio of 10: 1 is covered with a 20 cm layer in the space between the inner and outer wall cladding.

In addition to insulation from the inside, the frame wall needs a vapor barrier device. A plastic film, glassine or roofing felt is placed between the boarding and the thermal insulation layer.

The process of wall insulation from the inside using fiber insulation is carried out as follows:

A special mounting frame is installed. The frame is made of 50x50 beams, which are vertically nailed to the inner walls of the steam room with an interval of 55 cm.

Insulation is installed, after which the joints between the insulation and the frame are sealed with construction tape. Next, the installation of foil insulation is carried out, and the lining is stuffed onto the frame.

The insulation of the walls of the bath from a bar from the inside is carried out using insulation of different thicknesses. So, if a layer of 10 cm is needed for the outer wall, then 5 cm is enough for the inner one.

A prerequisite is the creation of an air gap 3-5 cm thick between the insulating layer and the wall. It is recommended to install fiber insulation in a double layer. The inner layer does not imply the presence of foil.

Bath insulation outside and inside: features and technologies

Thermal insulation of a bath outside and inside is a very important stage in the construction and operation of a bath. Competent insulation will make the bath as comfortable and warm as possible.

Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside and outside

The main advantage of a good bath is that its steam room should warm up well and keep it warm for a long time. Therefore, unlike most residential buildings, it is advisable to insulate the bathhouse both outside and inside. A bathhouse built of any material needs to be insulated: stone (made of bricks or aerated concrete blocks), made of wood or built on the basis of sandwich panels.

Bath insulation materials

Despite the fact that the bath is a rather specific structure and / or room, it is insulated with the same materials that are used for thermal insulation of any other buildings and premises. However, with regard to the bath, there are some restrictions and features of the use of certain heaters. This is explained by the special temperature regime in which it is operated.

So, for the internal insulation of baths, as a rule, mineral insulation (basalt fiber, mineral and glass wool) is used. They are durable; moisture and fire resistant; do not rot and are not damaged by pests. They are sold both in the form of mats and in rolls.

Inexpensive organic fibrous insulation materials from peat, reeds, wood waste and insulation based on foamed plastic (polystyrene, EPS) have good thermal insulation properties. However, many fibrous organic insulation is susceptible to decay and is afraid of fire, and polystyrene and expanded polystyrene release hazardous chemicals when they burn. Therefore, it is advisable to use them only for internal thermal insulation of utility rooms (dressing room, locker room, rest room) and for external insulation.

Plates of organic insulation must be treated with antiseptic compounds before use. For example, reeds are impregnated with a 3% composition of ferrous sulfate. For external wall insulation, it is advisable to overlay mats made of organic insulation on both sides with asbestos-cement slabs in order to protect them from fire.

External insulation

How to insulate a bathhouse depends on what material it is built from. Thermal insulation of frame, stone, wooden buildings, detached and attached baths is carried out in different ways. Frame baths made of sandwich panels are insulated in a special way - these structures cannot be insulated with heavy materials.

Stone bath (brick, from foam blocks, cinder blocks, aerated concrete blocks). In such a bath, the easiest way to keep warm is by using the ventilated facade technology: a frame is attached to its outer walls, into which mineral wool slabs are inserted. The same frame serves as the basis for facing materials - siding, lining, etc. You can insulate a stone bath from the outside with foam or EPS boards, and then plaster or veneer in another way.
Wooden bathhouse (log or timber). Wooden buildings shrink over time, and gaps appear between the crowns. In this case, jute materials are usually used for thermal insulation - flax-jute felt; flax - or the so-called "building" red moss. Unlike other organic insulation materials, this natural insulation does not rot, and does not flare up when lit, but smolders. The insulation is inserted between the crowns when erecting a log house from a log or bar. The second time the blockhouse is processed when it is completely folded: jute material or moss is driven tightly into the joints between the beams or logs, sealing it with a special tool - caulker - and a hammer. They begin to caulk the blockhouse around the perimeter, starting from the lower crown, so that it does not warp. A sealant is applied over the caulked seams.
The thermal insulation of the bath, assembled using frame technology, has some features. The walls of the frame can be filled with an arbolite mass (a mixture of sawdust, gypsum and lime, impregnated with a solution of ferrous sulfate) or laid inside it with an average thickness of a pole, sealing the gaps with red moss, clay with sawdust, etc. Externally, frame structures are insulated with foam or expanded polystyrene plates. To increase the fire resistance of the building, the insulation can be protected on one or both sides with thin asbestos plates.

General scheme of internal insulation of a sauna building

Internal thermal insulation

The floor in the bath is insulated in the same way as in any other room, the only difference is in the "reinforced" waterproofing. The best floor covering for the floor in brick and block baths is tile: it warms up quickly and does not cool down for a long time. The peculiarities of the thermal insulation of a wooden bath floor are that it is not recommended to impregnate boards for equipment of a rough, and even more so, a finishing coating with an antiseptic and other protective chemical compounds.
Walls. In auxiliary rooms (recreation room, dressing room, dressing room), walls can be insulated in any way suitable for internal wall insulation. However, in the steam room, given its special temperature regime, frame insulation using mineral wool is recommended. The thickness of the insulation mats in a stone bath should be twice as large as when insulating similar walls in any other room in a brick and stone building. In a bath made of thick timber, the thickness of the insulation layer can be small. On top of the insulation, the walls are sheathed with wooden clapboard. Wooden siding is also made in brick baths - to keep the heat longer - and in wooden baths. When heated, the wooden wall covering smells good, creating a unique coziness in the room. When heated, coniferous boards emit resin, so it is preferable to sheathe the walls with clapboard made of hardwood - alder, linden, aspen.
Ceiling. In wooden and frame baths, the ceiling is insulated in the same way as the walls, by putting insulating mats into a wooden frame. It is better to do this immediately when building a bath. In stone baths and cinder block baths, it is better to insulate the ceiling from the outside (from the side of the roof) using mineral, basalt wool or glass wool. Do not forget that the chimney outlet must be coated with fire-resistant mastic or protected with non-combustible asbestos materials.

Internal ceiling insulation

Insulation of doors

Competent thermal insulation of the bath is impossible without the installation of "warm" doors: if after the steam room you go into the dressing room, in which drafts are walking on the floor, it will not take long to catch a cold. To reduce heat loss, sauna doors are made narrow and high and "fit" them as tightly as possible to the door frame. Additional insulation will be provided by a double-layer door.

It consists of two wooden or steel sheets connected by beams so that a mineral wool or other non-combustible sealant can be inserted between them. It is easy to make a wooden double door yourself. From the outside, it can be additionally sheathed with thick foam rubber or mineral wool, and overheated with leatherette on top of the insulation.

How to insulate a bath from the inside and outside

To insulate a bath from the inside and outside, the same materials are used as for the thermal insulation of other rooms and buildings. However, the thermal insulation of the bath has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when insulating it.

Thermal insulation of a bath from the inside: thermal insulation of concrete, stone, brick structures

How to insulate a bath from the inside? What insulation should you prefer and how to apply it? How to decorate the floor and walls of the steam room and dressing room? Let's try to figure it out.

Any insulated facade will only spoil the appearance of a log house. Let's better figure out how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside.

To understand how and with what to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, let's first have a good idea of the conditions in which the materials will find themselves.

High humidity in both the steam room and the washing section (if, of course, it is a separate room). In the dressing room, the air will also hardly be dry. The conclusions are obvious: either the insulation should not be hygroscopic, or it should be protected by reliable vapor and waterproofing.
The temperature in the steam room can reach 100 degrees or more. Polyfoam and extruded polystyrene with such strong heating are guaranteed to release substances into the atmosphere that will definitely not add to your health.

Please note: for the same reason, linoleum or plastic panels are never included in the number of finishing materials for the steam room. Wall panels, in addition to emitting harmful substances, are quite capable of deforming already at 80 - 90 degrees.

A significant part of the heat at high temperatures is lost not only due to convection, but also in the form of infrared radiation. What does this mean? The fact that our scheme for insulating a bath from the inside should include a reflective layer - foil or material with a foil surface.

Foil insulation reflects 90% of thermal radiation.

The insulation of the walls of the bathhouse from the inside is influenced, of course, by the material of these walls. What options are possible?

Concrete, stone, brick

Warming in this case is required. And not only for reasons of heat preservation: constantly weeping walls with temperature fluctuations in a wide range will quickly collapse.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the thickness of the walls and the climatic zone. In general, a ten centimeter layer is recommended.

How to insulate a wooden bath from the inside? And is it necessary in principle?

The situation is controversial. On the one hand, the insulation will definitely not get worse; on the other hand, a log or a bar in itself is not the worst material for the walls of the steam room and dressing room.

Thicker walls either do not get off the inside at all, or are protected by waterproofing and clapboard. The lathing is needed only if the walls have noticeable blockages.

Typically, horizontal strips of vapor-waterproofing material are sewn with a stapler with a five-centimeter overlap. The bottom canvases are sewn first: the overlap should prevent water from flowing under the material.

Attention: do not forget about the high temperature and do not use polyethylene as a vapor barrier.

Modern vapor barrier materials are able to withstand the temperature of the steam room without negative consequences.

So, how to insulate the bath from the inside?

The optimal insulation is basalt wool. Rigid mats are used; as already mentioned, in the vast majority of cases, a thickness of 10 centimeters can be recommended. For the ceiling, it makes sense to increase the layer thickness to 15-20 centimeters: most of the heat in the steam room is lost precisely through the roof and ceiling.

What else is required?

Lathing. The most durable option for a stone or brick bath is a frame made of a drywall profile. The CD ceiling profile is usually used; the perimeter of each wall is edged with a UD guide profile. Straight hangers are attached every 0.6 - 0.8 meters; the step between the profiles is made by a centimeter - two less than the width of the insulation plate.

But in a wooden bath you can save money: the price of a running meter of a bar is slightly lower than that of a profile; in this case, the durability of the solution will still be limited by the material of the walls themselves.

Waterproofing with foil. We need not only water and steam impermeable, but also heat resistant material. Fortunately, the modern market can offer many solutions of the type we need: for example, foamed expanded polypropylene Penotherm NPP LF is designed for temperatures up to +150 degrees.

It will not only protect the walls from dampness and reflect radiant heat, but, like any foam material, will further reduce heat loss. According to the manufacturer's assurances, the 3 mm Penotherm layer provides the same degree of thermal insulation as the 150 mm timber.

Useful: for a bath made of logs or a bar of small thickness, this material can also serve as the main insulation.

The insulation inside the bath will be hidden by a layer of finishing. Traditionally, a linden or aspen lining is used for it. These types of wood do not burn even at high temperatures, are resistant to decay and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Linden lining, unlike most types of wood, does not darken over time.

Floor, doors and windows

When it comes to how to insulate a bath from the inside with your own hands, it usually means an increase in the thermal resistance of the ceiling and walls. However, drafts and cold floors can also take away a lot of heat (see also article

How are these problems solved?

Insulation of the floor on the loggia: the choice of materials and the order of work).

How are these problems solved?

Along the perimeter of the door to the steam room, it is enough to make a frame of thick felt. It will reliably close the cracks through which it can see through.
It is enough to insulate the frames of wooden windows in the steam room, washing compartment and dressing room with cotton wool. Thermal insulation of plastic windows comes down to gluing with foam rubber self-adhesive strips: plastic is not placed in the steam room with its high temperatures, and in other rooms there is no need to fear thermal decomposition of polymers.
How and with what to insulate the floor? The instruction depends on its type:

The surface of the leaking wooden floor is covered with expanded clay. Boards are laid on carefully leveled backfill.
Installation of a concrete leaking floor begins with digging a half-meter pit.

Then the following layers are located from bottom to top: 5 centimeters of sand; 20 centimeters of styrofoam; 5 centimeters of concrete with foam crumbs in a 1: 1 ratio; waterproofing (for a relatively cool floor, you can use polyethylene or even roofing material); 5 centimeters of concrete with vermiculite (a natural mineral with low thermal conductivity) in a 1: 1 ratio; reinforced 5 cm screed.

The slope for water drainage is done when pouring the screed; a boardwalk is laid on top of the logs.

Insulation of the floor on the loggia: the choice of materials and the order of work).

How are these problems solved?

Along the perimeter of the door to the steam room, it is enough to make a frame of thick felt. It will reliably close the cracks through which it can see through.
It is enough to insulate the frames of wooden windows in the steam room, washing compartment and dressing room with cotton wool. Thermal insulation of plastic windows comes down to gluing with foam rubber self-adhesive strips: plastic is not placed in the steam room with its high temperatures, and in other rooms there is no need to fear thermal decomposition of polymers.
How and with what to insulate the floor? The instruction depends on its type:

The surface of the leaking wooden floor is covered with expanded clay. Boards are laid on carefully leveled backfill.
Installation of a concrete leaking floor begins with digging a half-meter pit.

The slope for water drainage is done when pouring the screed; a boardwalk is laid on top of the logs.

How are these problems solved?

Along the perimeter of the door to the steam room, it is enough to make a frame of thick felt. It will reliably close the cracks through which it can see through.
It is enough to insulate the frames of wooden windows in the steam room, washing compartment and dressing room with cotton wool. Thermal insulation of plastic windows comes down to gluing with foam rubber self-adhesive strips: plastic is not placed in the steam room with its high temperatures, and in other rooms there is no need to fear thermal decomposition of polymers.
How and with what to insulate the floor? The instruction depends on its type:

The surface of the leaking wooden floor is covered with expanded clay. Boards are laid on carefully leveled backfill.
Installation of a concrete leaking floor begins with digging a half-meter pit.

The slope for water drainage is done when pouring the screed; a boardwalk is laid on top of the logs.

Useful: the temperature on the floor is lower, and the tiles in the steam room usually do not warm up to an uncomfortable temperature. However, it is better to provide for some kind of wooden footrests: it will be much more pleasant to steam.

Walls and ceiling

How to insulate the bath inside - we found out. What is the sequence of operations? Are there any subtleties in the work ahead of us?

In general, no. We insulate the bathhouse from the inside in the same way as any other room (Read also the article

Insulation

How and how to insulate the loggia from the inside). We will only have to pay increased attention to the reliability of the vapor barrier.

The distance from its surface to the rough wall or ceiling should be slightly more than the thickness of the insulation. In the case of using galvanized profiles, this distance is regulated by hangers; the bar is nailed through the lining (for example, segments of the same bar). You can, of course, use galvanized hangers for wooden lathing.

In case you have never worked with drywall, we will tell you about the sequence of installation of the profile.

Along the perimeter of the wall or ceiling, the UD guide profile is attached in increments of no more than 60 centimeters. It can be attached to logs or timber with self-tapping screws; for a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked (the distance between them, we recall, should allow the insulation plates to stand without undercutting). Then, along the axes with a step of 0.6 - 0.8 meters, suspensions are attached to the wall.
The CD profiles are installed and fixed to the hangers with metal screws 0.9 cm long. The free edges of the suspensions are bent.

Insulation

Basalt wool slabs are inserted between profiles or bars. Actually, the insulation of a loggia or a ventilated facade is carried out in the same way: you have probably seen the installation procedure from the side more than once.

A few tips are worth giving, however.

When asked how to insulate a bath from the inside, any occupational safety engineer will give an unambiguous answer: wearing glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. The fibers of the insulation are volatile and irritate the mucous membranes.

How and how to insulate the loggia from the inside). We will only have to pay increased attention to the reliability of the vapor barrier.

In case you have never worked with drywall, we will tell you about the sequence of installation of the profile.

Along the perimeter of the wall or ceiling, the UD guide profile is attached in increments of no more than 60 centimeters. It can be attached to logs or timber with self-tapping screws; for a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked (the distance between them, we recall, should allow the insulation plates to stand without undercutting). Then, along the axes with a step of 0.6 - 0.8 meters, suspensions are attached to the wall.
The CD profiles are installed and fixed to the hangers with metal screws 0.9 cm long. The free edges of the suspensions are bent.

Insulation

A few tips are worth giving, however.

When asked how to insulate a bath from the inside, any occupational safety engineer will give an unambiguous answer: wearing glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. The fibers of the insulation are volatile and irritate the mucous membranes.

In case you have never worked with drywall, we will tell you about the sequence of installation of the profile.

Along the perimeter of the wall or ceiling, the UD guide profile is attached in increments of no more than 60 centimeters. It can be attached to logs or timber with self-tapping screws; for a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked (the distance between them, we recall, should allow the insulation plates to stand without undercutting). Then, along the axes with a step of 0.6 - 0.8 meters, suspensions are attached to the wall.
The CD profiles are installed and fixed to the hangers with metal screws 0.9 cm long. The free edges of the suspensions are bent.

Insulation

A few tips are worth giving, however.

When asked how to insulate a bath from the inside, any occupational safety engineer will give an unambiguous answer: wearing glasses and a respirator or gauze bandage. The fibers of the insulation are volatile and irritate the mucous membranes.

Important: in order to ensure reliable vapor barrier, it is not enough just to fix the material. It is necessary to glue all the joints with the same aluminum tape: then moisture is guaranteed not to get to the insulation.

Clapboard sheathing

How to properly insulate the bath from the inside, we seem to figure it out. And how to make an insulated room beautiful? Let's start by preparing the tools and additional materials that will be required for the wall cladding.

Drill - screwdriver.

Drill - screwdriver.
Jigsaw or circular saw.
Rasp. They have to adjust and process the edges of the lining.
Joiner's square. It is not worth marking out fairly wide boards by eye.
Plumb line and level. It is better to check verticals and horizontals by them.
Metal clamps for wooden lining. Of course, galvanized: rusty streaks of the walls will not decorate.

Thermal insulation of the balcony with foam: features of the work).

Drill - screwdriver.
Jigsaw or circular saw.
Rasp. They have to adjust and process the edges of the lining.
Joiner's square. It is not worth marking out fairly wide boards by eye.
Plumb line and level. It is better to check verticals and horizontals by them.
Metal clamps for wooden lining. Of course, galvanized: rusty streaks of the walls will not decorate.

Thermal insulation of the bath from the inside: how and how to properly insulate the walls with your own hands, diagram, instruction, photo, price and video tutorials

When construction work is nearing completion, the question arises of how best to insulate the bath. The choice of a suitable material and the methods of its installation, the technology for performing insulation are very crucial moments.

How to choose insulation

What is the best way to insulate a bath? For this, natural or synthetic materials are used.

cuckoo flax;
moss red;
linseed tow;
hemp hemp
sphagnum.

Kukushkin flax is one of the natural types of insulation

These materials do not require serious material costs, are highly environmentally friendly and will help create a special atmosphere in the bath, filling the interior space with natural natural aromas.

The main disadvantages of organic materials that must be taken into account when choosing what kind of insulation is better for insulating a bath:

fragility of the material;
significant labor costs;
the need for constant renewal of insulation.

Provide protection against small rodents, birds and insects.

Many homeowners believe that it is better to insulate the bath with synthetic materials that do not rot and are not damaged by rodents.

Jute felt

What is the best way to insulate the bath from the outside or from the inside? Jute felt can be used as a mezhventsovy heater for a bath. It is an organic natural material made from plant fiber.

Flax-jute felt is used not only for thermal insulation, but also for removing excess moisture from the inner space of the bath

To improve performance, flax fiber is added to the jute fibers. The result is linen or linen felt. Material release form - tape bobbins. This allows you to choose insulation for logs of different diameters.

Flax-jute felt is used not only for thermal insulation, but also for removing excess moisture from the interior of the bath. It is a durable material that will not be spoiled by any animals.

Expanded clay as insulation

Expanded clay is a free-flowing material of natural origin. It is a granule with a porous structure. Expanded clay is often used to insulate baths or other buildings due to the following qualities:

moisture resistance;
relatively small specific gravity;
high strength of granules;
resistance of granules to mechanical damage;
durability;
low price.

Thermal insulation of the floor with expanded clay

It is not difficult to work with expanded clay. Together with it, you can use other bulk materials.

Synthetic insulation

Currently, synthetic insulation is produced in large quantities and can be of the following types:

extruded polystyrene foam (XPS boards) or ordinary;
Styrofoam;
mineral wool;
glass wool.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath with polystyrene foam

Each material has unique properties:

Expanded polystyrene provides reliable thermal insulation. Moreover, the material has a low cost and low specific weight. It should be borne in mind that ordinary polystyrene foam is fire hazardous and easily deformed under the influence of high temperatures. Therefore, in the bath, it is used to insulate the dressing room, utility rooms, rest rooms. Expanded polystyrene must not be used in the washing and steam room.
For a bath, it is better to choose XPS boards or extruded polystyrene foam. This material has a hermetic cellular structure and a low specific gravity. XPS boards are resistant to moisture, compression and high stress. This gives them durability and reliability in operation.
Polyfoam is used for external insulation of a bath, built of bricks or cinder blocks. It is glued to the outer vertical surfaces of the structure. Plaster and finishing material is applied on top. Polyfoam is highly flammable, so it cannot be used for interior decoration in a bath.
The main material for the production of mineral wool is molten rocks or metallurgical waste. Therefore, the cost of this insulation is low compared to other similar materials.

Thermal insulation of a bath with mineral wool

The result is a heater that has such positive properties as:

It is easy and convenient to work with such insulation. The service life of the material is quite high. Therefore, when deciding how to insulate the bath, you can opt for sheets or mats made of mineral wool.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool allows you to provide such conditions in the bath as:

low thermal conductivity;
high sound insulation;
hydrophobicity.

Glass wool is produced by interweaving fine fibers of inorganic glass

The main thing to remember is that mineral wool is easily subject to mechanical damage. Therefore, when using it, you must act carefully and carefully.

Glass wool is produced by interweaving fine fibers of inorganic glass. High thermal insulation properties are ensured due to the large volume of air in the finished material.

The cost of glass wool is low. It is sold in roll and / or tiled form. The thickness of glass wool varies, so it is always easy to find the right option.

Preparatory work

When the insulation is selected, it is necessary to purchase all the additional materials necessary to work with it, prepare the tools. To insulate a bath, you may need:

construction knife;
roulette;
level;
hammer;
brushes and / or spatulas;
sledgehammer;
construction mixer;
container for mixing solutions;
work clothes, mittens, rags.

When the insulation is selected, it is necessary to purchase all the additional materials necessary to work with it, prepare the tools

It is better to make a list of everything necessary after it has been determined what is the best way to insulate the walls of the bath, the floor or the ceiling, and all the necessary materials will be purchased.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

Thinking about the best way to insulate the bath from the inside, you should remember about the high level of moisture content in the internal space. Therefore, vapor barrier must be ensured. This will preserve the integrity and basic useful properties of the insulation material. The walls of the room will collapse less under the influence of moisture and high temperatures.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of the bath? The most convenient steam insulator for a bath is considered to be aluminum foil. This material protects the heat insulator from destruction and helps to conserve heat in the interior of the bath. The seams between the sheets after the application of the foil must be sealed with a special metallized tape.

On a note! In different parts of the bath, there is a different level of moisture and temperature. Therefore, the decision as to the best way to insulate the bathhouse inside depends, first of all, on the specific room.

Various insulation materials are used, the technology of their installation is also different.

Steam room walls

The walls in the steam room are exposed to high temperatures and humidity. Therefore, how best to insulate a steam room in a bath should be considered in detail.

First, the crate is attached to the walls. It is best done using dry slats and / or thin beams. The resulting cells must be even and uniform in size. Fiberglass will be covered in them.

Thermal insulation with aluminum foil

A heat insulator is laid on top of the fiberglass. Basalt fiber is considered the most reliable for a steam room. The last layer is a vapor barrier. For this, aluminum foil is used.

When all the work is completed, decorative wall finishing is performed. To do this, you can use a lining made of durable types of wood. It should be remembered that if the internal space of the bath is not divided into several rooms, insulation according to the described scheme is carried out everywhere.

Basalt fiber is considered the most reliable for a steam room.

How to insulate the ceiling

The best way to insulate the ceiling in a bath depends on the purpose of a particular room. Do not use hygroscopic material in the wash and / or steam room. In the washroom or in the dressing room, you can use plastic wrap or kraft paper for vapor barrier.

On a note! To improve air circulation between the vapor barrier and the finishing material, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap (gap) of no more than 2 cm.

This will speed up the drying of the casing after using the bath, otherwise the abundant moisture will provoke rotting of the material, and it will have to be replaced.

How to insulate the floor

Significant heat loss in the bath occurs not only through the ceiling and walls, but also through the floor, especially when the bath is used in the cold season - in winter, autumn, early spring.

To figure out how and what is the best way to insulate the floor in the bath, you should remember that the order of laying the floor cake must be strictly observed. The earthen floor must be leveled, cleaned of debris and foreign objects and leveled. A concrete screed must be poured onto the prepared surface.

On the set concrete, you need to lay a layer of roll waterproofing. It can be roofing material or plastic wrap.

Further, the entire surface is laid out with a layer of heat insulator. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then roofing material or polyethylene is re-laid. The final layer is a concrete screed.

Laying all layers of the floor cake must be done carefully. Especially you need to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - this will preserve the integrity of all materials. Correctly carried out internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for the correct use of the bath and preservation of heat.

External insulation of a bath

The better to insulate the bath outside depends on the main building material from which the building was erected.

External floor insulation in the bath

For external insulation of a brick bath, mineral wool is most often used. It is best to apply this material in 2 layers, overlapping the seams between the previously laid sheets. This will prevent cold bridges and help keep warm.

The block bath is insulated in a similar way. For expanded clay concrete blocks, the outer insulation layer may be slightly thinner.

Wood retains heat well. In this case, the question of what is better to insulate the walls of the bath from the outside is solved a little easier. The basic scheme for overlaying a heat insulator layer depends on the wood building materials used.

Important! If the bath is built from a bar, it is imperative to seal the seams of the main box. To do this, you need to make neat layers of flax-jute fiber.

The solution to the question of what is the best way to insulate a frame bath requires special attention. The free space between the frame components must be filled with a heat insulator. For this, mineral wool is used, protected on both sides with a waterproofing film.

If a log house was erected for the bathhouse, only the inter-crown joints need to be insulated. For this, it is optimal to use linen-jute felt or other natural material.

How best to insulate a bath, description of materials and methods, video review

From the article you will learn what natural and synthetic materials exist for thermal insulation of premises, and how best to insulate the bath from the outside and inside.

How to insulate a log sauna outside

Thermal insulation of a bath from a log

After the construction of the log house and caulking of the cracks, the building must stand under the roof for at least six months. It is advisable not to operate the bath all this time. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, new cracks and gaps will appear. Here they also need to be caulked. To do this, use a special insulation based on jute and flax. Jute itself does not conduct heat well and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it breaks easily). To solve this problem, linen fibers are added to the insulation for log cabins. Thin strips of material are hammered into the slots with a hammer and a special metal caulking spatula. This must be done carefully so as not to skew the structure.

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It is easier to work with it: all available voids are filled from a special syringe.

Thermal insulation of a bath from a log using a sealant

A log house shrinks for two years. At this time, it is not recommended to sheathe it with finishing materials. So you will have access to newly emerging cracks, which need to be repaired from the inside and outside from time to time. To protect the insulation from the effects of precipitation, the outside of the building can be tightened with a film, fixing it with slats.

Two years after the construction, you can start finishing. For many, this will sound ridiculous, but log structures can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation of a bar, dies. To begin with, a crate is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increasing fire resistance), which is checked for verticality and horizontalness using a building level.

Lathing for insulation and decoration

A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you have chosen metal guides, they are attached to special suspensions.

Thermal insulation of a bath from a bar outside

Thermal insulation of a bath from a bar

The need for insulation outside depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climatic zone, insulation will be required according to the following scheme:

lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to set them both horizontally and vertically);
heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, wall thickness, and the type of insulation);
moisture and wind protection;
counter lathing (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and the finishing materials);
Decoration Materials.

Bath insulation outside

A bathhouse is usually sheathed outside from a bar: any type of clapboard, edged board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After the completion of the work, the wood trim is coated with varnishes for outdoor use, sometimes it is pretreated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

Metal siding guides are attached to special hangers

Insulation of a brick bath outside

Brick bath insulation scheme

For outdoor insulation, it is usually advised to use mineral wool. According to recent studies, they are not suitable for internal insulation of a bath - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation they are one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bath from the outside with expanded polystyrene plates, polystyrene (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its disadvantage is its high price). For high-quality performance of work, it is advised to lay two layers of inset (with an offset of half the length) to reduce heat loss due to overlapping seams. But this method takes more time, and it takes twice as much materials for insulation. Therefore, most often the insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are glued with reinforced tape.

Fabric Reinforced PVC Scotch Tape

Brick bath insulation and plastering scheme

Thermal insulation scheme for a brick bath according to the principle of a ventilated facade

Finishing the outside of the bath from blocks

Exterior decoration of the bath with decorative bricks

Thermal insulation scheme for aerated concrete bath

Recently, such a finishing material as a block house, which emulates a log wall, has become more and more popular. The block house is made of different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood.
A block bath sheathed with a block house looks like it was made of wood.

Block bath sheathed with block house

conclusions

A log bathhouse built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional insulation of the walls, either outside or inside.

When choosing an outdoor insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without harm to health, you can use mineral wool made with phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for insulating a bath inside. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene will also work.

If financial resources are available, the bathhouse can be sheathed with a metal block-house, which will serve for many years.

How to insulate a log sauna outside

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It is easier to work with it: all available voids are filled from a special syringe.

A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you have chosen metal guides, they are attached to special suspensions.

Thermal insulation of a bath from a bar outside

The need for insulation outside depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climatic zone, insulation will be required according to the following scheme:

lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to set them both horizontally and vertically);
heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, wall thickness, and the type of insulation);
moisture and wind protection;
counter lathing (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and the finishing materials);
Decoration Materials.

Insulation of a brick bath outside

Finishing the outside of the bath from blocks

Recently, such a finishing material as a block house, which emulates a log wall, has become more and more popular. The block house is made of different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. A block bath sheathed with a block house looks like it was made of wood.

Block bath sheathed with block house

conclusions

A log bathhouse built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not need additional insulation of the walls, either outside or inside.

When choosing an outdoor insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without harm to health, you can use mineral wool made with phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for insulating a bath inside. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene will also work.

If financial resources are available, the bathhouse can be sheathed with a metal block-house, which will serve for many years.

How and how to insulate a bath outside - options and examples

Experts recommend insulating bath buildings outside so that the temperature is well maintained in them, and heating costs are minimal. In addition, thanks to external thermal insulation, the building will be protected from the effects of precipitation and cold air masses, which will significantly extend its service life.

The bath is insulated from the outside in various ways, depending on what material was used in its construction. For buildings erected from rounded or sanded logs, it is recommended to seal existing cracks and crevices, since thick wood itself retains heat well. The washing room and steam room are usually insulated from the inside.

Insulation of a bath from a bar outside depends on how thick it is, as well as on the climatic conditions in the region. Be sure to insulate buildings erected from blocks and bricks, since these materials have high thermal conductivity, and to maintain the temperature, the thickness of the walls must be more than 80 centimeters, which is fraught with high costs. Therefore, such bath buildings will certainly insulate.

External insulation of log baths

Thermal protection of such buildings is reduced to the elimination of cracks. During the construction process, a special jute insulation is laid between the crowns, but over time, the wood begins to dry out, cracks and gaps appear, which have to be regularly removed.

After the completion of the construction of the log house and the elimination of the shortcomings, the building must be kept under the roof for at least six months. During this time, it is advisable not to use the bath. The log house will sit down, the tree will dry up, and new cracks will appear, which should be caulked.

For this purpose, a special insulation made of flax and jute is used. Since jute has excellent heat retention and is non-flammable, but tears easily, linen fibers are added to it to eliminate this problem. Thin pieces of insulation are hammered into the cracks using a metal caulking blade and a hammer. The work is done carefully so that the building does not skew.

In addition, when choosing the best way to insulate the bath outside, you should pay attention to a special sealant - to fill the gaps, you just need to squeeze the mixture from the syringe directly into the voids.

The log house continues to shrink for two years. Experts advise during this period not to sheathe it with finishing materials so that there is access to the emerging cracks, which have to be periodically removed. To protect the insulation from various precipitation, you should cover the outside with a film, fixing it with slats.

Finishing can be done two years after construction. Buildings made of logs are allowed to be sheathed with dies, clapboard, and besides this with a block house, imitation of a bar. First, a crate is installed on the walls. If it is wooden, then it must be treated with impregnations with antibacterial and fire-resistant properties, and then checked by the building level for compliance with horizontal and verticality.

A finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then coated with varnish or other protective agent. If metal guides were purchased, then they are fixed on special suspensions.

Insulation of a wooden bath from the outside is not performed, since the logs themselves retain heat well. They insulate the structure from the inside - usually a steam room and a washing room. But if you still want to insulate the building outside, then a steam or hydro-barrier is placed on the material that is afraid of moisture, fixing it with slats, on which the finish is then mounted.

Thermal insulation of baths from a bar

External insulation of bath buildings from a bar is made in the same way as in the case of a structure made of logs. The building must also settle down, since gaps also appear in it, which must be repaired.

As for the question of how to insulate a bath from a bar outside, the choice depends on the climatic features of the region, the thickness of the walls. This work is performed in the event that the thickness of the timber for a given type of climate is not enough to effectively retain heat.

Warming takes place as follows:

lathing is performed using a bar or metal guides, exposing the elements in two planes - vertical and horizontal;
install thermal insulation materials;
equip moisture and wind protection;
counter battens are made (this is not a mandatory stage of work, but there must be a gap between the protective film and the finishing material);
carry out finishing.

The bathhouse is sheathed outside with clapboard, siding, edged board, block house, metal profile and other materials. After finishing, wood trim is necessarily covered with a varnish for outdoor use, sometimes it is additionally painted before this, although many modern mixtures also have a slight tinting effect.

When siding was used as a finishing material, it becomes mandatory to arrange a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the insulation. To create the lathing, it is recommended to use guides, which can be purchased at the same place as the siding. They are attached to special suspensions.

Thermal protection of brick baths

The question often arises of how best to insulate the bath from the outside or from the inside, if it is made of bricks. Such buildings must be thermally insulated, since this building material is characterized by high thermal conductivity, and without external thermal protection it is extremely difficult to warm up the premises to the required temperature.

The sequence of arranging insulation remains the same:

Frame.
Insulation.
Wind and moisture insulation.
Ventilation gap.
Finishing.

It is recommended to use mineral wool as an external insulator. Solving the problem of how to properly insulate the bath from the outside or from the inside: it should be borne in mind that mineral wool is not suitable for interior work, since it begins to release formaldehyde when heated. Outside, the brick structure can be protected with foam, expanded polystyrene plates (they are more expensive, but they last for a long time) and foamed glass (the main disadvantage is the high cost).

In order to improve the quality of thermal insulation, experts recommend laying two layers apart, with a half-length offset - this allows you to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. True, this method is more expensive, since 2 times more material is required, and besides, it takes a lot of time to work. For this reason, the insulation is usually carried out in one layer, laying tightly one mat to the second, and the joints are connected with reinforced tape.

For cladding a brick bath, siding or wood cladding is used. Another way of exterior decoration is the use of plaster, if foam glass, polystyrene foam or polystyrene boards were chosen for thermal protection. In this case, a reinforced mesh is laid on top of this material, a primer is placed and then plaster.

They also use the following method, how to insulate a bathhouse outside with their own hands - following the example of a ventilated facade. In such a situation, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall with an interval of 1 centimeter less than the width of the insulation. Then, between them, plates or insulation mats are tightly fixed.

For reliability, they are reinforced with dowels, although this is not mandatory - the material will hold on well by itself, for the purpose of which they make such a fixation step. The joints of the slabs are connected with reinforced tape or treated with an adhesive, a waterproofing film is laid on top and fastened with strips. After that, guides are mounted on the brackets, which hold the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for finishing. According to this algorithm, it is possible to thermally insulate baths from cinder blocks, foam blocks, aerated concrete.

External decoration of baths from blocks

As for how to insulate the bath outside, then for a building from blocks it is allowed to use the same options as in the above cases. Another way is to decorate the bath building with decorative brickwork, but this method can be used only if the temperature in the building is constantly kept above zero.

If a decision is made to lay out the bathhouse from blocks with bricks, then the additional wall can not be made completely, stepping back 5-10 centimeters. Thanks to this, the thermal insulation performance will slightly improve. The gap is either left empty, or filled with heat-insulating material - processed sawdust, expanded clay, and so on.

In order to prevent moisture from collecting in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are created in the outer walls, and short pieces of fastening fittings are driven into the load-bearing ones in order to securely fix the finishing structure.

Today, block house is very popular - a finish that imitates a wall of logs. It is made from various materials: wood, vinyl (PVC), metal. The building, sheathed with a block house, looks as if it is made of natural wood.

If the question arises of how to insulate an old bath, then the work is carried out in the same way as during the construction of a new one, depending on the material from which it was built. Finally, you can sheathe it with finishing materials, and the building will look attractive again.

Thermal insulation of a bath is an important measure, without which it will not be possible to maintain a high temperature in the building. In addition, the cost of heating the premises will be reduced. Regarding the problem of how to insulate a wooden bath from the outside, then its solution depends on what building material the structure was quickly erected from. The work is simple enough that you can handle it yourself. After warming the bath, all that remains is to finish it with a suitable material - and it is completely ready for use.

Before insulating a bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It is imperative to take into account what material the bathhouse was built from (brick, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your area.

Log house thermal insulation

From time immemorial, a log house was put up for a traditional Russian bath. Although it is known that the tree retains heat quite well and the log house can be more than 20 cm in diameter, it is still worth insulating the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth insulating the bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you are convinced that it is extremely necessary to insulate your bath. So, let's look at ways to insulate a bath outside. In order to best insulate the log house, caulking (caulking) should be carried out.

Most often caulking occurs in 3 stages:

during the first stage, the crowns are stacked one by one, a special inter-crown insulation is placed on the lower crown;
you should go to the second stage in a year, immediately after shrinkage occurs;
but the third stage of warming takes place only four years later, already after the bath was built. At this stage, caulking is presented as the restoration of a previously installed sauna heater.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it has begun to quickly release heat, then it is worth using a heater based on jute and linen. This jute retains heat well and is non-flammable. The truth should be remembered that it can easily break. And for this reason, flax was added to the insulation. It is important to do this very carefully when blocking the cracks with this insulation, since if you carelessly, you can provoke a skewing of the bath. You can also use a syringe-shaped sealant to eliminate unwanted crevices. It is easier to use and fills all the gaps with high quality.

Brick bath, the procedure for insulation

It is known that a brick wall cools down much faster than a wooden surface, for example, a log house. This is because the brick gives off heat much faster. And although there are practically no cracks or gaps in the brick walls, the brick wall still heats up for a very long time. But remember that this applies to a non-insulated room.

It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good thermal insulation and fire resistance properties.

It is best to use isospan as a hydro and vapor barrier. Since it is this material that protects mineral wool from all kinds of moisture.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the formation of fungus and without isospan, the thermal insulation may not last as long as you would like. Speaking about the decoration of the walls in your bath, everything completely depends on your financial resources and preferences. But it is best to protect the insulation from the outside using siding or clapboard.

The preparation of the walls is reduced to the removal of all kinds of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finishes, etc. streets will be sucked in through the cracks in the bottom of the walls.
First you need to drill holes for the dowels to fix the metal brackets into the brick wall. The metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected dimensions of the insulation. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be ventilated ineffectively, moisture will accumulate in the cotton wool.
Brackets are fixed with dowels, to which, after laying the mineral wool slabs, profiles of aluminum or galvanized stainless steel are attached. The thickness of the mineral wool slabs is selected based on climatic conditions; for central Russia, 15 cm slabs are sufficient, or a two-layer installation of 100 and 50 mm insulating mats is acceptable. Cotton wool is inserted between the brackets, the installation is carried out from the bottom up, additional fixation is carried out by "mushrooms" - front dowels.

Note! The metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically to a brick wall. Dowels are used for fastening, they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. Holes for anchors are also drilled in the bars. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "Width of insulation minus 1-1.5 cm". Plates with a thickness of 50 mm are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the sheathing beams are horizontally fixed for the second layer of insulation, and both layers of insulation are attached to the wall with front "fungi". The last stage of work, both in the first case and when using wooden blocks, is to stretch the Izospan strips, glue its joints, after which a vertical counter-lattice is packed under the siding / lining.

"Wet" methods of brick bath insulation

The procedure for warming a frame building

The design of the frame-panel bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not suitable for high-weight insulation. And although mineral wool is lightweight, complete with decorative trim, the weight becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, it will be much better to use polystyrene for insulation, because this insulation is much lighter, it will not contribute to deformation of the walls.

Styrofoam also has properties such as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that foam has a number of other advantages. When insulating with this material, you will not need to build a separate frame, the foam should only be attached to special glue.

Plastering on a grid can be used as a decorative finish. But remember that this should be done only after you have installed the insulation and the glue is completely dry.

Due to the fact that many craftsmen believe that when heated, the foam loses its shape and begins to gradually collapse, they still recommend thinking about using mineral wool when insulating the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Do-it-yourself frame bath insulation

Video - Rules and mistakes of warming a bath from the inside and outside

How to insulate a foam block bath

Many experts say that insulating a foam block bath should be done using the same technology that is used to insulate a brick bath. Others consider this opinion erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. It follows from this that a foam block bath must be protected from moisture from the inside, while for a brick bath, a waterproofing material is sufficient.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene. This is a fairly durable material with high thermal insulation properties and physicochemical properties, it can be easily mounted even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the insulation by rodents.

Thermal insulation of a foam block bath, the main stages of work

Important note. Aerated concrete bath is insulated according to the same principle as a cinder block bath.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the battens (the installation procedure is described above). Make sure that there are no gaps between the batten and the heat insulator.

If foam is used for insulation, it is recommended to additionally secure it with front dowels or use glue, and glue the joints of the sheets with construction tape.

A waterproofing material is stretched over the layer of insulation, and overlaps of adjacent canvases of 10-15 cm are strictly observed and glued. The roll material is directly fixed with thin strips of counter-lattice. Further, the fastening of decorative facade panels will be made.

How to insulate a bath from the inside

The technologies for insulating a log house and a brick bath are very similar. Most craftsmen do not consider it necessary to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside, paying attention only to the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why the bath should be insulated from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

Why do you need to insulate the bath from the inside

The diameter of a wooden crown in a log bath is most often 20 centimeters. If the caulking was done with high quality, then you will not need to insulate your bath from the inside at all. But there are still reasons why this is necessary:

it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the log house is small, which in the future will lead to poor thermal insulation;
the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation has not been insulated. Or it was insulated, but very weakly;
because of bad weather conditions, the outside insulation of the bath is insufficient.

The masters are sure that if it is enough to insulate the bath with good quality, then it will take 3 times less energy to heat it, and it will be possible to use a weaker stove.

The walls of the insulated bath are very similar in structure to a thermos (sometimes it is called the "cake" of insulation). After all, those who are going to really insulate the bath with high quality will need steam and waterproofing.

The walls of the insulated bath have the following structure: a pre-prepared wall, an obligatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier and, of course, decorative trim.

If you choose the right quality material, then you can independently cope with the insulation of the bath from the inside very quickly. To insulate the bath, you will need material that will:

high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
not prone to rotting, and will not be damaged by a variety of insects;
most importantly, the insulation must be fire resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable in terms of quality and properties for the internal insulation of a bath, most often experts use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a very reasonable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic boards that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that when insulating walls, you should perform hydro and vapor barrier in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely related.

First of all, you should prepare the surface of the walls.

If you see any crevices or seams, then you should fill them with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend using a sealant. After you have finished, you should move on to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. If your bathhouse was made of a log house, then waterproofing immediately after construction is strictly prohibited. To begin with, you should wait until the shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How hydro and thermal insulation is made

First of all, the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath should be protected from moisture. It is best to use polyethylene film or special foil.

The insulation technology itself using foil is simple. The following should be done:

Note. All bars should be greased with a special antiseptic beforehand.

Bath decoration from the outside

Due to the fact that we already have the necessary wooden frame, we can only find high-quality material for the exterior decoration of the bath. Only after that the insulation of the bath can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external cladding of a bath in Russia.

In conclusion, to all of the above, it will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and useful advice from specialists.

For a long time in Russia, the walls of the bath were insulated exclusively with natural materials: felt, flax and moss, which are occasionally used today, were used. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skill. Much better modern synthetic materials - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of a bath seems like a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about this, the warmer and safer your bath will be.

For reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate the inside of the bath exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films, sewn up from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of wall insulation from a log house

It would seem, why should the walls be insulated in log structures? The fact is that such a building material as a log house is characterized by shrinkage, from which serious cracks are formed. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not beneficial either for health or for finances in terms of unnecessary spending on fuel. Therefore, such a bath needs to be insulated, and the most effective way is mezhventsovaya caulking.

All that needs to be done is to lay out the insulation even during the construction of the log house, and at the end of the construction process the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with a sealant.

Technology of the process of warming frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath from the frame is more intricate - here you already need your own methods. After all, such a structure cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. insulation can only be used with a low weight. And foam as an external insulation is simply irreplaceable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary building glue.

The insulation of the walls from the inside in the bath itself looks like this:

Step 1. Creates a frame on the load-bearing wall.
Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least a plastic film. They need to be overlapped, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
Step 4. Everything is sheathed with boards or clapboard - that's all.

Alternatively, use special PU foam plates.

Insulation of walls outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And also high-quality external thermal insulation means a significant reduction in fuel consumption, control of humidity and a guarantee against mold and unpleasant odors. After all, the main task of external insulation of a bath is to shelter building structures, to protect them from contact with cold air and atmospheric precipitation.

Next, how to insulate the walls in a bathhouse made of bricks and all sorts of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden planks.

But good old mineral wool is most suitable as a heat insulator for such a "pie": it is environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproof and has low thermal conductivity. The insulation process itself looks like this:

Step 1. Brackets are attached, which are made in the form of squares. Between them - a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares, which you need to acquire are elastic, capable of withstanding significant pressure.
Step 3. The remaining joints between the boards are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
Step 4. The walls are covered with a roll-up waterproofing, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
Step 5. Now - the installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, universal materials have already appeared on the modern market that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil-clad penotherm - expanded polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and metal-sprayed levsan. It can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates a really effective bath insulation.

How can you insulate a bath outside and inside

The Russian bath does not lose its popularity, and at the same time it must be built in compliance with the relevant rules and regulations. Therefore, the question of what can be used to insulate the bath remains very relevant.

Some features of bath insulation

Competent thermal insulation of the bath will help to significantly reduce fuel costs, improve the quality of the procedure, and keep the building itself in good condition for a long time, especially if the bath is used all year round.

For a long time, Russian baths were insulated using natural materials - moss, tow, bast, etc. Nowadays, it is better to use artificial insulation. They are durable, easy to install, and environmentally friendly.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of using bath rooms - a high level of moisture, high temperatures, often a live fire. All these points impose certain requirements on heaters for a bath, especially if they will be used for internal insulation.

Before purchasing the material, it is necessary to carefully consider a number of important factors, taking into account the cost, biological inertness, technical characteristics of the proposed heat insulators. Another important point is the regional climate. The amount of materials required is determined by the dimensions of the sauna building and the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Whether it is necessary and possible to insulate the bath outside depends on the material from which it is built, the regional climate and the time of use - seasonal or year-round.

Required tools and materials

In order to carry out the thermal insulation of the bath yourself, you must prepare the following set of tools:

construction tape;
screwdriver;
building level and plumb line;
axe;

chisel;
saw or hacksaw;
hammer;
jigsaw;
nippers or pliers;
sharp technical knife;
electric drill or hammer drill.

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to work:

vapor barrier film;
wooden beam;
metal rail;
screws and nails;
adhesive tape.

How to choose insulation

The bath usually has: a dressing room, washing rooms, a steam room, a dressing room, a relaxation room. In these rooms, different levels of humidity and temperature are set during washing. Therefore, what can be used to insulate the bath inside is determined for each room separately.

According to their mechanical characteristics, heaters are divided into bulk, block and slab, masterbatch and fibrous materials.

The chemical composition makes it possible to divide heat insulators into organic, inorganic, technical and plastic materials.

Thermal insulators on a plastic basis are best used for insulating rooms with low levels of moisture and temperatures. They are not used in the steam room due to their flammability and deformation when heated. Cheap and safe organic heat insulators can be used in the steam room only after treatment against fire.

The most practical are inorganic heat insulators. These materials are fire-resistant, non-hygroscopic. They do not rot and can serve for a long time without losing their basic technical properties.

More about vapor barriers

The most successful vapor barrier for all areas of the bath is aluminum foil. It is fire-resistant, durable, non-hygroscopic. The main advantage of aluminum foil is the ability to reflect heat. By using such a vapor barrier in a bath, you can significantly reduce the consumption of fuel material.

Glassine, as well as roofing felt in the steam room, cannot be used, since these materials, when heated, emit volatile toxic substances. In some versions, glassine can be used as insulation. It is better not to use roofing material for this purpose at all.

The choice of insulation and the method of its installation depend on the material from which the bath is built. If the bathhouse is built of timber, a cellular lathing made of beams is first mounted on the load-bearing walls. The cross-section of the timber should be 0.2-0.3 cm more than the thickness of the heat insulator. This will ensure the safety of the insulation and its useful properties.

The selected heat insulator is placed between the battens of the sheathing. It is covered with a vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier is stacked with a shift. A thin metal rail is mounted on top of the joints. Between the insulation and the vapor barrier, a gap of no more than 3 cm must be left.

Room corners, pipes, window and door openings are sealed with a special vapor barrier tape. This will protect problem areas from moisture penetration.

For finishing, in this case, it is easier to use a lining board. It is stuffed over the vertical crate.

Bath buildings of panel or frame type are insulated only with heat insulators having a low specific weight. Before use, they are treated with milk of lime to protect against corrosion and increase fire resistance. After processing, the material must be thoroughly dried.

We insulate the steam room

The steam room in the bath requires special attention. After all, it is here that the highest moisture level and elevated temperature are observed during operation. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and finishing of this room must be done with special materials.

The ceiling of the steam room is exposed to maximum heating during operation (up to 150 ° C). Therefore, the question of what can be used to insulate the ceiling of the bath is solved by using materials with high temperature resistance.

In the absence of an attic or attic, the insulation is mounted in the following order:

wooden lattice from a bar on the ceiling boards;
cladding elements;
thermal insulation;
vapor barrier.

In the presence of an upper room - an attic, an attic - the insulation scheme looks somewhat different. A layer of clay is applied to the ceiling boards, at least 2 cm thick. This will ensure moisture retention. All small holes, joints between boards, etc. are filled with bulk material. Usually expanded clay or chips are used for this. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.

A box-shaped base of rafter supports is mounted on the ceiling around the chimney. This will provide a 20 cm gap between the pipe and the heat insulator required by fire safety. A non-combustible heat insulator such as glass wool or mineral wool is placed inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.

The walls and ceiling of the sauna building must be insulated according to the following principles:

Heat insulators should be in close contact with the wall surface to reduce the risk of internal moisture and cold air ingress.
On top of the insulation, a ventilation gap is required to dry it.
All floors and other wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent premature destruction of the material.
Materials with a low level of thermal and moisture resistance cannot be used in the steam room.
Heaters should be chosen from those that do not deform under the influence of moisture and high temperatures and do not emit hazardous chemicals.

Necessary properties of heaters for a bath:

heat resistance;
moisture resistance;
environmental friendliness;
Fire safety.

Natural insulation requires special processing before use. Otherwise, mold, fungus and harmful insects may soon appear. In this case, it is more expedient to use artificial insulation.

Foam application

Many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam. After all, it is a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use material. However, it should be said that the bath can be insulated with polystyrene from the outside or along the foundation.

To the question of whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam from the inside, most experts will answer negatively. This is due to the fact that the foam is easily destroyed under the influence of high temperatures. The low moisture resistance of this material causes it to rot when exposed to high humidity. Therefore, for the interior of the bath, polystyrene can be used only in rooms where moisture almost does not get.

Use of mineral wool

The question of whether it is possible to insulate the bath with mineral wool is usually resolved positively.

After all, mineral wool is an almost universal modern insulation, which has many positive technical characteristics. Among them are:

reliability;
moisture resistance;
heat resistance;
fire safety;
not susceptible to decay;
simple installation.

Therefore, mineral wool can be used as a heater for a bath, both outside and indoors, including the steam room.

Penoplex insulation

Is it possible to insulate the bath from the inside with Penoplex? This is quite acceptable given some of the technical characteristics of the material. In the presence of many useful properties, penoplex is a hygroscopic material with low heat resistance.

Therefore, in the steam room it is better to use it only on the walls and be sure to cover it with foil. In other sections of the bath, it is quite suitable.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath

The bath floor is usually made of wood planks or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washroom and in the steam room. Floor insulation technology depends on the base material.

For insulation of a concrete floor, expanded clay (3-5 mm), extruded polystyrene or boiler slag are most often used. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation work is understood to be 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be leveled and cleaned of debris and dust. Next, an adhesive is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Most often, special mastics are used for this, for example, rubber concrete. A waterproofing agent is laid on the adhesive - high-strength polyethylene or roofing material.

After the waterproofer is set, the insulation begins to be laid. On top of it, an adhesive is again applied, on which the waterproofing agent is laid. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, at least 30 mm thick. The concrete must be leveled and dried properly. The finishing of such a floor is usually done with ceramic tiles. Under it you can place a warm floor system.

To insulate a wooden floor, you must first remove the old boards. A cranial bar is planted on the remaining beams from below. It must be wrapped with roofing material or heavy-duty polyethylene. A rough floor covering is laid on top of the waterproofer. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in a bath with isopink? It is possible if the floor is wooden and is installed in a room with a low level of moisture.

A waterproofing material is applied over the insulation. Then the board for the final floor is laid. A plinth is attached to the perimeter of the room. The final paintwork is not used in this case, since these materials release toxins under the influence of temperature and moisture. If desired, the wooden floor can be covered with special rubberized rugs. They will make the room cozy and will not cause a lot of hassle when cleaning. The floor in the bath is insulated mainly for greater user comfort. The floor insulation has little effect on the overall temperature inside the bath rooms.

Roof insulation

How can you insulate the roof of a bathhouse - this problem is solved depending on the use of the room. If the sauna building is intended only for hygiene and relaxation, it will be enough to lay roofing material on the crate to insulate the roof before installing the roofing cake. In the case when brooms will be dried inside the bath, linen and other equipment are stored, the roof must be thoroughly insulated.

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