Living in a private house, every owner dreams of creating maximum comfort in it, ensuring a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry in advance about such an important issue as installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to do all the work competently, correctly and not harm the environment.
With the independent construction of the sewer system, you can decently save. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.
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The choice of a sewer system scheme should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your home.
When planning, we recommend to provide for the most compact placement of rooms for which water will be drained and supplied (bathrooms, shower rooms, bathrooms, laundries and kitchens). But the best option is to place it in such a way that all plumbing equipment will be tied to one collector, through which wastewater will be drained into a septic tank or cesspool.
In the presence of a large country house, which provides for several different rooms with drainage / supply of water located in different parts of the building, experts advise giving preference to such a sewerage scheme, in which there will be at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms, baths and kitchens are on different floors, then you will have to install risers.
Installation of sewerage in a private house. Types of sewerage
All work on the construction of sewerage in a country house or in the country is reduced to the installation of external and internal sewage.
The work on internal sewerage should include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and piping for such premises as a kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. External or external sewage refers to everything that is outside the house, that is, a system of pipes that go from the house to the deep cleaning station (a rather expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or filtration field).
Of course, if you can connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. However, below we will consider an autonomous system that includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.
Installation of internal sewerage in a private house
First of all, you need to deal with the internal circuit. Even during the design of the house, care must be taken to ensure that all the premises where sewerage will be carried out are as close as possible to each other, since this approach simplifies the scheme of the internal sewage system. Each private house involves the installation of an individual sewerage scheme, which can vary greatly.
Therefore, you must take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used in the toilet for draining. For gray drains entering the sewer from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows that are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will minimize the possibility of blockage in the future (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to eliminate it).
It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewerage scheme. In addition, it is much easier to arrange an internal sewerage system using such pipes.
First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.But first of all, you should figure out as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, since in the future you can use it to complete the calculation of materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed to install a sewer system in a private house.
You can make a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is better to buy several sheets of graph paper for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure and a sharp pencil.
The sewerage scheme for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:
- First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house on a scale. If you do not know the dimensions, then you will have to use a tape measure and carefully measure everything.
- Next, you need to decide on the location of the risers.
- Then, on the plan, you need to mark the locations of the plumbing and decide how they will be connected.
- Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to plumbing fixtures, and all connecting elements (bends, tees, etc.).
- All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.
- Now decide on the size of the riser and the fan pipe.
- Add the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewerage.
- Another stage is the external sewerage. It is necessary to draw up its scheme: the location of the pipes coming from the septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet. At the same time, do not forget all the available SNiPs.
Sewerage installation in a private house: choice of pipes
For the reason that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, are significantly different, then the pipes for such sewerage systems must be different. Today, PVC or PP pipes, which are distinguished by their characteristic gray color, are usually used for laying internal sewage. For risers and sun loungers, their diameter should be 110 mm, and for the outlet - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewage, and other solutions should be used for external ones.
Typically, pipes that are installed underground from a septic tank or deep cleaning station to discharge are orange in color, which is extremely simple - the bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground. But the pipes used for external sewage differ from others not only in color, but also in the requirements that apply to them. They have high rigidity, since they have a significant load.More reliable designs are also offered, a striking example of which are two-layer corrugated pipes. But their laying depth, when maintaining a sewer system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite enough to drain wastewater.
Below we will consider all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made of different materials, among which are the most used:
- Cast iron.
Advantages: durable and strong pipes, able to withstand high loads.
Disadvantages: heavy and fragile, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness may form, which can cause blockage.
- Polypropylene.
Advantages: flexible and lightweight, making them in high demand for internal sewage. Cope well with high flow temperatures.
Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.
- Polyvinyl chloride.
Advantages: reminiscent of cast iron, light and inexpensive. Most often used for outdoor sewage.
Disadvantages: they do not tolerate high wastewater temperatures, brittle (crack, do not bend).
Sewerage installation in a private house: pipe laying
Perhaps the most difficult process in the construction of an autonomous sewage system in a country house is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you are going to do this work on your own, then call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling it with water, and only then, when you are sure of the reliability of all seams, proceed to full operation.
Pipe connection
As mentioned earlier, the easiest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewage. Today, a huge number of products are offered on the construction market, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes that are easily and securely connected at the joints, which is ensured by the presence of rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with sanitary sealant. Well, where the pipe passes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.
Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of a pipe in a non-pressure system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per 1 meter. Keep this in mind, as different points of the pipeline will have to be laid at different heights to provide the necessary slope.
Sewer outlet
In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the external and internal sewage systems, you need to start installing the sewer in a private house from the outlet (the boundary part of the sewer connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe leaving the house).
The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the depth of soil freezing corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the outlet even higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after warmer weather.
If you did not take care of this during the construction of the foundation, then you will have to punch a hole in its structure, into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can easily fit. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with a larger diameter than that of the sewer (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.
Summarizing all of the above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary so that you can set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm per 1 m).Wiring and installation of the riser
It is good if the riser is in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how exactly the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, pendants, etc.).
To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, adapters must be used. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, shower and bath, you need to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water seals that will protect the sense of smell from unpleasant odors.
On each riser, it is imperative to mount a special tee with which you can clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, mount the cleaning after each turn of the pipe.
Exhaust pipe outlet
It should be said right away that the output and installation of the fan pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:
- maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air discharge and water hammer do not occur;
- increase the durability of sewerage;
- ventilation of the entire system, which is required for the efficient operation of the septic tank.
The fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and the fan pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can bring the pipe to the attic at any convenient angle.
We do not recommend simplifying the work by combining a fan pipe with ventilation or a chimney. In addition, it is necessary to locate its exit as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, house ventilation and a chimney at different levels.Summing up all the above, we can note the following:
- at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from plumbing to the riser;
- it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser, in the course of connecting other additional devices (avoid reducing the diameter);
- follow one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be located to the riser (the toilet should be closest to the riser);
- where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision;
- in the wiring system for ventilation, there must be a fan pipe.
Installation of external sewerage in a private house
You can equip an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands in various ways, which we will discuss below. It is important to correctly choose a system that would fully satisfy the needs.
It is necessary to decide on the scheme for arranging sewerage, taking into account the following factors:
- permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
- the number of people who live in the house daily;
- daily water consumption by one person (depends on the presence of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet bowl, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
- groundwater level;
- soil structure and type;
- the size of your area around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
- climatic conditions.
All sewerage systems for a private house can be divided into 2 types:
- storage systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container);
- facilities used for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural treatment and two overflowing wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).
Cesspool without a bottom
A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of sewerage in a private house. Even 50 years ago, this method simply had no alternatives. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.
A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. In it, you can make walls of concrete rings, concrete, bricks and other material, leaving the soil as the bottom. After sewage enters the pit from the house, relatively clean water, being purified, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.
Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was full, they simply buried it and dug a new hole in another place.
It is worth considering the fact that it is possible to install sewerage in a private house with the help of a cesspool only when the volume of drains per day does not exceed 1 m 3. Only in this way can soil microorganisms that feed on organic matter have time to process water that penetrates into the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if this norm is exceeded by the volume of wastewater, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will provoke pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.
If you add microorganisms to the pit, it will reduce the unpleasant odor coming from it, and the cleaning process will be significantly accelerated. But be that as it may, you should not risk it.
Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but happens only a few times a week, without spending a lot of water. At the same time, it should be taken into account that groundwater should lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. The cesspool has a low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.
Sealed container, presented in the form of a storage tank
In this case, a special sealed container must be installed next to the house, where sewage will flow from the house through pipes. You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewer is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.
This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely filled, you will have to call a sewage truck, which will not be very expensive. The frequency of emptying the tank is directly dependent on the volume of wastewater and the size of the tank. For example, if 4 people live in a house using a toilet, washing machine, bath and shower, then the volume of the storage tank should be at least 8 m 3, and it should be cleaned every 10-14 days.
Therefore, if a high occurrence of groundwater is noted on your site, then it makes sense to use an airtight cesspool to equip the sewerage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution.
But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.
It is also important that the lid of the storage tank is well insulated and that the pipeline has good frost protection. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. The cheapest option is to use used Eurocubes, and the most expensive is concrete pouring or brick. Do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.Single-chamber septic tank - the easiest way to clean the soil
It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with an insignificant layer of rubble (not less than 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is poured over it with the same layer. Otherwise, sewage from the house penetrates through pipes into the well, where water seeps through crushed stone, sand and soil, being cleaned by 50%. Naturally, sand and gravel greatly increases the quality of water treatment, but does not solve this problem radically.
In a private house, it is not recommended to build sewers using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in the case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and low groundwater levels. In addition, periodically you need to change the sand and gravel, as they become silted.
Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells
The construction of overflow settling wells and filter wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.
Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not, but is sprinkled with sand and gravel.
Waste water from the house is fed into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom, while greasy waste floats to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second one with the help of an overflow pipe approximately 2/3 of its height, which is under a slight slope, allowing water to flow there calmly.
Clarified water enters the second well, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, being purified even better.
The first well is used as a sump, and the second one is used as a filter. The first well fills up with feces from time to time and to clean it, you will need to call a special sewage machine. This should be done approximately once every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.
The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be carried out using special microorganisms.
It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during the flood period, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If there is sandy or sandy soil on the territory of your site, then this will be an excellent option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.
Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with filtration field
This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, including several separate tanks, which are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.
The first capacity of the septic tank is used to settle the drains, as is the case in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second tank or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then the more clarified water goes to the filtration fields.
A fairly large underground area (approximately 30 m 2) acts as a filtration field. This is where primary wastewater treatment takes place. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%.
If there is sandy or sandy soil on your land, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from crushed stone and sand. Once the water has passed the filtration field, it can be collected in pipelines and directed to drainage ditches or pilot wells. It is forbidden to plant edible trees and vegetables above the filtration field, because in this case you will break a flower bed.
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Over time, the filtration can become silted up and it will have to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. This is a huge amount of work in which your site may suffer.Installation of a sewerage system with a filtration field is only suitable when groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.
Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station
Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is really possible to complete a complete installation of sewage in a private house. And this despite the high level of groundwater.
This station acts as a capacity, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, asking professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $1,200, which is not cheap.
The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require a constant supply of air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. In that pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, a special filter is installed, into which aerobic bacteria actually settle. It turns out a kind of filtering field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.
Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). Such purification allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing the car and many other purposes.
From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to the storage tank or to the drainage ditch.
For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is easy - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not need electricity. The downside is that it needs regular maintenance, as bacteria will simply die if left out of the sewage. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.
Artificial treatment stations - septic tank with forced air supply
This is an accelerated cleaning station, where natural processes occur artificially. The installation of a sewer system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for the air pump and connecting the air distributor.
Such a septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are interconnected. Through the sewer pipe, water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, is mixed with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their vital activity.
Then the water is mixed with sludge and goes to the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump. Further, with the help of a special pump, the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank.
Forced air supply provides fast wastewater treatment, and water after treatment can be used for various technical needs (car washing, watering the garden, etc.).
Of course, the aerotank will cost you quite a lot (from $ 3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. When installing sewers of this type there are no restrictions. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that the bacteria do not die.
If your site has a high level of groundwater, then having concluded from everything written above, you can opt for several options:
- septic tank with biofilter;
A few general rules for sewerage in a private house
There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.
Residential building location:
- 50 m from aeration treatment plants;
- 300 m from drain wells and station;
- 25 m from the filter field;
- 8 m from the filter well.
Septic location:
- not less than 20-50 m from any water sources (well, well, pond);
- not less than 10 m from the garden.
Before proceeding with the installation of sewerage in a private house, you must make its project. You should not work without it, since sewage is such a system in which approximation is unacceptable. It is better to contact a design bureau or architects who will help create a quality project, taking into account the climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It's good if you do a sewerage project along with a house project even before construction.
All work on the installation of the sewer system is not difficult. You only need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For ground work, you need to hire an excavator, although you can do it yourself. The main thing is the development of the project and the correct choice of the sewerage system.
Connection to sewerage networks, what documents are required
Finished house plan. Mandatory, on paper, a diagram of the laying of a sewer pipeline must be presented. This process is carried out with the help of a company that conducts geodetic expertise.
All technical conditions for connecting sewerage. All these issues are considered by the organization.
The scheme on which the plan will be indicated, it is according to it that it is necessary to connect the sewer. This document must be provided by a specialist who designs and installs technical functions. It relies on the basis of the specification, thus producing a new plan.
The project, which is prepared in the water utility, with their approval. This process is carried out by architectural management.
It is also necessary to remember one main nuance. Before starting construction work, you must obtain permission from your neighboring residents. They are required to sign their consent. If additional questions arise regarding the pipeline that will pass through the places where other electrical or thermal networks have already been laid, then in this case, it is necessary to take another permit. It is necessary to require a special document in the organization. If the owner does not pursue certain requirements, he will have to pay a huge fine.
To lay the pipeline to the central highway, you need to take permission. If there is a well nearby. The pipe that will pass through the site to the well will be directed at a certain slope and angle. To determine the laying depth with accuracy, it is necessary to use the special values provided by the data in the SNiP.
There is also one main piece of advice to keep in mind. This question concerns the existence of existing curves on the track. As shown in practice, turns on the track should not exist, but if such a problem suddenly arises, then it is necessary to turn the highway a few degrees, about 90. It is also recommended to install an inspection well. Since, in this case, the well performs the function of control over this system.
A significant role is played by the correct selection of the height of the trench digging. Certain elements must be taken into account. The pipe diameter must be larger than the inner diameter. The usual size is up to 250 mm. Basically, pipes with a diameter of 150 to 250 mm are used. After the specialist decides on the size of the pipes, it is necessary to dig the bottom of the trench. As soon as the process is completed, the pillow can be provided for laying the pipeline.
Where to go for sewerage
water utility or garden partnership
First you need to contact the local administration, from there you will have to go to the geodetic service (order a situational plan for the site), to the water utility and SES. An application is submitted to the water utility in order to obtain technical conditions for connection. You need to have a copy of your passport and a document confirming the ownership of the house and land. If the pipeline has to be laid under the carriageway, a permit from the road authority will be required.
After the technical conditions are received, you can order a sewerage project. If it is created by third-party specialists, the finished document still needs to be approved by the water utility and companies whose communications take place near the house (gas service, RES, telephone service). The final approval takes place in the department of architecture of the local municipality.
For installation, you can also hire a contractor who has the appropriate approvals. But in any case, a tie-in to the general network is made by a specialist from a company servicing the municipal sewer system.
install an independent sewerage system.
Laying sewerage in a private house begins with the development of a project and estimate documentation.
Household sewer project
A domestic sewer project is a diagram that details where and how the main parts of the sewer network should be installed.
Private sewer network project
When designing domestic sewage, it is necessary to take into account:
the location of plumbing products inside the house. It is desirable that all sewer wiring in a private house be as close as possible to the previously installed central riser. This will avoid the use of additional equipment, significantly reduce the cost of purchasing and laying pipelines, reduce the risk of blockages and unpleasant odors;
Typical scheme of the internal sewer network
- sewer slope in a private house. If it is possible to build a gravity sewer system, it is not necessary to resort to a pressure type. Installing a sewer in a gravity-fed private house is much simpler and cheaper than a pressure one;
- sewerage depth in a private house. It is required that all pipelines and additional structures be reliably protected from freezing, which can lead to the complete incapacity of the system.
Basic rules for laying a sewer pipeline
Rain sewer project
The project of a private storm sewer, as well as a household one, includes the location of the main elements and recommendations for installing the system.
Typical design of a storm sewer system
For high-quality and uninterrupted operation of private sewage, it is better to develop all the necessary projects in cooperation with qualified specialists.
Installation steps
Gray pipes are used for internal sewage
You need to install a home sewer from its inside. In all rooms with sanitary equipment (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna), pipes are mounted towards the riser. The wiring is made from tubes with a diameter of 50 mm. A pipe with a cross section of 110 mm is connected to the toilet.
All joints, connections must be treated with sealant. In places of conclusions for household washing appliances, plugs are installed.
The riser is brought to the foundation, in which a hole with a diameter of 130-160 mm is pre-punched. A metal sleeve must be inserted into it. Through it, the collector pipe is taken out. The outlet of the outer pipe is qualitatively insulated, the gaps between the sleeve and the foundation are concreted.
External sewerage
Orange pipes are for external sewerage
Initially, you will have to dig trenches under the collector. They are dug from the very exit of the pipe from the house and up to the intended location of the septic tank. The depth of digging depends on the level of soil freezing in the region, as a rule, it is at least 70-90 cm. The upper edge of the laid pipe should be at this mark from the soil surface.
During the digging of trenches, the slope specified by SNiP is observed. The final receiver of wastewater should be located below the exit of the sewer pipe from the house. Then they work like this:
- A pillow of sand is poured at the bottom of the trenches and it is well rammed.
- Pipes are laid on the base, securely connecting them.
- The fully assembled system is checked for leaks. If there are no leaks, the water leaves the house freely, you can backfill the collector. At the same time, the soil is not heavily rammed. It will settle down on its own in time. If necessary, then pour more earth on top.
Septic tank device
At the final stage of work during the installation of a private sewer, you need to build a home-made septic tank. As the simplest option, you can use a tank in the form of a plastic barrel. Some build a sewage receiver from car tires, concrete rings. Plastic is easier to work with. The principle of installation of a two-chamber septic tank looks like this:
Pits are dug under the tanks in accordance with the parameters of the barrels. At the same time, the depth and width of the pit is increased by 30-40 cm under the base and backfill.
The bottom of the pit is carefully rammed. Pour a sand cushion of moistened sand. It is well sealed.
A wooden formwork is placed on the sand under the first chamber and a concrete solution 20-30 cm thick is poured.
The bottom of the second tank is made drainage. A layer of fine gravel is poured onto a pillow of sand, and broken brick or cobblestone is placed on top.
After the solution has dried, both tanks are placed next to each other.
It is important that there are no distortions.
Both chambers are connected by an overflow pipe at a level of 40 cm from the bottom of the barrels.
A drain/sewage pipe is connected to the first receiver in its upper part. All joints are well sealed.
The tanks are filled with water and only after that they are backfilled with thorough tamping of the soil.
If the barrels are not filled with water, they may subsequently burst in the soil.
The top of the septic tank chambers is covered with hatches.
Connecting the house to the sewer where to start
The sewer connection is divided into two types. They are separate and mixed. Separate is used in cases, storm and household connections. But mixed, it is used only with a mixed type pipeline.
It is worth noting that the developer himself finances the sewer input. This process is associated with large sums. But if the owner of the house does not have that kind of money, then there is an opportunity to save. In this case, you will have to upgrade the centralized branch. First of all, the owner is obliged to contact the water utility and offer his cooperation, that is, a certain fee for the work. If the institution confirms your application, then part of the amount of money will be paid by the organization itself. However, you can pay the money by agreement with the neighbors. If they are satisfied with this method, then it will be much easier for you to cope with the task.
Many people do not like to do troublesome business and prefer not to go to various institutions. There is an optimal solution. You can contact the company where they deal with these cases, provide all the documents and draw up an agreement. They will do everything for you. Just before you trust the company, you need to clarify whether they are ready to cope with the task. Do not forget that all services are quite expensive. Therefore, if you do not have sufficient funds, then you should not apply.
We connect the sewerage to a private house
Before starting the construction of their own residential building, each owner is always faced with a number of different problems. First of all, it is necessary to create the correct design of the object and subsequent installation work. If the residential area is located in an area where centralized communication networks have not been built, then you will have to take measures and build an autonomous version. Connecting an autonomous sewer type will require money and time. If the owner builds his house near centralized networks, then there is an excellent opportunity to connect the system to the city sewer. This is the most profitable option.
Designing and carrying out the necessary calculations
Before starting the construction of the system, you need to draw a preliminary scheme for installing the sewer. The drawing marks all the points of location of plumbing in the house and the location of the septic tank on the site. In addition, the diagram shows the place where the pipeline exits through the foundation into the ground under the first floor. All collector lines are applied to the drawing from each plumbing point and up to the entrance to the septic tank. Produce measurements of the length of each segment of the pipeline. Thanks to the measurements, the total amount of the required footage of external and internal pipes is obtained.
It is extremely important to mark on the drawing all the places of bends, connections, branches and turns of the collector. So the master will be able to purchase the required number of adapters, fittings, etc.
Stages of a sewerage device in a private house
If you would like to independently install the sewerage system in a private house by connecting to the central system, then the following steps should be taken:
- you need to use the services of a surveyor to draw up a situational plan for your site, including a plan for the house itself and marking the path along which the sewer line will be laid;
- file an application with the relevant organization for the development of technical conditions for wastewater disposal at your site;
- these technical specifications should be transferred to the design specialists who will develop a project for entry into the central sewerage system. The finished project must be submitted for approval to the architect and to the water utility service;
- the architect must issue a permit for the work to be carried out by a specific organization;
- it is also necessary to obtain the consent of your neighbors to carry out work near their homes to connect to the central sewer;
- if the destruction of the road surface is envisaged in the course of work (in the event the route passes through it), then it is necessary to obtain the appropriate permits from the traffic police, as well as from the road maintenance service;
- before putting the line into operation, it is necessary to warn the operating service of the water utility;
- upon completion of the sewerage installation, the operating organization must accept the finished project and sign an agreement with you regulating the acceptance of wastewater from you.
When laying sewer pipes, it should be remembered that the pipe should run at a depth of 1200 mm from the house, and the slope should be approximately 5 mm per linear meter.
Storm sewer - connection to the city storm network
Many owners of private cottages would like to divert rainwater from their plots together with domestic wastewater. Technically, this is completely simple, but directing rainwater into sewer wells is strictly prohibited.
This method can easily lead to the overflow of the well, due to which a large amount of sewage will come out. Therefore, in order to free the site from accumulated rainwater, it is necessary to carry out not only the installation of sewage in a private house, but also the connection to the central or city storm sewer. Since storm sewers have a much greater capacity, then rainwater flows will not create an excessive load for it. The rainwater pipe can lead directly to the collector.
Keep in mind that during heavy rains, water can go back through the sewer, so when connecting to the central storm sewer system, you must also install a return valve.
Installation of an autonomous storm sewer in a private house
The most practical way is to arrange a special pit with a reservoir for rainwater runoff in the area. A similar system can also be used as a local sewer for a summer residence. The reservoir is located in the soil, and therefore there is a natural cooling that prevents the growth of bacteria. Then a drain is laid, through which rainwater from the roof of the house will fall into the tank. It is also advisable to install a special grate that will work as a filter and keep leaves, branches and other debris out of the tank.
The water accumulated in the tank can then be used, for example, for irrigation.
Types of sewer systems for a private house
The easiest way to mount a plastic pipeline
Taking into account the fact that the pipeline will not be connected to the city's central highway, the owners of private plots are constructing one of the types of sewers near the house:
- A single-chamber septic tank is a cesspool with a sealed bottom and walls. Provided that the tank is completely filled, it is necessary to pump out sewage with sewage equipment. You can make a drainage / filtering bottom at a single-chamber septic tank. So the water will go into the ground. But here you should be careful: if the groundwater level is high in the area, there is a risk of contaminating nearby drinking wells. Such actions are punishable by law.
- Double septic tank. It consists of two adjacent reservoirs. The first has a larger volume than the second. The sewage flows through the collector to the main receiver, where they are settled. Large particles of garbage (faeces, paper) settle on the bottom. The clarified water is poured into the second tank and drains into the ground there. The bottom of the second drive is made of filter sand and gravel. To avoid its silting, it is better to change the embankment every 4-5 years. The first tank is cleaned every 1-2 years.
- Biological septic tank. Here, bacterial preparations are used to process sewage into organic matter - silt and water. Such a tank must be connected to electricity, since bacteria only work in conditions of positive temperature.
Independent sewerage device
For the internal system you need:
- pipeline
- riser and fan pipe
- revisions
- locking elements
- outlet (connection to an external system).
best place to stand
The first step is piping from each appliance to the riser. The diameter of the pipe at the bath, shower, sinks and sinks is 50 mm, at the toilet bowl - 100 mm. All plumbing fixtures have knees that prevent unpleasant “aromas” from the sewer from entering the premises. When installing and fixing the pipeline, it is necessary to take into account the slope (approximately 3 mm per meter). The riser is displayed above the ridge and covered with a grate. The opening for the outlet to the external pipeline should not be less than 30×30 cm.
The outer part of the sewer consists of:
- pipeline
- wells
- storage tank or septic tank.
A pipeline located above the freezing level is best installed from cast iron. The use of plastic materials is allowed when buried below the freezing level. In a system without a pump, the pipeline is laid with a slope
It is important that the sump or septic tank is located no closer than 5 m from a residential building and 20 m (at least) from a drinking water well. In addition, it is necessary to provide free access for the sewer truck
pipeline is installed and installed.
The size of the pit for the septic tank should be larger than the capacity (so that you can create a concrete pad at the bottom). In this case, the neck of the container at the end of the work should be located slightly above the ground level. The spaces between the septic tank and the walls of the pit are filled with a cement-sand mixture and compacted. After connecting the pipes to the septic tank and checking the tightness and functionality, all trenches are filled up.
It is more convenient to install a system for collecting melted and storm water separately. This will allow not to increase the volume of the septic tank. In addition, melt and rain water is much cleaner than domestic wastewater, so it can be used for technical needs (for example, irrigation).
First you need to make markings on the surface and dig trenches for outlets and pipes (taking into account the slope), as well as holes for storm water inlets. The trenches for the outlets are concreted, a sand cushion 10 cm thick is arranged at the bottom of the trenches for the pipes. Water collectors must be equipped with funnels that are closed with nets. All elements of the storm system are connected.
The cost of connecting the sewerage system of a private house to the public network depends on the cost of processing all the necessary documents, the amount of materials and their type, the cost of the installation contractor. Depending on the region, the total amount varies between 50-150 thousand rubles. The cost of an autonomous system can range from 500 thousand to 1.5 million rubles. To save money, you can build one system for several houses.
Types of sewerage for a private house
Any drainage system consists of two parts: internal and external. The first is designed to collect water from various plumbing fixtures. The second most often also consists of two parts: household and storm sewers. The first one removes excess water from the roofs of a residential building and other buildings, platforms and paths. The second collects wastewater from a residential building. It consists of:
- pipeline;
- pumps;
- filters;
- wells and drain pits;
- filter wells or septic tank.
gravity or forced circulation. depends on the power supply
The arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with a layout and a laying scheme. This allows you to most conveniently arrange all plumbing, make the right slope, accurately calculate all consumables.
As a result, the system will work smoothly, and in the event of a breakdown or clogging of one of the elements, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article, we will tell you how to properly draw up internal and external (external) sewerage schemes for a private house or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.
Charting starts from a distant plumbing fixture in the attic or top floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and consumables, bathrooms on different tiers are placed one vertically.
Sewerage in the house consists of:
- Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
- Drainage from all plumbing;
- Pipes leading drains to the external sewer;
- Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
- Clamps in the walls that support the pipes and give them direction and angle.
- Central stand.
It is important that the house does not have a transition from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.
Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of storeys of the building, the presence of a basement, the number of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and the connection to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device) also matters.
On the diagram All items must be displayed to scale. so that in the event of a scheduled repair or an emergency, you can quickly figure out the wiring and find a breakdown.
outer line
External sewerage starts from the pipeline from the foundation. Effluent is diverted to a septic tank, cesspool or filtering structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). Outside there is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood.
Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be mounted near windows, with access to the courtyard or near smokers. Categorically it must not be connected to a conventional ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).
Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks
The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for the intake of drains, autonomous installations are used.
- Cesspool. It is easy to organize on the site and is the cheapest option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of stocks. There is a possibility of dirt getting into the groundwater and an unpleasant smell.
- A do-it-yourself septic tank made of concrete-filled bricks or pre-cast concrete poles c. It performs its functions well, durable and strong. The disadvantages include a long installation time and serious construction costs.
- Industrial stand-alone installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered by the speed of construction, high quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
- Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. Differs in the highest degree of cleaning and big productivity.
Consumables, calculation and prices
Be sure to determine the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that 200 liters of water per day is used for each inhabitant of the house. Drains in the septic tank settle for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the sewage tank.
So, a family of 4 people consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, it is necessary to select a septic tank of just such a volume. If desired, you can make a small margin in case of a maximum load of the tank. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.
Main armature:
- Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
- Tees with a 45 or 90 degree flank.
- Elbow for connecting pipes with a height difference (450 rubles / pc.).
- Rectilinear double-sided clutch with rubber cuffs in the sockets (from 30 rubles).
- Revision (60 rubles)
- reductions of different parameters (from 40 rubles / piece)
- Hood umbrella (from 50 rubles)
Before you begin to equip the sewer system, you must carefully read the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell in a special review.
Water can be not only useful, but also harmful to the human body. Which coarse filter is best suited for a summer residence, find out from this.
Optimum inclination and depth of laying during construction
According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of laying. With a cross section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid clogging and “fatting” of the sewer in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.
When mounted on a land plot, the same angle of inclination is observed. A sleeve (a pipe of larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewer, and located 30 cm above the freezing level of the soil.
Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable- you will have to make a very deep septic tank. Subject to a constant slope, it will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost is increased by additional concrete rings and stronger (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.
The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or heating cable insulation can be used.
Selection of pipes and diameters
Pipes are used to drain waste from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.
Pipes can be used to organize a sewer system in a private house. cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.
Outdoor (PVC)
Designed for outdoor networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite being relatively cheap, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use both for external and hidden installation. For them, a connection by cold welding is recommended. All turns are made using fittings and bends.
Internal (polypropylene)
For internal communications, they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:
- Single or multilayer.
- The foam is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
- The connection is carried out by welding or using special fittings.
Rules for the device and laying of an external system
Briefly, the instruction on how to properly make a local autonomous sewage system in a private country house (dacha) with your own hands looks like this:
- Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
- Formation of a sand cushion.
- Layout of all constituent elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
- Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewerage. For greater reliability attachment points are treated with silicone sealant.
- Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
- Fill the trench, trying to compact the sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding a sharp load at a right angle. The thickness of the sand bed at least 15 cm.
For pipeline turns, fittings for external engineering networks are used. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the site with an intermediate revision well.
This video shows how to properly make a sewer for a private house, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:
How to properly sewer in a private house, do everything according to the scheme yourself and lay pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be better if follow a few guidelines:
When installing a sewer it is important to consider every nuance: the placement of plumbing, the relief of the site, the location of the intake manifold or septic tank, the depth of pipe laying and the angle of inclination.
Only with careful scheming, careful planning and order installing a sewerage system in a private house or in a country house with your own hands can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.
The phrase “conveniences on the street” can be heard less and less in the private sectors. This is not surprising - after all, everyone strives for comfort. However, it is out of the question if on a frosty night, waking up, you have to dress and run through the snow to a booth, standing 15 m from the dwelling. So home craftsmen equip latrines directly in the house. But in order for them to function normally, it is necessary to properly mount the sewage disposal system in a septic tank located on the street. Today we will consider how the sewerage system is installed in a private house with our own hands. We will also consider the scheme of its device, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.
Read in the article:
How to draw up a diagram of a sewerage device in a private house with your own hands
Starting to draw up a sewerage scheme for a private house, you need to decide on the number of drain points. It should be understood that if there are two floors in a residential building, the scheme of each is mounted, as planned, separately, with subsequent output to a common riser overlooking the septic tank.
The presence of only one riser is unacceptable only in the case of installing a pool or sauna - for them it will be necessary to mount a separate drain.
Important! From the completeness and correctness of the compiled sewerage scheme for a private house with your own hands, its performance and ease of installation will depend. The plan must indicate the length of all pipes - this will help to correctly calculate the amount of material.
Problems that may be encountered in design
The main difficulty in drawing up a project can be the introduction of a sewer pipe into the house. To do this, you will have to break through the foundation or install special pumps. Their installation will also be necessary when installing a bathroom in the basement or basement. At the same time, a special installation capable of grinding organic matter will not interfere. The sewage pump, together with the assembled knives, is called a multi-lift.
Expert opinion
Water supply and sewerage design engineer, LLC "ASP North-West"
Ask a specialist“If the house is under construction, then regardless of whether the toilet is planned inside the house or not, it is worth building a sewer pipe into the foundation. For starters, you can just turn it off. If you need to install a sewer, it will be very useful.”
When designing, the number of residents must be taken into account. This indicator will directly affect both the volume of the septic tank and the diameter of the sewer pipes that will be used during the installation of the system. Do not forget about the depth of soil freezing - the system must be in the ground below this mark.
What types of sewers exist
The main types can be called:
- Dry closets. This format is not very common in private homes. It is more suitable for giving, where there is no need for a constantly functioning sewer.
- Cesspool- the easiest to install and cost-effective option. Its inconvenience is that it requires periodic pumping using special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure.
- septic tank- the most common type of sewerage system. Waste products are processed using live bacteria and microorganisms, or by adding chemicals to the container that decompose organic waste.
The septic tank device cannot be called cheap, but it allows you to do without pumping for a long time. The main task is to add the necessary substances in time. As for the sewerage system itself for a private house, it will be the same for both the cesspool and the septic tank.
Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: a diagram and its main components
When drawing up a project for laying sewers in a private house, it should be noted on the diagram the location of plumbing devices, such as a sink or. All pipes are also taken into account (their length and diameter are prescribed in the plan), connections, corners and branches. Data are entered on the location of the riser and its output to the septic tank.
If you describe in detail all the parameters, you can mount the entire system much faster and better. The plan, after the installation of the sewer, must be saved. It can help with blockages or other emergency situations.
When drawing up a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house (as well as buildings with several floors), it is important to consider the installation sites for cleaning - special branches with plugs that will help get rid of blockages. Do not forget about the calculation of the slope of the highway. With a weak slope, the drain will be ineffective, and if it is excessive, grease and dirt will settle on the walls, which will eventually lead to an emergency. Let's try to figure out how to properly draw up a diagram of the sewer system.
Drawing up a scheme of the sewer system
The first thing to do is to draw a floor plan of all the premises of the building. It is more convenient if such schemes are available - quite often such schemes are drawn up during construction. In this case, it can be copied, and sewerage routes can already be “laid” along it. Having indicated the installation points of plumbing devices, we begin measurements. Every millimeter can play a role here.
Important! When installing thinner pipes (for example, from a sink), if they are longer than necessary, there is a danger of their curvature. In this case, the water will stagnate, which will lead to a build-up of grease and dirt and blockage.
If possible, all plumbing fixtures should be located in the immediate vicinity of the riser - this will allow sewerage to be performed with the greatest efficiency. All tie-ins in the riser are indicated. A prerequisite is the connection of the toilet drain directly to the main pipe, without additional connections. The drain of the bathroom and the sink can be combined - this will save material and get rid of extra pipes and tie-ins to the main riser.
What diameter should the pipes be
The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the number of residents and the planned intensity of use of the system. However, there are also generally accepted norms. So the diameter of the main riser directly to the septic tank is usually 100-110 mm. The same diameter as the toilet drain. But from the sinks and the bathroom there are thinner pipes. Most often, for such purposes, a diameter of 50 mm is used. This thickness will be enough.
All connections and tie-ins must be made at an angle of 450. If the angle of the sewer pipe is even, it is this point that will periodically become clogged.
When installing a sewer system, it should be understood that the riser must go to the roof, from where air will be supplied. Consider what happens if there is no air access, and the upper part of the riser is muffled, using the example of a two-story house. Everyone knows that the toilet has a hydraulic lock that prevents the smell from the system from entering the room. In the absence of free access to air, flush the water in the toilet on the first floor. Due to the rarefaction, water is “drawn out” from the plumbing device on the second floor. The hydraulic lock is open, all the smell from the sewer system rushes into the living quarters.
How can sewer efficiency be improved?
It is possible to improve the quality of autonomous sewerage both by installing additional equipment and purely by installation parameters. To do this, you just need to correctly distribute the slope of the highways. The most effective is a slope of 3 cm / m. But for greater efficiency of the sewer system, this parameter can be increased to 4-5 cm / m. This will be quite enough for the efficient operation of the system and not enough for the rapid formation of grease or dirt deposits on the inner walls of the pipes.
Modern tools are very effective in fighting deposits on the walls. But do not expect a miracle from them when a thorough blockage occurs. Advertisements may claim that the tool can easily cope with any of them, but this is not entirely true. In fact, such funds are good for periodic prevention. If the pipe is already thoroughly clogged, then there is nothing better than the good old cable.
Speaking of additional equipment, one cannot fail to note the benefit in preventing blockages of such equipment as a household waste shredder under the sink. It does not allow large cleanings and other debris to enter the sewer pipe. Everything that is sent to the drain after grinding, in consistency resembles a liquid porridge that is not capable of clogging the line.
How to make a sewer in a private house: stages of work
All work on the arrangement of the sewer system of a private house is carried out in several stages. There is no need to perform them without interruption, which means that installation can be carried out in your free time for a long time. However, according to professionals, such work is rarely delayed - as soon as the arrangement has begun, the home master tries to complete everything as soon as possible. Consider step by step the steps that need to be performed. The algorithm of actions should be like this:
- calculate the required volume of the septic tank;
- install and equip the tank;
- we lay the highway from the septic tank to the house;
- we make internal wiring of sewer pipes and connect them to the system;
- connect plumbing fixtures.
By following this procedure and simple rules for the production of work, you can be sure that the system will work flawlessly. Let's analyze each step in more detail.
How to calculate the required volume of a septic tank for a private house
The calculation can be made empirically: for this you need to sum up the entire water consumption of the family living in the house. However, if the sewerage system is installed at the stage of construction of the dwelling, this method is unacceptable. Then you can take the average values recommended by SanPiN. However, it is much easier to use the specially designed calculator below:
Sewerage in a private house is necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you bring there only the summer months. I will help you understand the basic schemes of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of work.
sewerage scheme
Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. You can use the street and garbage pit only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.
Before you make a sewer in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:
- Analysis of existing communications. If the settlement has a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.
To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.
- Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it rarely needs to be pumped out, a cesspool is the opposite. The optimal choice is a septic tank combined with a biological treatment plant, but high cost acts as a limiting factor.
- Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
- Room allocation. The sewerage of a private house should tie together all the water drain points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it near the outer wall, on the side of the house where the tank will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.
- Advance planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and evaluate whether the project will be “elevating”.
If the preliminary stage is completed successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.
Materials for creating an autonomous sewer
An independent sewerage device in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum material required for its implementation?
The main items of expenditure are reflected in the table:
| Illustration | Structural element |
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Ready septic.
The optimal solution for an autonomous sewer system is the installation of an industrial septic tank (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. Main disadvantage- high price. |
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Plastic container for a septic tank.
As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for waste accumulation. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". Plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices. |
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concrete rings.
If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, it is impossible to do without attracting a crane. |
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Pipes for external sewerage.
To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature extremes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laying at a depth. |
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Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage.
The internal sewer wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Together with pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings for making turns, bends, revisions, etc. |
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Pipe thermal insulation.
When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated premises (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is desirable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. |
In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:
- gravel and sand for excavation and laying of the drainage layer;
- cement mortar;
- sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
- revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.
outdoor work
Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank
Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:
- outdoor- consist in the construction of a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
- internal- involve the installation of pipe wiring in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.
If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.
The most effective design for autonomous sewerage of a private house is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but provides for their processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.
The septic tank works quite simply:
- settling. First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste occurs with the release of gaseous reaction products and the mineralization of residues.
- overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
- Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified effluents pass through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage retains another part of the pollution, because almost pure water enters the soil.
Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle - both home-made and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more efficient cleaning.
Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.
The calculation of the volume of a septic tank is carried out according to the formula:
V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, where
- V- the desired volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
- n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
- Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
- 3 - average duration of wastewater treatment, days.
If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people, the volume will be as follows:
V \u003d 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 \u003d 2.4 m3.
Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewer tank
Now let's figure out how to properly make a sewer in a private house. The algorithm of work on the installation of a septic tank in the table:
| Illustration | Stage of work |
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Digging a pit.
In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a pit for the installation of tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of backfill and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator. |
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Foundation preparation.
We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bed up to 20 cm thick. We ram the bed. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing cushion made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well. |
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Installation of containers.
We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to prevent the ingress of untreated drains into the ground. |
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Tank bottom device.
We make the lower part of the sump tight by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bituminous mastic and lay waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated blank made of reinforced concrete. |
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Overflow design.
We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. In order to prevent organic waste from getting into the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows you to make a selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed. |
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Cover and necklines.
Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair. |
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Ventilation and hatches.
We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - so the unpleasant smell will disappear faster. We cover wells or separately brought out necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, fixing them with cement mortar. |
If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is desirable to seal it from the outside using roofing material or bituminous mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks, the so-called clay castle, will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.
Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house
The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe connecting the tank to the house. Wastewater will flow through it to the treatment/storage facility.
Pipe laying technology:
| Illustration | Operation in progress |
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Digging and preparing trenches.
Between the house and the septic tank, we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient flow, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sandy bedding up to 15 cm at the bottom. We moisten the bedding and ram. |
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Pipe laying.
In the trench we lay a pipe for draining waste. The optimal pipe diameter for the outer part of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm. |
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Pipe insulation.
If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with roll material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter. |
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Entering a septic tank.
We can see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, we carefully seal the hole. |
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Entering the house.
The entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is desirable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated. |
After completing these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then we lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.
It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.
How to make sewer wiring
Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network
The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will describe its main elements:
- Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (minimum 110 mm), which combines all the circuits together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outlet sewer pipe.
- fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. It is discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to a ventilation pipe located above the roof level.
Without a drain pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the valves. In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.
- Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drain to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually made gravity-flowing (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimal slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
- supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be larger than the diameter of the line.
- Revisions- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet, equipped with a closing hatch. The audit is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline to remove blockages or preventive maintenance.
Stage 5. Pipe connection
All pipes are interconnected using fittings that allow you to make turns, branches, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is desirable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.
Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easy to assemble with your own hands :
| Illustration | Mounting operation |
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Pipe cutting.
Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the smooth end of the pipe to the desired size. |
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Chamfer removal.
We clean the trimming place, removing burrs from the outer inner side - they can cause blockage. |
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Trumpet preparation.
We insert a rubber sealing ring into the socket. We level the sealant, laying it in the groove and making sure that there are no bends or creases. |
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Pipe connection.
We insert the nozzle into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the outlet or revision hole is in the desired position. |
After assembly, all pipes are installed on bearing surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in strobes or behind the skin) and open gaskets. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.
Stage 6. Connecting to plumbing fixtures
At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:
- Toilet bowl- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected by a corrugation or a piece of pipe either with a riser outlet or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.
- Bathtub or shower- are connected to the sewerage by means of compact siphons which are placed under drain openings. The optimum diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.
Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.
- Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- are built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon is usually bulb-shaped and placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
- Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, it is necessary to install a separate outlet of the sewer pipe, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing cuff.
Conclusion
The installation technology of the sewage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly get acquainted with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you have in the comments to this material.