How to make a filling house. Pros and cons of frame houses

The construction of houses using frame technology is one of the promising areas of this industry. It is no secret that such construction of objects for some regions is considered a relatively new method, but has already managed to gain great popularity among developers.

The main advantages of frame house technology

The frame house belongs to the pre-fabricated lightweight structures.

The high strength of the building is ensured by a frame made of wood or metal profiles.

It consists of an upper and lower strapping, vertical wall posts, internal and external wall cladding, between which there is a laid heat-insulating, vapor-insulating and waterproofing material. The outer and inner surfaces of the house are revetted with finishing material.

Frame technology has a number of advantages over other methods of building construction that use brick, concrete, foam block, etc. for walls. Some of its advantages include economical consumption of materials, which significantly reduces the construction cost estimate.

The next positive aspect of the technology is the ability to erect a building with your own hands, since the main work (arrangement of a light foundation, simple cutting of beams and boards, cutting sheet material, installation of door and window blocks, installation of a roof) does not require high construction qualifications.

As for the operation of such houses, this technology practically does not shrink, and this greatly simplifies the construction of the facility and its subsequent operation. It is also less affected by various pests than log houses. In addition, the excellent thermal insulation properties of the walls can significantly save heat resources. Such a frame house heats up much faster and has a low humidity, which is the main advantage in choosing a technology for summer cottage construction for families who come on short visits and live in it periodically.

Today, the construction of frame houses has two technologies: frame-panel and frame-backfill.

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Construction of houses using frame-panel technology

The advantage of erecting objects using prefabricated wood panels on the face. In addition to the above advantages, the method also allows you to diversify the layout of the interior and facade of the house. The blocks used for the walls include wood, sheathed on both sides with unedged boards or fiberboard. The core of the panel consists of a vapor barrier layer and insulation.

With the development, many manufacturers switched to the production of fully finished panel panels (availability is about 75%), which at the construction site can only be connected to each other. Thanks to this, the terms for the construction of houses were reduced as much as possible, while the excellent operational characteristics of the house and the high quality of work were preserved.

Among themselves, panel boards differ not only in the outer cladding and types of insulation, but also in the way of connecting the wall elements with the frame. So, in the first method, the frame structure of the building is first mounted, on which the panels assembled at the factory are subsequently attached.

In the second case, the construction does not imply the device of the frame structure, since it is already embedded in the body of the panel board. In order to install such elements without their mutual movement, they must be installed on the beams of the lower strapping, the power circuit of which contains floor logs.

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Construction of houses using frame-filling technology

If it is not possible to build a house using frame-panel technology, then fill-type wall partitions are erected. In this case, the construction of an object at the construction site starts from scratch.

As a filler for the inter-wall space in frame houses, both plate and roll heat insulators can be used, as well as cheaper bulk materials: sawdust, peat, sunflower husk, moss, fleece, straw or reed cuttings. Before laying, loose insulation should be treated with an antiseptic: soak a mixture of 10% solution of iron or copper sulfate, and then dry thoroughly. Inorganic insulation materials can also be used: expanded perlite sand, pumice stone or slag.

The construction of houses using this technology begins from the inside. The cladding is made from the same material that is used in the manufacture of the wall panel. In this case, the same requirements for the vapor barrier layer remain. The installation of the material is carried out along the frame racks and up to the top of the wall.

The next stage in the construction of frame houses will be the installation of the material with the laying of a windproof layer from the outside. In the process of cladding, as it builds up, the inter-wall space should be gradually filled with the selected insulation. Insulation plate or roll type must be nailed, and loose every 200-300 mm tamp well.

The lower part of the wall must be carefully sheathed, avoiding cracks. Otherwise, rodents can enter from the underground. To enhance protection against them, a roofing material gasket is used and a careful adjustment of the sheathing of the material to the lower strapping of the frame structure. Do not forget about the upper part of the wall, since the places where the walls adjoin to the ceiling are quite vulnerable. In the case of using natural insulation, an antiseptic layer must be laid in the lower and upper parts of the wall. The final chord in the arrangement of bulk walls in frame houses will be the closure of the joints with strips.

In the process of building houses using frame technology, you may need:

Electric jigsaw.
Electric planer.
Drill with drills.
Circular Saw.
Construction pencil.
Plumb line and level.
Hammer.
Nail puller.
Chisel.
Screwdriver.
Nails.

In general, the construction of frame houses is a very real project for any craftsman with experience in carpentry. The only condition for the successful construction and further operation of the building is a thorough study of the properties and technical characteristics of the used wall panels and backfill insulation between the outer and inner surfaces of the walls.

Prefabricated frame houses are in high demand due to their low cost and accelerated installation technology. Obviously, these advantages are paid for by a wide list of design flaws, such as mechanical weakness and low service life. On the other hand, such projects are not always designed for durable use, but even in this case, not everyone is ready to put up with the shortcomings of a building that affects comfort. The technology of the frame-backfill house allows you to eliminate one of these disadvantages. We are talking about thermal insulation, and in some cases, strengthening the structure.

General information about backfill buildings

The technology is based on the principles of the Canadian prefabricated frame method for the construction of private houses. As a rule, these are one-story buildings of a small area. The construction process is carried out using a ready-made house kit, which includes all the necessary materials. The supporting structure is built according to the traditional scheme using frame posts. The fundamental difference between almost all frame houses is that walls and partitions do not perform the direct function of holding horizontal floors with the load imposed on them. They serve only as enclosing structures. In turn, the load-bearing function is separately transferred to the metal and reinforced concrete frames of the frame. Cladding can be made from a wide variety of materials from chipboard or OSB sheets to bricks and beams.

What is the filling structure? It differs from the usual frame construction by the approach to the device of thermal insulation. The fact is that the walls of the backfill houses have a cavity inside for filling. Actually, hence the name of the technology. If a standard frame house contains mineral wool with film vapor and waterproofing insulators in the wall structure, then sand (perlite), peat or sawdust plays the role of insulation in the backfill structures. It is tamped tightly so that no voids remain. The walls themselves are made with cladding made of boards or other panel materials used in frame-panel construction.

In general, we can conclude that a backfill building is a prefabricated structure that is erected from beginning to end on a construction site, has a system of bearing racks and provides for the laying of bulk insulation in the walls.

Requirements for materials for backfill construction

The basis of the frame is formed by wooden supporting structures, which must be made of coniferous sawn timber, dried in a dry room. For elements that will be located in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe foundation or basement (at a level below the surface of the earth or above it by less than 25 cm), they must also undergo antiseptic treatment. It protects wood from rotting and physical destruction.

According to SNiP 2.03.11., Facing, finishing, roofing, insulation, sealing and other building materials for a frame house must also comply with local conditions of use.

Environmental requirements are taken into account separately. This is one of the aspects that distinguish the frame-backfill house from conventional prefabricated panel buildings. It is the rejection of synthetic heat-insulating layers in favor of bulk fillers that leads to a higher environmental friendliness of the structure. Also, the standards approve the rules for the use of wood board materials, which should not contain toxic impurities like formaldehyde above 5 mg per 100 g. If they cannot be abandoned, then the material will have to undergo a preliminary detoxifying primer.

Often, asbestos-containing elements are also used in frame housing construction, in particular, for interior decoration of premises. During installation, such materials must either be faced with glazed tiles, or covered with waterproof paints and varnishes. Such treatment is required to protect against the effects of disinfectant solutions in household care.

Safety regulations

The peculiarities of the operation of prefabricated frame houses, among other things, are associated with the threats of fire and the low strength of structures. Both factors, respectively, determine the higher requirements for the prevention of similar threats.

As for fire safety, it is provided in two ways:

Replacement or complete rejection of flammable or at least flammable materials in the main structure. The same OSB sheathing burns out quickly, transferring the flame to the load-bearing panels and walls, if in principle they can burn. Particular attention is paid to insulators and heat-insulating filler. If chips or sawdust are used, then the sheathing must be non-combustible.
The second way to increase the fire safety of a filling house on a wooden base involves the creation of protective fire-resistant barriers. These can be special impregnations for the wood structure, and completely functional structural elements. For example, there are modifications of gypsum plasterboard and basalt wool, which do not support combustion and serve as full-fledged layers of internal cladding.

Rules for ensuring the mechanical strength of the house

According to experts, the mechanical strength of correctly erected frame houses allows them to serve for more than 50 years. Structural reliability is also maintained in a variety of ways. As noted, a lot will depend on the rack support system. These are vertical and horizontal elements that form power belts in the form of lower and upper straps. Also, jumpers are introduced into this system over the openings. The uprights should rest on the slab of each floor, distributing the load over the entire area.

They also reinforce the structure by incorporating materials that are stronger than wood. For example, there is the technology of a combined brick-backfill house, which uses one or more brickwork. Actually, the masonry acts as a bearing belt of the harness, which increases the load capacity of the base. But it is important to take into account that a brick with a monolithic structure will not allow for proper thermal insulation - moreover, cold bridges can form at the joints. An alternative option would be to use blocks of expanded polystyrene. These are modular hollow wall segments that can be filled with any bulk insulation material.

Installation of the foundation of a backfill house

The site for future construction is being cleared for a strip foundation. Debris, stones and vegetation are removed along with roots. If there is an anthill in the area of the site, the contaminated soil is replaced to a depth of 30 cm. The structure of the soil at the bottom of the pit must maintain an even geometry. If it is planned to lay communications, then the contours of the trench are filled with dense bulk material, which is then rammed and concreted. Next, the width of the walls is determined. It is possible to build a backfill house with external and 20-50 cm. The specific value is determined by the number of floors with ceilings. Accordingly, for a one-story house, walls are calculated with a thickness of 20-30 cm, and for a three-story house - about 50 cm.

For supporting columns, foundation soles are arranged. The step between them is calculated individually - depending on the number of floors, the structure of the supporting system and the nature of the groundwater. How to make a backfill house on a stepped foundation? Such structures are organized on slopes so that the length of the horizontal section is at least 60 cm. It is also possible to use a columnar foundation. In this case, the piles are located along the perimeter of the supporting frame with a step of 2-3.5 m.

Frame installation

The supporting structure is formed by pillars, columns and pilasters. The calculation of this system takes into account the loads on the floors, as well as external influences such as wind. Provide the backfill house with the strength elements of the frame should start from the basement. At the level of the basement floor, there are racks with internal walls, which in this case also perform a load-bearing function, supporting the first and most important floor.

The columns are anchored in the center of the foundation. The outer rods are additionally connected to the floors with anchor bolts. Usually, metal and reinforced concrete structures are used, but sometimes the introduction of wooden poles is also allowed. In such a system, it is important to provide for the insulation of the wood material from the concrete structure. This is done using plastic wrap. Metal pillars are indispensable elements of the supporting frame of two-story backfill houses. With your own hands, you can also make pillars of stone or brickwork. The standard parameters for such structures in width and depth look like this: 29x29 or 19x39 cm.

Pilasters can be used as an addition. They are arranged in basement walls, the thickness of which is no more than 14 cm. Pilasters are provided at reference points relative to the floor elements. Fastening is carried out along the entire height at the junctions with the walls of the basement.

Features of the device walls

For the walls, a structural strength base is also created in the form of vertical struts and horizontal support auxiliary nodes. Lintels are installed above the openings, and strapping belts are mounted throughout the entire supporting system from the columns - at least from above and below. The wall cladding of the backfill house is made of rigid sheet or plate material. The panels must be suitable for the loads from the own weight of the floors of the house and from the wind. If rigid sheathing is excluded, then additional reinforcement with diagonal braces or struts will be required.

It is advisable to fill the walls with insulation in a warm season, so that the risks of waterlogging of the material are initially minimized. During the filling process, it is important to exclude voids, openings, gaps and underfilled areas. Such defects affect not only thermal conductivity, but also structural integrity. Wall niches can be provided with sawdust, wood concrete, sand, expanded clay, etc. The cheapest and most practical option would be to set up a filling house from sawdust, which can be obtained free of charge and in the required volume at sawmills. Another thing is that preliminary processing of the material is also required. Experts recommend drying the sawdust well, compressing it, and also mixing it with cement, which will also eliminate the risks of waterlogging of the filler during the operation of the house. If the task is to increase the structural reliability of the walls, then it is better to use an adhesive binder instead of cement. It is advisable to choose compositions with antiseptic and refractory properties.

Exterior decoration of the house

Since the walls are mainly designed for the enclosing, and not for the power bearing function, it is important to initially provide a solid foundation for attaching the outdoor decorative material. As a rule, this function is performed by the lathing - a structure made of wooden planks and bars, which is mounted on the main wall cladding panel and serves to perform the subsequent fixation of the cladding. The following materials can be used as decoration:

Wooden plank. It can be wide strips, and lining with locking grooves. Reviews of backfill houses with this design emphasize the dignity of the natural texture, environmental friendliness and ease of installation. You can mount a board on a wooden crate with ordinary nails with putty and the introduction of biological treatment.
Siding. Also easy-to-install material, which is plastic, wood or metal panels. It is more practical to use aluminum sheets, which weigh a little and look quite presentable. The only drawback is associated with the fact that aluminum is easily deformed, but it is quite simple to restore it.
Block house. Imitation of the textured image of a classic log house on a metal base. In essence, a combination of siding and planks - semicircular sheets are fixed to the batten with hardware and interlocked with each other through a joint-groove connection.

Renovation work

Since the house is largely composed of natural wood components, there will be a periodical need to renovate areas that have been biodegradable. This mainly applies to wall cladding and internal insulation. How to restore the structure of an old backfill house? Damaged areas, provided there is a small affected area, are literally cut out with a chainsaw. During the cutting process, it is important to avoid damage to the columns and pillars associated with the wall structure. The embedded beam, board or slab material is replaced with new analogs with sealing. If the entire segment has been exposed to rot, it should be removed completely without separate cuts.

If there are signs of damage to the inner filler of the walls (rotting smell, emerging moisture, softening of the structure of the wall material), then the cladding does not have to be dismantled. The same sawdust is replaced with a new one, but first, all foci of decay or other lesions in the wall niche should be eliminated. In this part, the repair of the backfill house will consist in a major antiseptic treatment of the sheathing surfaces from the back side. By the way, for the initial exclusion of direct contact between the filler and the wall surfaces, you can put the material in thick plastic bags, and then place them tightly in the niche of the structure.

Technology advantages

As a type of frame construction, a house with free-flowing wall filler gives a lot of advantages in terms of organizing construction. They are expressed in optimizing work processes, making materials cheaper, increasing construction speed, etc. Even compared to traditional wooden houses, this method will have significant organizational advantages. Against the background of other frame structures, the pros and cons of a backfill house will also be very noticeable. Loose filler, unlike mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and other synthetic insulators, allows you to provide an environmentally friendly and cheap thermal barrier.

Disadvantages of technology

You should also start with the general features of frame houses, which also apply to backfill buildings. The disadvantages will include low reliability, limitations in the implementation of various add-ons and high fire safety requirements. Like the pluses of a backfill house, its minuses are largely determined by the technology of using bulk insulation. Organic fillers are more exposed to biological degradation, combustion and are often eaten by insects. In addition, they are fertile ground for the life of rodents, which can cause significant damage to the structure. Accordingly, additional requirements arise for the maintenance and maintenance of the structure of the house, which will provide for the need for regular fire retardant, disinfectant and biological surface treatment.

Conclusion

With all the limitations and disadvantages, backfill structures allow the construction of energy-efficient and comfortable modern housing in operation. For a relatively small amount, you can build a completely functional and durable filling house from sawdust in 1-2 floors. Another thing is that it will be necessary to maintain the named operational properties by special measures. They relate to the care of sensitive materials of construction, the main of which will be wood. Numerous impregnations, primers and paint coatings with protective qualities help to increase its working life.

The main advantage of timber frame walls over log walls is that they require less wood to produce. Frame houses are always warm, with good sound insulation, and most importantly, they are easy to build.

Basic elements of frame walls

The frame includes:

top harness;
bottom harness;
walls;
braces (struts) stiffness;
additional components such as intermediate ledgers and struts.

Door and window openings are constructed between the racks.

When building two-story houses, two main types of frames can be used:

With floor counters (when one house seems to be standing on top of another). This type of frame is easier to build as it allows the use of small material.
With end-to-end racks on two floors. This type of framework is more stable. Long material is used for it.

The supporting pillars of the frame are mounted in the interval of 0.5-1.5 m, focusing on the desired size of doors and windows. Ordinary frame racks are made from boards measuring 5x10 cm or 6x12 cm. Corner frame racks are made from composite boards or from beams.

The bottom rail serves as the base of the frame. It is made up of logs, planks or beams. The corners of the lower harness are made using the "half-wood straight lock" technique. If floor beams are cut into the harness, then it is made of two crowns. If the floor beams simply rest on the pillars, then the strapping is made from one crown. Usually, the frame elements are fixed with nails, sometimes spikes are used.

To make the frame more stable, plank struts are attached on both sides between the posts. They are cut flush using a frying pan or semi-frying pan strapping. On top of the racks, the upper strapping is fixed and the ceiling beams are cut into it. The top harness is best attached to straight studs. Next, rafters are placed on the beams. Sometimes log (cobbled) beams are replaced with boards (planks) with a section of 5x18 cm or 5x20 cm and placed on the edge. Outside, the assembled frame is sealed with wooden strips and nailed to the racks with nails measuring 7-7.5 cm. The thickness of the boards is 2-2.5 cm. They can be replaced with asbestos-cement slabs or any other durable and resistant to atmospheric precipitation materials.

Insulation of frame walls with backfills

Very often, to insulate a building, frame walls are constructed from planks. It is desirable that the walls are made of two planks. The gap between the walls is filled with different slab, bulk or roll materials. Roll and board materials are fixed to the frame with nails. The seams are hidden with gypsum solution or sealed with tow. If the slabs are laid in two layers, then make sure that the seams between the slabs of the first and second layers overlap. When stacked in one layer, the reed slabs must be placed vertically. When laying in two layers, the boards can be laid horizontally and vertically. To protect the slabs from decay and erosion by rodents, straw slabs should be soaked for 2 hours in a 10% solution of ferrous sulfate and dried well. To make the slabs less blown out, cardboard or thick construction paper is placed between them.

When the cold season comes, the air from the room can humidify the backfill, which is undesirable. Therefore, to protect the backfill, an insulating layer of roofing tar paper, roofing felt, glassine, or other insulating material is placed under the cladding on the inside of the wall. Before falling asleep, the materials are mixed with fluff lime. For the mixture, take 10% of the volume of the mixture for backfill or more (for example, 90% sawdust and 10% fluff lime) and alter everything well to a homogeneous consistency. Fluff lime is used so that rodents do not breed in the backfill. These materials are used dry.

All materials are poured in layers on a dry surface or wooden board and mixed with a shovel to evenly mix organic materials with fluff lime. The ready-made backfill is filled in the empty space, filling in layers of 20-30 cm and tamping well.

Used as backfill:

pumice;
slag;
peat;
sawdust;
fire;
sunflower husk;
chopped reed;
feathering;
straw.

The weight of a material will determine its thermal conductivity. The lighter it is, the worse it conducts heat. Here are the mass of some bulk solids:

dry moss - 135 kg per 1 m 3;
granulated blast-furnace slag - 700 kg per 1 m 3;
wood shavings - 300 kg per 1 m 3;
tripoli - 600 kg per 1 m 3;
straw chopping (cutting) - 120 kg per 1 m 3;
pumice - 500 kg per 1 m 3;
wood sawdust - 250 kg per 1 m 3;
boiler slag - 1000 kg per 1 m 3;
dry peat - 150 kg per 1 m 3.

Usually organic materials such as peat, sawdust, moss, straw chaff, fire are dried and disinfected.

Draft dry backfill

The main disadvantage of dry backfills is that they settle and form voids. Therefore, if they are used, then the walls are erected 20-30 cm above the level of the ceiling beams, completely filling with backfill. As it settles, the backfill will fill the empty space. It is better to replace the backfill under the windows with fibrous or tiled materials. If there are none, retractable window sills are mounted in order to fill up the backfill through them.

In order for the insulating backfill to become less free-flowing, materials should be mixed into it, which will turn it into a solid filler. For example, take 85% sawdust and mix it with 10% fluff lime and 5% gypsum. In this case, the sawdust will harden and turn into the so-called thermolite. For such a mixture, wet, not specially dried, organic materials or sawdust are used. Sawdust is mixed with fluff, then this mixture is added to gypsum and immediately laid out in place, leveling and compacting well. The moisture present in the filler will slightly moisten the gypsum and it will set. The aggregate will turn into a loose mass, thicken, and due to this it will not settle.

Wet backfills and slabs

Wet backfills are often used in construction. The main thing is to correctly observe the proportions of the materials used. Materials are taken by volumetric parts or by weight:

for 1 part of organic aggregate, take 0.4 parts of gypsum and 2 parts of water;
for 1 part of organic aggregate, take 0.3 parts of fluff lime or quicklime and 2 parts of water.

Fluff lime can be replaced with ground lime or lime dough. In this case, you need to take it 2 times more and reduce the amount of water.

Method of preparation of moistened backfills

In the interval, binder and organic fillers are covered with layers. Then everything is mixed well and water is added. After 3-5 weeks, the backfill in the structures dries out with light compaction and sediment. Drying time varies with air temperature. Such backfills should not be used in timber frame buildings together with vapor barrier materials (roofing felt, roofing felt, glassine, etc.). They dry out for a long time, and sometimes they cause the formation of fungus. As you know, the fungus is very harmful to wood.

Plates made from organic materials are considered to be of higher quality insulation. Their size should be 50x50 or 70x70 cm, and the thickness should be from 5 to 10 cm. The ratio of the components for their preparation:

1.5 parts of quicklime + 0.3 parts of cement + 2-2.5 parts of water;
or for 1 weight part of organic aggregate, take 4 parts of clay dough + 0.3 parts of cement + 2-2.5 parts of water;
or 1-2 parts of trefoil clay + at least 0.7 parts of quicklime (fluff is possible) + 2-3 parts of water;
or 1.5-2 parts of gypsum + 2-2.5 parts of water.

If lime dough is used, then the amount is doubled, and the amount of water is reduced.

First, dry materials are mixed, then moistened with water and mixed again until smooth. After that, the mixture is put into molds, leveled, the molds are removed and dried under a canopy or indoors. The drying time will depend on the temperature conditions and the binder used. Plates of gypsum, lime, tripoli dry 2-3 weeks, clay products - on average about 4-5 weeks.

Frame, frame-panel board, panel board and those walls that are assembled from elements manufactured at the factory are considered more economical.

A wooden frame is a kind of structure consisting of lower straps that are laid along the foundation. Elements of such a frame are connected with nails, bolts. If the frame is cobbled, then staples are used. The frame racks are sheathed with boards. The distance between the outer and inner lining is filled with a special insulating backfill, straw or reed mats, or other slab insulation. In factory-made frame buildings, the outside of the boarding is often covered with asbestos-cement sheathing.

Currently, frame houses are the most widespread. In them, the supporting base is a wooden frame assembled from racks, straps, beams and crossbars. It takes the weight of walls, floors and roofs.

In terms of the consumption of building materials and labor costs, frame houses are considered one of the most economical. Their other advantage is the ability to build with your own hands. The main work performed (laying a light foundation, cutting boards and beams, cutting sheet materials, installing window and door blocks, installing a roof) do not require special construction qualifications. In frame houses there are no heavy elements that require lifting equipment for installation.

In comparison with houses made of logs and beams, frame houses have a number of operational advantages. They are warmer because they do not have numerous grooves between the logs that require compaction. Even with careful caulking in log houses, it is not possible to achieve complete windproofness of walls and corners. The frame house does not give precipitation, and this greatly facilitates both construction and further operation. It is much less affected by grinders that settle in a bowl in logs and massive beams. Finally, such a house warms up faster when heated, has less humidity, which is important when homeowners come in only periodically on weekends. This is explained by the fact that it is necessary to heat only the thin inner lining of the premises, separated from the outer surface of the wall by an effective heat-insulating material. All this taken together attracts amateur builders to the construction of frame houses.

Depending on the design of the walls, frame houses are of two types: frame-panel and frame-backfill.

Frame-panel houses

In a frame-panel house, the walls are completely finished and finished panels (small-sized panels), made in advance, and only mounted on the construction site. They are usually collected in autumn and winter somewhere warm and under a roof. Made on a workbench according to a template, with high precision, careful laying of insulation, steam and wind insulation materials, neat outer and inner cladding, they allow you to quickly assemble a house with high quality construction. The dimension of the boards is usually chosen in length equal to the height of the wall, and in width, depending on the size of the available cladding material. It is necessary that the waste during cutting is minimal. Usually the module (width) of the panels is taken as 1.2 m, but some projects are designed for a module of greater or lesser dimension.

Frame-backfill houses

A frame-backfill house has walls that are assembled at the construction site from start to finish. First, the internal cladding is performed along the frame racks with the laying of a vapor barrier layer (glassine, polyethylene film), and then the external cladding is carried out along the windproof layer (cardboard, construction paper). The space inside the wall is filled with heat-insulating material. Bulk insulation (sawdust, peat, perlite sand) can also be used in the backfill walls. As the outer cladding grows, insulation is laid, moreover, it is free-flowing in order to avoid voids and precipitation is tamped tightly.

The frame design is determined by the type of walls that will be selected for the home. The wall panels assembled on the frame are capable of carrying the load by themselves. A frame-backfill house requires a more durable frame.

Installation of the frame of the filling house

Bottom strapping

Work begins with laying the lower strapping on the foundation. It can be made of round wood (podovarnik), hewn into 2 edging - with the bottom facing the foundation and the front sides. Better, of course, to use a timber with a section of 120x120 (150x150) mm, because it is more convenient to work with it. In the absence of logs and beams of the required section, the upper and lower straps (and other frame elements) can be successfully assembled from 40x120 mm boards, knocking them into beams.

The wood of the lower harness, operating in the most unfavorable conditions, must be antiseptic to protect it from decay. In the simplest case, it is impregnated with a 10% aqueous solution of copper or iron sulfate. Such impregnation does not clog pores, the wood can breathe. Often, novice builders make the mistake of treating the lower beams and logs with used machine oil or painting over with oil paint. This leads to decay of wood and the appearance of house fungus, because oil closes pores and prevents moisture from evaporating.

If the lower strapping is laid on a continuous strip foundation, then a strong dry board 40-50 mm thick, impregnated with hot bitumen, is laid between it and the beam. In turn, the board is separated from the foundation by waterproofing from 2 layers of roofing material. With a columnar foundation, a piece of the same board wrapped in 2 layers of roofing material is laid between the beam and the pillar.

At the corners, the beams are interconnected in half a tree. At least at 4 points, the strapping is fastened to the foundation using embedded metal anchors. Right angles in the plan are checked using a wire pulled along the diagonals of the strapping. Horizontalness is controlled by level.

Overlap of the first floor

After installing the lower trim on the foundation, they begin to lay the logs on which the floor will be laid. Lags are made from a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-120 mm wide. With a wall module of 1.2 m, the logs are placed with a step of 0.6 m, installing them on the edge. They are supported on posts made of asbestos-cement (100 mm in diameter) or scrap steel pipes. Wells are drilled under the pipes with a garden drill to a depth of about 1 m. Sections of pipes are lowered into them, which are filled with cement mortar. Then the pipes are slightly raised so that the solution passes to the bottom of the well and forms a support cushion. The height of the posts is controlled by a cord, they are installed at a distance of 1.2 m from each other. Bars wrapped in roofing felt are placed under the logs.

If the foundation is strip, then the ends of the lag rest on its inner edge, and the floor is laid in the same level with the strapping. With a columnar foundation, the logs can also be laid on the strapping, while the floor becomes 10 cm higher.

The use of logs or timber as a log allows you to put retaining posts less often. And flooring made of grooved boards with a thickness of 40 mm makes it possible to increase the distance between the logs up to 1 m. It is recommended to antisept the wood used for making the logs.

Vertical racks

Place them at a distance of 0.6 m from each other. Then every 3 racks form a 1.2 m module. In practice, the module is often chosen according to the width of the available windows. Based on this indicator, the strapping is broken down. Corner drains are made more powerful: from a hewn log, a bar or two boards 4050 mm thick, connected with nails by an angle or a beam. When installing, the drains are temporarily stitched with jibs to the strapping. Intermediate racks are made of a 40-50 mm thick board. Under and above the window block, above the door block, horizontal crossbars are placed from the same board. The ledger is supported by a short post. All racks are sewn to the harness with nails 120 mm long, and the logs and beams are fastened with staples.

The width of the racks is selected depending on the insulation used. If, for example, mineral wool boards with a thickness of 100 mm are used, then the racks should be taken with a width of 100 mm. It makes no sense to increase this size, because air voids will not improve thermal insulation, but an unpleasant prospect of insulation creeping and settling will appear. Loose insulation does not create such restrictions. Therefore, the width of the racks, as well as the strapping, is selected based on the width of the available lumber, but usually no more than 150 mm.

In the event that the outer and inner wall cladding will be made of boards, it is necessary to establish diagonal ties along the racks between the lower and upper straps. They protect the house from skewing under wind loads, uneven foundation settlements. So that the boards of wind ties do not interfere with filling with insulation, they are cut in perpendicular to the plane of the racks. If, however, sheet material (plywood, hard chipboard, asbestos-cement sheet) is used as at least one of the claddings, then the installation of wind ties is optional. Sheathing sheets nailed to the frame will give the house the necessary rigidity.

After all the racks are exposed and checked for a plumb line, the upper harness is mounted on them. It is performed from the same materials and using the same techniques as the lower one. It is fastened with racks with nails and staples.

Ceiling beams

The highest requirements are imposed on the strength of these parts of the frame. In the extreme case, the beam overlaps a span of up to 6 m without support.If an attic room is arranged at the top, then the loads become even greater.

For large spans, the beam should have its original curvature. Its convex side is turned upwards so that later, bending under load, it takes a horizontal position. Otherwise, the ceilings will have a sagging appearance. If there is an intermediate support, the beam, of course, should be placed flat. With a straight workpiece, the desired curvature is obtained by choosing the side facing down a few centimeters.

For spans of 3–4 m, beams made of boards 50 mm thick and 150–200 mm wide, laid with a pitch of 0.6 m, will give sufficient strength. For large spans, the boards are knocked together in half to increase the beam thickness to 100 mm. Corresponding diameters and cross-sections must also be used when using logs or beams. The ends of the beams are sawn off flush with the strapping, fastening is performed with nails 120 mm long.

Rafters

Now it remains to install the rafters. Hanging rafters allow you to use the entire space of the attic space. Round wood with a diameter of 120-140 mm, a board with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of 120-150 mm is taken as a material. The rafter beam can also be made from 2 boards of 30 mm sewn together.

Installation begins with the installation of end rafter pairs. At the junctions with the ceiling beams, cuts are arranged in the rafters. If the beams and rafters are made of boards, then their joints are reinforced with wooden or metal plates. They are nailed or bolted on the side. If it is made of round timber or a bar, then fasten it with staples. At the top, the rafters are connected in half a tree. Then a cord is pulled over the ridge.

The intermediate rafters are exposed in the same way. If a frequent or continuous sheathing will be laid under the roof, and the rafter legs are strong enough (round timber, double board), then the rafters can be placed in steps of 1.2 m.

To make the attic room higher, it is advisable to maximize the length of standard lumber, which is usually 6.5 m. For this, the lower end of the rafter leg is only slightly released beyond the wall line. The necessary overhang of the roof, which protects the walls from getting wet, is achieved by nailing to the ends of the stacks filly(pieces of boards to which the cornice is suspended).

Other frame assembly technology

You can also assemble the frame of the house using a different technology. First, the frame of each wall is mounted on a flat area, connecting the parts to each other, and then they are lifted and installed on the foundation. However, the weight of the structure is quite heavy, and several people will be required to install it in place.

Shield walls

The dimensions of the wall panel are selected based on the adopted module, which, in turn, is tied to the width of the window opening. In our case, a 1.2 m module was chosen, that is, a 6 m long wall will be made up of 5 panels, each 1.2 m wide. The height is usually taken equal to the full height of the wall - 2.4–2.5 m. Under the windows and shields of lower height and corresponding width are installed above the doors.

Wall panel frame with diagonal wind bracing

Shields are assembled on a large workbench. 4 slats are nailed to its surface, serving as templates. They ensure that the exact dimensions and angles are observed.

First, a frame of 2 vertical boards and 4 horizontal boards with a thickness of 30 mm and a width of 100-120 mm is hammered into the template on nails. If the outer and inner sheathing of the shield is made of boards, then a wind connection (stiffening brace) is cut diagonally into the frame. Walls strengthened in this way will not allow the house to skew from the wind pressure (especially with high roofs with mansards), as well as with uneven foundation settlements.

When making at least one of the skins from sheet material, wind ties are not needed.

A layer of vapor barrier material (glassine, plastic wrap) is laid on the frame. The purpose of the layer is to protect the insulation from moisture, water vapor tending from the house to the outside.

Normal air exchange in the room is due to ventilation, as well as through leaks in windows, doors and other structural elements.

Outer cladding with overlapping and quarter boards

On the vapor barrier, the boards of the inner lining are nailed - horizontally or vertically, depending on the available material and for interior design reasons. Sometimes the inner lining is made slightly protruding beyond the frame (20 mm on each side) in order to hide the frame post (its thickness is 40 mm) when installing the shield. However, this somewhat complicates the sealing of the joint between the shield and the post.

After installing the cladding, the frame is turned over (the wind connection is at the bottom) and its internal volume is filled with slab or roll insulation (glass wool, mineral wool, peat slabs, reeds). The insulation is laid tightly, without the slightest cracks, otherwise the walls will freeze in winter.

1 - shield frame; 2 - outer skin; 3 - wind-protective layer; 4 - insulation; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - inner lining

The next layer is laid on the insulation - windproof. It protects the walls from being blown out. Material - thick paper or thin cardboard. Finally, the outer sheathing boards are nailed on top. They are placed horizontally in a quarter or overlapping and must reliably protect the wall from getting wet even in case of oblique rain. The materials for the windbreak must be permeable to water vapor. This is necessary so that the insulation, which has gotten water, can dry out.

With vertical outer sheathing, the boards are released above and below the frame by 10-15 cm, so that they cover the upper and lower frame straps.

The above scheme for assembling wall panels is classic. One way or the other, they are made in the factory for prefabricated houses. In the given version, the outer and inner cladding is made of planks.

It is possible to reduce the cost of manufacturing panels by using fiberboard for the inner sheathing (under the wallpaper), and for the outer one - a flat asbestos-cement sheet, which is resistant to weathering, has a smooth surface, and is easy to paint.

Large-sized asbestos-cement sheets are produced with a length of 1200–3600 mm, a width of 800–1640 mm, and a thickness of 6–10 mm. They are fastened to the shield with a gap of 15–20 mm along a lattice of laths using screws protected from corrosion by zinc or painting. If these measures are not taken, the walls will be damaged by rusty streaks.

For cladding with thin sheet material (hardboard, plywood), a frame with a more frequent lattice is required. It can be assembled from 3 vertical boards and 4–6 horizontal boards. In general, both the module of the wall panel and the location of the frame boards must be selected taking into account the size of the materials available, so that cutting and waste are minimal.

1 - wall board; 2 - frame rack; 3 - cover strip; 4 - sealing gaskets; 5 - insulation; 6 - sheathing with asbestos-cement sheet

When installing wall panels, they are fastened to the frame elements on nails. Before installation, the shield frame from the outside around the entire perimeter is upholstered with some kind of soft and thin insulation. After tightening with nails, the gaskets are crumpled and reliably seal the cracks. Additionally, they can be smeared with putty and covered with a cover strip on top.

Backfill walls

1 - a frame of a wall panel with a wind connection; 2 - inner lining; 3 - vapor barrier; 4 - insulation; 5 - windproof layer; 6 - outer skin; 7 - cover strip

In the absence of an opportunity to conduct frame-panel construction, fill-type walls are erected. With this technology, all work is performed on the construction site. Backfill walls allow using not only slab and roll insulation, but also cheaper bulk insulation materials. Good results are obtained, for example, by the use of sawdust. Other local organic materials are also used: peat, moss, straw or reed cuttings, sunflower husks, hairs, fire. Before laying them in the walls, it is recommended to antisept them (by impregnation in a 10% solution of iron or copper sulfate) and dry them thoroughly.

For backfilling the walls, inorganic insulation is often used: slag, pumice, expanded perlite sand.

The construction of the wall begins with the inner cladding. It can be made of the same materials as the wall panel. The requirements for the vapor barrier device remain the same. The sheathing is led along the frame racks to the very top of the wall.

Then proceed to the outer cladding with the laying of the windproof layer. As it grows, the internal volume of the wall is filled with insulation. The slab and roll are nailed, and the bulk is carefully tamped in layers of 200-300 mm. If this is not done, the latter will eventually precipitate, and voids will form in the upper part of the wall. For control and filling, the top boards are removable. The same applies to the window opening. There is a removable window sill.

The sheathing of the lower part of the wall must be carried out carefully, avoiding the formation of cracks. Rodents can penetrate the walls through them from underground. Roofing material gaskets and a tight fit of the sheathing to the lower frame strapping and to the uprights serve as reliable protection against them. The same measures must be taken at the top, in the place where the wall adjoins the ceiling - in this way the mice also penetrate the walls and ceilings. In the case of using organic insulation, antiseptic layers are placed in the lower and upper part of the wall to protect against rodents.

After the completion of work on the device of the inner and outer skin, the joints are closed with strips.

When the whole house is built under ground level in whole or in part with an appropriate modern structure. The design of the dwelling center and courtyard can accommodate an underground home and still provide an open feel using modern photovoltaic systems.

Such a house is being built entirely underground on a flat site, and the main living quarters are surrounded by a central open courtyard. Windows and glass doors that sit on open walls overlooking the central area provide light, warmth, exterior and staircase access from ground level.

The design is visible from ground level and creates a private open space and provides good protection from winter winds. This design is ideal for construction sites in harsh areas.

Passive sunlight is likely to be received through windows as in an ordinary residential building, and the amount is thought out by the design.

Advantages and disadvantages

Loose types of insulation in the majority refer to environmentally friendly insulation (if natural materials were used in the production process). For example, perlite or perlite crushed stone is cast from glass of volcanic origin. Vermiculite is also of mineral origin - granules are formed during the heat treatment of certain rocks. Polystyrene (polymer insulation) does not have such characteristics - its granules, during long-term operation, begin to emit styrene into the environment.

The operational advantages of mineral insulation:

perfectly let steam through, not allowing the walls to get damp;
serve for a long time without loss of technical characteristics;
resistant to open fire - withstand temperatures from 1,000 degrees;
not interested in rodents and insects;
do not collapse under the influence of high humidity;
do not lose their shape - granules or crushed stone do not split over time.

The disadvantages include the need to build an additional partition (insulation is filled up between the facing material and the wall). As a result, it requires expansion.

Vermiculite

1. Experimental verification of the physical parameters of building materials

After conducting theoretical studies related to the topic of our work, we formulated the goal of our experimental work: to identify energetic beneficial materials.

Based on the purpose of the work, the tasks of the experiment were formulated:
1. Find out and classify the main building materials used in the construction of residential low-rise buildings.
2. Conduct an experimental study of the physical parameters of the selected materials.
3. Analyze the results.
4. Find the dependence of the amount of heat spent on heating the house on the physical parameters of building materials.

Hypothesis: based on the analysis of the values of thermal conductivity and heat capacity of materials, wood is the most optimal.
Experimental conditions: when conducting experiments, it is necessary to produce maximum thermal insulation of the system to reduce heat loss.
Devices and materials: kettle, water, electronic thermometer, stopwatch, scales, building materials, thermal insulation.

The research took place in several stages.
In study # 1, we examined all the building materials found. And we came to the conclusion that most often the materials presented in the table are used for the construction of low-rise houses in rural areas. Thermal characteristics were determined for each material.

Table 1. Thermal properties of materials

After analyzing all the materials, we chose those that can be tested at home.
Research No. 2 was devoted to determining the dependence of the thermal conductivity of a material on the type of substance. The experiment used: brick, wood and cinder block and building board. To determine the temperature, materials with holes were immersed in a container with water at a temperature of 90˚C, inside which were placed alcohol and electronic thermometers:

Rice. 1. Measurement of the heating temperature of the material with an alcohol thermometer

Rice. 2. Measurement of material heating temperature with a digital thermometer

After 15 minutes, measurements were made, the results of which are presented in the table.

Table 2. Heating temperature of materials

Diagram 1. Dependence of the heating temperature of a sample from different materials

From the presented data it is clearly seen that wood has the lowest thermal conductivity, then brick and cinder block are located, but the studied sample of the slab has a higher temperature value, which indicates the highest thermal conductivity among all the samples under study, since the slab contains iron reinforcement ...

In research No. 3, the calculation of the specific amount of heat required to heat the material. In the course of work, the material under study was placed in water to transfer the amount of heat. All samples were heated to temperatures of 50˚С. Then the material was transferred to a thermally insulated system, and the temperature was measured every 15 minutes:

Rice. 3. Measurement of material temperature in a thermally insulated system

The results are shown in Table 3.

Table 3. Dependence of the material cooling temperature on time

Diagram 2. Dependence of the cooling temperature of a sample from different materials over time

On the basis of the constructed diagram, we conclude that despite the fact that the thermal conductivity of wood has the minimum value of all the proposed materials, when using a sample of small volume, and when sawing a bar across the fiber, the cooling of the material occurs faster than others.

Let's calculate the amount of heat required to heat the material up to 50˚С:

So, according to the calculations obtained, it can be seen that in order to heat a house made of the materials we have chosen, more heat must be spent to heat a building made of reinforced concrete slabs, since with the same dimensions, the mass of the slab turns out to be the largest. It is also worth noting the high costs of heat for heating a house made of wood.

Analyzing together the data in diagram 2 and calculating the amount of heat, we came to the conclusion that it is efficient to make wooden houses from a bar with a diameter exceeding the diameter of a brick at least twice, and should be about 20 cm. Building a house from a bar of 10 * 10 cm is energy not effective.

For ceilings

Just like floors and walls, ceilings require insulation. The insulation materials discussed above may well be used in this case.

A more specific insulation is penoizol. In appearance, it somewhat resembles foam crumbs

This is where the similarity ends, if you do not take into account the characteristics of thermal conductivity.

Penoizol is absolutely non-flammable. Possesses high chemical and biological resistance. Rodents bypass him. For insulation of ceilings, it is good because it has a very low weight. Its density is from 5 to 75 kg / m³. Due to the low thermal conductivity, the thickness of the insulation layer is sufficient from 5 cm. During work, bulk material is used, in sheets and in liquid form.

Note: penoizol gives a slight shrinkage (0.1 - 5%). It is compensated when the work is done by professional craftsmen using modern equipment. Otherwise, cracking of the insulation is inevitable. (this applies to the use of a liquid fraction).

Considering bulk insulation for the ceiling, one cannot ignore such a widely used material as sawdust. as the cheapest material. As an independent insulation, their use is highly undesirable. The fact is that they are prone to decay due to moisture absorption.

They are also an excellent breeding ground for mice. Even if we do not take into account the fact that they are a fire hazardous material, it is not difficult to conclude that they are unsuitable. "Craftsmen" go to all sorts of tricks in order to somehow reduce these negative factors. For this, sawdust is mixed with expanded clay, lime, even broken glass and other building materials. Such measures somewhat improve the properties of the insulation, but not much.

As a conclusion, it should be noted that when insulating ceilings, the advantage is on the sidefillingheat insulating materials.

Construction of houses using frame-filling technology

Diagram of assembling a frame-panel house with your own hands.

Insulation scheme for a frame house.

In the process of building houses using frame technology, you may need:

Electric jigsaw.
Electric planer.
Drill with drills.
Circular Saw.
Construction pencil.
Plumb line and level.
Hammer.
Nail puller.
Chisel.
Screwdriver.
Nails.

The thickness of the frame walls specificity and composition

What is the structure of the wall of a frame dwelling?

Conventionally, you can imagine it like this:

Racks are vertical;
Horizontal straps;
Insulating material;
Interior and exterior finishing material.

It should be noted that regardless of the specific type of construction, the main structural principle for all walls is the same.

Thanks to him, the structure is reliable and durable, protected from wind and moisture, and has low heat transfer. Even in the harsh conditions of the northern climate, a house built using the aforementioned technology turns out to be warm, cozy and comfortable. At the same time, the thickness of wall insulation in different cases can be very different.

In frame construction, it is assumed the use of various technologies. Depending on the characteristics of each, different building and finishing materials are required. They are chosen not only taking into account the external attractiveness and aesthetics, but taking into account their working and operational qualities.

3Creating an Energy Efficient House Model

So, having analyzed all the results obtained during the experiment, we assume that a house made in accordance with the following requirements will be energy efficient:
1. From wood, the average diameter of the log should be at least 30-35 cm.
2. Made of bricks with the condition of using additional insulation made of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.
3. It is possible to build houses that are financially less costly - frame-insulated, since the thermal conductivity of the insulation is several times less than even wood, so in such a house you will not freeze even in severe frosts.

However, when building a house, it should be remembered that the outflow of heat is mainly not due to an incorrectly selected material, therefore, during construction, attention should be paid to the insulation of window openings, ceilings and foundations. ... When choosing building materials, we recommend refraining from using cinder blocks, since the thermal conductivity of such a material is quite high, and the harmful effects of the slag included in the composition are poorly understood and you probably do not know its origin

But foam blocks can be used, however, with additional strengthening of the frame of the house.

When choosing building materials, we recommend refraining from using cinder blocks, since the thermal conductivity of such a material is quite high, and the harmful effects of the slag included in the composition are poorly understood and you probably do not know its origin. But foam blocks can be used, however, with additional strengthening of the frame of the house.

And it is absolutely worth excluding the construction of a house from building reinforced concrete slabs, due to their high thermal conductivity and low moisture resistance. It will also be quite difficult to insulate a house made of such material.

Exterior decoration of the house

Since the walls are mainly designed for the enclosing, and not for the power bearing function, it is important to initially provide a solid foundation for attaching the outdoor decorative material. As a rule, this function is performed by the crate - a structure made of wooden planks and bars, which is mounted on the main wall cladding panel and serves to perform the subsequent fixation of the cladding

The following materials can be used as decoration:

Wooden plank. It can be wide strips, and lining with locking grooves. Reviews of backfill houses with this design emphasize the dignity of the natural texture, environmental friendliness and ease of installation. You can mount a board on a wooden crate with ordinary nails with putty and the introduction of biological treatment.
Siding. Also easy-to-install material, which is plastic, wood or metal panels. It is more practical to use aluminum sheets, which weigh a little and look quite presentable. The only drawback is associated with the fact that aluminum is easily deformed, but it is quite simple to restore it.
Block house. Imitation of the textured image of a classic log house on a metal base. In essence, a combination of siding and planks - semicircular sheets are fixed to the batten with hardware and interlocked with each other through a joint-groove connection.

Construction of houses using frame-panel technology

Diagram of the structure of the walls of a frame house.

Back to the table of contents

Backfill vermiculite

Heat-insulating backfill Vermiculite belongs to natural materials, since it is a mineral of the hydromica group that has been fired. Thermal conductivity depends on the size of the fractions. For backfill thermal insulation in civil engineering, expanded vermiculite of a coarse fraction up to 1 cm with a characteristic shine and scaly structure is used for mica. Firing allows to increase the volume of raw materials by 7-10 times, its bulk density is about 90 kg per cubic meter. The heat insulator layer does not cake, it easily gives off the absorbed moisture. It is used for insulation of ceilings, roofs, inter-wall space, backfilling of foam blocks.

The most positive moment in its environmental friendliness - when heated, Vermiculite does not emit toxins, has no smell. It is bio-resistant, fireproof, air permeability has a beneficial effect on the formation of the microclimate of rooms insulated with expanded expanded vermiculite. Vermiculite does not interfere with natural air circulation (not to be confused with drafts and convection). It is used as an additive in cement mortars, in finishing materials. The high cost does not always serve as a positive moment when choosing.

3. Thermal conductivity of the material

If there is a temperature difference inside the body, then the heat energy is transferred from the hotter part of it to the colder one. This type of heat transfer, due to thermal movements and collisions of molecules, is called thermal conductivity. So, when a steel rod is heated from one end in the flame of a gas burner, thermal energy is transferred along the rod, and the glow spreads to a certain distance from the heated end (with distance from the heating place, it is less and less intense). The rate of heat transfer due to thermal conductivity depends on the temperature gradient, i.e. the ratio of the temperature difference at the ends of the rod to the distance between them. It also depends on the cross-sectional area of the bar and the thermal conductivity of the material. The relationship between these quantities was derived by the French mathematician J. Fourier.

For a building in winter conditions, the latter values are practically constant, and therefore, in order to maintain the required temperature in the room, it remains to reduce the thermal conductivity of the walls, i.e. improve their thermal insulation.

1. Tree

In Russia, wood has long been used for construction. It is great for all climates. And today, this traditional material is often used in the construction of beautiful and warm houses. Its special properties make it possible to achieve a high level of comfort in rooms.

Our ancestors were very careful about the choice and preparation of timber for felling. Timber was usually harvested in winter or early spring, "while the tree is sleeping and the excess water has gone into the ground." The wood was taken out of the forest and immediately cleared of bark. It is known that freshly cut wood in winter has a moisture content of 30%. But for the manufacture of a log house, dried wood (18–20 percent moisture content) is suitable. To obtain such wood, it was kept under a canopy. The logs were stacked on pads to provide through ventilation. Bark, sawdust and other waste were burned to protect the harvested logs from the wood-eating beetle.

In wooden houses, there is no problem of an overly dry, overly carbonated atmosphere in rooms. In wooden houses, the optimal humidity and composition of the atmosphere in the living quarters are maintained due to the natural air exchange of the tree. Wood has excellent thermal insulation properties, which are an order of magnitude higher than that of the notorious brick. By and large, wood has only one serious drawback - comparative fragility. In addition, wood cannot withstand fire, damage from various insects and putrefactive decomposition.

The advantages of wood can be written down: its relatively low weight. How you can save on laying the foundation. The wood is frost-resistant, which makes it possible to carry out construction and repair work in the winter. Wood has a low single background radiation. In wooden houses, it is not even necessary to carry out additional finishing of the inner surface of the walls. You can only limit yourself to varnishing and sanding. Since wood has a low thermal conductivity, the thickness of the walls of the cottage can be made as low as possible in the given climatic conditions. And, of course, the wooden house has a wonderful appearance. There are many possible architectural options for timber structures.

The disadvantages of wood include: high fire hazard, shrinkage, exposure to atmospheric influences, pest damage, comparative fragility.

Frame wall thickness - characteristics

The construction of private residential cottages on the basis of a frame is an excellent option for acquiring comfortable and at the same time economical housing. Timber frame walls perfectly retain heat indoors, even with a large temperature difference inside and outside the house. To ensure good thermal insulation, the decisive importance is not so much the thickness of the wall structure as the quality and reliability of the insulation. In addition, this indicator directly depends on the assembly technology and the features of a particular design.

Thickness of timber frame walls (frame-panel)

Frame-panel houses are one of the most popular types of buildings in this direction. They are economical, easy to install and have excellent performance characteristics. Construction using this technology is actively used not only for summer cottages, but also for permanent residence. In the latter case, the optimal thickness of the walls of the frame house should be approximately 140-150 mm, the main part of the structure being the insulation. Modern materials used for insulation make cottages on the basis of a frame, in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, equivalent to brickwork two meters long.

The thickness of the frame walls (frame sheathing)

The frame-sheathing technology involves the use of the frame itself, which is sheathed on both sides with boards of 2.5 cm. From the inside, the structure is filled with non-combustible insulation, and the outside is sheathed. On the inside, drywall is usually used, as it opens up more possibilities for further interior decoration. Outside, the house can be sheathed with different materials: siding, block house, imitation of timber. Thus, the thickness of the walls is formed in the aggregate of several materials: boards, a layer of insulation and decoration.

The thickness of the frame walls (frame-backfill)

The use of frame-filling technology is suitable both for the construction of utility facilities and for residential buildings. The wooden frame is sheathed with slabs or boards on both sides. Bulk materials are used as insulation: slag, expanded clay, sawdust, etc. Since these materials tend to cake and form voids over time, they must be carefully tamped down even at the construction stage. As a result, the thickness of the walls of the frame house ranges from 150 to 200 mm. The choice of the optimal indicator, first of all, depends on the characteristics of climatic conditions and the quality of the insulation.

Foam glass backfill insulation

Foam glass. As a backfill insulation, it can be of several types and this is due to the different technology of its manufacture. It:

filing of a foam glass plate;
foam glass crushed stone obtained by foaming the massif and rapid cooling. This leads to destruction, additional mechanical crushing gives crushed stone at the exit without an outer melted layer;
granulated foam glass, which has found wide application in the construction market, as an independent backfill, and as a basis for heat-insulating plasters.

Granulated foam glass is obtained from foamed raw granules. Basically it is glass foam with a melted outer surface. The porous structure with a melted surface gives unique properties to inorganic insulation. It is tough, with high compressive strength, waterproof, and is not subject to chemical and bacteriological degradation. Eco-friendly. Virtually no temperature limits during operation (from -200 to + 500 ° C.). Perfect for arranging and insulating inverted roofs, warming basements, foundations, since it is not afraid of external and groundwater. Reuse and multiple use is possible, the thermal conductivity coefficient remains unchanged (0.05-0.07 W / (m · ° C)). It can be used as a backfill insulation in ceilings and walls. But this is not a budget option.

Advantages and disadvantages

As with any home design, underground homes have advantages and disadvantages.

On the other hand, a sheltered home is less susceptible to extreme outdoor temperatures than a normal home. Underground homes also require less outside maintenance, and the land surrounding the home provides soundproofing. In addition, the plans of most earthen houses "merge" the building into the landscape more harmoniously than usual. Finally, underground homes can be cheaper to operate because they offer additional protection against high winds, storms, and natural disasters such as tornadoes and hurricanes.

The main disadvantages of underground homes are the initial construction costs, which can be up to 20% higher than conventional ones, and the increased level of professionalism required to prevent moisture problems during design and construction.

Requirements for materials for backfill construction

According to SNiP 2.03.11., Facing, finishing, roofing, insulation, sealing and other building materials for a frame house must also comply with local conditions of use.

The use of bulk insulation

Thermal insulation of building structures with bulk materials is carried out after the installation of steam and waterproofing. Bulk insulation for interfloor floors is tamped (except for ecowool), for them it is necessary to provide for the impossibility of spilling through cracks and cracks. To save heat in houses built of different materials, appropriate insulation should be used, therefore, different materials are used for stone and wooden buildings.

The best option for insulating wooden buildings is ecowool, which ensures absolute filling of volumes without the formation of cavities and seams, and also excludes the occurrence of cold bridges and associated losses of internal heat. Its cellulose base is related to wood, so the use of ecowool in squared, log and frame buildings is even more justified.

Abroad, the material is known under the following names: Ecowool, Isofloc, Ecovilla, Termex, Termofloc. In our country, not far from St. Petersburg, a special plant has been built for the production of ecowool from newspaper waste paper.

The Teploservis company effectively performs suburban wooden buildings, taking into account the peculiarities of their construction and various construction projects.

Cellulose insulation ecowool

Ecowool filling is recommended as an excellent insulation and sound-insulating material for any structures. But having a wood base - recycled cellulose treated with borates, it is ideal for wooden structures, since it has 100% compatibility of characteristics with wood. This avoids many of the incompatibility problems of the contacting materials. It is widely used in low-rise frame construction as a backfill heat insulator for walls, roofs and ceilings. Environmentally friendly material, does not rot, resists fire. Ecowool is the right insulation for naturally ventilated houses... no risk of exposure to volatile toxins. Removes the issue of the appearance of rodent populations in the overlap. Along with the advantages, filling ecowool has disadvantages. Manual laying is a very laborious process, in which it is difficult to adhere to the recommended density. It is "dusty" because it has the fibrous structure of wood down. In the cost of insulating a house with ecowool, it is advisable to include the service of installing the layer in a mechanized way (under measured pressure and using a blowing machine). But insulation with ecowool is produced once, it does not reduce its thermal insulation properties under the influence of time and external factors for the entire life of the house.

Teploservice SPb provides services for the supply and installation of ecowool in St. Petersburg. Any consultations are possible by phone and in the form of feedback in the section Contacts .

Shield walls

Wall panel frame with diagonal wind bracing

Shields are assembled on a large workbench. 4 slats are nailed to its surface, serving as templates. They ensure that the exact dimensions and angles are observed.

When making at least one of the skins from sheet material, wind ties are not needed.

Normal air exchange in the room is due to ventilation, as well as through leaks in windows, doors and other structural elements.

Outer cladding with overlapping and quarter boards

Wall shield:
1 - shield frame; 2 - outer skin; 3 - wind-protective layer; 4 - insulation; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - inner lining

With vertical outer sheathing, the boards are released above and below the frame by 10-15 cm, so that they cover the upper and lower frame straps.

Docking of two shields:
1 - wall board; 2 - frame rack; 3 - cover strip; 4 - sealing gaskets; 5 - insulation; 6 - sheathing with asbestos-cement sheet

Features of the device walls

It is advisable to fill the walls with insulation in a warm season, so that the risks of waterlogging of the material are initially minimized

During the filling process, it is important to exclude voids, openings, gaps and underfilled areas. Such defects affect not only thermal conductivity, but also structural integrity.

Wall niches can be provided with sawdust, wood concrete, sand, expanded clay, etc. The cheapest and most practical option would be to set up a filling house from sawdust, which can be obtained free of charge and in the required volume at sawmills. Another thing is that preliminary processing of the material is also required. Experts recommend drying the sawdust well, compressing it, and also mixing it with cement, which will also eliminate the risks of waterlogging of the filler during the operation of the house. If the task is to increase the structural reliability of the walls, then it is better to use an adhesive binder instead of cement. It is advisable to choose compositions with antiseptic and refractory properties.

Filling mineral wool

The raw material for mineral wool is a number of rocks, metallurgy slags, quartz (fiberglass). Slag mineral wool is inferior in quality and characteristics to a heat insulator made from molten rocks. Since mineral wool fibers affect the mucous membranes and respiratory tract, the production process does not always stop at the receipt of the fibers and their deposition. Cotton wool is either glued with glue based on polymer resins (plates, roll insulation) or mechanically granulated. Filled mineral wool includes both fibers and granules. Loose rock wool is not always suitable for insulation, as compaction breaks the fiber structure and there is a risk of shrinkage. And it is difficult to work with it, protective measures are needed for the skin and respiratory tract. Granular mineral wool is recommended as an effective insulation of technological equipment, chimneys, it is resistant to high temperatures (resistance threshold 1090 ° C), is non-flammable and has less weight in volume (250kg / 1m3) than loose. The pellet size is usually 10-15mm. Minerals are not characterized by bio-degradation, therefore, mineral wool does not rot, it has good vapor permeability, but when it gets wet, its thermal insulation properties decrease. Mineral wool is hard to dry.

Technology advantages

Insulation of walls and ceilings

To keep the house warm and comfortable, it is necessary to insulate the outer walls. For this purpose, foam glass can be used, a granular eco-friendly material obtained from raw fractions by foaming. Such insulation for walls is chemically resistant and can be the basis of insulating plaster. Foam glass is ideal for warming basement walls and foundations, as it is not afraid of groundwater.

A granule made of foamed polymers is the basis of polystyrene foam, a lightweight and moisture-resistant heat-insulating material. Such a heat insulator does not have a very wide operating temperature range, therefore it is not recommended to use it for. Frame walls can be easily filled with Penoplex. In this case, the granules fill the smallest voids.

Mineral walls can be used not only in the form of usual slabs or rolls, but also in the form of granules larger than 10 mm. Such bulk insulation is vapor-permeable and fire-resistant, not afraid of high temperatures. In addition to thermal insulation properties, granulated mineral wool has good sound insulation properties. When laying mineral wool, it is necessary to provide protection for the skin and respiratory tract.

Mineral wool for wall insulation can be used not only in the form of usual slabs or rolls, but also in the form of granules larger than 10 mm.

To preserve heat in the premises, thermal insulation of the ceiling is often performed. Recently, penoizol has gained popularity, which outwardly resembles foam crumbs. This lightweight, low-density material is highly bio-resistant. In such an insulating layer, rodents and mold will not start.

When choosing heat-insulating bulk materials, one should pay attention to such characteristics as thermal conductivity, density, moisture absorption, weight and size of the fraction. Most of the bulk insulation can be delivered and installed independently, which will significantly reduce the cost of insulation work, which is especially important for owners of summer cottages and small country houses

Bulk

Bulk houses can be built partly below ground level to cover more of the building wall. The construction involves covering the sides and sometimes a roof with earth to protect and insulate the bulk house.

The open front of the house, usually facing south, allows the sun to illuminate and heat the interior. The floor plan is designed so that common areas and bedrooms share light and warmth with a southern exposure.

This may be the least expensive and easiest way to build an earth sheltered structure. Strategically located skylights can provide adequate ventilation and daylight in the northern parts of an earthen house.

In a penetrating bulk design, earth covers the entire home except where there are windows and doors. Bulk houses are usually built at ground level, around and on top of it. This design allows cross ventilation access to natural light from more than one side of the house. will give the desired amount of heat and other resources in general.

Perhaps in the future, people will live in underground cities.

If we recall the science fiction novel "The First Men on the Moon" by the famous English writer Herbert Wells, then the local inhabitants of the Selenites, who lived in the "sublunary caves", created a whole highly organized civilization with a complex society and division of labor. At the same time, they did not understand what war and violence were, but earthly people seemed to them enjoying war and alien moral values. Perhaps people will soon live underground, creating a society of the future.

What to consider when building an underground house

About the most specific factors for the design of an earth-protected house.

Before deciding to design and build a secure, energy efficient underground home, you will need to consider the climate, topography, soil and water table.

Climate

Research shows that sheltered homes are more cost effective in climates that have significant temperature fluctuations and low humidity, such as rocky areas and black earth plains.

The temperature of the earth changes more slowly than the air temperature in our areas, and can absorb extreme heat in hot weather or insulate an underground house to keep warm in cold weather.

Relief and microclimate

The topography and microclimate of a site determines how easily a building can be surrounded by land. A modest slope requires more excavation than a steep one, and a flat site is the most demanding, requiring extensive excavation. The south-facing slope in the region with mild to long winters is ideal for a sheltered building.

South-facing windows can let in sunlight for direct heating while the rest of the house returns to the slope. In regions with mild winters and hot summers, a north slope may be ideal. Careful planning by the designer will bring out the full benefit of the conditions in a given location.

The soil

Another critical point is the type of soil on the site. Grainy soils such as sand and gravel are best suited for the construction of these houses. These soils are compact, well cultivated with construction materials and permeable enough to allow water to drain quickly. The poorest soils are knocked down like clay, which can expand when wet and have poor permeability.

Professional soil tests can determine the bearing capacity of the soil on the site. Soil radon levels are another factor to consider when building an underground home, because high radon concentrations can be dangerous. However, there are methods to reduce the accumulation of radon in both conventional and earth-sheltered dwellings.

Radon is a chemically inert natural radioactive gas, odorless, colorless and tasteless. Radon is formed by the natural decay of uranium from rocks and soil.

Ground water level

The groundwater level at the construction site is also important. Natural drainage away from the building is the best way to avoid water pressure against underground walls. An installed wastewater collection system is required, which must be designed when laying the structure of the future building.

Rules for ensuring the mechanical strength of the house

But it is important to take into account that a brick with a monolithic structure will not allow for proper thermal insulation - moreover, cold bridges can form at the joints. An alternative option would be to use blocks of expanded polystyrene

These are modular hollow wall segments that can be filled with any bulk insulation material.

Frame walls the importance of calculations

Summer house

It is important to know exactly for what specific purposes the structure is being built. ... Maybe this is a neat country house exclusively for summer living.

Then the requirements for it will be peculiar, its walls may well be lightweight.

Maybe this is a neat country house exclusively for summer living. Then the requirements for it will be peculiar, its walls may well be lightweight.

If it is a solid structure, then the size and thickness of the walls are calculated in accordance with the bearing load of the frame.

If a solid building is planned for year-round living, or a two-story cottage, or a house with an attic, then in addition to strength qualities, it is necessary to take into account the mandatory need for insulation. In this case, the thickness of the walls will depend on the massiveness and size of the timber, and on the thickness of the insulation used.

How to correctly determine the thickness of the walls of the future structure? The calculations necessarily take into account such an indicator as the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the materials used.

There is another interesting design option for a frame house - using Canadian technology. Its meaning lies in the fact that for the construction of such buildings, industrially manufactured sip panels are used. When using this technology, the thickness of the load-bearing walls will be determined by the size of the finished panels themselves.

Each frame structure is based on a well-thought-out engineering calculation, on the basis of which a specific device is determined, and the material from which it will be made.

Backfilling process and its features

Thickness table for temperature conditions:

For backfill, there are the following recommendations. Firstly, bulk material settles over time, so it needs to be tamped well. It is advisable to use boiler slag and expanded clay in regions where temperatures do not drop below -20 ° C in winter. Insulation of pitched roofs with expanded clay and similar compounds is carried out outside, after laying the vapor barrier. Along the slope between the rafters, transverse stops are installed - they evenly distribute the insulation.

After laying on the floor or in the basement, it is well rammed to prevent shrinkage and deformation of the finish. The only problem is moisture ingress, bulk insulation is quite hygroscopic. In baths and saunas, and, incidentally, everywhere, the insulation layer must have high-quality hydro and vapor barrier. It is necessary to ensure that there are no cracks in the decoration, and bulk material does not wake up through them. It is also worth remembering that expanded clay is quite heavy. It is necessary to ensure that with its mass it does not burst too weak partitions or walls.

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