Those who are engaged in the improvement of acoustics are like motorists who invest in their "nines" the amount sufficient to buy a good foreign car. Let's share some fairly simple speaker customization techniques that allow you to achieve a significant increase in sound quality at a low price.
Before tinkering with the speaker systems, see what your analog source will be. Integrated codec? Sound card SB Live? If so, then keep in mind: the sound really good quality you won't get it as the sound card (codec) will distort it a lot. Of course, you will notice an increase in quality, but there will be little joy from this. The ideal varant will of course be external CD - players, DVD - player and so on. If you are concerned about good sound, try to find something from this list.
Find out as much as you can about your speaker system before you start tweaking it. Depending on what it is initially, you can achieve more or less quality gain from it.
What to refine?
It makes sense to refine the acoustics that initially had some kind of potential. The "average" acoustics have the greatest potential for improvement - the one that is in the middle price category and has a sound quality that can be called decent. High-quality systems, as a rule, are almost pointless to modify - replacing or changing the properties of one component will require replacing all the others. That is, with the same success, you can immediately assemble new acoustics from scratch. However, there are a few things that can be improved in them; quality, of course, will not increase at times, but you can get a noticeable increase. The best option for revision is domestic production acoustics Soviet Union and its republics. The middle ones are of the greatest interest from the point of view of refinement (it makes no sense to list such systems, since their great amount).
Column refinement
The most difficult thing remains - to modify the columns. It makes sense to refine the filter only in the very simple form - to replace standard elements with better quality ones of the same denominations. If electrolytic capacitors are installed in the filter, they can be exchanged for film, metal-film or metal-paper ones. Coils made of thin wire and with a metal core can be replaced with similar ones, but without a core and wound with thick copper wire (with a cross section of approximately 1 mm2). With this approach, you can achieve a good increase in quality with little blood. It may be worth replacing the standard wires from the amplifier to the speakers (as well as those running inside the speaker enclosures) with thick copper wires (special speaker cables can be used).
For small acoustics, cables with a cross section of about 1-1.5 mm will be quite enough (most likely, the terminals will also need to be changed - do not forget to seal the speaker cases), for large ones, at least 2.5 mm2. True, there is a risk that the remaining components will not allow you to get an increase in sound quality from replacing wires and terminals, or it will be very small. Unfortunately, this can only be verified empirically.
Chassis modification
In addition to refinement electrical circuit it is useful to deal with the speaker enclosures (in systems with a subwoofer equipped with small-sized satellites, it makes sense to modify only the subwoofer enclosure). As a rule, they are very far from ideal. In theory, they should be sealed, rigid and correctly calculated - have a volume corresponding to the parameters of the speaker. A lot of mainstream systems corps do not meet any (!) Of these criteria. As a result, such controls buzz (mumble, as many DIYers say) at low frequencies, inflate and emit sounds that are not included in the phonograms (it is not noticeable with the eye, of course, but it is noticeable by ear), and the speakers dangle and introduce distortions into the sound, therefore that leaky housings do not support them.
If these shortcomings are eliminated, the quality gain will be significant, approximately as noticeable as from changing and modifying the power supply, but of a different nature - there we fought with transient distortions, and here we will reduce the level of linear and nonlinear distortions.
First of all, we will deal with stiffness by means of ties or spacers. There will be more than enough spacers between the top and bottom walls, between the side, front and back walls it would be nice to install two at a time (if the cases have a volume of about ten liters or more). The easiest option in terms of technical performance is to pull off the opposite walls with thick metal bolts, drilling holes of the corresponding diameter in them. Not very aesthetically pleasing, but simple. Another way is to install from the inside of the enclosures as spacers wooden blocks 15x15 mm, attaching them to the walls with glue and screws. Naturally, they should stand in a spacer.
If the speakers on the front of the speaker system are close or due to some other design features, it is not possible to install a spacer between the front and rear walls, you can increase the rigidity of the body by using wooden blocks fixed on the corresponding ribs of the body (going from the front to the rear). Not really effective solutionbut it's still better than nothing. (mospagebreak)
Sealing
After strengthening the hull, take care of sealing it. To do this, take out all the filling from it - filters, speakers, wires, synthetic winterizer or other absorber. And carefully treat it from the inside with some viscous sealant ( necessary materials can be found in building stores or in motorist stores). It is best to use bitumen mastic, sold in bottles with sprayers, - it is quite simple to process the columns with it, but it does its job one hundred percent. Never use substances that become hard and brittle after hardening.
It is best to process and dry the speakers after it in the open air - dukhan from bituminous mastic, silicone and other similar substances will be such that even the neighbors will cough :). After the hulls are dry, it is useful to repeat the processing and drying procedure. Is it done? Excellent. The final touch - make soft rubber gaskets under the speakers and the back cover (the one with the terminals) and screw the speakers with the cover through them. When you finish the revision and close the case, you can walk for greater reliability with putty or other sealants along the joints of the speakers and the back cover with the case.
Volume
If the speakers are buzzing, it is useful to slightly increase the internal volume of the case (it simply won't work to increase it significantly). No, it does not need to be bored - just put fluffed cotton wool in it. But first, a suspension of a synthetic winterizer mat, which was already inside the case (if the manufacturers, of course, put it). A liter of body volume should account for 25 grams of padding polyester. Not enough? Add cotton wool, previously well fluffed. The normal amount is 10-15 grams per liter. In principle, you can put more, but it only makes sense to do this if the low-frequency humming has not stopped. You will lose a little bass, but the unpleasant hum will disappear.
There is another procedure, but it is quite tedious and not as effective as described above. The walls of the case can be pasted over from the inside with felt or, at worst, with batting. This measure will reduce the number of reflections of sound waves inside the cabinet, which will lead to a decrease in the distortion introduced by the cabinet to the sound. If you decide on this procedure, do not use too much glue when attaching the material to the walls so that the felt or batting does not become dense and useless. Apply glue in small dots. Personal recommendation not to use padding polyester with a thickness of more than 15 mm.
Further tuning
Like any tuning, the process of finalizing the speakers tends to take a long time and turn into a favorite hobby over time. Perhaps the completed revision will seem a little to you, and you will want more. And after a while you will become interested in what, in principle, it is possible to squeeze out of your system.
Deeper and more thorough revision for each system is individual and requires more than more time and money, but also the availability of certain knowledge. In addition, you will need some experience in assessing the sound quality by ear, the ability to choose test material, and work with ready-made tests (for example, FSQ). If you want to dig deeper, search the internet for information. Find like-minded people online, strain search engines to get scanned books and articles on relevant topics.
If you have small plastic speakers installed, there is no point in refining them. Even if your pockets are not full of money, try to get hold of the 100-60 dollar system to get the most out of it later. It’s impossible to achieve anything good from cheap plastic speakers. According to the laws of pricing, what comes down to retail, increases in price at least three times. Accordingly, it turns out that the developers of acoustics for ten dollars spend no more than three and a half dollars on everything. And everything is an amplifier, speakers, case, filters, a power supply (by the way, even a low-power, but high-quality PSU costs 5-10 dollars), small nonsense like wires and packaging materials (which also cost money). Development engineers also had to pay something, from the same ten dollars.
Improving the acoustics with your own hands.
You have a couple of speakers on hand, or maybe not a couple. Active or passive. Floor or shelf. Maybe a subwoofer at all, not speakers.
This article will help you learn about ways to improve the sound quality of your acoustics without extra costs... The most effective methods improvements to acoustics that are easy to implement with your own hands. This can be called the polishing of what the manufacturer could not implement due to the expediency of production and its return on investment.
All instructions and tips from this article are suitable for any acoustics with a bass reflex, including subwoofers and floorstanding speakers. Many of the tips are also valid for other types of loudspeakers.
So, let's begin.
Covering the body with sound-absorbing material and strengthening the structure.
First, let's find out for what purpose this procedure is performed.
Autopsy of columns.
It is very easy to disassemble the column.
If this is an active acoustics, then on the active speaker you need to unscrew the amplifying unit at the back, which is screwed on.
It is necessary to remove the block very carefully, without sudden movements. If there are plugs that come off, disconnect them and place the amplifier unit side by side without pulling the wires. On passive speakers, you just need to unscrew the screws on the midrange speaker and carefully remove it without damaging the wires.
* All these operations must be carried out carefully and without sudden movements, in order to avoid damage to wires and circuits.
Strengthening the body.
This modification is worth doing if you doubt the structural strength of your acoustics and there is no additional structures rigidity (reinforcing planks, "plugs" on the walls, ties between the walls). Almost always, the columns need additional reinforcement.
This procedure requires small 1x1 - 1x2cm beams and rubber glue. We will glue the bars along the corners, on which there are no bars, which will strengthen the adherence of the side walls to each other. We measure and cut off, apply and estimate, spread the timber and the place to which it will stick with abundant glue. We glue all the corners where the manufacturer saved wood. Naturally, we use the bars as spacers, and not just glue.
It is also worth laying beams along long walls columns if there are none. As shown in the picture, or diagonally. The beams should fit snugly around the edges.
It is also desirable to make horizontal spacers between the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure. Especially important for large speakers with long walls (for example Microlab Solo 7).
After this procedure, we get a stronger structure, which creates less resonance of the walls, as well as less vibration during micro-friction and touch of the walls to each other.
To carry out this procedure, we need double sided tape and sound absorbing material.
For what goals this is done.
All this action is carried out with the aim reduce the reflection of sound waves from the case of acoustics with a bass reflex. If this is not done, then often instead of the bass, incomprehensible humming and whistling sounds will fly out of it. The upholstery gives more smooth and balanced basswhich becomes more soft and better audible. It removes buzzing, resonating sounds that arise in the speaker cabinet due to the collision of sound waves. It also allows you to slightly expand the lower frequency range.
As sound absorbers, materials such as sintepon(can be found in any clothing market, but you can also find in an old jacket 🙂), felt, roll wool or the most interesting material - cotton wool, sound-absorbing - type “ URSA”, Besides, it is non-flammable. Only not insulating glass wool from quartz sand, and home to install partitions. If getting these materials is problematic, as a last resort you can use roll foam, which you can get in any HozMage... But still its use is highly undesirable. Do not forget that synthetic winterizer, felt, cotton wool must be fluffed up before gluing.
To begin with, take out the sound-absorbing material that the manufacturer put inside, if any.
What are we doing.
1) We glue with double-sided tape, as much as possible large area inside the column as much as possible. Peel off the protective paper immediately.
2) We cut or stretch the sound-absorbing material so that the bare walls are completely covered, including (especially) the corners.
3) We lay all cavities with material so that wooden walls were completely sealed. The thickness of the layer should be no more than 2 cm, otherwise it can significantly reduce the volume inside the body, which will not have the best effect on the depth of the bass component.
A warning.
In places that get hot, it's best not to overdo it. This applies to locations near the transformer and amplifier unit. Between them and the sound-absorbing material, it is better to leave an empty space of 1-2 cm. Therefore, best material Is a non-combustible sound-absorbing wool of the type "URSA», Which, for example, may remain after renovation. It can be used without restrictions.
You need to try to fix the material as carefully as possible. After all, you do not want that with large movements of air masses inside the case, cotton wool or synthetic winterizer jumped inside or even worse - flew out of the phase inverter 🙂
Refinement of the phase inverter.
To reduce the rattling and possible whistling from the bass reflex, it is worth doing 2 things.
1. Wrap the bass reflex with one layer of sound-absorbing material, like a "fur coat". Leave 1cm of bare space at the end of the bass reflex. Fasten the “fur coat” tightly with thin elastic bands, wrapping them around the bass reflex, as shown in the picture above.
2. Cut evenly with wire cutters any protective grilles inside the bass reflex tube. There is no benefit from them, but there are a lot of unnecessary overtones and whistles. If a mesh is glued to the end, then it is also better to remove it. This will allow air to pass more easily, which will increase the overall response rate of the speaker.
Installation of acoustics on spikes.
Try pressing the speaker for a while while playing music. You will hear him fake and swallow a good half frequencies. This happens because the finger absorbs vibrations, preventing the speaker from giving them into the air.
Column housing Is a continuation of the dynamics. When in contact with the floor, table, shelf or other things, the speaker cabinet gives off some of its vibrations to these objects, as in the example with a finger.
In order for the acoustics to qualitatively give sound waves into the air, without physically scattering them on the floor and objects with which it comes into contact, creating distortions, spikes are used.
The spikes are attached as legs... For this, 4 small holes (not through) are drilled on the bottom wall, into which they are screwed. You can buy them in many consumer electronics stores where acoustics and accessories are sold, or you can order them online. Under the spiked acoustics, should be hard material – ceramic tile, parquet or other. The main thing is that the legs have as little contact with it as possible and did not sink.
The principle of operation of thorns is that they are strong reduce the area of \u200b\u200bcontact column with the surface on which it stands. Thanks to this, the sound waves that are fed to the body begin to sound, and not fade away on the floor, parquet or shelf. Distortion is minimized, and the bass component becomes more audible and much more detailed.
Important note.
Spikes, it makes sense to use for acoustics with a decent weight and a decent size. Spikes should be used mainly for floor acoustics weighing more 12 kg. Or for subwoofers weighing 5 kg and more. In smaller acoustics, the effect will be, but not so noticeable.
Replacement of wires on the amplifying part of the acoustics. For active acoustics.
Often times, a manufacturer will skimp on things like wire quality from crossover to speaker and from board to crossover. The thickness, like the quality of the wire, directly affects the sound quality. The thicker the wire, the deeper the bass and the clearer the mids. This modification should primarily be carried out on subwoofers, because of the greater energy that flows through these very wires.
1.
We select a suitable replacement wire, naturally copper itself high Quality what is in stock. It is desirable not VVG (solid), since the signal changes when passing through such a wire. It is better to take a PVA (braided) core made of oxygen-free copper. Thicker is not always better, you need something in between, depending on the power of the acoustics.
2 . We unsolder and cut off the old wires. If there is a bracket at the other end, then, if possible, we solder the wires to the terminals themselves on the board. If this is not possible, cut off the bracket to the root, take out the terminals, solder the wires to them and insert them back into the bracket. We also wrap the speaker and crossover terminals and solder abundantly. Soldering is MANDATORY!
3. We are convinced of the quality of the soldering.
It is also worth paying attention to connecting wire between speakers.
The manufacturer rarely slips something sensible. The best option of the most affordable - braided wire with transparent insulation, which are completed, for example - SVEN Royal or Microlab SOLO 6 and higher.
A similar wire can also be purchased at electrical stores. What is it like inexpensive option replacement of flimsy wires that come with the acoustics. For floor optionsSpeaker wires with a thicker cross-section and better quality, oxygen-free copper are best suited. These can be bought at any store that sells home theaters, or in the electronics market.
A few words about wires from a sound source to acoustics.
The wires that go from the sound source to the speakers (usually tulips) or the receiver should be of good quality.
It is highly desirable that they be shielded from interference from power lines, cellular networks and radio. For this, wire manufacturers wrap them with a layer of foil, or braid with aluminum or copper thread. It is not difficult to distinguish them - they are much thicker than non-shielded ones. Also, high-quality wires should be with gold-plated plugs for less resistance and less signal loss on the plugs. You can buy such wires in the radio market or in stores that sell home theaters.
Note.
In order to have a tangible effect from changing wires, we recommend replacing them on acoustics with a price bar 100$ and higher (for 2.0). Or, if the wire used by the manufacturer is really of poor quality.
Use line filters.
Good network filterswhich are equipped high frequency suppressors, are good at cleaning the so-called white noise and other interference caused by poor power supply and network noise.
Often, in built-in amplifier circuits, there is no high-quality interference suppression circuit, which leads to distortions, noise from speakers and different sounds when the refrigerator or electric ignition starts gas stove at neighbors 🙂
Remember that cheap filters will not save you from interference. These are capable of protecting equipment from impulse currents, which arise, for example, when lightning strikes the wiring, and nothing more.
In the filters that we need, there must be a suppressor (filter) of high-frequency interference. They are also useful for receivers and amplifiers, both for protection and for better noise immunity.
Good filters make companies ZiS Pilot (since series GL), APC.
If the speakers are buzzing or extraneous sound comes from them.
There are usually two reasons:
- Poor signal source or cable.
- Poor input capacitors in the built-in amplifying part (if the speakers are active).
IN first case, you need to check the cable, see inserted whether connectors completely into the plug and check integrity cables. You also need take away wires from others, especially from cables supply network and radioas they create magnetic fields around them.
In second case, you need to open the column with the amplifying part. It is usually heavier and has a radiator.
Next, you need to find the capacitors of the mains filtering circuit. Usually there are two of them and they are the largest. They should be evaporated and replaced with new ones of high quality and with a high maximum voltage and capacity. It is also worth looking at whether others have swollen or flowed (brown or yellow dried liquid nearby). If so, then a replacement without hesitation.
You can also replace other large capacitors, since they do not stand out for multimedia acoustics.
Other helpful tips to improve the sound quality of your speakers, without any modifications.
Correct placement of acoustics.
To achieve the highest possible sound quality, acoustics need arrange correctly around the room.
30% of success in achieving the correct sound picture depends on the correct placement of the acoustics.
_________________________
1. Tweeters ( HF) - must be flush with the ear listener for better positioning in space.
2. Port bass reflex should not be anything closed... The distance from a wall or other obstacle should be more than 15 cm so that low frequencies are not lost at the output and nothing prevents them from spreading around the room.
3. Front speakers should be placed on 30 degrees, from the point of view of the listener and directed strictly towards him.
Rear, on 30 degrees from the side of the listener (from 90 degrees) This is the only way to ensure the best sound image depth.
4. Optimal distanceon which the speakers should stand from the listener - 2 meters for outdoor speakers and 1 meter for shelf.
5. Eliminate extraneous sound sources... It could be opened window, not a quiet system unit, and so on. All these sounds - interfere with the perception of sound and can even great sound - make it illegible and poorly detailed.
Conclusion.
Let's repeat the steps:
1. Strengthen the overall structure.
2. Upholstery with sound-absorbing material inside.
3. Modify the phase inverter.
4. Install acoustics on the spikes.
5. Replace wires inside and outside with better ones. Connect through a good surge protector.
6. Correctly arrange acoustics, exclude sources of noise.
7. Listen.
Most of these tips are suitable for both active acoustics and passive ones.
Be creative and wonder how better side the sound changes.
Happy modification!
How to fit a subwoofer with a carpet can be found in this article. In general, this process is not too difficult for those who are pre-trained.
After all, in order for pasting with a carpet to be crowned with success, you need not only to acquire suitable material, but also choose the technology by which the operation will take place. You will learn how to cover a subwoofer with a carpet without spending a lot of time and effort on it.
Reasons for pasting
There are only a few reasons why you may need to tape the subwoofer with a Carpet:
- If the old coating has worn out and lost its proper appearance. Because of this, the speakers (see) will spoil the style of the car;
- If the subwoofer case was created by hand. In this case, pasting with a carpet will be the last step in creating a column.
Note: not only this material can serve as a cover for the subwoofer, but also leather, dermantine or some other material.
How to make a subwoofer with your own hands
It's hard to imagine any car without. After all, almost every driver loves loud music so that they can ring in their ears.
To achieve high-quality sound, it is not enough just to choose a good speaker system, it must also be installed correctly. Sound insulation also plays an important role.
Consider how to make a subwoofer with your own hands, special attention paying to final stage work.
Stage 1 and material selection
The choice of the material from which the subwoofer will be made (see) should be approached with responsibility. The quality of the sound produced will largely depend on this.
The material must meet three basic requirements: it must be strong enough, dense and contribute to good sound insulation.
Therefore, at present, only a few materials can be distinguished that are suitable for making a box for a subwoofer:
- Particle board. It is inexpensive, but at the same time it combines all three necessary characteristics;
- Multi-layer plywood. Its advantage is that it is easily supplied to any processing, however, it should be remembered that this material is exposed to moisture and swells;
Note: For safety reasons, it is best to install subwoofers made of this material in dry locations.
- Particleboard is slightly inferior to its competitors, but at the same time it is used quite often. The fact is that it costs even less, but it is less durable;
- You can also use plastic to create a subwoofer, but in this case, the sound quality will be poor.
Stage 2 or assembly
There are several basic steps involved in assembling a subwoofer:
- To make it easier to cut out all the parts, you can make templates on cardboard. In this case, it is very important to take into account the dimensions of the future box;
- Transfer the template to the material;
Note: This can be done using chalk or a bar of soap (if you need to erase), or a marker (if the strip will not get in the way).
- Saw the sides of the box using a jigsaw. Don't forget that you need to make a hole for the future speaker.
It should be round. It is desirable that it be a few mm smaller in diameter than the diameter of the speaker itself; - The weak point of the future subwoofer is the terminal block. A short circuit can occur here. Therefore, it is advisable to make a defense for this vulnerability in the form of a small box;
- The fastening of the box should be carried out using self-tapping screws, since all parts must be securely screwed to each other;
- Another one important stage - leveling the surface of the subwoofer. To do this, first of all, it should be sanded, and only then it should be leveled with a putty.
- The cracks in the box must be repaired, since there must be a good resonance inside the box. And if there are a huge number of cracks in it, then the music will sound different
Stage 3 or decoration
The most popular way to decorate is painting. But you can approach this more creatively and cover the subwoofer with a carpet.
This will require the following materials:
- Carpet. It is usually sold in shoe stores;
- Solvent for degreasing;
Note: Gasoline will not work - it is too greasy.
- Glue. Better not to use rubber;
- Brush.
Carpet gluing is as follows:
- First of all, you need to estimate how much material should be needed for pasting. It depends on the size of the subwoofer;
- You can take about a meter of material and cover the subwoofer with it, and cut off all the remains;
Note: for cutting carpet parts, you can use already ready-made templatesthat were made in the process of creating the case;
- Take an unnecessary rag and carefully lubricate the surface of the box with a solvent;
- Let dry. After the subwoofer has been lubricated, it is not advisable to touch it with your fingers, as fat traces may remain;
- Take a brush and carefully grease the box with glue;
- Take the cut out parts and carefully attach them to the intended place. It is important to take into account that it is better to do the joint not along the edges, but in the middle of the sides. So the carpet will be better glued;
Note: You can smooth the material with a wallpaper trowel.
- Let dry;
- The edges of the subwoofer can also be decorated.
After that, you can install the created subwoofer anywhere. Most often, the column is located in the trunk of a car.
Sometimes they find a place for it on the back shelf. Anyway appearance the subwoofer is very important, so it should also be given sufficient attention.
Thus, you can make a wonderful do-it-yourself subwoofer at home. Naturally, the price of such a device will be much less than the finished one.
Our instructions will definitely help you cope with the operation. But before starting work, you can also familiarize yourself with additional photos and videos on this topic, of which there are many on the Internet.