Grinding wood floor is used to obtain a perfectly flat parquet or boardwalk... Moreover, this technology is used for both the old and new flooring. In the first case, renovation or renovation is carried out, in the second, alignment and preparation for finishing protective equipment: varnish, oil, wax.
Any wooden floor is assembled from many elements. It is very difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface when laying new parquet strips or large-format lamellas. The most common occurrence is drops, minor defects, scratches, areas with sapwood.
Almost the same set of problems is encountered with an old flooring that has been in operation for more than one year. To eliminate all these shortcomings, polishing of a wooden floor is designed, the essence of which is polishing wood and preparing its surface for varnish, oil, wax or any other decorative and protective agent.
Thus, the goals of grinding are:
- Leveling the floor;
- Elimination of surface defects;
- Removal of old paintwork, dirt.
Renovation of an old wooden floor.
Sanding wood flooring properly is not an easy task. To do this, use the series hand tools or electrical units. But the secret to good work is to gradually reduce the grain size of the grinding attachment. That is, first of all, coarse processing with grain of 40-60 units is realized, then fine - 100-120, 140-180 units. Compliance with this simple rule will make it possible to achieve excellent results even in difficult cases. For example, if wood flooring has multiple superficial damages or differences between the planks of more than 3 mm.
Sand the floor not necessary in the following cases:
How to polish wooden floors
The processing of a new wood covering and the restoration of the old one begins with the question: which instrument to choose? Focus on two basic conditions - the amount of work and financial capabilities.
Masters perform grinding in two ways:
For sanding wood floors by hand will be required:
With manual, as well as machine grinding, it is advisable not to forget about individual protection- a respirator mask and goggles.
For quick and high-quality preparation of wooden floors, the machine method is most often used. In this case, the following types of electrical equipment are used:
- Belt or drum sander.
This is a complex unit for preliminary sanding and rough sanding of coatings made of boards or small-format parquet strips. Abrasive grain size - from 40 to 80 units. The difference between the tape and drum apparatus is small. For the first, a cut-off tape of abrasive cloth is used, which moves between two moving rollers. In the second, a cut glued for a certain drum size is used sanding belt which is mounted on a cylindrical shaft.
Note that grinder This category is available in a rich assortment: professional and standard, with a single-phase 220 V or three-phase 380 V connection, with an integrated dust bag or an adapter for connecting a construction vacuum cleaner, etc. The cost varies widely: Appliances can be purchased for an average of 3,000 - 50,000 rubles, the price of professional comes up to 600,000 rubles.
- Surface grinder.
A single disc with a mono nozzle is produced from sandpaper or three-disc, equipped with 3 abrasive discs with grain size from 100 to 340 units.
This type of product is designed for the finest, literally jewelry finishing grinding wood and cork surface. Also used for intermediate leveling varnish coating... Single-disk devices are simpler, but three-disk devices are interesting in that each element rotates around its axis, and all three revolve around one common center.
Professional units are also equipped with a floating landing system grinding attachments, which, in combination with multidirectional rotation, allows you to work out the surface to mirror smoothness and evenness. The price of grinding machines is from 20,000 to 220,000 rubles.
- Single-disk surface grinding machine of the "boot" type.
Purpose - sanding wood flooring in hard-to-reach places, for example, under radiators or on stairs, in corners or along walls. Abrasive grain size module - from 40 to 320 units. Both household and professional devices are equipped with convenient rotary handles, the ability to connect vacuum cleaners or dust collectors. The price starts from 9,000 rubles.
Boot surface grinders.
- Angle grinders.
Includes grinders, vibration and eccentric (orbital) polishers. The same group includes small belt aggregates household type. Recommended for rough and fine woodworking. Convenient for working in hard-to-reach places and on small areas... Some products are equipped with a speed or motor power controller, as well as a kind of adapter for connecting a vacuum cleaner or dust collector.
The cheapest are vibrating devices. Their cost varies from 1,000 to 35,000 rubles. Grinders can be purchased for household, semi-professional and professional at prices ranging from 1,500 to 70,000 rubles. Orbital cars will cost a little more - from 3,000 to 90,000 rubles.
In an amicable way, in addition to the above units, you need to purchase or rent in advance construction vacuum cleaner and buy a whole set of components. Including abrasive wheels, tapes or nozzles of various grain sizes (preferably from 40 to 240 units), scissors, etc.
Which sander is the best to choose? There is no exact answer to this question, but it is worth paying attention to the main parameters:
Purpose and class of the product
Household products are lightweight, inexpensive and compact. But they are intended for one-time or rare work. Power - no more than 1 kW. In addition, the width or diameter of the useful surface rarely exceeds 15 cm.Exactly they work on large areas it is difficult for an inexperienced craftsman - you need a good eye and a steady hand.
The professional series are large and heavy devices with a working width of up to 30 cm or a diameter of up to 60 cm.There is good heat protection, a special set for quick change of nozzles, as well as various protector elements - RCDs, limiters, speed switches, rotary ergonomic handles, etc. The average power consumption of the grinder is about 2-2.5 kW.
Grinding machine for the pros.
Build quality
Pay attention not only to the ease of use, but also to the quality factor of the details. The machine must have flat surface, without chips, coating sagging, sagging, the gaps between the parts are minimal. Be sure to check the strength and reliability of the fasteners.
Availability of additional "devices"
Including dust collectors or adapters for connecting a vacuum cleaner, soft start and engine speed control functions, overheating protection, etc.
All other criteria are selected by the buyer independently. We recommend choosing products renowned manufacturers such as Lagler, Stanley, Bosch, Aeg, etc. They not only provide a warranty and post-warranty service, but also have a wide network of dealer and service centers in Russia and the CIS countries.
Technology
The sanding job is not that easy. This is a rather complex and time-consuming complex that includes six main stages.
Coating preparation
The new flooring must be checked for defects such as knots that have fallen out, not glued dies, protruding nails, chips, or overly wide gaps. Old parquet checked for integrity, damage and fixing strength. To eliminate shortcomings, they most often use parquet glue and putty masses (special liquids or PVA glue mixed with fine sawdust). It is better not to use elastic grouts and sealants, as they do not gain sufficient strength and "clog" the abrasive nozzle.
In order not to damage the drum or disc of the machine, all steel elements must be "sunk" into the floor by at least 3 mm. Damaged strips must be replaced with new ones, and not glued ones - fixed with glue and hardware. Dust and debris are removed damp cloth or a construction vacuum cleaner.
Primary grinding
Rough sanding.
First of all, a drum machine or belt type as the most productive and efficient. This stage is most often called scraping or rough grinding of the surface, since an abrasive material with a grain size of 40 or 60 units is used. Bumps, scratches, old paintwork, dirt, etc. are removed.
Professional devices allow you to adjust the downforce of the abrasive. This is very convenient, because a uniform adherence of the nozzle to the surface is ensured, which means more quality work... A tape or glued strip is installed on the base, carefully fixed and deep processing is carried out:
- For deck decking - along the grain from wall to wall. Lateral movement with such a laying is allowed only when the machine is turning near vertical enclosing structures;
- On a herringbone parquet - diagonally, with a uniform advance over the entire surface;
- When laying braid, shield or palace parquet (multidirectional installation) - crosswise without highlighting individual sections;
- On art parquet- circular motion, twisted in a spiral
The sanding process is quite dusty, therefore drafts are an undesirable phenomenon. Therefore, in the work area, be sure to close the windows and entrance doors.
The technician should periodically check the condition of the abrasive nozzle and, if necessary, replace the worn part with a new one. This is a kind of preventive measure against strips and individual untreated areas.
At the end of the main work, it is necessary to process corners and other hard-to-reach places... For rough grinding of the floor with a grinder, an orbital machine or a "boot", you will need circular nozzles of the same grain size - 40 or 60 units.
Fine grinding
The stage of fine leveling is carried out by surface grinders with one or three disc machines. At the same time, all small irregularities, dents, cracks and other defects on the floorboards are finally eliminated. For effective work wheels of different grain sizes are used - 60, 80, 100 and 120. In some cases, even abrasive discs with a size module of 180 or 240 are used.
The work is carried out again along the fibers. The tips should be replaced with new ones as they wear out. Corners, steps and others difficult areas processed with angle grinder or "boot" with circles of the same grain size. At the end of the work, the surface must be vacuumed again or wiped with a damp soft cloth... Fine wood suspension and dust must be removed completely.
Filling gaps and tiny defects
After leveling the surface, you can start filling. For this, pasty ready-made compositions for wood or special putty liquids are used. Professionals prefer the latter, since when mixed with sawdust from the treated plank floor, a mass of an identical shade is obtained, perfectly filling all voids, while being quite elastic and not cracking over time. The mixture is applied with a stainless trowel, which allows filling the pores, while cutting off the "raised" small wood fibers.
Finishing sanding
Before finishing with varnish, oil or wax it is necessary to polish the surface again. The work is carried out after the putty has dried and polymerized. It is implemented using a surface grinder and angle grinder with abrasive nozzles with a grain size of 120-160 units. The direction of movement is the same - along the fibers. After treatment, the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed again.
As a result, all excess is completely removed from the surface and the floor becomes perfectly smooth.
Priming and topcoating
Even after applying the filler, it is advisable to prime the floor or treat it with impregnations with a fungicidal, bioprotective or tinting effect. If you used a ready-made colored putty, be prepared for the surface to be multi-colored. Putty liquids mixed with fine wood dust from parquet flooring do not have this drawback.
After the primer has dried, the first coat of varnish, oil or wax is applied. Then, intermediate finest floor grinding or polishing (by oil or wax) is carried out using orbital or surface grinders with nozzles with a grain size of more than 140 units. Before applying the finishing coat of varnish or oil-wax mixture, the surface must be vacuumed again or wiped with a damp cloth.
Thus, polishing a wooden floor requires a lot of time and effort, not to mention finances. But it is this technology that allows you to get a beautiful and remarkably flat floor without the slightest flaw in a few days.
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More than once I come across situations where builders neglect some important milestones when processing wood. And if interior decoration forgives a lot, with the exception of decorative properties, then painting errors on the outside lead to inevitable financial losses. By the way, expressions like "my second cousin did this and everything is fine" mean only one of the group high risk he was lucky. You can try your luck too, but for those who are not accustomed to relying on chance, I will tell you about the important or not very stages of wood processing using the example of outdoor decoration.
Surface preparation. Lumber made on good machines, have a sufficiently smooth surface that does not seem to require additional grinding. Why is it still important?
The smoothest gouging will be inferior to the sanded surface anyway.
Glazing (translucent) compositions contain pigments that are unevenly distributed over the surface. Colorants are absorbed more strongly into soft layers, less into hard ones. And in small scuffs and roughness, the most a large number of... Bottom line: spots on the surface.
Another characteristic of wood is the oxidation of resins and polyesters on the surface, which clog the pores. It's natural defense mechanism... After removing the top layer, you have 48 hours to put the first compound, further the penetration of the compounds becomes minimal. Penetration and adhesion (adhesion) to the surface is severely impaired without sanding. Result: exfoliation of the compositions.
After sanding the surface, the first layer of your composition was applied. The next mistake is the lack of intermediate grinding. By the way, not all formulations require it. A little more detail, whence such a need after good preparation.
Wood treatment compounds often raise the pile (fibers) of the wood. In this context, all formulations can be divided into three categories. On water based they raise the pile the most. Solvent-based (including popular German brand oils contain a small amount of solvent!) Also have the ability to whip up the loose ends of the fibers. Pure oil products (highest price category) do not raise the pile, do not require intermediate sanding.
The raised pile has two drawbacks. First, it roughens the surface, reducing decorative properties(as well as retaining contamination on the surface in further operation). The second raised pile equally open pores. This is a kind of gateway for spores of fungi and microorganisms. And it is not at all a fact that the next layer of the composition will close every pore.
Intermediate sanding is not at all the same as the initial one. It is made by hand with an abrasive bar 80-120 (by no means mechanically, there is a risk of removing the paint layer), it is quite simple. The pile just needs to be knocked down. Not difficult at all, but important procedure... IMHO, neglecting her is not the wisest decision. Unless, of course, your task is not to take revenge on the owner of the house.
What I wanted to say in this article. The economy must be economical. If today you saved 100 rubles, and a couple of years later spent 2,000 rubles. (yes, removing the old layer of paint, buying a new composition, hiring skilled workers this time, etc.), then the economist from you is not the best. I advise everyone not to succumb to the persuasion of negligent performers and wish you many years of service to your property!
Parquet - piece flooring, therefore, in the process of laying several hundred planks, it is impossible to achieve an absolutely flat canvas.
For this, special processes have been developed - scraping and grinding. The same methods are used to restore old parquet floors.
Their main purpose is to bring the finished parquet floor to the ideal.
Before varnishing a parquet floor, it must be sanded, that is, in fact, the coating must be polished to a state of "perfectly smooth". Using the same processing technique, the remnants of the old paint process, dirt, minor defects, scratches, weak wood fibers that have "risen" during the laying or scraping of the floor.
The secret to perfect sanding is to gradually reduce the grain size of the nozzles. First, rough processing is carried out, then more subtle. This approach allows you to achieve excellent results even on the surface in very poor condition.
You do not need to sand the parquet with your own hands in the following cases:
- When the gaps between the planks of the old floor are more than 7 mm. Grouting and restoring is an incredibly time-consuming job, and no one can guarantee that this coating will not deform in a few months. For such cases, it is recommended to either complete replacement, or perefilovanie canvas with processing of each die and the use of adhesive mixtures.
- Strong abrasion of the most frequent places of walking (corridors, passages between rooms) or deep scratches, chips, as well as grooves gnawed by woodworms. It is best to replace the damaged area first and then sand the entire floor.
- The parquet was flooded big amount water and swelled, mold and mildew appeared. Treatment is only a replacement.
Required materials and tools
As a rule, the owner of the house, who has decided to restore or install a parquet floor, is faced with the question - how to polish the parquet? There are two ways: manual and machine. The first one is very laborious, long-term, not too expensive. This is hand sanding.
In this case, you will need the following materials for polishing parquet:
- Uneven-grained skin in rolls (from 40 to 120 units). The amount depends on the area to be treated.
- Holder (grater) for sandpaper, plastic or wooden. It is better to choose with an ergonomic handle, otherwise the hand will quickly get tired.
- Manual scraper (scraper) for removing old paintwork, which is a steel plate bent at an angle of 45 °, fixed on a wooden or plastic pressure handle.
- Respirator mask for protection respiratory tract from dust.
But manual processing rarely uses, they prefer the second method - machine. All because of the availability of equipment, because what you can't buy can be rented at affordable prices.
For the rough preprocessing parquet or any wooden floors (grooved board, parquet board, engineering massif), tape is required parquet grinder drum type.
It is also used during the restoration of the parquet floor to remove old paints and varnishes and is used when you need a simultaneous sanding-polishing of the parquet.
Available in two versions - with single-phase (220 V) and three-phase (380 V) drives. Modern models Equipped with a fabric dust bag. The cost of the unit depends on the profile: household units can be purchased at a price of 6,000 rubles, professional units - from 90,000 rubles.
Fine grinding parquet boards and parquet flooring is carried out with single- or three-disc surface grinders with abrasive paper wheel attachments with a grain size of 120 to 340 units.
This is exclusively professional equipment, it is used for jewelry polishing of a wooden floor before painting and after applying a filler, as well as for intermediate polishing of the base between layers of paint and varnish coatings. The price starts from 60,000 rubles.
Angle grinders for parquet ("boot") are designed to work in hard-to-reach places for large units (under radiators, in corners, near door frames).
The attachments-circles with Velcro are used, the grain size is from 40 to 400 units. Equipped with fabric dust bags on swivel handles.
A construction vacuum cleaner is used to dedust the surface and / or attach to grinders that are not equipped with built-in pumps.
A ready-made putty or liquid is needed to prepare a tinted putty mass for leveling minor defects.
Don't forget about accessories and consumables - abrasive belts or circles, scissors, spanners for fixing drums on grinders, steel or silicone spatulas.
All equipment can be rented at reasonable prices. So, a small sander for parquet rental will cost from 800 rubles / day, large devices - from 1500 rubles / day with a deposit amount of 20,000 rubles.
Work technology
Parquet sanding works include preparation, deep / coarse sanding, fine finishing, filling of defects and finishing sanding. Let's consider all the stages separately.
Preparatory stage
Freshly laid parquet flooring should be inspected for minor defects (fallen knots, loose or poorly glued planks), damage (chips, cracks). All these disadvantages can be easily eliminated with a putty compound or wood glue.
Bituminous mastic for gluing solid board doctors do not recommend using. Better to use special adhesives free of phenol and formaldehyde.
All hardware and other protruding elements must be sunk into the wood by 3-4 mm so as not to damage the drum of an expensive machine.
Sanding old parquet is a more complicated process, since almost every plank must be checked for integrity and fastening. Damaged elements are replaced, poorly glued ones are re-glued. After finishing work, you need to vacuum the entire coating and wipe it with a damp cloth.
Coarse sanding
Before starting work, it is advisable to adjust the downforce of the drum and its uniform fit. This is done using a special screw and wheel balancing.
An abrasive of 40 grit is filled into the drum and deep grinding of the parquet floor begins along the parquet fibers. Lateral movement is permissible on U-turns. For the “herringbone”, the processing is carried out diagonally, for the palace or wicker - crosswise, for the artistic one - round and round with a spiral twisting.
Drafts must not be allowed. Therefore, it is advisable to close the windows in the treated room.
As abrasion progresses, the abrasive material must be replaced with a new one.
After finishing work, you need to walk with an angle grinder in a circular motion in corners and hard-to-reach places. The granularity of the nozzles is the same - 40 units.
Fine grinding
It is carried out using a surface grinder. It removes all irregularities, scratches, minor defects. In this case, circles with a grain size of 60 to 120 units are used. It turns out that the parquet is brought to an ideal state in 3-4 passes. Replace discs as they wear out.
All hard-to-reach places are again processed with a "boot" with the appropriate attachments - from 60 to 120 units. After finishing work, the floor is vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth.
Putty
Defects of the restored floor are corrected with a ready-made colored wood-imitation putty (Belinka, Helios, Tex). If it is possible to purchase a special putty liquid, then it is better to make the mass yourself. In this case, a perfect match with the parquet tone is guaranteed.
It is necessary to take into account the fact that the varnish "burns" the wood a little. After varnishing, even with a transparent compound, the floor darkens by 1-3 tones, so it is preferable to use a homemade putty.
A slide of fine-grained sawdust is poured onto the floor, poured with a special compound, quickly stirred with a spatula from of stainless steel and is evenly distributed by rubbing movements throughout the parquet. Drying time - up to 24 hours.
Fine grinding
For the final finishing to the ideal, the parquet needs to be worked out again using a surface grinder with a circle, grain size from 120 and above. Some professional varnishes require preliminary preparation with attachments from 240 and above. The movement of the unit is in the direction of the fibers.
After completing the work, you need to vacuum it again with an industrial apparatus and rinse with a damp cloth. After that, the floor is primed and varnished in 2-4 layers. Between 1 and 2, intermediate grinding with a surface grinder with a nozzle with a grain size of more than 160 units is desirable.
How to choose grinders
Belt sanders are not purchased for frequent use, but their choice must be approached responsibly.
In this case, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:
- Purpose. Household grinders are compact (up to 10 kg), inexpensive, the size of the working surface is up to 10 cm. primary processing on small areas. More than 10 sq. m. of area it is very difficult for them to process exactly - they need experienced master with an excellent eye. Professional units are voluminous, weight - up to 100 kg, belt width - up to 25 cm. They are used for both coarse and fine grinding. The weak point is the rubber glued to the drum. It is easy to damage it with a nail sticking out of the floor, a bar of wire.
- Power. Simple machines consume up to 1 kW, professional ones - from 2.5 kW and above. Of course, than more powerful apparatus, the faster the grinding is done.
- Functionality. There must be an RCD, a gearshift lever, special limiting rollers that allow you to process the parquet close to the wall without fear of touching the plinth.
- Ergonomic The front cover should be hinged to ensure easy assembly and disassembly of the drum and skin. The clamps must provide a good tension on the tape.
- Build quality and workmanship. The apparatus must have even coverage no chips or streaks, the gaps between the parts are minimal, the fasteners are strong and reliable.
Price plays an important role here, but if you are going to do this constantly, then it is better not to save. For one-time work, you can use rental equipment.
Video - parquet grinding different kinds grinding machines: