They require regular refreshing with special compounds (for example, "Polish"). If they are absent, furniture can be wiped with vaseline oil. For this, a tampon is prepared from a lump of cotton wool wrapped in a soft, non-synthetic fabric Thin layers are applied to the cotton wool petroleum jelly and wipe the furniture with a swab. After 2-5 minutes, rub the treated surfaces with a flannel cloth.
White spots may form on varnished and polished surfaces, for example, under heated objects (a glass of hot tea). To remove them, a few drops of a mixture of an equal amount of refined vegetable oil and ethyl alcohol. In a circular motion, the rags rub this mixture into the surface until the stain disappears.
To eliminate minor dents without destroying the veneer, the so-called swelling effect is used. The varnish or polish is removed from the damaged area with a sandpaper, a cloth moistened with warm water is applied to the dent and left for several hours. The veneer fibers, saturated with water, swell and warp. If the defect is not completely eliminated, then after 5-6 hours a damp cloth is applied again. The leveled surface is finished, trying to bring it closer to the appearance of intact furniture
Other relatively common damage to the finishing veneer is swelling, cracking, flaking. Full recovery the appearance of the product is a very time-consuming operation, therefore it is recommended to first try to correct the defect using cosmetic methods.
Small gaps can be covered with a mixture of wood flour (from wood of the same species as veneer) with wood glue. After complete hardening, the defective area is sanded with fine sandpaper. Sometimes, in order not to affect the entire veneer, grinding is done with a file. Then the sanded damage is covered with a colorless varnish.
If the veneer has peeled off, then its edge is carefully folded back. With a sharp knife (scalpel), clean the veneer and the board from the remnants of glue. The peeled veneer is moistened warm water, and the tiles are coated with glue ("Dubok" is recommended). Then the veneer is pressed against the plate and first ironed with a palm from the middle to the edge, and then with a small warm iron or a heated hammer. After removing the squeezed glue, the glued section of the veneer is pressed with clamps. If the veneer is swollen, it must be made of thick paper the model of the defect of the same dimensions and, having cut the model in the middle of the bulge, determine what width of the cut ensures a snug fit of the veneer to the slab. A cut in the bulge is made along the veneer fibers and, carefully bending its edges, remove the dried and introduce new glue. After pressing the veneer, while the glue has not yet hardened, remove the overlapping edges or glue a strip from the cut veneer, then clamp the area to be glued with a clamp or press it with a load.
It is best to use a hot sand bag. In order to press down on the vertical sections, the bag should be quilted and hung like a pendulum. The point of its suspension should be above the furniture.
If the listed methods do not give the desired result, an insert is made. It is made of veneer of the same species, structure, color as all the furniture is faced with. The insert is usually a rhombus, one axis of which is three to four times larger than the other. The long axis is placed along the grain. It is advisable to have an insert template from thin plywood or roofing iron. First, it is laid on the defective place and outlined, and then the old veneer is removed with a sharp chisel. Sometimes, instead of drawing with a sharp boot knife, the veneer is cut through to the plate.
HOUFEK offers Hi-tech grinding:
1. Grinding of MDF facades.
The plane is sanded with a standard belt using a contact sanding roller and an iron (preferably sectional with electronic control). And the profile pattern should be sanded with brushes: disc or drum type. The combined use of two grinding systems allows you to achieve the desired result.
2. Grinding veneer.
Quite a rare operation in Russian production. Everyone wants to buy ready-made veneer and not create similar problems for themselves. And there are indeed difficulties. The machine that sanding veneer must have vacuum table- a table with grooves in the metal and holes in the feed conveyor. Of course, a pump is also required to operate the vacuum table. The number and composition of the grinding units must always be agreed with our representative. The selection of the skin should also be appropriate. Models have such an opportunity. BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX .
3. Grinding of short workpieces.
It is known that some paneled doors are first polished and painted in blanks, and only then assembled. Some panels are too small (250x100, 300x150). Such small dimensions of blanks are often found in the manufacture of bathroom furniture. Such workpieces may not pass correctly under the grinding units. The best way out is the same vacuum table. It will allow the most reliable way to "suck" any workpiece to the feeding conveyor. Models have such an opportunity. BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX ... If we grind with brushes or flap discs, then the model FINAL .
4. Grinding window frames assembled (production of wooden euro-windows).
Unlike paneled doors, euro windows are polished as an assembly, and only then painted. A conventional sizing-grinding machine will not work for this purpose: the frame has vertical and horizontal crossbars, and you only need to grind along the fibers. Such a task is possible only with a special machine of the CINDY model. It is made open on one side and can overtake the frame and sash along the perimeter, always sanding along the grain.
5. Calibration of furniture boards (sill boards, countertops, stairs).
No matter how the production workers show off their equipment, glue furniture board from ideal lamellas and to observe the ideal geometry is impossible. Experienced technologists know this firsthand. To calibrate such shields, it is imperative to have the first milling (also called planer or thicknessing) unit. It will partially restore the geometry and, if necessary, remove thickness differences up to 5 mm at a width of 1300 mm. Machines are completed with a planing unit BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX .
6. Grinding of veneered workpieces.
The main difficulty lies in the preparatory operations. Before gluing, it is imperative to calibrate the base material, no matter how ideal it may seem at first glance. And you should definitely pay Special attention pressing and subsequent exposure. This is where very important subtleties lie. Everything else is successfully done by our woodworking machines of the series BULDOG3 , BULDOG5 , BULDOG7 andMAXX .
7. Grinding of curved workpieces (tabletops, stairs, furniture elements).
In order not to "fill up" the edges of such complex workpieces, such a thing as a controlled pneumatic iron is required. Moreover, the grinding iron must be computer controlled. The computer monitors the shape of the part and turns off or adds edge ironing segments. Using a simple sectional iron you run the risk of grinding the longitudinal edges, this is especially important on veneered workpieces. We grind curved lines on Buldog machines.
8. Calibration of MDF or particle board.
The preliminary calibration operation before further pasting or painting of MDF or particle board, particle board, fiberboard is one of the simplest. Purpose: to level and prepare the surface of the slab. It is possible to work at high feed rates and using coarse sandpaper. The only thing to pay attention to is the hardness of the grinding shaft. On soft rubber, you will quickly ruin the entire rubberized layer and will be forced to change the shaft or give it back for restoration. This operation is expensive and it is better to avoid it. Install a steel shaft - it is more reliable for this purpose. Pay attention to drive power.
9. Sizing and sanding of softwood.
Despite the seeming simplicity of this operation, you will also encounter minor problems: the skin will be clogged with resin. You can't get rid of this completely, but you can reduce the impact in several ways. Sandpaper with a cloth backing - can still be cleaned and reused. Install airflow on the machine sanding belts- particles of material will be blown out of the skin directly on the machine.
10. Intermediate sanding of paint coatings.
You have applied a layer of primer to the part with NC varnish, the pile has risen and you need to perform intermediate grinding. Task: remove 0.05 ... 0.1 mm - remove only the villi. At first glance, nothing complicated, but the machine does not pull. Why? Yes, because the surfaces covered with varnish (such as NC) have a very high hardness. Even engine power over 10 kW may not be sufficient. There is a way out - the selection of speeds and powers.
11. Calibration and grinding of slab parts made of other materials (plastic, asbestos-cement slabs, metal, etc.)
The sizing and grinding machines of the Czech company HOUFEK are able to process not only solid wood blanks or on its basis. Any construction slab materials, plastics and metal sheets also amenable to grinding and calibration. Only this is a separate topic for conversation and The best way pick up a machine - consult the manager.
Has the old furniture lost its former luster? tired, but it's a pity to throw it away? All this is fixable: you can appearance improve so that no one even thinks that the furniture is many years old. Do-it-yourself furniture restoration is painstaking work. But you don't have to do anything super complicated. Some of the methods are so simple that everyone can do it (this is, of course, not about antiques).
Restoration of wooden surfaces
No matter how carefully the furniture is handled, scuffs, scratches, stains still occur. They are easy to eliminate. The main thing is to know how and with what.
We restore polish
Restoring a layer of varnish is difficult. Any furniture restoration begins with cleaning and degreasing and repairing the lacquer coating too. We use detergent for dishes diluted in water: safe and reliable. After drying, we proceed to update the polish.
You can simply refresh the faded polish on furniture with do-it-yourself mixtures:
- In two parts linseed oil and turpentine and some vinegar. All mix, apply with a swab, wait until it is absorbed and polished.
- Mix oil and beer in equal parts and wipe the furniture with this composition. After absorbed, grate.
- A more shiny surface will be if the beer is boiled with a piece of wax, cooled and applied slightly warm to furniture. When the composition is absorbed, the surface is rubbed to a shine.
A few more recipes in the video.
How to remove polish from furniture
Quite often you have to remove the polish: this is not the most fashionable finish. Modern furniture most often painted with opaque or tinted paints, and the surface is matte. In any case, the polish must be removed. There are several ways. Since varnishes are different in composition, they have to be selected empirically. But one of the methods should work.
How to paint polished furniture
If old furniture prepared for painting, it must be cleaned of dust, wiped with a damp cloth and allowed to dry. After that, level everything with putty, smooth out all irregularities, wait until it dries. Take sandpaper and skin again first with medium, then fine grain. Next, apply a layer of primer and wait for it to dry.
The primer is bought for the paint that is going to be used, or the paint can be diluted with a compatible solvent and covered instead of primer. After drying, you can paint.
You can paint with a roller or brush. Usually several coats are necessary: do not try to apply a lot of paint at once, as drips may appear. Better to apply several thin coats. This will make the surface even and uniform in color. Another trick: for uniform coloring, the layers are applied in different directions - along, then across. This also applies to the application of the varnish.
Some varnishes are easier to work with when they are warm. They are heated a little and then applied with a spray gun or brush. When warming up, you need to be careful: vapors may flare up.
In the order of staining: first, they paint the inner surfaces, edges and joints, then move on to the outer ones. With this sequence, there is less chance of getting dirty or touching the already painted surface, ruining it.
If varnish coating smooth, without defects, but it must be painted over, you can do without removing this layer. There are special primers for difficult surfaces. Coat the surface with them, and paint after drying. They have components that even penetrate the varnish layer. Therefore, the paint will be well applied and hold for a long time. But such soils have a drawback: they are expensive. But they significantly save time.
Some secrets of wood coloring (including brushing and painting in two colors) are in the article ““. A few secrets of even application acrylic paint see the video.
If the restoration did not bring the expected result, maybe you need to change the appearance? How
How to restore veneer
Veneered furniture requires a special approach. The means are basically the same, the methods are different. For example, if the veneer is swollen after being hit, you put PVA glue into a disposable syringe, pierce the bubble, and inject glue into the cavity. Put a piece of thick fabric on top and place the load. If the surface is uneven (convex or concave), use a bag of dense fabric with heated sand as a load.
If the veneer is glued with alcohol glue, the swollen part can be returned to its place by ironing it through a rag with a hot iron. But do not overheat the iron: the veneer can stretch. The degree of heating is medium.
If ironing through a dry cloth does not work, try repeating the operation with a damp cloth (wet it and wring it out well). There is a chance that the wood will swell and become more elastic. For reliable fixation of the bulge, you can insert PVA there, and then heat it with an iron.
If the bulge is cracked, you can also try to seal it with heating (through a rag). If it doesn't work, tear off the peeled piece. Do not cut, but break off: on the veneer, fractures after restoration are less noticeable than cuts. Therefore, you break off the lagging piece. From the place of damage and a piece of veneer are cleaned old glue(with emery paper or a nail file - depending on the size). Further, the repair of the veneer on the furniture is standard: they smeared it with PVA glue, laid it down, aligning the fracture lines, laid a thick cloth on top and put the load to dry.
Scratches and traces of restoration on veneer are removed in the same way as on wood: they are painted over with a furniture marker of a suitable shade. If the scratch is deep, a little melted furniture wax is applied to it (with a spatula). After drying, the wax is grinded, if necessary, sandpaper with a fine grain is used, but after such processing, the restored piece is covered with a layer of varnish.
Do-it-yourself furniture restoration requires patience and accuracy. We have to act gradually and methodically: smeared, wait for drying, leveled, smeared again, etc. Sometimes you have to try several methods: the damage is different, as are the materials used in the manufacture (glue, varnishes, etc.). But the furniture will look much better as a result.
When sanding wood with worn out or low-quality abrasive materials, the material is not cut, but smoothed.
As a result, due to the different hardness of the autumn and spring parts of the annual rings, the surface relief appears. This defect cannot be hidden during staining, unless we wanted to purposefully obtain such a result.
Why does the surface become shiny after sanding?
If the surface becomes shiny after sanding, this does not mean that the surface is sanded, it is simply smoothed.
With subsequent finishing, the pile will rise again. In addition, there may be problems with poor absorbency of the stain, with the appearance of stains on the surface or poor adhesion of the paintwork.
Paint the wood immediately after sanding!
The wood should be sanded with the lowest possible surface pressure.
The wood must be painted immediately after sanding in order to prevent dirt from entering the surface or the release of substances from the wood that can reduce the adhesion of paints and varnishes.
It is also necessary to paint the wood immediately after intermediate sanding between two layers. paint material... If too much time has passed after sanding before painting, then sanding must be repeated.
Use a grinder
Grinding machines produce a much less wavy surface than hand grinding.
Usually, eccentric grinders are used with a periodic displacement of the center of rotation of the disc by 3-7 mm. The higher the speed of rotation and the amplitude of the displacement of the center of the grinding disc, the faster, but also coarser, the surface treatment occurs.
For the finest sanding, it is better to use machines with a center offset of 3 mm.
Monitor the humidity in the area
Microclimate in production area it is desirable to bring them closer to the storage conditions for the storage of grinding materials.
To reduce the severity of problems with electrostatic adhesion of grinding dust, it is recommended to maintain the humidity around 70%, wipe the surface with antistatic wipes.
Adjust and continuously maintain the required air humidity for optimal performance abrasive tools at production sites will be helped by an air humidification system, for example, from one of the world leaders in the production of industrial humidifiers from Merlin, Austria.
Initially use 120-150 grit sandpaper
Start sanding wood with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper, then work up to 180 grit.
In this way, you can achieve the desired state wooden surface before applying oil, varnish, stain or other coating.
When sanding the wood in layers, use sandpaper with a grain size of 280 or more
If the wood is finished with layer-by-layer application of paintwork materials, then intermediate sanding will be required. In this case, each layer on the wood is sanded with 280 grit sandpaper, and for final sanding with 400 grit sandpaper.
Moisten the sanded wood surface to pick up any remaining lint in the final sanding step
At the final sanding stage, dampen the wood surface with a damp cloth. As a result, unprocessed fine fibers will rise and become visible and the finishing polish will be easy to carry out.
Grinding machines will produce great results, but they often cause bad surprises.
We will tell you how to avoid the most common mistakes when using them.
If you do everything right, you will achieve a very smooth surface by hand sanding. If you make a mistake at least a little, you will have to fix the defects.
The tips below will help you minimize this risk.
Compliance with the grain of the abrasive to the properties of wood
Potential Problem: Having decided that sanding dense, fine-grained wood, such as walnut and cherry, is better with fine-grained paper, you inserted into the drill chuck grinding drum wrapping it with a fresh piece of sandpaper # 220, or fixing it to the sole eccentric sander a new disc and began to grind, pressing the part firmly in order to quickly remove the saw marks on the edges. Suddenly you smelled burning wood. On top photo the result of such grinding is shown, only slightly exaggerated for clarity. This part usually has to be thrown away.
The correct method: avoid the problem by using grinding discs or drums with a coarser grit, for example 80 grit. After turning on the machine, move the part evenly, avoiding strong pressure, especially at the ends. You need to move the part with constant speed without stopping to prevent the occurrence of burns.
Oscillating drum vertical spindle machines are better at sanding hard and dense wood species. The up and down movement of the spindle helps dissipate the heat generated during grinding, unlike a conventional grinding drum mounted on drilling machine, but in this case it is necessary to constantly move the part.
If you need to grind the contours of the sawn part to the lines of the template, first saw it with a minimum allowance (no more than 1 mm) in order to shorten the grinding time as much as possible and prevent overheating.
When you need hand sanding
Potential Problem: You sand the primed surface or dry coat of varnish before applying the next, using sandpaper No. 220. Accidentally abrasive wipes through the varnish layer and scratches the stained wood. You will now have to completely remove the finish to clean wood and start over again on the damaged surface.
Correct method: first of all, determine if you need to intermediate grinding finishing layers.
Coatings such as nitro varnish partially dissolve the previously applied layer, so sanding can be dispensed with. If you chose polyurethane without sanding, apply a second coat as soon as the first coat dries, which usually has a rough surface. After the second coat has dried, lightly sand it by hand with a 320 grit on a resilient backing to roughen for a strong bond on the next coat. Ready-made wood priming compounds require particularly gentle and careful sanding.
Contouring
Potential Problem: You are grinding a workpiece with a long smooth bend on a vertical spindle machine. When you stop to admire your work, you find many ugly irregularities on the curved edge.
Correct method: in this example, for clarity, we showed a slightly exaggerated result of such grinding. Always use a grinding drum largest diameter suitable for the bend radius. Instead of machine grinding, you can successfully process such parts by hand, using trimmings from cutting a curved contour.
Use coarse sandpaper to remove sawing marks from the edge of such trim, being careful not to change the shape of the edge. Then glue strips of sandpaper on this edge one by one, sequentially increasing the grit number from 60 to 180-220 units.
Sand the veneer carefully
Potential Problem: After gluing the edge strips to a thin veneer fly, you are going to grind off the protruding edges of the strips. In one place, which took a little longer to tinker with, the veneer on the part was rubbed through, exposing the lower layers of the substrate. Correct method: do not tilt the grinder when it is at the edge of the part, and do not press it against the surface to avoid damage thin layer veneer and glued edge strip. If you are concerned about accidentally ruining your work, sand the edge pads flush by hand using 220 or finer grit sandpaper.
You can also cut off the excess veneer with a chisel, pressing it to the surface of the part with a flat edge, and finally sand it with 220 sandpaper.
How to keep a surface flat
Potential problem: When gluing a board made of logs of the same thickness, it is not easy to achieve a perfectly flat and flat surface with invisible gluing lines. And if you move the grinder back and forth for a long time along the glue line, trying to smooth out irregularities, you can get an even worse result - the uneven gluing lines turn into noticeable grooves.
Correct method: grinders (especially belt grinders) are not the best the best remedy for leveling surfaces. When gluing the board, carefully check all the glue lines and correct the position of the individual log boards before the glue sets.
If the problem cannot be eliminated in this way, then after drying the shield, using the eye gauge, determine the boundaries of the strip, the width of which is approximately twice the width of the sole of your grinder on both sides of the glue seam, and process the surface gradually, moving the tool in zigzags across the glue line so that above it no depression formed.
How to keep your profile clear
Potential Problem: You are confident that you can hold the grinder at the same angle to cut all the grooves on the profile part. Unfortunately, the lines of the profile have lost their clarity, and flat areas have appeared on convex places.
Correct method: for simple profiles (e.g. fillets or fillets), make a profile sanding block out of dense foam, shaping it to the desired shape band saw and gluing on sandpaper (some types of glue dissolve the foam).
Another way to achieve excellent result: divide complex profile into several simple parts and process each of them with a separate profile block of the corresponding shape. This is not a very fast path, but it does guarantee the sharpness of the lines and the smoothness of the curved profile surfaces.