From the very beginning of my work in the workshop, I faced the problem of removing dust after work. The only way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a noticeable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in the hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop exacerbated the problem. Some solution was spraying water before sweeping and using a respirator. However, these are only half measures. The water freezes in winter unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some part is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all the nooks and crannies can be crawled through with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust from there.
In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.
However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of work (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust, which greatly exceeds the calculated values, will greatly affect the resource of the vacuum cleaner. You need something more specialized here.
There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in a workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found on thematic forums interesting solution- use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a conventional household vacuum cleaner. All of the above problems of household vacuum cleaners are solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to a standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some build cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, and still others from plywood and whatever they can imagine. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.
The principle of operation is simple - the air flow is twisted in a cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air by centrifugal force. At the same time, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the cleaned air comes out through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.
One of frequent problems in the work of cyclones is the so-called "roundabout". This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a speed of the air flow generated by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. You need to reduce the speed a little and the "carousel" will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage is pushed into the container most from the "carousel" and takes its place. And in the second model of plastic cyclones this carousel practically does not exist. To eliminate air leakage, I missed the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.
I decided to take a larger container for collecting dust so that it was less often necessary to take out the garbage. I bought a barrel of 127 liters, produced, it seems, in Samara - the size is what you need! I am going to carry the barrel to the trash like a grandmother string bag - on another cart, so as not to overstrain.
Next is the choice of layout. Some people install the dust collector stationary and lead the ducts to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the desired location. I wanted to make a mobile installation on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one block.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose an arrangement in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, taking up a minimum area. It was decided to cook the body of the installation from metal. Frame made of shaped pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.
With a vertical arrangement, there is a possibility of overturning. To reduce this likelihood, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.
The tangible weight of the trolley is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure is not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But that was not required.
In order to achieve the verticality of the rods, it was necessary to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment, it was possible to achieve accurate setting of the corners.
It is convenient to move the trolley, holding on to the vertical rods, therefore, strengthened their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.
The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame with clamps.
In the upper part of the boom there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner. Further, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and wooden planks will be fixed with self-tapping screws.
That is, in fact, the whole frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Goggles and a welded face mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and bulky outerwear restricts movement. But the task is completed. In addition, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.
I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at temperatures not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in frost, if only the paint was not on water based and there was no condensation on the parts. And if the paint is with a hardener, then do not steam at all.
I found an old, slightly thickened Hammerayt jar in the zagashniki, which I used to paint a horizontal bar in the summer cottage -. The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerayt added some regular degreaser to it to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began to paint.
In the summer, this paint dried in one hour. It is difficult to say how much it dried in winter, but when I returned to the workshop the next evening the paint was dry. True without the promised hammer effect. Probably, the degreaser is to blame, and not the negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The finish is both look and feel reliable. Perhaps it is not in vain that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.
The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is rather flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into the plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads can occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the fastening of the filter to the barrel must be strengthened. People have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, an additional stiffening frame for the filter is assembled. The designs are very diverse, but the idea is something like this:
I approached this in a slightly different way. A holder for pipes of a suitable diameter was welded onto one of the rods.
In this holder, I clamp the hose, which is responsible for all the twists and tugs. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any stress. Now the unit can be pulled straight behind the hose without fear of damage.
I decided to fix the barrel with lashing straps. When I was choosing locks in a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter lashing strap with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and a naked Russian-made "frog" -type lock lying next to it would cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technologies lies.
Experience has shown that this mounting method has an important advantage. The fact is that on the forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole in the hose and the barrel shrank under the influence of the vacuum. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, the barrel did not shrink completely, but only in one place below the hoop there was a dent. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent itself straightened with a click.
In the upper part of the unit there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner
As a household vacuum cleaner, I acquired a bagless, almost two kilowatt monster. I was just thinking, and at home this would be useful to me.
Buying a vacuum cleaner on an ad ran into some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. The people sell used things without a guarantee, with a depleted part of the resource, shortcomings in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, it would be some kind of common things, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the term of placing ads, this trade sometimes drags on for years. And one has only to start bargaining and call an adequate price, as you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I still found for myself great option for 800 rubles. Famous brand, 1900 watts, built-in cyclone filter (already the second in my system) and one more fine filter.
I couldn’t think of anything more elegant to fasten it than to press it down with a lashing strap. In principle, it holds securely.
I had to be a little clever with the connection of the hoses. As a result, we have such an installation. And it works!
Usually, when you read reviews from the first use of such gizmos, people are choking with delight. Here's something similar and I experienced it when I first turned it on. No joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone walks in street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!
I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it lead only to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me for a couple of light movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!
We managed to collect in the barrel what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom. During operation of the device, due to the translucency of the filter, it is possible to observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was an insignificant amount of it and these were especially light and volatile fractions.
I am very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. We can say that I am entering a new era.
Advantages of my design:
1. Takes up the minimum area, due only to the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be dragged and pulled by the hose without fear of pulling out the filter.
3. The drum is protected from crushing when the inlet is clogged.
After some time using the installation, I still faced the problem of lack of barrel rigidity.
I got a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but sucks like a beast - sucks in stones, nuts, screws, tears off the plaster and pulls out bricks from the masonry))
This vacuum cleaner slammed the blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! The tight girth of the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have a camera with me, it's a pity. But it looks like this:
On the thematic forums, they warn about such a possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, pretty crumpled, to the dacha to store the water. She is not capable of more.
There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy instead plastic barrel metal. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my setup - diameter 480, height 800. A surface search on the Internet did not give any result.
2. Self-assembly the box the right size made of 15 mm plywood. This is more real.
The box was assembled on self-tapping screws. Sealed the joints with double-sided foam tape.
The cart had to be altered a little - to digest the rear clamp for a square tank.
The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows a waste bag to be placed in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it an order of magnitude cleaner (tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). The old barrel did not allow this.
The cover was sealed with foamed insulation for windows
The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary interference to seal the lid on the foam pad. I wrote a little higher about pricing policy on these frog locks. But I had to fork out.
It worked well. Nice, functional, reliable. How I love.
This is a video of the "Lawyer Egorov" channel about how in five minutes from a bucket and two corners fan pipe assemble a homemade full-fledged cyclone. In other words, a separator for shavings, sawdust and other debris.
If a household vacuum cleaner was used in a workshop or when renovating an apartment, then its dust collector will quickly fill up and work will have to be interrupted. But using the Cyclone, you can forget about replacing the dust bag for years. This separator is in service for the second year, and the author of the development is not overjoyed at it. In just two minutes, make sure that the title of this video is not exaggerated, and a full-fledged separator can be assembled in your garage in just a couple of minutes.
For greater ease of use in the Cyclone workshop, it can be installed on a self-made platform in the form of a trolley, the manufacture of which will take at least half an hour. But the separator can be used without it. In the case when it is connected to the chip outlet of a stationary router, planer saw and other equipment that produces sawdust, the cart is not needed at all. But it is very handy when cleaning the workshop. A bucket, two hose cutters and a vacuum cleaner will easily fit under any household machine. By the way, if you plan to do it yourself in a small home workshop unified system dust removal, it is possible that connecting such a separate chip suction to each machine will save you from unnecessary obvious engineering difficulties to solve.
From a circular table equipped with a Cyclone, sawdust almost does not fly out. It is recommended to power the tool and the connected chip suction through one toggle switch. Then, when you turn on the machine, the vacuum cleaner will immediately start working. When making my bow, I used a router, and the dust from it flew in all directions. For this reason, until he made his own Cyclone, the milling cutter tried not to use it. Now there is less debris from the router. For a planer, an angle from a hose of a larger diameter is better.
By placing the camera inside a home-made working Cyclone, you can see how sawdust is sucked into the separator, but cannot escape from it and get into the vacuum cleaner. The idea of a cyclone separator is to force coarsely dispersed dust sucked into the container to fall to the bottom of the container, to prevent this dust from entering the zone from which air is pumped out. Gravity, friction and centrifugal force cause the sawdust to rotate inside the bucket, pressing against its walls, and spiral down to the bottom of the container. As you can see, the idea of a separator is extremely simple and in this primitive construction there is simply nothing to break.
Everyone is accustomed to the fact that such a container has the shape of a cone, but as practice has shown, the separator can be cylindrical. The advantage of the proposed design is that the entrance to the tangential air flow separator is made not through a curved side wall, which is not easy at all, but through a flat cover. And this is much easier and faster to do. In addition, it reduces the dimensions of the structure. The entire structure of the Cyclone is placed on one lid, which allows the Cyclone to be carried by simply removing the lid from one bucket and covering the other.
Unrivaled mobility. So you can consistently fill bucket after bucket with sawdust, and then get rid of the sawdust at once. For example, fill them in compost heap, be heated by them, loading them into the oven long burning, or use them in any other way.
How a homemade cyclone was made
He described his Cyclone in more than detail. It's time to show you how you did it. So, I drilled two holes in the lid. One is in the center of the cover, the other is on the edge, close to the stiffener. This was done with a core drill of a slightly smaller diameter than the polypropylene corner of the fan pipe. In this design, I used corners with a diameter of forty millimeters. Remove burrs and at the same time bore holes for a snug fit of the corner, conveniently wrapping a sheet of skin around the tube. It is important to stop on time here. Do not over-bore the hole. It remains to insert two polypropylene corners into the hole, and a full-fledged Cyclone is ready. As you noticed, I didn't even seal the joints. I inserted the hoses from the vacuum cleaner into the corners, since there are O-rings in the corners the size of the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner, and immediately began to use the separator. All operations did not take more than two minutes.
For the convenience of using the Cyclone and increasing its mobility, I assembled a T-shaped cart. I collected more than half an hour, but with repeated use, this work pays off. I collected the cart from the waste of crooked obsolete plywood. Marked the platform in place. I put a bucket and a vacuum cleaner on a sheet of plywood, marking the dimensions with a pencil.
The sawing table looks ugly, since it was collected from garbage on hastily and these are all temporary solutions. As parallel stop used piece square pipe and two clamps. But, despite the primitiveness of the design, you can work on this homemade product. Set the cutting depth according to the plywood thickness ...
Discussion
- All vacuum cleaners (except for one type) have at least two significant drawbacks. First, they throw back into the room the finest (and most dangerous!) Dust (even water-based ones throw back into the room the finest dust along with the smallest drops of water). Second, during work, these emissions raise the dust in the room into the air. On the Internet, experts indicate that fine dust settles for many hours, and even days! And this fine dust is practically not excreted by the body.
But there is a kind of vacuum cleaners that do not have these drawbacks - these are central (or built-in) vacuum cleaners. These vacuum cleaners, sucking in air, do not feed it back into the room at all, and after cleaning, throw it out of the room (usually outside the building). This, the vacuum cleaner itself does not need to be carried, carried along, because. it is permanently installed in another (utility) room, and special sockets are installed in the treated rooms, which are connected with plastic pipes to the central vacuum cleaner, and a flexible hose with a nozzle tip for collecting dust is connected to these sockets. (a large, durable plastic "bucket"), and its cleaning consists in a very convenient detachment of this container and its emptying, usually once a month. Such vacuum cleaners have long been used in hotels, child care facilities and hospitals. They are also certified for use in everyday life. (I have been using such a vacuum cleaner with pleasure in my country house for 4 years already). - I have done experience in the manufacture of such a cyclone. It turns out that not every bucket is suitable. First, the bucket must be deep enough. The upper part, approximately 15-20 cm high, is the vortex zone. If a mountain of debris reaches it, then the debris will fly directly into the hood. So 12-liter paint buckets are of little use, they are trite to be filled in half (and the shavings, for example, from under the planer are very voluminous) in a minute. Second, the bucket must be rigid. If the inlet pipe is plugged, the vacuum will collapse the bucket, deforming its wall, and the vortex will no longer be cylindrical - the debris will again fly into the hood. I took two paint buckets, slightly different diameters. I cut out the bottom of the larger one, leaving a narrow side - this turned out to be a stiffener. And inserted one into the other. The double wall and collar provide acceptable rigidity, and the total height gives more volume - the bottom bucket is completely filled. Third, the cover should be easily removable. The paint bucket has a self-sealing lid, and even its vacuum sucks. Then you have to pry on with a screwdriver - disassemble. You need to somehow loosen the lid or seat it is possible to cut or bend fragments of the sealing bead. Tightness will still be ensured by vacuum, the lid will suck very tightly.
- I would like to see how this vacuum cleaner gets rid of fine construction dust and how long will it last? Another question?? Is it difficult to find such an empty iron bucket? Let's say we don't have a single hardware store, and ask every friend if he has such a thing)) Well, on the tenth person who says that there is no such bucket! already the search turns into some kind of hassle. And without a real vacuum cleaner, this device will not work. In a word, the result is to find an unnecessary good vacuum cleaner that works more or less, then find the ill-fated iron bucket, hell knows where to buy two dignity of those pipes, put it all in a diplomat and throw it away! Because how to go and buy an industrial one for 6 rubles and not engage in amateur performances. I agree for sawdust this miracle cart will do!
- Good video. Everything is shown clearly, without unnecessary long explanations. I am struggling with my home dry vacuum cleaner Stalt 1600W. As soon as I turn it on for cleaning, a cloud of fine dust flies out of it, then it already works normally. But not suitable for large-scale cleaning of a room, a corridor or something else voluminous. His bag is instantly filled, the bag is not very convenient, because it clogs itself with dust, and knocking out and knocking out branches from it is an unpleasant process. I liked the bucket idea you have. I dreamed that there was water in the bucket at the bottom that would absorb the pollen. Isn't it dangerous to pour some water into it? Will the system close to itself?
greetings to all brain engineers! An important moment during the implementation of their mozgoidey is the observance of cleanliness in the workplace and in the workshop as a whole. This is what is meant for craft of this manual is a simple dust extractor with a screen.
This works homemade so: the incoming polluted air flow spins along the inner wall, because of which heavy particles of dust and debris are separated and fall into the trash can located below. When using a fan, as in my case, with this under the tree there is no need for any separate dust collection system (which requires additional space and food for accommodation, and of course, costs).
At sharing with a purchased vacuum cleaner, this simple brainwashing significantly increases the service life of the vacuum cleaner filters, and reduces the need to periodically empty it, as a rule, a small and troublesome dust receptacle.
NOTE: All dimensions below are based on the trash can I am using. For a different capacity, they will be correspondingly different, and for high-quality functioning debris collector they will have to be counted.
When processing wooden blanks everyone has probably come across the fact that everything around is covered with a large amount of shavings, sawdust and wood dust. To get rid of them at least partially, they use various dust collectors, chip extractors, filters and other devices. Many power tools and machine tools have their own dust collectors, while others have special outlets for connecting a vacuum cleaner.
In home workshops, it will be better to use specials. a vacuum cleaner than a household one. Firstly, the engine in the special. the vacuum cleaner is designed for more than long-term operation, and secondly, as a rule, it is equipped with a hose with a length of 3 m, which greatly simplifies its use with a power tool. And yet, the disadvantage of each vacuum cleaner is a small container for garbage.
How to make a cyclone filter with your own hands
With the goal of somehow simplifying the work of cleaning the vacuum cleaner and reducing the cost of bags, I began to collect information on this issue... Found a description on the Internet different types simple devices in the form of intermediate dust collectors for a vacuum cleaner. Firstly, these are dust collectors in the form of a mini-cyclone. They do a good job of collecting dust in a separate container, preventing it from getting into the vacuum cleaner, which increases the service life of the bags tenfold. The process of cleaning the dust collector from debris is also facilitated. Ready-made fixtures are sold through online stores, but their cost is quite high with a very simple design.
Design. I decided to make a mini cyclone type dust collector myself. The author and developer of this design is considered Bill Pentz from California. Having earned himself a serious allergy to fine wood dust, he subsequently devoted a lot of time and energy to combating both the disease itself and its causes.
The dust collector is a device, the main element of which is an inverted truncated cone inserted bottom into a container for collecting dust. V upper part a tube for connecting to a vacuum cleaner is inserted into the dust collector, and a tube for connecting a hose from the tool is inserted at the side tangentially.
When the vacuum cleaner draws in the air inside the apparatus, vortices are formed, and the debris, moving with the air, is thrown by centrifugal forces to the inner walls of the filter, where they continue to move. But as the cone narrows, the particles collide more often, slow down and, under the influence of gravity, fall into the lower container. And the partially purified air changes direction and exits through a vertically installed pipe and enters the vacuum cleaner.
There are two mandatory requirements for a given construction. This is, firstly, its tightness, otherwise there will be a sharp loss of suction power and air purification quality. And, secondly, the rigidity of the container and the cyclone body itself - otherwise, it strives to flatten.
There are tables on the Internet with drawings of cyclones for particles of various sizes. The cyclone body can be made from galvanized or plastic, or you can choose a ready-made container of a similar shape. For example, I've seen cyclones made on the basis of a traffic cone (necessarily rigid), a plastic flower vase, a tin horn, a large toner tube from a copier, etc. It all depends on what size the cyclone is needed. The larger the particles of debris, the larger the diameter of the tubes for the connected hoses, and the more massive the cyclone itself is.
Bill Pentz points out some of the design features. So, the smaller the cyclone in diameter, the greater the load on the vacuum cleaner. And if the receptacle is low and flat, then there is a likelihood of garbage being sucked out of the receptacle and getting into the vacuum cleaner. When using a container of any shape, it must not be filled up to the top with garbage.
The choice of material. I decided to use as blanks plastic pipes for outdoor sewerage and fittings for them. Of course, it will not be possible to create a full-fledged cone from them, but I was not the first who tried to use them for this purpose. The advantage of this choice is the rigidity of the parts and the tightness of their joints due to the seals. Another plus is that there are various rubber pipe fittings that allow you to easily and tightly connect the vacuum cleaner hose. In addition, if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.
For your own to collect large sawdust and shavings I made a cyclone from a pipe ∅160 mm. I used pipes ∅50 mm as connectors for hoses. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the eccentric adapter from a pipe ∅110 mm to ∅160 mm must necessarily be funnel-shaped. I've seen flat ones, but they won't fit - they won't work, and the debris will get stuck.
Do-it-yourself cyclone work progress
Operating procedure. In the plug for the pipe ∅160 mm and the pipe of the body, I made holes for the bends for the hoses. Then, using a thermal gun, I glued a piece of pipe ∅50 mm into the plug. It should be located in the middle of the cyclone body and be a couple of centimeters below the side tube, so it is better to first glue the longer tube into the plug, and then cut it in place during assembly.
On the Internet, I found complaints that hot melt glue does not stick to the PVC pipe, and advice to weld the parts with a soldering iron and pieces of the pipe itself. I tried it but didn't. Firstly, my glue adhered perfectly, and, secondly, the smell of molten plastic discouraged any desire to weld anything in this way, although the connection may be more durable and neat.
The difficulty of working with hot melt glue is that it does not spread, and the seam in the absence of skills is not very even. I had such a sad experience - to align the seam, I decided to heat it up with a hairdryer. Smooth surface I got a bead of glue, but at the same time the plastic tube itself was deformed, and it had to be thrown away.
In the next step, I glued a spiral to the inner surface of the case, which should direct the air flow down to the dust collector. This solution was recommended by Bill Pentz himself - according to him, it almost doubles the efficiency of the cyclone. A spiral with a height of about 20% of the gap should fit snugly against the body and make one turn with a pitch equal to the diameter of the inlet for the side pipe.
As a material for it, I used a plastic rod, which I heated with a hairdryer and bent in the shape of a spiral (photo 1) and then pasted it into the case (photo 2) using a thermal gun. Then pasted the side tube (photo 3), the inner end of which is directed slightly downward.
As soon as the glue cooled down and hardened, I measured and cut the vertical outlet tube so that it was 2-3 cm below the edge of the side tube, and finally assembled the entire structure.
The garbage container was made of a rigid plastic barrel, to the bottom of which I attached wheels - it turned out to be very convenient for cleaning it (photo 4)... I cut a viewing window on the side of the barrel and closed it with acrylic glass on hot melt glue. From above, reinforced the connection with a plastic ring and bolts. It is convenient to monitor the filling of the container through such a porthole.
I didn't have a barrel lid, and I made it from a piece of countertop that waited a long time in the wings after the sink in the kitchen (photo 5)... On the underside of the tabletop, I chose a groove for the edges of the barrel with a milling cutter and glued a window seal into it for a tight connection (photo 6)... According to the rules, the hole in the lid should be made in the center, but then I would have problems with placing the cyclone in the workshop, so I made a hole with an offset. The lid is attached to the barrel with latches from a long-broken vacuum cleaner. He also used a hose to connect the cyclone. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that it is better to take hoses from vacuum cleaners. If we take, say, corrugated pipe for electrical wiring, when the vacuum cleaner is turned on, a whistle and eerie noise appear.
Do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner
Connecting the cyclone to the instrument. Not all tools have an outlet for a vacuum cleaner. So I decided to make a simple, adjustable holder for the vacuum hose. For him, I made blanks for levers from scraps of plywood (photo 7)... The holder is supplemented with a sewer clamp for fastening the hose (photo 8)... The stand was specially made large in order to be able to fix it with a clamp or hold it with a load. The holder turned out to be convenient - I use it not only for the vacuum cleaner hose, but also for a portable lamp, laser level and support the long workpiece in a horizontal position.
After assembling the cyclone, I conducted several experiments to determine its efficiency. To do this, I sucked in a glass of fine dust, after which I measured its volume that got into the container of the dust collector. As a result, I was convinced that about 95% of all garbage gets into the barrel, and only very fine dust, and even a small amount of it, gets into the vacuum cleaner bag. I am quite satisfied with this result - now I clean the bag 20 times less often, and only from fine dust, which is much easier. And this despite the fact that my design is far from perfect in form and proportion, which, of course, lowers the efficiency.
Wiring. After checking the cyclone's performance, I decided to make a stationary wiring of the hoses around the workshop, since the three-meter hose is certainly not enough, and the vacuum cleaner with the cyclone is bulky and clumsy, it is inconvenient to move them around the workshop every time.
Due to the fact that standard pipes, it was possible to mount such a wiring in an hour. I pushed the vacuum cleaner and the cyclone into the farthest corner, and laid pipes ∅50 mm through the workshop (photo 9).
In the workshop I use a specialized green series BOSCH vacuum cleaner. After four months of operation, it is paired with a cyclone, I can say that in general they are coping with their task. But I would like to slightly increase the suction power (when working with a jigsaw, you have to move the hose almost close to the cutting zone) and reduce the noise level. Since little chips get into the vacuum cleaner itself, there is an idea to make a more powerful impeller and take it outside the workshop to the street.
I can also say that the suction power of the vacuum cleaner dropped a little when using it with a cyclone, but at work this is not very noticeable. There were doubts that static electricity can accumulate on the elements, because the entire structure is plastic, but this practically does not happen, although earlier, when collecting fine dust, the hose had to be grounded.
Of course, when using professional pipelines with large outlets, this diameter is not enough. It is better to take ∅110 mm or more, but then both the vacuum cleaner and the cyclone should be more powerful. However, this is quite enough for my homework.
The vacuum cleaner hose was rigidly fixed on a small pipe bend ∅50 mm and inserted in the right place of the wiring. At the same time, the rest of the wiring exits are closed with plugs rigidly put on short bends. Moving the hose is a snap.
During operation, I ran into one small problem. If a small pebble falls into the hose (my concrete floors have not been repaired for a long time) or another small but heavy object, it moves through the pipes to the vertical section in front of the cyclone and remains there. When such particles accumulate, other debris clings to them and can form a blockage. Therefore, in front of the vertical section of the wiring, I cut a camera from a pipe ∅110 mm with an inspection window. Now all heavy debris is collected there, and by unscrewing the lid, it is easy to get it out. This is very convenient when fasteners or small parts accidentally fall into the vacuum cleaner. here is simple - I unscrew the lid, turn on the vacuum cleaner and use my hand to mix everything that is left in the revision. Small particles immediately fly away into the cyclone tank, while large ones remain and are easily removed. Their number is usually insignificant, but recently I found a missing screwdriver bit in such garbage.
Also, the revision hole can be used to temporarily connect a 100 mm hose. It is enough to unscrew the lid - and we get a finished hole ∅100 mm. Naturally, in this case it is necessary to muffle all other wiring inputs. Flexible adapter can be used to simplify connection (photo 10).
To remotely turn on the vacuum cleaner, next to the hose clamp, I installed a switch (photo 11) and additional. It can be used to connect a power tool, then you will definitely not forget to turn on the vacuum cleaner before using the tool - this often happens to me.
I regularly use all of these devices. I am satisfied with the result - there is noticeably less dust in the workshop, and it is easier to clean. During this time, I collected several bags of sawdust, and very little debris accumulates in the vacuum cleaner. I want to test a cyclone for collecting small garden debris and dust when cleaning a concrete floor.
I think this design very useful and affordable for making at home.
Sergey Golovkov, Rostov region, Novocherkassk
Quite often after of various kinds work remains a large number of fine dust and debris that can only be removed with good vacuum cleaner... A simple home apparatus is not suitable for this. It is necessary to use a high-power industrial vacuum cleaner. You can make a filter for it yourself.
People who constantly work in the construction industry need to clean up a large amount of various small debris and dust. It could be old plaster, the remains of foam, drywall or wood dust. Such debris is capable of settling in a thick layer throughout the room. It is very difficult to sweep with a broom or wipe this dust with a rag, because due to the large size of the room, such cleaning will take a long time.
The use of a vacuum cleaner in this case is optimal. An ordinary product that is used at home is not suitable for these purposes. The ingress of chips or sawdust will clog the vacuum cleaner or even disable it. Also, a large amount of fine dust will quickly clog the dust container, which will need to be cleaned every 20 minutes.
But construction vacuum cleaners are large, inconvenient to use, maintain and have a very high cost. For this reason, some home craftsmen have learned to improve the capabilities of their household product by equipping it with a specialized cyclone filter. These dustbags can be purchased at hardware store or make at home with your own hands. On the Internet, you can find many drawings of dust collectors for woodworking workshops.
Experts point out the following advantages of cyclone filters:
- no need to constantly buy disposable bags and containers for collecting fine dust;
- small size;
- quiet operation of the device;
- when the filter housing is made of transparent plastic, it is possible to monitor its contamination;
- high efficiency.
How the cyclone filter works
The cyclone consists of several parts:
- pipe branch;
- frame;
- dust collector;
- a chamber with a membrane filter;
- intake fan.
Dirty air enters the cylindrical body of the product through the nozzle. The branch pipe is located tangentially to the side walls of the body, so the air flow around the cylinder walls is twisted in a spiral. Due to the centrifugal force, dirt particles are pressed against the body of the device, and then fall into a special dust collector. The remaining air with dust particles enters another chamber, which is equipped with several membrane filters. As a result, all the collected dust enters the intake fan.
The least contaminated membrane compartment, which must be cleaned only after cleaning. The collected dust is simply removed from a special drive, and the device is again ready to perform its duties.
Vacuum cleaners with a similar principle of operation are much cheaper than water vacuum cleaners, but more expensive than membrane ones. For this reason, home craftsmen assemble the cyclone on their own, and then connect it to a household vacuum cleaner.
Do-it-yourself cyclone from scrap materials
It is quite simple to assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. It is often required when processing wood. Together with a fraser or an electric plane, a membrane-type vacuum cleaner clogs up very quickly, and it needs to be cleaned often, which greatly distracts from production process... When a master is engaged in carpentry in small room, then fine sawdust creates a lot of problems... For this purpose, a cyclone was designed and manufactured from simple details, which is not inferior to its factory counterparts.
Materials for making
To make homemade cyclone, the following materials will be needed:
Assembling a cyclone for a household vacuum cleaner
A special bracket is fixed on the lid of the plastic container for a small air filter which can be made from metal strip or corners. The air filter must fit very tightly against plastic cover capacity. Otherwise, dusty air will penetrate into the outlet. Further, the outlet pipe must be hermetically fixed on top of the cover. Through it, the purified air will flow into the household vacuum cleaner. Experts advise leaving the membrane filter of the household product. This will help keep the fan free of dirt and not weaken the air flow.
Near the air filter, it is worth putting a special dust collector, which is collected from thin metal sheet. This element is able to fight off small particles of dirt that do not fall off under the influence of gravity, which allows you to clean the filter much less often. The same job can be done by an old lady's stocking, which protects the filter pores from large and light particles of dust.
The homemade inlet must be placed tangentially to the walls of the case and tilted slightly towards the bottom of the device. The dirty air will immediately be sent in the right direction. In order for the walls of the container not to collapse from the vacuum environment, they must be well reinforced with a metal strip. Plastic containers are not able to withstand heavy loads, because the material is rather thin. Since the device is large in size, it is worth making a plywood frame, which does not hurt to equip it with small swivel wheels.
Next, you need to qualitatively fix the assembled filter and household vacuum cleaner to the frame. The fastener is obliged to ensure quick dismantling in order to clean the container from the collected debris. At the end of the work, you need to test the device. At the bottom plastic container all rubbish should remain.
How to make an aquafilter for a vacuum cleaner
When a person doesn't need a professional construction vacuum cleaner, you can make a water chip filter in another way. For example, it can be made from a regular traffic cone. Any plastic container with tight walls and a well-closing lid will serve as a dust collector. It is worth noting that plastic container acts as an air system, and the leak is bad for the power of the device. It is necessary to cut the support square from the traffic cone. According to the resulting hole shape, you need to cut out the top cover from plywood.
An outlet pipe is fixed to the top cover with the help of a sealant, which should be made from a regular sewer pipe. This part must be lowered to the middle of the building cone. When it is raised higher, then the swirl of the dust will be wrong. If the outlet pipe goes down too low, then dirt will be sucked into it.
The narrow section of the traffic cone is also sealed into a plywood circle that attaches to the trash bin. It is worth checking the tightness of all seams and joints several times. An inlet pipe is placed near the upper edge of the cone, into which dirty air will enter.
Next, you need to check the correct assembly of the dust collector. The outlet must be connected to the inlet of the household vacuum cleaner using the factory hose. Therefore, the branch pipe should be selected in accordance with the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. The waste collection hose is connected to the product inlet. A test run is required. When the device is assembled correctly, all debris will accumulate at the bottom of the plastic container, and the membrane filter of the household vacuum cleaner must remain clean.
You can make a cone shape with your own hands. For example, it can be made of metal tin, after having calculated the scan of the product. An old galvanized metal bucket may also work.