What to fix osb. OSB sheathing

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and is widely used in the construction of frame houses and the decoration of buildings and structures. OSB boards are sheathed on interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction, when the board acts as a structural material and serves to reinforce the walls of the building, or when it acts as a facade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by a low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will consider the question: how to fix the OSB boards to the wall from its outer side.

For cladding exterior walls, it is necessary to use boards with the OSB-3 brand, specially made for environments with high humidity. About how the types of OSB sheets differ can be found on the page: OSB sheets, their types, characteristics, sizes.

When installing OSB boards to external walls, the crate is used for the following purposes:

alignment of the plane of the wall;
creation of a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB plate;
prevention of deformation of the slab caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over the insulation using the crate

The slab is fastened to the wall using a crate, which is made of a wooden block, or metal profile. Technologies for mounting OSB boards on a wall with wooden crate and a crate made of a metal profile do not fundamentally differ. When choosing a bar, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed bar of 40-50 mm, then it will not turn out and will not lead after drying, which will positively affect the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, special metal plates (suspensions) are used. Before attaching the suspensions, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which subsequently will ensure the joint of the plates right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB plate in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to fasten the crate.
Hangers are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to fix the crate over the insulation.

After that, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the crate is mounted.

It should be noted that a vapor barrier is not needed outside the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely go outside.

Wall with a crate. Insulation is laid between the crate and the wall.

After fixing the crate, you can proceed with the installation of OSB boards. For wall cladding, a plate from 9 to 12 mm thick is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. OSB boards are fastened to a crate of wooden beams with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet. To the crate from a metal profile - to self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the crate weighs over the insulation, and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, maximum efficiency of the heater is achieved. In addition, between the bars of the crate is air gap, through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also increases its characteristics. More detailed information about the ventilated facade technology is in the article: ventilated facades, types of ventilated facades.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses with a wooden frame, two main approaches are used: fastening OSB sheets to the frame through the crate and fastening OSB sheets directly to the frame without crates. Consider the case of fastening OSB boards using a crate.

When with inside The walls are attached to the frame with strong plates, which provide good rigidity of the wall structure, then outside between the frame and the OSB plate, a crate can be made. The crate forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the racks of the frame. On top of the racks and insulation, a wind- and waterproofing membrane is attached, which easily passes moisture. Next, the crate is attached and OSB boards are attached to it.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with a crate.

With this design, the plates can be left unfinished, you can paint them, plaster or fix almost any facade material on them.

When fixing OSB slabs without using lathing, the maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to fix the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB plate, then mount the crate to create a ventilation gap and facade material, such as siding, boards or decorative panels, on it. OSB boards are fastened to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB from the outside of the house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformations of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

The technology of fastening OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of crates.

For example, when building a frame house according to Finnish technology There is no crate between the frame and OSB foxes. More details about this technology can be found in the article: construction of a frame house using the "Platform" technology.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the variant with a wooden frame. When fixing the plates directly to the metal frame, use self-tapping screws for metal 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for mounting OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there is general rules, observance of which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the sheathing structure.

Self-tapping screws should be screwed at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate.
A gap of 10 mm is required between the bottom plate and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
The plates cannot be butted close to each other, a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the plate can expand freely from moisture changes.
All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or a circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, you can use finished sizes and OSB sheets to come to the furniture workshop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a panel saw evenly and accurately to size.

Wall cladding with OSB boards

The technology of sheathing the walls of the OSB house with slabs from the outside of the wall. How to fix OSB boards on walls with and without wooden and metal lathing.

How to properly fix the osb plate on the roof

Proper laying of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself

For laying OSB on walls, plates of various thicknesses and productions are used. The selection of material is made in accordance with the operating conditions of the premises. Depending on what climatic loads the house will carry, the type of OSB used is selected. It is worth noting that laying OSB 3 makes sense when high demands are placed on the material for moisture resistance and strength.

If the plates are used for sheathing small room, it is allowed to use OSB 3 with a thickness of 10 mm. In other cases, experts advise using sheets with a thickness of 12 mm. Mounting of plates is allowed along or across the structural beams. In the case of horizontal installation, the plates must be provided with stiffeners under all joints and free edges. The slabs can be provided with a frame structure on one or both sides. The interaxal distance between the beams should be 40 ÷ 60 cm. The expansion gap between the walls and near the openings should be at least 3 mm wide.

The boards are fastened with nails exceeding the thickness of the boards by about 2.5 times. If spiral nails are used, their length must be at least 51 mm. In case of using ring: 45 mm ÷ 75 mm. Nails are hammered at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge of the plate. Fasteners are placed every 30 cm on intermediate supports and every 15 cm on OSB 3 joints.

The principle of laying OSB 3 on the floor

Hard and load-resistant boards should be used for laying the floor. Most suitable laying OSB-3. If the sheets will be mounted on a concrete screed, then the required layer thickness should be 6 ÷ 9 mm. If the slabs will be laid directly on the logs, then the layer thickness should be 15 ÷ 22 mm (in the case of slabs in one layer) and 9 ÷ 12 mm (in the case of a double layer). The center distance between the bars should be 60 cm. The distance between the lags varies depending on the thickness of the plates used.

In the case of laying OSB-3 close to the ground, care must be taken to create a waterproofing layer on the outside of the floor. It is also necessary not to forget to provide drainage holes.

In order to calculate the required number of plates, you need to add to the area of \u200b\u200bthe room required amount material for undercuts (no more than 7%). After that, the resulting number is divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet and determine the required amount of material.

Plates are laid perpendicular to the axis of the bars. When laying sheets, a temperature gap should be left in order to allow the plates to work. The size of the provided gap is most often 3 mm, but in the case of laying plates between the walls, 12 mm should be left. The plates are connected on logs, or, if necessary, on an additional support or with a bracket.

As well as in the case of wall laying, the nails used for wall fastening can be ring or spiral, with the same dimensions. The center distance between the fasteners should be 30 cm on the supports and 15 cm on the material joints. It is acceptable to use glue to increase the rigidity of the floor.

Basics of the correct laying of OSB 3 on the roof

To lay OSB-3 on the roof, you must first prepare the surface well - it must be as even as possible. Irregularities in the future can spoil the appearance of the coating. If laying is done on unheated premises in the future, then you need to think about sufficient ventilation in advance. To do this, it is necessary to provide for the presence of holes, the number of which must be at least 1/150 of the total area. It is also necessary to dry well the sheets used for coating in case of inadvertent wetness.

The slabs should be laid along the bars, while paying attention to the fact that each slab is located on at least two bars and connected on a support. If necessary, additional supports can be created. When laying the plates, it is necessary to provide a gap of 3 mm to prevent the consequences of temperature changes.

The requirements for fasteners are the same as in the case of wall and ceiling sheathing: spiral 51 mm nails or ring nails with a run-up of length from 45 mm to 75 mm. Nails are driven in every 30 cm on rafter legs ah and every 15 cm - on the joints of the plates. The distance from the edge of the slab to the nail is at least 1 cm. The center distance of the rafters is 60 cm (9 ÷ 12 cm thickness of the slabs) and 100 cm (15 ÷ 18 cm).

If there is a chimney, the sheets must be moved away from it in accordance with Building Regulations.

During the installation of OSB 3 on the roof, all safety rules at height must be observed.

Installation of OSB roof sheathing with shingles

Before installing the roof sheathing, make sure that the rafter legs or the sheathing form a flat surface. Crooked or uneven rafter legs will affect the final look of the roof and make installation difficult. Rain-soaked slabs should be left to dry completely and protected from biological corrosion before tiles, roofing sheets or other coverings are laid. Moisture should not exceed 20% of dry weight. Cold attics should be well ventilated. Ventilation openings must be at least 1/150 of the entire horizontal surface on the roof.

It is necessary to leave a gap of about 3-4 mm between OSB sheets, because. due to changes in temperature and humidity, linear expansion of the sheets occurs. The absence of a gap can lead to deformation of the base. The slab must be laid on at least two supports, and the joints of the slabs must also fall on the supports.

The required thickness of OSB sheets is determined by the project. The designer determines what thickness of plywood should be used over the step lathing, depending on the planned loads (the lathing step is also determined by the designer). Rafter legs, step, section and fastening design are also determined based on the project.

An example of a preliminary assessment of the dependence of the distances between the battens and the thickness of the OSB slab used for roofs with a slope of more than 20 degrees, a rafter pitch of 600 mm and a snow load of 100 kg/sq.m.:

If there are openings for chimneys in the roof structure, then the roof sheathing must be moved away from the chimney by a distance that complies with the accepted Building Regulations. To fasten the boards, spiral nails with a length of 51 mm or ring nails with a length of 45 mm to 75 mm should be used. Nails are driven in every 30 cm on rafter legs or battens and every 15 cm on slab joints. The distance from the nail to the edge of the slab should not be less than 1 cm.

OSB boards also work well with prefabricated roof trusses. Prefabricated trusses speed up the roof construction process and simultaneously provide a surface for roof sheathing, insulation and finishing ceiling. In most cases, trusses are supported on external walls - without intermediate supports on internal walls. This option increases the load on farms in case long distance between the walls, but gives more freedom to choose the placement of internal partitions.

How to properly fix the osb plate on the roof

Proper installation of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB on your own Proper installation of OSB-3 (OSB) - how to work with OSB yourself To lay OSB on walls, plates of various thicknesses are used ...

OSB APPLICATION GUIDE

OSB GUIDE TO ORIENTED STRAND BOARD (OSB)

1. Plate orientation:

This structure provides a high level of: Dimensional constancy; Fracture resistance (flexural strength); Shear strength inside the slab.

inscriptions (marking) on the edge of the plate. On cut panels

the longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the marking on the panel surface.

Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to observe the correct orientation of the slab specified by the designer (especially in single-layer building structures).

2. Acclimatization of plates and protection against water and humidity

A room with constant heating 6 - 9%. Premises with periodic heating 9 - 10%. Room without heating 16-18%

OSB boards during their storage and use must be protected from water.

After installation on the outside of the building, on the walls and roof, it must be covered with appropriate insulation to protect against adverse weather conditions. The edges of OSB 3 boards (especially at the edges) are exposed to high humidity, may swell moderately (in accordance with the norm). In this case, before installing the final elements (e.g. asphalt shingles on the roof), it is necessary to sand evenly the joints of the slabs (to ensure flat surface). To prevent damage to OSB boards, it is necessary to eliminate excessive moisture, which can be caused by:

Using materials that are too damp or wet;
Installation on non-dried objects built using "wet" processes;
Errors during insulation work (water leakage into the building, improper installation of a vapor barrier, etc.);
Insufficient weather protection ( external walls and the roof must be protected with appropriate insulation immediately after installation).

3. Cutting, milling, drilling

feed used when processing solid wood. The slabs must be fixed in such a way that the slabs do not vibrate during processing. It is allowed to cut slabs with the use of hand power tools

4. Mounting plates

The minimum diameter (section) of the staples should be 1.5 mm with a length of 50 mm; For OSB board, you can use nails as for solid wood, screws or staples. When mounting load-bearing structures, it is necessary to use connecting elements made of stainless materials (galvanized or stainless steel). Strengthening the strength of the connection can be achieved by using special nails; circular or helical (plain nail nails are not recommended.) . The length of the connecting elements must be at least 2.5 times the thickness of the board to be attached, but in no case less than 50 mm; the distance from the connecting element to the edge of the slab must correspond to seven times the diameter of the connecting element (i.e. when using nails with a diameter of 3 mm - at least 20 mm); the maximum distance between nails driven into the edge of the slab should not exceed 150 mm; the maximum distance between nails hammered in the middle of the slab should not exceed 300 mm; plates with even edges are mounted on supports (ceiling frame, ceiling beam); fastening of OSB boards of small thickness must be started from the middle of their upper part and evenly continue fastening in the direction to the sides and down (to prevent swelling and deflection of the board).

5. Dilation gaps

(lat. dilatatio - expansion)

When installing the plates as a supporting structure of "floating" floors, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 15 mm wide when they are joined to the wall.
When installing plates as wall cladding, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 10 mm wide when they are joined to the foundation;

If the length of the surface on which the slabs are mounted exceeds 12 m, it is necessary to leave expansion gaps between the slabs with a width of 25 mm every 12 m.

plates with even edges - it is necessary to leave gaps between them at least 3 mm wide when joining.
plates with milled edges ("comb - groove"). When docking, dilatation gaps are formed by themselves.

Expansion gaps 3 mm wide must also be left when joining plates with other structures, for example, with a window frame, doors, etc.

6. Surface protection and paint application

paint manufacturers. For interior surfaces to be painted, we recommend using sanded boards. To paint the surface of the boards, you can use the usual colorless or colored paints used for painting wood.

7. Application

A2 - Roof detail with prefabricated wet environment

B1 - Asphalt roof detail

B2 - Asphalt roof detail for wet environment

C - Detail of the outer load-bearing wall

D1 - Detail of internal load-bearing wall

D2 - Detail of the internal partition

E1 - Floor detail with "light" floating floor

E2 - Floor detail with "heavy" floating floor

F - Tables for preselection of slabs

G - Basic principles for the use of OSB boards in wooden structures and buildings

h2 - General principles for creating ceiling and floor structures

h3 - General principles for creating structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

p - General principles for creating pitched roof structures

8. Basic principles for the use of OSB boards in wooden structures and buildings.

damage resistance biological factors. In order to ensure a long service life and reliability of new wooden structures and buildings, it is necessary to analyze all designed structures in terms of possible diffusion and condensation of water vapor or the ratio of temperature and humidity, as well as the corresponding stable moisture content of the wood, for compliance with the requirements that establish environmental parameters for the use of OSB boards .

wood moisture chart

The main difference in the possible limitation of the influence of water vapor penetrating through the structure follows from the method of analyzing the properties of the vapor barrier layer. Vapor barrier building structure limiting the penetration of water vapor from environment inside the building structure, due to the equalization of temperature and water vapor pressure in the internal and external environment. For

this process, as a result of a decrease in temperature below a certain value, condensation of water vapor may occur. The resulting condensate can have a negative effect on the properties

building structure or reduce its service life. Limiting the penetration of water vapor into the structure means limiting diffusion (penetration of water vapor caused by partial pressure) and moisture flow (penetration of water vapor caused by air current). In the specialized literature, one can find a classification of materials for a vapor barrier layer according to the equivalent diffusion thickness. The equivalent diffusion thickness Sd (m) determines the air gap, which provides the same resistance to water vapor as the corresponding layer of the building structure.

The Sd value is not the diffusion resistance value of the structure layer given in m/s-1). A significant increase in moisture in the outer layer compared to the calculated model at the site of damage to materials is caused by the spatial distribution of moisture and their unequal properties.

The difference in material properties can be caused by the following:

violation of technological discipline
poor-quality connection of certain types of materials and their contact with openings and surrounding structures
compound aging

OSB-2 Carrier boards for use in dry environments (12% humidity resistance)
OSB-3 Carrier boards for use in humid environments (24% humidity resistance)

OSB boards are classified as OSB-2 and OSB-3 according to the standard.

It is characterized by moisture content in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20°C. and relative humidity of the ambient air, exceeding the value of 65% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 12%.

It is characterized by the content of humidity in structural materials, which corresponds to a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of the ambient air exceeding 85% for no more than a few weeks a year. The average stable moisture content of most conifers does not exceed 20%.

It is characterized by climatic conditions that contribute to an increase in the moisture content of materials compared to humidity class 2.

9. Ceiling structures

Plates with even edges should be mounted on load-bearing beams with an expansion gap of 3 mm.
Plates with tongue-and-groove edges must be glued together with glue (for example, polyurethane) to increase rigidity.
Mount all plates in such a way that their longitudinal axis is perpendicular to the beams.
Check that all faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on the beams.
The width of the expansion gap along the perimeter of the walls must be at least 15 mm.

Fasteners:

Nails 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, minimum 50 mm, with helix or grooves if possible.
Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm. (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm).
The maximum distance between nails is 150 mm at the joints of the boards, 300 mm at the plane of the board.
Nails are driven in at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab.

Under the wooden ceilings of the first floor, located above the base, waterproofing is laid directly on the base to protect against moisture (film). Protect during installation. ceiling structures from the possible effects of rain. When the ceiling is open, holes must be made in it for the drainage of water. Recommended max. center distance between racks: min. the recommended plate thickness is 15 mm. 18 mm. 22 mm. The center distance between the uprights is 300 mm. 400 mm. 600 mm. 800 mm.

Center distances between racks are indicative. Dimensioning is carried out taking into account the length of the slab and a certain exact value plate loads.

10. Floor constructions on the bearing crate

The installation principles are the same as in the case of ceiling installation. When installing the boards, first lay a soundproof layer on the bearing bars (pillows) to absorb the sound of footsteps.

11. Designs of "floating" floors

The floor structure consists of one OSB plate (OSB, OSB), "comb-groove" thickness. 18 - 22 mm or from two plates (recommended) thickness. 12 - 18 mm (min. 9 mm). The spreading floor surface can consist of a single slab

OSB, for floors without high demands shape constancy, or in cases where no concentrated load is expected (in places above the tongue-and-groove connection). Otherwise, use a two- or multi-layer floor structure.

The slabs are laid on soundproofing to absorb the sound of footsteps (rigid mineral wool or polystyrene mats intended for use in floor constructions). Separate layers of plates are laid in mutually perpendicular directions and connected by gluing along the surface or by screws. When using screws, we recommend connecting the boards in both directions or laying an intermediate layer between them (extruded microporous polyethylene or PSUL sealing tape) to prevent possible creaking.

12. General recommended principles for the creation of structures for external and internal load-bearing walls

OSB boards used for walls are mounted vertically or horizontally. When installing load-bearing walls, it is recommended to use boards that correspond in length to the height of the walls (to facilitate the determination of the required dimensions and the installation of boards).
When installing plates horizontally, it is necessary to place strips of plates or stiffeners under all joints and free edges.
The slabs can be fitted with a wooden frame structure on one or both sides. Plates are allowed to be mounted on the outer and inner sides of load-bearing walls.

To prevent possible water absorption, the expansion gap between the frame and concrete foundation must be at least 25 mm wide. Expansion gaps can be formed by installing the entire wooden

structures on wedge linings, and the entire gap under the carrier wooden frame fill cement mortar. If the frame is installed directly on the foundation, then it is necessary to provide its chemical protection and raise the plates above the foundation level to a height of at least 25 mm. Between walls and along the perimeter of door and window openings an expansion gap of at least 3 mm must be left.

Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, at least 50 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves.
Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the board, at least 45 mm (recommended screws with a minimum size of 4.2 x 45 mm).
Nails are hammered at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the slab, in load-bearing walls– at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fixing material (at least 20 mm)
The recommended thickness of the plates for sheathing the walls of the frame is at least 12 mm with the racks located every 400 - 625 mm.

Thermal and waterproofing plates:

As an additional heat and sound insulation, it is recommended to use mineral wool from the front side. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the method of fastening this facade system.
When using slabs for wall cladding with outer side it is necessary to take into account the diffusion resistance of the plate to the penetration of water vapor. On the other hand, slabs mounted on the inside of the wall can serve as a structural element with diffusion resistance (provided that the joints of the slabs and structural elements are sealed with appropriate insulating tape). When using tongue-and-groove plates, the tape can be replaced by gluing the tongue in the groove with glue (PUR, PVA).
The junction of the lower edge of the wooden structure with the foundation must be covered with a protective waterproofing compound (for example, based on bitumen emulsions).

plate thickness; 9 - 12 mm. 12 - 15 mm. 15 - 22 mm.
At the edges of the plate; 100 mm. 125 mm. 150 mm.
On the surface of the plate; 200 mm. 250 mm. 300 mm.

For load-bearing walls, the center distance between fasteners is determined by static analysis.

13. General recommended principles for creating pitched roof structures

Before starting the installation of slabs on the roof structure, it is necessary to check the location of the rafters in the axes, whether they have a curvature and distinctive dimensions. Curved and other sized rafters adversely affect the properties and appearance of the roof.
The slabs are connected in such a way that the faces perpendicular to the longitudinal axis lie on supports (rafters, slats, etc.) along their entire length. Therefore, it is recommended to choose the location of the rafters in modules with a span of 833 mm or 625 mm.
In the case of a different or greater span (> 833 mm), in order to improve the surface of the roof structure, it is necessary to choose the option with a longitudinal lathing of battens or boards with a width of 80 - 100 mm. Using rails mounted with a pitch (in axes) of 417 or 625 mm, it is possible to achieve a reduction in the thickness of the slab (depending on the load).

Plates with flat edges

Between the plates there should be an expansion gap 3 mm wide.
To level the roof surface and accelerate the temperature equalization of the slabs, it is recommended to strengthen the longitudinal edges of the slabs with steel H-shaped brackets.

Plates with a tongue-and-groove face

To strengthen the roof structure and increase the diffusion resistance of the structural layer, glue the edges with glue (eg PUR, PVA).

Nails with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the plate, i.e. 50 - 75 mm, if possible, with a spiral or grooves, galvanized or stainless steel, with a diameter of at least 3 mm.
Screws with a length of 2.5 times the thickness of the slab, but not less than 45 mm (recommended screws with a size of at least 4.2 x 45 mm).
Nails are hammered at a distance exceeding 7 times the diameter of the fixing material, but not less than 20 mm.

Environmental influences (temperature and humidity)

The boards are used in the roof structure as a material with diffusion resistance. In rooms with a normal air humidity of 50% (residential and office premises, etc.), they can be used in structures without a vapor barrier film, provided that the expansion gaps of the boards are sealed with an appropriate insulating tape or gluing tongue-and-groove joints.

Environmental protection

Center distance between rafters; 600 mm. 800 mm. 1000 mm.
Min. recommended plate thickness; 12 mm. 15 mm. 18 mm.
Recommended distance between fasteners on the plane of the slab and the edge of the slab; 150 mm.
Roof slope 40° or more - 150
Roof pitch 30° - 40° - 200
Roof pitch< 30°- 300
Nails [mm] 3.1 x 50

The dimensions are determined based on the adjusted value of the static load on the slabs. Boards that have been exposed to water (e.g. rain) must be dried before installation and roofing.

14. General principles of storage and warehousing

OSB boards (OSB, OSB)

For storage of plates it is most convenient to provide a closed storage room with good ventilation.

It is also possible to store the slabs under a canopy in such a way that they are not exposed to the risk of atmospheric precipitation.

If it is not possible to store under a canopy, it is necessary to prepare a flat horizontal surface and provide insulation from the ground with a layer of film, as well as wrap the pallet with film.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) must be laid flat on a flat surface.

OSB boards (OSB, OSB) should not be in contact with the ground to avoid possible contact with water.

Incorrect laying can lead to deformation and damage to OSB boards (OSB, OSB). When placing several packs one above the other, the wooden slats must be in the same vertical plane.

OSB protection (OSB, OSB)

The top of the packs must be covered with a protective panel to prevent mechanical damage. If the plates are outdoors, they must be protected with a moisture-proof coating.

During transportation, OSB boards must be protected from atmospheric precipitation.

Like other wood-based boards, OSB boards (OSB, OSB) are hygroscopic and their dimensions change in response to changes in humidity. Changing the amount of moisture in OSB boards (OSB, OSB) can lead to changes in the size of the boards, and this can cause problems during the operation of the boards. 1% change in moisture content generally increases or decreases length, width and thickness different brands OSB boards (OSB, OSB).

Installation of OSB boards - proper sheathing and fastening to load-bearing structures

The main scope of OSB boards is the arrangement of the structural elements of the building: roof, floor, walls. At the same time, the installation of OSB slabs has some features, the knowledge of which will help to make the sheathing of high quality and durable. Before you start installation, you need to decide on the choice of hardware, which will play a major role in fixing the OSB.

Used nails and screws

There are many types of nails that are used depending on the location of the plate and its weight:

finishing: used where camouflage is desirable and the likelihood of pulling out is minimized. Often used in conjunction with glue.
round without a hat: needed when laying floors, when installing frame structures and when fixing plates with a tongue and groove connection
with a hat: used where there is no need for disguise;

There are also special nails that have an annular or screw type thread. Such hardware holds the nailed plate better, but is difficult to pull out.

It is best to fasten the panels with screws designed for working with wood - the reliability of fastening increases dramatically. This allows the use of a much smaller number of screws when compared with the number of nails. If necessary, the screw can be easily unscrewed by switching the screwdriver to reverse.

Roof finish

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to make sure that the lathing or rafter legs are parallel. The surface must be leveled, and failure to comply with this requirement leads to the impossibility of a reliable tongue-and-groove connection.

If the slabs prepared for installation have been exposed to rain, they must be dried before laying.

Before installation, make sure that the attic space has adequate ventilation ( total area ventilation openings must be at least 1/150 of the entire horizontal area).

The largest part of the operating load should lie on the long axis of the slab. The articulation of the short ends must be carried out on roof supports. The long sides are joined on auxiliary supports, the connection method is tongue-and-groove or H-brackets.

If the edges of the plates are even (i.e., there is no tongue and groove), then a dilatation gap of 3 millimeters should be left. This will enable the material to change dimensions with temperature changes without compromising the quality of the coating.

The slab must rest on at least 2 supports (on which the connection must fall). The dependence of the distance between the elements of the crate on the thickness of the OSB is shown below (for roofs with a slope of no more than 14 degrees):

1m: plate thickness from 18 mm;
0.8 meters: thickness from 15 mm;
0.6 meters: thickness from 12 mm.

When laying the slab next to the chimney, it is necessary to comply with the norms established by SNiP. Quality mount osb slabs to the rafters are possible using ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long, or spiral nails 5.1 cm long. The distance to the edge of the slab cannot be less than 10 mm.

Installation of OSB on walls

Installation can go in two ways: in a horizontal position or vertical.

When bypassing the window, doorways leave a gap of approximately 3 mm.

With a distance between the wall supports of 40-60 cm, it is recommended that the walls be sheathed with OSB slabs 1.2 cm thick. If thermal insulation is necessary, then it should be arranged before the plates are fixed. As a heat-insulating material, preference should be given to mineral wool.

To fix the plates, two-inch spiral nails (51 mm) or ring nails from 4.5 to 7.5 cm long are used. They must be driven every 30 cm into intermediate supports. At the joints of the plates, the nails are driven in every 15 cm. From the edge, the nails should be hammered in increments of 10 cm (no closer than 1 cm from the edge).

Dilatation gaps must also be left:

between the top edge of the slab and the crown beam: 1 cm;
between the lower edge of the slab and the foundation wall: 1cm;
between plates that do not have a groove-ridge connection: 0.3 cm.

Floor laying

Before laying the material, it is necessary to make waterproofing (if the floor is done on the first floor).

OSB boards should be connected on logs. If there are no grooves and ridges, maintain the same gap of 3 millimeters. If a floating floor is planned, leave a gap of 1.2 cm between the wall and the edge of the slab.

OSB sheets should be laid perpendicular to the joists. The long edges of the plates must be connected to each other by means of a groove and a ridge, and in their absence, with H-shaped brackets. It is desirable that the connection rest on an auxiliary support. The short sides of the slab must be connected on the logs. The dependence of the thickness of the slab on the distance between the lags is shown below:

from 1.5 to 1.8 cm: the distance between the lags is not more than 40 cm;
from 1.8 to 2.2 cm: no more than 50 cm;
from 2.2 cm: distance - 60 cm.

For fastening, the same types of nails are used, which require OSB wall cladding and roof arrangement. On intermediate supports, nails are driven in increments of 30 cm, at the junction of plates - in increments of 15 cm.

To increase the rigidity of the entire coating, giving it a holistic look, you can glue the plates to the logs. It will also be useful to glue the groove-comb connection.

It is necessary to use only synthetic glue (water-based compositions are ineffective due to the presence of paraffin in the structure of the plate).

OSB finish

After fixing, you will need to finish the walls from OSB. The most common way is putty. This method allows you to seal all the gaps in the joints to prevent moisture from entering. Plus, a quality job will help prepare the slabs for possible further finishing (for example, varnishing or painting).

To obtain an aesthetically attractive look, it is better to use plates specially polished by the manufacturer. In this case, you will have to spend less time and material on future finishing.

Before carrying out work, you should walk on the plate with a finely notched sandpaper, and then cover the surface with a primer (it should not be water-based). Next, you need to choose how to putty OSB. It is better if the composition you choose is colorless. To do this, use one of the types of putty:

After completing this stage, you can think about how to finish the walls from OSB. For example, it could be varnishing. The plate should be varnished in 3-4 steps with complete drying of each layer. Lacquering will add shine to the surface and provide reliable protection against moisture penetration.

Another way of finishing is painting. Use paint that does not contain water. After priming and applying putty to the OSB board, it can even be laminated or finished with a special film.

Most of the ways to finish the house are available after the wall cladding of OSB boards has been made in compliance with the technologies and recommendations of the manufacturer.

Installation of OSB boards: wall cladding, fastening, surface finishing

Installation of OSB boards - proper sheathing and fastening to load-bearing structures The main scope of OSB boards is the arrangement of structural elements of a building: roofs, floors, walls. Wherein

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

What to do if there is an old wooden floor in the room, which is inappropriate to paint or varnish? If the boards stagger and ? You can resort to a labor-intensive and expensive method - to tear off the old coating, make a new one or lay fresh ones. But there is another, more practical, faster and cheaper solution - doing laying OSB on the wooden floor.

This method has its own nuances that are taken into account during OSB laying. Looking ahead, it is worth saying that the basis of technology is the correct preparation of the base. Below is a detailed guide to help you achieve excellent result in terms of leveling the surface of the old wooden floor and the subsequent installation of decorative coatings: laminate, linoleum, etc.

Tools and materials for work

The list of necessary devices is minimal:

crowbar nail puller;
hammer;
perforator, drill, drills;
screwdriver;
a large bubble or laser level (with a second tool it will be more convenient to detect irregularities).

Necessary materials:

OSB board;
fasteners - hardened self-tapping screws with a length of at least 45 mm;
washers for screws (their presence is desirable, but not required).

Choosing this method of "resuscitation" of old wooden floors, you need to have an idea about the material used for this purpose in order to choose it correctly. The alignment result directly depends on this.

Characteristics of OSB boards

OSB is a building analogue and chipboard. These slabs are more durable and perfectly adapted for finishing. The material appeared on the market relatively recently. OSB is made from wood chips, which fits into 3 layers. They are glued together with special resin-based compounds. In this case, the layer in the middle is laid perpendicular to the other 2. Due to this, the resistance of the material to loads is formed.

This parameter is marked with a number. The lower the value, the lower the resistance to stress and the effects of destructive factors such as humidity. For example, index 2 means that the OSB board is not moisture resistant and is not able to withstand intense long-term loads. And the number 4 indicates that the product can be used as an overlap that will not collapse even when exposed to moisture.

The material for laying on the floor is selected on the basis of the mentioned designations in order to form an even rough surface. You should not save on the quality of OSB-plates. This is fraught with the need for laying an additional layer, which is expensive and inconvenient. The best option is OSB 3.

The question often arises: “Do I need a substrate for OSB?”. From a practical point of view, no. Wood itself is an excellent thermal insulation material, and if you consider that it is laid on wooden boards, then a substrate is not needed. But sometimes, to achieve the maximum possible soundproofing effect, it is still used.

Foundation preparation

Properly performed preparatory stage is more than half of the success of floor leveling work. Thorough research first wooden surface. This is done using bubble or laser level. All protruding, as well as loose parts are marked, so it will be easier to strengthen them.

The next step is to securely fix the boards. Some experts recommend doing this with dowels, but a more reliable option would be to pull loose elements with self-tapping screws to the lags. It is necessary to fix the old coating as securely as possible. To do this, you can use several mounts in one area. The result is considered ideal when the “walking” floor fragments are recessed or level with the rest.

The gap between the wall and the slabs must be at least 10 mm;
Plates should not be closely adjacent to each other. The minimum gap between them is 3 mm.

Attention! Slots are needed in order to avoid the “crawling” of the plates on top of each other, the deformation of the decorative floor covering. This is due to the expansion of the material due to changes in humidity.

Laying process

After completing all the preparatory work, it remains only to tighten the plates with self-tapping screws to the old wood flooring and fill construction foam gap between OSB and wall. After the foam dries, it is cut flush with the flooring.

The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter every 20–30 cm, but this distance can be reduced. Some experts recommend that you prepare the holes first, but with a screwdriver you can quickly and efficiently tighten self-tapping screws without pre-drilling.

Wooden floors in a private house lose their presentable appearance over time. Numerous layers of paint are cracking and flaking at the edges. And because of this, often even a newly painted surface looks sloppy. To tidy up such a floor, you have to completely clean the boards, process the wood, and then periodically re-stain.

Therefore, when carrying out the next repair, many homeowners make a different decision. Specifically: to lay one of the modern decorative coatings over the wooden floor - laminate, parquet board, linoleum or carpet.

To implement such an idea, it is necessary that the base of the floor is suitable for laying a decorative coating. That is, it had a perfectly flat surface, aligned in a horizontal plane, without protrusions, "ladders", bending sections. This can be achieved by installing OSB on a wooden floor.

General information about OSB boards

Unique physical and mechanical characteristics, at a relatively affordable price, make OSB boards more and more popular in various areas of construction. With the help of this material, floors are perfectly leveled and laid, and with minimal effort, low cost and time saving. In addition, even an inexperienced homeowner in the construction art can handle the installation of plates on the surface on their own.

Before studying the installation technology of OSB boards, it is necessary to briefly consider their characteristics and compare them with other similar materials.

It must be said that oriented strand boards, in some of their technical and operational characteristics, are superior to other materials of a similar purpose. But, due to their design features, they most often cannot be used as a floor finish coat.

Oriented strand boards are made from wood chips laid in several layers in a longitudinal-transverse manner. On the outer layers, chips, as a rule, are placed along the length of the slabs, and on the inner - across. The layers are fastened together under pressure with polymer resins.

Thanks to this technology for the manufacture of OSB-boards, they have improved physical and mechanical properties compared to some other similar building materials.

The main characteristics of oriented strand boards are shown in the table:

The characteristic features of OSB-boards during their installation and operation can be described as follows:

High moisture resistance. When tested in laboratory conditions, the material was completely immersed in water for 24 hours. As a result, the swelling was only 18÷25%. And at the same time, the plate was not destroyed, and its strength was preserved.
Durability and long service life. Oriented strand boards are able to withstand high loads and extreme conditions. Due to the multilayer structure of the material, the plates hold the fasteners well.
Ease of installation of sheet large-format material.
The low cost makes such stoves affordable, even if the amount allocated for repairs is limited.
OSB boards, manufactured in accordance with technological requirements, consist of 96% natural materials. Therefore, they can be called conditionally environmentally friendly. If the plates are purchased for use in residential premises, you should choose a material marked E1.

Thanks to their technical specifications Oriented strand boards are great for subflooring under decorative flooring.

The plates have a perfectly flat surface. Therefore, they can easily level wooden floors, equipped with ordinary wooden board and deformed during long-term operation.
Each slab covers a fairly large floor area. The most common sizes are 2240 × 1220 mm and 2500 × 1250 mm. And this corresponds to 2.98 and 3.125 square meters. When laying them, the surface will have a minimum number of butt joints. Therefore, they are ideal for arranging a base for flooring, consisting of small format elements - parquet board, parquet, vinyl tiles, etc.

OSB boards are self-supporting and have a stable geometry. Therefore, they can be used as a rough floor covering, fixing them to frequently installed logs or sparsely left floorboards. Thanks to these same qualities, plates can strengthen the old one by increasing it bearing capacity and rigidity.
Since the plates consist of several layers of wood, which in itself has sound and heat insulating qualities, the coating of them is to some extent able to protect the room from extraneous noise. In addition, an extra layer fixed to the wood floor will help reduce heat leakage from the rooms.

OSB boards are not afraid of moisture, so they can be used to create a subfloor structure on logs. Moreover, by sheathing the logs with them both from above and from below, it is possible to fill the resulting space with one of the insulating materials.

In the table below, for greater clarity of information, comparative estimated characteristics of various board materials made from wood raw materials and having approximately the same purpose are given.

Name of estimated parameters	Evaluation on a five-point scale
Final average grade	2,86	3,00	3,28	3,57
	MDF	Chipboard	glued plywood	Plates OSB
Strength	2	3	4	4
Resistance to external atmospheric influences	1	2	3	3
Dimensional stability	2	3	3	3
Weight	2	2	3	3
Manufacturability of machining	3	4	4	5
Manufacturability of painting surfaces	5	3	3	2
The probability of defective material (stratification, the presence of sinuses, knots)	5	4	3	5

Varieties of OSB-plates

Today, construction stores offer several varieties of oriented strand boards. They differ in characteristics, and therefore - in purpose. Therefore, when choosing a material for a particular area of construction or repair, this factor must be paid attention to.

OSB-1 - this material has very low moisture resistance and strength, does not differ in special quality. Therefore, such plates are used most often only for auxiliary work.
OSB-2 - these boards are already much better, but their moisture resistance indicators are still not outstanding. They are intended, as a rule, for use in dry rooms in those structures where contact with moisture is completely excluded.

OSB-3 are versatile products that can be used for surface cladding both in dry rooms and in rooms with high humidity. They sheathe walls with them, lay them on wooden floors when leveling them, equip the floors along the logs.
OSB-4 have a thickness of 15 ÷ 25 mm and are most often used for the construction of load-bearing structures in rooms with any level of humidity or even outdoors. They can also be used for flooring as a subfloor.

Plates can have different linear dimensions, but those dimensions that have already been mentioned above are more common. However, this parameter must be paid attention to when purchasing the material. So it will be possible to reduce waste when cutting them.

Surface preparation for OSB flooring

In order for OSB boards to lay perfectly on top of the plank floors, and during operation there were no problems in the form of squeaks and deflections, a number of preparatory work must be performed before installing them:

An audit of the plank base is being carried out to detect rotten boards and logs. Creaking and deformed areas of the old flooring are revealed.
In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of the insulation, if it is present in the general “pie” of the floor structure. Thermal insulation must not be damp, sagging, damaged by rodents, etc. Sometimes you have to change it too.

You can check the evenness of a wooden floor using a building level or rule. The tool is installed on the surface across the boards. If a gap has formed between the boards and the tool, then the floor is deformed and needs to be repaired.

The unevenness of the old wooden floor is by no means uncommon. Over many years of operation, it is not only subjected to high loads, but also “tested” by changes in humidity. A wet board deforms when it dries - it can bend, wrap itself in a “propeller”, etc.

If the floors are not tidied up, then the laid OSB boards will not rest on the entire plank surface, but only on the raised sections of the boards. And what will be the result?

During installation work, plates having a small thickness will take the form of irregularities in a wooden base. It will not be possible to lay a laminate or a parquet board on such a surface in a quality manner due to the peculiarities of the interlocks.

Oriented strand board thick do not have pronounced flexibility, so it will not be possible to press them tightly to an uneven base with fasteners. And this means that the coating will begin to creak either immediately after installation, or after some time.

There are two ways to level a wooden floor:

Dismantling deformed boards and replacing them with new, even ones. The option can hardly be considered cost-effective, so they resort to it infrequently.

Scraping the surface with the help of special equipment.

The second option is possible if the boards have risen above the main surface to a not too high height.

If the boardwalk sags, it means the board is too thin. Or the lags under it are spaced with too much step. If thin OSB boards are used to level such a floor, they will begin to sag along with the plank base. Well, together with them he will begin to “dance” and decorative coating. In such situations, if the state of the lag itself does not cause any complaints, it is necessary to use OSB 18 ÷ 22 mm thick for sheathing the surface.

However, we repeat, this is only possible if the plank flooring is mounted on strong, reliable logs. That is, they also need to be inspected by temporarily removing two or three floorboards.

If the floors were leveled with sanding, then upon completion of the work, the boards must be well cleaned and then coated with a special antiseptic impregnation.

Installation work on laying OSB on a wooden floor

OSB boards are laid on a wooden floor in different ways. Often it depends on what kind of flooring will be laid on top.

For example, if it is planned to lay laminate, parquet board, vinyl tiles, etc., then the laying should be planned so that the joints of the flooring parts do not coincide with the joints of the OSB boards.
If there is no desire to calculate the location of the flooring elements, then you can choose the option of its transverse masonry. That is, lay the OSB boards so that the joints of the finishing flooring elements are perpendicular to the joints of the base plates.
Or, if you like, you can choose diagonal laying topcoat, at an angle of 45 degrees. By the way, such a mounting scheme, for example, a laminated board, is relevant in rooms with uneven walls. This option will visually hide the flaws in the geometry of the room.
Before starting laying, it is necessary to check the evenness of the corners. And it is advisable to start installation work with the smoothest of them.
Another common problem is the divergence of opposite walls in the form of a trapezoid. In this case, it is necessary to make a preliminary marking and adjust the plates laid along the walls along it. Leaving narrow wedge-shaped strips along the walls in the hope of then filling them with scraps is absolutely the wrong approach.

Mounting tools

To perform installation work, of course, you will need some tools and auxiliary materials:

To cut OSB boards, you need to have a hacksaw, an electric jigsaw or (and) a hand-held circular saw on hand. A cut made with an ordinary hacksaw will not be very accurate, and it takes incomparably more time and effort. Therefore, the best option is a jigsaw. Even a novice master can handle this tool. Working with a circular saw is somewhat more difficult, but faster, and the cut is the most even.

If there are no such tools at your disposal, you can look for the possibility of renting. Many shops practice similar services.

To fix the plates on a plank surface, you will need
You will need a tape measure, a long metal ruler, a construction square, a paint cord for beating straight lines and a black marker.
Fasteners - black self-tapping screws 35 mm long.

There is a lot of controversy about black self-tapping screws, which, they say, do not provide reliable fixation. It is difficult to agree with this - with a prepared, leveled stable base, prohibitive loads are not expected. And such a self-tapping screw can break off only by very very catastrophic destructive effects. But in such a situation, no other fasteners will help.

Installation of OSB boards

So, the installation process consists of several stages and is carried out in the following order:

The first step along the longitudinal wall of the room is to beat off a line that will immediately show how even it is.
The edge of the slab, which will dock with the wall, must be marked and trimmed so that it takes the direction of the wall and the shape of the corner into which it will be laid. The outer lines of the slab must remain perfectly flat, with a factory edge. Therefore, it is not recommended to touch at least two sides of the sheet.
When laying the slab against the wall, it is necessary to observe a deformation gap, which should be 10÷12 mm. In order for the gap to be the same, expansion wedges can be used. Another option - before starting work, an elastic damper tape is glued at the bottom along the perimeter of the walls.

All sheets of the first row may have to be adjusted along the line of the wall so that on the outside their edge forms one straight line. In order to make it easier to observe this border, focusing on the outer edge of the first sheet, using a masking cord, on plank floor a straight line is beaten off from wall to wall.

Along this line, all the plates of the first row are laid, and then fixed. Between the plates it is necessary to leave a gap of 3 ÷ 5 mm, in order to avoid the occurrence of squeaks or even deformations during the thermal expansion of the material.

The second row of sheets, whatever size they may be, is laid so that their joints do not coincide with the joints of the sheets of the first row. That is, an offset is made according to the type of "brickwork". It often happens that the Ostyaks of the last sheet of the previous row become the beginning of the next one.
The last row will also have to be adjusted, but already to the opposite wall. Well, the very last sheet - and to the corner.

The plates are fixed to the base with self-tapping screws. They are screwed strictly vertically in increments of 350 ÷ 400 mm. And their hats should be recessed into the thickness of the plate by 2 ÷ 3 mm. In order for the plates to be fixed as firmly and reliably as possible, it is best to fasten them not only around the perimeter. As an option, draw two diagonal lines, and also screw self-tapping screws along them with the same pitch. This is especially important if the base is covered with large, whole sheets of OSB.

Some craftsmen use nails for fastening. But this is not recommended, since squeaks may occur during further operation of the coating.

In fact, this is where all the secrets of installing OSB boards on a wooden base lie. As you can see, the task is not so difficult, and any owner should cope with it.

* * * * * * *

A few last words. Although oriented strand boards are considered suitable only for arranging a subfloor, some craftsmen easily turn them into a decorative coating. For this process, special technology and varnish are used. At the same time, the surface of the floors is no less aesthetic and durable than when laying expensive materials on it.

One more thing. You should never forget about your health, your own and your loved ones. Absolutely environmentally friendly OSB can be considered products of the E1 or E0.5 emission class with the designations "Green" or "ECO".

Such materials are made without components harmful to human health. Typically, these products European manufacturers, which fully comply with the technology that meets the strict environmental standards of the EU. However, the cost of such products is somewhat higher.

Some Russian manufacturers, unfortunately, do not care enough about the health of the consumer. And most often, adhesives containing formaldehyde resins are used as a binder. The cost of such materials is low.

When purchasing OSB, each owner himself must decide what is more important for him: the price of the material or the health of his family. And to make sure the selected plates are clean, you should ask the seller for a material quality certificate.

The informational content of the article will be supplemented by a video, which shows the nuances of installing OSB-plates on a wooden base.

Video: Leveling a wooden floor with OSB boards

Features of choice

OSB laying on concrete floor

Processing material

http://youtu.be/Wcfg5cTWiaw

Benefits of using

See also: Construction of a strip foundation for country house

Page 2

Reinforcement
Manufacturing
Instruments
Mounting
Payment
Repair

1pobetonu.ru

How to make a floor from OSB: features, laying technology, recommendations and reviews

OSB plate is a modern construction material, which, according to its characteristics, successfully replaced chipboard and plywood. These oriented strand boards are used both in the construction of frame houses and for insulation. Also use these products for the arrangement of rough coatings. OSB flooring is a great opportunity to level a concrete screed or a wooden floor inexpensively and with minimal effort.

What is OSB?

Oriented strand board consists of several layers of wood chips pressed and then glued with special waterproof resins. Glue it in three layers. On the outer sides chips are placed along the length, inside - perpendicularly. This solution gives the new building material a special strength.

Types of OSB boards

In construction work, as well as in the repair, several types of these plates are used. So, OSB-2 is a panel that has a very low moisture resistance. This solution is only suitable for interior work in dry rooms.

OSB-3 is a more versatile board. Among the characteristics - high resistance to moisture both indoors and outdoors. Also, the plate has a huge margin of safety.

OSB-4 is the most durable and most moisture resistant materials. They are used only to create load-bearing structures in conditions where the level of humidity is especially high.

Which slabs are suitable for the floor?

If you need to make a floor from OSB, then OSB-3 is best suited for these purposes. These plates perfectly withstand the impact of heavy furniture, various equipment and other mechanical loads.

These panels are used to level the floor before laying the final floor covering. If there are only small defects on a rough concrete or wooden base, then the thickness of the sheets in this case should be no more than 10 mm. If there are larger protrusions and recesses on the surface, then it is best to use thicker plates. Their thickness in this case should be from 10 to 15 mm.

If you plan to build a floor on logs, then even thicker sheets should be used - the thickness should be from 15 to 25 mm.

Selection rules

It is worth knowing some selection rules. It is very important who made the sheets. Experts with experience recommend opting for products from Canada or Europe. As for the size, it is considered standard for this material - 2.44x1.22 m.

The main functions of OSB boards

Such panels are used to create an even and most durable base for various types of modern finishes. floor coverings. It can be parquet, ceramic tiles, laminate, carpet.

This is ideal for leveling floors. The plywood that was used before does not have such high performance. If there is a choice - plywood or OSB floor, then the latter will be more durable.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of such a building material, a sufficiently high density is also distinguished - even a large rat will not be able to damage this base. High resistance to moisture allows the material to be used anywhere - you can lay these sheets in baths, as well as in various unheated rooms.

Laying OSB on the floor does not require special skills - absolutely anyone can do it House master, which is a major advantage. To equip the rough base, it is enough to be able to use the usual building level, a hacksaw and a hammer.

OSB is a great opportunity to save money, since the price of these plates is low. One element will be enough to process a serious area. You can also highlight high strength characteristics - even under heavy loads, the floor will not deform.

Installation of OSB on a concrete floor

Imagine such a situation - there is a terribly curved concrete screed. For alignment, you can apply the following scheme. The technology is relevant for any concrete surfaces.

The first step is to clean the work surface as much as possible. To do this, you can use either a vacuum cleaner or a broom. It is necessary to ensure maximum cleanliness, because the sheets will be glued with mounting adhesive. Clean surface - high adhesion.

Then the cleaned base should be covered with a primer. This will help the adhesive adhere better to the concrete surface. In addition, the primer forms a sufficiently dense film on the screed, which will prevent it from dusting during use.

Then they begin to lay out the OSB boards on the floor. If necessary, cut the pieces to the desired size with a jigsaw or circular saw. From the wrong side, the material is applied parquet adhesive. It should be chosen only on a rubber basis - it is more effective for solving such a problem. To ensure that the adhesive can be applied as evenly as possible, experienced professionals recommend using a notched trowel.

Additionally, the plate should be fixed with a driven dowel. This is done for a guaranteed and secure hold. It is best to hammer dowels around the perimeter. The interval is 20-30 cm. If the concrete screed is even and the installation is carried out in a dry room, then OSB can only be fixed in the corners, but this is taking into account that high-quality glue is used.

In the process of laying between the sheets, it is necessary to leave expansion joints. Their width should be about 3 mm. A 12 mm seam is also left around the entire perimeter of the room - between the slab and the wall. These are special deformation gaps, which, if necessary, can compensate for the expansion of materials. The OSB floor is almost ready.

In conclusion, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the resulting surface from dust and various debris accumulated there. Expansion joints are filled with mounting foam. The surfaces are then allowed to rest and dry for 4 hours. After that, it remains only to cut off the foam, and you can lay the topcoat.

Installation of OSB on a wooden floor

So before you get busy installation work, you should again prepare the basic foundation. It is very important to pay attention to nails, if any. They must be drowned deep into the board. For this, a regular hammer and a steel bolt are best suited. The diameter of the bolt must be equal to the diameter of the nail. If the floorboard has become unusable during operation, it must be restored with a planer.

After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of OSB. First of all, pre-cut sheets are laid out on the surface. Here, as in the case of installation on concrete, it is important to remember the need expansion joints. For fixing plates, it is best to use self-tapping screws, the length of which is 4 cm. The interval of fasteners is approximately 20-30 cm. The self-tapping screws are sunk into the plate.

After the installation is completed, it is recommended to grind the joints. This can be done by hand, but if the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is serious, then a grinder will do. If you need maximum effect, then you should arm yourself with a vibrating machine, which is equipped with a grinding grid. It is worth processing the plate with the utmost care - you can easily make recesses on its surface.

Installation of plates is extremely simple. It turns out that all masters understand how to make a floor from OSB. This new building material is worth a try. He is efficient and a pleasure to work with.

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OSB laying on concrete floor

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OSB laying on concrete floor

OSB boards are a relatively new building material that is widely used in construction and repair work. One way to use it is as a floor covering. Due to its properties, such a coating has high strength and low weight, it is moisture resistant and has a low price, all this explains the growing popularity of this building material. In order for an OSB-covered floor to have a long service life, the fixing of the material must be carried out correctly.

OSB board is inexpensive, quality material for flooring. It is durable, waterproof and lightweight.

Features of choice

Now on the market there is big choice OSB, which differ in their properties and characteristics.

In order to make the right choice, you must follow the following recommendations:

the highest quality is considered to be the products of Canadian and European manufacturers, it is produced according to modern technologies and meets the E1 standard (environmental safety);
it is best if OSB-3 is laid (fastened) on the floor;
on concrete pavement, it is necessary to use slabs up to 10 mm thick; for wooden pavement, their thickness depends on the distance between the joists.

The size of a standard OSB board is 2440x1220 mm, so the required number of them is calculated based on the location so that a minimum of waste is obtained. Using a circular saw, it is easy to cut the required size; it is not recommended to use an electric jigsaw for this, since it is not always possible to obtain an even cut with it.

OSB laying on concrete floor

If your room has a concrete floor, then fixing the OSB as floor material is a great solution.

After OSB is laid on the concrete floor, finishing materials can be installed: tiles, linoleum, laminate, parquet board.

The main functions of OSB on a concrete floor:

When calculating the number of slabs, it should be taken into account that the losses when cutting the slab are 7-10%.

leveling an imperfect floor surface, which usually has bumps, height differences and other defects;
reliable sound insulation, which is ensured by the multilayer structure of the material, which allows you to absorb various noises well;
waterproofing and floor insulation. This material has a natural base, high heat-saving characteristics and moisture resistance.

If there are significant irregularities in the concrete pavement, then the fastening of the OSB-slab is not carried out immediately on the floor, but on wooden blocks, which play the role of a lag.

To ensure maximum rigidity and resistance to deformation, it is better to use OSB-plates with a thickness of 8-10 mm, laid in two layers. It is necessary to lay the layers with an offset, they are attached to each other with the help of spiral nails or glue.

If the concrete floor is even, then you can lay the OSB directly on it, in which case one layer will be enough, it is fastened with self-tapping screws or dowels. Although the material is moisture resistant, there is partial absorption of moisture, and it expands slightly. To compensate for possible expansion or contraction, it is necessary to provide expansion gaps between the plates up to 3 mm in size.

Processing material

OSB boards can be used as an independent floor covering, or as a base for laminate, linoleum or parquet.

This coating can be used independently, for this it is stripped, and then several layers of varnish are applied to it.

If the laying of roll materials is carried out, then it is necessary to ensure a smooth transition at the joints, the plates take minimum thickness. They try to make gaps from the side of the wall, they are treated with an elastic sealant.

To cover the floor with tiles, the base must be completely fixed, so OSB must be laid especially carefully. The tile is placed on a special adhesive, which ensures a reliable connection of ceramics and wood.

Laying plates under the laminate does not imply special requirements, only at the joints the surface must be perfectly flat.

Benefits of using

Simplicity. No special skills and tools are needed, installation can be done by anyone who has minimal skills in construction work.
Convenience. Plates have a large area, so they cover a large surface. Their size makes it possible to stack the logs at a distance of 56 cm from each other, which makes it easy to use modern heaters.
Cheapness. The cost of 1 sq. m of the specified material compares favorably with similar materials.
Reliability. They perfectly hold fasteners, do not change shape and do not deform, they withstand the load well.

Very convenient and multifunctional material for various construction works - oriented strand boards. Since the technology for the production of these plates is not complicated, for interior finishing work, the master can choose a particular option from the four types of OSB plates, or consider special types plate data.

What are the sheets of these products made of? It's simple - wood chips are used (flat fragments are used), shavings: these materials are glued together and a really excellent finishing material is obtained. Three or four layers of wood chips or shavings - these are the indicators that can be called optimal. Mounting OSB on walls is more preferable than using the same chipboard.

However, oriented strand boards are a kind of modification of wood-fiber material, some of its modern analogue. If finances allow, it is better to choose for facing works after all, OSB (plywood or chipboard is increasingly being abandoned today).

Scope of OSB, classification of plates

Before considering the classification of slabs and deciding what is the best way to finish walls from OSB, it is important to pay attention to the characteristics of such a material.

Types of OSB boards

Here everything is as follows:

OSB boards of the first class - they are usually chosen for such premises where there is a low level of humidity;
Type two - the material can be safely chosen for dry rooms, it is even used as a structural element during construction work;
Type 3 OSB - these plates are used in those rooms where there is a high level of humidity;
The fourth type of such products is used for cladding structures that are able to cope even with significant mechanical loads. Moreover, we are talking about conditions where the level of humidity is high.

Application area

One thing can be said about the scope of application - the installation of OSB is a really relevant task, since such plates are used in many construction aspects.

It's just that this material has such a manufacturing technology, due to which all internal defects are simply excluded (at the same time, they very often appear in chipboard sheets - voids, uneven fillings). Due to all this, OSB is a more preferable option - it does not deform, does not shrink.

And now in detail - Where can this material be used??

Often for walls, OSB sheathing is very profitable solution. Due to this approach, the house receives reliable protection from dampness, while also gaining additional insulation. What is the best thing here: in additional finishing works there is no need after installation of OSB;
In the construction of frame-panel houses, OSB boards are usually used, which have a high level of moisture resistance;
Since the material has such a valuable quality, it makes a decent reusable formwork;
It is used as a base when making external wall cladding, as well as during internal works- if finishing of wooden country houses, cottages (from a bar, rounded logs) is carried out;
OSB boards are your faithful assistant if you are making a sheathing, roof rafters. This material can work even under a serious load - it will definitely withstand the weight of not only the roof itself, but also all related loads (wind, snow) - even if natural tiles(material that weighs nothing);
If you need to level the floors in the house or lay them from scratch - here again you can pay attention to the OSB installation. Just such a plate is ideal for creating a very strong, even base. It is best not to find under plank floorboards, carpets or other coverings;
Pay special attention to the process when it is necessary to fit the joints of the plates along the plane. If necessary, they must be equalized - without this in any way.

An interesting point - not every manufacturer can use OSB boards as underlayment layers - in the case of organizing floor coverings. And the laying of the panels is carried out so that the smooth side is located up.

What else does a master need to know?? Following:

It is not necessary to apply an additional protective coating in the form of paint or varnish on the plates - the material initially has excellent protection in the form of a special impregnation;
Processing plates is not so difficult - about the same as ordinary wood. Screws, nails on the surface are excellent. OSB boards are not afraid of rotting, fungal influences, the decorative qualities of such material are at their best;
OSB panels are often used today in furniture production- after all, this is a great alternative to natural wood (but in terms of cost - it is significantly more profitable);
The material does not weigh that much - therefore, it is perfect for finishing, construction, painting work and more.

How to finish your house faster

It is quite logical that any owner wants to move into his house faster - especially if the construction is carried out independently. Private cottages are located separately from neighboring buildings - so in this design you don’t have to worry about neighbors.

Here a well-founded question may arise: maybe not to make a rough sheathing - but to immediately fix the finishing OSB materials directly on the frame racks?

Is such an approach to business allowed, or is it excluded?

If you pay attention to the instructions drawn up by professionals, it will immediately become clear: this cannot be done. There will also be reasons for such a conclusion. Simply, it is important to insulate the house - only in this situation it will be comfortable in it (especially in the Russian Federation, winters are cold - almost throughout the entire territory).

Why are frame cuts required at all - lower and upper? Everything is simple here: they form spatial rigidity - together with the skin. They can also be called mandatory elements, if we consider the design of any frame structure.

A frame that does not have slopes, even with sheathing, will retain its mobility - as in the case when there are any. However, if there is no skin, you can imagine what the consequences could be.

Exterior wall cladding

For rough sheathing, a lot of different materials are used today. There is definitely a choice here - everyone will agree with this. Pay attention to at least these options:

Board;
OSB boards.

Any of these surfaces needs a fine finish: it can be cladding with plaster - with a mesh or a layer of foam. There is an opinion that even boarding can be left as a fine finish - but in this case it will be necessary to process the wood additionally. Under the boards, hydro-wind protection of the walls is also arranged.

You should consider the following: it is not recommended to trim the frame with a board - without rough, preliminary sheathing of OSB boards. Otherwise, there is a risk that the boards will unscrew in the fall or spring. In addition, it is important for the spatial rigidity of the frame.

You will get fewer joints due to the area of \u200b\u200bOSB sheets - which cannot be said about working with other materials. OSB trim is usually made with a material whose thickness is 11-13 mm.

Let's take a closer look:

The OSB plates are fastened to the racks so that there is a joint in the middle. And between the plates there should be a small gap - three to five millimeters is enough;
The sheet completely overlaps the lower trim;
The upper harness is closely connected with the number of storeys of the house. It will be hidden entirely - and the edge of the OSB plate will be aligned with the edge of the strapping if the structure has only one floor;
When the building consists of two floors, the sheet is located as follows: it must go to the racks of both floors at once. But somewhere in the middle of the sheet, the upper trim overlaps. This condition cannot be called mandatory, but if it is fulfilled, the rigidity of the structure increases significantly, which benefits the building;
Sheathing with OSB boards when fastening to a window opening in two-storey houses, should be made in one piece - this is exactly what professionals advise. Then all joints can be moved to adjacent racks outside the opening racks. Just cut into the slab window hole- there is nothing complicated in such work;
When horizontal or vertical jumpers are made in the frame, a very convenient joining of the plates is obtained. In the event that these jumpers have the same cross section as the racks - and this happens often;
For fastening, spiral nails are selected. Self-tapping screws are also suitable - 0.5 or 0.45 cm long. You should not refuse combined fasteners (both nails and self-tapping screws) either - such a solution is considered to be of very high quality.

Keep in mind that basic rules for the execution of fastening work must be observed.

Namely:

It is customary to fix the finishing of OSB plates in intermediate sections every 300 mm;
After 150 mm, fix the places where the plates are joined;
After 100 mm, the outer edge must be stitched.

So that a crack does not go through the material due to too zealous fasteners, a distance of 1 cm is maintained from the edge of the plate to the place of fixation (maybe a little less).

A gap of 4-5 millimeters is left between the plates - so that they do not warp. Fasteners are driven into the rack by 4-5 cm;
The part of the OSB board that is vulnerable (one might say, this is the “Achilles heel” of the finishing material) is the ends. To ensure the protection of these areas, gaps are provided, which are called expansion gaps (between the crown beam and the top edge, also between the foundation wall and the bottom edge). Here the gap will be 10 mm. And between those plates where the groove-ridge is not available, 3 mm is quite enough;
To process these expansion gaps, an acrylic-based sealant is used. It is important that he carefully fills all the cavities - and that this work is done evenly;
Wind protection, waterproofing - all these tasks will be performed by a superdiffusion membrane, which also has the property of vapor permeability (this figure is 750 g / m² or more).

Use polyethylene, various films, glassine - do not recommend the master. It’s just that these materials have a low level of vapor permeability, all excess moisture must be reliably ventilated.

Also, you should know:

The superdiffusion membrane is installed depending on what the rough lining with materials is, what is the fine finish. For example, the membrane is often attached close to the insulation - to the racks of the frame;
They make a crate (here wooden slats are used, the cross section of which is 2 by 5 or 3 by 5 cm. Thanks to this design, the required gap will be achieved. Then it is already possible to finish the OSB surface with slabs, LSU, DSP or sheathe with boards;
From the inside of the room with the help of a film, you can make a vapor barrier of the walls. The material is installed in such a way that it fits snugly enough to the insulation. For fastening, a construction stapler is used. The overlap is done by joining - 150-200 mm, the joints must be glued with adhesive tape.

For such work, you can choose the simplest adhesive tape - there is no need to use building material. Vapor barrier adhesive tape is also suitable.

To perform a vapor barrier, foil polyethylene can be used, which will not thicken the wall insulation (basic). Foam material is also often used for this task - this practice is common in our time.

Finishing the structure inside

Which is better: OSB cladding or plasterboard cladding? Many people are unambiguously inclined in favor of option number one - when it comes to interior finishing work in the house. It is quite difficult to keep the frame racks in a completely even state - when work is being done, the same applies to drywall.

It's just that the sheets of this material are softer when compared with osb boards. They will easily repeat all the bumps - so then you have to work hard to get a completely flat surface - more layers for alignment will need to be applied.

OSB board in its structure is an order of magnitude tougher than drywall sheets, so that all flaws can be smoothed out to a certain extent. After that, they begin to carry out work related to the final finishing.

Watch a video about how OSB boards are used when interior decoration premises. This material will definitely be useful if you do not have much building experience.

OSB-3 boards and roofing

Roofing is a very popular way to use material such as OSB boards. By the way, to cover the roof with OSB-3 slabs, a material thickness of 0.18 cm is enough.

In order:

Both the castle and the flat edge can have products. The first option is more preferable;
Between load-bearing beams the distance should not be more than 609 mm - this applies to both the organization of sloping and flat roofs;
Whether the plates are able to expand is of great importance. For each running meter it is customary to leave a gap: 2 mm is quite enough (believe me, this is enough);
When laying plates with even edges, the gap is already made a little larger - 3 mm. Leave it around the perimeter of each plate - this is the only way to achieve optimal results;
To fix the OSB to the roof, nails are chosen. Attached to support posts. There should be a distance between them: 10 cm or even more;
Finishing OSB boards are attached with nails - they should have a length that exceeds the thickness of the board by two to two and a half times (or even more) - this is quite normal.

If the interior decoration is carried out using OSB panels, the following can be noted here: a slab of polished panels will look better if appearance is very important in your space. For finishing such plates, it is better not to use ceramic tiles or wallpaper - this is recommended by the manufacturers themselves. And it is best to listen to their opinion!

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