Planks for fixing plastic windows. How to install plastic windows correctly

PVC windows have long proven themselves from the best side. They are multifunctional, reliable and durable. However, these indicators directly depend on how well the installation of the window system is carried out. There are only two ways: mounting windows on plates and unpacking. With the first method, you do not need to remove the glazing bead and remove the glass unit from the frame. The window structure is fastened with anchor plates, which makes it possible to install the window without special skills.

Window construction installation methods

Both methods have their own nuances, positive and negative qualities.

Unpacking or fastening through the frame using self-tapping screws

This method of fastening is characterized by the fact that before installation, the frame must be completely disassembled: deaf and opening flaps are removed, and only then installation through the profile is carried out with self-tapping screws.

The unpacking method is mainly used when installing large-sized windows

After installing the profile, the system will have to be assembled and re-adjusted. This option is used for large windows with an area of 4 square meters or more for the reliability of fastening such an overall structure.

Straightening plates are installed between the glass unit and the profile

Here it would be appropriate to mention the straightening plates, which are installed in order to avoid contact between the edge of the glass unit and the window profile. Their presence will provide an even distribution of the weight of the glass unit and ventilation of the folded space. The plates are made of plastic, the width of the element corresponds to the width of the glass unit.

Installation with plates

When installing PVC windows on the plates, there is no need to remove the glass unit

Installation of windows on plates begins with the acquisition of these very plates. There are models for universal use and made for use with a specific profile system. They are usually supplied with structures of complex shapes. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that they have special "ears" and can be inserted into the existing grooves on the surface of the frame.

Lugged anchor plates are used with complex window structures

Plates without ears are attached with bolts, and with ears - with self-tapping screws... Bolt requirements: 4.5 * 25 and the presence of a drill for metal.

Installation rules

A standard window requires at least five plates. In the central part of the frame, one plate is fixed, and on both sides - two: one on top and one on the bottom. In this case, 20 cm should be retreated from the border of the frame.

5 plates are enough to mount a standard window

Installation of windows without unpacking involves fixing the frame with anchor plates from the outside of the window opening. In this case, there is no need to remove the glazing bead and the glass unit. When unpacking, fasteners are provided through the frame with a preliminary disassembly of the window system into its constituent elements: sash, double-glazed window.

Fastening with plates is appropriate to use on windows of medium and small size, more often these are standard windows of residential buildings and apartments. Large window systems (more than 4 square meters) are attached to anchor dowels through the frame, since the weight of such a structure is significant and the plates will not support it.

Large window systems are installed with anchor dowels

Door frames are also fixed using anchor dowels. In professional circles among the masters of installing metal-plastic structures, this method of installation is considered the most reliable, but it has some disadvantages:

this type of installation is difficult even for professionals. There is a high risk of damage to the glass unit when removed from the frame;
this type of fixation by the forces of one person is often not possible to perform;
it is a time consuming and skillful method.

When installing windows on dowels, there is a high risk of damage to the glass

If you want to install the window yourself using this method, you will need to buy dowels 10 * 132 mm. Of the tools, you will need a powerful perforator - this device is a professional and expensive equipment that is rarely used on the farm, so it is impractical to purchase it for the sake of installing one or two windows. You can look for a company that is engaged in the rental of construction equipment, usually rotary hammers - this is the most popular product.

With the installation of the window on the plates, all these problems will not have to be solved. You just have to buy the plates themselves.

Bolt Mounting Difficulties

A few more reasons why you should not mess with bolting when installing yourself, but you should prefer plates. In order to fix the anchor bolt, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the pvc window frame. As a result, depressurization of the insulating glass unit chamber is possible.

As a result of the fact that when drilling, a violation of the reinforcement of the system is possible, in the future problems are observed when the window system freezes... As a result, there is excessive moisture formation inside the room and the appearance of mold on the surface of the slopes.

When fixing the PVC window on the bolts, depressurization of the glass unit may occur

With a lack of experience, without knowing the properties of the material from which the structure is made, it may turn out that it will stretch if improperly installed. It will be almost impossible to correct the geometry of the window frame.

There are still positive qualities of fastening plastic windows to anchor bolts:

reliability of fastening the structure - in order to dismantle it, it will be necessary to perform the reverse order of work that was during installation;
after fixing the window system, there is no need to carry out additional work, as is the case with fixing with polyurethane foam: time for solidification, leveling, cutting, finishing;
the structure can be fully exploited immediately after it is installed;
this method of connection is reliable and durable, and fastening materials in the form of bolts are common on the market and have an affordable price.

Features of fastening to anchor plates

This method of fastening the window system is as simple as possible and accessible to everyone.

Compared to the unpacking method, the method is considered absolutely safe for the window system, but the only drawback is that some elements of the fastening plate after installation will remain in sight. However, they can also be correctly disguised by hiding them under the slopes during their final finishing.

It is easier and safer to insert a plastic window using plates than bolting

There is one more recommendation from experts: if the window has an opening sash, which will be used very often, then the window may fail. This fixing is recommended for moderate opening or for blind windows.

The combined method of fastening is considered an alternative: the upper part of the structure is fastened to plates, and the lower one is fixed with anchor bolts.

Rules for attaching a window to plates

Self-tapping screws should be used as a fixing element. No glue or foam will work. The use of an impact mechanism to create holes is only possible for concrete surfaces.

To avoid damage to the window frame with the drill, it must be of sufficient length. Additionally, you can protect the surface of the frame by installing a piece of pvc near the hole to be drilled..

Self-tapping screws are used as a fastening element

When installing a window in a brick opening with vertical voids, holes for fasteners are formed in the interblock seams. To control the immersion of the self-tapping screw into the frame body, it is necessary to use a screwdriver with an appropriate function that limits the torque.

The process of attaching a window to plates

The first step is to fasten the anchor plates in increments of no more than 1 meter. In order for the frame to maintain a stable position, the fastening elements relative to the corners of the frame should be located at a distance of no more than 25 cm.

The distance from the plates to the corners must be at least 25 cm

It is important to remember that the distance from the border of the window structure to the opening must be at least 2 cm.... If this condition is not met, it is necessary to make recesses in the surface of the opening to accommodate the fasteners. For this, the plates are installed on the frame, then it is installed in the opening.

On the surface of the wall, using a pencil or crayon, mark the future location of the fasteners. Then the frame is removed and a recess is made in place of the marks with the help of a chisel, into which the plate must enter and tightly fix. This will allow you to subsequently effectively mask the plates when finishing the slopes.

At the next stage, a window structure is placed in the opening and its position is aligned with the help of wooden bars prepared in advance. Their thickness should not exceed 3 cm and they are installed only horizontally, while vertical alignment occurs, which is controlled using a level.

Vertical alignment is performed by level

When the position of the frame is leveled, you can proceed to fixing the plates using dowels 6 * 40 with a concrete base or with self-tapping screws in other cases.

The gaps are closed with polyurethane foam.

To avoid skewing the frame, the plates are fixed in order. First, the lower left corner is fixed, then the right one, monitoring with a level. The top plates are secured last. At the final stage, the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.

Greetings, dear readers. I have a neighbor at the entrance. We have been friends for a long time. He recently bought a plot with a dilapidated house, decided to renovate it a bit, including replacing old wooden windows with PVC. After measurements, it turned out that you can buy exactly in size in Leroy and not waste time on window companies. So he bought these ready-made windows, but he doesn't know how to install them. Came to me for advice on which fasteners to choose. Well, when you refuse him, let's go together, choose, buy.

In fact, there are a lot of different fasteners for double-glazed windows on the market now. An unprepared person can be confused by this. On sites and in magazines, they praise this or that fastener. But the durability of the glass unit and its reliable installation depend on the choice of the correct fasteners.

Therefore, I decided to write an article about the types of fasteners and how they differ from each other.

Anchor dowel or anchor

The fasteners are professional and reliable. The structure of the anchor dowel consists of a threaded screw, a metal shell (sleeve) and an inner sleeve.

When screwing in the screw, the sleeve expands the sleeve and the fasteners are securely fixed. But such fasteners have one major drawback. It is so securely fixed that sometimes it is impossible to remove it back.

When you install a plastic window, you don’t think about it. But if in the process the window gets crooked and you need to reinstall it, then the problem will reveal itself. Yes, and from my own experience I know that when drilling sometimes you can get into the reinforcement and then you will have to drill a new hole. And this will lead to the fact that the entire structure can be turned to a terrible state.

If you install a window in a house with multilayer walls, for example, in the P-44 panel series, then there will be difficulties with fastening. The fact is that the anchor in such walls simply falls through and the spacer cannot be fixed.

The length of the anchor for installing a plastic window varies within 100-200 mm, thickness is 8-10 mm. The length of the anchor should be chosen based on the distance from the frame to the slope. The anchor bolt is attached to the inside of the glass unit. If the thickness of the profile is 4 cm, plus the anchor should enter the wall by 4 cm, then 8 cm is already occupied. If the distance from the frame to the slope is a couple cm, then you need an anchor with a length of 110 mm, if 5-7 cm, then a 150 or 160th anchor.

Concrete screws

Regular screws are also suitable for fastening windows. Their advantages over anchors are simple dismantling, if necessary.

The size range of the concrete screw (or nigel) is the same as that of the anchor bolt. From 100 to 200 mm in length and 8-10 mm in diameter. The length of the screw must be chosen in the same way as for the anchor.

Anchor plates

I already wrote about fastening a double-glazed window to anchor plates in. This is one of the most popular types of fastening in window companies.

Anchor plates are:

swivel;
non-reversible.

How to use this fastener for PVC windows, read the article to which I gave the link above. Everything is detailed in it.

It is worth noting the advantages of anchor plates:

You do not need to drill through the frame, as is done with an anchor or screw;
The presence of reinforcement in the wall will not affect the fasteners in any way. The plate can be rotated.
Plating helps out in "complex" houses. For example, the same P-44 series.

Standard plate size 100-200 mm. Since the plate is attached to the outer edge of the frame, the 130 mm length is enough “for the eyes” for any home.

I note that each manufacturer of PVC profiles has products with different widths, therefore, plates of the appropriate size are needed. It is not a problem to find products in large construction hypermarkets. But my advice to you - it is better to order the fasteners together with the window.

How to fix plastic windows in bricks?

Brick is a good building material. But fixing PVC windows in bricks is sometimes problematic. What is the difficulty itself?

If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but in place. This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. So, of course, no one does (I, by the way, too). It's a waste of time.

It is advisable to choose the frame dowel as long as possible (the minimum entry into the brick is 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.

You can use anchor plates in a brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even solid bricks are of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to fix a plate in it.

Fastening plastic windows in a wooden house

Anchoring plates are ideal for wood windows. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber - only plates.

From my bitter experience, I will tell you how I fixed windows with screws to the top of a box in a house made of timber. And there was a siege, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to sit down, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.

As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases and only in the side parts of the window frame.

By the way, even when building frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moving, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The principle is the same with the anchor plate.

Anchor plates for timber houses are good for the following reasons:

Quick window installation;
Compensates for thermal expansion;
Does not affect window structures during shrinkage.

How to fix plastic windows in aerated concrete?

The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be attached to a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.

But it is more correct to attach plastic windows to anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bit in your arsenal.

How to fix plastic windows in concrete?

If you have in mind good quality concrete, from which, for example, lintels are made over window openings, then it is difficult to drill such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel, but it is possible.

In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But panel and block houses, it is just more efficient to attach them to a frame dowel. It is safer and faster.

At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of construction. So I want to say about such a type as glazing of loggias and balconies.

As a rule, the window fasteners fall into the very edge of the upper concrete slab or the edge of the brick bottom and side walls. Therefore, it can be quite dangerous to attach loggias to the edge of the wall on a frame dowel.

Anchor plates, this is a great way out of the situation.

And finally, I would like to say about the big plus of anchors, which is at the same time a minus for anchor plates.

When the window frame is attached to the anchor, at the time of drilling, you set only one vertical plane in level. And adjust the second vertical plane after you have inserted the anchor.

During fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only then make holes with a puncher. This requires a certain amount of skill and skill.

Previously, only wooden windows were installed in houses, but nowadays they produce not only wooden windows, but also.

And in the modern world, people often began to install plastic windows in their houses or apartments. So you, at some point, decided that wooden windows no longer keep heat so well, freeze through and look, say, not very attractive, and for this reason you decided to change wooden windows to plastic ones.

Installation of plastic windows is not easy, so it is best to entrust this work to specialists. But, if you are sure that you are able to carry out the installation of windows on your own or you have some experience in the installation of such windows, you can carry out the installation of windows yourself.

Here's how to properly install a plastic window, and we will tell you further.

The positive quality of installing plastic windows yourself is that you will do it more carefully than many specialized workers. Still, if you do not have the skills to install such windows and have never seen how they do it, then it is best to use the services of specialized workers.

What is the best time to install plastic windows?

Installation of plastic windows can be carried out in winter, but if the outside air temperature is not less than minus five degrees. Otherwise, you need to install a special heat shield.

Measurement of windows

Before purchasing a new plastic window, you need to make measurements of the window opening and, according to the data obtained, buy a finished window or place an order for the manufacture of a window. When you order a window according to your size, it will fit perfectly into the opening of your window.

The window should not be closely inserted into the opening, there should be a small gap between the window and the opening, as it needs to expand or contract, this will depend on temperature changes.

Clearance requirements

The minimum clearance dimensions should be as follows:

Window up to 1m 20 cm, the indent should be 15 mm;
Window up to 2 m 20 cm indentation is 20 mm;
Window up to 3 m indention is 25mm.

When you replace a window, you must take into account that the window must enter the opening for the window, only by a certain number of centimeters. This is necessary so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall and in order to make the slopes.

All measurements were made, all the nuances were taken into account, and as a result, the required size of the window profile was obtained. Now you can go to the company and order a window or take a ready-made one that suits your parameters.

Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening

After you have already bought a window and the weather allows its installation, then you can do its installation. It must be borne in mind that all work will be rather dusty, so it is better to remove all things or cover with a film.

After you have done all the preparatory work, start dismantling the old window, and in order to remove the old window, use a chisel, pry bar and hammer.

Before installing a plastic window, it is necessary to remove dirt from the window opening well and moisten it a little.

Then you can start preparing the window for installation.

Installation of a plastic window

Before installing the window profile, the sashes are removed from the window and the double-glazed windows are removed from the blind parts of the window. Then you need to peel off the protective tapes outside the profile and install the protective caps in the drain holes. We attach fasteners for the mosquito net to the self-tapping screws.

Insulation of a profile

If you decide to make an anchor as fasteners, then the profile is drilled through and therefore the chambers are depressurized. Also, fastening windows to anchors requires more labor and skill, and for this reason such fastening is not suitable for beginners. If the profile is not fixed correctly, it can be led, and if it does, the window will be damaged.

But the anchorage also has positive qualities, for example, the design will be strong. But the negative quality of the mounting plates is that they do not provide good structural strength. But mounting plates are the easiest type of fixing plastic windows. Very often, experts use both types of mounts.

Usually we start fasteners from the corner and make the first fasteners at a distance of 120-150 mm and then make the next fasteners with a distance of 700 mm. Three fasteners are installed on each side.
Before installing the profile in the opening, it is necessary to check all the planes using a level, then using wooden blocks it is necessary to raise the profile and adjust it vertically.
It is necessary to start vertically from the top of the window opening and raise the profile from the bottom using the materials described above. The next step is to horizontally align the profile. The fastening of the profile in the opening from the side and from the top is made of wood blades. After you have done the alignment on all sides, you need to make a profile and if everything is in order, then you can fix it.
If you fix the window profile on the mounting plates, then they are first fixed on one dowel with a nail. The next step is to check the window profile using a level and only after that the mounting plate is fixed with a second dowel with a nail.
In the event that the windows are attached to the anchor, then through the holes that were previously made and then using a special tool, make holes in the wall and screw in the anchor without tightening them.
The anchors are not tightened in order to check the level of the window installation, and only then can the anchors be tightened, but very slowly so as not to disturb the balance of the profile. When the profile is fixed, we remove the blades from the wood from the sides and from the top, and the lower blades remain, because they are the basis of the window profile.

How to install ebb windows on plastic windows?

The next step in the work is the installation of the ebb.

We measure it and use metal scissors to cut out the desired size, then a special tape is glued to the bottom of the frame, it is needed to protect the seam between the wall and the lower part of the window.

After the tape is glued, a layer is applied to it. Also, a layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the edge of the slab, this is necessary in order to ensure and seal the ebb. The ebb must go into the grooves of the profile and is attached with self-tapping screws.

Seam sealing

Then we close the seam with polyurethane foam, between the wall and the window (first from one side, then from the other and from above). After the foam has dried, another insulation tape is glued on top of it. From the inside of the window, it is necessary to remove the protective tape and use special linings when installing the glass unit.

Using the strips, hold the glass unit, hammer the strips into the grooves and install the sash, fix it in the awnings, then fix the handle and adjust the sash horizontally and vertically. After all the work, a mosquito net is installed.

How to properly install a window sill on plastic windows?

After all the work, we begin the installation of the window sill.

First, we fill the lower assembly seam well with foam, and tape is glued on top of it.
Then they install pads made of wood, on which the window sill will be attached.
Wooden blocks must be at least ten centimeters long. Also, the window sill should be tilted five degrees towards the room, and the window sill should not obscure the battery.
It is necessary to check whether the window sill is securely attached and you need to solder it from below and, best of all, with foam.

In this article, we told you how to make the installation of a plastic window and we hope that this information was useful to you. Good luck and patience!

Not so long ago, plastic windows were considered a kind of "elite" element of a house or apartment, available to very few wealthy owners. Today the situation has changed - these window systems have become not so expensive and have become widespread used by almost all average families. They significantly outperform wooden ones in terms of the degree of insulation, and in noise insulation, and on by catching all the elements, which becomes a reliable barrier to drafts and street dust. And just outwardly, such windows are very nice and easily fit into any design of the house and its premises.

In a word, both during the construction of new housing and during repairs, the issue is almost always unambiguously resolved in favor of installing just such. There are a great many companies, large and small, engaged in assembling them in almost all regions of the country. Large firms in the price of their windows immediately include their installation - with large volumes of production, they can afford it. But it is not uncommon to find small private enterprises that require a separate fee for installation - and this is about 2.5 ÷ 3.0 thousand rubles in modern times. It is clear that the thought immediately arises - is it so difficult to install a plastic window with your own hands? Is it possible to save money on this by conducting an independent installation?

It turns out that this is quite doable. The main thing is to understand the process technology well and immediately prepare the necessary consumables. And, of course, during installation, be very careful, strictly follow the installation instructions.

The main stages of installing a plastic window

Should be carried out in a clear sequence. This technology has already stood the test of time, and it would be inappropriate to make adjustments to it at your discretion.

First of all, the necessary measurements are carried out, an order is made for a window structure.
After the window is made and delivered, the old frames are dismantled, the opening is cleaned, and it is adjusted - if necessary.
The next step is to prepare a new window for installation. It may differ depending on the selected window installation method, which will be described below.
The most important stage is the correct installation of the window into the opening, its alignment vertically and horizontally, leaving the required gaps, and fastening to the walls.
Next, there is the sealing of the seams between the frame and the opening, providing hydro and vapor barrier.
The next step is to install the ebb outside and the window sill inside the room.
The final adjustment of the window mechanisms, the installation of the necessary fittings are carried out.
When the room will be finished, window slopes are installed.

Now about the main stages - with all the details.

Two main ways of attaching plastic windows

Before taking on independent work, you need to understand a little theory.

Firstly, one should not start assembling a window for someone who does not quite accurately represent its device. First, let's take a look at the outside window:

1 - Window frame assembled from PVC profile.

2 - Openable sash, also made of a special profile. It can open in several planes, for example, it can be swing-out. Suspended to the frame by means of special fittings that allow precise adjustment of the sash position.

3 - The central post is an impost that divides the common plane of the entire window into two or more parts. The material of manufacture is the same frame profile.

4 - Installed in the opening sash or directly in the frame profile (with a "blind" part of the window) double-glazed window. It can be single-chamber (two glasses) or two-chamber (3 glasses).

5 - Fittings. In this case, the handle of the opening sash is shown.

6 - PVC window sill, which is usually ordered, purchased and installed simultaneously with the window itself.

Now let's look at the same window in section (for convenience, continuous numbering is used, that is, if the positions coincide with the top figure, their numbers are saved):

- The frame profile (pos. 1) has several air chambers (usually from 3 to 5 ÷ 6) - the more there are, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the window system. Profiles are counted along a horizontal line in the direction from the street to the room. In this case, the figure shows a three-chamber profile.

- Inside the profile there is a reinforcing metal profile (pos. 7). This item NS go ahead T is the required rigidity of the frame structure.

- The sash profile (pos. 2) is arranged in approximately the same way. The number of chambers is usually the same as on the frame, inside there is also a reinforcing metal element (pos. 8)

- The glass unit in the frame or in the sash of the window is held in place with glazing beads (pos. 9).

- The diagram additionally shows the device of a PVC-panel window slope. Pos. 10 - starting profile, pos. 11 - PVC panel, pos. 12 - also made of PVC.

Of course, windows from different manufacturers may have their own characteristic features, the shape of the cross-section of profiles and reinforcement, the number of air chambers, the design of the glass unit may differ, but still the typical scheme remains the same.

In more detail about, and how to correctly approach the choice of its optimal model, described in a special publication of our portal.

Secondly, it is necessary to decide on the method of fixing the window in the opening. In practice, two main approaches are used - installation directly through the frame with dowels or anchoring, or installation using brackets (anchor plates) pre-fixed to the window.

A. In the first case (on the left in the figure), the frame is drilled through, and a hole is made in the wall coaxially with the hole. The fastener is inserted through the frame, tightened, and its head will then be hidden by the installed glass unit or covered sash.

The advantages of this method:

The window in the opening is installed much more accurately.
The fastening strength of the entire window system is higher, therefore this approach is the only possible for large windows (2000 mm or more on either side), or where high external loads are expected (especially windy places, high number of storeys, etc.)

Disadvantages:

The window requires mandatory disassembly - removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows, opening doors. For an inexperienced master this is an extra problem, since when dismantling the glazing beads it is not difficult to scratch or even bend, and the removed double-glazed window requires a particularly careful attitude. Due to the need for disassembly, this method is often called installation with window unpacking.
Violation of the integrity of the profile (drilling through it) reduces its thermal insulation qualities, and under certain conditions can provoke.
This installation takes longer.

B. Installation on anchor plates or other brackets mounted on the end part of the PVC window frame. After setting the window to the desired position in the opening, these plates are attached with dowels or anchors to the wall (schematically shown in the upper figure on the right). The window sill and further finishing of the slopes will hide them from view.

Advantages:

Such installation is easier and faster, especially if standard anchor plates are used, which fit tightly into the grooves intended for them on the end of the profile.

The integrity of the profile is not compromised - there is no need to drill through it.
There is no mandatory need to disassemble the window - you can install it pre-assembled. (Because of this, this method is sometimes referred to as "no unpacking"). True, this advantage can be called very conditional, for several reasons at once. First, most often the windows are delivered from the manufacturer disassembled. Secondly, it is very difficult and dangerous to mount a complete window with installed double-glazed windows, especially on a high floor, due to its large mass. And thirdly, filling the remaining gaps on the outside, providing external waterproofing and installing the ebb is still more convenient to carry out with completely removed double-glazed windows.

Flaw, in principle, one, which has already been mentioned - for the strength of the installation, for the resistance of a large window to weight and wind loads, this method is significantly inferior.

Measurements

It is appropriate to make one very important point right away. The owners of the apartment, one way or another, will have to contact a company that manufactures windows to place an order. The optimal situation will be when a representative of the manufacturer comes and independently carries out all the necessary measurements. Firstly, a specialist in this matter has much more experience, and the probability of error will be minimal. Measurers, as a rule, are already familiar with all typical buildings, and it is much easier for them to deal with the nuances of window openings. And secondly, if it suddenly happens that the manufactured window for some reason suddenly does not correspond to the opening, then all responsibility will fall on the employees of the company, and the customer will have the right to demand the manufacture of the correct window structure.

Measurements are most often a free service

Very often, in serious companies, the measurement of the opening is included in the cost of the order and is not additionally paid, so there is no need to fool yourself.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to carry out the measurements yourself, then you should first understand the configuration of the window opening.

In panel high-rise buildings, most often there are openings with a quarter - a monolithic side on both sides and on top of the opening, forming such way the outer slope of the window (in the figure - on the left).
In brick houses, there is usually no quarter - the opening is formed by straight planes perpendicular to the wall (in the figure - on the right).

Measurements of different openings have their own characteristics.

Measurement of the window opening with a quarter

When measuring a window with a quarter, it is taken into account that on both vertical sides and on top, the window frame should be 15 ÷ 25 mm by a quarter, and there should still be a gap for filling it with mounting foam.

This means that the measurement is made as follows:

Outside, in several places (top, center, bottom), the distance is measured strictly horizontally A between opposite slopes. Considering that the window should go over them by 15 ÷ 25 mm, add 30 ÷ 50 mm to the resulting distance. In this way, the required window width is obtained in advance.

Now measurements are taken inside. The width of the opening is determined WITH at its widest point, at the level of the wall (also horizontally in several places - for control). Not to be confused with magnitude V, which shows the distance between the slopes at the frame itself - this indicator in this case has no determining value.

Now you can compare the previously obtained width of the required window with the width of the opening. On each side, at the sides, there must be at least 20 mm for sealing with polyurethane foam. It is possible to adjust the ordered width, since there is a certain range of window overlap by a quarter.

Now about the height of the window. The approach of the frame to the top quarter remains the same. Lower quarter, usually, it does not happen in openings, since a window sill and an external ebb are installed here. For their installation, it is necessary to additionally use an installation profile under the window frame. Most often, manufacturers install it during the execution of an order, but it never interferes with control.

An important design element is the substitute profile

So, how to correctly measure and calculate the height of the window:

Measurements are made from the outside - from the upper quarter to the point where the tide located at an angle (if it is standing) touches the outer corner of the opening ( F).

15 ÷ 25 mm is added to this value - this is the entry of the frame to the upper quarter. Now you need to subtract 30 mm - this is the height of the installation profile. There should also be a gap under it for sealing - from 5 to 20 mm. They are also subtracted from the resulting value. As a result, you should get the required window height.

For control, measurements are made inside - from the top point of the opening to the window sill ( E), and then try to measure the distance from top the surface of the window sill to the "bare" opening (sometimes it makes sense for me to remove the window sill altogether, since it will soon change anyway). The obtained opening height will allow you to check the correctness of the calculations - window height + substitution profile + not less 20 mm at the top and 5 ÷ 20 mm at the bottom for sealing with polyurethane foam.

Note - if the installation of a substitute profile is not planned (which in itself is already a serious drawback), then the gap between the frame and the opening from below is left not less than 40 mm.

You can immediately take measurements to order a window sill, low tide and slopes.

The length of the ebb is equal to the distance between the quarters (A) plus 50 mm. Width - the distance from the window to the edge of the opening plus 20 ÷ 30 mm.

Sill length - maximum opening width ( WITH) plus 50 mm. The width is usually standardized, and the option most suitable for specific conditions is selected, taking into account the distance from the frame to the angle between the opening and the inner wall plus the desired distance of the window sill protrusion outward (usually another 30 ÷ 50 mm).

Measurement of a straight opening, without a quarter.

With a simple straight opening, measurements and calculations will be much easier.

Measurement for a straight opening - much easier

The opening is measured vertically and horizontally at several points, in the widest places (in the diagram - a).

The width of the window will thus be equal to this distance minus two values of the mounting gap WITH... As before, we take it for 20 mm, that is, in the end we subtract 40 mm.
The height of the window is determined by the difference in the height of the opening, the mounting gap at the top (20 mm) and the thickness of the mounting profile (30 mm) and the 10 mm gap below it. If the profile is not installed, then the mounting gap from below is 40 mm. In total, 60 mm is subtracted from the total height of the opening.

Otherwise, the measurements remain the same as with a window with a quarter.

If measurements have been taken, you can go to place an order. But one more time not superfluous will repeat - it is still better to call the measurer to the house so that he takes into account all possible nuances, for example, a slight skew of the opening caused by the shrinkage of the building.

Preparation of tools and consumables

While the window is being manufactured, it makes sense to start preparing for further work. You need to prepare tools and supplies for installation.

From tools and materials you will need:

	Rotary hammer with a set of drills (6, 8 and 10 mm) and a chop chisel-blade		Screwdriver with bit set
	Drill 10.2 mm for metal		Screwdriwer set
	Roulette		Building level, better than 300 mm long
	Construction knife		Pencil for marking
	Rubber or special plastic hammer for PVC windows		Spatula, 50 ÷ 60 mm wide
	PVC hacksaw		Hacksaw for wood
	Anchor plates - if the fastening method is "without unpacking" or combined		Hammer-in dowel nails, Ø6 mm - for anchor plates or Ø10 mm - for fastening through the frame.
	Metal frame dowels (anchors) Ø 10 mm		Self-tapping screws 4 × 16 and 4 × 25
	Precompressed Self Expanding Sealing Tape (PSUL)		Thermal vapor barrier PPE tape, best of all - foil
	Vapor permeable diffuse tape		Polyurethane foam and a gun for its application
	Silicone Sealant - A small tube should be sufficient.		Wedges for exposing the window. You can use specialized plastic ones, or you can limit yourself to wooden ones.

The table needs clarification:

I.First of all, we are dealing with the number of points to be replaced. It depends on the size and design of the window. There are certain standards that ensure reliable fixation of the window system. Below is a diagram of the approximate placement of points to re-attachment. The three most widespread option - a window with an impost, a completely blind window and a balcony block.

In all three cases, there are three main quantities, A, V and WITH.

A- the distance from the inner corner of the window frame to the points of attachment. Be sure to put two points from the corner, both vertically and horizontally. The A value is taken equal to 150 to 180 mm.

V- the maximum distance between adjacent points on one side of the frame. It is taken equal to:

- for "white" PVC windows - no more than 700 mm.

- for windows made of colored PVC profiles - 600 mm.

WITH- the distance from the impost to the attachment point towards the larger sash (if two wide sashes are the same, then it is better to install fasteners on both sides). The size of this distance is from 120 to 180 mm.

With such a scheme in front of your eyes and knowing the linear dimensions of the ordered window, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fasteners. It is advisable to even immediately sketch out a scheme for placing points for reattachment - this will be a good help when carrying out work.

II. What type of fasteners will be needed? It depends on the wall material and on the way the window is fixed in the opening.

If the "with unpacking" method of fastening is used, that is, through the frame, then metal, frame dowels (anchors) or dowel-nails with a diameter of 10 mm are taken. In this case, it is advisable to use anchors on concrete, brick (solid or hollow brick), expanded clay concrete, foam concrete walls or folded from natural natural stone. Dowel nails are preferred on walls made of materials that do not have a high degree of compressive strength, such as lightweight concrete or other porous materials. They are also suitable for hollow blocks and bricks.

In the case when installation on anchor plates will be used, it will be enough for each attachment point of two dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. In addition, the plates themselves will be needed - and it is better to purchase them in the same organization that makes the window - special hooks on the plate must exactly fit the PVC profile. To attach the plate, in addition, you will need self-tapping screws with a drilling point 4 × 25 mm - one for each attachment point.

The length of the main fasteners must be such that, taking into account the thickness of the frame and the width of the mounting gap, a minimum penetration into the thickness of the wall is ensured. For various wall materials, it has its own value - see the table:

Small self-tapping screws 4 × 16 may be needed to attach the ebb and auxiliary elements for installing the window sill. They are also needed if it is supposed to install a mosquito net on the outside of the window - they attach plastic brackets to the frame profile.

The PSUL tape is purchased with the expectation that it will be enough for the entire perimeter of the window. It is installed in such a way as to seal the gap between the window and the adjacent quarter - on the sides and top. And from below it will be attached when installing an external ebb. If the window opening is without quarters, then, accordingly, less tape will be needed.
PPE tape with foiling - it will be necessary to completely isolate the perimeter of the window from the inside.
Vapor permeable diffuse membrane tape - will cover the bottom side of the window from the outside when doorway with a quarter, and it is advisable to glue it around the entire perimeter, if the opening is straight, without a quarter.
Polyurethane foam: the best option is to purchase cylinders with "pro" - foam, for the use of which you will also need a special gun. It does not give "inadequate" expansion, like the cheap one implemented in spray guns, and will not have a deforming effect on the frame struts. In addition, it is much better quality, more durable, it is much easier to apply it to the right places, without unnecessary cost overruns.
Finally, the silicone sealant. It may be needed to seal narrow gaps between the frame and the window sill or slopes. With proper installation, the gaps, if any, will be very insignificant, that is, a large amount of sealant will not be required.

And finally forward-looking the owner will purchase a film with which he will cover the pieces of furniture, walls, the floor in the room where the window will be installed - the work will be quite dusty at first.

Dismantling an old window

After the window is made and delivered to the work site, you can move on. It is clear that before installing a new PVC window, it is necessary to dismantle the old one and free the opening. This work is rather dirty and laborious, but you cannot do without it. An approximate sequence of actions is in the table below:

Miniature	Description of the operations performed
	The largest flaps are removed first. For example, if a balcony block is dismantled, then the door is removed. There is an important nuance - it is possible to remove the sashes or doors along with the glass only if the structure has retained its rigidity. If the window "plays" or is badly rotten, then, for reasons of elementary safety, the glass is first removed and taken out.
	It is recommended to immediately remove all dismantled parts from the work area - there is a high risk of accidentally breaking the old window glass and getting injured.
	If the side of the window has a window, then first remove it. If it was not possible to unscrew the old hinge fasteners (and most often it does), then you will have to make an effort - usually this is enough for the window to be removed.
	Windows are usually hinged, from which they can be removed by simply lifting them from the bottom with a pry bar.
	All windows and vents are removed - you can proceed to dismantle the frame.
	First, the central rack is removed - impost. To make it easier, the imports are sawn closer to the bottom of the frame. It is necessary to cut with a hacksaw - in some videos the masters flaunt the fact that they use a "grinder" for this. Repeat after them - in no case should be - it is extremely dangerous!
	The sawn impost itself becomes a lever that will not present much difficulty in breaking out of the frame.
	Next, the lower frame lintel is removed. Again, for the convenience of dismantling, it is advisable to saw it through, using a jigsaw for this.
	Using a pry bar or nailer as a lever, one of the halves is pulled upwards.
	If there is resistance at the place of its attachment to the vertical post, then you can help yourself there with a mount
	After that, break out the second half in the same way.
	After removing the lower lintel, the window sill is dismantled. It can be knocked out with a hammer from the side of the street.
	The sill is removed and exposes the lower plane of the window opening.
	Go to the upright rack. Often it is tightly wedged at the top and bottom. Then it is better to move it somewhat away from the wall, and also saw through with a jigsaw.
	Pulling out the two halves of the rack in turn will no longer present much difficulty
	The upper part of the frame on one side is no longer supported by anything, and should move away without any problems.
	The last upright of the frame shouldn't resist either if you pry it well with a pry bar. Sometimes, in order to get to the gap between the frame posts and the wall, you have to chop off the plastered slopes with a puncher.
	The last stage is cleaning the freed window opening from the old seal, construction debris, etc. cleaning is carried out very carefully so that the opening remains completely clean before installing the window. Sometimes it makes sense to use hard brushes and a vacuum cleaner. All garbage is loaded into bags and immediately removed from the work area.

Sometimes you have to resort to correcting the opening - removing defects in the concrete casting, mortar residues, etc. The easiest way to accomplish this is with a perforator, installing a chisel-blade on it. It is also advisable to immediately gouge small grooves in the wall on both sides at the place of the future installation of the window sill, with a width and depth of about 50 mm and a height of about 30.

After cleaning the dust, one should not be too lazy and walk over the entire opening with a layer - this will strengthen the surface to a certain extent and improve the adhesion with the polyurethane foam.

Preparing a new window for installation

A. If you plan to install a window "with unpacking", then it is advisable to negotiate the order during registration, so that it will be brought disassembled (and this is most often the case). If not, then you will have to disassemble it yourself.

First, the glazing beads are removed from the blind sash. They can be pry off with the blunt side of a knife or with a spatula, starting from the center. Then, when the first gap appears, it is widened by carefully moving the instrument in one direction and the other.

The main thing is to gently pry the glazing bead in the center.

The bead must disengage in the groove and separate in the locking part. Then it remains to put your fingers under it and carefully separate along the entire length. It is advisable to number the removed glazing bead so that there is no confusion when reinstalling. But it is better to mark with a pencil from the wrong side - the pencil mark is very hard to rub off from the PVC surface.

Is retrieved. It is most convenient to do this with a special suction cup, but if it is not there, then you can do that. Caution - the glass unit is heavy enough and may have sharp edges - it is better to work with gloves.

Please note that plastic inserts may be located under the glass unit. Their position will need to be noted in some way so that during installation they would fall into the same place.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Video: how to remove a double-glazed window from a PVC window

It is not required to get the glass unit from the opening sash - it is enough to remove the sash itself. This is not difficult to accomplish. To begin with, the sash handle is moved to the "closed" position - it looks down. From both hinges, from the top and from the bottom, the decorative casing is removed - it should be easily pry off with a thin screwdriver. Then we move on to the top loop. An axial vertical pin is installed in it, slightly protruding outward. It is pushed down, and then either gently knocked out using a thin screwdriver (its diameter should be less than the diameter of the pin), or pulled out by picking it up with pliers.

After that, the sash handle is moved to the "open" position. The door is folded over onto itself, and then removed by a translational movement upward from the lower axis. The removed sash, as well as the dismantled double-glazed windows, is temporarily removed from the working area so as not to accidentally damage it during further operations.

Video: how the PVC window sash is removed

The next step in preparation is to drill holes for attaching the window to the opening. To do this, according to the previously drawn up diagram of the placement of points, the centers of the holes are outlined and slightly nailed. A drill for metal Ø 10.2 mm is inserted into the chuck of a drill, hammer drill (switched to non-impact action) or a screwdriver.

Drilling is best done from the outside of the frame. In this case, the drill, quickly passing through the PVC layer, immediately, without distortion, rests against the reinforcing profile. After it is passed, one insignificant obstacle will remain in the form of the inner PVC surface of the frame. If you change the direction of drilling a hole, then it is much more difficult to achieve its perpendicularity and even edges.

The presence of a wildcard profile is checked. It is attached from below with a conventional lock connection, entering the grooves of the frame part. If for some reason it is not there, then it is advisable to purchase and install it. Most often, it does not require additional fastening. Experienced craftsmen advise in advance, about a day before the installation of the window, to fill the cavities of this profile with polyurethane foam so that it does not become a "weak link" in the thermal insulation of the entire window system.

The protective cover is removed from the outside of the frame. If this is not done right away, then it will be very difficult to separate the film that has been in the sun even a little. And in general - it will be difficult to remove the protective coating from the outside after installing the window. From the inside, this coating can be removed later.

If there will be a mosquito net on the window, then now is the time to mount the brackets for it. They are installed on self-tapping screws 2 × 16 mm, screwed to the PVC profile.

Their placement should be such that it does not interfere with the pressing of the window to the upper quarter of the opening, and that secure fixation of the mesh is ensured, as well as its installation and removal by moving it upward until it stops in the upper brackets.

The last preparatory step in this case is gluing the PSUL tape on three sides of the window, in those areas where the frame will be pressed against the quarters of the opening.

Usually, the PSUL is placed so that between its inner side facing the center of the window and the edge of the quarter there is a gap of about 3 ÷ 5 mm.

B. If it is planned to install the window on anchor plates, then the preparation process will have its own characteristics.

- Firstly, the blind sash may not be deflated - it will be enough to remove the opening ones. True, this has already been said, installation will be somewhat complicated due to the large mass of the window.

- Secondly, anchor plates are installed at the designated attachment points. They have toothed or straight hooks that must perfectly match the grooves on the outside of the frame profile. It is enough to apply moderate force, for example, knocking with a hammer, and they will snap into place.

Installing the anchor plate in the profile groove ...

There is a hole in the center through which they are fixed to the profile with a 4 × 25 mm self-tapping screw - it, passing through the reinforcing metal profile, will reliably hold the plate in place. The plates are fixed perpendicular to the frame, and then bend them so that they fit into the window when installed. doorway.

... and fixing it with a self-tapping screw

On the opening itself, on its slopes, in those places where the plates will fall, recesses can be made in advance with a perforator. The goal is to reach the wall material, beating off an unreliable plaster layer (if any), and to facilitate further work on finishing the slopes - the plates will not interfere with this. However, such an operation, especially when installing a window into a "bare" opening, is not mandatory - all this can then be closed with finishing.

The rest of the preparation steps are no different from those about NS some of which have been discussed above.

Installation and fastening of the window in doorway

Very carefully, in compliance with all precautions and, possibly, additional insurance against the frame overturning outward, it is exposed in the window opening. If the opening is with quarters, then the frame should fit snugly against them through the glued PSUL.

The next most important task is to very accurately set the frame in vertical and horizontal planes, and the building level becomes the main tool. One good piece of advice is to temporarily fix the window approximately in the center from the top on the anchor plate - the degree of freedom will be preserved and the work will be much easier.

The level is set on the inner plane of the lower headroom of the frame - that's why the tool is preferable dl other 300 mm. The absence of blockage of the frame vertically is checked by applying the level from the side of the room to the impost and to the side posts.

To ensure the necessary clearances on all sides and the correct position of the frame, wooden or plastic wedges are used.

Plastic ones are definitely preferable, and if there is an opportunity to purchase them, then this will be the ideal option. They "work in pairs", engaging one another by means of small teeth. Moving (knocking) them one relative to the other, you can set the desired height with an accuracy of ley millimeter.

You can, of course, do well with wooden wedges or pads, but often this requires cutting them, replacing them, installing several pieces with a "pyramid", etc.

The wedges should wedge the window so that you can proceed to its fastening in the opening.

When installing fasteners using the "unpacking" method, experienced craftsmen often practice making a hole in the wall directly through the already drilled channels in the frame profile. This is perfectly acceptable, but only if the installer is 100% sure of the quality of the wall, the power of the tool, and the firmness of his hand. It happens that the drill of a perforator runs into an obstacle, a beating begins, which, if not held, can turn a neat hole in the PVC profile.

Drilling a hole straight through the frame is dangerous enough

If there are any doubts about this, it is better to carefully mark the centers of the holes with a puncher, then remove the frame, and then start drilling. True, in this case, you will have to again set the window to its previous position and wedge it, but with the drilled holes this will already be easy to do.

Driving the anchor into the prepared slot ...

The anchor is inserted into the hole right through the frame, hammered down with a hammer until it is completely immersed, and then twisted, but without "fanatical" effort, so that the head does not deform the PVC profile. If dowel nails are used, the plastic part is inserted first, and then the spacer nail is carefully driven in.

... followed by tightening

The fastener heads are decorated with special plugs, for fidelity they are slightly lubricated from below with a drop of silicone sealant.

By installing the window on anchor plates, the process is even easier. They are finally given the desired bend so that they fit snugly to the surface of the window opening. Holes in the wall Ø 6 mm are drilled directly through their holes, into which dowel-nails are installed and driven.

Window installed using the "no unpacking" method

The standards define two fasteners per plate, although judging by numerous photographs on the Internet, many craftsmen limit themselves to one. Probably, nevertheless, with two - it is more reliable, and they are not at all expensive. However, sometimes the steepness of the bending of the plate simply does not allow installing two dowels.

Sealing gaps

After the window is securely fixed in the opening, you can proceed to sealing the gaps between it and the opening, installing the window sill and the ebb.

An important note - in the case when the installer decided in order to save money ( absolutely unjustified) to use inexpensive "household" foam, you must first assemble the window - the installation of sashes and double-glazed windows. The fact is that such foam has a very significant expansion force that can even lead to slight deformation - deflection inside the frame profile. And even a slight curvature can lead to difficulties with installing a double-glazed window or closing the sash, which means that the window must be given "standard" rigidity before foaming.

Filling the openings with high-quality "professional" foam will not entail such consequences. Using a pistol with a long and easy-to-use mouthpiece, filling is carried out upwards... In no case should there be internal cavities - the foam should lie evenly and tightly. Its residual expansion is insignificant, which makes it possible to economically control its consumption. Particular attention is paid to narrow cavities, for example, under the staging profile.

While the window is disassembled, nothing prevents you from controlling the filling of the openings with foam and from the outside, making certain adjustments if necessary. This is especially important if opening has no quarters.

If the width of the gap between the frame and the opening is more than 20 mm, then it is likely that you will have to fill it with foam in two passes, with a pause between them of 2 ÷ 3 hours. The quality of the filling will only benefit from this.

The assembly room is an excellent insulation, but very vulnerable. It must be protected from sunlight and excessive moisture. This should be done immediately after it has completely hardened (in about a day), and the excess will be cut off.

If opening does not have quarters, then you should not delay with the device of external slopes, which should completely hide the frozen layer of foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet rays. The solutions here can be different, for example, plastering or covered with panels.

But in any case, it is recommended to begin with covering the outside of the foam with a diffuse membrane - it is necessary to ensure the free escape of water vapor into the atmosphere, while preventing moisture from entering from the outside. Moisture, if it accumulates in the thickness of the insulation, can be destructive when it freezes and expands.

And from the inside, another tape is used - PPE, which has both hydro and vapor barrier qualities. It will not allow direct ingress of water into the insulation layer from the inside, nor the penetration of steam. In addition, the foil layer facing the room is another frontier of reliable thermal insulation.

Installation of a window sill and ebb

A. Installation of a window sill can be carried out in different ways. So, they are mounted on glue or foam, on special brackets or the same with the help of self-made fasteners, made, for example, of straight hangers, which are usually used with galvanized drywall profiles.

Ideally, the sill at its base should fit into a special groove for it on the substitute profile. Sometimes the design of the frame itself implies the presence of a special quarter, designed specifically to mate with the plane of the window sill. If it is not there, then where the panel can be slipped under the frame profile, wedging from below for a tight adjoining to it.

To make it easier to understand, an approximate diagram of the correct installation of the window sill and ebb tide is given. Pay attention to the location film membranes.

Consider the option of installing a window sill on foam, as one of the most widespread.

Wedges are placed under the window sill panel (again, adjustable plastic ones are better), with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm. The panel itself is cut to the exact size, often taking into account the slight deepening into the wall on both sides. You can cut the window sill with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
Then, by adjusting the height of the wedges, they ensure that the panel, inserted into the slot intended for it on the frame or staging profile, occupies an exact horizontal position.
Now the window sill must be loaded so that when the foam fills the space under it, it does not move from the installed position. The load can be given by placing it on a window sill evenly along its entire length, for example, a container with water.

The space under the window sill between the wedges is completely filled with polyurethane foam. She will and thermal insulator, and will act as glue.
It will be possible to remove the load only after the foam has completely hardened.

If a small gap remains between the frame and the window sill, it is carefully sealed with white silicone sealant.

B. Next is the installation of the ebb from the outside. An example circuit is shown in the figure.

The ebb attachment point is already covered vapor-permeable a membrane that completely covered the polyurethane foam. It is recommended to glue the PSUL strip along the plane of the opening - the ebb tide located at an angle will rest on it, which will create another barrier against moisture penetration from the street.

The ebb itself is attached to the substitute profile with self-tapping screws 4 × 16, with a step of 100 ÷ 150 mm. It can be mounted overlay, and then it makes sense to coat its edge with silicone sealant. But it is even better if its curved edge enters from below into a special groove of the staging profile - then you will not have to be afraid of penetration under the outflow of rainwater at all.

Just like the window sill, it makes sense to slightly deepen the wall plane on both sides by hollowing out the grooves for this. Then it will be easy to seal them up with plaster.

Final assembly of the window

When the installation of the main elements is completed, it is necessary to bring the window to fully working condition.

Double-glazed windows are inserted into place, using those plastic linings that were originally installed. According to the numbering, glazing beads are mounted in place. This is most conveniently done with a special rubber or plastic hammer. The staple should sit exactly along the entire length - straightness, an audible click and the absence of a gap will indicate that it has clearly taken its position.

The removed sashes are installed in place - how to do this has already been described and shown above. After installation, the operability of the opening and closing mechanism of the sash is immediately checked in all modes and the tightness of its fit to the frame.
If necessary, an exact one is produced (how to do it - in a special portal article). If there is no need for adjustment, then the hinges are closed with decorative covers.

In fact, the installation of the window is complete. Only the question of installation remained unsolved - but this is already a topic for separate consideration, which is also given attention on the pages of our portal.

In conclusion - detailed Video instruction for the installation of metal-plastic windows. Read, see, evaluate your strength in order to make a decision - will it be feasible to install a plastic window with your own hands, or does it make sense to seek help from specialists?

Video: instructions for self-installation of PVC windows

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can't argue with that.

A recently acquaintance contacted me with a question whether it is possible to install windows yourself.

He decided to build a country house on his own, to occupy himself, so to speak, after retirement, and is preparing an information base with regards to each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, just came in handy. I threw a short plan of action for him, and decided to consider all the questions in my blog in detail.

Look for all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We bring to your attention instructions for self-installation of plastic windows.

Do-it-yourself technology and procedure for installing plastic windows

The sequence for installing a plastic window consists of the following steps:

Dismantling of old windows (if replacement is in progress).
Preparation of a new plastic window.
Installation and alignment of the support profile for the future window.
Fastening of fasteners to the window frame.
Creation of recesses in the wall at the points of fastening of fasteners.
Inserting and placing a plastic window horizontally and vertically.
Fixing the window in the opening using fasteners in the places of the holes for them.
Foaming (filling with polyurethane foam) the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
Installation and alignment of the window sill.
Installation of slopes.
Adjustment of window fittings.
Installation of an ebb from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work, if you are building a private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then the ebb installation must be done after inserting windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and the rubber gasket, and with light blows knocks the glazing out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, it is easy to align and install the ebb through the window.

Before installing the window, a support profile is mounted.

It's as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align horizontally and foamed.

But before foaming, it is better to put a window on the profile and see if it normally fits into the remaining space.

If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the support profile directly into the lower groove of the window.

If a profile is not provided in the configuration, then under the window you need to put blocks at the height of the window sill in order to fix the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the support profile is completed, we proceed to the installation of the window.

First, you need to attach fasteners to the window on which it will hold. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is made with a self-tapping screw for metal about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you insert a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After that, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch out recesses under the entire plate of fasteners, so that later we will cover the entire fastening with mortar and level the wall to install the slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.

It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the other puts the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then it can be foamed in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Note!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a pshikalka, for example). Only in this way will the foam grasp as much as possible with the structure of the walls.

If you install the window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter polyurethane foam. If the temperature is over 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After that, it must be closed from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with ordinary mortar, tile adhesive, or a protective impermeable film.

Installation of a window sill requires preliminary trimming of excess length, since it comes with a margin of size.

A jigsaw or grinder is perfect for these purposes. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if any) and align.

If, after alignment, there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, having previously removed the window sill.

If everything is fine, then a simple foaming is enough. Do not forget to put plugs on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits into the opening clearly together with the plugs. The caps are best glued to the windowsill with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, it must be checked for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Helpful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, after pressing the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) in order to avoid bulging up from the polyurethane foam. The next day, excess foam under the windowsill can be removed with an ordinary knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very small slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees) so that possible condensation does not seep between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove the excess foam around the frame perimeter with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install the slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the required length (two - to the height of the opening, the third - to the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, the fastening is made on polyurethane foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, the final framing must be made at the ends of the panels. For this, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the strip).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebbs on plastic windows

The ebb is installed very simply: first, it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the support profile and foamed.

After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted, a mosquito net is placed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be covered in upcoming articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Do-it-yourself installation of a PVC plastic window is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these activities.

Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs for them can be reduced by doing the installation of plastic windows with your own hands.

At the same time, the savings will be approximately from $ 40 to $ 70. (dollars) and above, on each self-installed double-glazed window.

Just in this article of our blog, construction and repair with our own hands, we will take a closer look at the question of self-installation of plastic windows.

At the end of the article, you will also find a thematic video of installing plastic windows with your own hands in accordance with GOST.

Installation of a plastic window - steps:

Installation Methods - There are two methods for installing a window with and without unpacking.
Fasteners - types of fasteners, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffusion tape, what is where to place - a diagram.
Opening preparation - how to properly prepare the opening.
Installing an ebb - a diagram, recommendations for the use of polyurethane foam.
Window assembly - we assemble the window after unpacking.
Window sill installation - recommendations, practical advice.
Installing slopes - installing plastic slopes with your own hands in steps, diagram.

Today there are two methods for installing PVC windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The method of installation with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the double-glazed window:

- remove the glazing beads

- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.

After that, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and glass units are installed back. Note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances on which we will focus your attention.

Because it is this more laborious but safer method (for plastic double-glazed windows) of installation that we chose for writing an article and, of course, it is also present in the video for installing plastic windows with our own hands.

Helpful advice!

When taking out a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, as careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows can accidentally break during their removal and transfer, but if everything is done carefully, then nothing terrible will happen.

If this process is carried out without unpacking, then the removal of glasses and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for volumetric windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that the use of the first technology for installing a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough theory, let's get down to practice.

A window usually consists of several parts. These parts can be blind or open sash.

Let's now look at how to remove the glass unit from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing the glass unit.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not completely hammered in and it is possible to easily dismantle them.

If, nevertheless, the glazing beads were sunk to the end at the manufacturer's company, it is necessary to insert a small spatula into the seam between the glazing bead and the window frame and, with careful tapping of a mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give in and begin to come out of the grooves, plastic clips begin to fall out, they must be assembled, since we will need them at the time of installing the glazing beads back.

We do not think it is worth reminding that everything must be done very carefully so as not to break an expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to do this operation together, since it is not an easy task to hold a double-glazed window, which weighs an average of 30 kg, and to do something in parallel.

And one more thing, it is necessary to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, or even better, lean the double-glazed window (double-glazed windows) against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of soft clean rags between them.

In order to remove the opening sash of the plastic window, you need to open it slightly in order to gain access to the hinges.

Dismantling of the opening sash must begin with the dismantling of the upper hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (rotating shaft inside the hinge), first you need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which a part of this shaft will appear from below.

Hooking the lower part of the spindle with pliers, take it out, respectively, down.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, it is necessary to slightly deflect the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will let you do this, then raise the sash by about 5 cm.

After that, the sash will also be freed from the second lower hinge. To carry out this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both the sash and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fasteners.

Fasteners, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed around the entire perimeter, starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between the bolts 700 mm, and the minimum 150 mm (see diagram below).

Also, the fasteners should be located near the imposts (impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to give the structure of the plastic window rigidity.

Mounting types.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

Fastening using a concrete screw.
Dowel nails with anchor plates.
Fastening with an anchor bolt.

When installing plastic pvc windows with our own hands in accordance with GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most difficult and at the same time the most durable types of fasteners, where you can not think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with an anchor bolt.

concrete - 40 mm
solid brick - 40 mm
silk brick - 60 mm
blocks of porous natural stone - 50 mm

Installation of a plastic window in accordance with GOST implies the use of special insulating materials, this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates into the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If the outer contour of the seam is made as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when installing assembly seams, it is always necessary to observe the principle denser inside than outside.

For these purposes, use PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape). If the distance between the bottom profile and the bearing wall is less than 40 mm, PSUL is used, if this distance is more than 40 mm, then a diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, as well as diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame, they are designed to protect the foam from the external environment, as well as so that moisture can escape from the assembly seam during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that, ideally, it is necessary to use a diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

An example with a diffusion tape you can see in the video the installation of a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically shown in the diagram below.

Opening preparation.

The opening must be cleaned of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and reinforced.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solids and / or liquids).

The frame of the window unit is installed in the opening, while the box should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but must be installed on supporting supports, for this you can use plastic wedges.

These wedges are installed under corner and mullion joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

For leveling, attach a level to the base of the glazing bead, since the seam part in practice is not always flat, due to the fact that at the time of drilling it could be deformed.

After that, it is necessary to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and further in the wall.

After that, anchor bolts must be inserted into the drilled holes, but not completely, in order to be able to align the frame.

After all the anchors have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is evenly installed, and if everything is normal, we sink the anchor bolts and screw in the anchor, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already firmly fixed in the window opening.

Installing an ebb tide.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is the installation of an ebb. The ebb can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if, of course, it is in good condition.

The ebb tide is attached to the support profile with several self-tapping screws (see figure-diagram).

The moment has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.

During the production of work, the temperature of the cylinder with polyurethane foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator pistol and on the cylinder itself.

Note!

Polyurethane foam is used with gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening due to less expensive building material - for example, brick or foam.

Assembling the window.

After we have mounted the window frame and ebb, all external work on the installation of a PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and glass unit back.

First, we install a double-glazed window.

To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame, it would be nice that your partner would hold the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the glazing beads onto the guides and, with neat blows from the mallet, sat them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clips).

Then you need to install the sash of the window, for this you need to raise the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them in until it stops (here you can also use a mallet and neat blows).

When installing a window sill, you must first cut it.

Then attach it closely to the support profile, then level the window sill with a level and put in various materials.

The sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensate, but in no case should it sag.

After 12 hours, when the foam has frozen, the load can be removed and the excess foam must be cut off.

Helpful advice!

The load was designed so that the foam would not deform the window sill during the drying process.

It is very undesirable that a gap remains between the window sill and the frame, if all the same it remains to be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing to do when installing the slopes is to attach a wooden plank to the window perimeter (the inner perimeter of the window opening, see the photo).

Fastening with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The plank should not protrude from the window opening, but, as they say, should be flush.

To make the slopes even, it is necessary to level the planks using a level.

After that, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping bugs, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as neatly as possible.

The next step is to install the F-shaped profile, which is attached with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile, and the slopes will be placed in these grooves. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with scissors on the iron, because this groove is obtained overlapping the upper part of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can't fit the seams evenly, then you can smear them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.

This work does not require special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are some secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that were optimal in terms of thermal performance.

- with a four-chamber window profile
- and a double-glazed window
- as well as a reinforced front door.

By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the order value.

And the total expenses amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built house made of aerated concrete, in which you need to install 8 windows and one front door.

First of all, we remove all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - there will be a window sill).

For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam.

The depth of the windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings for typical window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between a standard size or a custom-made window.

The final dimensions of the window are calculated taking into account the following factors. On the side and top of the frame to the wall, there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.

At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a support profile with a height of 3 centimeters, which is needed for easy installation of the window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for polyurethane foam. Total, roughly speaking, from the internal dimensions of the opening, you need to subtract 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically.

You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because it will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows.

In the case of a country one-story house, there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation, an opening transom can be made (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than the swing-out mechanism, but at the same time its width should be much greater than the height, or rather, to say it the height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section also lies in the fact that you do not lose usable glazing area. In my case, there are 5 fixed windows measuring 60x60 cm, two fixed panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing of 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes only windows and doors (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, mounting foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: screwdriver with a drill for concrete, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fixing plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Note!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that you cannot save on a measuring tool.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking the glass units and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully pull the glass unit out of the frame, and then reinstall it.

The staples holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience are required.

Plus, if we are talking about installation in two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be turned over, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant is definitely required. Mounting is much easier on the mounting plates.

Helpful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill a metal frame inside the frame).

6. After that, on the outside of the frame, on all sides except for the base, the PSUL tape is glued - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, therefore, destruction. It is easier to install windows in the cold season, because the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape to the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not fall on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we turn to the window opening. Its geometrical dimensions are perfect, and the base ideally matches the horizon.

This happens by itself when building from aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile.

9. We attach the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention not to try to score them with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to set the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows, this is not difficult, since there will be no diagonal skewing of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the laminate trim at the base.

Note!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can only be held in the opening by the fastening plates.

Installation foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. Large windows will have to tinker with. The weight of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone.

I built a ladder of blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up.

3 on each side, except for the bottom.

Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

On the large windows, there is a support profile at the bottom, into which the window sill will be installed.

I also placed a laminate plate directly under the support profile, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The swing-out window is 2 times smaller in size, but I decided to use 8 anchor plates for it. an open sash will add stress to the frame.

On average, the installation of one window takes about 30 minutes. And a very serious mistake, which most people make - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.

Helpful advice!

Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to peel it off, besides this, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outer side of the frame).

13. We pass to the front door. It is a 3-hinged reinforced door with a full all-round frame. Inward opening is much more convenient than outward opening.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outward. When installing the door frame, the most important thing is to ensure an even fit around the perimeter.

I used 10 anchor plates to fix the door. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As in the case of windows - the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is required because it allows you to adjust the foam output volume.

Helpful advice!

There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.

First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. On the outside of the window, for this, there is a PSUL tape, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint it with paint. As for the application of foam, it is absolutely impossible to cut it.

The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled in exactly the same volume so that the excess does not protrude outward.

It is important not to overdo it with the deepening of the nozzle of the pistol, because do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping it down (until it hardens, this is easy to do). If the work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

Most likely, not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and the lock.

16. Done! The windows and the door should be left for a day until the foam completely solidifies. And we are moving on to the finishing stage.

17. We take plastic windowsills with a depth of 20 centimeters.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. Cut off the excess with a jigsaw and set it under the frame in the support profile.

It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills in the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth.

Note!

Before installing, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) tilt from the window.

18. Cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not rise with the foam.

And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. As with window frames, the expansion of the foam should be controlled and not allowed to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it is frozen.

19. Final chord - setting the ebb. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (having previously coated the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done!

Do not forget to remove the protective film from frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing difficult in installing windows and you can handle such a volume of work alone.

Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Also on the topic

Securities portfolio: assessment of profitability and risk Securities portfolio alm htm

Unsecured Loan Unsecured Loans Are Provided

Currency of England: Historical and Contemporary

Profits and Losses Report

Open interest on the exchange