Door installation services are sometimes prohibitively expensive. To save money, use the instructions of the website portal, thanks to which any home craftsman will be able to securely fasten the door block, cut in locks with hinges, aesthetically arrange the junctions and ensure the long-term operation of the doors.
Requirements for the opening and its preparation
Correct installation of doors is impossible if the opening does not meet the technical requirements. There are two aspects: dimensions and geometry, as well as the strength properties of the open end of the wall.
The dimensions of the opening are determined by the dimensions of the door block, which will be installed in them, and by the technological gaps that are the same for all types of interior doors. They are as follows: 3 mm each between the door and the frame, 10 mm between the door leaf and the floor, 20-30 mm between the door block and the edges of the opening. The minimum wall thickness is also limited, it is 80 mm - the standard value for a simple frame wall made of gypsum plasterboard.
The final dimensions of the opening also depend on the dimensions of the profile of the door frame, called the mullion. As a rule, its thickness in the place of the vestibule is 30 mm, but there are also non-standard products, especially often in sets of imported doors. Thus, the horizontal dimension of the opening is the width of the door leaf, which can be from 60 to 100 cm, plus two upright 30 mm each, plus 6 mm of the gap and at least 40 mm of the foam seam. The opening height is the length of the door leaf (200 cm standard and 190 cm for bathrooms), plus an upper gap of 3 mm, plus a lower gap, which can be 10-25 mm, depending on the presence of carpet on the floor or a sealing brush on the door.
The main fastening of the door is performed by assembly foam. However, mechanical fasteners will be required to temporarily secure the unit. For this, the ends of the opening must be strong, without crumbling and chipping fragments. To improve the contact properties of the foam, the opening should be abundantly moistened with water immediately before installing the door.
If the dimensions of the opening are such that the thickness of the glue line exceeds 40 mm, it is necessary to reduce the gap with overlays. For these purposes, an ordinary wooden beam or a frame structure with plasterboard sheathing can be used. It is important that the strength and sound insulation qualities of such a superstructure are not worse than those of the wall.
Assembling the door block
Doors are installed in series towards the common exit. During the curing period of the foam, which is about two hours, the door should be closed so that the uprights do not bend because of the expansion.
Before installation, the door block is assembled partially or completely. Partially means assembling the door frame, hanging the canvas on the hinges and installing the corner kerchiefs. With the complete assembly of the block, locks and all other fittings are also cut in.
It is possible to assemble a three- and four-sided box. The first option is the most common, because usually floor coverings are laid in a single contour. Boxes with a sill are usually placed at the entrance to a bathroom or rooms for which high-quality sound insulation is important.
Standing ones are assembled in a box with a straight cut, horizontal bars are applied to the side ends. The upper crossbar can protrude a couple of centimeters beyond the box. With an indent from the edge by about the thickness of the mullion, you need to cut the false side with a hacksaw with a fine tooth, without damaging the coating on the other planes. Then you should chop off the cut fragment with a chisel and align the chip flush with the adjacent shelves. A distance equal to the width of the blade plus 6 mm is laid from the undercut line with a tape measure and a second cut is made. The reverse side of the crossbar is processed as described above.
It is necessary to attach the side upright to the cutout as tightly as possible and drill one hole for the self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the false side. It is better to drill with a slight slope so that the self-tapping screw will securely pull the joint without creating a gap. When the U-shaped structure is assembled, the post ones are aligned parallel to each other and two more self-tapping screws are added to each corner, having previously drilled the holes.
Fittings insert
When the box is assembled, it must be laid on a flat floor with the porch up and put inside the canvas. Having set the upper gap, put a folded hinge between the door and the frame and mark its position with a pencil. The hinges are set at 220-250 mm from the top and bottom of the canvas.
After that, the door is removed back and the hinge plates are screwed on to a couple of screws according to the marks made. This is done in order to carefully cut around them along the contour with a sharp sectional blade, cutting off the lamination. After that, the loops are twisted, and a sample is made along the contour lines slightly less than the thickness of the metal plate. Professional installers use a hand-held milling cutter with a conductor for this, while a home craftsman has to work with a chisel and a hammer.
First, you need to beat off the contour with a chisel, setting the tool with a cut of the blade inward, so as not to flare the edges. When beating, the chisel needs to be buried a little more than the thickness of the hinge plate. It is also recommended to make several notches, dividing the cut out area into 6-8 fragments. To carefully remove the material, the chisel must be held at the angle of the blade sharpening, cutting off thin chips. It is not necessary to ideally clean up the sample, you just need to try on the plate quite often, achieving its uniform deepening. When the samples are made, the hinges are screwed in with the screws from the kit through the pre-drilled holes.
The locks are cut at such a height that their handles are flush with the switches. First, the lock case is applied on both sides of the door and the holes for the handle drive and the keyhole are marked. Their centers should be marked taking into account that the lock will move inside the door by the thickness of the end strip.
Further, the lock is attached to the end of the door with the body outward, the end plate is outlined with a knife and the selection is performed according to the same principle as when inserting the hinges. Having measured the indents between the edges of the end plate and the body, you need to mark the cut-in pocket on the sample. Most of the material is removed with a nib drill. You need to center the pen so that the holes overlap each other by a third of the diameter, the drill must be kept strictly perpendicular to the end. After that, you need to cut the remaining partitions with a wide chisel.
The cut-in pocket may be slightly larger, it is only important to leave enough body for attaching the decorative handles. Having drilled holes for the lock rod and the cylinder, insert the lock case into the pocket, fix the end plate and install the handles with decorative overlays. At the end of the installation, a striking plate is screwed under the latch, it must be placed in such a position that the closed door has no backlash.
Door block installation
When the box is fully assembled, on the side opposite to the opening, gussets are attached to its corners. This should be done after careful adjustment of the perpendicularity of the front ones. If the box is three-sided, the spacer bar should be screwed on at the bottom of the canvas. Although the traces from the fastening will subsequently be covered with platbands, it is better to shift them to the outside of the timber.
Immediately before installation, you need to install the canvas in the box and expand it inside, picking up incompressible linings of the required thickness. For these purposes, MDF or sets of plates for leveling insulating glass units are well suited. Before installation on the inside of the box, the false sides must be removed.
After installing the assembled door block in place, it is aligned vertically and the plane of the wall, then temporarily fixed in the opening. Fasteners are placed in a recess under a false rim; under the caps, it is imperative to perform countersinks in a secret. After that, you should close the door, install spacer pads under the canvas with a step of 30-40 cm, then you can start filling the foam seam.
Mounting adhesive foam does not have such a large expansion ratio as thermal insulation foam, which is used when installing windows and entrance doors. Therefore, the seam must be filled completely. First, a sealed contour is formed on one side, 5-7 minutes are given for the initial curing of the foam, then the remaining space is filled from the back side.
Sealing of abutments: slopes and platbands
The next day after installation, when the foam has finally hardened, its remains are cut off with a mounting knife flush with the door frame. On the side opposite to opening, you also need to clean a small groove on the back of the upright.
If the wall thickness exceeds the dimensions of the box, slopes are formed on the inside of the door. It is most correct to use for this purpose extensions for interior doors in the color of the covering of the canvas. Decorative design of interior doors should be carried out only when the flooring is laid and the walls are finished. There are two ways to install slopes:
- You can pre-plaster the slopes, observing their required dawn. In this case, after grouting, you should carefully clean the mounting groove with the stand with a trimming of the add-on. After the plaster dries, it is primed and the MDF panel is glued onto liquid nails.
- If the cavity under the panel is small, the extensions can be attached to mounting adhesive foam.
In both cases, you need to be able to properly cut the extensions and prepare in advance spacers, which are installed every 30-35 cm closer to the outer edge of the slopes. Slope panels are installed in the same position as the upright boxes: the top one covers the side ones. First, the upper end is trimmed longitudinally, driving it into the desired width, taking into account the curvature of the installation of the door block relative to the plane of the wall. The cutting line should be located on the side of the door in order to hide in the groove of the post. Then the edges are cut obliquely so that in the wide part the plank fits tightly into the opening.
Having temporarily fixed the top panel, you need to remove the dimensions of the side ones. First, a longitudinal undercut is made so that the edge of the extension becomes flush with the plane of the wall, then the part must be driven in length. At the bottom, the panel is trimmed at right angles to fit snugly to the flooring. In the upper part, an oblique undercut is made; for this, the height is measured in two places: close to the stand and along the outer angle of the slope.
Glue or foam should be applied with a thin flagellum along the outer edge of the extrusions and with a sufficiently thick layer, stepping back from the edge about 2/3 of the width. The point is that a thick lump of glue forms a support for the lever: by pressing on the outer edge of the panel, it is tightly pressed against the side of the mounting groove. The installation of the extensions is carried out in this order: first, the top panel is glued, which is supported by two side panels. After that, 4-5 horizontal spacers are inserted into the opening so that the extensions are tightly glued along the edges.
Platbands are best attached to mounting nails by applying a thin bead of glue along the edges. To fix the pads, you can press them with your hands for 3-5 minutes, or use clamps, after removing the doors. There are certain subtleties in trimming platbands. They should be installed with a distance of 2-3 mm from the corner edge of the upright or rounding of the extension.
There are two types of platbands: straight and rounded. In the latter case, the edges are cut at 45 ° in the miter box. When installing straight platbands, the side strips are first mounted, which should protrude 2 mm above the crossbar in height. The horizontal platband should be cut at 45 ° along the plane and glued between the vertical overlays. Any glue that has escaped can be wiped off immediately with a damp cloth or wiped off after drying with the hard side of the sponge.
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When purchasing a new door, the buyer receives an incomplete construction for installation. She has no room for hinges, locks are not cut in. The buyer has an inevitable question - how to collect
You can use the services of professionals or mount the structure yourself. To do this, you need to prepare tools and study the features of the technology.
Doors on the market are sold mainly complete with a frame, but sometimes they need to be matched to each other.
For the most part, new doors do not fit into old boxes either in size or style. In this regard, it is required to completely change the previous design.
Choice of door frame material
Now the market is dominated by products with a spectacular appearance and a low price, for example, from MDF - a composite of compressed fibers.
How to assemble a door frame made of MDF so that it will serve no worse than a wooden structure? The advantages of the new material are many, but here it is important to focus on the disadvantages. Despite its great strength, the box can deform if heavy. In addition, in a humid environment, MDF panels can peel off, and also swell, leading to a violation of the geometry of the opening.
Despite the disadvantages, affordable cost, good mechanical properties and a wide range of MDF parts make them a priority even when completing premium doors.
Required tools
Before assembling the door frame, you must first prepare the tools:
- hammer;
- a set of chisels;
- roulette;
- square;
- or with fine teeth;
- level with a plumb line;
- dowels, screws, hinges;
- miter box - a tool for cutting at certain angles;
- screwdrivers.
The work is greatly facilitated in the presence of an electric tool: a screwdriver, a jigsaw, an electric drill, a hammer drill, a router.
Preparing the doorway
It is important to choose the right door according to the width of the opening, so that subsequently there will be less work on fitting. The minimum gap must be at least 15 mm on each side.
Before installation, the evenness of the opening is checked. It is measured in several places vertically and horizontally.
How to assemble a door frame of an interior door if the opening is too large? To do this, strips of the required width are stuffed around the perimeter or the space is laid with bricks.
Other options are glazing the opening, making a frame made of wood or metal, and covering it with plasterboard.
Components of the door frame
The box is made of timber and consists of fragments:
- hinge bar and porch;
- lintel (upper beam);
- threshold.
Thus, in order to assemble the door frame (it is equipped with a threshold only for a heavy canvas, used mainly at the entrance to an apartment), it is required to correctly connect its component parts.
For interior doors, thresholds are rarely installed.
Door frame assembly methods
The assembly is done very carefully so as not to damage the decorative coatings. Even one minor chip or scratch spoils the appearance of the structure.
Hinges are required to install the doors in the frame. In interior designs, two are enough, and for the entrance, a third is often installed.
The main difficulty in assembling the box lies in the correct execution of the cuts and the connection of the horizontal bar with the vertical ones. Their profiled structure makes it difficult for newbies. The installer must fit all the elements exactly to the dimensions. Before assembling the door frame, you should choose the installation technology. The beam is attached in several ways.
Spike connection
The most durable and reliable, but at the same time the most difficult is the spike connection. For this, grooves and ridges are made at the joints of the bars, according to their thickness. Here you also need the ability to use it. The connection is made without fasteners, but many craftsmen make additional reinforcement with galvanized nails.
It is not so important which part to make a groove or a tenon on. In any case, a rigid connection is provided.
A router is a tool for professionals and it is impractical to purchase it to install even several doors. When assembling the door, the most affordable way is to dock at an angle of 45 0 or 90 0.
Assembly at right angles can be done even by a beginner, if all the operations are performed correctly.
How to assemble a box with docking 45 0
At the junction of the horizontal and vertical beams, cuts are made. Preliminary measurements are taken several times so as not to make a mistake in the calculations. Especially accurately it is necessary to adjust the horizontal bar in order to correctly select the gap of 3-4 mm and the width of the door. The racks can subsequently be sawed off from the bottom after assembling the box, since they are made with a margin in length. After the cut, the surfaces to be joined are leveled with a chisel.
The timber is usually fastened with self-tapping screws, at an angle of 45 0. To prevent the wood from splitting, holes are made under them with a drill, the diameter of which should be smaller than that of the core of the self-tapping screw. The drilling depth is made less than the length of the fastener so that the connection is reliable. One joint requires two self-tapping screws on one side. You can add another one in the middle, on the other side of the corner.
How to assemble a door frame yourself with a docking 90 0
The assembly method is best for beginners. First of all, the door leaf is measured for compliance with a rectangular shape. It is often observed that one side is slightly different in size from the other. This deviation must be taken into account when sawing the racks. Also, cuts from the ends of the timber are checked, which must be strictly at an angle of 90 0. The workpieces may come from the factory with an uneven cut.
The connection of the horizontal strip with the vertical ones is also made with self-tapping screws.
Checking for correct connections
The check is carried out by placing the box on a flat horizontal surface and placing the door leaf on top of it. If it comes in with a slight gap, then the assembly was done correctly.
The lower ends of the racks are sawn off, as they must abut against the floor. The horizontalness of the floor covering in the doorway is preliminarily checked. Deviations should be taken into account when sawing off racks.
Important! The blanks are cut from the veneer side to prevent peeling.
Installation of hinges
Before you need to choose the side where it will open. Depending on this, loops of a certain type are selected - right or left. The cloth for fastening the hinges is selected more massive, without defects and cracks. The place of their installation is marked at a distance of 15-25 cm from the door end. The awnings are divided into a large part for the frame and a small part for the door leaf. Then the hinge is applied to the end of the door and outlined with a pencil, and then with a knife. The markings on the box are made in the same way. In this case, the door leaf is attached to the box and the coincidence of the marks under the hinges is checked.
The edges of the door leaf and hinges are aligned, avoiding distortions. The hinges should face towards the door opening. When marking, it is unacceptable to confuse the top and bottom of the door. It depends on how it will be installed after fixing the hinges. If the door has glass, their location should also be taken into account.
Using a chisel and a hammer, a place is cut out for the hinges to a depth of 3-5 mm so that they enter flush with the wooden surface. Fittings fittings are made with particular care and precision. Then hinges are applied, self-tapping screws are marked and screwed in. The marks should be aligned with the centers of the holes so as not to split the wood when screwing in the fasteners. To prevent the hinges from tightening with self-tapping screws, the pencil marks are additionally marked with an awl.
The correct fit of the loop is checked by applying a ruler. When protruding, the platform deepens under it, but not more than the required level. If the hinges are installed correctly, the flaps should open 180 0. The load on the door should not exceed the specified one. Usually it is 50 kg.
Installing the frame in the doorway
The work does not end with the moments describing how to properly assemble the door frame. It still needs to be installed so that the door opens and closes well. To do this, the box is carefully placed in the opening and temporarily secured with pieces of cardboard or foam. The level is checked for the verticality of the hinge bar. Then the wooden wedges are cut.
They are installed under the hinges. These parts also clog in the upper corners. To prevent the box from moving from opposite sides, two wedges are driven in with the overlap of sharp parts. The positions of the sidewall and lintel are checked with a level, since displacements are possible when wedging. The box should be flush with the room wall. The wedges must not protrude outward.
Questions of how to assemble and install the door frame, as well as hanging the door leaf, are resolved together, since everything is a single structure.
The door frame is fixed to the wall with dowels at the hinge landing points. Wedges are also located there to prevent deformation of the timber. The feigned side has not yet been exposed.
For greater stability of the exposed elements of the box, they must be partially foamed. The surfaces are pre-cleaned and moistened with water, which increases the adhesion of the foam by an order of magnitude.
Hinges are attached to the door leaf, after which it is installed on the lining in the doorway. Then the door hinges are attached to the frame of the box: first from above, then from below.
The door is closed and the porch is exposed using wedges. When all the gaps are set, you should foam the box around the entire perimeter. In this case, it is recommended to install spacers in it to prevent swelling of parts.
Conclusion
If you have the necessary tools, you can install the doors yourself. For this, the most important thing is to figure out how to assemble the door frame. If you correctly and consistently perform all the installation operations, everything will work out.
Do-it-yourself assembly and installation of interior doors is a very serious and responsible business. Therefore, in this article, in order to independently assemble, install and save money, we will analyze step by step such a topic as assembling and installing interior doors with our own hands, because not everyone can independently assemble and install the box and doors correctly. Calling a specialist will cost you a pretty penny, and if the house is new and you need to install more than, say, 10 doors, it can be ruined at all.
The most common on the market, among ready-made interior doors, are doors made of natural wood, MDF and fiberboard.
Fiberboard doors consist of a wooden frame sheathed with laminated fiberboard sheets. This is one of the cheapest types of doors and also the lightest. But the strength of such doors leaves much to be desired, and besides, they are afraid of moisture, because of which it can "unscrew" a little. So if you want to put such a door into the bathroom, then you should think carefully first.
Interior doors made of MDF are more durable, resistant to moisture and have better sound insulation in relation to doors made of fiberboard, respectively, and their price is slightly higher. Well, as the saying goes, "you have to pay for quality."
Interior doors made of natural wood, as you probably already guessed, are among the most durable and expensive types of interior doors. And the prices for them depend on what kind of wood they are made of.
They are also divided into types by.
Types of door frames for interior doors.
Fiberboard boxes, like doors, do not differ in particular strength, respectively, and their price is also low. Due to their fragility, heavy doors such as MDF and wood cannot be hung on such boxes. Since the boxes are made of fiberboard, then the doors should be of the same material.
The door frame made of dry, untreated profiled timber is, respectively, much stronger than the previous ones, and the price is higher, although it needs a finishing finish with your own hands.
The door frame made of laminated wood is similar to the previous one, except that it no longer requires processing. However, when buying such a box, you need to pay attention to the quality of lamination, if the layer is too thin, then it is more susceptible to physical influences, and this is the appearance of scratches and scuffs, cracks may appear and subsequently fly around.
Preparatory steps before assembling and installing interior doors with your own hands.
First you need to dismantle the old interior door, remove the old door frame and remove the poorly fitting cement. If there is such a need, then level the doorway with various dry mixtures, of which a huge amount is offered on the market, for example, Teplon.
If, after removing the old door frame, too large chips remain at the doorway, then to level them, you can fix the board to the slope that needs to be leveled, it will act as a formwork, and hammer potholes along it and along the walls with the prepared mortar. After the solution has hardened, you can carefully remove the board. You can fix it using the same dowel-nails or using spacers. After leveling, you can proceed to putty, if there is such a need.
Assembling and installing interior doors with your own hands, the main stages.
Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors usually begins with assembling the box, installing the hinges, and after that we install the box in the doorway, anchor and foam it. We install the door leaf, an additional element, if necessary, and finally, the installation of platbands. If the door frame has a threshold, then the door should be folded against it.
DIY tools and consumables for assembling a door frame and installing interior doors.
Building level
Roulette, square
saw, hammer, hacksaw for metal
cutter, chisel
perforator
screwdriver
miter box
drills 3-4 mm and drills 4-6 mm
wood screws
dowel-nails
polyurethane foam
wooden blocks, wedges
drills for concrete and wood.
Assembling the door frame of the interior door with your own hands.
1. First of all, you need to choose a flat surface, it can be either a floor or a couple of tables shifted towards each other, and lay something soft, cardboard packaging from the door will do. We put vertical bars (upright, hinge and porch) from the door frame with the porch to the top and put the door leaf into them. Now we need to "fit" both posts so that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between them and the door leaf. To make it easier, you can use pieces of cardboard to maintain the gap, inserting them between the canvas and the stand.
2. Now we need to cut the top bar to size. To do this, we put a crossbar on top of our lying post and canvas, align "flush" with one of the post and mark the length. It remains to saw off the block along the mark. If you have a laminated door frame, then you need to start sawing from the laminated side. If you do it the other way around, you can chip off the laminate and ruin the look.
3. Again, we apply the crossbar to the uprights and the canvas, and mark the size of the projections for cutting on the upper crossbar or on the upright ones. For cutting, a hacksaw for metal is best suited, since its teeth are smaller and thinner, so the laminated surface will not chip. It is best to cut not at the mark, but next to it. When sawing, be careful not to hit the laminated surface below. When the cuts are ready, the excess protrusions are neatly removed with a chisel.
4. We attach the lintel to the front and fasten them with two screws on each side. Usually, the upper lintel bar is attached to the upright ones with wood screws in sizes 4 * 75 and 4 * 50. Of course, it is initially desirable to drill holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws, especially for boxes made of fiberboard. Now we also need to maintain a 3mm gap between the lintel and the top of the canvas, again, you can use pieces of cardboard.
5. Let's check the diagonal just in case, and if everything is fine, then proceed to sawing off the front ones. They need to be sawed off so that there is a gap of about 10 mm between the floor and the canvas, there should also be a gap between the floor and the upright 1-2 mm to ensure thermal expansion of the floor covering. In general, for interior doors without a threshold, it is customary to leave a gap between the floor and the canvas of 5-10 mm, this is necessary to ensure air exchange, and a gap of 10-15 mm is left at the kitchen doors. Here it is needed for a sudden gas leak, since the gas is heavier, it sinks to the floor, and when the door is closed with a small gap, the kitchen will quickly fill with gas, and for it to explode, it is enough to turn on the light, and with a normal gap it will spread throughout the apartment, due to which the leak can be detected by smell even before the critical volume.
If you have a door frame with semicircular cross-sections of the narthex, then a rectangular connection will not work, since the joints will be very noticeable, in such cases the joints are made at an angle of 45 °. You will need a miter box to make these connections.
When assembling and installing door frames and interior doors with a threshold, such as entrances or to bathrooms, the threshold is installed in the same way as the lintel. The only difference is that after installing the top crossbar, the uprights are sawn off 3 mm longer than the door leaf in order to maintain the gap.
Installation of hinges, awnings, on the box and interior door.
Before installing the hinges (hinges), you must first determine where the doors will open, outward or inward, and in which direction, left or right. Accordingly, we choose the left and right loops. If you turn on imaginative thinking, and imagine that the door opens on you to the left, then you need “left” hinges, if to the right, then “right”. The hinges consist of two parts, cards, one of which is screwed to the door leaf, and the second to the frame.
Where the door will open, to the inside of the room or to the outside, depends on the premises where the doors are installed. If the installation of interior doors is carried out in small rooms (pantry, bathrooms, balcony, loggia), then the doors should open outward, in large rooms the doors usually open inward.
1. Now mark the hinges on the frame and door leaf. Usually, from the top of the top loop to the edge of the fabric should be 200 mm and from the bottom of the bottom loop to the edge. We take out pieces of cardboard from the vertical slots between the canvas and the racks (do not touch the upper crossbar and the door of the cardboard), move the canvas to the side where the lock will be. Insert the loops into the enlarged gap, measure, and mark their locations with a pencil. For the convenience of work from below, the front ones can be neatly fastened with a wooden plank, a bar.
2. After marking, take the canvas out of the box, put it neatly on the edge, apply the loops to the marked places and draw a pencil around them along the contour.
3. Then you need to make a sample for samples with a depth of the thickness of one sample card, well sharpened with a chisel or cutter. Since the selection for the hinges cannot be corrected in the future, then you need to work carefully. Working with a chisel, you first need to walk along the contour of the future loop, while retreating 1-2 mm inward and try not to cut deeper than the thickness of the loop card. When sampling timber for sheds, it is necessary to regularly try on a sample map to control the boundaries and depth of sampling.
4. We apply the hinge cards to the selected places and fasten them to the door, initially drilling holes for the self-tapping screws so that the canvas does not crack. The caps of the self-tapping screws should be flush.
5. Now you need to embed the hinges on the stanchions, for this we put the canvas back to the box and check the markings on the box, we also make a selection and fasten the second card (part) of the hinge. It is only necessary to carry out the insert into the door frame carefully due to the fragility of the structure, so it must be well held, it is not advisable to lift it. You can cut the hinges into the rack before assembling the box, having made all the necessary measurements and markings for this, or after installing the door frame in the doorway.
Many advise to install three hinges on the door, the third is placed either in the middle or between the middle and the upper hinge (hinge) about 50 cm from the top of the door leaf in order to reduce the load on the upper hinge. Because over time, under the weight of the door leaf, self-tapping screws screwed into the upper hinge begin to break their seats and the door sags, and various attempts to strengthen the upper hinge do not help. Therefore, experienced craftsmen recommend installing three hinges at once, and then it will be difficult to find the same one.
If you want to simplify your work or are afraid to spoil the door with the frame, then you can install overhead "butterfly" hinges that do not need a tie-in, but there is one thing, but it is not advisable to install them on doors weighing more than 40 kg, but for budget (laminated, veneered) they are great.
Do-it-yourself door frame installation.
Before starting the installation, you need to make sure that the doorway is clean and there is nothing superfluous in it. If the opening is very wide, then it can be reduced by installing one or two beams in the places where the upright ones are installed, the width required to the missing size.
During the installation of the door frame, you need to ensure that the crossbar is horizontal and the upright ones are vertical. We fasten the upper part of the box using wedges at the junction of the upright and transverse, if the opening is much wider than the door frame, then you can install the bars. To secure the lower part, you will need a bar 6 mm wider than the width of the door leaf in order to maintain the gap, it will play the role of a temporary lower crossbar to wedge the lower part of the door frame. We expose the stanchions strictly vertically, check them with a level, put the lower strut and expand with wedges. You can check the box diagonally.
When the door frame is exposed and aligned, fix it.
We fix the door frame with dowels or anchors. If the walls are brick or concrete, then first you need to drill holes in the mullions with a drill in wood at the points of attachment of the hinges, and on the opposite rack, to fix the box, it is drilled in the place of the vestibule. Just in case, we again check the level of the door frame and if everything is as it should be, we put a drill bit on concrete with a diameter of 4 mm and carefully outline the location of the future holes for the dowels through the front ones. After that, the door frame can be removed, we put a drill on concrete with a larger diameter of 6 mm, drill holes for dowels or anchors, insert them, and then put the door frame in place.
We place screws, dowels in the resulting holes, but you need to drive them only halfway. It is recommended to check the correct setting again using a level and, if necessary, adjust it correctly. If everything stands as you need, you can safely drive screws or dowels all the way. But be careful, if the screws are tightly tightened, the box may bend, so that this does not happen, you can use wooden wedges. Just in case, we again check the door frame with a level and if everything is fine, then you can reinstall the door. We check for opening and closing, we also check the gaps between the door leaf and the box.
There is also a way to fix the door frame. We need fastening plates, straight hangers for attaching the profile to the wall, used in working with drywall. They can also be used in conjunction with the above method. You only need to use them before finishing the walls or grind the seats for them, fix the door frame, cut off the excess from the plates and finish at the attachment points.
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Metal brackets can be used instead of hangers.
And if beauty and aesthetics are not important to you, or you are in a hurry, then you can fix the door frame simply by drilling the mast in two, three places on each side and drown the caps of the screws.
A little advice. Try not to anchor in the masonry seams, in them dowels, anchors almost do not hold.
Now, with the help of polyurethane foam, we finally fix the door frame, having previously pasted it over with tape. To increase the adhesion of the foam to the wall, moisten it with water. Since the foam increases in volume during drying, you need to fill about a third of the empty space between the doorway and the box. Vertical joints should be filled from the bottom. After foaming, the door must be closed, pieces of cardboard should be inserted between the box and the door so that the foam does not squeeze the door frame, otherwise the door may not open, or you can spread the door frame with spacers. For the foam to dry completely, you need to wait one day, and then it will securely fix the box.
After that, you can remove all unnecessary and proceed to the installation of platbands.
Doorway decoration
Platbands on the door
The seam with foam between the box and the wall is closed with platbands. In the corners, the platbands are connected to the "mustache", with the help of a bevel or a miter box, they are cut off at an angle of 45 degrees. The platbands are attached to the door frame with finishing nails or screws with special plugs, initially drilling holes about 50-75 cm apart. Platbands should retreat from the edge of the door frame by 10-15mm. on the thickness of the hinge connection.
Dobory in the doorway.
Since sometimes the thickness of the doorway is greater than the thickness of the door frame, the opening is finished with an additional strip. You can fasten the bar to the opening with construction silicone.
If the doorway is wider than the door frame and you do not want to install extras, then you can plaster the "excess" of the opening. You can read how to do this in the article. If the door frame is made of fiberboard, then such a finish cannot be used, since fiberboard is afraid of moisture and can swell.
Assembling and installing interior doors with your own hands, as you can see, does not require a lot of investment in time, and the efforts of many people. Doors can be installed by one person, the main thing is to do everything correctly, do not rush, measure everything accurately and you will succeed no worse than professional installers.
Making a door frame yourself
It often happens that the door frame is not included with the door, or is included, but is sold disassembled, or it is available, but does not fit your doorway - not all types of door frames are suitable for the openings for which they are intended ... Or you are simply confident in your abilities and want to save money by making a box with your own hands. And there is nothing impossible in this. But still, before making the door frame, check the availability of the necessary tools and materials, which will be discussed below.
What does the door frame consist of?
All types of door frames are based on four profile bars - two long ones, located vertically and making up the side parts of the frame, and two short transverse ones, which are respectively the upper and lower parts of the frame.
Removing the dimensions of the future door frame
Bars for a box can be bought ready-made or made by yourself, it all depends on your desire, skills and available tools.
If you are making a box from scratch, you need to start by taking measurements. This can be done in two ways:
If you are based on a door to be installed, measure its sides first, adding 5 cm to each. Then measure the top and bottom of the door, also adding 5 cm each. Calculate your results and you can start cutting.
Preparation for sawing and manufacturing of parts
It is better to start with the bars intended for the side parts of the door frame. The prepared bars are placed on the floor, at the same level, so that the grooves are on top. On them it is necessary to mark the upper and lower boundaries of the door, taking into account the thickness of the threshold. Then apply the bars intended for the upper and lower parts of the door, on which marks of the future cutting line are also made.
After that, you can cut the blanks for the box. First, to avoid mistakes, it is advisable to cut the workpieces with a certain margin. After that, they should be tried on, and only then a more accurate fit of the parts should be made.
Manufacturing and joining the door frame
There are two ways to dock the side and transverse parts of the box:
- at an angle of 90 degrees;
- at an angle of 45 degrees.
The second method is more difficult, it requires certain skills and utmost care. And for those less experienced in such matters, it is better to use the first method, and cut the side parts at an angle of 90 degrees.
Side surface preparation
Then, on one of the side parts, which will be located on the side of the hinges, you need to mark the places where the hinges will be located. This is done by attaching this part to the side surface of the door. The depth of the groove is made equal to the thickness of the hinge flap. Recesses for the hinges are cut very carefully so as not to damage the door leaf. It is easy to do this with your own hands using a chisel and a hammer, while specialists usually use an electric cutter.
Next, you need to put the loops into the grooves prepared for them in this way, and with the help of a drill make grooves for self-tapping screws on the side surface. Moreover, the diameter of the recesses should be less than the diameter of the screws that will be located here. Then, using self-tapping screws, the hinges are attached to the door leaf.
A latch lock is installed on the other side surface of the door.
DIY box assembly
It is most convenient to assemble the details of the door frame into a single whole with your own hands on the floor covered with cardboard or paper. The actual assembly of the box consists in connecting the prepared parts with self-tapping screws. But first, it is necessary to very carefully combine one of the corners of the box, and drill a couple of holes from the side of the transverse bar into the end of the longitudinal part with a drill or screwdriver. This is done to prevent damage to the door leaf with self-tapping screws in the future. Then self-tapping screws are screwed into the prepared holes. Thus, two self-tapping screws are screwed into all corners of the box (at right angles).
Do-it-yourself door frame installation
After the manufacture and assembly of the box is completed, you can start installing it in the doorway, for which you first need to "try" the made box. Check the verticality of the box with a plumb line, and the perpendicularity of all corners. It is possible that you will first need to adjust the box, which consists in eliminating gaps using wedges or foam.
After that, the box is attached to the slopes with dowels. Remember to make sure that the wedges and strips are not visible anywhere. Only after this can the door frame manufacturing process be considered complete. Then it remains only to hang the door leaf on the hinges and attach the platbands.
In general, assembling a door frame with your own hands is not as easy as it might seem. Still, for this you need to have some experience. But if you are still determined, first you should study the theory of this process well, and study useful photo and video materials on it.
How to make a door frame: DIY process
The door frame is basically a frame that contains bars and folds. Reinforce the box with special bolts or use steel overlays.
The door frame can be assembled by hand using wooden blocks and fasteners.
Use a plumb line and level to prevent unevenness when setting the box. In the case of stone walls, the box is fixed to wooden corks using nails. If the walls include slabs, the structures will only be supported by brackets.
Self-production of the box
In order to understand how to make a door frame with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with some points of the work itself.
To begin with, the dimensions are removed. There are 2 ways to collect data:
- on the doorway;
- on the installed door.
For example, the calculation of data for a valid door. First, measure the sides, add 5 cm on all sides of the door. Next, measure the threshold and the upper part of the system, leaving room for the allowance. Then they calculate the footage and start sawing.
Next, put the bars on the floor, they will be needed when setting the side box. They should lie on the level, with grooves on top. The upper and lower boundaries of the future door are noted, while the thickness of the threshold is added. Certain notches are made from the bars that are applied to the threshold and crossbar so that the sawing line is visible.
The scheme for taking measurements of the doorway.
Then the prepared materials are sawn for collection. After cutting the blanks, you need to adjust them to the appropriate size. In one of the blanks, a slot is made for future loops using a chisel and a hammer. Before you start doing, you need to know the necessary side of the opening of the structure.
To continue self-assembly, you must use screws and nails for the strength of the future structure. Next, hinges are hung and the doorway is strengthened. Align the gaps.
The necessary tools to help assemble the door are:
Use a set of screwdrivers of different configurations, use pliers, crowbars, small nail clamps.
A hammer drill is required to punch a hole in the concrete. A miter saw will be able to prepare materials for the door. The electric router does quite a lot. With the help of it, the holes of the necessary locks and hinges are made in a short period of time. If you have a large set of cutters, even better. If it is necessary to make a door frame with special quality, a woodworking machine will also be needed.
Some features
Door frame device.
The process itself looks something like this. First, a smooth board 5 cm thick (maybe several) is prepared, 4 identical segments are made from it. 2 of them are equal to the length, 2, respectively, to the width of the opening.
In this case, the segments are processed only on 3 sides - they must be made very smooth, the 4th is placed near the wall. Focusing on the width of the board, a cut is made into which the door will be inserted.
The incision is made only on the side where it opens. If a double door is planned, cuts are made on all sides. It is easier to make cuts on the machine, where it is possible to raise the table and adjust the required length. The existing material is cut to the required length and all ends are machined.
When all the necessary blanks have been prepared, they begin to process the transverse sections. The longitudinal compartments of standard doors are 193 cm, the transverse ones are 90 cm.The cut at the end of the door frame should be 1.5 cm deep and 5 cm wide.
First, it is necessary to attach all the straps located on top and on the side, and only then they begin to install the frame itself in the doorway. In this case, there must necessarily be a space between the door and the wall of 2 cm. In the future, it is used for thermal insulation.
One of the important elements in securing the door is gash. There are 2 options for filing boxes: 45 ° and 90 °.
The scheme washed down the door frame.
Washed down the boxes at 45 ° as follows:
- boards are taken;
- the necessary marks are put on the inside, the unnecessary is removed;
- the sawing angle inside should be 135 °, and outside 45 °, the length of the vertical boxes should be standard and the same.
The same is done with horizontal small bars. It differs only in that it is necessary to saw off from all sides. The most important thing is not to be mistaken in size.
To assemble the frame at 90 °, place the finished parts of the future door on a flat surface. The corners are neatly connected with self-tapping screws, screwing 2 self-tapping screws into all corners (at right angles).
To keep the door frame in the required position, several methods can be used:
A box is inserted into the door opening and correctly installed in the center. At the end of all work, be sure to check for cracks, distortions and other irregularities. If necessary, use a seal.
In order for the box to be fixed qualitatively in those places where contact with the wall occurs, a seal is placed.
At the end of all additional operations, check the perpendicularity of the elements from the side.
Of course, if you use all the specialized tools and helpers who can supply parts if necessary, making the door yourself will be quite simple. Therefore, choose the option that suits you. Good luck!
We collect and install the door frame with our own hands
In most cases, the door frame is already assembled together with the door. But you can often come across a product from different component parts, especially if you need to assemble a structure for a non-standard doorway. The very process of assembling and installing such a device is quite complicated, especially if there is at least minimal knowledge and skills in carpentry.
But for a person nothing is impossible, and therefore he is able to assemble a door frame with his own hands. Naturally, this will require a lot of effort to carry out the correct measurements and material processing. But if you adhere to a consistent algorithm for performing work, everything can be done in a short time, saving both time and money.
What is a door frame for?
Under the door frame a special element is implied... used in the design of the door opening, which in its essence acts as a supporting structure on which the canvas is hung. In its shape, it repeats the contour of the doorway, framing its inner part. It is on it that the hinges are hung, on which the door leaf will open or close. Without a door frame, it will simply not be possible to install the door itself.
The box includes several main elements: side frames, top peppers and a sill. If necessary, the kit can be supplemented with add-ons. But in order to fully understand the sequence of carrying out all the work with your own hands, you need to consider all the stages, starting with the choice of a suitable material and ending with the installation of the finished box in the doorway. But let's talk about everything in order.
Material for making a door frame
If the homeowner decided to independently assemble and install the door frame, then first you need to pick up quality material... In this case, the choice should be based on the parameters of the weight and dimensions of the canvas, since all the load from it will go to the door frame. At the same time, the following materials are considered popular for assembling a door frame:
- wood;
- metal corners;
- ready-made MDF sidewalls.
The most popular is box made of wood... which you can easily do yourself. At the same time, the selection of suitable bars usually does not create any special problems. There are already prepared blanks on the construction market, from which you can quickly design a frame for a doorway with your own hands. All that is needed is to adjust to the required dimensions and connect the constituent elements into a single structure.
Wood is a durable, practical and most importantly environmentally friendly material. It is quite easy to process. In most cases, pine is used to assemble a door frame with their own hands, but due to its comparative softness, it does not have high strength. Therefore, for the front door, it is better to use a harder type of wood, such as oak.
If we consider MDF as a material for a door frame, its use is advisable only in openings between rooms with a low level of humidity. Metal structures are leading in their strength, but to work with them you need a welding machine, and outwardly they do not look very aesthetically pleasing.
Self-assembly tool kit
To obtain a high-quality result, it is important prepare tool according to the following list:
- a hacksaw for wood and a miter box for cutting parts at the right angle;
- an electric screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
- chisel for sampling chamfers for door sheds;
- drill with rebound function for fixing the box to the wall;
- construction hammer, water level and a simple pencil;
- a cylinder of polyurethane foam, nails, wedges and fasteners.
Preliminary preparatory stage
Chamfers are selected on the door leaf with an electric cutter or chisel for installing awnings. Important keep the minimum distance from the extreme upper and lower parts of the canvas to the loop, which should be 200 mm.
At the next stage, the slopes are cut strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the prepared part is applied to the door leaf, and the places for attaching the awnings on the jamb are outlined. Again, with the help of a chisel or its electric substitute, recesses are made according to the size of the loops.
In the received grooves are invested matching stitch halves... which are fastened with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. But holes are pre-made to prevent cracking of the wood. It is important that the diameter of the drill is slightly less than the thickness of the self-tapping screw.
DIY box assembly and installation
The next stage of independent work is the assembly of the door frame, which provides a certain sequence of actions .
The ends of the upper cross member of the door frame, in accordance with the dimensions of the leaf, are cut off at an angle of 45 degrees.
If we consider how to install a door frame in a wooden building, then there are some nuances. First of all, you need to provide removable casing from the side of the handle, thanks to which you can increase the width of the structure. This is primarily due to the shrinkage of the wood after the construction of the house for 6 years.
Installing the latch lock
Fastening the door handle is a rather important stage, since it will depend on it ease of use of the door for its direct purpose.
The door is set in a horizontal position and at a distance of 100-120 cm from the bottom on the side opposite to the awnings, a hole for the latch is drilled with a crown of the corresponding diameter.
Finally, also with self-tapping screws handles are fixed and decorative special overlays. They are fastened with special hexagons.
Hanging the door leaf
In the next step the canvas is hung on the hinges... fixed on the door frame.
In conclusion, the box is secure fixed with wooden wedges... and the striker plate for the latch is installed in its place, thereby hiding the place where the structure is attached to the wall.
Filling the mounting gaps with foam
In order to prevent drafts from entering the room through the gaps between the frame and the wall, as well as to more reliably fix the door structure, all the gaps filled with polyurethane foam .
The faceplates are closed using masking tape to prevent the ingress of foam.
Installation of decorative platbands
The final stage in the installation of the door frame is its decorative finishing with the help of platbands.
If there is a minimum set of tools, consumables, and the main desire, everyone will be able to assemble and install the door frame with their own hands. In this case, all work will take just a few hours... The main thing is to control the installation of the box in accordance with the water level and the building plumb line.
Zabarankov Stanislav Egorovich
The doors are installed after the completion of the apartment renovation, but before, so it is customary. But if you just decided to replace it with a new one, this article will also be interesting to you. The cost of the door block depends on the configuration and size, if you buy a complete set of ready-made frame + door leaf + accessories, such a door will cost more and you may have to tinker with fitting the box into the opening. If you decide to install the interior door yourself, we will do it correctly so as not to waste money and time.
How the interior door is installed
The door frame is the main supporting structure from which the assembly should be started, then it is necessary to cut in and install the door hardware, after which you can fix the frame in the doorway, hang the door leaf and finally close the box with platbands. Such a plan, let's go!
Door frame design
Depending on the size of the doorway, the door leaf and frame are selected. The width of the box depends on the thickness of the wall, in panel houses the wall thickness is 130 mm and, accordingly, the box should be the same width (excluding the platbands). In a store or at the construction market, you can buy a box from 80 to 220 mm, you can easily fit your size. In the table you will find the door size corresponding to your opening; 
If you have not found a door frame of a suitable width, you can extend the frame with extras.
Not so long ago, ready-made telescopic door frames appeared, the installation of such a door is much easier, if you install the doors yourself for the first time - I recommend it. 
Installation of a threshold in the box of an interior door is not at all necessary; most often, interior doors are installed in a U-shaped box, consisting of a hinge rack, a lintel bar, and a false rack. A complete door frame is complemented by a bottom rail or sill.
When calculating the dimensions of doors and frames, do not forget:
- The gap for the polyurethane foam must be at least 10 mm;
- The gap between the door leaf and the frame is 3-5 mm on each side;
- For an equal floor (tiles, laminate, linoleum), the gap between the floor and the door is 5-10 mm, for carpet or carpet - 15 mm;
- If the size of the doorway is insufficient, it will have to be expanded with a puncher;
- If the door frame is smaller than the opening, you can fill the voids with strips of drywall or plywood;
Assembling the door frame
Before installation, the box is cut into the size of the opening and assembled. You can saw the joints at an angle of 45 degrees (if you have a miter saw).
Or at an angle of 90 degrees, this is an easier way, but here it is also good to use a miter box and the old rule "Measure seven times, cut one!"
It is convenient to assemble the box on a flat, level surface. We fasten the ceiling beam to the uprights with self-tapping screws, 2-3 on each side. The joints can be glued with PVA glue and then tightened with screws.
Assembling a door frame is not difficult, watch a special video about the door frame assembly process, which shows everything in detail.
Video door frame assembly
Video installation of a door frame in the opening
Video how to properly foam the door frame in the opening
To be honest, the installation of an interior door is an undertaking for a professional, it is better to entrust such work to an experienced craftsman who has the necessary tools and experience at his disposal, but if your hands are combing, we are always ready to help with advice, call!
Matvey Kolosov - specialist "HUSBAND for HOUR"
5 rules before going to the store
There are several rules that I try to adhere to before going to the store for tools or spare parts: 
- 1) - Make a shopping list so that you do not forget anything and do not buy too much.
- 2) - Take a photo of the repaired unit or spare part assembly, label with markings if any. It's easier to communicate with the seller, show the photo and he will immediately understand you.
- 3) - Take accurate measurements, do not trust "measurements by eye".
- 4) - Do not buy "for future use", such purchases, as a rule, collect dust in the closet or garage, and in case of repeated breakdowns they cannot be found and you have to buy again.
- 5) - Do not buy used tools or spare parts, no one knows how much they will last and who knows, perhaps an “unheard of cheap” electric drill was stolen. As you know, free - only in a mousetrap.
If you have any doubts or need advice, call us at 8922-722-91-00 or ask a question in our group