Drywall on the walls with a self-tapping screw without a frame. High-quality and correct fastening of drywall

How to fix the curvature of the walls? The most common answer to this question is the use of drywall. Due to its advantages, it is one of the most optimal options for interior decoration.

As a rule, a special frame made of a metal profile is mounted for its fastening. But this may not always be appropriate. For example, for small rooms, where the area is already small, the use of a frame will make it even smaller.

There is a way out of this situation - wall cladding with drywall without a frame. How to do this correctly, we will consider a little later. And to begin with, let's talk directly about the finishing material itself.

Advantages of drywall

It is often used for finishing ceilings, walls, building partitions, as it has the following advantages:

• durability (not subject to decay and decomposition);
• beautiful appearance;
• environmental friendliness (does not contain substances harmful to human health);
• ease of installation (does not require any unusual skills, especially if we mount drywall without a frame);
• ability to accumulate heat;
• vapor permeability (the material “breathes”, that is, it allows air vapor to pass through (if moisture resistance is required, then a special impregnation is applied to it);
• sound absorption - this is especially true for apartments (to enhance this property, when installing drywall without a frame, a special soundproofing film is attached on top);
• fire resistance (it does not burn);
• perfectly flat surface;
• provides a wide variety of possibilities for further processing (painting, wallpapering, tiling, etc.);
• flexibility (allows you to make curved shapes)
• light weight - creates a minimum load on the walls (and if we install drywall on walls without a frame, the load will be very minimal).

Fastening methods

Let's return to the question of how to sheathe walls with drywall without a frame. This method is less common than the second - sheathing with a frame. With a frameless approach, the sheets are fastened with a special glue.

Mounting with a frame is more difficult, it involves assembling a structure from metal profiles. In this case, the time, effort and finances are more than in the first case. But then there is the possibility of additional insulation of the walls.

In addition, the use of metal structures allows you to hide large irregularities. If we decide to sheathe the walls with drywall with our own hands without a frame, we will no longer be able to remove serious curvature.

The creation of shelves, niches and partitions is possible only with the first method of fastening. And this, in turn, opens up great scope for the implementation of all kinds of design ideas.

Related articles:

Required materials and tools

To install drywall on walls without a frame, we will need the following materials and tools:

• drywall sheets;
• gypsum mixture (dry) and a container for breeding;
• electric jigsaw;
• building level;
• paint knife;
• fishing line;
• rule (1.5-2 meters in size);
• yardstick;
• metal brush;
• paint roller (we will need it if the wall is made of porous material);
• rubber mallet;
• spatulas.

Sequence of work

Before sheathing a wall with drywall without a frame, you need to decide on the order of the work being done.

It will be as follows:

1. Measurements and calculations;
2. Wall preparation
3. cutting material;
4. Preparation and application of the adhesive mass;
5. Sheet fastening.

Measurements and calculations

The first stage of our work will be the necessary measurements and calculations. Here, with the help of a measuring tape, we measure the dimensions of the walls. Having specific numbers on hand, you can think through various options for placing sheets and determine the most suitable one.

Advice! When calculating, keep in mind that the sheets will need to be placed with an offset. This will avoid the appearance of cruciform joints.

Wall preparation

The next point in our story on how to sheathe a wall with drywall without a frame is the preparation of the wall. With a metal brush, we clean off dust, dirt and peeling from the wall. If the surface is porous, treat it with a primer using a paint roller.

Material cutting

In the case when the ceiling height is more than two and a half meters (this is the standard height of a drywall sheet), in addition to whole sheets, we still need inserts. It is better to make them in advance.

Before we figure out how to glue drywall to a wall without a frame, let's first decide on the technology for cutting this material. It looks like this.

First, we outline the line along which we are going to cut. Then, we make an incision on one side of the sheet, drawing a paint knife along the entire length of the marked line.

Then we break the sheet, bending it inward along the notch line. Then we make an incision on the other side, thereby cutting it. Thus, we cut out all the necessary inserts.

Advice! Do-it-yourself drywall finishing without a frame may include the need to make figured inserts.

In this case, you will need to use an electric jigsaw. After all, only with its help you can get a beautiful detail with smooth edges.

Preparation and application of the adhesive mass

Let's move on to the preparation of the adhesive mass. It is quite possible to use starting putty or building plaster instead of glue. But, in this case, in order to improve its quality characteristics, we add PVA or wallpaper glue to the water in which we will stir it.

Using a notched trowel, apply the finished adhesive in large drops around the entire perimeter of the back surface of the sheet.

Sheet fastening

The final stage of installation, as our instructions say, is the installation of sheets. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the degree of curvature of the wall. If the wall is almost flat, then you can glue the finishing material directly on it.

If there is curvature, then we eliminate it with the help of the so-called "beacons". These are square cuts of drywall 10 cm wide.

They are glued vertically at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. First, using a plumb line, we attach the extreme "beacons" (right and left). After that, we fasten the remaining cuts, orienting ourselves with the help of a fishing line stretched by the extreme “beacons” (see photo).

Advice! To avoid damage to the material with possible deformation of the floors, you need to leave small gaps. About 10 mm from the floor, 5 mm from the ceiling. We leave the same gap of half a centimeter between the sheets.

To do this, during fastening, we use pre-prepared wooden wedges. After waiting for the glue to dry, we close the seams with putty.

The gap near the floor is closed with a plinth. We putty the cracks near the ceiling.

If desired, they can be closed with a ceiling plinth. It will look beautiful and be inexpensive, since its price is not high.

We have reviewed in detail the entire sequence of works. And now you know how to fix drywall to a wall without a frame. But it is quite possible that something remains unclear.

Repair and decoration of any room is not complete without drywall. The material is a layer of gypsum, covered on both sides with cardboard. It is applied to the device of partitions, fine finishing of a surface of walls. With its help, they create complex multi-level suspended ceiling structures, arches of complex configuration, finish niches in the walls and make built-in cabinets with open shelves.

Drywall refers to the universal building and finishing materials that are used in all structural planes of the building. For ceiling work, thinner sheets of drywall are used, 9 mm thick, their size is 1.2 x 2.5 m. Wall sheets 12 mm thick, 1.2 x 3.0 m in size.

For work under normal conditions, drywall of a standard beige color is used, for the installation of moisture-resistant partitions, sheets of green tone are used, and the execution of structures in fire hazardous rooms will require a gray shade of the surface of the material.

Sometimes fastening drywall with a frame is not possible due to the small size of the room, for example, on a balcony, loggia, in utility rooms, during the reconstruction of plumbing units in an apartment. If the frame device “steals” such necessary centimeters, then it is allowed to attach sheets of material directly to the wall.

Features of fastening drywall without a profile

What you need to prepare for work

Tools

• Drywall knife, spare blades.
• Drywall saw or electric jigsaw.
• A strong thread to create a level plane, nails or screws to fix on the wall.
• Building level, plumb line, pencil, scraper for cleaning the edges of the sheet.
• Drill and whisk for mortar, bucket for kneading.
• Spatula, hammer, rubber mallet, pliers, Phillips screwdriver.

Work materials

• Sheets of wall drywall.
• Dry glue for drywall work. It is allowed to use starting putty with the addition of building gypsum or PVA glue in the amount of 10%.
• Water and primer for surface adhesion.
• Dowels from 80 to 120 mm in size.
• Grid for gluing seams "serpyanka" and glue.

How to fix drywall to a wall without profiles

Surface preparation

If the wall is made of brick or concrete, then the preparatory work includes cleaning the surface from deposits and mortar splashes. Next, the surface is primed with an impregnating composition. Impregnation should be diluted according to the instructions on the package, since each manufacturer makes a different composition of the soil concentration. If it is written that the soil is ready for use, then it is not required to breed it.

With the old plaster on the wall, you need to inspect it and identify weak, lagging places that can be knocked down and repaired with a solution. Then treat with soil.

Drywall should not be fixed to the walls in rooms where the walls are constantly damp, moisture is transferred from an uninsulated foundation or gets from the roof. Frameless fastening is not allowed on walls that are subject to the constant formation of condensate due to non-compliance with the thickness of the walls according to the heat engineering calculation.

Before the drywall is fixed, it is inspected using a level and a plumb line to identify the largest deviations from the vertical and in alignment. If possible, then the convex places are knocked down, and large depressions are reduced by applying a layer of mortar.

All markings with a pencil or chalk are applied to the walls after priming, otherwise the impregnation will blur the marks and everything will have to be repeated again. Sheets of drywall are also covered with soil from the side of attachment to the wall. Sliced ​​beacons from sheet waste are primed on both sides and left to dry.

If necessary, they install electrical wiring, which will be hidden by reinforced sheets from above. If the wire runs on protruding sections of the wall, then a groove is made to drown the wire.

Fastening drywall without beacons on a relatively flat surface

Dilute dry glue with water in a container using a mixer. Stirring by hand is also allowed, but it will require more effort and time. First, water is poured, and then the dry mixture is poured into it.

If there is a need to add PVA glue to the putty mixture, then it is first stirred in water, and then putty is poured. It will not be possible to add polyvinyl acetate glue to the finished mixed putty, as the solution will quickly harden and turn into a stone.

Glue is applied to the edges of the sheet along the entire perimeter in a continuous strip. In the center, cakes are made from the solution at a distance of 0.4 m in a checkerboard pattern. The total area of ​​the adhesive or putty applied to the surface must be more than 1/10 of the sheet area for reliable fastening.

The sheet is installed vertically and pressed over the entire area. It's best to do this with a helper. After that, the level of fixing is checked. If it does not meet expectations, then the material is pressed harder in certain places. To this end, sufficient solution is applied to the sheet to account for this adjustment. It is possible to remove an already rooted sheet from the wall to lay the mortar, but it is fraught with a violation of its integrity, in other words, it can break when it comes off.

Some installers support the sheet in a verified position for about 20 minutes to set the mortar, others grab it in this position with dowels, trying not to disturb the level.

Fastening drywall on a curved wall using the installation of beacons

If the wall is tilted or has a turn in the plane, then to fix the drywall, you need to make a special layer in the largest depressions. First, the curvature of the wall is measured. A sheet of material is attached to the wall and in places of depressions it is drilled through with self-tapping screws, so that they make a mark on the wall. The sheet is removed, and the screws are unscrewed.

A network is made with a strong thread that will show the desired verticality and plane. Further, in places of marks on the wall from self-tapping screws, one or more layers of rectangles from drywall waste are attached with glue. All of them must be pre-primed with impregnation. These overlays are placed so that they touch the thread frame from above.

An adhesive mixture is applied to the sheet, placing it, as in the previous version, around the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, only special attention is paid to applying the cakes to the places from drilling the self-tapping screws, which will coincide with the lining on the wall.

The sheet is lifted to a vertical position and pressed against the wall, combining all the positions. Fix for setting and move on to the next sheet. The thread frame and lining are made simultaneously on the entire wall, and not on each sheet separately.

After fixing the problem areas with dowels, the seams between the sheets are sealed with putty and sickle.

Installation of drywall without a frame on a wooden wall

To perform this type of work, the use of putty or glue is not required, sheets of material are attached to a wooden surface without gluing with simple wood screws or self-tapping screws made with hidden hats. Places from drilled heads in drywall are sealed with putty.

If there is curvature and unevenness of the wall, then it is leveled with additional wooden linings of different thicknesses. The bulges of the tree are cut with a planer or saw.

Of course, the best option is to fix drywall with a frame, but, having figured out the intricacies, they fix the material directly to the wall, trying to maintain the required level. There are many videos that show the mount without a profile. If you miscalculated, and the curvature still showed through, individual places can be corrected by applying small layers of putty through the putty mesh.

Drywall mounting options without profiles

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Drywall is probably the most popular residential sheet material. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.

Why drywall

pros

1. Why exactly GKL is used for leveling and rough wall finishing?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

• Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet measuring 2500x1200 mm has an area of ​​​​3 square meters. The sheet area of ​​3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

• Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even with the windows closed. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.

• The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean rates, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture resistant drywall with an area of ​​3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, unlike its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
• The GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper adhesive. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum board;
• From a related material - a gypsum fiber sheet, gypsum board compares favorably in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided that the broken area is securely fastened.

Minuses

1. Does the GKL have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about?

I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

• All materials based on gypsum are not friendly with water. Yes, GKLV (moisture-resistant drywall) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, but direct contact with water is also contraindicated for him;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using water-impervious materials in the finishing of the premises. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.

• GKL has a very limited strength. Accidentally hitting a drywall wall while carrying furniture, it can be broken through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made in two layers; however, mounting to a wall without a profile implies mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
• It is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet on a plasterboard partition or main wall after leveling the GKL. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material clearly loses in comparison with the main wall in terms of ease of installation of hanging furniture.

Mounting without profile

What is beneficial

1. Why do I need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

• Reducing installation costs. The average consumption of gypsum glue Perlfix, which (running a little ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:

At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

• In addition, fixing drywall to the wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take up with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; the total area of ​​the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of ​​​​the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

1. How to find out if the plasterboard can be mounted directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.

1. On which walls can drywall be mounted without crates?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

• On the main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
• On wooden partitions (frame and plank, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinkas are plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

1. How to install drywall on a wooden partition in stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.

1. What screws to use?

Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

1. How to screw screws?

Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

1. Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method??

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of wooden ones will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.

1. How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is made of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the GKL?

It can be attached:

• On the gypsum glue already mentioned by me;
• On mounting foam;

• If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction adhesive.

On glue

1. How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails?

• The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesion coatings;
• Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
• The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. It is necessary to primer twice without intermediate drying. The primer will stick the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the GKL from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a sprayer, a long-haired roller or a soft wide brush;

• After the soil has completely dried, recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with a cement-sand mortar. You can use a home-made solution of Portland cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
• The seal after drying is re-primed;
• After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

• The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

On the foam

1. How to fix drywall with foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:

• It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they can not be sealed - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
• The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet relative to the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after sticking it.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

• Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws measuring approximately 8x80 mm in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
• Apply foam on the back of the sheet - dotted with a step of 20 cm or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
• Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their hats do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when mounted on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and the expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.

For gypsum glue

1. How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile on gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:

• Glue, plaster or putty is poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are as evenly distributed as possible over the surface of the water;

• Then the future glue is aged for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture should be saturated with water;
• The mixture is mixed manually (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate nozzle will also work. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. Glue should be applied with blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.

A couple of nuances:

• When mounting adjacent sheets, special attention must be paid to the relative position of their edges. The differences will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unnecessarily increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

• On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth first sticking beacons from GKL scraps on the same gypsum glue or putty. For the same purpose, dowel-screws partially screwed into the wall can also be used; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out a few turns.

Sealing and puttying

1. How to seal seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.

The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

• It is prepared in small batches. The specific size of a single serving of putty depends on your puttying skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. The life time of the finished mixture does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

• Wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new serving. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when putty is applied to the GKL, will leave untidy furrows in it;
• To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula with a width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and densely as possible;

• The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. Putty is previously applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:

• The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - twice);
• Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to the fiberglass laid on top of the drywall scraps with a wide brush;

It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.

• The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with your bare hands, there will be a lot of the thinnest fragments of fiberglass in the skin. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
• After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and polished.

1. Do I need to putty the entire surface of drywall?

This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the prominent ones.

Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

There should be at least two weeks between plastering the drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you hurry with painting, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of dye layers.

1. How to sand?

I use for this purpose a vibrating sander with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.

Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.

Hanging furniture

1. How to fix a hinged shelf or cabinet on a wall pasted over with plasterboard?

If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.

At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:

• In the place of the intended attachment of the hanging furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back side of the plasterboard or to the wall;

• The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information will be offered to your attention by the video in this article. Good luck, comrades!

Drywall has recently become one of the most sought-after materials for repair work in apartments. Large in area, even and smooth surfaces of the sheets make it possible to eliminate the curvature of the walls in a short time, to prepare the room for subsequent finishing. In addition, if the plasterboards are attached to the frame structure, then it becomes possible to additionally insulate the ceiling.

But the creation of a frame is not possible in all cases, since such a design significantly “steals” the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Therefore, for owners of city apartments planning repairs, information on how to attach drywall to a wall without profiles is often more useful, so that space loss in already cramped conditions is minimal.

There are several methods of similar fastening drywall. But for any of them, the wall requires some preparation.

Preparatory work

Any work begins with the preparation of a set of necessary tools and the acquisition of the necessary materials.

Materials and tools

A. Of the tools you will need:

• Knife for cutting drywall.
• Construction level, plumb line, marking cord, tape measure, long ruler or rule, pencil or marker - for preliminary marking and constant monitoring of the verticality of the surface during the installation of sheets.
• Rubber and regular hammer.
• Spatula or trowel
• Container for mixing glue.
• Screwdriver, electric drill with mixer nozzle.
• Roller with long handle and soft brush.
• Bevel Planer

B. Materials for work:

• Drywall sheets. Depending on the room, ordinary - GKL, moisture-resistant GKLV can be used, and if the wall near the stove or fireplace is finished, then fire-resistant - GKLO will be required. The number of sheets is calculated by taking into account the area of ​​​​the walls of the room, subtracting from it the areas of window and door openings, and making a margin of about 15%.

The number of sheets of drywall will help you quickly and accurately calculate the calculator below.

Very many at the beginning of repair work inside the house or apartment are faced with uneven walls. The best option here would be to use drywall to finish them with the assembly of the frame base.

But there are situations when the walls are quite even. Here you can also use drywall for wall cladding. But in this situation, you can do without a frame and a metal profile. Here, by the way, the technology of fastening gypsum boards in a frameless way will come in handy. This article will be devoted to this issue.

To date, there are two main ways to install drywall on walls:

• frame assembly. To assemble it, you can use various metal profiles or wooden bars. The method is used in a situation where the walls in the room are strongly curved;
• method without frame assembly. This method involves fixing drywall sheets to the wall not on the frame, but on the adhesive. This method will be simpler and faster in execution than fastening the profile and full wall lathing.

Due to the fact that in the prevailing majority of cases there is an unevenness of the walls, the first method of mounting gypsum boards using a frame and a different profile is most often used. But fastening without a frame is much less common. Also, the frameless method is also used when it is necessary to avoid a strong reduction in space in the room.
In this article, we will take a closer look at ways to attach drywall to walls in a frameless manner.

Implementation Requirements

The method of attaching drywall to walls without a frame can only be implemented if certain factors are present. The most important condition here, influencing the choice of fastening method, is the curvature of the walls.
Of great importance for the installation of drywall is the height of the walls in the room.

Note! The technology for installing sheets of material without the help of a frame does not imply the formation of horizontal joints. Therefore, the height of the room should be the same as that of the sheets of material.

In addition, the installation of plates here is possible with ideal evenness of the walls. Only minor irregularities are allowed, which can be easily covered with plaster, thereby finally leveling the working surface of the wall.

Determination of wall curvature

It is possible to determine whether there is a curvature of the walls by eye. But it is better to use the level and calculate how much one wall collapses in relation to the next one. So you will definitely be sure that the curvature is insignificant and the installation of drywall can be carried out in a frameless way.
Note! If the curvature of the walls is large enough (more than 5 cm) - you should use the frame method for fixing drywall.
The best way to determine the curvature of the walls is to use a laser level. He will immediately give information about the upcoming scope of work.

What will be required

Glue mixture

To ensure the installation of drywall sheets without installing a profile, you need to stock up on the right set of materials. For wall cladding you need:

• special adhesive mixtures that will act as an alternative to metal profiles;
• plaster for leveling minor curvatures, as well as processing seams between sheets;
• drywall boards.

For facing from tools you will need:

• drywall knife or electric jigsaw;
• building and laser level;
• rule;
• tape measure and pencil;
• paint roller;
• spatula.

Having such a set of materials and tools needed for wall cladding, installation will be quick and very high quality.

Making calculations

The key to the success of any construction is the correct calculations. Using a tape measure and a pencil, measure the entire room by the height and length of the walls, and also determine the perimeter of the room.
By making the right calculations, you can think through the options for placing the sheets in such a way that they have to be cut as little as possible.

Note! When making calculations, it must be remembered that the sheets must be placed with an offset. This way you can avoid the appearance of cruciform joints.

Surface preparation

Since the installation of sheets will take place directly on the wall surface without a frame, it must be properly prepared. The preparation is as follows:

• We clean all the dust and dirt from the walls. To do this, you can use a metal brush;
• treated with a primer. This must be done if the surface is porous. Use a deep penetration primer only.

After that, we prepare the material itself. We will need both whole sheets and their fragments. The desired pieces can be obtained by cutting the material. It is best to cut the slabs into the required fragments before installation.
Note! Before starting cutting and installation work, the material must lie in this room for at least a day and in a horizontal position.
Drywall cutting technology contains the following steps:

• drawing on marking sheets;
• notch on one side. It is better to cut with a drywall knife;
• turn the material over to the other side and beat it lightly;
• cut the remaining layer of cardboard;
• if you need to cut curly elements, you must use an electric jigsaw.

Slicing steps

Now it remains only to prepare the adhesive for the plates according to the instructions. Drywall fastening can occur on different mixtures. But it is desirable that all materials be from the same company (for example, Knauf or Volma).

Note! Instead of an adhesive mass, you can use building gypsum or starting putty. But in the solution you will need to additionally add wallpaper glue or PVA.

Installation options

As we have already found out, frameless installation is carried out only on almost perfectly flat surfaces. Only minor distortions are allowed for the cladding. There are several ways to install this kind. Let's consider each of them more carefully.
Method number 1. Fastening in this way is simpler and is suitable if there is a slight curvature. In this case, mastic or special glue should be used as an adhesive.
The very positioning of the sheets occurs due to the dosing of the adhesive solution. With greater curvature, more mastic is applied to the corresponding place on the sheet or wall.

Applying glue to the sheet

Installation takes place as follows:

• we apply a solution to the wall at the place of curvature;
• in a checkerboard pattern, apply the mixture to the sheet;
• keep a distance between the "cakes" of 35-45 cm. One "cake" has a diameter of 10-15 cm;

Note! The total area for "cakes" should not be less than 10% of the leaf area.

• apply glue on the edges in a continuous line;
• sheet fastening takes place under slight pressure. At the same time, its lower edge should be at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor;
• we draw a board along the sheet so that the glue grabs evenly.

The final installation of one sheet takes 35-40 minutes. That is how long it takes for the adhesive to completely dry. And during this time, the position of the sheet can be adjusted.
Method number 2. More complicated, as it is used with a greater curvature of the wall.
Here you will need, as an addition, mounting foam, screws, self-tapping screws and an electric drill, as well as foam rubber.
Facing is carried out according to the following scheme:

Sheet screwing

• make markings for sheets;
• drill sheets to the wall. These marks will act as labels. Distribute them evenly;
• insert dowels into the holes;
• glue pieces of foam rubber to the sheet. The distance from the dowels to the foam rubber is 10-12 cm. Here the foam rubber will act as a control spring;
• then we fasten the sheet to the wall.

The described procedure is repeated for all sheets. During installation, check the sheets for their fixation in one plane, changing the force of screwing screws. Remember that the heads of the self-tapping screws must be sunken into the sheet by 1 mm.
As you can see, there are several ways to install drywall on walls without using a standard frame made of metal profiles. Follow the steps above and you'll have beautiful drywall walls.

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