Moving the toilet from the riser: at a minimum and long distance. Moving the toilet from the riser to the side Moving the toilet to another wall

Good day! Your problem is completely solvable. SNiP allows the transfer of the toilet, but warns that the distance from the plumbing fixture to the sewer pipe should not exceed 1.5 m.There are two reasons for this:

A large distance provokes an excessive vacuum in the pipes. How does this threaten the owner of the apartment? At least a constant unpleasant smell of sewage in the apartment and loud gurgling sounds emanating from the plumbing. The fact is that an excessive vacuum in the pipes with each flush will "suck" water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and tear off their hydraulic locks, the main function of which is to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors into the room.
The longer the sewer pipes, the higher the risk of encountering blockages. Theoretically, sewage will be able to get to the riser anyway, but the more distance they have to overcome, the higher the chance of them getting stuck in the pipe. In addition, it is important to observe the optimal slope of sewer communications. If the slope of the pipe is insufficient, the speed of movement of sewage will be low, which will inevitably lead to the appearance of a blockage. If the slope of the pipeline is too great, liquid wastewater will drain too quickly, but solid sewage will stop and accumulate.

So, in order to move the toilet a certain distance from the riser and not run into problems, you need to follow three rules:

The distance from the riser to the plumbing fixture cannot be more than 1.5 m.
The slope of a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm should be 2 cm per meter. Smaller elements with a diameter of 50 mm are stacked at a slope of 3 cm per meter.
Lack of right angles. If for some reason this is not possible, you need to lay two 45 ° elbows instead of one 90 ° piece.

In practice, the second step is troublesome. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to provide the desired slope at a short distance. Therefore, most often you have to raise the toilet above the floor level and place it on a small podium. This solution is considered optimal, because it makes it possible to provide the desired slope of the sewer pipe and at the same time hide all communications. Alternatively, you can raise the floor level, which is no less troublesome. In addition, in this case, the height of the room will decrease.

To ensure the desired slope of the sewer pipe, the toilet can be raised to a low podium

It happens that you need to move the plumbing to a greater distance than recommended in the SNiP, or for some reason it is impossible to fulfill the above requirements. Even in this case, you can find a solution to the problem, or rather, two at once. The first is to move the sewer riser. It is highly undesirable to do this, since the procedure is very troublesome and time-consuming. A simpler solution is the installation of special equipment that provides forced sewage. The device will force the system to work in such conditions when the traditional gravity drainage system will not be able to function normally.

The optimal solution is to install a fecal pump or, as it is also called, a sololift. The equipment is a pump equipped with bladed grinders. The device forcibly pumps out sewage, grinds solid waste with blades, and then pushes the resulting mass into the sewer. The device is compact and easy to install. Moreover, to install it, you will not need to perform any additional construction work.

Depending on the capacity of the equipment, it makes it possible to drain wastewater up to 100 m horizontally, and vertically by 5-7 m. In addition, if necessary, the pump allows the use of pipes of small diameter: 18-40 mm. If you plan to connect a shower or washing machine to the sewer system, you need to choose the right model of the sololift. Most of them are designed to work with cold drains, hot ones will disable the device. Therefore, it is worth choosing a device that is designed to work with high temperatures.

Sololift is a compact device that is installed behind the toilet

A small nuance: there are models of pumps with special protection, which allows the device to pump hot waste water. However, this protection is short-term, its effect does not exceed 30 minutes. Constant work with hot liquid is contraindicated for such devices in the same way as for conventional mechanisms. Therefore, it is still better to choose a heat-resistant device. Thus, the transfer of the toilet is quite possible, choose any method that suits you.

You can move the toilet a certain distance from the riser. However, this, seemingly simple, event has many nuances, on which the further use of the equipment depends. Plumbers warn that the greater the distance of the sewer riser has to be overcome by sewage, the higher the risk of blockage. Some "masters" argue that this is not so, because theoretically pollution will "get" to the target anyway. This is true, but there are much more opportunities to "gain a foothold" in place on a long journey. Another problem is the appearance of an unpleasant sewer odor in the room. It is associated with excessive vacuum, which is inevitable in too long sewer pipes. In this case, each flush will be accompanied by the suction of water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and the breakdown of their hydraulic seals. In addition to smells from the sewer, unpleasant gurgling sounds will also appear. To do without the above problems, you should follow the recommendations of the current SNIP.

The document prescribes to move the toilet bowl no more than 1.5 m from the sewer riser. In addition to the "correct" removal, you must also observe the desired slope under which the pipeline should be laid. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. For elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope cannot be less than 3 cm per meter. These recommendations should be strictly followed, otherwise problems with blockages cannot be avoided. Decreasing the recommended parameters will lead to a decrease in the speed of fluid movement, which will lead to blockages. Increasing the slope, on the other hand, will cause the water to move too fast. It will not have time to capture solid dirt, which will begin to accumulate in the pipe and, over time, will completely block it. It turns out that most often the toilet has to be lifted when it is moved to another place, in order to thereby provide the necessary slope for the pipes. In this case, depending on the transfer distance, a fairly decent amount of lift can be obtained. In addition, the pipe connecting the riser and the toilet will also have to be masked somehow. Given that its diameter is large enough, it may be necessary to raise the floor or equip a small podium, especially for plumbing equipment.

Another important detail: when laying a new pipeline, right angles must be avoided. If you cannot do without them, proceed as follows: mount two corners of 45 ° instead of one at 90 °. Otherwise, the likelihood of blockages in the pipe increases dramatically. All of the above requirements are mandatory when moving the toilet. However, even they do not work if it is required to move the equipment to a greater distance than indicated in the SNIP, or if its recommendations turn out to be difficult to implement. There is a solution in this case too.

The first is the transfer of the riser itself, which is extremely troublesome. The second is the use of special equipment that is intended for forced sewage.

The bathroom of a standard apartment most often has a small area, so the owners of the premises have to “use” every centimeter of free space to the maximum.

Quite often, the result of design research is the desire to move or unfold the toilet. This is a responsible and difficult event. To conduct it, you can invite specialists, but you can do it yourself.

Let's figure out how to do all the work correctly.

"Pitfalls" of these works

Moving plumbing equipment some distance from the riser seems at first glance to be a very simple and hassle-free solution. But in reality this is not the case. The increase in the length of the sewer pipes suitable for the equipment threatens with trouble.

When flushed, an excessive vacuum will arise in them, which will provoke a breakdown of the water seal in all nearby plumbing fixtures. This process will be accompanied by extremely unpleasant sewer odors and gurgling sounds.

Often, only moving plumbing equipment some distance from the sewer pipe can solve the problem of optimizing the space in the bathroom.

Another problem is the increased likelihood of blockages. When the equipment is moved, the length of the pipe that connects the device to the sewer riser increases. Accordingly, the path of impurities is lengthened.

Theoretically, in any case, the drains will reach the sewer, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Both problems can be solved with strict adherence to the regulations of the current SNiP.

The document prohibits removing the plumbing fixture from the pipe further than 1.5 m.

Another important indicator is the slope of the pipeline. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, it should be at least 2 cm per meter. Parts with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid with a slope of at least 3 cm per meter. This requirement is imperative for accurate execution.

Decreasing the slope reduces the flow rate, which can cause blockages. A too steep slope is also undesirable. In this case, the water will pass through the pipes too quickly, leaving solid impurities.

They will gradually accumulate inside the pipes, preventing the free flow of fluid.

Very often, the owner of the bathroom realizes that in order to ensure a sufficient slope of the sewer pipe, the toilet will have to be raised, and the lifting height can turn out to be quite large. It all depends on the diameter of the pipe and the distance to which you want to remove the device.

There can be two options for solving the problem: either raise the floor in the bathroom and mask the pipeline in it, or install a kind of podium under the toilet. Both options are quite viable, but in practice the second is most often used.

As the least laborious and convenient enough solution.

To ensure the pipeline slope prescribed by SNiP, the equipment can be placed on a special podium

There is one more thing to consider when planning the transfer of equipment. The piping from the riser to the toilet should be a line without right angles. In cases where this is not possible, instead of a sharp 90 ° bend, you need to equip two 45 ° bends. This is to minimize the risk of blockages.

SNiP sets fairly strict requirements for the transfer of a plumbing fixture, and all of them must be fulfilled without fail, otherwise problems with the operation of the equipment cannot be avoided. At the same time, you need to understand that if the toilet needs to be moved more than 1.5 m, the SNiP recommendations will not "work".

In this case, it is necessary either to transfer the sewer riser itself, which is practically impossible, or to equip a forced sewage system.

The latter option can also be used with a smaller distance from the riser to the toilet, provided that there is no possibility or desire to tinker with laying the pipe with the desired slope and raising the floor level in the bathroom.

Toilet transfer technology

The equipment can be moved to a different distance, with a different angle of rotation of the device. Depending on this, a simple transfer option is distinguished and a more complex one.

Option # 1 - transfer by 10-20 centimeters

It is assumed that the equipment is transported a short distance, which does not exceed 10-20 cm. We start with dismantling the old device.

If the device has been "planted" on cement or glue and its release is also coated with cement, you will have to tinker with its dismantling. One wrong move and the toilet will crack.

If you intend to install a new device, you can not be careful with the old one, if this is not the case, turn off the water and very carefully perform the following operations:

We release from the putty from the space between the outlet of the device and the sewer socket. For manipulation, you can use a narrow chisel or a sturdy screwdriver.
Gently loosen the toilet. To do this, carefully hammer a wide chisel under the base in different places. We repeat the operation until the device starts to swing.
We raise the toilet. First, we pull the device towards ourselves and take out the outlet from the socket of the sewer pipe strictly along its axis. Plumbers warn that if the device gets stuck and does not feed, you should not pull too much. It is necessary to swing the device very carefully and then pull it again.

Equipment installed on standard fasteners and connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff is much easier to remove. To dismantle it, you will need to unscrew the screws that secure the device. Then we pull the device towards ourselves strictly in the direction of the axis of the sewer pipe and take out the outlet from it.

If the toilet bowl after dismantling should remain in working order, all operations are performed very carefully. The putty fixing the outlet of the device in the sewer bell is destroyed with extreme caution.

After all the work has been completed, you can begin preparing for the installation of the device at a new location. Examining the old flexible eyeliner. If its length is not enough or it leaks, we change it to a suitable model. If the part is in good condition, we leave everything as it is.

The toilet bowl, connected to the socket with a corrugation, is much easier to dismantle. You only need to remove the fasteners from the device and remove the flexible corrugation

To connect the outlet of the toilet bowl to the sewer socket, you will need a corrugation. Despite the fact that rubber seals are installed at both ends of it, silicone sealant should be used as a safety net. In addition, you need to prepare special fasteners. It is very important that the steel fasteners do not press against the sanitary ware, therefore the presence of plastic washers on the fasteners is mandatory. Then we install the device:

We outline the places for fastenings on the floor. We drill holes. If you have to work with tiles, first we go through the tiles with a special drill of a slightly larger diameter.
We clean the sewer socket and the toilet bowl outlet and wipe them dry.
We apply silicone sealant to the corrugation. We put it on for the production of equipment.
We install the device in place, insert the fasteners into the prepared holes and tighten them carefully. After the device stops wobbling, we immediately stop tightening the fasteners.
The gaps remaining between the floor and the base are covered with a solution. Thus, we create additional support that will not allow lateral force to destroy the base.
We coat the second part of the corrugation with sealant and insert it into the socket.

It must be remembered that the toilet is quite fragile sanitary ware, so you need to act very carefully.

Corrugation is a flexible connecting element that greatly facilitates the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Its main drawback is fragility.

Option # 2 - long distance transport

If you have to transfer the device to a distance that exceeds the length of the corrugation, you will need to rework the sewage system. The procedure for dismantling and subsequent installation of the device is no different from the above described option. The difference lies in the build-up of the sewage system.

For this procedure, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is most often used. The number, length and configuration of the connecting elements depend on the new location of the toilet.

The plastic pipeline is laid along the floor or fixed to the wall with special clamps.

There are several nuances that you should pay special attention to. To lower the sewer to floor level, you will have to remove the drain to the toilet from the cross or tee. For plastic elements, this is not difficult.

If the parts are made of cast iron, it is best to first warm up the socket with a gas torch or blowtorch. This is done so that the sealant burns out and the cement putty cracks. The gray-filled connections are also blow torch baked. This produces a very strong unpleasant odor.

It is imperative to use a gas mask and ventilate the room well.

After that, removing the pipe from the socket is not difficult. It is best to start the installation of a new pipeline from the riser. At the same time, do not forget about the required slope, which is about 1-2 cm for each running meter. To install a plastic pipe in a cast-iron socket, it is optimal to use a special sealing collar. It is best to install it after having coated the joint with silicone sealant.

Installing the toilet with special fasteners must be done very carefully. It is important to remember that the steel screws must not touch the sanitary ware. When installing them, be sure to use gaskets.

The toilet can be connected using a corrugation, this is considered the simplest, but at the same time, short-lived option. Applies only if unimpeded access to the connector can be ensured.

A special adapter pipe can be used, which is somewhat more difficult to install than a corrugation, but it gives a more reliable and durable connection. There may also be a connection using a linen winding.

This is an outdated but completely reliable option.

Is it worth doing this work yourself?

Moving a plumbing fixture from a riser is a rather complicated undertaking.

The slightest mistakes in calculations or installation can lead to very unpleasant and difficult to solve problems in the form of chronic blockages and unpleasant odor in the bathroom.

Anyone who has no real experience in installing plumbing equipment can be advised to seek help from specialists. Professionals will assess the existing conditions, help you choose the necessary equipment and correctly install it. The toilet will be placed exactly where the owner wants, and will function flawlessly.

Source: https://aqua-rmnt.com/santehnika/unitaz-rakovina/perenos-unitaza.html

How to move a toilet: do-it-yourself video instructions for installation, can it be moved, price, photo

Is it possible to move the toilet from a familiar place to a more convenient one? How to do it? What materials will be needed for the operation and what nuances should be taken into account?

Let's try to figure it out.

In the process of overhaul, we have complete freedom of action. The toilet can be placed anywhere in the apartment. There would be a desire.

Why is this needed?

There can be quite a few reasons for the transfer:

Changing the layout of the toilet... If the wall has been moved, the old location of the toilet may turn out to be inconvenient - too close to the wall or, conversely, not optimal in terms of space use.
Replacing the toilet with another one with different dimensions... If the old toilet was perfectly located across the combined bathroom, and the new one can only be located along - obviously, you will have to redo the sewage system for it.
Purchase of new furniture for the bathroom, washing machine, bath and so on.

Regardless of the motivation, the conclusions are the same in all cases: the old toilet should be removed, if possible, intact and, having redone the sewage system (and, sometimes, the water supply system), re-assembled at a different point in the room.

Advice: in general, you rarely need to pull a hard line of cold water to the point of the new dislocation of the toilet bowl.
If the toilet is carried within the same room, it is often easier to buy a long flexible hose.

But it is undesirable to do this. After the completion of the repair, communications should be available.

Simple case

The toilet is deployed or moved a small distance, about a dozen or two centimeters.

Dismantling

Dismantling the toilet is highly dependent on the installation method.

If the toilet was mounted on standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a standard rubber cuff, everything is simple:

Unscrew the screws holding the toilet bowl to the floor;
Pull the toilet bowl towards you strictly along the axis of the socket of the sewer pipe, pull the toilet bowl outlet out of it.

In this case, it is not even necessary to shut off the water to the tank.

If the toilet is set on glue or cement, and its outlet is covered with the same cement in a cast-iron pipe, you will have to tinker:

Armed with a sturdy screwdriver or a narrow chisel, carefully remove the putty from the space between the drain and the toilet outlet. Be very careful: an unsuccessful movement - and you will have to go for a new toilet.

We have to carefully remove this putty without splitting the issue.

When the release is released, we will need to loosen the toilet on the floor. A wide chisel is carefully, with little effort, driven in turn from different sides under the base of the toilet. Sooner or later, he will swing, announcing that the deed is done.
Then, again, we push the toilet bowl over ourselves, pulling its outlet out of the sewer pipe strictly along its axis. If it gets stuck, do not pull harder, but slightly shake the toilet from side to side. Of course, before that, it is better to shut off the water to the tank and drain the water.

Installing in a new location

Since the distance to the sewerage and water supply system will be small, we do not need to rework the sewerage system or build up a water supply pipe.

If the old flexible eyeliner is in good condition, we will not touch it. If it leaks or has insufficient length, we simply change it to an analogue. The operation is simple and, I think, does not require a separate description.

We will connect the toilet with the sewerage with a corrugation. This corrugated pipe generally has rubber seals on both sides; but it's a good idea to stock up on silicone sewer pipe sealant.

You will also need a toilet seat kit.

Important: the fasteners must be equipped with plastic washers.
The steel screws must not press directly onto the faience.

This is what the entire set will look like.

Clean debris from the toilet outlet and drain and wipe dry.
Mark new holes in the floor for the toilet mountings and drill them. If there is a tile on top, first go through it with a drill on a tile of a slightly larger diameter.
Place the corrugation on the toilet outlet after applying the sealant.
Pull the toilet to the floor. He needs to stop wobbling, no more. Cover the cracks between the base and the tile with cement mortar - this will prevent lateral force from splitting the base of the toilet, creating additional support for it.
Insert the corrugation into the socket - again on the sealant.
Use it.

As you can see, the result is quite satisfactory. Only the seat is askew

Difficult case

We have already agreed that it is easier to connect water within a small room with a long flexible hose. Moving the toilet bowl to a distance exceeding the length of the corrugation will be accompanied by alteration of the sewage system.

Dismantling and installation will be the same; in order to build up the sewerage, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used. The length and selection of corners depend only on the new position of the toilet.

The assembly of the plastic drain is extremely simple. It is attached to the wall with clamps or laid directly on the floor.

As always, there are a few subtleties.

You may need to remove the toilet drain from the tee or crosspiece to lower the drain to floor level. With plastic, this will not cause problems; in the case of cast iron, it is better to preheat the next socket with a blowtorch or gas torch. At the same time, the cable seal will burn out and the cement putty will crack. Further extraction of the pipe from the socket is not difficult. It is better to install the sewer directly from the riser. The tee was wrapped in a bag to get rid of odors.

To insert a plastic pipe into a cast-iron socket - use a collar - a seal. It is better to sit it on a silicone sealant, first of all, having well lubricated its joint with a cast-iron pipe.
A slope towards the riser is required, but small: 1-2 cm per linear meter of the pipe.
If the joints of cast-iron pipes are filled with sulfur, they are also annealed with a blowtorch, but the smell will be monstrous. Ventilation of the room and a gas mask are required.
Instead of precisely fitting the plastic drain to the toilet outlet, you can also use a corrugation. There is only one condition: it must be available for replacement. If this is not possible, it is better to do without it.

This option will not create problems with modern materials either.

Conclusion

It seems that the article answered the question of whether the toilet can be moved. Can; moreover, there are no particular difficulties in this.

Good luck in the repair!

Source: https://kanalizaciyadoma.ru/unitazy/kak-perenesti-unitaz-343

Toilet flush against the wall

Any professional plumber knows: connecting the toilet to the sewer using a corrugation is done only in exceptional cases when it is impossible to do otherwise. The standard connection is made with a fan pipe.

This connection allows you to bring the toilet as close to the wall as possible. It is often impossible to install the toilet close to the wall using corrugations.

In addition to a tight installation, the drain pipe is easy to replace, fits both oblique toilet bowls and straight ones.

Types of toilet pipes

The phrase "waste pipe" has a wide meaning, today we will consider exclusively the waste pipe for the toilet. This is an extension of a 110 mm sewer pipe with a collar for connecting the toilet outlet. In fact, a standard corrugation is one of the varieties of a fan pipe.

There are many variations of funnel pipes, but I would like to highlight the usual, straight - in nine out of ten cases it is suitable for use. As standard, the straight waste pipe measures ∅110 mm × 250 mm (long) - it suits most toilet connections.

How to install the toilet close to the wall

The pipe can be shortened to the required length, the main thing is that it should be inserted into the main drain of at least 50 mm.

When the height of the sewer outlet does not coincide with the height of the toilet bowl outlet or for some reason does not fit with the oblique outlet, an eccentric-type fan pipe will come to the rescue. The eccentric allows you to connect the toilet when the axes of the sewer pipe and outlet do not match. Similar situations arise when replacing the toilet with another model or ill-considered routing of sewer pipes in the bathroom.

This means the location of the tank as close to the wall as possible. By the way, there is no need to make the tank touch the back wall. More practical for cleaning and maintenance is a small gap of 5-10 cm between the tank and the wall.

To implement this solution when laying the sewage system, the drain pipe should be placed as close to the wall as possible, if possible. This applies to both vertical risers and horizontal elbows ∅110 mm.

If the pipes are planned to be sewn up with a plasterboard box and tiled with tiles, the thickness of the gypsum board and the tile with glue should be taken into account. During the installation of the sewage system, it is necessary to use the future toilet for fitting on site. During fitting, the fan pipe can be cut to the calculated length, but it is better to make a few centimeters of the margin so as not to make a mistake. It is better to shorten the pipe several times than to cut too much and buy a new one.

When trying on the toilet and putting the sewer in the right position, you should not forget about the general slope of the sewer pipes towards the drainage of water by 2-4%.

I especially highlighted the stock of the length of the funnel pipe also due to the fact that when the communications are installed, as a rule, there are no tiles on the floor yet. Therefore, the floor tiles and the thickness of the adhesive must also be considered.

If the communications are planned to be sewn up with a box, the height of the box with tiles should also be taken into account so that the toilet does not cling to it with a part above the outlet where the tank is attached. When the pipes are exposed, the toilet is removed, all boxes are assembled according to the idea.

That's actually all that I wanted to tell you about connecting a toilet with a fan pipe. And finally, a few photos with a corner installation.

In the following publications, we will definitely consider the installation of the installation.

Return to the section "Apartment renovation"

Repair in the bathroom: how to transfer the toilet to another

In standard apartments, the bathroom is small. Homeowners resort to various tricks to ensure that every inch of space is used to its fullest. Therefore, it is not surprising that as a result of design research, it becomes necessary to move the toilet from the riser.

The event is not easy. The easiest way is to contact a plumbing specialist who probably knows how to move the toilet to another place. But for this you will have to adjust to their work schedule, change your plans. And perhaps even refuse important events. Despite the complexity of the case, you can get by on your own. The main thing is to understand the essence of the issue and correctly perform all the necessary work.

Moving the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing easier than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it.

But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes the lengthening of the sewer pipes that fit it.

Which, in turn, causes excessive discharge during flushing and the breakdown of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. And this process is always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, transferring the toilet from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the conveying pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of the sewage.

Theoretically, with the correct installation of pipes and regardless of their length, the drains will in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the percentage of the likelihood of blockages.

According to the SNiP regulations, the plumbing fixture should be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

An important indicator when moving the toilet to another place is the observance of the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of wastewater transport decreases and blockages may appear.

Sometimes, in order to comply with the pipe slope rule, it is required to install a plumbing fixture on a pedestal or mount a wall-hung toilet bowl. Both options have a place to be, but the second also requires mounting the box on the wall for installation and hiding water and waste pipes. Therefore, the easiest way is to use the first option - installing the equipment on a pedestal.

And one more important point. If you want to minimize the likelihood of blockages, then the transporting sewer channel from the toilet bowl to the riser should be laid in a straight line and not have any turns at right angles. In case of impossibility of such a laying of the pipeline, in places of sharp bends in 900, two angled pipes for 450 are installed.

How to move the toilet: difficult and simple ways

Optimizing bathroom space requires moving equipment. Within the framework of the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to different distances (within one and a half meters) and rotated. Depending on the range of transfer, there is a distinction between a simple and a complex method.

The easy way

It involves moving the toilet bowl to the side a small distance - 15 - 20 cm. For this, you must carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is planted on glue or mortar, and the discharge neck is smeared with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks in the toilet. Therefore, shutting off the water, carefully and carefully:

we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the putty layer using a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
with a little effort we try to loosen the toilet. For which the help of a wide chisel may be required - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We shake it until the equipment starts swinging freely;
Raising the toilet, grasping the rim of the bowl of the device with our hands, we first direct the efforts on ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, it is not necessary to exert great effort, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instructions, and swing the device again.

If your device is installed on the standard fasteners and connected to the pipe by means of a rubber cuff, you are very lucky. Since to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fasteners to the floor and remove the outlet by pushing the device towards you and turning it along the pipe axis.

After dismantling the device, you can start preparing for its installation in a new location. We inspect the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, replace it with a new corrugation.

The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of rubber sealing rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the likelihood of leaks, you should still use a silicone sealant.

You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we start installing the device:

mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with victorious spraying, if the tile is used, we take a special drill with a larger diameter than the fasteners;
we clean the outlet of the toilet bowl and the bell from dirt, old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation on the O-ring, and pull it over the flare of the toilet bowl;
install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
to create additional support, the gaps formed between the floor and the base are coated with cement;
at the end of the installation, grease the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 or more centimeters

The differences lie in the need to build up the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture.

The laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

To lay the sewage system at floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or crosspiece. With plastic pipes, everything is simple (everything can be easily removed and cleaned). If the parts are cast iron, then you will have to resort to using a gas burner or blowtorch to destroy the seal and cement putty by heating. Then you can easily remove the pipe from the socket.

It is recommended to start laying a new pipeline from the riser, observing the rules of the slope. The installation of plastic pipes in a cast-iron socket involves the use of a special sealing collar. For a better seal, grease the joint with silicone glue.

The easiest way to connect to a new pipeline is with a corrugation, providing free access to it for integrity control. Instead of a corrugation, you can install a special transition pipe, which will provide a more durable connection.

How to install the toilet closer to the wall

When carrying out repairs in small or combined bathrooms, when literally every centimeter of free space counts, the problem often arises of bringing the toilet bowl as close to the wall as possible.

A tee or outlet is very rarely located or oriented well in relation to the outlet of the toilet, which in turn can be straight or oblique.

For such tasks, the corrugation cannot be used for connection and the entire connection is made at the bends (corners), which are in a wide variety of tilt angles.

In addition to the selection of angles to maximize the approximation of the toilet to the wall, they will also need to be adjusted and trimmed. Reducing the height is done by cutting the socket of the tee and the elbow in half.

For the next approach step, the elbow of the bend is also cut off.

Accordingly, after this, the release of the toilet will be a little long and should also be cut off.

After all such barbaric circumcisions, it is necessary to carefully and tightly connect the cut tee and the branch.

In such cases, a black CB insulating tape is ideal as a sealing seal, the rubberized adhesive base of which, in combination with silicone sealant, will create a reliable connection. Such a connection is no worse than on standard socket rubber bands.

Wrapped in several turns of electrical tape (the quantity is selected experimentally) will perfectly seal such a connection, while the silicone will help to make the connection in tension and hermetically fill all possible voids.

This technology of bringing the toilet bowl closer to the wall can be used on toilets and with direct outlets, when it is also necessary to adjust the height of the outlet and move the toilet bowl a couple of cm to the wall.

How to properly install the toilet

If the sewer riser is far from the wall, then you can move the pipe leading to the toilet with the help of bends by 30 ° or 15 °. And for maximum shear, you may have to gouge the wall for the pipe a little.

All this makes sense only in small bathrooms, when you literally have to gain every centimeter of free space and shift the installation site of the toilet by 5-10 cm. body movements.

With all such undercuts of the bends, the base of the toilet bowl also approaches the drain pipe, and on some types of toilets, a situation is possible when this base, due to its elongated rear part, will go under the pipe, making it difficult to make a full-value box. In this case, at the stage of making the box, it will be necessary to simply leave an open niche, into which this oversized part of the base of the toilet bowl will enter.

Good day! Conceived a bathroom renovation. We want to combine it with a toilet. For the convenience of redevelopment, you need to move the toilet. I doubt it is possible ... Is it real? And how to make sure that you do not run into problems in the further operation of the equipment?

Hello! You can move the toilet a certain distance from the riser. However, this, seemingly simple, event has many nuances, on which the further use of the equipment depends. Plumbers warn that the greater the distance of the sewer riser has to be overcome by sewage, the higher the risk of blockage. Some "masters" argue that this is not so, because theoretically pollution will "get" to the target anyway. This is true, but there are much more opportunities to "gain a foothold" in place on a long journey.

Another problem is the appearance of an unpleasant sewer odor in the room. It is associated with excessive vacuum, which is inevitable in too long sewer pipes. In this case, each flush will be accompanied by the suction of water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and the breakdown of their hydraulic seals. In addition to smells from the sewer, unpleasant gurgling sounds will also appear. To do without the above problems, you should follow the recommendations of the current SNIP.

In some cases, when moving the toilet from the riser, it is required to raise the equipment to a small podium in order to provide the necessary slope for the sewer pipes

It turns out that most often the toilet has to be lifted when it is moved to another place, in order to thereby provide the necessary slope for the pipes. In this case, depending on the transfer distance, a fairly decent amount of lift can be obtained. In addition, the pipe connecting the riser and the toilet will also have to be masked somehow. Given that its diameter is large enough, it may be necessary to raise the floor or equip a small podium, especially for plumbing equipment.

The first is the transfer of the riser itself, which is extremely troublesome. The second is the use of special equipment that is intended for forced sewage. It makes the system work in conditions where ordinary gravity sewage cannot cope with its functions. For the arrangement of such a structure, a sololift or fecal pump is usually used. This is a compact device that can be placed behind the toilet cistern or even inside it. The device, which is a powerful pump equipped with grinder blades, pumps out sewage, grinds solid waste, and pushes the resulting mass into the sewer.

Choosing a sewer installation, video

One of the main advantages of the equipment is the ability to use small-diameter sewer pipes: from 18 to 40 mm, which are very easy to hide even behind a plasterboard wall. The pump power is high enough. With its help, you can easily remove sewage at a distance of about 5-7 m vertically and about 100 m horizontally. No additional construction work is required to install the device. When choosing a sololift for forced sewage drainage, you need to take into account that if you plan to connect a washing machine or a shower cabin to it, you need to choose models with relatively high temperature limits for drains. Otherwise, the device will fail very quickly.

Versions are available with short-term protection, which allows the pump to pump hot wastewater. However, it is only designed for half an hour operation. Constant work with heated liquid is also contraindicated for such devices. In the technical part, the recommendations for moving the toilet bowl from the riser are not much different from the standard instructions for connecting the device. The only difference is the installation of a longer, sloped pipeline. Installation of the grinder pump is carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the instructions.

A typical apartment is a traditionally cramped bathroom, narrow corridors and an uncomfortable kitchen. The bathroom is often so small that it is not possible to install a set, washing machine or bidet. Combining a toilet room with a bathroom gives a few extra centimeters that allow you to fit the listed equipment.

There are three paths the owner of an uncomfortable apartment can take:

combining a toilet with a bath;
transfer of a bathroom;
expansion of the bathroom at the expense of living quarters;
expansion at the expense of the kitchen;
an increase in the bathroom due to the corridor, storage room, utility room.

Moving a bathroom or a bathroom is available only to the owners of their own houses, moving a bathroom in an apartment to any other place is prohibited. The same applies to the expansion of the bathroom at the expense of the living quarters or at the expense of the kitchen (transferring the bathroom to the kitchen), the prohibiting documents in this case are SaNPiN 2.1.2.2645-10 and SNiP 31-01-2003.

However, there are still exceptions to this rule - you can expand the bathroom at the expense of the kitchen or living quarters if there is a non-residential premises below you (respectively, you live on the 1st or 2nd floor) or you are going to redevelop on the 2nd floor of a two-story apartment.

Moving the bathroom to the corridor, or rather the expansion of the bathroom due to the corridor, pantry, utility room, is perhaps the most acceptable option, but it should be remembered that it is forbidden to arrange an exit from the toilet to a room or kitchen.

Well, the most popular option is to combine a bathroom and a bathroom, it is he who is most often used in high-rise apartments.

Combining a bathroom

To agree on the combination of a bathroom in a panel house, brick building or Khrushchev, it is necessary to prepare a project for future redevelopment. Surely, in the process, you will also have to transfer plumbing fixtures or add new ones.

Redevelopment approval stages:

obtaining a technical passport at the BTI;
obtaining a single housing document at the IERC;
execution on the floor plan of a sketch of the future redevelopment and waterproofing, or an order in the design organization of the redevelopment project; *
provision of the required package of documents to the Housing Inspection of the city of Moscow. The decision is taken 1.5-2 months.

* if the partition between the toilet and the bathroom is not load-bearing, and if you want to change the arrangement of appliances, the redevelopment can be done according to a sketch or according to a standard project. If the work involves load-bearing walls, you want to add plumbing fixtures (for example, a bidet) - you need to order an individual project. If, as a result of the demolition of the partition, the waterproofing of the floor changes, it is necessary to prepare a special floor project.

Since we started talking about projects, it should be noted that the transfer of a bathroom in an apartment, or rather its expansion by a corridor or storage room, also requires a project, even if it does not affect the load-bearing walls (since there is interference in the construction of the floors).

Expansion of the kitchen at the expense of a bathroom

Consider the option when you need to obtain permission to expand the kitchen at the expense of a bathroom or a toilet.

Clause 2.6 of Section 2 of SNiP 2.08.01-89 * states: "It is not allowed to place a restroom and a bathroom (or shower) directly above living rooms and kitchens." In this case, we, on the contrary, want to place part of the kitchen under someone else's bathroom. There is no direct prohibition on such redevelopment in the law. Earlier, the Moscow Housing Inspection gave permission for the transfer, since the owner of the apartment worsened living conditions only for himself. In this case, along with the rest of the documents, the Moscow Housing Inspectorate had to provide a notarial consent on the deterioration of housing conditions.

Today, the Moscow Housing Inspectorate does not give permission for redevelopment, arguing its position as follows: according to Government Decree No. 73, paragraph 3.1 "Reorganization of premises is not allowed, in which" the operating conditions of the home and residence of citizens are deteriorating. "

Ideal - if your apartment is on the top floor, you do not worsen living conditions for yourself or your neighbors. Permission for such redevelopment is more likely.

If you start relocating a bathroom, combining a bathroom or other redevelopment, contact our company for legal services.

How to move the toilet to a different place

We will not only give you advice on how best to carry out redevelopment and advise on all issues related to the approval, but also prepare a sketch, project, obtain all the necessary permits and carry out the approval. Your property is in good hands when MVK-Service is engaged in the work.

You can get a free consultation right now by calling the phones indicated in the contacts. Our specialist will answer any of your questions regarding the approval of redevelopment.

Conference> Chatter> Miscellaneous> I want to move the toilet to the closet

View Full Version: I want to move the toilet to the closet

Tell me who came across. I have a combined bathroom, through the partition a pantry, where I want to move the toilet. I called the administration of my area, in Bti. The administration immediately said that they would not approve, do not even try, the BTI said the price of the issue is 25 thousand. Typically prepare docks, waterproofing project, etc. etc. Who faced and received permission for such a redevelopment, share your experience.

24-03-2015, 10:20

why should you legitimize that?

24-03-2015, 10:22

And what are the difficulties, why approval, you are not doing redevelopment with the removal of walls? Continue the sewer pipe a little more and run cold water behind the partition, what is the difficulty? Any plumber will do it quickly for a fee. The hood only has to be fenced

A cat walking by itself ...

24-03-2015, 10:23

Do not forget the ventilation

The apartment is on a mortgage, and I want everything to be legal.

24-03-2015, 10:27

If there are 2 holes in the wall at the bottom for the sewer pipe and water and at the top for the hood, no one will say anything. The pantry is not a living space, do everything with a plumber and do not worry.

yes, I also read in SNIP and it says that it is forbidden to place a restroom and a bathroom above living quarters, and they push me about a dry and wet room and a bunch of certificates, documents and a project))

do not forget the hood, otherwise the gas van is provided) and this is the 3rd hole in the wall with a diameter of 100 mm

24-03-2015, 10:41

There are only 2 holes - at the bottom, a sewer pipe and a polyethylene pipe of cold water are inserted into one, an exhaust hood is on top. I have done so))

24-03-2015, 13:49

Oh, you tricky ass.

there is a handy plumber.

24-03-2015, 14:17

Correctly they push, you cannot do wet rooms over the neighboring dry ones, only no project will help you to legalize it, therefore 25 tr will be thrown into the abyss. If the neighbors find out and knock, then it will not seem enough to you: rolleyes:

24-03-2015, 14:19

And what wakes up?

24-03-2015, 14:23

Do you think this is a difficult question?

24-03-2015, 14:23

They will be dragged around the courts, fined and ordered to do as it was.

24-03-2015, 14:26

everything is legalized;)

a strange system ... it will be forbidden to do (as many say), and to legitimize what has already been done is easy ... how is that)

24-03-2015, 15:07

This is also a relevant topic, but I'm still thinking whether I need it or not.

24-03-2015, 15:36

better to make a sauna there

in the pantry? and there is enough space

everything is not easy in this life 😉

In the apartment I have combined a bathroom and a storage room under construction, I have agreed with the builders. Then he legitimized before getting those. passports. It was a long time ago, about 7 years ago, at Sorge 58 the office was then located, which allows this redevelopment. There they had a list of documents to bring. Among them is the project and the conclusion of the sanitary and epidemiological station. The project was done in the BTI, in the sanitary and epidemiological station on Shafiev they gave a certificate. With these documents + docks on the ownership of Sorge 58 issued a conclusion that "their permission is not required for the indicated redevelopment" 😀 And already with this paperwork, the BTI issued a new technical passport. For everything came 5-6 thousand.

24-03-2015, 16:29

In fact, there is a lot of haemorrhage, this is a transfer from a dry to a wet zone, or vice versa.

area 1.2 sqm ... I went down to the neighbors below, they did as I want, moved the toilet there, it turned out awesome. They did not ask anyone, they did everything

practices

24-03-2015, 18:44

well, now you don't disturb anything by making a wet room over a wet one 😀

that's what I say, to the BTIs, that if the neighbors do not mind, then why can’t ... you can’t and that’s all)

Alien

24-03-2015, 18:57

if you have a city apartment, do whatever you want, but if you decide to sell, they will impose an encumbrance, you still have to legalize.

I found that piece of paper on which I was legalized in the BTI redevelopment. It turns out from the administration. At Sorge - this is the Rospotrebnadzor, they also issued some kind of certificate.
I advise you to contact them immediately and clarify what information they have, etc. need them to give you the same piece of paper.
It was just that they told me at that time that they needed a certificate from the firemen, I also did it, but in the end no one needed it.

Alien

24-03-2015, 19:18

Did you pay the loot?: D: D

😀 As a result, for all the certificates, the project and the technical passport in 2008 it cost me 5-6 thousand rubles.
The project itself cost 3t.r. Something too much was requested from the author (25t.r).
Such redevelopment is insignificant and does not require the permission of the administration! - this is the main joke. 😀

the point is this ... I call the BTI, go to us, go, the administration said that nothing will work out, but they gave the office tel.on Blucher 2 \ 2 (Center for Urban Design, Administration of the Urban District of Ufa) , you advise to go to Rospotrebnadzor at the Zorg)) where to start then)

Alien

24-03-2015, 21:08

here the thing is .. the bathroom you understand .. here the Rospotrebnadzor can steer .. if you move the push into the closet, will your toilet be over the neighbor's kitchen below .. well, you understand .. my advice to you, do not start this garbage. you will lose a lot of nerves , time and dough .. in my last apartment I took down half a meter of the wall, so much paperwork had to be done. just okhrenel.

downstairs, the neighbors have the same hut as mine, they have a pantry there, according to the project, where they made a toilet.

I later wrote that I took another certificate from the Federal Service for Surveillance in Healthcare of the Russian Federation after the sanitary and epidemiological station.
First, go to Blucher and find out what they need (what information). Maybe in general a minimum of information is needed, tk.

such redevelopment is insignificant (does not affect the supporting structures)!
In the end, they should give you paper like the one in the photo. With this piece of paper you will come to the bti later and they will make a new registration certificate.

thanks .. tomorrow I will start a long journey)

It took me 3 months. 🙂 But I started with bti, I made extra inquiries according to their advice. I think if you start with this design center on Blucher, it will be faster and easier. Good luck!

thank you

24-03-2015, 23:33

You can do it, but you will most likely have to legalize it through the courts.

If the neighbors from below sign a paper that is not opposed, then it is real. Nobody will sign the transfer of wet zones without their consent. I would start with the neighbors.

24-03-2015, 23:41

You will sell, you will clean the toilet, for how long or what?

Estrangella Edessa

25-03-2015, 08:01

1, I also did not understand why these dances are indicated

And go along this riser along the rest of the floors? Surely many have already done this!

and what will it give ?!

drove to Blucher, gave a memo on collecting docks
http://linkme.ufanet.ru/images/70b99...1a0795f44b.jpg

Total .. today I took the project with a contract for field supervision - 4 thousand rubles .. I immediately handed it over to the Hygiene Center and to the ERCC ... in the hygiene center they said the conclusion of a thousand-odd cost would be, but at the ERCC 2500 (for what?!?!? I do not understand)

30-03-2015, 22:15

Then the question is, is it worth bothering with legitimizing the partition on the common balcony?
There is a common balcony with a neighbor, he has a fire escape.

Nikola Vasilievich

16-04-2015, 22:00

Do not worry about the transfer of sanitary ware. Just go to the closet.

into the box in the closet ?!)

16-04-2015, 22:06

don't bother

or a greenhouse, huh?: D

Vetrogan Buraganovich

17-04-2015, 16:34

what's the point?
write your stories

I will write to you))

there is a handy plumber.

I will give his phone number - he will come - he will look at the place and say what and how

I gave one and a half rubles to the SES, approved. He brought all the docks to the administration of his district, they said that everything is simple and why there are so many cases at all - projects, etc. etc., they say I would have done it, and then legalized ... my case is hemorrhoid))

everything, approval on hand ...

Repair in the bathroom: how to transfer the toilet to another

Moving the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing easier than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it.

But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes the lengthening of the sewer pipes that fit it. Which, in turn, causes excessive discharge during flushing and the breakdown of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. And this process is always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, transferring the toilet from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the conveying pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of the sewage. Theoretically, with the correct installation of pipes and regardless of their length, the drains will in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the percentage of the likelihood of blockages. According to the SNiP regulations, the plumbing fixture should be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

Moving the toilet - will there be flushing problems?

In case of impossibility of such a laying of the pipeline, in places of sharp bends at 90 0, two corner pipes at 45 0 are installed.

How to move the toilet: difficult and simple ways

The easy way

we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the putty layer using a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
with a little effort we try to loosen the toilet. For which the help of a wide chisel may be required - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We shake it until the equipment starts swinging freely;
raise the toilet. Grasping the rim of the device bowl with our hands, we first direct the efforts on ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, it is not necessary to exert great effort, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instructions, and swing the device again.

After dismantling the device, you can start preparing for its installation in a new location. We inspect the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, replace it with a new corrugation. The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of rubber sealing rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the likelihood of leaks, you should still use a silicone sealant. You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we start installing the device:

mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with victorious spraying, if the tile is used, we take a special drill with a larger diameter than the fasteners;
we clean the outlet of the toilet bowl and the bell from dirt, old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation on the O-ring, and pull it over the flare of the toilet bowl;
install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
to create additional support, the gaps formed between the floor and the base are coated with cement;
at the end of the installation, grease the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 or more centimeters

If, according to the design project, it is required to transfer the toilet bowl to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to rework the sewage system. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option. The differences lie in the need to build up the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture. The laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

This should be done by a person who knows how to handle a drill or puncher. And you may need to pour the screed and lay the tiles. Those. it will be necessary either to start repairs on their own, or to hire specialists.

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

But the replacement of the toilet itself begins even before the actual work on the spot, with the choice of new plumbing. It can be more expensive or cheaper, with a double drain, with a fragrance, with an audio system and other popular options.

The installation of the toilet bowl is performed on a flat base, most often it turns out to be laid ceramic tiles. Accordingly, the bottom of the purchased plumbing should be perfectly flat. There are two answers to the question of how the toilet will be connected to the riser: either through the old drain, or with a rework of the joint. You must have good reasons for complicating the repair, therefore, in the overwhelming majority of cases, an apparatus with a similar drain is initially chosen - at an angle of 45 or 90 °. The neck of the toilet bowl is connected to the riser through the glass, the installation angle is determined precisely by the spatial orientation of the glass.

If in the store you really liked the toilet bowl of the original type, but with a neck at a different angle, you must take into account the location of the sewer outlet, and the easiest way is to take a universal model, with an oblique drain. The water coming from the cistern is drained in the toilet. The opening for feeding from this container can be from different sides - replacement assumes that the branch is already installed. Accordingly, it is easiest to connect a new tank with a similar hole location, or through a long pipe.

Technical subtleties

For a bathroom of modest size, the dimensions of the toilet itself are also relevant, especially if the door opens into the room. There is such a criterion: they open the door, measure the distance from the edge of the sash to the nearest wall of the sewer with a tape measure, then another 15 cm is taken away - the maximum permissible length of the toilet is obtained.

When replacing, it is implied that first you have to dismantle the old plumbing, and then put a new one. When the toilet is embedded in the floor, you will have to break the device. If there is an old tee made of cast iron, with taps of 100 and 75 mm, it is also recommended to change it - the plastic tee is more compact and more durable. You just need to change it carefully, because there is another tee on the riser, an intermediate one - and it is very desirable not to damage it.

If you had to knock out the embedded toilet and then pour the screed, you will have to wait a week until the solution dries. To fix plumbing, special dowels are used. An important point: before connecting the drain, the joint is thoroughly cleaned of debris and salt - otherwise the corner or corrugation will not sit tightly, and the connection will leak. And one more thing: for the possibility of repairing or cleaning the toilet bowl, it is recommended to cut the tap into the pipe, before connecting the tank - then you will not have to disconnect the entire system from the water supply.

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Any reprint, full or partial, is required with the indication of the author of the article and a hyperlink to the source.

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