Beets were brought to us, back in the days Kievan Rus from Byzantium. It contains many useful substances: carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, trace elements, organic acids, amino acids, fiber. In the southwestern regions of Russia, in Belarus and Ukraine, the plant is called beetroot or beetroot. This crop is grown everywhere, and not one garden can do without it. To get a rich harvest, you need to take into account some points, and most importantly, find out with what to plant beets in one garden, and with what it is not recommended. So about all this further in the material.
Beet (beet)
Features of growing beets
The plant is unpretentious and cold-resistant, which grows well on loose, rich in organic matter, soils. Beets do not tolerate thickened seedings and shaded areas. Seeds of this culture begin to germinate at temperatures above 4 degrees, seedlings can endure short-term frosts down to -0.5-1 degrees, and adult root crops - up to -2 degrees. Optimum temperature plant growth and development - 15-25 degrees. At temperatures below 8 degrees, their growth practically stops.
Please note: If the summer is cold and damp, then already in the first year of life, flower-bearing stems appear, which drastically reduces the yield.
Compared to other plants, beets are fairly drought tolerant. Temporary lack of moisture in the upper layers of the soil transfers, thanks to a powerful, deeply penetrating, root system.
During long dry seasons, the root crop requires watering, but excess moisture and proximity ground water are unfavorable for him. So, in such conditions, beets should be planted on ridges.
Where are beets grown?
The most suitable for it are loamy soils, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, well seasoned with organic fertilizers.
Planting beets
The plant's need for trace elements is not very great and, as a rule, is satisfied by their reserves in the soil. Moreover, however, a lack of iron, magnesium, manganese - leads to chlorosis of plants, and a lack of copper - to decay.
Reference! Table beet does not tolerate repeated crops.
Burak can be sown both in spring and autumn before winter. For the second option, at the end of October-beginning of November, special cold-resistant varieties should be selected that do not shoot for a long time.
In the spring, beets are sown one to two weeks later than carrots.
With what to plant beets in the garden?
In order to start p, you should consider several factors:
- It is necessary that root systems were compatible with each other. Ideally, they should be located at different levels of the soil;
- There must be habit compatibility;
- You need to make sure that the requirements for the composition and acidity of the soil are the same.
You can plant beets with the following crops:
Attention! A good result can show - growing beets, along the edge of the beds, with other crops (friendly). The main thing is that they do not shade the root crop.
What to plant with beets?
Also noticed by gardeners that you can plant beets with various varieties cabbages (broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, as well as daikon, asparagus and beans) that are well compatible with this crop.
Spinach, grown together with beets, is able to stimulate its growth.
Attention! As a compactor of beet plantings, they showed themselves perfectly: different varieties lettuce, parsley, dill, marjoram, coriander.
Also, it works great on cucumbers, potatoes and cabbage beans.
Beets can be grown next to carrots
Is the fit too tight? Then the carrots can easily take root and not interfere with each other.
Also, it is well compatible with garden strawberries.
Neutrally interacts with tomatoes.
What can't be planted?
Due to the ability of beets to accumulate nematodes in the soil, beets are not recommended to be planted after the following crops:
As an undesirable neighbor, which can negatively affect the planting of beets, are:
- weaving beans;
- rhubarb;
- corn;
- potato;
- mustard;
- chives.
Attention! The corn will greatly shade the beets, which will make them lack light. The fruits will develop poorly, remain small.
Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years.
Video: Growing beets along the edge of the garden
Conclusion
As a result, it is worth saying that beets are a very useful root crop. It is useful both in raw and boiled form - in which it loses little useful substances.
But moreover, this culture cannot be used by people who have stomach problems. For starters, you should consult your doctor. And also, it is dangerous in diabetes, for the reason that beets can increase blood sugar.
Even on a small garden plot you can grow a varied crop of vegetables and fruits, if you correctly place all the crops. The right neighborhood of plants can both help in achieving the goal, and interfere. Let's see what can be planted next to the bell pepper.
It is warm and whimsical plant. The achievements of modern breeding make it possible to grow it in the conditions of the Urals and Siberia in open ground, but more often in these regions. Bell pepper planted in a greenhouse.
The soil for growing pepper should be loose and fertile, retain moisture well. Top dressing is carried out six times a season with organic and mineral fertilizers. Frequent watering, but without stagnant water, allows the bush to form properly.
Most often, sowing seedlings in boxes is required, since the growing season is long. Already after the onset of warm time, seedlings are planted in the garden. If frost is still possible, it is covered with a film or a special non-woven material. Even in the summer months, you can leave the shelter if the weather is below 25 degrees. In such cases, it is preferable to choose self-pollinated varieties, which will give an ovary under the film.
It is important to look for enough fresh air and the bushes did not become infected with the black leg - the most dangerous disease for this crop.
The plant, especially in the first months, is fragile, so it is desirable to have a support. For getting more shoots, the top of the bush is cut at a height of twenty-five centimeters. Harvesting is done 80-90 days after germination.
Outdoor cultivation
What is adjacent to Bulgarian pepper in open ground? With many crops with phytoncidal properties and a specific smell:
- onions;
- marigolds;
- tansy;
- coriander;
- catnip;
- spinach;
- nasturtium.
Such a neighborhood can be used in the so-called mixed beds: when several plants are planted on small area land (bed) and jointly cultivated. In this case, bell pepper is planted at a distance of a little more than 40 centimeters between the bushes, and on the same bed with it, other plants are planted between the rows.
The combination of pepper and the described plants helps protect the capricious culture from pests, since the substances secreted by marigolds or coriander repel insects, and phytoncides prevent dangerous bacteria from developing in the soil.
In this regard, it is useful to use spices:
- marjoram;
- basil;
- Dill;
- thyme;
- lovage.
They show a similar effect, without preventing the pepper from growing and bearing fruit. At the same time, a plant such as okra will protect fragile bushes from the wind and serve as a support. It is better to plant it on the edge of the garden.
According to the principle of similarity of care, good neighbors for pepper are seedlings of carrots, eggplants and zucchini. For carrots, this is considered one of the the best options in the garden. They cooperate perfectly with each other, reducing the gardener's labor costs and facilitating the work. Carrot seedlings repel many pests.
With which ornamental plants can it be planted for a good harvest? It is enough to sow nettles and chamomile in the garden. They will speed up the ripening process and allow the pepper to develop better. Dandelion has a similar effect, however, by combining these plants, it is important to weed in time, otherwise the garden will overgrow with weeds, and its owner will be left without a crop. From weeds, it is enough to grow several specimens along the edges of the beds.
Sweet can be planted next to tomatoes and cabbage - such a neighborhood, although not particularly beneficial, is quite acceptable and does not harm any of the plants. However, you should be careful that tomato diseases do not pass to the Bulgarian bush, since both cultures are nightshade.
Difficulties can arise with cabbage, as it consumes a large number of moisture, and some varieties form a wide head of cabbage surrounded by large cabbage leaves. As a result, cabbage takes up a lot of space, which is disadvantageous if the cultivation is cooperative. Although compact sweet pepper bushes can fit comfortably in the space between cabbage plants.
When determining what else to plant next to peppers, it's easy to settle on green crops that can be combined with many plants. These are chard, spinach, lettuce. They can be planted next to peppers to save space. They will not take up much space in the garden, they will require good watering and shade the soil, preventing it from cracking during the dry season.
Bad Neighbors
When figuring out with whom a plant is friends, it is important to identify its “ill-wishers”, with which compatibility is negative, which will not only reduce yields, but can also lead to the death of plants. All the work of the gardener will be in vain.
Among the plants with which you can’t plant pepper next to it is fennel. It is very aggressive, and the aromatic substances emitted by it can destroy the plantings of many crops, including sweet peppers.
Beet seedlings will be the first to take a “place in the sun”, taking not only most light, but nutrients- such a neighborhood is unprofitable for both plants, but pepper will lose first.
Among the varieties of cabbage, there are species incompatible with pepper - kohlrabi and Brussels sprouts, which compete for nutrients.
It is unacceptable to plant sweet pepper next to hot. This will lead to over-pollination of plants, as a result, sweet varieties will become bitter, fruits will decrease, and seeds obtained in the future will already give new variety it is with sharp bitter fruits - a cross between sweet and hot peppers. It is better if these varieties are at a considerable distance from each other, which does not allow the combination of pollen.
It is not recommended to plant it near potato plantings. These plants suffer from similar diseases, so their compatibility can lead to the rapid spread of diseases. In addition, the bushes formed by potatoes take up a lot of space, limiting the space for pepper.
Unfavorable neighbors for bell pepper beans and peas come out. Although these crops enrich the soil with nitrogen and loosen it, planted next to pepper, they suppress it. In addition, peas are looking for support on which they could wrap themselves, and the seedlings standing nearby are well suited for this. As a result, the pepper may simply break or be "suffocated" by the legume.
Let's take a look at the greenhouse
Growing in a greenhouse requires a separate approach. Since there is little space in such rooms, and the spread of infections occurs faster, the selection of plants must be made carefully.
When deciding what to plant a crop with, gardeners proceed from two points: maximize the use of space and prevent the development of diseases.
Let's see what is worth planting next to the bell pepper. Planting pepper next to onions is also acceptable in a greenhouse; you can find a place in the neighborhood for seedlings of zucchini, carrots, white cabbage or cauliflower. The latter type is preferable because it takes up less space.
Any herbs will only improve the yield of peppers - they are compatible with many crops and are generally recommended for planting indoors. An important condition here is the ability to repel many insects and other pests, in particular aphids, whiteflies and powdery mildew.
The question of whether similar crops, such as eggplant and tomatoes, can be planted side by side is debatable. Since plants suffer from the same diseases, they can easily transmit them to each other, which in a limited space, especially with poor ventilation, threatens with a complete loss of the crop. It is necessary to use such a combination with great care and do not forget about the regular treatment of plants and soil. You can try to grow varieties that are more resistant to pests.
Nasturtium and chamomile, planted side by side, will have a beneficial effect on the main crop, increasing its yield.
Planting peppers in a greenhouse next to cucumbers is not recommended because they have different requirements for growing conditions. Cucumbers need high level humidity, and the Bulgarian culture prefers dry and warm air, when combined, infections can develop.
Fennel and dill are not greenhouse plants and should not be planted next to peppers. The action of fennel has already been described, and dill is so actively spreading that it can interfere with other plants, besides, its tall peduncles and large umbrellas prevent the pepper from receiving enough light. Dill can also become a source of carrot flies that settle in its roots and are dangerous, first of all, for carrots, and its umbrellas become a refuge for aphids - dangerous for peppers.
Planting beets and some varieties of cabbage is also dangerous next to pepper - this significantly reduces crop yields.
Peas planted next to peppers, like beans and other legumes, are also very dangerous, so it is not recommended to plant legumes in greenhouses.
Thus, when deciding what can be planted next to pepper, one must build on the compatibility of crops and their influence on each other. Sometimes the list of what peppers can be planted with may seem strange, but more often it is verified data. Some information can be obtained from your own experience and make your own list of combined plants.
Many gardeners at the beginning of their "agricultural career" strive to grow as many vegetables as possible on their 6 acres. The enthusiasm of a novice gardener does not dry out while seedlings are purchased or grown, while the earth is being dug up, and the greenery begins to take root. To be honest, we zealously monitor how our beds grow, whether they lag behind their neighbors. In case of success, we are very proud of them. But sometimes no amount of enthusiasm and diligence helps to collect a decent harvest. Something is going wrong. It seems that the weather is good, and the forces spent, unmeasured ...
And then a neighbor who looked at the heavy sighs explains: “Who is planting peas among onions!”
Indeed, vegetables and herbs do not always get along with each other. The neighborhood of some increases the harvest, and diseases, the neighborhood of others - depresses.
Take, for example, the most common vegetable - carrots. Carrots get along well next to and mixed with peas, spinach, radishes, lettuce, beets, chard. Carrots grow well with onions, leeks or perennial onions. Neutral to radish and turnip. But he does not tolerate dill, celery and parsley, he does not tolerate anise nearby.
Dill in our gardens spreads by self-sowing and often lush dill branches turn green on carrot beds by the end of June. But do not be lazy and weed the carrots from dill, immediately put it in okroshka!
Basil grows well alongside beans, peppers, fennel, cucumbers, lettuce, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, corn, and squash. It is not recommended to plant it next to marjoram and dill.
Eggplant grows well next to bush beans, peas, peppers, does not like neighborhood with cucumbers and rather conflicting opinions about their neighborhood with other nightshade. Many gardeners who have eggplants planted next to tomatoes or next to potatoes are convinced that such a neighborhood is quite successful. Other gardeners believe that eggplants are losing their harvest. But thyme is believed to have a beneficial effect on the eggplant harvest.
Beans grow well next to many crops: corn, tomatoes and cucumbers, carrots and radishes, as for potatoes, there is one feature: beans cannot be planted mixed with potatoes, but only along the edge of a potato field. In the common ridge, beans lead in terms of nutrient consumption, potatoes will receive less, first of all, potassium, tubers form small ones. But beans planted around the perimeter of potato ridges repel moles. They do not like neighborhood beans with onions (all kinds), garlic and peas. If important good harvest beans should be planted next to them oregano or rosemary.
Grapes grow well next to radishes, radishes, bush beans, carrots, and beets. Tomatoes, cabbage, corn, onions (all kinds), horseradish, soybeans are considered harmful to it. Regarding the cabbage White cabbage spoils the taste of grapes, and color, on the contrary, has a beneficial effect (according to Moser), like cucumbers - not the most optimal neighbor, but definitely not harmful. Moser in his experiments notes the beneficial effect of sorrel, yellow mustard, spinach, alfalfa, melon, and other plants on grapes. The worst effect on grapes: eggplant, potatoes, peppers, dandelion, wormwood, nettle.
Peas - a good relationship with carrots and cucumbers, zucchini and cabbage, do not like his onions, watercress, tomatoes, garlic.
Strawberries - compatible in plantings with lettuce, beans, garlic, spinach, grows well next to beets, onions, radishes, parsley. It does not tolerate the neighborhood with horseradish, the joint planting of strawberries and strawberries is highly doubtful.
Zucchini - good neighbors for him - peas, onions, lettuce, bush beans, spinach. It is undesirable to plant zucchini next to pumpkin, potatoes, radishes and radishes, tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley.
Cabbage - it is not difficult for her to find a place in the garden. Many cultures are friends with cabbage: these are bush beans, carrots, beets, beans, celery, lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes (except red cabbage), leeks, beets. Greens can be planted next to cabbage: dill, onion. Conflicting opinions about the compatibility of cabbage and strawberries, strawberries (possibly depends on the variety and method of planting), as well as parsley.
Different types of cabbage have different attitudes towards onions, a number of agronomists believe that Beijing cabbage and onions are incompatible, while onions and broccoli give good combination. We recommend based on your own observations.
Kohlrabi cabbage differs from other types of cabbage - it is planted next to peas, potatoes, radishes, asparagus, bush beans, it does not like being next to tomatoes, horseradish and garlic.
Potato - grows next to a variety of crops, it is easier to list those whom the potato does not like: these are melons, legumes (except for bush beans or beans along the perimeter of the field), cucumbers and tomatoes, as well as raspberries, sunflowers, asparagus and celery.
Strawberries can be planted next to greens (dill, parsley, lettuce), onions, radishes, beets and beans. Does not like strawberries cabbage and horseradish.
Watercress is a fairly selective crop. It is good to plant it next to carrots, tomatoes, radishes, spinach, but not next to legumes, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, and herbs - celery, fennel, dill and parsley. As for onions, the data are contradictory, the German gardener Hubmann recommends joint plantings of watercress, chives and spinach. A number of other gardeners in their notes indicate that watercress is not combined with onions, leeks or green onion.
Corn - rarely grown by gardeners, but if you really look for a place for it in the beds, then preferably next to potatoes or peas. Can be planted next to cucumbers or tomatoes, not next to grapes, celery and beets.
Onions are traditionally planted next to carrots. They protect each other from the most common pests: carrots drive away the onion fly, and onions drive away the carrot fly. Also, onions can be planted next to melons, cucumbers, beets, lettuce. Onions are contraindicated in proximity to beans (only leeks are friends with it), asparagus, and legumes.
Marjoram - can be planted next to any kind of onions, carrots, turnips, spinach. Joint plantings of marjoram with fennel and basil are undesirable.
Carrot grows best mixed with onions, next to peas, as already mentioned, it grows well in the neighborhood of many crops, but does not like the neighborhood with spicy herbs (celery, parsley, anise). Sage and rosemary protect carrots from the carrot fly.
It is good to plant cucumbers next to beans (bush and curly), peas, beans, white cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, beets, lettuce, onions, basil, dill, fennel, radish (it is not clear with radish), garlic, spinach. Do not plant cucumbers next to potatoes, zucchini, turnips, leeks, watercress, eggplant. The issue of joint planting of cucumbers and tomatoes is controversial, should be left to the discretion of the gardener and personal experience. The same goes for the combination of carrots and cucumbers (more data on incompatibilities).
Pepper can be planted next to eggplant, carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, thyme and basil. Bad neighbors for him will be beets, any beans, fennel. Interest Ask about the compatibility of pepper and kohlrabi - some sources claim that they are incompatible, others claim that kohlrabi and sweet peppers are wonderfully combined. Possibly depends on the type of pepper, for example, there is no data on hot pepper.
Radishes and radishes grow well alongside watercress, green onions, parsley, carrots, potatoes, lettuce, spinach, bush beans, peas, and tomatoes. It is undesirable to plant radishes and radishes next to horseradish, basil.
Turnip - sweet and tasty will grow next to legumes, watercress, marjoram, radish, celery, spinach. Do not plant it next to cabbage (common diseases), there is no exact data on tomatoes, but turnips are less demanding crops, tomatoes are quite demanding, so if the soil is well fertilized and nutritious, you can plant turnips next to tomatoes.
Leaf lettuce can be planted next to cabbage, onions, strawberries, dill and parsley. Dislikes neighborhood with celery and fennel.
Beets - it is favorable for her location next to bush beans, dill, potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce, onions, zucchini. Do not plant beets next to perennial onions, peppers, curly beans.
Tomatoes for better harvest planted next to basil, beans, watercress, perennial onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, cabbage can be planted nearby (except kohlrabi). But plant tomatoes away from grapes, peas, potatoes, as well as zucchini, kohlrabi, dill, and fennel. controversial issue joint planting of tomatoes and cucumbers, perhaps it depends on the method of planting and varieties.
Pumpkin is often planted together with zucchini, but this is wrong, they are pollinated, and as a result, something in between grows with low taste. Pumpkin can be planted next to beans, beans or peas. Although it is better to plant pumpkins separately somewhere on compost heap. The main thing is that there are no plantings of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, potatoes, peppers nearby - the pumpkin takes a lot of nutrients.
Lentils and beans they are quite similar in terms of requirements - in joint plantings they are friends with radishes, spinach, cucumbers, they grow well next to tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, celery, Americans often practice with cabbage (all kinds). Very conflicting data with onions: it is permissible to plant leeks next to lentils and beans, all other onions (including decorative ones) cannot. It is impossible to plant garlic, fennel, dahlia flowers next to beans and lentils. To help beans and lentils, there will be sowing in the immediate vicinity of the savory (repels aphids). Pumpkins, zucchini - they do not have a positive or negative effect if they are planted in the neighborhood.
"Winter cherry"
Berries of viburnum, mountain ash, some varieties of cherries and other plants - can be bitter in taste. But if frost catches them, the starch accumulated during the summer and autumn turns into sugars. Sucrose is broken down into glucose and fructose. As a result, with the onset of cold weather, the berry becomes sweeter. Likewise, at sub-zero temperature- glycosides are destroyed, with which a bitter-sour, tart taste is associated, the fruits become more edible, much more palatable. Harvesting can be done earlier, keeping the crop harvested on the garden plot - in freezer refrigerator.
With the onset of the first prolonged thaw, fruit and berry plants (both hanging on branches and lying on the ground) can ferment in the heat - sugar begins to turn into intoxicating alcohol. Birds and animals (hedgehogs, squirrels, moose, etc.) eat fermented berries and get drunk, become easy prey for predators, die under the wheels of cars on the roads. With subsequent warming, already fermented fruits - finally deteriorate, turn sour, become useless to anyone, neither animals nor people.
The berries left in the winter, on the branches, under some confluence of weather conditions, can turn into a unique product, comparable palatability, with expensive wine, exquisite drink. But this can happen only in a very limited time interval. Without timely collection and conservation (by cooling, freezing), the properties will change.
Personal website What to plant with what
The basic principle of placing mixed crops in the garden is the need to take into account the influence of different crops on each other. It is known that many plants actively develop near each other, however, there are crops that cannot be planted in close proximity, since their struggle for light, water and nutrients leads to a significant decrease in yield.
For instance, Basil feels great next to fennel, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, leaf and head lettuce, corn and zucchini , but next to marjoram it will grow stunted.
At dill it is better to plant bush beans, peas, fennel, kohlrabi, white cabbage, broccoli, turnips, carrots, parsnips, lettuce, sunflowers, onions, nasturtium and calendula, and the neighborhood with basil and watercress should be avoided.
For Fennel The neighborhood with basil, peas, parsley, parsnips and celery will be useful. But planting it next to bush beans, watercress, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, coriander, marjoram and tomatoes is undesirable.
Watercress will be pleased with the neighborhood with carrots, radishes, radishes and lettuce, and the neighborhood with Asian salads and beets is unlikely to please him.
Feels great next to dill, cucumbers, cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, coriander, chard, radish, radish, beets, calendula, celery, sunflowers and tomatoes Bush beans. But next to peas, onions and green onions, chives and fennel, it should not be planted.
Peas will grow well and bear fruit in the neighborhood of fennel, nasturtium, calendula, coriander, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery and sunflowers. Undesirable neighbors for him are bush beans, watercress, green and onions, chives and tomatoes.
Cucumber feels great next to many garden crops: beans, peas, basil, dill, fennel, white cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, coriander, marjoram, beets, lettuce, spinach, onions, sunflowers and calendula. But we do not recommend planting cucumbers next to tomatoes, radishes, radishes, potatoes, watercress.
tomatoes grow well in tandem with basil, beans, dill, watercress, green onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, chives, spinach, calendula and nasturtium. The neighborhood with cucumbers, kohlrabi, fennel and sunflower is unfavorable.
Kohlrabi grows well next to basil, beans, dill, cucumbers, coriander, carrots, parsley, radishes, radishes, beets, lettuce, celery, spinach, tomato, calendula, and nasturtium. The neighborhood with watercress, turnips and onions is unfavorable for her.
For white cabbage and broccoli, peas, dill, cucumbers, carrots, chard, beets, celery, spinach, tomatoes, calendula and nasturtium are good neighbors. Do not plant cabbage next to watercress and onions.
Coriander grows well next to cucumbers, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, carrots, parsnips, lettuce, and onions. The neighborhood with watercress, fennel and parsley negatively affects the state of culture.
For green onions, the neighborhood with basil, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, carrots, parsnips, parsley, calendula, celery, spinach, tomatoes and onions is favorable. Beans, peas, watercress, chard and beets are bad neighbors for green onions.
Chives, radishes, radishes, broccoli, white cabbage, kohlrabi, watercress, peas, beans are bad neighbors for onions.
Turnip grows well next to peas, dill, marjoram, chard, parsnips, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, spinach and nasturtium. The neighborhood with tomatoes, kohlrabi and white cabbage is unfavorable for her.
For carrots, the best neighbors are beans, peas, dill, watercress, onion and green onion, marjoram, chard, parsley, radish, radish, lettuce, chives, spinach, tomatoes, sage and calendula. The neighborhood with beets is unfavorable.
Radishes and radishes grow well alongside watercress, chervil, nasturtium, green onions, parsley, carrots, calendula, lettuce, spinach, and tomatoes. It is undesirable to plant radishes and radishes next to cucumbers, basil and chard.
For beets, the proximity to beans, dill, coriander, parsnips, lettuce, onions, zucchini, calendula and nasturtium is favorable.
Unfavorable neighborhood with green onions, chard, parsley, chives, spinach and corn.
Parsley grows well next to carrots, radishes, radishes, onions and calendula. It is undesirable to grow parsley next to chervil, watercress, coriander and nasturtium.
Leaf and head lettuces develop best next to beans, peas, dill, fennel, chervil, nasturtium, kohlrabi, white turnips, parsnips, radishes, radishes, calendula, chives, tomatoes, corn and onions. The neighborhood with parsley and celery is unfavorable.
Chives grow well alongside kohlrabi, carrots, parsnips, celery, spinach, tomatoes, nasturtium, and calendula. The neighborhood with beans, peas, watercress, broccoli, white cabbage, coriander and beets is undesirable.
For celery, the proximity to beans, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, green onions, parsnips, tomatoes and spinach is favorable. Celery should not be planted next to watercress, corn, leaf and head lettuce.
Spinach grows well next to beans, dill, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, marjoram, radish, radish, lettuce, tomatoes. The neighborhood with watercress, chard, beets is unfavorable.
For zucchini, the neighborhood with basil, beans, turnips, chard, radishes, radishes, beets, onions, nasturtium is favorable.
It is undesirable to plant zucchini next to cucumbers.
As a rule, in mixed crops, early-, medium- and late-ripening species and crops are combined, and harvesting is carried out sequentially, while freeing up space for the development of plants remaining in the garden. It is also possible to combine light-loving and shade-tolerant crops in compacted crops.
Along with traditional combinations horticultural crops you can try new ones. For example, plant along vegetable beds spice crops - dill, fennel, basil, essential oils which scare away cabbage butterflies and carrot flies. You can prevent the invasion of nematodes in the garden by planting calendula along the beds, and get rid of aphids with the help of planting nasturtium.
Joint cultivation of onions and carrots. These crops repel onion and carrot flies from the beds. For joint cultivation use onion sets and early varieties carrots as well winter onion And late varieties carrots.
Many horticultural crops respond to changing factors external environment premature flowering and early fruiting. The reasons for such reactions can be soil compaction, lack of moisture and nutrients, and a prolonged decrease in air temperature.
For onions and garlic, zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkins, tomatoes, potatoes and early varieties of white cabbage are ideal predecessors; planting after legumes is also acceptable.
Bow is a good remedy from spider mites, garlic and wormwood repel cruciferous fleas, and tomato - cabbage white.
Joint cultivation of beans, table beets and savory. The central row is sown with beets, beans are planted in rows on the sides, and savory is sown across the beds. Savory, well rooted in the soil, reliably protects plants from bean aphids. In addition, this spicy herb can be used as a seasoning for bean dishes.
Joint cultivation of radishes, parsley, carrots and onions. The bulbs are planted in the garden at a distance of 12-15 cm from each other. Between them, 1 radish seed is sown in the wells, then 2 rows of carrots and 2 rows of parsley are alternately sown.
After harvesting onions and radishes, the free space in the beds is completely filled with parsley and carrots, and by the end of the growing season they form normally developed roots.
Joint cultivation of tomato, carrot, spinach and onion. With early sowing, up to 8-10 kg of vegetables can be obtained from a plot of 1 m2. Sowing seeds of these crops is carried out on a bed about 1 m wide in a certain order: spinach on the edge, then onions and carrots.
Tomatoes are planted in a free place in the middle of the beds at a distance of 0.5-1 m from each other, and only after the danger of frost has passed.
Of these crops, spinach is the first to ripen. After harvesting, optimal conditions are created for the active growth of onions. After withering and lodging of onion feathers, the growth of carrots intensifies and root crops quickly form. Tomato fruits also ripen.
Joint cultivation of radish, spinach, kohlrabi, head and leaf lettuce. All crops are grown on a ridge 1 m wide. Kohlrabi is planted in 3 rows alternately with head lettuce. Spinach is sown between them in 2 rows. On the sides, 1 row of lettuce is sown, interspersed with radishes.
This arrangement of garden crops has a number of advantages: plants have a beneficial effect on the development of neighbors, in addition, insect pests (for example, cruciferous fleas) are destroyed.
Radishes and spinach give the first harvest, head lettuce ripens a little later, and kohlrabi is harvested last. If you plant crops according to the proposed scheme, then from an area of 1 m2 you can get from 5.5 to 7.5 kg of vegetables.
Joint cultivation of marjoram and carrots. Marjoram is placed on the sides of a wide bed, as well as between rows of carrots sown in the center of the bed. This neighborhood is favorable for both cultures, gives high yields marjoram greens and carrot roots.
In early June, you can sow carrots intended for winter storage. In the same period, thinning of carrots sown in May is carried out. If necessary, it is spudded and fertilized with saltpeter.
Joint cultivation of parsley, head lettuce and broccoli. The crops are sown on a bed about 1 m wide. 3 rows are led under parsley, one of them is placed in the middle, and the other two are at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the bed. In May, 2 rows of broccoli are sown between the rows of parsley. The distance in the row between the plants should be 45 cm, and between the rows - about 40-50 cm. The distance between lettuce bushes in a row should be at least 30-40 cm.
Joint cultivation of table beet, head, leaf and asparagus lettuce. Bushes of head and leaf lettuce are planted according to the scheme 30 x 30 cm, seedlings of asparagus lettuce -according to the scheme 40 x 45-60 cm. After rooting lettuce seedlings between rows, at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, 20-30-day-old beet seedlings are planted.
Lettuce can be harvested as early as 30-40 days after planting. During this time, the beets will take root well, develop, and the root crops will reach maturity. Beet roots are harvested in September - early October.
Joint cultivation of radish, watercress, peas and Brussels sprouts. Brussels sprout seedlings are planted in the middle of the beds at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other.
Between cabbage seedlings, a small amount of radish and watercress seeds are sown. On the sides of the beds, at a distance of 30 cm from the central row, 1 row of peas is made.
The first of these crops ripens peas, then radish, then Brussels sprouts and watercress. The latter remains in the shade of Brussels sprouts and develops normally.
Joint cultivation of carrots and broccoli. They make a bed 1 m wide, in the center and at a distance of 10 cm from the edges of the bed, carrot seeds of late-ripening varieties are sown. With the establishment of warm weather (around the beginning of May), carrots are planted between rows
Broccoli seedlings according to the scheme 50 x 45 cm. Broccoli is harvested during the active growth of carrot roots. Carrots are harvested at the end of September.
Joint cultivation of dill and cucumbers. Cucumber seedlings are planted on a bed about 1 m wide in 2 rows at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Dill seeds are sown between cucumbers and along the edges of the beds. When growing these crops, good plant growth and high yields are noted.
Joint cultivation of parsnips, head and leaf lettuce. Seeds of parsnip and lettuce are sown alternately on the same row. After the lettuce sprouts, it is thinned out. Parsnips are harvested after the lettuce harvest, as the roots form.
Joint cultivation of cabbage, tomatoes and celery. To grow these crops, you need enough land large area. In this case, it is better to plant broccoli, cauliflower or Savoy, for small areas of cabbage species, kohlrabi can be recommended. Since plants need additional fertilizers, manure or compost is incorporated into the soil before planting. Joint cultivation of peas, cucumbers and dill. Peas serve as good protection from the wind for seedlings of cucumbers, and dill between these crops grows much better than in a simple sowing. Growing peas, dill and cucumbers together provides good soil cover and moisture retention.
Below are other possible options mixed crops.
Head salad and fennel;
Chicory and white cabbage late-ripening varieties;
Cabbage, leek and fennel;
Leaf lettuce and wintering onions;
Spinach, cabbage, tomato, bush beans and table beets;
Chard, carrots, cabbage and radishes;
Bush beans, tomato, cucumber, white cabbage, lettuce, celery and beetroot;
Curly beans, tomato, cucumber and nasturtium;
fava beans, leaf lettuce and kohlrabi;
Onions, carrots, chicorn lettuce, head lettuce, cucumber, dill and savory;
Leek, bush beans, cauliflower and lettuce;
Tomato, celery, lettuce and white cabbage;
Carrots, leeks, peas, tomato, chicorn lettuce, chives, radishes and chard;
Beetroot, bush beans, kohlrabi, leaf lettuce, cucumber and peas;
Kale, potatoes, lettuce, celery, spinach, head lettuce, leeks, and peas;
Cucumber, beans, peas, beans, celery, corn, table beets, lettuce, white cabbage, fennel, dill, cumin and coriander;
Tomato, celery, parsley, lettuce, white cabbage and nasturtium;
Potatoes, cabbage, horseradish, peas, fava beans, cumin and nasturtium.
What vegetables grow well nearby Compatibility
For many centuries of growing vegetables, people have noticed that some vegetables grow well together, and some, on the contrary, interfere with each other's growth. Vegetables, herbs, and flowers help each other grow by improving the soil or keeping pests away from each other. Smart fit provide you with a great harvest.
The choice of neighbors in the garden.
Choosing your garden neighbors is the true art of garden planning. Each vegetable is planted in the garden not alone, but next to another companion plant. Such tactics help to minimize the harmful effects of insects and diseases.
Neighborhood rules in the garden. When choosing neighbors in the garden, pay attention to the families of vegetables. Vegetables from the cabbage family, for example, are well planted next to beets and green leafy crops. Some herbs will help deter pests from cabbage. Planted in the same garden as cabbage, mint will enhance its flavor.
Vegetables can experience not only sympathy, but also antipathy towards each other: some vegetables stun the growth and reduce the yield of each other. A simple sign below will help you choose a good neighborhood.
What vegetables grow well in the same garden?
I offer you a brief table of compatibility of vegetables. More detailed information- further in the article.
| Vegetables | Good Neighborhood | Bad Neighborhood |
| Asparagus | tomatoes | Not |
| Beans | Corn, celery, garden savory, cucumbers, radishes, strawberries | Onion and garlic |
| Beet | Cabbage, broccoli, lettuce, onion, garlic | Beans |
| cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts | Beets, chard, potatoes, celery, dill, lettuce, onion, spinach | Beans |
| Carrot | Legumes, tomatoes | Not |
| Celery | Beans, tomatoes, cabbage | Not |
| Corn | Cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkin, peas, beans, pumpkin | Tomatoes |
| cucumbers | Beans, corn, peas, cabbage | Not |
| Eggplant | Beans, pepper | Not |
| Melon | Corn, pumpkin, radish, zucchini | Not |
| Onion | Beets, carrots, chard, lettuce, peppers | Legumes |
| Peas | Beans, cucumbers, turnips, carrots, corn, radishes. | Onion garlic |
| Potato | Beans, corn, peas | tomatoes |
| vegetable marrow | Corn, melons, pumpkins | Not |
| tomatoes | Carrots, celery, cucumbers, onions, peppers | Corn, kohlrabi, potatoes |
Other Useful Neighbors for Vegetables
In addition to the neighborhood of one vegetable crop on the other hand, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in the beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.
Flowers next to vegetables.
Good advice: plant a few marigolds in the garden with tomatoes, they repel pests. Marigolds can completely decorate the entire garden around the perimeter - this will help keep pests at a distance.
Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects to them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very fond of aphids. These pests will prefer to eat nasturtium, and will not pay attention to vegetables growing nearby.
Vegetables and herbs.
Herbs planted nearby will give your vegetables a more refined taste. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good universal barrier against most insect pests.
Deciding which vegetables to plant nearby in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also by common sense. Lettuce, radishes, and other fast growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. Lettuce and radish will ripen before the pumpkin grows. shadow lovers green leafy vegetables such as spinach and chard are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well in the neighborhood of corn, as their roots occupy different levels in the soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.
Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.
Plant compatibility.
Neighbors for carrots.
What can you plant carrots next to? The optimal neighborhood for carrots will be:
- Beans;
- Sage;
- Radish;
- Salad;
- Rosemary;
- Peas;
- Tomatoes.
But the negative neighborhood for carrots:
- Dill;
- Parsley.
Optimal conditions for pepper.
- Basil;
- coriander;
- Bow;
- spinach;
- Tomatoes.
Do not plant peppers near beans.
Potato and its neighbors.
What can you plant potatoes next to? Potatoes will bring a good harvest if planted next to:
- beans;
- Broccoli;
- cabbage;
- Corn;
- eggplant;
- Garlic;
- lettuce;
- Bow;
- Peas;
- Radishes.
You can not plant potatoes if they grow nearby:
- cucumbers;
- Melons;
- Zucchini;
- sunflowers;
- Tomatoes;
- Turnip.
Tomato neighbors.
- asparagus;
- Basil;
- beans;
- cucumbers;
- carrots;
- celery;
- dill;
- lettuce;
- melons;
- Bow;
- Parsley;
- Pepper;
- radish;
- spinach;
- thyme;
Do not have tomato beds and any types of cabbage, potatoes and corn nearby.
Neighbors for asparagus.
What can you plant asparagus next to? An excellent neighborhood for asparagus will be:
- Basil;
- Beet;
- Salad;
- Parsley;
- Spinach;
- Tomatoes.
What can not be planted with asparagus?
Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.
Neighbors for beans.
What can you plant beans next to? The optimal neighborhood for beans:
- Broccoli;
- Corn;
- Cabbage;
- Carrot;
- Celery;
- Cauliflower;
- cucumbers;
- eggplant;
- Peas;
- Potato;
- Radish;
- zucchini;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Undesirable neighborhood for beans:
- Garlic;
- sunflowers;
- Pepper.
Neighbors in the garden for beets.
What can you plant beets next to? Beetroot will give more yield next to:
- Broccoli;
- asparagus;
- cauliflower;
- lettuce;
- Bow.
Unwanted beet garden neighbors:
- Mustard;
- Beans.
Broccoli and neighbors in the garden.
What to plant broccoli next to? Optimal neighborhood for broccoli:
- Beans;
- Beet;
- Celery;
- cucumbers;
- Potato;
- Sage.
Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:
- Cabbage;
- Cauliflower;
- Salad;
- String beans;
- Tomatoes.
Neighbors in the garden for Brussels sprouts.
What is the best planting for Brussels sprouts? Best neighbors:
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Radish;
- Sage;
- Spinach;
- Turnip.
Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor - tomatoes.
Neighbors for cabbage.
What can you plant cabbage next to?
- Beans;
- Celery;
- cucumbers;
- Dill;
- Salad;
- Potato;
- Sage;
- Spinach;
- Thyme.
Unwanted neighbors in the cabbage garden:
- Broccoli;
- Cauliflower;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Cauliflower and its neighbors.
- Beans;
- Beet;
- Celery;
- cucumbers;
- Sage;
- Thyme.
Bad neighbors for cauliflower:
- Broccoli;
- Cabbage;
- Strawberry;
- Tomatoes.
Companions of celery.
Celery has no unwanted neighbors. But to grow it better near from:
- beans;
- Broccoli;
- cabbage;
- cauliflower;
- Leek;
- spinach;
- Tomatoes.
What beds to do next to the cucumbers?
- beans;
- Broccoli;
- Corn;
- cabbage;
- cauliflower;
- sunflowers;
- Peas;
- lettuce;
- Radish.
You can not plant cucumbers next to herbs, melons and potatoes.
Corn and its neighborhood.
- Beans;
- cucumbers;
- Salad;
- Melons;
- Peas;
- Potato;
- Zucchini;
- Sunflowers.
But you can’t plant corn next to tomato beds!
Suggestions for eggplant
Eggplants do not have unwanted neighbors in the garden, but they feel great next to:
- Basil;
- beans;
- lettuce;
- Peas;
- Potatoes;
- Spinach.
Lettuce.
Optimal bed companions for lettuce:
- Asparagus;
- Beet;
- Cabbage;
- Brussels sprouts;
- Carrot;
- Corn;
- cucumbers;
- Peas;
- eggplant;
- Potato;
- Radish;
- Spinach;
- Strawberry;
- sunflowers;
- Tomatoes.
But broccoli is the worst companion for lettuce.
What to plant onions next to?
The best neighborhood for onions will be:
- Beet;
- Tomatoes;
- Broccoli;
- Spinach;
- Cabbage;
- Potato;
- Carrot;
- Salad;
- Pepper.
Worst:
- Beans;
- Peas;
- Sage.
Peas and its neighbors in the garden.
With what vegetables next to place beds with peas? Peas feel great next door to:
- beans;
- carrots;
- Corn;
- cucumbers;
- eggplant;
- lettuce;
- melons;
- Pasternak;
- Potatoes;
- radish;
- spinach;
- Turnip.
You can not plant peas near the ridges with onions and garlic.
Useful weeds in the garden.
Sometimes plants can be useful to each other only at a certain stage of growth. This is true for some weeds as well. How can weeds be useful in the garden? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper layers of the soil and bring them to the surface. When weeds die and decay, nutrients become available on the soil surface for shallow-rooted vegetables. That is why some vegetables grow very well in the neighborhood of nettles.
You can understand what to plant tomatoes next to by studying in detail the needs of plants.
The best neighbors in the garden will be other nightshades that have similar agrotechnical requirements.
But it is better to move moisture-loving cucumbers to the other end of the greenhouse, together these plants get along with difficulty.
You can understand what to plant tomatoes next to by studying in detail the needs of plants
Co-growing: pros and cons
- saving space, it is especially relevant for greenhouses;
- plantings look very beautiful, not reminiscent of boring beds, but a thoughtful still life;
- spicy herbs, onions or garlic can protect against pests;
- some plants are able to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes and give the fruits a pleasant taste;
- crops mutually enrich the soil, reducing the need for fertilizers;
- after tomatoes, it will not be necessary to sow the plantation with green manure;
- simplifies the care of the beds;
- with mixed sowing, the need to change plants every year disappears.
Despite the numerous advantages, joint landing also has disadvantages:
- when placed next to tall bushes (raspberries, currants), tomatoes may not have enough sun;
- some plants have excellent requirements for watering, fertilizing, loosening;
- there is a danger of over-pollination.
Proper compatibility of plants will help to avoid possible troubles. It is important to understand what to plant tomatoes next to, and which crops to avoid. A thoughtful selection of predecessors, followers and neighbors will help increase productivity and simplify garden care.
Is it possible to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse (video)
Greenhouse neighbors
The selection of successful neighbors is especially important when filling greenhouses or greenhouses. In a limited space, it is difficult for plants to provide diametrically opposite conditions. The best neighbors for tomatoes are other nightshades, especially peppers and eggplants. They have similar soil composition requirements. All these crops prefer light and nutritious soil. Perfect option- black soil or sandy loam. On loams, yields can be significantly reduced. When watering, keep in mind that tomatoes are less moisture-loving than peppers. Will help solve the issue automatic system, accurately dosing the water supply.
Compatibility also depends on the variety. Modern first generation hybrids are more tolerant and grow well alongside other plants.
In the aisles, you can sow greens: dill, parsley, herbs. Onions and garlic protect the bushes from pests, purple basil gives the fruits a pleasant aftertaste. A good neighbor for tomatoes is early vegetables: radish, cabbage. Heads are cut before the fruiting of tomatoes, so that the cultures do not interfere with each other. Nothing prevents planting after the first harvest the next batch of cabbage or lettuce.
From time to time, the soil in the greenhouse needs to rest and recover. The safest and inexpensive option- green manure plants. They enrich the soil with valuable trace elements, saturate it with nitrogen. After tomatoes, phacelia or alfalfa are planted; at the end of the season, these herbs become a natural fertilizer.
It is important to understand what to plant tomatoes next to, and which crops to avoid.
What to plant in an open garden
The best neighbors of tomatoes in the open field are carrots, radishes, garlic, beets, celery, radishes, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts or white cabbage, broccoli. Spicy herbs are often planted in the aisles: basil, mint, lemon balm, borage. In the south, next to tomatoes, you can sow watermelons, melons, and corn. All nightshades coexist well with these plants, the proximity to melons reduces the number of pests and prevents some unpleasant diseases.
In a small garden next to tomatoes, you can plant strawberries. Understanding what to plant after tomatoes is not difficult. Legumes, various flowers, herbs, undemanding to the nutritional value of the soil, are placed on the impoverished soil. A good option is to sow a former tomato plantation with phacelia, alfalfa, leafy mustard or soybeans. After tomatoes, potatoes can also be planted, but humus and mineral fertilizers will need to be added to the soil.
What to plant with what, so as not to interfere (video)
Predecessors and successors: selection rules
The question, after which to plant tomatoes, worries all gardeners interested in bountiful harvest. The best predecessors of tomatoes - different kinds cabbage, legumes, head or leaf lettuce. These plants enrich the soil with nitrogen and other valuable trace elements. Do not plant tomatoes on the beds that were occupied by eggplant, potatoes, peppers.
Green manure plants are necessary for extensive plantings. They must be sown in industrial greenhouses or in beds a year before placing tomato seedlings on them.
Various cruciferous plants act as precursors that feed the soil with useful elements: mustard, soybeans, alfalfa, white or red cabbage, pumpkin. Good green manure - cucumbers, beets, turnips, green onions, squash or zucchini.
Green manure plants are necessary for extensive plantings
The next year after tomatoes, it is better to plant different varieties of cabbage or take up a plantation with legumes. They are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, and typical diseases of nightshade peas and beans are not terrible. You can not plant tomatoes after strawberries, eggplants, potatoes, peppers. If the site is small, it is better to divide it into 3 parts in advance. Herbs will act as an intermediate crop between incompatible plants. In a year of sowing alfalfa or vetch, the land will be completely restored.
Questions, then plant tomatoes and what can be placed on the beds that were occupied by nightshade, excite many gardeners. There are few hard contraindications, most cultures will calmly endure the neighborhood. Do not be afraid of experiments, sometimes the most unexpected combinations bring success.