As a rule, simply run water through Vacation home or not enough for the dacha. Water will definitely need to be disposed of somewhere after use. Carrying it out in buckets is yesterday, it’s hard and pointless. Therefore, it will be necessary to build at least a basic sewer system. This can be done by draining a pipe from their home and then draining the water into small hole. But this option is not suitable for everyone, since it is unaesthetic, and the unpleasant smell from this pit or puddle will scare away anyone. But don’t despair: you can make a decent sewer system with water drainage on your own, and it’s not as difficult as it seems.
Materials for production:
The barrel is old (plastic or metal);
- Sewer pipes (preferably PVC 110 mm, length from 6 m)
- Tee;
- Retraction;
- Crushed stone of medium fraction (0.5 cubic meters);
- Shovel;
- Free time(few hours).
Sewer manufacturing process
First of all, you need to decide on the location where the drainage well will be located. It is desirable that it be located at a distance of at least 5 m from the house, no closer than 20-25 m from the well or well, and below them in terms of flow level groundwater. A hole is dug with a diameter that exceeds the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m. The diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height - 0.9 m, volume - 0.2 cubic meters, depth - from 1.5 m.
Next, you will need to make holes in the walls of the barrel. If the barrel is metal, this is done using a grinder; if it is plastic, use a wood saw with fine teeth. Not far from the bottom of the barrel, a hole is made in the wall intended for incoming sewer pipe. Having poured at least 20 cm of crushed stone into the bottom of the pit, place the barrel upside down. The hole for the pipe should be directed towards the house.
All that remains is to dig a trench for the sewer pipe and bring it to the desired location. When laying the pipe, the slope towards the barrel must be at least 3 mm per 1 m. The pipe is brought into the house under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate it; it will be warmed by the waters flowing through it. A tee is placed not far from the barrel so that a small piece of pipe extends above the surface of the earth. This is necessary so that the air circulates inside the barrel and leaves the house when the sewer is filled, that is, so that it does not go out of the barrel into the house.
The pipe is inserted into the barrel through a special hole. The gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit is completely filled with crushed stone to the height of the barrel. A material that is not subject to rotting, such as a piece of old slate, is placed at the bottom of the barrel. After this, the hole and trench are filled with soil and thoroughly compacted. To finally install sewerage into the house, a hole is made in the floor or wall. A special plastic mushroom is put on a piece of pipe that is brought to the surface of the earth near the buried barrel.
Some nuances
The design is intended exclusively for draining water, and not for fecal waste, since it is not possible to clean it. Sewage of this type - perfect option for bath or kitchen drains. Drainage wells and septic tanks are constructed similarly.
The microclimate of bacteria processing wastewater largely depends on the depth of the pit. The ideal depth is calculated using the following formula: the height of the barrel and crushed stone cushion is added to the freezing depth of the soil. For Leningrad region this value is: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m, that is, only 2.3 m. However, digging a hole of such depth is difficult, and not necessary. The barrel, like the pipe, is heated by water effluent.
When clay soil where the sewer system is installed, water will leave the barrel more slowly, so the design can be improved. An additional or drainage pipe is laid, capable of discharging water at the border of the site into the drainage ditch. It can also end in a dead end and lead nowhere. The main task of such a pipe is to divert excess water and increase the area of water absorption into the soil.
After laying it on a crushed stone cushion in a trench, the pipe is covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The trench is somewhat deeper compared to the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. To improve water flow, holes are made in the lower part of the sewer pipe. It turns out to be similar drainage pipe, but if the pipe is discharged into a drainage ditch, this will not be required.
In a word, this sewer - best option, suitable for water drains in any country house.
| Galina |
A dacha is a place of active work and recreation, often turning into a summer residence for children and the elderly. As soon as the air temperature becomes acceptable for working on the site, trips to the dacha become frequent, and sometimes end with the older generation completely moving to a quiet place. cozy place living away from the noisy city.
Comfortable living conditions at the dacha will be ensured by the organization of communication systems. First of all, ensuring uninterrupted water supply and sewage system. From our article you will learn how to make a sewer system at your dacha with your own hands, which wastewater disposal system is best to choose for your site so as not to harm the ecology of the area.
Try to dig the trench depth no more than planned. The excess depth of the trench will have to be concreted, and not covered with earth, in order to avoid deformation of the pipe after backfilling with soil on top and its complete subsidence.
To make life at the dacha comfortable, it is necessary to carry out basic communications - water supply and sewerage. On suburban areas There is often no centralized sewerage network, so each house owner solves the problem independently. Periodic use of the home does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment; it is enough to install a septic tank.
Often in dachas, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped plumbing system This option is fully justified, but when installing plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer system in your country house with your own hands. different ways(from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and we will also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.
The sewerage system must be built in accordance with the developed project, which includes external and internal piping diagrams.
Two-chamber septic tank
The most convenient option is to install a collector consisting of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.
- Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country house. You can dig a pit manually or using an excavator.
- A sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed at the bottom of the pit. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
- It is necessary to install formwork made of boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
- It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe cuttings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer main and the overflow pipe between the sections.
- The formwork is filled with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume using a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at one time.
- In the first compartment, the bottom is filled with concrete, a sealed section is formed, which will serve as a sump. Here wastewater will be separated into solid large fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
- The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer sedimentary rock(crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) for filtering wastewater.
- An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an angle of 30 mm on linear meter. The height of the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made, which provides better cleaning.
- The ceiling of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made ones are used reinforced concrete slabs. Be sure to install a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and the hood. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump tank of such a system will be cleaned every 2–3 years.
Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.
If the soil on the site is clayey or the groundwater is located very close to the surface, it will not be possible to install a septic tank of this design. You can settle on a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to a concrete slab in the pit.
Another option is a biological treatment station. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings large area. The installation and commissioning of the device is carried out by specialists; the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.
Laying the external main
It is necessary to lay a pipeline from the point where the sewer pipe exits the house to the septic tank. The main must lie at a slope that ensures the drainage of contaminated water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes must be greater than the value winter freezing soil. If the depth of the trench is small, provide thermal insulation of the line.
The average depth for laying a sewer system is 1 meter; in warm regions it is enough to go down to 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.
The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If it is necessary to make a turn, this place will be equipped with an inspection well. For the highway you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be airtight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand and then with soil.
The design, which does not require regular pumping of wastewater, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. These can be two/three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in volume. In two-chamber septic tanks, the septic tank occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber septic tanks ½. Here, preliminary wastewater treatment takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final wastewater treatment takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.
The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. In this way, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps avoid systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.
It is worth considering that in addition to organic matter, wastewater also contains insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a structure will also have to be pumped out periodically to get rid of the sediment accumulating in the sump. This can be done with a fecal/drainage pump. The frequency of septic tank maintenance depends entirely on the size/volume/composition of wastewater.
To independently construct such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The water consumption rate per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of household members, you get daily norm water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.
18 m3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m, and a width of 2 m. By multiplying all sides, you get 18 m3. Minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to drain pipe– 0.8 m.
The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually this sediment becomes denser and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be cleaned immediately. You should resort to cleaning a septic tank quite rarely. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge in 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.
Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewer equipment.
However, not so long ago, biological products with special enzymes appeared that convert sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment facility.
Bacteria need to be “fed” with oxygen to make their work more efficient. You can buy containers for a septic tank or make your own.
Before installation finished design it is necessary to determine a suitable location for the septic tank. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house must be directed directly to the septic tank. It is better to avoid turning the pipeline, because it is in such places that blockages form.
The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.
If groundwater is close to the surface, then strengthen the bottom of the pit concrete slab/screed. The dimensions of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.
The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).
The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise melt water in the spring the device's equipment will be flooded.
After constructing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done using cables placed in the ribs of the septic tank. In this matter you cannot do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to the communications, having previously dug trenches for the pipes, laid a sand cushion and installed the pipes. They should be laid at a slight slope - 1–2 cm per linear meter. The pipes are laid to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.
The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.
To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After this, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem you will need a polypropylene cord and a hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, you can insert a sewer pipe into it.
If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect electric cable. It is carried out from the panel to a separate machine. It needs to be placed in a special corrugated pipe and place in the same trench as the sewer pipe. There are special holes with marks on the septic tank. The cable is connected to them.
If the level of soil freezing in your region is high enough, then insulate the septic tank. Any type of insulation can be used thermal insulation material, which can be used for laying in the ground.
After connecting the electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be filled with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure during the process of filling the soil, you need to pour water into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the level of backfilling of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.
If you are not satisfied with the finished plastic autonomous system to clean wastewater, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. Great inexpensive material to implement the plan - concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.
Among the advantages of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:
- Affordable price.
- Unpretentiousness during operation.
- Possibility of performing work without the help of specialists.
The following disadvantages deserve attention:
- Presence unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure completely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
- The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage disposal equipment.
You can reduce the frequency of the need to pump out the septic tank if you use bioactivators. They reduce the amount of solid fractions by accelerating the process of their decomposition.
If the installation of the rings is carried out incorrectly, the septic tank will not be airtight, which will increase the risk of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be sealed, so this disadvantage of the system is rightly called conditional.
The design of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1–2 chambers designed for settling and purifying wastewater and a filtration field/filter well.
If there are few people living in your house and a minimum of plumbing fixtures are connected to the sewer system, then you can easily get by with a septic tank consisting of one septic tank and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have a lot of household members and many devices are connected to the sewer system, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.
How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building regulations, the septic tank chamber must accommodate a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that to build a septic tank for 5 people you will need a septic tank of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that to install a septic tank in this particular case you will need 5 rings.
The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate septic tank chambers and a filter well. This work, of course, can be done manually, but it takes a long time and is very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earth-moving equipment.
The bottom of the pit at the site where the settling chambers are installed must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. Before the beginning concrete works, part of the bottom of the pit should be drained to install settling tanks by laying a sand cushion on it in a layer of 30–50 cm.
If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a solid bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.
The place for the filter well also requires preparation of the base. Under it you need to make a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel at least 50 cm thick.
To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. Performing these tasks manually is very difficult. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is labor-intensive. And the bottom will have to be filled after installing the last ring, which will entail whole line inconvenience. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.
Usually the rings are fastened together with mortar, but for greater structural reliability they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not be damaged due to soil movement.
Now it’s time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to connect pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they need to be installed with a bend.
To seal the joints you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. WITH outside tanks must be treated with coating or weld-on waterproofing.
Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders that are installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water entering will be minimized.
Installation of slabs/backfill
Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, which have holes for installing sewer hatches. Ideally, backfilling of the pit should be done with soil containing a high percentage of sand. But if this is not possible, the pit can be filled with soil previously removed from it.
Now the septic tank can be put into operation.
The system for treating wastewater from barrels, like a similar structure made of reinforced concrete, can be two- or three-chamber. Sewage will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The operating principle of this device is similar to the design of reinforced concrete rings.
For arrangement autonomous sewerage According to the principle of the purification system, any containers can be used. These could be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.
If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.
Plastic containers have a number of advantages over their metal counterparts:
- A wide range of plastic containers, which can be used to install a septic tank.
- The barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of wastewater. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
- The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at a permanent location.
- Plastic does not require additional processing, unlike metal.
- The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of penetration dirty waters into the ground.
Plastic barrels must be securely fastened when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are attached with cables to concrete base(it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). To avoid crushing plastic barrels, backfilling of soil should be done extremely carefully.
For seasonal use, sewerage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.
The popularity of metal containers for sewerage installations is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. Can be used as a lid of the appropriate size wooden blank or the one provided by the manufacturer. For installation metal septic tank you need to dig a corresponding pit, which also needs to be concreted - the walls and the bottom.
Metal containers do not last long service life even after they have been treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, installing them as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.
Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not The best decision, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. And such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.
For installation reliable system It is better to use factory-made polymer barrels for wastewater treatment.
To make a septic tank from 220 liter barrels, you will need the following materials:
- geotextiles – 80 m2;
- sewer pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
- crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m3;
- corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º – 4 pcs.;
- plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l – 2 pcs.;
- coupling, flange – 2 pcs.;
- wooden peg – 10 pcs.;
- Y-shaped sewer tee- 4 things.;
- building level;
- drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m – 2 pcs.;
- epoxy two-component sealant – 1 pc.;
- glue for PVC – 1 pc.;
- plumbing tape – 1 pc.
Tools you will need:
- Shovel.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Rake.
For a cottage/small country house If used sparingly, standard plastic barrels will do. Installing such a cleaning system is not difficult. If you do not pour black waste into the sewer, the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If there is a toilet in the house, then the sewerage system will have to be cleaned regularly by calling a sewer service.
For private homes with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewerage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes/tanks/tanks. The process of installing them in the ground is no different from installing barrels.
The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too long distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewerage system to the house:
- there is a need for a large depth of the pipeline;
- On the way to the septic tank you will need to install an inspection well.
A sewage system made from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex work on installation. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed to transfer liquid from one barrel to another and transfer to the filtration fields/drainage well.
Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.
The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated using polystyrene foam. After this, the pit and septic tank are filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels do not last long, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.
Pipe laying
Scheme
A dacha is a place of active work and recreation, often turning into a summer residence for children and the elderly. As soon as the air temperature becomes acceptable for working on the site, trips to the dacha become frequent, and sometimes end with the older generation completely moving to a quiet, cozy habitat away from the noisy city.
Comfortable living conditions at the dacha will be ensured by the organization of communication systems. First of all, ensuring uninterrupted water supply and sewage system. From our article you will learn how to make a sewer system at your dacha with your own hands, which wastewater disposal system is best to choose for your site so as not to harm the ecology of the area.
PRELIMINARY STUDIES
To install an autonomous sewer system, it is necessary to first draw up a diagram of the location of all points of water intake and drainage. Location of the water supply point for the house and the entire yard clean water should be noted as accurately as possible.
Note! We remember that cesspool or other sewer device should not be installed near a natural source.
The site's sewage system consists of:
- Part of the system that integrates plumbing fixtures in a building and is located inside the structure.
- Sewage pipes carrying wastewater from the house to outer part systems.
- Storage facilities located on the site in which wastewater is treated and released into the soil or settled for further removal.
Note! Located on the site summer showers, toilets, baths, if necessary, must be included in the sewerage system of the entire site and must be indicated on the drawn up diagram.
When developing a sewerage design project for a dacha, consider a number of factors that influence the choice of system type:
- Location of the well or well with drinking water.
- Groundwater level at the site.
- Soil freezing depth.
- Type of soil and its condition.
All soil data can be found from geodetic research during compilation construction project. If you don’t have such documents, talk to your dacha neighbors and they will tell you a lot of interesting things. By asking just a few questions, you will find out what kind of sewer system is used in neighboring areas, what is good and bad about it. When developing, take into account the information received.
The type of soil on the site particularly influences the choice of wastewater treatment facilities. Light soils, which are dominated by sand, allow moisture to pass through well. Sewage passing through such soil easily reaches the groundwater level, which leads to its pollution.
Sewage pipes must be laid below the freezing level of the soil. The scheme is drawn up in such a way that the water supply pipes do not intersect with the sewer pipes.
Note! There is no point in connecting a washbasin installed outdoors to common system sewerage. Dig a small hole and fill the bottom with crushed stone or gravel. Make a drain from the washbasin into this hole. For a small amount of water, such a structure is quite enough.
The sewer system at each site is developed individually and the choice of its type can also be different, even if many factors coincide. In sewer systems, it is mainly the treatment facilities that differ.
Let's look at the construction of three options:
- A simple cesspool.
- Modern construction - septic tank.
- Local treatment station.
SIMPLE cesspool
What could be simpler than an ordinary cesspool, used for centuries? Today, you can also see this simple structure in many areas. For some, the pit has no bottom, while for others, everything is made soundly and firmly; the pit has both walls and a bottom.
Making your own cesspool design is not difficult. For the construction, brickwork, manual concreting, and reinforced concrete rings are used. The pit with the bottom is positioned so that it can be cleaned from time to time. There must be an access road for the sewer truck. The bottom is usually concreted, and the structure looks like a large container.
In a structure without a bottom, a concrete screed is not used. The base of the pit is laid out broken brick, pebbles or other material. Entering the pit, the wastewater is gradually absorbed into the soil. For such a pit, cleaning measures are needed much less frequently, because the bulk of the wastewater goes into the ground and filling occurs more slowly.
Stages of work on the construction of a cesspool:
- Dig a pit.
- Install concrete rings or make brickwork.
- Install a sewer pipe.
- Concrete the bottom or lay a filtration layer.
- Install the cover.
- Backfill the soil and put everything in order.
cesspool will fill quickly only when the daily volume of wastewater does not exceed one cubic meter, otherwise such a tank. If the groundwater level is high, the construction of a cesspool may be at risk of flooding during spring floods. Regular monitoring of the filling of the pit is necessary in order to pump it out in a timely manner.
CONSTRUCTION OF SEPTIC TANK
Popularity of installation in the country different types septic tank What is modern design treatment plant? Firstly, these are two or three chambers connected into one structure by pipes. To process wastewater, add special means containing anaerobic bacteria. The purified water enters the next chamber, where it undergoes filtration. Practically pure water enters the soil.
If inorganic waste is not disposed of down the drain, the septic tank may not be cleaned for decades. This is its main advantage. Sometimes it is enough to pour a small amount of the drug with bacteria directly into the toilet to enhance the fermentation process in the septic tank.
So that the septic tank lasts for a long time, you need to select a capacity good quality. Basic requirements for a septic tank chamber:
- Completely sealed.
- High resistance to aggressive substances.
- Opposition sudden changes temperatures
- Resistance to mechanical stress.
Best suited for all the above requirements the right size plastic tank. Already sold in markets ready-made containers septic tank They just need to be installed in the right place and can be used. This method of constructing a septic tank does not require much labor, but its price is slightly higher than a simple plastic tank.
You can make a septic tank yourself. To do this you will have to:
- Dig a large cesspool.
- Install the formwork, dividing the pit into two uneven parts.
- Concrete the base of the large compartment, and deepen the bottom of the smaller compartment a little and fill it with crushed stone.
- Concrete the walls of the septic tank, laying reinforcement mesh.
- Leave a hole between the two chambers for installing the overflow pipe.
- At the top of the wall of the large chamber there should be a hole for the sewer pipe to exit.
- Make a hole in the septic tank lid for the ventilation pipe.
Note! Anaerobic bacteria used for wastewater treatment, sensitive to chemicals containing chlorine. To provide quality work When a septic tank is built on a dacha site, it is necessary to carefully select products for washing dishes and cleaning plumbing equipment.
LOCAL TREATMENT PLANTS (VOC)
Today you can buy almost anything if you have the right amount of money. Manufacturers offer their consumers various models ready-made treatment plants. You must decide what exactly you need and pay for the purchase, immediately ordering installation of the structure.
Highly qualified staff will help you choose the right model and provide an estimate for installation services. There is no point in talking about savings in this case. All work on installation and commissioning of the structure must be carried out only by specialists.
Since the cost of VOCs is too high, not every dacha owner can afford such an installation. Local stations are bought mainly by owners of large country houses and cottages. For a summer residence, it is better to install simpler and less expensive wastewater treatment facilities.
It makes sense to talk more about laying sewer pipes.
SEWER PIPES
Today, plastic pipes are mainly used. In the store you can purchase all pipes of different diameters with sealing rings for connections, rotating parts, tees, and plugs. When creating a sewerage project, everything is carefully calculated and purchased in the right quantity.
Polypropylene pipes In order for wastewater to flow into the constructed septic tanks without problems, the pipes must be laid at a slope.
Note! The slope of the sewer pipe must be more than 1 degree towards the septic tank and less than 40 degrees.
It is not recommended to lay pipes with a large slope, so as not to destroy the pipes and septic tank. In addition to the slope of pipe laying, you need to think about creating inspectors on the site. Install manhole or an inspector is needed at least every 10 meters or at every turn of the pipe. If necessary, through an installed inspector, you can do the sewer cleaning yourself.
Try to dig the trench depth no more than planned. The excess depth of the trench will have to be concreted, and not covered with earth, in order to avoid deformation of the pipe after backfilling with soil on top and its complete subsidence.
Water supply and sewerage- an integral part of comfortable life in the country. Not regular use country house does not oblige you to install complex and expensive equipment for sewerage installations. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a dacha is not difficult. We will look at how to make a sewer yourself from a barrel, from concrete rings.
Internal sewerage, external sewerage, treatment devices and plumbing fixtures will all be included in a DIY sewer system.
Be sure to follow the rules according to SNiP:
- Pipeline tightness,
- One pipe material,
- The pipe slope level is 5 centimeters per linear meter
- No pressure
- The main riser must be open
- The connection to the riser is made with a tee or an oblique cross.
Installation of internal sewage system at the dacha
The work takes place in several stages.
The first stage is the project
You draw up a layout diagram of plumbing equipment, piping and treatment facilities. Be sure to consider the possibility of connecting additional buildings. Consider the level of soil freezing; pipe insulation may be required. Provide for the possibility of access by a sewage truck.
Second stage - septic tank
It is needed to collect and filter wastewater. Why a septic tank? A cesspool is always a source of unpleasant odor. Storage capacity will need frequent cleaning. A biological station is expensive and not rational for a summer residence. And the main advantage of a septic tank is the ability to make a septic tank with your own hands!
The main conditions for placing a septic tank are:
- Distance from green areas -3 meters,
- Distance from the house - 5 meters,
- The distance from the drinking water well is 30 meters.
A septic tank made of concrete is the most reliable.
We dig a pit and cover the bottom with sand (20 cm). We build the formwork and form a frame from reinforcement.
Important!
Nothing should go beyond the boundaries of the structure!
We fill the formwork with concrete mortar, but take into account that holes are needed for the entrance of the sewer pipe and overflow.
Then, we form the ceiling using boards and metal corners. We cover plastic film and reinforce metal mesh. Pour a layer of concrete on top.
The pit itself is filled with sand and soil alternately.
Important! Ventilation pipes located above the ground surface.
We have already said that they should be located on a slope, taking into account the freezing layer of the ground. On average, the depth of the trench for the highway is from 0.7 to 1.5 meters. Be sure to cover the bottom of the hole with sand. This way we will prevent the soil from moving and protect the pipes.
On a note!
A septic tank can be made from concrete rings or barrels. In this case, the design can be two or three chamber. The largest impurities settle in the first chamber, and the liquid flows into the second chamber. Solid components also settle in it. In the third chamber, wastewater is purified using drainage system made of sand, crushed stone and pebbles.
The advantages of such systems:
- Self-installation
Disadvantages of the systems:
- Unavoidable bad odor
- Mandatory cleanup of solid waste using equipment
Types of sewerage for a summer residence
Proper sewerage from concrete rings
We dig a pit, lay sand in a layer of 30-50 centimeters, concrete the places of the settling tanks (you can purchase a ring with a solid bottom).
The base of the filter well must have a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel, about 0.5 meters thick.
When laying the rings, fasten them together with a solution or metal staples. This way you will protect the septic tank from soil movement.
When installing overflow pipes from one hatch to another, install them with a bend.
We cover the finished well with a concrete slab and fill the pit with increasing amounts of sand.
Do-it-yourself sewerage from a barrel at the dacha
The design of wastewater treatment from their barrels is no different from the design from. You can use plastic and metal barrels. If you decide to use the latter, keep in mind that they need to be treated with an anti-corrosion agent. Sewage from metal barrels is suitable for country house, but not for home with permanent residence. Barrels used for sewage must have a volume of at least 200 liters. The joints will definitely need to be sealed. When organizing sewerage from metal barrels, be prepared for the fact that after 4 years they will need to be replaced.
Plastic barrels, of course, are not inferior to metal ones. This is a huge range, long service life, ease of installation, high tightness. If a large volume of wastewater will be drained into the sewer, it is better to install a cube, tank or tank. Installation will be no different from installing a barrel.
In order to plastic barrel not squeezed out of the ground, it is secured with cables to the concrete base. Pouring the base or installing the slab is up to you.