I wanted to build a house. I immediately encountered the problem of choosing a material. There wasn’t much money, but I wanted a house that was reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the offers of the modern construction market, I decided to settle on
On the forums they advise building houses with a cross-section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve outside workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside mineral wool, and the house will be warm.
To further save on construction costs, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.
Pouring the foundation
First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other things that were in the way. After this, I began laying out the foundation.
I had to think for a long time about what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. I studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. A specialized specialist helped me with this reference books. Additionally, I asked my neighbors what foundations their houses were on.
I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the construction of foundations, so most neighbors have houses on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often they even refuse reinforcement - this is what we have wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not “heaving”. The water runs deep and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need to install buried monolithic supports in my region.
I started by digging a trench. To begin with, I removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. For better sealing I spilled water on it. Then he lined the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. I tied them up in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. So I did.
To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order ready-made construction concrete for delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need that.
Alas, you won’t be able to save this much in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour in the building mixture.
While the concrete gains strength (and it needs 3-4 weeks for this), I will start preparing consumables.
Prices for timber
Find out more detailed nuances, from our new article on our portal.
Preparatory activities
Preparing dowels
The connection of the beam crowns is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scrap boards left over from other construction projects. In my case it was the installation of roof sheathing.
For dowels, use wood that is as hard as possible. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took some scrap boards and edged them on one side using a matching saw.
Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I received neat and beautiful blanks.
I sawed the boards using a band saw. At the end of the day I received a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.
Moss preparation
Dowels, sphagnum peat moss and boards The technology requires that between each crown of timber be laid. Professionals usually insulate roll materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue working. However, convenience and ease of processing come at a price.
I decided not to waste money and use moss. Firstly, this material is abundant in nature - go and collect it. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulator, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally, I studied thematic forums: moss is actively used as inter-crown insulation, and there are no negative responses about it.
Red or peat moss is best suited for insulation. The first one is different high rigidity. The second one becomes brittle after drying. If possible, it is best to use red moss. It is easy to recognize - it has long stems with leaves that resemble a Christmas tree.
Making joints
I make them for every door and window opening. For this I use flat timber. If possible, there should be no knots at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench directly next to my stack of lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed using a chisel.
Not even every professional carpenter can make the right joint. Therefore, I decided to make window jambs using simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. Behind horizontal connection the window block will respond directly.
To install the block you need a “quarter”. However, here too I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of sampling (it's shaded in the photo), I decided to glue in a strip. To do this, I sharpened the plane in advance. The result was no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.
It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the door opening - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be significantly simplified.
I chose grooves in the block, which in the future will serve as a threshold, similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to slide the bottom timber over the tenons of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - not the most pleasant or simple task. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts by first setting the appropriate output of the disk and making rip fence.
Then I took a feather drill and made a hole 2.5 cm in diameter, just like for the dowels. Finally, I cut out an even rectangle across the wood grain. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.
Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and at the bottom of each vertical jamb they create a counter protrusion, cutting down and sawing out excess wood using a chisel. I decided to make holes as for fastening dowels, and hammered in a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.
Upper horizontal beam I haven’t touched it yet, but nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take on the functions of a “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but it was difficult to cope with main function it doesn't bother him. Later I will plan the opening and glue the “quarters”.
Required Tools
To build a house from wooden beam I used the following tools and equipment:
- hammerless electric drill;
- circular saw;
- roulette;
- sledgehammer;
- electric plane;
- square;
- reciprocating saw;
- plumb line;
- hammer;
- water hose;
- axe.
I bought a circular saw to cut the wooden beams. I had to cut in two steps. First, I drew a line along the square, after which I cut, turned the beam over and made the cut again. It is best to transfer the line to the second edge of the beam using a square. If you are confident in your “eye”, you can cut “by eye”.
Using a circular saw, I made tenons and recesses for the corner joints of the beams. When arranging the tenons, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.
We are building a house
Rules for laying the lower crown
Laying the starter crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "into the wood floor". This unit can be made without any problems with a circular saw - just cut the material lengthwise and crosswise. In some areas the depth of the cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material using a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.
I placed the lower crown on board linings. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make vents there. In my region they are usually in the wall, not in concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation the wind moves at a higher speed than directly near the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.
Cutting timber. Half-tree connection I'm going to mount the floor beams on the pads - this way, I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.
The linings and timber of the lower crown were covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots most quickly. In my situation, there are pads underneath, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.
Reciprocating saw prices
reciprocating saw
Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns
Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners I connected the timber with the help of root tenons - the usual joining of elements is unacceptable here.
Taking a circular saw, I trimmed a couple of cuts. I transferred the cutting line to the second face using a square. The root tenon is easy to do, everything is demonstrated in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is made even simpler. Also demonstrated, but in the photo.
Important note! Keep in mind that in tongue-and-groove joints there should be approximately a 0.5-centimeter gap for laying the seal. A connection in which the wood simply touches the wood is unacceptable.
I first set the cutting depth I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the blade without any problems - you just need to loosen the lever. The add-on is convenient to use. If in traditional carpentry production the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares required amount blanks of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the depth of the cut is adjusted directly as the work progresses.
My saw is equipped with a thin disk - it takes much less effort to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut in any way.
The walls of my house will be longer than the timber, so I will have to join the building material. To do this, I made a notch at both ends of the long beam, removed the excess with a chisel, and got a tenon in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the grain is impractical. I used a trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second beam. The drill bit was not long enough to create a through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off the excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut the timber along the grain using a chisel. Connected the spliced beams. The gaps were filled with moss.
Helpful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to completely make tenons with a saw; you will need to additionally chisel with a chisel to complete the process. In the next photo you see the beams already with fastening spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.
I laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly performing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - the connectors of the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and made vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top beam. I moved the markings to the center of my beam. Then I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them using a hammer.
What do you need to know about dowels?
Logically, a round dowel would need to be driven into a round hole. Builders adhere to a different technology and use square dowels. Such fasteners are simpler to manufacture and hold the connection much more reliably. In this case, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.
The problem is that to drill hand drill a strictly vertical hole without the slightest deviation is impossible. When installing the beam of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will wobble a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally hammered with a sledgehammer.
The dowels I use work for shear and ensure correct shrinkage even if there are minor deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no gaps. Firstly, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.
Once I had to observe how builders made holes in a wall made of timber using a long drill and drove long round pins into them, which looked like the handles of a shovel or rake. Were these holes vertical? Naturally not. Ultimately, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.
Having driven in the dowels, I laid tow and moss on the crown. He laid the tow across the beams. The moss was simply thrown over the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. This will make it easier for me to caulk the walls in the future. Moss will provide adequate insulation of the building.
I installed the beams on the dowels, laid the tow, threw on the moss, and besieged the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it is still wobbly. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I densely filled them with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.
The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Shouldn't it be put in the corners too? No no need. Firstly, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for quite a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will continually flow into the corners. Moss will prevent the wood from rotting in these places. Secondly, in the future the timber in the corners will probably have to be planed. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can cause the plane to break.
Prices for tow
Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day I covered the corner joints to protect them from possible precipitation.
In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric plane - such a problem can be easily dealt with using a simple sledgehammer.
I worked with a plane at the very end, when the obstacle to the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. I used a plane to compare small “screws” and “humps”. I compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - their arrangement takes much less time than processing wood with a plane.
Why should we build a house?
You have already become familiar with the basic principles of laying each crown. Eat important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only I drill the holes for the dowels “checkerboard” in relation to the lower rims. After this, I lay down the tow and moss, and placing each beam in its designated place, I seal the joints in the corners.
That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:
- I'm laying out another crown;
- I make markings for dowels;
- I drill holes;
- I drive in wooden fasteners;
- I lay down the tow and throw moss on it;
- I repeat the sequence.
Along the length of the beams I join using the “staggered” method.
Having reached the height of the window sill (this is my seventh crown), I made markings for arrangement window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window block. There should be a pair of gaps on each side of the opening - between the jamb and the one being installed. window block, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of this, 155 mm was spent on gaps.
Based on the calculation results, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut tenons in the bars, similar to the stage with openings for doors.
The next crowns with a window opening were laid from timber without tenons, observing the same overall dimensions.
I constructed all the window openings from “short pieces”, the evenness of which was disrupted during the shrinkage of the timber - such material is not suitable for walls, and it would be a pity to throw it away. I didn't make any jumpers. While arranging the opening, I constantly checked its evenness using a plumb line. I also checked the walls.
I temporarily secured the separate partition with slats so that it would not fall during the work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not require additional strengthening - they are perfectly supported by their own weight.
Important note! In places where the tenons of the opening and the cutting line are arranged, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the oakum, because... when cutting, it would wrap around the cutting disc. In the future, the tow can be tapped from the ends without any problems.
After laying the last crown with the window opening (it needs to be laid temporarily without fastening or compacting), I removed the top beams and made cuts for the tenons. He put blunts on them. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I installed a parallel stop to maintain the required distance from the edge. It didn’t take me much time to do this kind of work. I was unable to cut the timber to the required depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.
IN lower crown opening I made tenons to control my assembly. I didn’t do this in the last crown - in the future, tenons will still have to be created in each beam.
On personal experience I was convinced that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “short” ones, is not the easiest task.
Light and short cuttings can be tried on before creating a recess or tenon. It may well turn out that a block deviating to the right will fall on a beam that deviates to the left. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams have a deviation in the same direction, you can’t count on the evenness of the wall.
To eliminate deviations, you can plan out the “screws” using a plane or lay the timber “ladder”. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using a plane. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being constructed using a plumb line.
Installing jambs and finishing work
The upper crown was laid. It's time to install the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements strength will be significantly increased finished design. Bottom beam Each opening is equipped with a full spike. On the upper beams there are cuts in the required places. I apply the guide, set the desired cutting depth and make the cut with a circular saw. After this, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the dimensions of the tenon and get rid of excess material using a chisel.
My tenons are smaller than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the tenons wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut off the excess material and fill the gaps with sealant.
I inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to add a veranda to my house. If you are planning to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the timber before starting its construction. I also mounted a smaller one on the crown.
The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The timber will have time to shrink. After that I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.
Instead of a conclusion
While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was pleased that I had to spend much less money on the foundation compared to other types of supports. It took a little money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and reinforcement.
Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable price and relatively low consumption building material. When the timber was delivered to me, I laid it out in a stack about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I had miscalculated somewhere and that I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 beams remained unused. In general, for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part of it is 6x7.5 m), I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. For timber 15x15 cm I would have spent 1.5 times more money. And additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.
Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made it himself, the moss is free. My friends gladly gave the oakum to me after finishing their construction work.
Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me on the farm in the future. I am especially pleased to have purchased a good circular saw and concrete mixers.
Now about the speed of work. I didn’t have much experience in timber construction. As practice has shown, in a whole day, working with one hand and provided the weather is good outside, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do this either faster or slower, I won’t argue.
And the main advantage of such construction is that you do not need to have any special skills to carry it out. And I was personally convinced of this.
I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you can, just like me, make your dream of owning your own home come true.
Video - DIY timber house
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I want to say a huge thank you to Alisher. I have never met such decent, honest, fast workers, and most importantly, they do their work very well. The other day I ordered construction materials for a gazebo for my dacha. The question arose as to how I should build it. First, I asked my friends who they would recommend. One team offered me 30 thousand rubles, another even charged me 40 thousand rubles. Then I decided to look in profi.ru. Alisher responded to my request. We agreed for 10 tr. In 1.5 days I had a finished gazebo, all the neighbors started asking for the phone number of my workers, how cool they made my gazebo. I called my friend’s husband, he’s a builder and he assessed the work very well.
Grade 5+Tatiana, Volokolamsk
Order services: Construction of houses.
We decided to change the construction team and came across Vladimir’s profile, which I am now very happy about, since Vladimir turned out to be an excellent foreman who always meets everyone, approaches the work responsibly, everything is completed on time and with high quality, thanks to him for the work done. It’s a pity that we didn’t meet him earlier, when construction had just begun.
Grade 5+Good afternoon to everyone who is reading this review. I would like to express my deep gratitude to Denis Valerievich Romonenkov for providing services for the construction of the BATH, I arrived on one call, everything was discussed, they wrote down on a piece of paper what needs to be bought for the construction, they communicated the material, how much of what was needed. Within a week I bought what Denis wrote. The builders arrived and started building on Monday. They installed the bathhouse in exactly a week, the builders are very neat (not... as it happens) For which many thanks to them too!!! In a word, I recommend Denis, he is a true professional in his field!!!
Grade 5+Alexander, Staraya Kupavna
Order services: Construction of baths and saunas.
Everything is fine! The guys responded to a request to correct the work of other builders (to correct a poorly prepared strip foundation fence, level and concrete the pillars, arrange the gate, secure the picket fence). Everything was fixed quickly and efficiently. In addition.. Additionally, we took on the job of correcting errors in the interior decoration of the house. I recommend!
Grade 5+Natalia, Istra
Order services: Gate installation. Construction of fences from European picket fences.
Konstantin Anatolyevich is a professional builder, they say about such a man in his place, he built me a wonderful two-story house over the summer, without finishing yet, but that, in fact, was the task and it was completed 100%. Of course, I plan to continue construction for him sensitive guidance. I will be happy to recommend it to my friends, as I am absolutely sure that it will not let you down, and the quality will be at its best.
Grade 5April 2016. Construction of an extension to the bathhouse. At the very first meeting, Alexey examined the entire scope of work in detail and within half an hour calculated the final cost. They agreed with the price. We signed an agreement. We agreed on the order of work. A week later, Alexey started. Quite quickly he erected the frame of the extension. All work was carried out within the initially agreed upon time frame (which surprised us; this was the first time we had seen this with builders). He approaches the work he does “with soul.” Listens to recommendations. Expresses practical suggestions and solutions. Overall, we are pleased with the results of Alexey's work. The first builder who cares about the result and is ready to adapt to the situation. We recommend!
Grade 5+Profiled wood with proper processing quality gives a gapless connection. A lock made of groove elements - the tongue of a labyrinth-type double cup lock has been tested for decades. Adjusting gapless corner joints can transform a frame timber house in a thermos without significant heat loss.
Cold bridges are blocked
Order ready standard project building a cottage from timber with reference to the region is profitable. It is up to the designer to select from savings on the network and adapt the technical design to the request. What are the advantages of the project:
- Get a detailed cost estimate for materials, components, cost of work;
- Issues of material shortages or sale of remaining surplus will not arise;
- Detailed drawings and subassemblies will lead you out of the maze of errors;
- Transport costs are optimized;
- Laying pipes and cables will not cause difficulties;
- The maximum cost of a standard project is 20 thousand rubles.
But the implementation of the idea depends on the need to hire a team of qualified carpenters. The level of responsibility, skill of specialists and the seriousness of hidden defects will become clear during the first wintering.
What should an ordinary person, inexperienced in construction, who is planning to build warm house from profiled timber with your own hands? Order a house kit from a local house-building plant and save a considerable amount of money with this step and speed up your move-in date.
Essentially, a house kit is a kit for the builder. Profiled timber cut to size, connecting locks dovetail made without gaps using precise factory equipment, which eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.
In the attached video, jewelery craftsmen use a chainsaw for this purpose. But are they capable of reproducing the precision of a machine production line? It can be seen that the cuts were made approximately, with a margin. Will they definitely caulk or foam the inconsistencies in the cuts? Doubt encourages self-building. And the cost of the work will amount to no less than factory processing.
Do-it-yourself house made of profiled timber
The benefits of purchasing a house kit made from profiled timber
The technological worker replaced the carpenter - that’s what machining means
The developer is limited in time, looking for an opportunity to reduce the cost of building a log house. Let’s look point by point at whether the costs of cutting and sampling are reasonable:
- You receive chamber-dried wood with 10–16% humidity in sealed bags;
- End processing with film-forming stabilizer INDULINE. This means that the main channel for moisture absorption is blocked, the web of cracks will not disfigure the cut;
- Each part is numbered, the instructions indicate the location of assembly;
- Adjustments and modifications are excluded, time is spent only on the process of assembling the house;
- Check prices at wholesale stores per cubic meter of long profiled timber. It turns out that the cost of a similar unit of a house kit is the same or up to 10% more expensive - this is where the benefit is hidden;
- A set of timber for a house with an area of 120 m2 will cost approximately 650,000 rubles, for 190 m2 - approximately 950,000 rubles;
- The average assembly cost will be 25% of the cost of the timber. Manage the reserve fund at your own discretion;
- The thickness of the log house will be offered according to climatic zone: the common timber size 150 x 150 mm is suitable for Voronezh. In Siberia, wall thicknesses less than 220–250 mm are unacceptable;
- Installation will be doubled;
- The material is 100% treated with antiseptic and fire retardant.
100% complete from base to ridge, this is the construction service
Ready-made house kits from the manufacturer
Laying the foundation
Weight of 1 m 3 of dried timber coniferous species 0.5 t. Roofing will be added, interfloor ceilings, furniture, wind and snow loads. The total weight will not exceed 40 tons for two-story house 10 x 10 m. Depth groundwater and soil type influence the choice of basis.
The pile will speed up the start of the assembly of the log house. Columnar and shallow foundations are labor-intensive: the volume of excavated soil is large. To prevent the concrete from getting wet, a compacted sand bed of 0.3 m is made, with a gravel cushion on top.
The concrete foundation is poured in advance, at least six months before the start of construction. Box reinforcement with a metal period of Ø 12–14 mm will strengthen the monolith. After the concrete has polymerized, the base must stand so that the heaving of the soil during freezing and thawing reveals weak points or confirms strength.
The marking of the foundation of the house is carried out in accordance with the drawing. Corner reference points of external and internal mates require special attention. Precision is required in the placement of threaded inserts. After removing the formwork, the walls and top edge are coated with a waterproofing agent. Insulation with polystyrene foam will extend the life of the foundation. Backfilling of clay is done with an outward bevel.
Raising a house from profiled timber
We level the upper edge of the foundation and lay 2 rows of roofing material for waterproofing. We lay antiseptic and treated bitumen mastic Fifty boards of a larger format: the logs will rest on them.
The bottom row is susceptible to rotting. Let's sacrifice the boards - they are easier to replace. We lay the first crown over the insulation layer. Special attention We pay attention to the coincidence of angles. We do not let go of the level, plumb line, and cord for checking the diagonal.
Insulation tape is inserted into the grooves of each row of profiled timber and corner joints of external walls. Wooden dowels, hammered with tension, strengthen the connection between the elements of the log house. Steel ties will cause dew point in the thickness of the material, causing decay and rotting. Therefore, they are used only to connect the log house with the foundation.
There is no loophole for the cold: the barrier is reliable
Installation of joists under the subfloor is consistent with the size of the slab mineral wool insulation in increments of 0.6 m. Fastening to the beam with reinforced corners and on hangers stabilizes the spatial position of the log.
Splicing is allowed by overlapping or by placing trim at the joint with a fixation zone of at least 0.6 m at each end. On both sides the logs are covered with 9 mm OSB boards or moisture resistant plywood. Installation of a vapor-conducting membrane is required.
The interfloor ceiling is analogous to the subfloor. The only difference is the amount of insulation that has become a sound insulator. Partitions are mounted in one axis - partial unloading is required load-bearing walls: in addition to its own weight, the roof transmits wind load.
The skill of assembling walls from profiled timber and partitions according to drawings and instructions comes quickly. An important concern, while the roof is not covered, is to protect the log house and unclaimed workpieces from precipitation and air humidity in bad weather.
In heat and frost, cracking of wood saturated with moisture is inevitable. The appearance of cracks will worsen the thermal conductivity of wood. Repairing damage is a long-term “pleasure” that lasts more than just one day.
Let's give the floor to the Scandinavians
There are a lot of insulation materials that are superior to wood in terms of heat conservation. And large-format profiled timber is used for roads due to the abundance of waste that is unsuitable for processing into building materials. Swedish builders decided to reduce the cost of processes by including paired parts with a thickness of 70 mm.
Using smaller section wood reduces costs by up to 40%. Foamed breathable insulation seals joints and reduces power heating devices even in the Arctic zone. Penoizol is ideal in terms of cost and thermophysical properties on the market.
An option was tested with the replacement of wooden beams with a laminated analogue of chipboard made from chips. The 100 mm heat insulator bears the main load for heat conservation. The resulting monolith is not afraid of warping and cracking. Shrinkage has also decreased. It often makes sense to adopt such a new product.
Progress does not stand still
If you know how to build, learn to wait
After you have brought the house under the roof, closed the windows and doors and left only gaps for drafts (let excess moisture blow out), you need to wait for shrinkage. Under its own weight, the tenons of the timber will cut deeper into the grooves of the structure. The pause lasts up to six months. Window, door frames They are waiting in the wings, otherwise the structure will warp.
Now is the time to spend additional insulation from the inside. It should be noted that in this way the costs of profiled timber are reduced: a reduction in size by 50 mm in thickness and width results in savings of 2–2.5 thousand rubles. per cubic meter
The only condition: natural and artificial materials having vapor conductivity. Let's turn the house into a polystyrene box - destroy the tree, set up a bathhouse in the room. You will have to invest in forced ventilation.
No matter how good the profiled timber is, the smoothness of the walls is relative. If you like the interior of the hut, leave it as is. The texture of the timber under a layer of varnish looks attractive. But, of course, the design of a modern stylish home requires a different approach.
As an option, drywall mounted on vertical holders will hide the flaws. A heat insulator will be placed between the guides and the house will not be afraid of the cold. While one floor is being finished, the other will become residential.
Protecting the facade of a house made of profiled timber, as a regular event, will drive you crazy. Varnishes, paints, impregnations fade under the sun and lose protective properties. Perhaps sooner or later you will have to think about a ventilated façade. But a house made of timber, covered with plastic cladding, will lose the charm of the natural material.
Result: own roof over your head
Conclusion
Construction of a house from timber on our own behind summer season- This feasible task. Do not make adjustments to the finished project - this may be the only wish of the manufacturer. The implementation of a large-scale project by the customer and the contractor as one person ensures that your expectations are met.
All photos from the article
Modern house made of profiled timber - this is a very reliable structure with high performance characteristics. The naturalness of the material makes this option much more attractive than most others, and the possibility of realizing any plans will allow you to realize the most original ideas. In this review, we will look at what nuances should be taken into account during the assembly process and what criteria should be used when choosing a specific option.
Pros and cons of this option
First, let's figure out what advantages profiled timber has:
| Environmental friendliness | Wood – renewable natural material, which does not provide negative impact on human health and the environment. The property of the material to absorb moisture from the air and release it allows you to always maintain an optimal microclimate in the premises, so living in such a house has positive influence on the body |
| Budgeting | Price of this material quite attractive, while the quality is much better than ordinary raw materials. Experts have calculated that the total cost of building a house from profiled timber will be lower than when using brick or other materials |
| Ease of operation | Assembling a house from profiled timber with your own hands is quite possible, but it is important to take into account one recommendation - buy ready set for this or that project, then you will have instructions at hand, and with the help of several people you will be able to complete the work in a fairly short period of time |
| Attractiveness | If you purchased high-quality processed material, then interior decoration for a house made of profiled timber will only involve applying a decorative and protective coating. You do not need to spend time and very substantial funds to purchase finishing materials, which further increases the attractiveness of the project |
Important!
Remember one simple recommendation: during the work process, handle the elements carefully, do not walk on them or place them on dirty surfaces, otherwise you will later have to remove all these contaminants using sandpaper.
It is much easier to be careful and not do unnecessary work.
To build a house from timber, certain carpentry skills are required. The process of building a house is carried out in several stages. Laying of profiled timber should be carried out according to the developed technology in order to achieve the best result. It is important to carry out appropriate calculations and select quality materials. The work carried out by specialists will help to build a house in the shortest possible time and save costs.
Laying profiled timber the right technology will provide high quality buildings Source tiu.ru
Foundation preparation
To build a house optimal foundation considered tape. To arrange it, stones and vegetation are removed, mounds and holes are leveled. When the site is leveled, the territory is marked. After this, a trench is dug, the depth of which depends on the height of the building and the soil, the width is at least 25 cm. The profiled beam is quite light, so for a one-story building you can use a shallow foundation.
For multi-story construction or construction on unstable soil, the foundation must correspond to the freezing level of the soil. On average, this figure reaches 1.2-1.5 m.
The following materials are needed for the foundation:
concrete, sand, crushed stone;
formwork;
reinforcing rods.
Any home begins with preparing the foundation Source penza-press.ru
The trench is filled with sand and crushed stone, and a mesh is laid with rods to reinforce the foundation. It is recommended to use tying wire rather than welding to connect the rods. The formwork is laid out, and then everything is filled with concrete. To make concrete mortar, cement, sand and crushed stone are used - all components are thoroughly mixed. The ratio of materials is 1:3:4, cement grade is at least 400. The foundation stands for about 2 weeks.
Laying the first row
For construction, only smooth and intact beams that have no visible defects are used. The laying of timber must meet all technological standards. Only light and dry materials are used; if gray sections or spots are found on it, then they cannot be used. During the construction process, roofing felt, bitumen, dowels and antiseptic are additionally laid.
For structural strength, dowels are used to fasten the beams Source myvideosait.ru
The dried foundation is covered with bitumen, roofing material on top, its width is at least 20 cm larger than the foundation, the edges hang evenly on both sides. Such waterproofing will protect the future structure from moisture. At all joints, roofing material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, coated well with bitumen and pressed. Before assembly, you need to determine the type of connection at the corners. The cutout is considered advantageous top beam the lower part, and vice versa for the lower part. This fastening option allows you to save on material, and the ends will not extend beyond the corners of the building.
All work on assembling the structure begins with marking and further cutting of the prepared material. Before assembly, the wood is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and only then holes are drilled in it every 50 cm along the beam. Two beams are laid on both sides, and on top, grooves are made in them at the ends. The row is leveled, the corners are adjusted, the protrusions are corrected with a plane.
After securing the first row, assembling a house from timber involves installing the floor covering, as well as the base of the walls. Beams of 15x10 cm are used. Grooves of 40 cm are cut into the beams inside(it is recommended to use “T”-shaped grooves), the ends of the beams must be trimmed. This insertion method increases the strength of the connections. After installing the beams, they are aligned horizontally so that they are in the same plane.
Marking timber
1 – joints;
A, C/D, B – longitudinal/transverse walls;
E – partitions.
Walls can be erected from solid timber and extensions, partitions/transverses - from solid timber. An overlap of 15 cm to the floor is made in the longitudinal wall. To obtain the most accurate and identical dimensions and cutouts, it is best to use templates that will help you quickly carry out the process and transfer the contours to the timber.
All markings on the uneven bars are made using the same template Source pinterest.ru
Joining the frame, drilling holes, insulation
Dowels made of wood or metal are used to connect each crown. From the end of the beam they are located at a distance of at least 25 cm, and then every 0.9-1.5 m. For any part, even the smallest, at least two dowels should be used, the length of which is at least one and a half times more timber. The dowels must be buried several centimeters into the tree.
The holes are slightly smaller in diameter so they fit snugly. The depth of the hole is several centimeters greater than the dowels used. For drilling, use a drill with a limiter so that all dimensions are the same. The seal is carried out with a special insulation tape. The tape is stretched over the entire surface of the beam in several layers and secured with staples. On the outside, if the wall is not sheathed, the gasket is made at a distance of several centimeters so that it does not get wet.
The beams are laid overlapping each other, the edges are secured with dowels Source rwhouse.ru
Walling
The log house can be tied in several ways:
in a paw or bowl - for round logs;
on the root tenon - for rectangular section, a labor-intensive method, but provides high density joints
The dowels used can be made of wood or metal. Standard sizes are 12-15 cm high, 2.5 cm thick, the holes for them should be a few centimeters deeper. The laid row is adjusted in the corners, the insulation is laid and the next crown of logs is placed on top, then the dowels are driven in. The insulation can be tow, felt or jute. The materials are fixed with a stapler. When several rows have been assembled, openings for windows and doors are cut out, and holes are made on the cuts to ensure air exchange. On the last two rows, grooves are made for the ceiling.
At a sufficient level of timber laying, openings for windows and doors are cut Source iskona.org
When assembling walls, one must take into account the fact that virtually all the beams will differ by millimeters from each other, which can negatively affect the result. Therefore, you can make a flat side only from the inside or outside. Sometimes you will come across a bent or twisted beam. It is recommended to cut the former into small pieces, and use the latter for various outbuildings on the site, bathhouses, or use for other purposes. A beam curved in one plane cannot be used for walls, expecting that it will level out under the weight of other materials - this will not happen. Curved timber can be laid into a wall only by leveling it horizontally and sequentially fixing it with dowels.
During the work process, the assembly is constantly checked and monitored following parameters. If any deviations are detected, further work is stopped until the problems are resolved. Particular attention is paid to the height of the corners and verticality. In case of problems with verticality, the problem is eliminated until the beams are replaced. In this case, the height of the corners can be adjusted by spacers between the rims.
All corners in the house, vertical and horizontal, must be 90° Source cocinandote.com
The assembly of a log house can be carried out in two ways of laying the timber - with or without residue. In the first case, you can get a warmer and more stable house with the simplest possible construction scheme. However, the material will be consumed with big amount waste, increased installation cost and smaller building area. In addition, such a house is very difficult to insulate or cover with siding. In the second case, there will be no convex walls, so you can additional finishing and insulation, the total space inside increases. But it is very important to adhere to all the technology so that the house is not blown out.
Openings for doors and windows
The formation of a doorway begins with the 2nd crown, the height to the window is at least 70 cm. The formation of openings can be carried out in two ways. “Rough” opening in preparation for creating the opening. The opening itself is prepared for installation after the timber shrinks. The assembly of the structure is accelerated; beams are installed in the openings to secure the walls.
In the second option, they immediately prepare for installation, installing decks that connect the beams and act as slopes. If installation will be carried out metal-plastic windows, then you don’t have to place the decks. A vertical groove is made at the ends along the opening into which the rail is inserted. The slats/blocks are made 5-7 cm smaller than the opening so that it does not interfere with shrinkage.
Installation of windows and doors with a “rough” opening is carried out by cutting it to the appropriate dimensions. The joints are sealed using insulation; it must be nailed at an angle. Then the window frame is inserted, fixed to the deck with self-tapping screws, there is a gap on top for shrinkage, it is filled with soft insulation.
When installing a window frame, be sure to leave gaps for shrinkage Source patter.ru
Roof assembly
The beams are laid at a distance of 90-110 cm from each other; if the attic is used as a living space, then 15-20 cm beams are used, non-residential ones - 10-15 cm. Then the support posts and rafters are fastened. For the lathing, boards approximately 15 cm wide and a maximum thickness of 2 cm are used. The distance between the rafters depends entirely on the weight of the ceiling, the standard is 1.2 cm, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails. Maximum attention is paid to the fasteners of the support posts. Waterproofing is applied to the sheathing, and then the roofing covering.
Video description
Briefly, the process of building a house from timber is shown in this video:
On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer turnkey construction of houses from profiled timber. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Conclusion
Laying profiled timber requires certain knowledge and skills. It is very important to prepare quality material and follow all construction technology. Only in this case can you get a good, warm and durable house, bathhouse or other building. Profiled timber is different favorable price and light weight, so it allows you to further save on the foundation.