Wooden logs are required to ensure natural ventilation of the underground space and better heat retention in the premises. Thanks to the use of logs, the floor covering can last much longer. However, among people who do not have much experience in the construction business, one can often hear the question, is it necessary to attach logs to a concrete floor? Experienced craftsmen know that for a truly durable flooring that does not change its geometry under load, and for its long service life, it is necessary to correctly fix the logs on any supporting structure, including on a concrete screed.
Now that it is clear whether it is necessary to attach the logs to the concrete floor, it is worth noting that this task is not difficult, does not require special skills and knowledge, and, therefore, any home master can handle it.
- Materials and tools
- Fasteners
- Tips for choosing a lag
- Instruments
- Ways to install a lag on a concrete floor
- Fastening the lag on a metal corner
- Fastening the lag to concrete pillars
- Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for attaching a lag to concrete
- Step between lags
Materials and tools
Fasteners
The question of how to fix the logs to the concrete floor has different answers: simple or adjustable structures can be used for this. In the latter, special screws are used, by tightening which, the lags can be aligned. In addition, the choice of fasteners and fastening methods depends on which logs are used.
Most often, the lag is fastened to the concrete floor with metal anchors or self-tapping screws with polypropylene dowels, the dimensions of which are selected depending on the section of the selected beam for the lag.
The choice between anchor nails or self-tapping screws is due to the following:
- Cheaper, of course, self-tapping screws, but the anchors are more reliable. In practice, fastening with self-tapping screws is almost always enough.
- The advantage of anchors is that in addition to fixing the bars, they tightly press the logs to the base. This becomes especially important when the topcoat is quite heavy and is regularly subjected to mechanical stress - this must be taken into account when choosing how to properly fix the logs to the concrete floor.
With modern technologies, the logs under the wooden floor could not be fixed at all, however, such a solution would greatly increase the likelihood of the floor covering being skewed or the log moving from its original place. Therefore, with regard to fastening the lag, it is best to rely on old methods that have been time-tested more than once.
However, fastening may not help if low-quality or inappropriate lumber section or incorrect fasteners are selected for work.
When lags are selected on a concrete floor, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- type of wood;
- lumber grade;
- length and section;
- price.
For reasons of economic feasibility, you should not take expensive wood, because spruce, fir or pine, if properly processed, can last no less. The appearance of the material does not really matter either, however, specimens corroded by grinders or blackened by mold should be brushed aside. Of lesser importance are the evenness of tone and the correct geometry of the lag. For this work, varieties B and BC with a moisture content of not more than 20% are suitable. As it is customary to work with lumber, they should be stored in a dry room for some time so that they equalize in humidity with the surrounding atmosphere.
Before attaching the logs to the concrete floor, all wooden elements must be thoroughly soaked with an antiseptic.
Instruments
Since the task is how to lay the logs on the concrete floor, you will have to use the following tools in your work:
- Drill and perforator.
- Carpentry tools: circular saw, hacksaw, planer.
In addition, you will have to spend money on waterproofing, which must be spread over the entire surface of the concrete. When calculating the amount of material, you need to add more overlaps of 10-15 cm to the floor area.
Ways to install a lag on a concrete floor
The methods of attaching the log to the concrete floor come down to four main options, having familiarized yourself with which, any master can choose the most suitable one for himself.
This is the simplest way to attach the lag, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable for every situation.
- First, you need to drill holes in the beam to match the diameter of the plastic dowel, and make a reciprocal hole in the concrete with a puncher.
- Then the dowels are hammered, after which the screws are screwed into them or the dowel-nails are driven deep into the ceiling.
- At the same time, the head of the screw should sink a few centimeters into the hole.
It is often asked which step of attaching the log to the concrete floor is better to choose? There is no strict standard here - the step can vary from 40 cm to 80 cm, on average, you can safely focus on half a meter.
Logs will be held securely enough only when there is a small gap between the base and the timber. This must be taken into account by those who want to know how to properly lay logs on a concrete floor.
Anchors, unlike self-tapping screws, not only firmly fix the logs, but also attract them to the concrete surface. Thanks to this installation, wooden beams will hold more securely, so most craftsmen prefer to use anchors. In addition, this powerful fastener will restrain the deformation of the tree to a certain extent, especially if it has not been sufficiently dried beforehand. But tearing the anchor out of the concrete base is much more difficult than driving it in, so workers will have to spend a lot of effort during dismantling.
Be that as it may, but when using anchors, the floor covering will not swell, but it can bend. To avoid the latter, it is necessary to install gaskets more often.
- Installation of a log on a concrete floor here begins with drilling through holes in a bar.
- Then, in front of each of them, reciprocal holes are made in the concrete.
- After that, the anchor bolt is inserted into both holes and twisted with a box or open-end wrench. In this case, it is important not to overtighten the bolt, otherwise it will bend the beam, especially when there is a gap in this place. Then on the finishing field there will be a recess.
Before installing the anchor in the beam, you need to drill a recess of a larger diameter so that the bolt head fits there.
Anchors should be spaced in 60-100 cm increments, and their length should be enough to penetrate about 6 cm into the concrete. Anchors with a diameter of 10 mm are most often used. Usually one lag is held by 4-5 anchors.
Video about fixing the log to the concrete floor with anchors:
Fastening the lag on a metal corner
With lags 10 or more centimeters high, it becomes inconvenient to work. For their fastening, it is better to use steel corners, which will be in contact with the log with one shelf, and with the concrete base with the other. Fixation in this case is carried out: to concrete - with dowel-nails, and to the beam - with self-tapping screws. In this case, the main load should fall on the gaskets, and not on the fasteners, because the corners should only fix the position of the beam.
To better bond the lag to the surface, you need to use self-tapping screws, in which the thread does not reach the cap.
You can also fasten wooden elements to a concrete base using a galvanized steel corner. The installation process is as follows:
- Attach the corner to the log using self-tapping screws, which should go deep into the wood by at least 30 mm.
- Attach the corner to the concrete base with dowels.
Video on how to fix the logs to the concrete floor with corners:
There is another option, how to fix the logs to the concrete floor. For this, a rectangular stand is used, which is attracted to the base with four dowels. In the middle of this stand there is a hairpin, which penetrates the beam through and through.
By rotating the nut located under the beam, you can accurately set its height, and with the help of the upper nut, fix the element in the required position.
This system is not so difficult to install, it is attached to the floor with dowels, and in the log you will need to make a hole for the hairpin. The frequency of mounting supports under it depends on the section of the log, however, in any case, it is not recommended to make an interval of more than 1 meter. A similar option for attaching a log to a concrete base, although recognized as optimal, however, due to its high cost, has not become too popular.
After fixing the lag, a draft floor is laid on them from boards, OSB or similar materials. If the work is done with high quality, then the appearance of the finish floor can be impeccable.
Fastening the lag to concrete pillars
Logs are attached to concrete pillars in the same way. Here the same fasteners are used, but intended for poles.
- In advance, the pillars must be waterproofed by coating them with simple bitumen or bituminous mastic. The upper section of the pillars can be waterproofed by placing pieces of roofing material pre-cut according to its configuration on it.
- Also, in advance, holes must be made in the bases of the pillars and in the timber, into which a dowel or anchor spacer should be driven.
- The beam is attracted to the post with a self-tapping screw, in which the length is 2-3 times the width of the strut.
- Also, the beam can be attached with special metal plates equipped with screws. To this end, they are screwed to the base of the pillars with dowel-nails, and a through hole is drilled in the lag, into which you will then need to insert a screw and screw the lag to the top of the pillars. Thanks to this, the lag will hold on tighter.
Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for attaching a lag to concrete
Attaching wooden logs to a concrete floor is easy, even alone. There are several mounting options, and below are the steps of one of their standard methods.
- Lay waterproofing on the concrete base (roofing material or a simple PVC film). The joints between the pieces must be fixed with special tape.
- Next, you need to decompose the logs on the floor with a certain step. This step will depend on the material from which the final flooring will be made: when using a 25x100 mm sheet pile, the logs can be laid with an indent of 70-80 cm, and for other materials, the step will need to be reduced to 40 cm.
- If the length of the material is not enough to cover the entire room, then the elements can be joined using an iron corner or by making notches that form a joint into a root spike.
- Before installing the logs on the concrete floor, you need to deal with the extreme logs, which will be located near the walls. They must be laid in level, clearly leveling their height by placing wooden planks or pieces of plywood under the beams. It is most convenient to use a laser level. When the extreme logs are fixed, a nylon thread is pulled between them, which will be a guideline when installing the rest of the log.
- To attach a beam to a concrete floor, you need to make holes in both. A dowel or steel anchor spacer must be driven into the hole in the concrete. Each log must be fixed with at least four anchors, and the screws must be placed 40-60 cm apart.
- It is necessary to prepare the levelers for the lag in advance - cut chipboard or plywood into even strips. With the help of these elements, the lag structure is fixed in an even position (pieces of plywood are simply placed under the lags if you need to lift them) so that the finish coating on it does not creak or walk.
- If, on the contrary, there are bulges in the concrete base, then the log will have to be leveled not by laying plywood, but by selecting a part of the material from below with the help of a planer.
- When all the logs are installed in their places, then thermal insulation should be laid between them, for example, expanded clay should be covered.
- Before closing the finish coat, you should think about laying the necessary communications. It is also desirable to use a layer of vapor barrier.
Step between lags
How to properly lay logs on a concrete floor if different materials are used for the topcoat? Below is the relationship between the thickness of the floor boards and the distance between the lags:
- with a board thickness of 20 mm, there should be a distance of 20 cm between the lags;
- for boards with a thickness of 25 mm, a step of 50 cm is required;
- for 25 mm - 60 cm;
- for 40 mm - 70 cm;
- for 45 mm - 80 cm;
- for 50 mm - 100 cm.
If the floor is plywood, then the step between the lags is determined differently:
- with a plywood thickness of 15-18 mm, a lag step of 40 cm is required;
- at 22 mm - 60 cm.
How do you prefer to fix the joists to the concrete floor, and why? Share your opinion or experience in the comments.
The growing interest in wooden housing construction in our country has given rise to the need to inform the population about the methods and techniques used in the construction of wooden structures. Many are interested in how to fasten the beam to each other, how to mount it to the wall, and what are the advantages of certain technologies and materials.
We will try to answer these questions.
The reliability of a wooden house or a bath from a bar depends on how to fasten the bar to the bar.
Beam connections
First of all, it should be said that the traditions of building with wood all over the world are incredibly rich and diverse, which is an obvious consequence of the vast experience accumulated by mankind in this branch of craft. With the development of wooden construction, a huge number of craftsmen, schools, traditions and ways of processing details appeared, so there is simply an unimaginable variety of approaches to working with wood.
Moreover, each master makes his own adjustments and improvements, improving and complicating the generally accepted methods of pairings, fastenings and locks. It is impossible to consider all these techniques within the framework of one article, therefore we will limit ourselves only to the main and relevant methods of fixing parts in our time in the construction of wooden walls.
So, the joints are different in the spatial arrangement of parts relative to each other:
- Crowned. These are interfaces between parts located in adjacent layers or crowns of the wall (top or bottom), which prevent the displacement of logs in the horizontal plane, their rotation and movement under the action of gravity of the upper layers;
- End longitudinal. They are used when increasing the length of a log within one crown and prevent the displacement of parts relative to the longitudinal axis, as well as an increase in the gap between them;
- End corner joints. Serve for fastening logs when forming corners between walls. They prevent displacement of logs and walls relative to each other, as well as rotations and changes in the degree of the angle set in the project. They prevent the expansion of gaps between parts in the corners of the building, the occurrence of drafts and cold bridges;
- T-joints. They are encountered when joining internal walls and partitions with the external walls of the box of the house or between themselves. Serve for reliable rigid fastening of the inner wall and prevent its displacement and undocking;
- Various interfaces between wooden and stone structures, which show how to attach the beam to the wall.
Important!
When considering certain methods of fixation, one should take into account the capabilities of a modern tool and the level of your skill when working with it, as well as the expediency and laboriousness of each method.
This is especially important if you intend to work with your own hands.
In each of the listed types of fixing wooden parts among themselves, there are many ways of fastening and various techniques for making locks and bowls, so they should be considered in more detail.
Crown connections
A crown connection is a fastening between parts along their longitudinal horizontal plane, with which they lie on top of each other during the construction of walls. This fastening should keep the parts from displacement along this plane, rotations and falls under the action of gravity and internal stresses arising in the structure.
To implement the crown method, the following fastening techniques are used:
- With the help of metal pins and nails;
- With the help of self-tapping screws;
- With staples;
- With the help of wooden dowels;
- With the help of plug-in spikes and dowels;
- With the help of special milled locks (in profiled wood).
When using metal fasteners, it should be remembered that increased metal corrosion occurs at the points of contact between wood and steel, which leads to premature damage to nails or pins, as well as damage to wood at the points of contact. This is the easiest, fastest, cheapest and most unreliable way to fasten wooden parts.
Most often, metal pins 6 mm thick or special nails without a hat are used. The main load will be applied at an angle to the axis of the fastener, so the presence of a hat is not necessary, especially since it will interfere with the installation of the upper log.
Before mounting the mount, the log is drilled to a depth slightly greater than the depth of the pin or nail. Sometimes parts are drilled through, but these are already insignificant subtleties, the main task is to fix the product in a horizontal plane.
Staples and self-tapping screws can be considered as auxiliary or temporary means of fixing wall elements, as they are short-lived and unreliable. In addition, staples spoil the appearance of the structure.
Move on. Wooden dowels are the most common and proven method. Everything is simple here: instead of a metal pin or nail, we use a wooden peg of a round, polyhedral or square section (usually round), which is hammered into a pre-prepared hole in the log, and the next part is placed on the protruding part.
I must say that the method is quite simple and ingenuous, but at the same time very reliable, strong and durable. For the manufacture of durable wood is used: oak, beech, ash.
Important!
Nagels should consist of durable wood, have a moisture content lower than that of the parts of the house, as well as their own fibers perpendicular to the fibers of the timber.
If you are working on your own and do not have impressive experience in carpentry, this method can be considered a good compromise between complexity, laboriousness and reliability of fastening. Moreover, the pin is easy to find and buy at a hardware store or receive complete with material.
Also, for crown nodes, plug-in spikes and dowels are used, which are inserted into specially prepared grooves located along the horizontal surfaces of the logs. Today, connections are more common with the help of a tongue and groove, machined in the product at the factory during profiling. This is typical for glued beams and kits for building wooden houses, since the presence of such a lock greatly simplifies and speeds up the assembly of a log house.
End longitudinal nodes
If you do not know how to fasten the beam together with a longitudinal build-up, we present to your attention such a method as a cut. Also, this method is called a direct or oblique lock, pairing “in the paw”, “in the floor of the tree”, etc.
In addition, there are such ways:
- Fastening with a longitudinal spike on the dowels;
- Fixation with a longitudinal root spike;
- Combined nodes.
Important!
In the case of straight and oblique locks, the parts should be additionally fastened with wooden dowels at the points of contact between the surfaces.
To do this, two holes are made in the middle of the castle and pegs are inserted into them.
When working with glued profiled timber, longitudinal extension is not required, since the parts are selected for a specific project and have the required length. Despite the fact that the price of this material is high, a sufficient number of such advantages makes it very popular.
Corner joints
Corners are the most critical parts of the construction of a wooden house. Therefore, special attention is paid to fasteners.
There are many ways to implement a mate such as an angle:
- Residual end-to-end with a direct lock or "to the floor of a tree";
- Residual with the help of an oblique lock or "in the paw";
- Butt fastening on the root spike;
- Butt fixing on the insert key;
- The bowls with the remainder are one-sided, two-sided and four-sided.
Important!
Butt fastening is practiced with nails or plates, but we do not recommend this method due to its unreliability and fragility.
The most common and reliable method of butt fastening is the use of a root tenon. This is the usual straight or trapezoidal spike and groove with which the parts are connected.
The methods on the tongue and dowels, in general, do not differ much. The “to the paw” and “to the floor of the tree” methods are also similar to each other in terms of characteristics, the “to the paw” connection is somewhat more reliable.
When working with profiled timber, mates are more common with the help of special bowls, or “with the remainder”. To do this, a special seat is cut out in the product at the end, into which the next part is inserted. The bowl can be one-, two- or four-sided.
In what cases is it necessary to fix a wooden beam to a wall? When mounting various structures to the wall, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the structure, details and methods of fastening. Often there is a need to fix any element of the interior, furniture, fix household and electronic appliances on the wall. In order to install a wooden door, make redevelopment, clad a house, or simply install a canopy over the front door of a private house, you need to install a wooden beam. If you want to make an extension like a wooden porch for a country house, you will need to attach a wooden beam to the wall.
First you need to figure out what kind of wall it is, wooden or brick, concrete or drywall, in order to choose the right method and fastener details.
Today in any store your choice will be presented with a wide selection of fasteners. Not every person will be able to independently make the right choice without getting confused in their purpose.
Having prepared the beam and drilled holes in it for the fastener, you can begin to prepare the wall on which the structure will be attached.
- Let's drill a hole first. We will need a carbide twist drill, a drill with a pobedite tip or diamond-coated.
- To maintain the life of the drill, periodically cool it in water to prevent overheating.
- Then prepare a wooden cork by dipping it in glue, but not water-based, so that the wood does not swell.
- You can also make your own lead plug. To do this, take a sheet of lead, cut off a strip suitable for the hole, twist it into a tube.
- Then we pierce it with a nail and twist the screw there.
And you can also use a monolith from a solution of alabaster or gypsum.
Let's take a copper wire and wind it onto a screw in the form of a spiral, then fill the hole with the prepared solution and coat the wire on the screw with it. Without a second's hesitation, in order to avoid the solution drying out, we press the screw into the hole to the required depth. Remove the squeezed out excess solution without waiting for solidification. After 10 minutes, the screw should be removed to prevent it from drying out along with the mortar. When the cork becomes a monolith with the wall, you can proceed to fixing the timber.
Although when it comes to concrete, be it brick or mortar, anchor bolts are best. They will ensure the strength of the fastening.
If you have to work with a brick wall, use only a drill. Drill carefully and slowly, evenly without loosening on the sides, to avoid splitting and scattering bricks. If you hit concrete, it is better to use a drill with a hammer function, this will help crush it. Often there are cases of falling into a hollow brick. How to be here? It is better to use a dowel, which, when twisted, folds into a knot. Carefully screw it into the drilled hole so as not to break its parts.
It is better to screw self-tapping screws into concrete using dowels made of durable plastic. The dowel is laid between the concrete and the self-tapping screw. It can also be pre-lubricated with glue.
For attaching a wooden beam to a brick wall, an anchor is also perfect, which, unlike nails and screws, will cope with any load.
Before you start fastening a wooden beam to an aerated concrete block, you need to consider that aerated concrete is an easily processed material, since it is quite soft. Therefore, the value of the load of the beam here has a very important role.
If this is a small bar of light weight, then you can use bolts or self-tapping screws. Wedge-shaped bolts will be more appropriate, because they sit firmly in the material. A screw with a thread along the entire length is also suitable.
For fixing heavier structures, shelves or cabinets, metal or plastic dowels are needed.
For fastening solid materials, it is better to use nylon dowels in the center of the object. Hollow materials can be caught around the edges.
When making connections with an aerated concrete surface, it must be taken into account that parts made of metal, interacting with the block, can be destroyed. So consult with experts, they will definitely tell you proven fasteners.
In this case, the perforated fastening method is common both in roofing and in the furniture industry. Perforated elements are fixed with nails, screws or screws.
Perforated plates connect parts in the same plane, for example, roofing installation. There are also corners, different in width, to strengthen and connect the structure. For auxiliary elements of low weight, a mounting tape is suitable.
Nails are the most common way of fastening wooden structures. Liquid nails are more often used in everyday life, furniture assembly and construction. The use of nails will seem very easy, but we must not forget the technique of hammering a nail. If you use a bolt with a nut on the end, you can easily hammer a nail in any hard-to-reach place. Calculate in advance how long the nail you need. For a more durable connection of the boards, the nails are driven in at an angle to each other. Wood that is too dry will crack faster with a nail. If the timber is too dense, hold the nail with pliers by the middle so that it does not bend. For large nails, you can pre-drill a hole that will be narrower than himself. Make a small hole for the cap.
With the help of drywall, you can create various designs of fairly flat surfaces. At the same time, it is quite fragile, so it will be problematic to fix a wooden beam on its surface. The use of ordinary nails and screws will not lead to the desired result. Even light objects can be torn out, taking a self-tapping screw with them, and leaving a hole.
For fastening strength, before starting the installation of drywall sheets, a wooden beam is laid in places where reinforcement is expected in the future. Thus, the load will be on the beam itself, so that fastening can be done with the same self-tapping screw. But during installation, it is often not always foreseen what kind of load will be in one place or another.
There are special fasteners for drywall. Depending on the load on the beam, the type of fastening is selected.
When using a nylon or metal anchor, first screw it into the drywall with a screwdriver, then fix it with a self-tapping screw. But this method is the weakest, since there is no fixation on the reverse side.
For a stronger fixation, it is better to use a drop-down metal anchor. To do this, insert the folded anchor into the hole. Tighten the anchor with a screwdriver, it will fold, fixing in the drywall sheet.
In order to fix the beam with a universal plastic dowel, you must perform the following steps:
- drill a hole of suitable diameter;
- insert the dowel into the hole;
- we fix the object we need with a self-tapping screw;
- at the same time, the dowel is folded into a knot, providing fixation on the reverse side.
The most reliable mount is time-tested
When attaching a beam to a concrete wall, of course, fixing with an anchor will be the most reliable fastening.
Reliable fastening of a wooden beam has been known since ancient times, when there was not even a concept of “quick installation” and “perforator”, self-tapping screws and dowels had not yet been invented. In a wall made of bricks, blocks, or in a reinforced concrete ceiling, a hole was made with a bolt. A large wooden rod was hammered into a hole smeared with cement. A nail was driven into this rod through a wooden beam. Despite the fact that now our choice is provided with various fasteners and elements, modern machinery and equipment, this method of fastening, although tough, is still common. It is appropriate to use this method for small loads on the timber.
A softer method is the use of U-shaped brackets for the drywall profile. A positive difference here is the short installation time. But the mount is not strong enough. If you hit a wooden beam with force, the bracket will bend, and the surface of the structure will be broken.
Fastening a wooden beam to a brick wall - technology features
In the process of performing various construction works, there is often a need to fix the beam on a brick wall. For inexperienced craftsmen, this task often raises a number of questions. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to fix a wooden block to a brick wall, as well as some other wooden parts.
Fastening the beam to the wall
In what cases is it necessary to fasten the beam to the wall
Fastening timber to masonry is a fairly common construction operation that may be required in the following cases:
- When fastening various structures and interior elements.
- When doing remodeling.
- In the process of insulation or facade cladding - in this case, it is necessary to fasten the wooden crate to the brick wall.
- For installation of peaks and the canopies adjoining the house.
Below we will consider in detail how the installation of the beam is performed.
Installation of a wooden crate
Beam fastening process
Instruments
Before attaching a wooden beam to a brick wall, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:
- Electric drill;
- A hammer;
- Building level;
- Dowel type "quick installation".
Mounting
The instructions for fixing the beam on the wall are as follows:
- First you need to find the position in which the beam attached to the wall should be.
- Next, you need to make holes for the dowels, which are drilled through the timber. At this stage, it is important not to move the part, so it is better to do the work together, so that one person holds the beam, and the second drills holes.
The step between the fasteners depends on the cross section of the beam - the larger it is, the smaller the step should be, respectively. For example, if a bar with a section of 5x5 cm is attached, the step should be about 20 - 30 cm.
In addition, depending on the section of the bar, the size of the fastener is also selected. The maximum size is 8×120 mm and the minimum is 6×40 mm. As for the choice of drill, it must match the diameter and length of the dowel.
- Then you need to countersink the holes in order to install flush fasteners. To do this, holes are drilled a few millimeters with a drill corresponding to the diameter of the fastener head.
Inserting a plastic dowel into a hole
- After that, plastic dowels are inserted into the holes with their own hands.
- At the end of the work, nails are inserted into the dowels and hammered. As a result, the fasteners expand and are firmly fixed in the wall, while holding the wooden part.
Note! The dowel nails have slots for a Phillips screwdriver, however, they are not designed to be screwed in. The slots are made only for the purpose of simple dismantling of fasteners.
This completes the installation process. I must say that before, before the advent of quick installation, the timber was attached to the walls using ordinary dowels. However, now this technology is not used, since it is much more complex and time consuming.
Beam termination example
Beam installation
Separately, it should be said about how the wooden beam is supported on a brick wall. This procedure is very responsible, since the beams usually take on a large load or even serve as a ceiling. Therefore, the embedding of the beam into the wall (support) must meet certain requirements for strength and reliability.
So, the installation of beams is usually carried out in special niches with a depth of at least 150 mm.
The process itself looks like this:
- The first step is to trim the ends of the beam at an angle of about 60 degrees.
- Then the ends of the part are impregnated with an antiseptic liquid, and after drying, they are treated with resin.
- Next, the bottom of the niche is leveled and covered with several layers of roofing material.
- After that, the ends of the beam are wrapped in roofing paper and stacked so that they do not reach the wall of the niche by about 40 millimeters.
- Then the remaining space in the niche is filled with concrete.
This completes the embedding process. It must be said that in order to stiffen the structure, additional fastening of the beam with an anchor is often performed. In this case, the anchor is installed even during the laying of the wall, and is located at a distance of about 12 cm from its outer surface.
Embedding scheme using an anchor
The other end of the anchor should protrude 20 cm into the room. At the same time, a hole is made in it to mount the beam, corresponding to the diameter of the pin. This method of installation is used in cases where it is necessary to obtain a fastening of special strength.
Jumpers
It should be noted that there are a number of requirements for the wooden lintels themselves:
- The thickness should be twice the thickness of the brick.
- Wood must be of high quality, without cracks and knots.
- The moisture content of the wood should be no more than 8%, otherwise the jumper may lead.
Note! Before laying the beam, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition and flame retardant. This will prevent it from rotting and make it fire resistant.
In the photo - a wooden jumper
The installation process looks like this:
- First, the sites on which the jumper will rest are prepared. They are cleaned of debris and covered with several layers of roofing material on top. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the jumper should go on the wall by 20-25 cm.
- Then a cement mortar is applied and the jumper itself is laid.
- Next, the position of the part is checked by the building level. If necessary, it must be corrected.
- When erecting subsequent rows, the space between the end of the lintel and the bricks is also filled with cement mortar.
Advice! It is desirable to make a jumper from durable wood species, especially if the structure is massive. For example, an excellent option is an oak beam, although the price of this wood is quite high.
Here, perhaps, is all the basic information about fastening timber and other wooden parts to brick walls.
Conclusion
It is not difficult to fix a beam on a wooden wall or lay a beam on it. However, like any other construction operation, this work requires strict adherence to technology. The strength and reliability of installation depends on this (see also the article “Mounting balusters to a wooden staircase: technical features of installation. Safety recommendations”).
You can find some additional information on the topic voiced above from this article.
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