What to lay on a wooden floor under a tile. Laying tiles on a wooden floor: the technology for proper preparation of the base and the specifics of the work

Wood cladding may raise some doubts, however, there is a certain laying technology in this way. The advice of experts will allow you to take into account all the important points in the installation process and carry out repairs in the room with high quality.

1. Can I tile on the wooden floor in the bathroom?

Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. Facing in this case is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.

Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:

• If the surface is in good condition, in this case, minor processing is carried out and laying can begin;
• In the presence of serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First you need to repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.

Calculate the amount of material required for flooring the room, while taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When repairing with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. With a diagonal layout direction, the tile consumption will increase significantly, since it will be necessary to trim.

2. Preparation of the base for facing

When thinking about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, you should first treat the surface of the base. Check the surface carefully before tiling. The covering can be made of a board, or a laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough level boards, which are fixed on wooden logs.

Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. mechanical way.
The meaning of this method is to use a grinder, or an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of sandpaper. Grit No. 40 is suitable for primary processing, No. 100 or No. 80 is recommended to complete grinding. The main advantage of mechanical action is the possibility of cleaning large enough areas.

. Thermal way.
For processing, you will need a high-power hair dryer that can warm the air up to + 300 .. + 600 degrees. It is necessary to keep the device at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor, after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or a metal spatula during operation.

Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning wood from paint.

. Method of chemical influence.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. The paint is impregnated with a chemical composition, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.

Organizing the draft floor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, the construction is completed with sheets of chipboard, plasterboard or plywood. Keep track of the evenness of the coating, the logs must be mounted according to the level.

Before laying the material, sheets of chipboard, plywood or GKLV must be treated with drying oil of warm temperature, or with another composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.

Preparation of finishing material

Immersion in water will help to force the air out of the tile, 10-20 minutes is enough. If spots appear on the outside of the tile, then a slight wetting of the surface from the inside is sufficient.

3. Do I need a screed?

Before laying, you should check the coating and assess how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.

What alignment methods are there?

• Wet screed . Suitable for those cases when it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is organized around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the mounted coating;

• Dry screed . This method is the most popular, because it allows you to create not only an even, but also a reliable floor with a high bearing capacity;
• Leveling with GKLV sheets is considered the easiest option. . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, the joints are treated with sealant. You should also impregnate the sheets with a primer mixture.

4. Laying tiles

The main steps for laying tiles on a wooden floor:

• On the eve of the floor cladding, you need to determine the location of the parts. The center of a large wall is measured and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
  
• The resulting lines at the point of intersection indicate the center of the room if the room is a rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting layout option, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls as much as possible.
  

  The floor around the bathroom is advised to be tiled symmetrically.

• The composition of the glue is treated with 1 sq.m of the base in one of the corners measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
• Under the condition of a flat surface (differences in height no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is minimized. In this case, it is enough that the layer is less than 5 mm, because the adhesive composition only serves to adhere the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special adhesive on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, the consumption of glue depends on the thickness of the tile.
  

  It is not necessary to knead the entire volume of glue at once, because the laying takes a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted, as needed.

• You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After that, you should continue laying, heading along the marked markings. Cover the entire area of ​​the floor treated with glue.
  

• The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be observed. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the rest is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the complete drying of the adhesive composition.
  

  The individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.

• We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with undercuts. In order to accurately cut off some details of the finishing material, it is better to use a construction cutter.

Sometimes, when laying flooring, it is necessary to go around an object in the bathroom. In this case, use the exact contour by cutting it with a power saw.

• After the glue becomes solid, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.
  

  There are collections of floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information is specified on the packaging.

• A scraper with a rubber tip is able to fill all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge, on the eve of drying;
• If the bathtub is located close to a lined wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with a tiled fugue or moisture-resistant grout.

This type of finishing material for the floor is very popular and there are no serious problems with its installation today.

Fortunately, manufacturers produce a lot of adhesive compositions characterized by high adhesive qualities.

There are, however, difficulties with laying, only in private households.

And the most key ones are the presence of floors from. Here the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor is particularly acute.

And, if possible, how is it done correctly, what is the emphasis on, what nuances should be taken into account, and what should not be done? Detailed instructions and warnings for novice masters are fully set out below.

The use of tile flooring in private homes is also justified by the fact that under it you can organize a water-heated floor or an electric one.

This will save money on paying for, as well as in view of a number of advantageous qualities of the material:

• High wear resistance
• Long service life
• fire resistance
• Tiles can withstand high loads
• Ease of care
• Ease of installation

Preliminary work and calculations

After everything became more or less clear with the choice of material, you need to make the correct calculation of the tile. There will be no particular difficulties in this, if you have even the slightest idea about the cost of laying tiles. And it happens:

• Straightforward
• Diagonal (oblique)
• herringbone
• Offset

It is worth dwelling a little more specifically on the choice of tiles in the bathroom of a private sector room.

Here preference should be given to non-slip. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bath in principle, you can read more about the laying process a little lower in the following subsections.

Formulas and nuances of calculating the number of tiles

• calculate the area of ​​the room
• add 7% to the received indicator
• divide the result of the calculation by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plate
• divide the result by the number of tiles in one package
• round to whole number

If the “diagonal” laying method is chosen, then approximately 12% is added to the final result (for trimming). With the herringbone layout method - 15%. The simplest and most economical - "rectilinear". If a floor with a pattern is laid out, then the materials for it are completely different and more complex.

Proper preparation of wooden floors

This is the most important stage of work, since the quality and the final result as a whole depend on it.

There are several ways to prepare a wooden base for tiling, the choice of one of them directly depends on the condition of the floor at the moment.

A wood floor is a one-piece construction, not just top floorboards.

This includes: logs, beams and substrate.

And they need to be double-checked before laying.

Gender check

Experienced craftsmen recommend using exclusively tongue-and-groove boards with a new floor covering, which implies a complete disassembly of the structure. Even if, at first glance, the floor looks perfect, it does not emit any creak, the floorboards are securely fixed and do not wobble at all.

Note! If the logs are installed at a distance from each other in increments of up to 50 cm, it must be additionally redesigned, in this form it will not be able to withstand the weight of the new flooring.

Algorithm for verification work in a wooden base:

• Floorboards are removed
• Beams and logs are being audited
• The level checks the evenness and horizontality of the supporting structures

If there is no possibility of raising the lag, then a wedge or a piece of scrap is hammered under it, fastened, and the excess is simply cut off.

Surface preparation

Wood by nature is an organic material, which means that it cannot be considered stable and reliable. With an increase in humidity, it swells, with its lack - on the contrary, it dries up, decreasing in size.

This raises the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a private house, with such technical characteristics of the base.

Experienced craftsmen give a positive answer, provided that before laying it will be organized to cushion the movement of the floorboards - a damper layer. Where he turns to the base of the tile with a solid surface, and elastic to a wooden one, taking on pushes.

Important point! When constructing such a layer, it is important to remember that the tree must breathe, otherwise it will begin to rot or deteriorate from fungus and mold.

What is important to do when processing the floor:

• Treat thoroughly with antiseptics and impregnations
• Fill the distance between the lags with expanded clay of fine fraction
• Prepare new or old floorboards
• Important to consider! When using old floorboards, they should be additionally prepared - completely remove the paintwork.
• Lay the floorboards on the structure with a gap between them of 5 mm (for expansion)
• If there are cracks, knots on the floorboards - they need to be puttied and sanded
• Fully sand the coating, after roughing
• The gaps between the boards are filled with tape or foam
• To organize monolithic insulation, the surface is coated with latex impregnation or heated drying oil

Lightweight tie device

The third stage of preparatory work is the creation of a solid foundation for tiles. It is rational and correct to organize an ordinary monolithic screed, only lightweight because it cannot withstand a full-fledged, considered base.

In principle, three types of screed are used for laying clinker, porcelain stoneware or tile:

• Standard monolithic - thickness no more than 3 cm. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing layer, fixed with self-tapping screws and poured with concrete mortar.
• Liquid glass or KS glue. You can also use a two-component polyurethane adhesive. They are used to create an elastic coating, to prevent cracking of tile dies from wood movements.

A screed based on liquid glass can be prepared.

To do this, you need to prepare: liquid glass, water and washed coarse sand in proportions, respectively - 2: 1: 2.

If the bath in a private house is dry, then the surface of the floors can be leveled with GVL or DSP boards.

They are laid at an angle of 30 0 C, but so that the joints of the plates and the joints of the subfloor do not match.

You can protect and additionally fasten the seams with a special adhesive for drywall.

Highlights of installing tiles on wooden floors

The entire laying process consists of the following steps: marking, preparing the adhesive, laying and grouting the tile joints. We will not dwell on each separately this time, but we will analyze the most important ones right now:

• It will not be superfluous to place the tiles on the floor before “landing” them on the glue. So you can distribute the material as accurately as possible by removing the edged parts, select a more accurate pattern, and so on.
• It is very important to adhere to the line of the window opening when laying. The lines must be strictly parallel to it. To make it convenient to adhere to the same width of the seams, you can use crosses in your work.
• To increase the adhesion of the base of the tile and the floor, you can use a special cement-based adhesive in your work.
• To increase the strength characteristics of the hitch, you can use compounds containing plasticizers or add them yourself to the adhesive at the rate of no more than 15% of the total mass of the adhesive.
• It is important to remember that the glue must be used completely within three hours.
• The working surface (glue application area) should not be too large - optimally one square meter.
• If mistakes are made during laying, they must be corrected within 10 minutes, otherwise it will be impossible - the glue will begin to stick.

Important point! You need to start laying from the farthest corner, move towards the doors, focusing on the center lines.

The only and nevertheless important disadvantage of laying tiles on a wooden floor is its fragility, but, with proper care for 7 years, it is guaranteed to serve as a reliable and durable foundation.

Despite the fragility - this is the most optimal momentary problem of organizing flooring. Moreover, there are no special difficulties and problems in installation. The main thing is to properly prepare the wooden base, and everyone who reads the material will know how to do it.

About laying tiles on wooden bases - on the video:

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

The vast majority of apartments, especially those built during the Soviet period, were equipped with wooden floors. But for rooms with high operational load or high humidity - such as corridors, kitchens, bathrooms, showers, tile floors are more suitable. Ceramic tile (tile) is superior to wood in terms of durability and practicality. It is much easier to keep it perfectly clean. But will the tile lie on a wooden floor if you don’t want to disassemble it? Or is it not possible to do so?

What are the challenges of laying tiles on wood?

The installation of tiled floors requires a perfectly flat, fixed base. The tree is sensitive to changes in the microclimate of the room: it swells with excessive humidity, dries out and shrinks when used at high temperatures. Such a base is not suitable for tiles: it will crack or begin to “walk”. When using small tiles, cracks will go along the seams between the floor elements.

In turn, the wood is also uncomfortable under the ceramic layer. Wooden parts, devoid of natural ventilation, will become unusable much faster under the influence of dampness and microorganisms.

But modern materials and appropriate technologies make it possible to create an intermediate layer that allows you to lay tiles on a wooden floor.

Revision of the old coating

Before choosing a method for preparing the base for laying tiles, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection. The sequence of future work will largely depend on the condition of the old floors.

Under no circumstances should it be laid on newly erected wooden floors. They should be given at least two to three years to shrink. So in new buildings, tiles cannot be laid on wood. We must either wait or completely dismantle the floors and construct a fundamentally different foundation, for example, a concrete screed.

It should be noted that the tiled coating is laid for a very long time. Therefore, you must be absolutely sure that the elements of the old coating will last no less. It makes no sense to start fussing with tiles if it will soon have to be opened due to rotten base elements.

Professionals insist on a complete overhaul of old floors to find and replace all defective elements.

Be sure to check the condition and the distance between them. It should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise the base may not withstand the weight of tiles, glue and other materials.

Strong boards with no visible defects can be used, but first they must be freed from the old coating: paint or varnish. You can do this in different ways:

1. Mechanical - clean off the coating with an abrasive tool: sandpaper, grinder, grinder with a special nozzle.
2. Thermal - heat the paint with a building hair dryer. It will swell and be easily removed with a spatula. Some masters manage to use an ordinary blowtorch for these purposes, but we must remember about the possibility of fire.
3. Chemical - remove varnish or paint using various reagents. But the tree, having been saturated with them, will emit unpleasant odors for a long time, so this method is used very rarely.

Foundation preparation

So, you should carefully disassemble the wooden floors, assess the state of the log. Replace defective ones, add additional logs if necessary, securely fasten them and align them.

All elements of the wooden floor structure must be treated with an antiseptic. After it dries, you can update or replace the insulation. This may be a layer of expanded clay, mineral wool slabs or another type of thermal insulation. When laying, the recommendations for the use of the selected material must be observed.

Between the boards of the subfloor and the insulation, it is necessary to leave a space of 5 cm to create natural ventilation.

When mounting the flooring back, you should not fill the boards closely, but leave a gap of several millimeters between them so that the tree can breathe. A gap of 10 cm is left between the floor and the walls. Then it can be sealed with mounting foam.

The course of further work depends on the chosen method of preparing the base. The main ones are a lightweight screed device, or polyurethane adhesives.

• A layer of mortar is applied to the floor surface, consisting of sand (2 parts), liquid glass (2 parts) and water. All components must be thoroughly mixed.

The tiles are fixed with a two-component polyurethane adhesive. It retains its plasticity after hardening, so that it will not only provide a secure fixing of the tiles, but also compensate for small fluctuations in the parts of the subfloor.

Lightweight screed

The meaning of this method is to create a solid and even base, not connected to the walls and wooden floor. This floating design will ensure the integrity of the tile flooring. The optimal thickness of the screed is 30 mm: a smaller one will not give sufficient strength to the base, a larger one will significantly increase the weight of the floor.

• A layer of waterproofing is created. It can be rolled material: glassine, bituminous paper or even thick polyethylene. Often use waterproofing mastics or heated drying oil. In this case, reinforcement with fiberglass masking mesh is used.
• A damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the room between the floor and the wall.
• A thin metal mesh is attached to the waterproofing layer with self-tapping screws.
• A 30 mm high screed is poured.

You can use a regular mortar of cement and sand, but it is better to use self-leveling mixtures: they dry much faster, and it is more convenient to work with them.

• After hardening, the screed is primed, and then the tiles are laid in the same way as on a conventional concrete base.

Plywood base

To create an even and solid base for tiles, plywood sheets are used. It is better to cut them into 4 parts. Laying is carried out, observing the following recommendations:

• After impregnating the base with an antiseptic and laying a waterproofing layer, the plywood is fixed in a checkerboard pattern.
• A compensating gap of 5 mm is left between the individual elements. In the future, it can be sealed with a sealant or foam.

Plywood is also subject to thermal expansion, which is why a compensating gap between individual sheets is needed. And also a gap of 10 mm wide is left around the entire perimeter of the room.

• The resulting surface is processed with a grinder along, across and obliquely. Then primed.
• A waterproofing layer is formed from latex impregnation, paint mesh and liquid glass solution.
• The tile is attached with polyurethane adhesive.

Plywood can be replaced with moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber boards. The technology will not differ much, but it is worth using components designed specifically for these materials.

Laying tiles

Tiles are laid on wooden floors in the same way as on a concrete base:

• Laying starts from the middle of the room or from the far corner opposite the entrance.
• With lightweight screed or gypsum boards, it is recommended to use cement adhesive solutions, for plywood or boards - two-component polyurethane adhesive.

The success of laying and the longevity of the floor covering is 50% determined by the competent preparation of the base. According to clear building regulations, only a perfectly leveled surface that can “hold” the weight of ceramics and its own stable position can become a worthy base for tiles. Due to the fact that the “windy coquette” of wood does not tend to remain constant, laying tiles on a wooden floor has long been considered a pointless procedure. However, there are building schemes, the use of which can reconcile the "playful" nature of the building material with the tough temper of a tiled or clinker finish.

How to reconcile ceramics with a wooden base?

Due to the organic origin of wood, it cannot be attributed to "unshakable" building materials. It shrinks from a lack of moisture, swells from an overabundance. A new wooden floor still settles for one and a half to two years after construction, and even after the expiration of the post-construction shrinkage period, advances still occur. Movement imperceptible to the human eye negatively affects the solidity of the tiled surface. Structural bonds are broken, tiles peel off and crack. As a result, not only all the work goes down the drain, but also a lot of money invested in finishing.

This means that the task of a home-grown finisher is to create a kind of damper layer that dampens the characteristic movement of wooden elements. With a solid outer part, this layer must be turned towards the ceramic coating, and the elastic rear must be substituted for the pushes and blows of the wood. In addition, the wood covered under it needs to breathe, otherwise it will quickly rot, defeated by fungi and mold.

Preparatory stage - preparation of the foundation

By a wooden floor, we certainly do not mean only plank floorboards that can be seen from the outside. This is a multi-layer structure, consisting of powerful beams laid "in a cross" along them with a log and a substrate located under the boards. Before tiles are laid on a wooden floor, all elements of this complex-composite system must be carefully examined and tested.

Revision of the wooden base

Since the finishing of a new wood floor is recommended to be done exclusively with a tongue-and-groove board, it is not difficult to guess that it is necessary to analyze the floor for revision. After all, the floor with wooden floorboards has already served. The lack of squeaks and wobbliness of the boards is no excuse for laziness. It is possible that the already brewing problem can simply not be felt.

Attention. If the joists have been laid in increments of more than 50 cm, the entire floor will need to be laid or it will not support the weight of the ceramic screed.

Let us assume that the design satisfies us completely. Then we carry out revision, repair and preparation in the following sequence:

• removing existing flooring
• we check beams and logs, replace damaged or starting to rot elements;
• check the horizontal position and carry out the alignment;

Note. If you raise the log in the usual way - by driving a wedge or lining sawn timber under it, it is impossible, the board must be sewn on top, then the excess is cut off, focusing on the level readings.

• we generously treat all the components of the wooden floor with antiseptic impregnations, best of all with mastics with the maximum renewal frequency indicated in the technical specifications;
• after the antifungal impregnation has dried, we fill all the spaces between the lags with expanded clay of a fine fraction. We fill up the insulation so that between the top line of the lag and the surface of this heat insulator there is 5 cm left for ventilation;
• we are preparing the floorboards for re-laying, they will serve as a rough base, since GVL or waterproof plywood, despite the convincing assurances of the manufacturers, will not withstand intense exposure to moisture and repeated temperature fluctuations. Although dry leveling with drywall, chipboard or plywood is quite suitable for arranging a bathroom, a small sauna kitchenette and a rest room;

Attention. Those who wish to tile on a wooden subfloor covered with used boards must remove the paint or varnish from the floorboards. It is easier and cheaper to remove the coating with sandpaper or a sharp scraper. Can be quickly removed with a special chemical “wash” or a hair dryer that softens the protective and decorative coating.

• we lay back the boards that have become draft, leaving gaps of 3-5 mm between the floorboards to ensure the probable expansion of the subfloor. We fasten the boards with galvanized self-tapping screws (one in each ordinary log, two in the last ones);
• in the presence of small defects, holes from the former fasteners or knots, they must be puttied;
• the laid subfloor is leveled with a grinder or corny sanded if leveling is not required;
• a centimeter technological gap should remain along the perimeter of the floor. We fill it with silicone mounting foam or glue it with a polymer membrane tape (we bend a 30 mm strip of the membrane in half, fasten one part to the lower edge of the wall, the second to the floor);
• the gaps between the boards, between the sheets of plywood, if it was used to level the floor in “dry” rooms, we also fill it with mounting foam or glue the membranes with tapes;
• to form a monolithic insulating layer, we process the subfloor with heated drying oil or latex impregnation without the notorious savings.

Note. Instead of mastic, you can use parchment paper, bituminous or waxed roll analogue.

If it was decided to carry out waterproofing with drying oil or impregnation, and not with roll insulation, without waiting for their final drying, the surface to be prepared must be completely covered with a masking net. This will create a continuous insulating layer for laying tiles on a wooden floor, protecting it from moisture and compensating for the effects of wood movement.

Lightweight tie device

Now you need to form a solid rigid base for the ceramic floor cladding. This will be a standard screed, but lighter and more refined, since the wood does not need extra pressure at all.

The basis for laying porcelain stoneware, clinker or tile on a wooden floor can be arranged in three ways, these are:

• Pouring a standard cement screed, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 cm. First, we lay a metal mesh over the waterproofing and fasten it with screws to the rough base, then we fill in the traditional cement mortar, which can be replaced with a polymer screed.

• Instead of the compositions intended for the formation of the screed, we use KS glue with a base of liquid glass. A two-component polyurethane adhesive will do instead. It will also create an elastic layer after polymerization, which prevents cracking of the tile from the deformation vagaries of wood.

Note. A solution with liquid glass for pouring the screed can be made with your own hands. To do this, you need to mix one part of water, two parts of washed and sifted coarse sand and two parts of liquid glass.

• In the "dry" rooms of the bathhouse, you can make operational dry leveling with DSP boards or moisture-resistant drywall. We lay them “in a run-up” at an angle of 30º to the direction of laying the draft boards so that the butt seams do not match. The seams can be additionally glued with a composition designed to work with gypsum boards.

Description of the technology of the tile laying process

Before gluing, we will make a preliminary “fitting”, we will figure out how to lay the tiles on the floor more beautifully. Cutting cannot be avoided, but it is better to place the cut parts in shaded areas and on the periphery of the room. Therefore, we will start the preliminary layout from the central part and from the most illuminated zone. We will immediately determine how many tiles will need to be cut, and prepare them in advance. If you do not need to cut a lot of tiles, stock up on a tile cutter. For numerous trimming of tiles, you will need a grinder.

Further steps for laying ceramic tiles on a properly prepared wooden floor are no different from standard methods, so:

• To begin with, it is recommended to find the center by crossing the diagonals. We divide the room into four equal segments, outlining the directions with coated paint cord along the walls or diagonally, depending on the chosen layout scheme.
• We prepare the glue in the strictest accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. We do not dilute it more than is required to finish 1 m² of floor.

• The solution is applied with a spatula-comb to the floor surface. The size of the teeth of the comb tool depends on the dimensions of the ceramic elements. For a large tile 0.8 mm, for a smaller one.
• We lay the tiles on the surface treated with glue, inserting plastic crosses into the butt joints, in extreme cases, matches.
• We constantly control the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as the horizontal position, by applying a bar to several tiles.

Note. It is possible to level the masonry and correct the shortcomings only until the adhesive solution hardens. Longitudinal and transverse directions can be adjusted by slightly shifting. The "sunken" tile must be separated, the missing mortar added and laid again.

All adhesive "bloopers" from the surface of the tile must be removed with a damp cloth, without waiting for the solution to seize. After the laying is completed and the glue has hardened, the seams are moistened and rubbed.

In many houses, the floor is made of joisted floorboards. When walking, it bends, so the correct installation of tiles or porcelain stoneware on a wooden floor becomes not an easy task. In this article, we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor and how to prepare the base.

Unlike wood, tile has a number of advantages. Its qualities are excellent for use in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Tile:

• does not ignite;
• non-toxic;
• not afraid of contact with chemical solutions;
• withstands heavy loads;
• does not conduct electricity;
• does not lose its appearance from moisture, sunlight or frost;
• ceramics is unpretentious in cleaning.

The main drawback of the tile is the cold surface, so it will not be very pleasant to walk barefoot. To get rid of this, often use underfloor heating. installed even on a wooden base.

Laying process

Installation of tiles is designed for a durable and hard surface. Therefore, first you need to survey the existing floor.

As a rule, old floors consist of several layers:

• coating (laminate, linoleum, parquet, painting);
• substrate (chipboard, boards, plywood), which is fixed on the logs;
• Logs that lie on a concrete base along the entire floor with a gap of about 50 cm - they serve as the frame of the structure.

Wood floor preparation

First option

Suitable for those who have and bends.

1. 1. Remove old coating and backing. If the old lags are in good condition, then you can leave them as a basis.
   2. Remove the floor sheathing with a nail puller. Then set the logs on the substrate in a horizontal position using a level.

For greater preservation of the tree, treat the logs with a protective impregnation.

1. 1. Fill the logs to the upper level with fine expanded clay. This will prevent the boards from bending when walking.

1. We sheathe the surface with boards (see article about) or thick plywood. Boards should be fastened with 2 self-tapping screws about 5 centimeters long.
2. For ventilation, leave small gaps between the boards or then drill holes.
3. We lay parchment paper on top of the boards and lay a new substrate. For this, gypsum fiber sheets with a thickness of 20 millimeters or a cement-bonded particle board of 10-20 millimeters are suitable. Sheets need to be fastened in a run-up using self-tapping screws around the perimeter of the lags, in increments of 15-20 cm.
4. The gap between the wall and the floor can be filled with mounting foam.
5. Now prime the surface and lay the tiles as you would a normal floor.

Second option

Suitable for those whose floor is in poor condition, but the conditions allow for a screed.

1. Remove old floor covering. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, the wooden floor is waterproofed under the tile.
   The easiest way to waterproof is to use a plastic film.
2. Using a laser or water level, mark the horizontal line of the floor around the perimeter of the room.
3. At a distance of about 1 meter from each other and about 10 centimeters from the walls, install beacons. To do this, use metal profiles, screwing them to the concrete with dowels.
4. The screed is made either with a solution of cement and sand (composition: 1 part of M-400 cement to 3 parts of sand), or cast concrete.
5. The average consumption will be approximately 15 kg per sq. meter with a layer of 1 cm.
6. If you need to fill in too large a layer, then first pour expanded clay between the beacons, 2/3 of the layer thickness. Fill with a screed and wait for drying during the day.
7. After drying, clean the surface from the floating expanded clay. Prime and fill with mortar. This time you need to align it with the lighthouse rule so that the floor is even. Start leveling from the far corner towards the exit.
8. After three days, prime the screed and preferably fill it with a self-leveling mortar.
9. Everything! The screed is ready - now feel free to proceed with the usual methods.

Third option

Suitable for those who have a floor in good condition and sheathed with chipboard sheets.

1. Waterproof the gaps between the wall and the tree with mounting foam.
2. Soak the chipboard several times with protective impregnation or heated drying oil (be careful, this is flammable).
3. Then apply a thick layer of latex to the chipboard surface.
4. Immediately after applying it, place a masking net on the surface, and leave to dry.
5. When the latex dries, the mesh must be fixed with screws to the floor.
6. Treat the surface with a mixture of the following composition: 1 part water, 2 parts liquid glass, 2 parts coarse sand.
7. It is advisable to additionally level the surface with a self-levelling mortar. When everything is dry, tiles are laid on the wooden floor.

Video on laying tiles on a wooden floor in an apartment:

That's all the basic methods on how to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. As you can see, this is not an easy task, which will require a lot of additional preparation. And if you put a tile directly on a tree, the tile will quickly crack and fall off due to constant movement.