Wooden houses have always been considered the warmest, most comfortable and environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is not surprising that in our time, many owners of suburban areas dream of building a wooden dwelling.
What will be discussed:
We build from timber
Today, instead of traditional logs, a wooden beam can be used for this purpose. This is a new generation material, characterized by durability and a wonderful appearance, and it is so easy to assemble buildings from it that even non-specialists can handle it.
The advantages of buildings from this lumber also include:
- · High thermal insulation which several times exceeds similar property of other construction materials and allows to save considerably on energy carriers.
- · The bar is more than twice as strong as logs, it does not crack.
- · For production of material polyurethane glue, safe for the person and environment, is applied.
- · Houses made of timber, unlike log houses, are practically not subject to shrinkage, so construction and interior decoration will take much less time.
Material selection
Before you start building a house with your own hands, you need to choose the material. In today's building materials market, manufacturers offer several types of timber, which differ in their functional characteristics.
Glued laminated timber is considered the most durable and resistant to external influences. It is shown in the photo below.
For its manufacture, well-dried lamellas are used. Due to the fact that all areas with various defects are removed from the source material, glued laminated timber becomes more durable, and its appearance also improves. Next, the lamellas are hissed and glued so that different layers of wood fibers complement each other. This method of assembling the beam makes it very durable and resistant to pressure. Assembling a house from glued beams is quite simple.
Today they also produce profiled timber (on the bottom photo). Its main difference is the presence of special grooves that facilitate the assembly of the structure. It can be solid or glued, rectangular or d-shaped.
The main difference between glued material is that it does not shrink. You can start decorating the walls immediately after the assembly is completed. Profiled lumber may shrink slightly, but it is many times less than that of a wooden frame.
The answer to the question: how much does it cost to assemble a house from a profiled beam depends on how thick the material you choose and what degree of humidity it will have.
Material calculation
If you decide to assemble a dwelling from a bar with your own hands, at the initial stage of construction, you should calculate the volumes of the required building material. To do this, the perimeter of the future building is calculated and multiplied by the estimated floor height. The result is multiplied by the thickness of the lumber. The result will be a figure equal to the number of cubes of material for the construction of one floor. A tree should be added to the resulting volume for the assembly of interior partitions.
Assembly preparation
To properly assemble a house from a bar with your own hands, you must follow some recommendations. All lumber is carefully inspected and sorted. Next, all noticeable irregularities are planed from the surface. Following the project, determine the length of each beam, trim and mark. To speed up the assembly process, you must first prepare the dowels and drill holes for them. All prepared timber is laid out on the side of the wall where they will be laid.
Stages of construction
Before you assemble a house from a 150x150 timber, you should prepare the foundation. Its depth and type depend on the size of the house being built and the characteristics of the soil on the site. After the foundation has sufficiently stood, you can start laying the first crown. If you are assembling a house with your own hands, be sure to take into account the advice of experts: do not lay the first crown immediately on the foundation.
This is the place most exposed to moisture, so a board should be laid between the concrete and the timber, which, if necessary, can be easily replaced. Its thickness must be at least 50 mm. Before laying, the board is treated with an antiseptic solution.
After laying the first contour layer of the bars, crown masonry is performed. Jute is used to seal the joints between the previous and subsequent rows. To strengthen the structure, every two beams are connected with dowels.
To prevent lumber from deforming in the area of window and door openings, part of the timber is laid according to the dimensions of the wall. After the shrinkage has passed, the unnecessary tree is cut out.
The floor of the first floor and the attic are insulated with a layer of mineral wool. After 3-4 months, you can start internal work. Before that, all the walls are once again inspected. If cracks appear on the surface of the beams during shrinkage, they must be repaired, the cracks are caulked with jute.
On top of the wall can be varnished. It will protect the wood from moisture and UV rays. To reduce the cost of paints and varnishes, the walls are polished. In addition, a coating applied to a smooth sanded surface will last longer.
Step-by-step instructions on how to assemble a house from a bar in the video below. This video describes in detail all the necessary steps of work.
In order for the house you built to be reliable and last for decades, do not forget about the following recommendations.
- Before assembling the structure, the material is planed and chamfered.
- It is impossible to use nails to fix the beams; dowels are suitable for this purpose. For a beam 6 m long, you will need four dowels (two at the edges and two in the middle at the same distance from each other).
- Walls are assembled from more even beams, material with a slight curvature is used for short sections in the places of door or window openings.
- To assemble the corners, a tenon-groove connection is used.
Properly assembled from glued or profiled timber, the house will last for decades, allowing you to enjoy warmth and comfort.
The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath
Organization of the workplace for the assembly of walls
In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on its two sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on pads of boards.
A workplace for marking and cutting beams is equipped next to the stack. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.
It is convenient to mark the beam using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low linings in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber with a chain saw.
The cut beam is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on the upper crown of the log house. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.
Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the timber safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.
It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar by a team of four people. You can work together, just work will go slower.
For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is constructed.
Three-tier scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1
— Rack extreme; 2
- l-shaped rack of the scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3
- flooring; 4
— Rack central; 5
- cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6
- bosses The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on g - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with the help of bosses, pos.6.
At the stage of erection of the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the construction of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.
It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from ladders - do not forget about it.
Marking bars for wall assembly
Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.
Before starting work, they draw a scheme for assembling the walls of the house, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.
An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:
Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT And FROM- longitudinal walls; D And B- transverse walls; E- an inner wall made of timber - a partition; 1
- joints of beams. At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of bars from 3 to 6 in length. m.
The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main timber of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.
The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.
To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are performed by making vertical cuts “to the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root spike (for more details, see below).
How to correctly and quickly mark spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of timber blanks?
The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is applied to the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.
It is more convenient, faster to mark and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part to be marked. I put a template on the beam and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.
For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored parts of the walls.
If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see the wall assembly diagram above).
Two templates (highlighted in bright yellow) for marking the timber of the longitudinal walls. 4
- a groove for a root spike; 5
- groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6
- sample; 7
- dobor bar. The picture above shows the pattern. for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall layout diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.
bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.
At first glance, the templates are the same, but they differ in that the grooves, pos.5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places of the templates.
The same templates are used to mark the details of the extensions. To do this, on patterns at points b And from through holes are drilled, and at points but And d incisions have been made.
To mark the extension, the template is applied to the timber and points are pricked through the holes and cuts on the surface of the workpiece.
Remember this technique with the device holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.
The templates are made from planed "inch" boards.
As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.
And now let's consider how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection “to the floor of the tree”. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatch) cut out with a chainsaw.
How to mark details with spikes? Obviously, the tongue and groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a detail with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.
If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with interventional insulation.
The profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.
How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths
Specifications (TU) for the manufacture of timber allow deviation of the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.
If the purchase documents indicate the standard dimensions of the timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.
Each bar, in a batch of timber brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.
Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.
How to assemble even walls if the timber is different in width and length?
b- the minimum width of the beam; delta b- the difference between narrow and wide beams. Obviously, from a beam of different widths, only one surface of the wall can be made even - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.
If they want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all the bars in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then inside the house, wide bars will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment on the outer edge leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the bars (see figure).
If the bars in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The wall outside is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the beam, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. The corner joints of the beams are more dense, "warm".
How and with what to connect the crowns of the log house
Each log crown is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. Nagels are located at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.
Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times the height of the timber.
cm., pos. one. Dowels made of round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), they simply hammer into the bars of the crowns with a hammer, an option a on the image.
The upper ends of the dowels of any material must be deepened into the beam by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the beam dries and the log shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the beam and raise the upper crown. A large gap is formed between the crowns.
For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged dowels from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the beams of the crowns from moving during the shrinkage of the log house, even if the dowel is deepened into the beam. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.
Small-diameter steel driven dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.
Steel pins with a diameter of 10 or more millimeters, as well as wooden pins, are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the bar. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.
With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the log house increases.
Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm it is convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made from hardwoods. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.
Can be cut from a regular "inch" board dowels of square section 25x25 mm. Chamfers are removed from one end of the workpiece. Such pins are hammered into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.
The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood are crushed during nailing, the wood is compacted, providing a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.
How to drill holes in a beam for dowels
The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free from chips.
To drill holes in a beam, deep enough and of large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.
To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with an emphasis, as shown in the figure.
The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps. The emphasis, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole of chips, grinds and then easily gets out of the deep hole.
It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the interventional insulation. But usually here a problem arises - the interventional gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the gasket material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.
You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the beam is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and interventional insulation is laid.
In places of drilling cut the lining with a sharp knife. Then, the removed beam is reinstalled in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with dowels.
Drilling holes in a beam laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.
How to make a flat wall from a curved beam
In the beam brought to the construction site, part of the beams may turn out to be curved. The beam may have curvature in one plane, or twist with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross section.
If possible, then it is better not to use curved bars for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other, less critical places.
A small amount of timber that has a curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam in the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten out under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten out, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.
The curved beam is laid into the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.
The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels A curved beam is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a straight beam. After laying the interventional insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and, unbending, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.
It does not take much effort to unbend the beam. To facilitate the work will help the lever and bracket
Mezhventsovy gasket - insulation, sealant
For and cold, a gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, moss or linen tow was used for this. Currently, special gasket materials based on flax or flax jute are commercially available. The material is sold as a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.
A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.
If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should stand 1-2 from the outer edge of the beam. cm. otherwise it will get wet.
Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and offer to caulk the joints after shrinking the log house, adding an additional amount of material to the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a lower consumption of gasket material.
The work of caulking joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the seal thicker, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need for caulking horizontal joints.
How to control the correct assembly of the log house
In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:
- Verticality of corners.
- Height of corners and walls.
- The horizontality of the crowns and the upper faces of the timber.
- The straightness of the walls.
- The quality of laying interventional insulation.
For control of the verticality of the corners apply the following method.
To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1
- bottom trim; 2
- crowns; 3
- control lines; 4
- plinth. On each side of the crown, at the same distance from the corner edge, draw a vertical line.
With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked by a plumb line.
If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.
The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.
Horizontal rims and top faces the timber is checked for level.
Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.
Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the beam in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.
The quality and thickness of the laying of interventional insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.
Window and door openings in a log house
From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.
Laying timber in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.
but
- layout of openings in the wall, where: 1
- wall; 2
- door opening; 3
- pier; 4
- window opening. in
- scheme for cutting timber, where c - the remainder of the cutting. G
- a variant of the opening device in the log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos.7. d
- an option with the installation of decks in the opening, pos.6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window. In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.
One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in a draft version, only preparation is made to create an opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after shrinkage of the log house.
This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Bars must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall with a log house, pos.7 in the figure. At least two such bars are installed in the doorway.
In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “take away” inward or outward. To prevent this the timber in the piers is fastened with vertically installed boards.
In another variant - d» in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (pigtails) are installed in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The spike of the wall beam enters the groove. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed from displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.
Decks (pigtails) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.
Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical pigtail with a rail - a spike, enters the groove of the wall beam; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and arranging plastic slopes and window sills, decks (pigtail) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. A vertical groove is cut out at the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the bars of the wall from displacement.
The length of the deck (pigtail) or rail should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
Timber for houses, baths in your city
How to install windows in a timber wall
If the opening in the wall was made in a draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with sawing the opening to the desired size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.
Proper installation of a window in a wall made of timber. 1
- wall; 2
- rail; 3
- platband; 4
- window; 5
- window box; 6
- wall beam above the window; 7
— mezhventsovy heater; 8
- shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9
- window frames; 10
- wall beam (wall); 11
- deck; 12
- nail. Then, with a circular saw, spikes are cut out at the ends of the bars of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos.10, a deck is placed with a groove, pos.11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails hammered at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.
A window box is inserted into the opening thus prepared, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos.8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.
The compensation gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.
Similarly, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.
After the assembly of the first floor of the house is completed, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) ceiling.
Can be a constructive element. And they can perform an independent function.
The next page describes the construction of a sloping roof of a house made of timber, where floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the mansard roof's load-bearing frame.
Watch the video clip, which describes in some detail and shows the technology for installing a log house from a construction beam.
One of the most popular services in the construction market today is the assembly of a log house. Using this technology, not only private houses are built, but also baths, as well as utility buildings. They are warm and attractive to look at.
If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated facade. But some prefer to leave the walls in their original form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from a profiled beam with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.
Main stages
When assembling a house, it is necessary to remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out according to the technology of mounting links of natural humidity. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if a material of natural moisture is used. The dried frame shrinks by about 9 cm.
The assembly is divided into several stages. At the first stage, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is erected. The main stage is the assembly of the frame. The final work is the manipulation of the roof. After shrinkage, external and internal work is carried out.
The most important first crown
The technology for assembling a house from profiled timber provides for paying special attention to the first crown. It is one of the weak spots. This node will form the outline of the house. It is closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which pulls into the water from the ground.
The first crown is screened, these works provide for its separation from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. As it usually acts as roofing material, laid on a layer of bituminous mastic. A lining 100 mm beam is located on top, this is exactly its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled timber. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and the wall material.
The lining beam should be made of larch, which is characterized by high resistance to decay. The material in this case must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from a profiled beam is delivered to the building site, you can start work. After erecting the foundation and laying the first crown, you can begin the installation of the lower crown, which is a beam with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be covered with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is laid on top. Its thickness should be 5 mm.
Floor beams must be cut into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown rots, there will be less problems with its replacement. The first two crowns are best made from larch.
The need for timber processing
Work on the assembly of houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by the processing of the material with antiseptics. At the same time, you should take into account that after construction you will have the opportunity to process only accessible sections of the walls.
Before laying the profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. This must be done before assembling the house. Senezh and Tikurilla can act as antiseptic compounds.
Carrying out warming
Having studied the instructions for assembling a house from a profiled beam, you will learn that compaction is an obligatory step. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of Finnish-type profiles involve laying a jute tape along the beam, in its central part. The main function of the jute sealant is to reduce the ventilation of the walls. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.
Using pins as a connection
Self-assembly of a house from profiled timber is accompanied by the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. Products have an elongated shape and have a round or square section. The basis may be:
- plastic;
- metal;
- wood.
If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then wooden dowels are better than others. Such fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that the material does not deform during drying, and cracks do not form between the crowns. The pin will work on the bend and will not allow the beam to bend.
If you decide to use dowels as fasteners, then you can use some tips that will simplify the work. No more than two bars should be connected to each other. Nagels are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The step between them should not be more than 1500 mm.
The dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically by 1.5 beams. The diameter of the holes can be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners. It is better if this parameter is the same. Nagel is hammered with a mallet and sunk into the timber. When assembling a house from a profiled beam, you must choose dowels, the length of which will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.
Assembly nuances: work instructions
By purchasing a ready-made kit for assembling a house, you can independently carry out its installation. In this case, each link will be in its place, glass slots are made in the products. It is necessary to carry out work according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and during installation it is necessary to follow the diagram.
In the process, you must take into account the grooves and tenons of each part. When laying with the profile, each rib must match. If the grooves and spikes are not very complex, then sealing material is laid between the links. This improves the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls.
When assembling a house from a profiled beam, it is important to ensure that the links are tightly connected to each other. If this rule is not observed, then the walls will rot. In the presence of products with spikes and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The bars will have bowl cuts that connect the links together into an even masonry. If cups are not available, you can cut them out with a mobile cup cutter.
Completion of construction
After shrinkage, you can proceed to rough and fine finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, entrance doors and windows are installed. Subfloor installation in progress. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then they do not need additional insulation and cladding. They will keep warm very well.
Whereas protective impregnation must be applied necessarily. This will keep the wood in excellent condition for many years. If you wish, then you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With the help of such a mixture, you can emphasize the structure of wood and give it a rich shade.
Features of insulation
After assembling a house from a profiled beam, you can also carry out insulation. This process usually involves:
- tow;
- glass wool boards;
- mineral wool;
- linen cloth.
Glass wool is laid with a foil vapor barrier layer. This will contribute to the reflection of heat inside the premises. The presence of vapor insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture, which steals heat.
It is better not to use expanded polystyrene as thermal insulation, as it will exclude the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which will eventually cause it to rot. For the same reasons, it is not worth isolating the walls with roofing material, as well as with glassine, as well as with plastic wrap. It is better to use a membrane vapor-permeable material.
Finally
Assembling a house from profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered. You will have to carry out the installation of the walls, guided by the principle of the Lego constructor. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, then the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, drywall, hardboard or lining is usually used.
When constructing a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated board or ondulin. Metal roofing is perfect. Insulation in this case begins with the attic floor. Then the masters go to the roof.
Houses made of profiled timber are cozy and reliable. They have proven their worth many years ago. A lot of time has passed, and the advantages of wooden houses are only increasing. Nowadays, such houses are being built quite quickly, because they are assembled like a children's designer. This is also facilitated by the presence of special fasteners and the availability of materials. In this article, we will look at how you can build a house from a profiled beam on your own.
Features of profiled timber
Profiled timber is a building material that is extracted from coniferous trees, such as pine, cedar, spruce, larch. If you look closely at the material, you will notice that the inside is flat and planed, and the outside is semi-oval, or it can also be even. On the sides there is a special groove and spike, which allow you to quickly and efficiently fasten the timber together. The main advantage of profiled timber is environmental friendliness, since it is made without the use of glue.
Also, the material is very warm and relatively inexpensive. These moments bribe many people. As mentioned above, profiled timber is quite easy and quick to assemble, which is good news for DIY enthusiasts. But do not forget that profiled timber is a tree on which pores remain. Over time, mold, fungi, etc. can grow there. Therefore, it is always necessary to treat wood with special protective compounds.
The profiled timber has practically no cracks, but if they appear, they can expand over time. It is very important to ensure that the cracks do not turn into through. Also remember that all wooden houses do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you should carefully monitor the roof and not delay its repair. If your house will be periodically exposed to cold weather, additional insulation should be done.
The beginning of the construction of a house from a bar
It is very important to draw up a project of a house from a profiled beam. When you make a plan, carefully and accurately do all the calculations, as this will play a very important role in the purchase of material. You can draw a project of the future house yourself, or you can contact a construction company. Before you start preparing for construction, you should understand that the best time to build is winter.
If you plan to harvest wood yourself, it is better to do it in the cold season and dry it at home for a long time. In this case, the beam will shrink evenly and calmly. But do not go to extremes - in severe frosts it is better to refuse such work, since the tree can become very fragile.
When harvesting the material yourself, you must take into account all factors and choose a healthy tree without cracks. After that, you need to cut the logs evenly and treat them with a special antiseptic. You can purchase ready-made material, which will be trimmed to your requirements. Also, grooves will be cut there, and you just have to lay out the house from the profiled timber with your own hands, like a designer.
Building a foundation for a house
Before you decide on the type of foundation you need, study the geological conditions. To do this, you should find out the groundwater index, the composition of the soil, look at the foundation structures of already built houses in this area. Strip foundations are often laid for houses made of concrete, brick or cinder blocks. The process of building such foundations is quite simple, but it is characterized by high material consumption and labor intensity.
For wooden buildings made of timber, a columnar, pile or shallowly buried strip foundation is ideal. Let's look at the scheme for constructing a shallowly buried strip foundation. It all starts with markup. Accuracy is very important in this process. Mark the outer and inner corners of the building with pegs. After that, you need to combine them with a cord to give volume. Thus, you will understand how the foundation should look like.
After that, you can start digging a hole, the depth of which should not exceed 60 centimeters. But making too little depth is also not worth it, because we are building a house from profiled timber and do not want to reduce the strength of the structure with our rash actions. Two bayonets of a shovel will be enough. In this case, you should not deviate from the initial markup by more than 20 centimeters. After that, you need to put a crushed stone pillow. The bottom of the trench as part of this procedure is covered with a layer of sand (or dense soil) of 10 centimeters and a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness.
You can make the formwork yourself or order it. Homemade formwork is made of wood, in which there are no cracks and seams. When ordering, it is better to choose steel or plastic formwork. You must install the formwork into the trench and center it. To increase strength, it makes sense to use reinforcement - parallel rods with jumpers. The diameter of the reinforcement must be at least 1 centimeter.
It is advisable to use a frame and at least 2 reinforcement belts. When welding, they should not be placed closer than 3 centimeters. The rods should fit freely into the trench, but not be closer than 5 centimeters. After that, you can moisten the formwork with water and start pouring concrete. If you are using wood formwork, dampen it as much as possible so that the wood does not absorb moisture from the solution. The formwork is removed immediately after the mortar has dried.
For insulation, you can use slabs of extruded polystyrene foam 5 centimeters each, and at the corners of the foundation - 8 centimeters each. When the sides of the foundation of the house from the profiled timber are pitched, crushed stone is poured into the place of the formwork. This is necessary for waterproofing. The upper part of the foundation can be isolated using roofing material. Then it is imperative to backfill, for which you can use the previously withdrawn soil.
Base and floor installation
The construction of any house begins with the creation of a row, which is laid on a processed and leveled waterproofing foundation. It is worth noting that for external walls it is necessary to use a beam with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters, and for the floor and internal walls - 100 by 50 millimeters. When the first row is laid, it should be treated with an antiseptic for good strengthening. After that, it is necessary to mount the floor logs, which it is desirable to lay on the edge.
Logs can be installed on the foundation of the house and attached to the walls of the log house, as shown in the video about houses from profiled timber. They must be put in the room and left there for several days to get used to the temperature. Two logs should be placed on opposite walls and nylon threads should be pulled between them, every one and a half meters. These threads will serve as a guideline by which you can make the rest of the logs. Gaps and voids will form between the lags, which should be filled with insulation. As insulation, you can choose sawdust, polystyrene foam, isolon, mineral wool and polystyrene foam.
If you will lay logs from boards 30 - 40 centimeters thick, then the distance between them should be 80 centimeters. If the thickness of the floor boards is less, the distance should be 50 - 60 centimeters, and for too thick boards - about 1 meter. Using wedges made of thin plywood or wood, you can adjust the height of the log. You can secure the wedges with self-tapping screws or long nails. Logs are fixed with anchors or dowels. After that, you can proceed to the installation and strengthening of the boards.
One and a half centimeters should be retreated from the wall and the first row of boards should be strengthened along a stretched line. For self-tapping screws, holes should be drilled. It is necessary to lay a board on each log and strengthen it. If gaps remain between the wall and the floor, they can be covered with a plinth or brackets, which should be connected to the board and fastened with nails. The draft floor is covered with thermal insulation on both sides. For him, boards with a section of 25 by 150 millimeters are suitable.
The floor can be laid with or without displacement, judging by the photo of houses made of profiled timber. First you must lay the first layer and lay the wood flooring on top of it. Remember the waterproofing that lies on the rough base of the future floor. For these purposes, you can use penofol or dense polyethylene. At the last stage, the floor should be covered with any material. For this, a grooved board with a thickness of 28 or 36 millimeters is perfect.
Construction of walls from profiled timber
To build the walls of a timber house, it is necessary to lay out alternate rows of timber. Each subsequent row is fastened together with dowels (pins for vertical connection), which does not allow the beam to move or twist. Pins can be made of metal or wood. It is advisable to use the same tree from which the house is built. It is known that metal pins are more reliable, but they are more expensive than wooden ones, and the cost of a house made of profiled timber will increase in this case.
How are pins installed? This happens according to the brickwork method, through two or three rows through one. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which is 3 - 4 centimeters. Pins will be easily inserted into these holes. The distance between the pins should be one and a half meters. Between the rows of timber, do not forget to lay a sealant for insulation. Where external walls are connected, it is desirable to use the "warm corner" method.
In one beam, a protrusion of the required size should be cut out, and in the other, a groove with similar parameters should be cut out. Some layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. This will greatly strengthen the structure, and the corners will not be blown. If you are building a house of one and a half floors, the walls of the second floor must be raised by approximately 1200-1500 millimeters, it depends on the steepness. Partitions must be included in the main walls of the floor. For them, you can use a bar with a section of 100 by 150 millimeters. The installation of partitions is done only after the creation of the log house.
If the dimensions of the house are larger than 6 by 6 meters, there should be at least one partition wall on the first floor, which will provide additional support for the floor on the second floor. If you want to reduce the price of a house made of profiled timber, the internal walls can be made of frame. To do this, you need to create a frame of bars with a section of 50 to 50, sheathe it with clapboard or other material. In order for a wooden house to be fire resistant, all its details must be treated with a flame retardant. You can apply it to the walls with a spray gun or a paint brush.
And the last point that should be understood when building walls: pay due attention to the creation of window openings. In places where windows are installed, it is necessary to cut technological openings through which air will move during the drying of the material. When the house finally sits down, you can carry out the installation of windows. Window blocks for a structure made of profiled timber can be metal-plastic or wooden.
Warming and decoration of the house
If the thermal insulation of a wooden house is of high quality, you can reduce the cost of heating it. Wall insulation will significantly reduce your heating costs, regardless of fuel. The exterior finish of the house significantly increases thermal insulation by reducing the moisture content of the timber. It isolates it from various atmospheric precipitation. The most popular types of finishes are lining and siding, but it is better not to use siding for a wooden house.
You can use mineral wool, glass wool slabs, tow or flax jute. Glass wool slabs must be laid with foil vapor barrier material. This approach will help to reflect heat into the room, and the vapor barrier will reduce the evaporation of moisture, which, as you know, steals heat.
It is worth noting that for insulation, according to the technology of houses made of profiled timber, it is better not to use expanded polystyrene, since it will not allow the moisture of the tree to evaporate completely and will cause the wood to rot. For the same reasons, you should not isolate the walls with roofing felt, plastic wrap or glassine. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.
Inside, it is also desirable to trim the profiled timber, as this will give you additional thermal insulation. Interior decoration can be made of lining, hardboard or drywall. Remember that the insulation should resemble a layer cake. Each layer should be a protection against heat loss and prevent the penetration of cold and moisture. If you plan to spend time in the house only in the summer, you can not warm it.
Roof for a house made of profiled timber
To cover the roof, you can use ondulin, corrugated board, roofing material, metal tiles. Remember that insulation should start from the last or attic floor, and then move on to the roof itself. In accordance with the structure of the future roof, it is necessary to install ceiling beams, rafters and crates. When the walls are built, ceiling joists should be laid, which should protrude 50 centimeters beyond the base of the wall. Logs are made of a bar with a section of 150 by 100 millimeters. They must be laid out on edge at a distance of approximately 90 centimeters from each other.
After that, you should assemble the rafter system from boards with a section of 50 by 150 millimeters. This design is the skeleton of the roof, so it needs to be strongly strengthened with the help of racks, crossbars and braces. Rafters should be mounted in increments of no more than one centimeter. When the frame is ready, you can start laying out the fronts, which can be made from siding or timber with a section of 150 by 150 millimeters. At the last stage, a crate with a section of 25 by 150 millimeters should be nailed to the rafters.
It should be noted that the pitch of the crate should not be more than 400 millimeters. To prevent the accumulation of condensate, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier using a layer of waterproofing. If you used slate as a roof covering, and the attic is blown through, you can refuse waterproofing during the construction of a house from profiled timber.
When choosing a coating material, it is necessary to pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations, since for different types of coatings they can vary significantly. When installing, it is very important to adhere to the specified fastening techniques. Otherwise, the integrity of the roof may be compromised. If you strictly follow the principle of laying the selected material, you can easily build the roof of the house yourself.
Building a house from a bar is perhaps the easiest way to build a house with your own hands. You do not need to have special skills for this, and if you know how to use a chainsaw, then you can easily cope with this job. It will turn out to assemble the house, like a designer with whom you played as a child. For this, special fasteners are provided along the edges of the material. You will also need a solid foundation and a reliable roof! We hope that this article will help you understand the construction technology and build a reliable and beautiful house from profiled timber!
Profiled timber has deservedly become one of the most popular materials for the construction of low-rise wooden buildings. But this does not relieve him of the shortcomings inherent in all other building materials from solid wood. That is why when using profiled timber, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology of its laying. In this article, we will try to fully disclose the issues that may arise when assembling a house from profiled timber.
The sequence of laying profiled timber
We will assume that the foundation for the house has already been erected and managed to gain the necessary strength. Given the relatively small mass of profiled timber and a house built from it, it is advisable to opt for economical options for the base: a shallow tape or a bored foundation.
The first crown is the most important
One of the most vulnerable places of a wooden house is the first, lowest, crown (one row of beams that form the outline of the house). The reason is simple: it is closest to the surface of the earth. Moreover, it is in direct contact with the foundation, which “pulls” water well. Therefore, for starters, it is necessary to shield the first crown from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. This can be a layer of bituminous mastic applied to the base, two layers of roofing material, etc. A lining beam with a thickness of 100 mm and a width not less than the width of a profiled beam is laid on the waterproofing - another intermediate link between the wall material and the foundation. It is best if the lining beam is made of larch, which is distinguished by good resistance to decay. But even in this case, the material will have to be treated with antiseptic preparations. The construction of a house from profiled timber has begun.
Next, the lower crown is laid, which is a beam with one (upper) profiled side. All horizontal planes are treated with an antiseptic, after the composition has dried, a layer of jute sealant (5 mm thick) is laid on them. Floor beams can crash into the first crown, but it is better if they rely on the foundation grillage: if the lower crown rots, there will be less problems with its replacement. It is preferable if the first 2 crowns are made of larch.
About the treatment of timber with antiseptics
Considering that after assembling the house you will have the opportunity to process only accessible parts of the walls, protection of all other surfaces must be carried out until the profiled timber is laid. It is advisable to do this before the immediate assembly of the house. Tikkurila, Senezh, etc. can be used as antiseptic compounds.
Seal for insulation
Ideally, the use of jute is necessary only for the corner joints of profiled timber - the most vulnerable places in the house. But some types of profile, for example, Finnish, initially involve laying a jute tape along the entire beam in its middle part. The main purpose of the jute sealant is to reduce the ventilation of the walls. Usually a layer of 5 mm is sufficient.
Connection with dowels
Nagel - a pin, a spike that serves to fasten elements of a wooden structure. It is an oblong fastener with a square or round section. It can be wooden (when assembling a house from a profiled beam, it is better to use this one), metal or plastic. Fastening with dowels is used in cases where the moisture content of the timber exceeds 20%. This is done so that when it dries, the beam does not turn out, and cracks do not form between the crowns - the dowel works on bending and prevents the beam from bending.
- only two beams are connected to each other - no more;
- pins alternate in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them should not exceed 1500 mm (see diagram below);
- pins should be approximately the same humidity as the beam;
- from the previous paragraph it is obvious that it is better if these are wooden products;
- holes for them are drilled vertically, by 1.5 beams;
- the diameter of the holes may exceed the diameter of the fastener by a maximum of 1 mm. It is better if it is the same (the dowel is driven with a wooden mallet, recessed into the timber);
- the length of the pins should be less than the length of the hole by 20-30 mm (shrinkage compensation)
And remember, according to the technology of laying profiled timber, nails cannot be used!
Preparing for the shrinkage period
Door and window openings are either cut out in the walls, or they are provided in advance (house kit). Window blocks are installed at the required level, and door blocks are installed on the first crown. The blocks are fastened along the entire end of the opening, a gap of at least 50 mm is left above the box, which compensates for the subsequent shrinkage of the house.
If it so happened that a profiled beam of natural humidity was used, then after the construction of the log house, a temporary roof is erected to protect it from precipitation. The building is left alone for a period of 6 to 12 months - until the timber dries out and the house shrinks. Only after that you can start finishing work.
About shrinkage of a house from profiled timber
On the Internet, you can find information that profiled timber, for example, of natural moisture, is characterized by 4, 5, 6% shrinkage. But in order to be ready for a real change in the geometric dimensions of the timber, it is worth familiarizing yourself with GOST 6782.1-75 “Softwood lumber. The amount of shrinkage. We will leave the information presented there without comment. We only note that the amount of shrinkage directly depends on the difference between the values of the initial and final moisture content of the profiled beam.
You have probably heard more than once that the best time to assemble a house from a profiled timber of natural humidity is winter. And the point is not so much that the winter wood is somehow special: before the summer, the log house will be able to partially dry out in milder conditions than if the construction took place in a hot season. Uniform drying is the main antidote to severe deformations in the bar.
A few words about projects, etc.
If you ordered a house-constructor made according to the project, then the latter should contain a section with design documentation, which indicates the sequence of all work on assembling a house from a profiled beam. It remains only to call a couple of friends for help and you will be able to assemble the log house yourself. And for those guys who ordered building materials with moldings, it remains only to wish good luck: such a saving of your nerves is not worth it!