1. Top cover
2. Ceiling
For any building, high-quality ceiling installation is very important. Ceiling- this is the first and important barrier on the way internal heat. Because warm air accumulates at the top, it is obvious that the leaky ceiling is the main source of heat loss. This is especially pronounced at elevated bath temperatures.
The ceiling height in my bathhouse is 2.2m. However, to organize a steam room “according to all the rules,” I would advise making the ceiling height 2.5 m.
On top draft ceiling Counter strips are nailed exactly under the matrices - boards 10 cm wide and 20-25 mm thick, on top of which they are mounted finished ceiling from clapboard or something similar. The finished ceiling boards are laid parallel to the rough ceiling. The lining material is any, including coniferous. Rumors that spruce or pine boards in the bathhouse they bleed resin, greatly exaggerated- a droplet will appear somewhere, so it’s easy to remove it. Do not forget that pine is a strong energy donor and, therefore, this material is the most preferable for a bathhouse.
In the steam room, the ceiling is made in exactly the same way, only the rough ceiling can be made from thicker boards (40-60mm thick).
It is not allowed to use plywood, fiberboard, chipboard for ceiling lining, since these materials are made using adhesives based on formaldehyde and phenol, which are toxic carcinogenic substances.
Please note: in Germany, Finland, and Sweden the use of these materials in residential construction is prohibited.
3. Vapor barrier
The main task vapor barriers do not allow warm, humid air to penetrate into the insulation, otherwise moisture from the air will condense inside the insulation, the insulation will get wet and lose its insulating properties.
4. Insulation.
In Belarusian villages the following insulation materials were also used:
1. Backfilling (laying) with dry maple leaves in a layer of 10 - 15 cm, on top of which a layer of soil 5 cm thick was poured. No vapor barrier was made under this backfill, since the leaves are laid horizontally and cope with this task well on their own.
2. Liquid clay is mixed with sawdust in the following proportions: clay - 1 part, sawdust - 3 parts. Clay is a good natural antiseptic and does not allow sawdust to rot or mold. The disadvantage of this method is that a layer of such insulation 10 - 15 cm thick takes several months to dry.
3. Kostra - a product of flax processing - is very effective insulation, however, is highly flammable and combustible. To reduce the fire hazard, 3 parts of fires were mixed with 1 part of soil and laid in a layer of 10 - 15 cm.
You shouldn’t stick out your lip contemptuously - these cheap old-fashioned methods can give a head start to many newfangled expensive insulation materials in terms of thermal insulation properties. And in terms of environmental friendliness, it is generally unrivaled!
I would especially like to dwell on the inadmissibility of using insulating materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and polyurethane foam in a bathhouse.
All these substances emit formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic substances. When heated, the rate of release increases, and at temperatures above 60°C, destruction processes begin to develop in them with a change in volume and intense release of toxic substances.
Since in a bathhouse the speed of a person’s metabolic processes increases sharply, all these poisons are successfully absorbed by the body through the skin and Airways, which over time leads to a whole bunch of diseases, including cancer. Styrene is especially dangerous for the female body.
I will quote excerpts from an article by Evgeniy Shirokov, Ph.D. tech. Sciences, Chairman of the Board of the Belarusian Branch of the International Academy of Ecology.
Architect Dmitry Tikhashin (Belarus): “Everything new is a well-forgotten old... In the early 1980s, the Dalstroyproekt Institute (Magadan), of which I was an employee at that time, developed and implemented a structural system in the Severovostokzoloto Department prefabricated buildings and structures in remote areas of the extreme northeast of the USSR (Magadan region, Kamchatka).
The system was based on the lungs aluminum panels with “filling” - expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 200 - 250 mm. The helicopter transported up to 300 m³ of enclosing structures per flight, the load on the permafrost is minimal - the foundations are lightweight, the heat transfer resistance is sufficient...
For those hard to reach northern regions - perfect option. Many buildings were built: production workshops, gold processing factories, service houses and a series of two-story residential buildings - in the village of Bilibino, in Chukotka, and in other places...
However, 5 years later, the USSR Ministry of Health, after inspections and studies that were closed, decided to ban further construction and living in such houses. The reason for checking and making a decision was numerous facts of unsuccessful pregnancy in the houses of this series. Then it was officially believed that formaldehyde and other emissions from polystyrene foam, their high concentration in residential premises, were probably to blame for this.
The story is similar with the well-known “beams” at BAM - the dream of the newlyweds - the builders of the legendary highway. Many still remember well these metal “barrels”, insulated with polystyrene foam from the inside. About the same design diagram, the same consequences for pregnant women (the families were young, and they were settled first), and the same result - a ban on production 5 years after large-scale implementation, despite the presentation of high state awards to the developers. Interestingly, the residents of these houses did not feel any odors or discomfort.”
So, men, if you want to have healthy children and grandchildren, then draw your own conclusions...
Calculation of insulation thickness.
At calculating the thickness of insulation We will be guided by the following SNiP:
SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”.
SNiP 23-01-99 “Building climatology”
SNiP II-3-79 “Construction heating engineering”.
These documents are easy to find in the public domain on the RuNet. Just type their name in the search window. I advise you to download them, as they will be needed for calculations.
Calculation procedure:
1. According to Table 1 “Climatic parameters of the cold period of the year” SNiP 23-01-99 “Building climatology”
We determine Dd - Degree-day of the heating period, °C day using the formula
Dd=Noheat (Internal - External)
Where,
Тint - the calculated average temperature of the internal air of the building, equal to 21°C.
Тexternal - average outside air temperature during the heating period (column 12 of Table 1)
Notopit - duration, days, of the heating period, taken for a period with an average daily outside air temperature of no more than 8 °C.
(column 11 of Table 1)
Determine Dd - degree-day of the heating period in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo region. RF.
Using Table 1 of SNiP 23-01-99 “Building Climatology” we determine the necessary parameters for the city of Ivanovo.
Noheats = 219 days;
Text = -3.9°C;
Then,
2. According to Table 4 “Normalized values of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures” SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings” we determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq, m °C/W, substituting the resulting value Dd into the appropriate column and column;
Determine the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Rreq in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo region. RF.
According to Table 4 “Normalized values of heat transfer resistance of enclosing structures” SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”
In column 2 - “Public, except for those indicated above, administrative and domestic, industrial and other buildings and premises with damp or wet conditions”,
in column 5 - “Attic floors, over unheated crawl spaces and basements”,
We find the normalized value of heat transfer resistance Ro for the value Dd closest to the obtained Dd = 5453°C day.
In our case, this is 6000°C day.
For this value, Rreq = 3.4 m °C/W;
Rreq = 3.4 m °C/W;
3. Determine the thickness of the insulation:
Where,
R - heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer, m °C/W;
λ - Thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected insulation, W/(m °C), which is determined according to SNiP II-3-79 “Building Heat Engineering” Appendix 3 “Thermal Indicators” building materials and designs"
R=Rreq-R1-R2-...-Rn
Where,
Rreq - normalized value of heat transfer resistance, m °C/W
R1,R2,...,Rn - heat transfer resistance of layers of all structures (except for the insulation layer), which are located between the indoor air and the outdoor air, m °C/W.
Where,
This could be: finished ceiling, rough ceiling, attic floor, roof materials.
Tn - thickness of the structure, m;
λn is the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material from which this structure is made, W/(m °C).
Determined according to SNiP II-3-79 “Building heating engineering” Appendix 3 “Thermal technical indicators of building materials and structures”
Determine the thickness of basalt wool insulation in the attic of a bathhouse in the village of Babenki, Ivanovo region. RF.
The following structures are located between the indoor air and the outside air (with the exception of the insulation layer):
Finish ceiling made of pine (lining), thickness 1.5 cm;
Rough ceiling made of spruce (board), thickness 3cm;
The attic floor is made of pine (board), thickness 3cm;
Rough roof decking made of spruce (board), thickness 2.5 cm;
Slate, thickness 0.6cm;
λ pine=0.18 W/(m °C)
λ spruce = 0.18 W/(m °C)
λ slate =0.35W/(m °C)
λ bazvata =0.06 W/(m °C).
R=Rreq - Rfinished ceiling - Rrough ceiling - Rattic floor - Rrough flooring - Rslate=
3.4 - 0.015/0.18 - 0.03/0.18 - 0.03/0.18 - 0.025/0.18 - 0.006/0.35 = 2.68m °C/W;
The thickness of the insulation is:
T=R·λ=2.68 0.06= 0.16m;
The minimum thickness of basalt wool insulation is 16 centimeters.
5.Attic space
Attic space- a convenient and necessary part of the building. If the roof slope is 35 - 45 degrees, then in the attic you can make a spacious room with a ceiling height of 2.0 - 2.2 m. This room can be used as a rest room, as a room for storing brooms, or as a room for feasts, etc.
If we are going to make a room in the attic (uninsulated attic), then we need to lay a floor in the attic.
We lay a finished floor on the subfloor made of any material that suits your taste and financial capabilities.
For example:
Batten
Moisture-resistant laminate
Parquet
And others...
When laying the floor, ventilation gaps of 2 - 2.5 cm between the walls and the finished floor are also required.
6. Hatch to the attic
This design provides reliable thermal insulation.
One of the most crucial moments in the construction of a bathhouse is the creation of a ceiling. Not only the comfort in a given room, but also the service life of the entire building will depend on how correctly and efficiently you do it.
To create a ceiling, necessary correctly, such an indicator as the height of the room is also important. Despite the fact that to build a ceiling in a bathhouse you need to have certain knowledge and skills, anyone can do this work with their own hands House master.
The peculiarity of the washing room and rest room in the bathhouse is that although in these rooms there are high humidity, But air temperature is low, compared to a steam room, therefore, for finishing the ceiling, one of the best options is plastic lining.
The main advantages of plastic lining:
- such panels do not require additional processing antiseptics;
- they have the correct geometric shape;
- light weight;
- There are various color solutions;
- after installing such a lining, there is no need to periodically paint it, as is the case with wooden materials;
- do not rot;
- low cost, which allows you to significantly save money.
If plastic panels are used, they installation is the final stage of finishing work.
In the washing room, water gets on both the walls and the ceiling; plastic panels, due to their tight fit to each other, reliably protect against moisture.Installation of plastic lining on the ceiling of a washing room carried out after the installation and draft ceiling, in the following sequence:
When using glossy panels, please note that they are very easily damaged, so protective film they must be removed at the very last moment.
To prevent plastic panels from sagging, the distance between the beams or laths of the sheathing should be no more than 60 cm.
Typically the panels are 6 meters long, which makes transporting them much more difficult. Experts recommend immediately deciding on the required length and cutting the panels in the store.
For the washing room and for the rest room in the bathhouse, it is better to choose seamless panels, since if there is a decorative seam, moisture and dirt will accumulate in it, which will spoil the appearance of the ceiling.
Caring for this coating is very simple, but it is best to use gentle detergents. It is recommended to choose a calm color for the panels, this will allow you to better relax and unwind; it is better not to use contrasting solutions in the bathhouse.
Plastic panels have good thermal insulation characteristics, since they have a cellular structure; in addition, a large number of partitions makes them quite durable.
Since plastic does not allow steam to pass through, It is necessary to ensure good ventilation in the room so that the ceiling and walls can dry properly.
Ceiling installation in the steam room
The steam room is the smallest room in the bathhouse, but due to the fact that it has high temperature and humidity, the requirements for the ceiling will be high. Making mistakes when creating a ceiling in a steam room not only reduces the comfort of visiting the bathhouse, but can also lead to rapid damage to the building and you will have to make repairs.
Selection of cladding material
For covering the ceiling in the steam room wooden paneling is used. Usually the one made from coniferous species is not used, since when heated, resin can be released from it, so they use panels made of alder, aspen, linden, but oak or ash are best suited.
Instead of lining you can use tongue and groove boards, since there is practically no difference between them. But still, it is better to use lining, which has a non-linear surface, and during its drying, cracks will not form on the ceiling, as when using boards.
The width of the lining should be 9-10 cm; if the planks are narrower, it will take longer to install them, and if they are wider, they will warp and crack more.
If there is a subfloor in the attic, then lining can be taken with a thickness of 12 mm or more, if it is not there, then its thickness should be from 18 mm. To create a flat ceiling, you need to take 25 mm thick lining, since it will be subject to a large load. 
The differences between regular lining and euro lining are that the latter has longitudinal grooves on the inside to improve ventilation, and its surface is smoother, so if funds allow, then It’s better to buy eurolining for the ceiling in the bathhouse.
Since the cost of eurolining is higher, then the geometry of the slats must be strictly observed, there should be no knots on the panels; you need to pay attention to this when purchasing it.
It’s good when you have the opportunity in the warehouse to check whether the lining has moved; to do this, you need to join two planks; if this happens freely and without gaps, then everything is fine.
Installation
There are three types of ceilings: floor, panel, hemmed. 
Let's look at how to make a hemming method from a log house:
- Floor beams are treated with a protective compound.
- Taking into account the location of the heater stove, a metal passage box is mounted between the beams for chimney.
- Attach foil or hydro-vapor barrier membrane to the underside of the beams using construction stapler, leaving 30 cm overlap on walls, the foil is glued together with aluminum tape.
- If the distance between the beams is large, then additional make lathing and then install the clapboard on it, the sheathing is made with 20 by 40 mm timber with a pitch of 400 mm.
- Carry out installation of lining, fastened with self-tapping screws or nails, but clamps can also be used. When using nails, they can be driven into the face, into a tenon or groove. In the first case, the caps will be visible, and in the second and third cases the fastening will be invisible.
- From the attic between the joists(mineral stone wool, expanded clay or clay with straw)
- We cover the insulation with a hydro-barrier(diffuse membrane), it will protect the insulation from moisture from above and freely release water vapor from the bottom.
- We lay the attic floor boards.
When fixing the planks through the front part, the caps are visible, but the fastening is reliable, the fixation through a tenon or groove is invisible, but a small part of the board is captured, so when the lining expands, there is a possibility that it will be turned out or torn off.
When fastened with nails, there is a possibility that the panel may burst, which is especially unpleasant when expensive material is used. To avoid this, it is recommended to first drill a hole and then fix the strip with nails, although this takes longer, the material does not crack.
For fixing into the surface, finishing nails are used, since they have a small head. The fastening points are covered with putty, to which wood dust is added, and after it dries, this place is sanded.
Required Tools
To finish the ceiling in the bathhouse, you will need the following tools and materials:
- lining, which can be plastic or wooden;
- vapor barrier;
- insulation;
- waterproofing;
- stapler;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- doboynik,
- mallet;
- wooden block;
- building level.
How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling?
The location of the pipe passing through the ceiling must be determined during design. When marking the hole, it must be taken into account that it corresponds to the vertical axis of the pipe. There should be at least 130 mm from the edge of the pipe and ceiling beams.
The gap that exists between the chimney and the ceiling must be insulated, For this you can use asbestos, basalt wool or fiberglass.
The thickness of this layer should be not less than 50 mm To prevent the insulation from falling, the hole around the pipe from below is hemmed with a sheet of stainless metal.
It is not recommended to hem the hole around the pipe with galvanized iron, since when it is heated, harmful substances will be released.
If you are finishing the ceiling in a steam room, washing department and the rest room with your own hands and you are doing this for the first time, then to get a good result, The following expert advice should be taken into account:
- all finishing work in the bathhouse must begin with the floor, then the ceiling is made and only then the walls are sheathed;
- when creating a false ceiling, the attic space can be used for storing and drying brooms, but for this, provide a hatch and a retractable ladder;
- when installing the first panel of the lining, you must be very careful, since the installation of all other elements depends on this;
- in order not to damage the panels, you need to use a mallet and a wooden block, which will help to evenly distribute the created shock load;
- if the distance between the beams is up to 60 cm, then you can attach the lining directly to them, in other cases you will have to make lathing.
Conclusion
In the bathhouse the ceiling is the most vulnerable spot, since the maximum amount of heat escapes through it. To prevent this, it is necessary to correctly for the steam room it is wooden, and for the washing room and rest room it is plastic lining.
All installation work are carried out carefully and carefully, then you can independently carry out high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling and make it beautiful, safe and durable.
Useful video
Installation of lining in a steam room, video:
In contact with
To the one who starts self-construction baths on your site, you will have to take into account great amount specific nuances of this building. All of them, to a large extent, are associated with the peculiarities of operation - frequent temperature changes with a very large amplitude, and high level humidity. Thus, all bathhouse designs buildings must have operational qualities, which make them able to withstand such extreme influences.
DIY bathhouse ceiling
The bath ceiling is no exception. Moreover, the influence of humidity on it is especially critical, since hot air and steam always tend to the top, and usually the highest temperatures and humidity levels are observed in the ceiling area of the steam room or washing room. For those new to construction who decided to make a bathhouse ceiling with their own hands step by step guide simply necessary. It is these issues that this publication is devoted to.
There are several basic ceiling designs for a bath - all of them will be discussed below. But no matter which one is chosen as the base one, they all must meet certain requirements:
- Any ceiling is a fairly massive structure, especially if the attic of the bathhouse is planned to be used as a utility room, utility room, or even as an additional utility room. areas - attics. Thus, the ceiling design must be highly reliable in terms of resistance to mechanical loads. Even if the attic will not be used for moving people or placing certain objects, the ceiling must still withstand both its own weight and the load of the insulating layer - this is a key rule for the safe operation of any room in general.
One of the key requirements is reliable thermal insulation
- Bath procedures will only bring health benefits if an appropriate microclimate is created in the premises. The ceiling is the structural element of any building through which very large heat loss is always possible. So that you don’t have to spend an incredible amount of fuel to maintain desired temperature, while mostly “heating the street”, it is necessary to provide the ceiling with the most reliable thermal insulation.
- Materials used for ceiling structure, should not be afraid of dampness and elevated temperatures. What to do? After all, for this in the overwhelming majority of cases it is used natural wood? There are solutions to this problem - the use of certain species of wood and special processing parts with compositions that dramatically increase the resistance of the material to moisture and biological decomposition processes.
By the way, many of the modern impregnations provide another useful result. They contain special flame retardant additives, which significantly increase the resistance of wood to fire - this is extremely important for a bathhouse.
- One of the main “enemies” of wood is high humidity, and in a bathhouse you can’t live without it. To protect wood as much as possible load-bearing elements structures from moisture penetration, reliable hydro- and vapor barrier will be required. At the same time, condensation should not be allowed to accumulate in the thickness of the wood or insulation material. This means that it is necessary to provide for the possibility of free release of water vapor upward into the atmosphere.
The water vapor barrier is shown at the top, and the diffuse membrane at the bottom.
Prices for water vapor barrier
water vapor barrier
This is ensured by the use of special roll coverings, membranes, and each layer must be located strictly in a certain place, otherwise the desired effect cannot be achieved.
- And finally, it will be a pleasure to spend time in the bathhouse if the ceiling is also beautiful. Perhaps some home craftsmen classify this requirement as an excess, but still the decorative qualities of the walls and ceiling covering baths are a kind of “calling card” of the owners, and finishing issues should not be discounted either.
Now let's move on to consider the main structures of the bath ceiling - hemmed, floor and panel type.
false ceiling
This design is used most often. It is quite simple, understandable, meets all requirements, allows you to use the attic as usable area.
The basis for the installation of such a ceiling system is the attic floor beams. All other details, both above and below, are based precisely on them. The convenience of the design is that there are no restrictions on the length and width of the room. It is assumed that the floor beams are installed according to the developed project, with the required beam cross-section (or log diameter) and with the required pitch. Thus, it is possible to completely transform the ceiling into a full-fledged interfloor covering, opening up opportunities for useful use of the attic.
A suspended ceiling can be schematically represented as follows:
1 – main walls of the bathhouse. It is clear that it is most often used natural wood, and in this diagram a monolithic wall is shown only for simplicity.
2 – attic floor beams. Before installing the ceiling, they must be firmly fixed to the walls with insulation of the joints adjacent to them.
3 – ceiling lining boards. In this option, shown in the diagram, they simultaneously play the role of the finishing surface of the ceiling, although this is not always the case.
4 – layer of water vapor barrier. It is optimal if a special water vapor proof membrane. It’s even better if it has a foil layer facing downwards - this is an additional barrier to moisture and a reflective surface that prevents heat loss.
5 – a layer of thermal insulation materials laid between the floor beams.
6 – vapor permeable a membrane that does not allow water to penetrate into the insulation from above, but does not interfere with natural vapor exchange - that is, it allows the ceiling structure to “breathe”, getting rid of accumulated moisture.
7 – attic floor boards.
Perhaps the main disadvantage of this false ceiling design is the significant consumption of lumber and the rather high complexity of installation. However, we should not forget that “two birds with one stone” are killed at the same time - at the exit there is an insulated bath ceiling and an almost finished attic (attic) floor.
At proper planning- why not. This is extremely convenient - after bath procedures, without going outside, go up to a full-fledged rest room.
The reader can get acquainted with the project in a special article on the portal.
Carrying out installation work
The work is carried out in the following order:
- If the floor beams have not yet been treated with special protective impregnations before their installation, now is the time to eliminate this shortcoming. Special attention is given to the end faceting of the beams - here you can not spare three layers of primer.
- In the case where the ceiling is installed in the room where the sauna stove-stove will be located, you should immediately provide for the passage of the chimney. To do this, two jumpers are installed between the beams, which will limit the rectangle or square required for installing the pass-through metal box.
Values A and B must correspond to the dimensions atnewfound or a self-made box - this will largely depend on the diameter of the chimney pipe.
This “outlined” square temporarily falls out of the scope of work - it will not be covered with boards either top or bottom, no membranes will be laid in it and no insulation will be laid in it.
- The next step is to attach a hydraulic vapor barrier membrane from below to the floor beams over the entire area of the room. It should be on the walls approximately 200 mm on each side - this will be required to create unified system water vapor barrier of the room.
The optimal choice is special roll material designed specifically for these purposes. If this is not possible, it is permissible to use dense polyethylene with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, but the quality of the insulation will not be the same. The strips are attached to the floor beams in such a way that an overlap of at least 200 mm is created, which must be glued with waterproof tape.
If foil material is purchased, then it is placed with the shiny side down, and the overlaps are glued with a special aluminized with tape.
- Only now can you move on to lining the ceiling with boards. At least two options are possible here.
The first is as shown in the diagram above. Hemming boards, provided that it is a high-quality material (best of all, tongue and groove) will immediately fulfill the role of decorative covering. They are attached to the floor beams, which in this case are a kind of “lags”. For fastening, use either nails or self-tapping screws of the required length. Self-tapping screws look preferable, since they hold suspended boards more reliably, and installation does not require impact forces, which are not entirely “useful” for floor beams.
However, this method is used infrequently - it turns out to be quite expensive, since a good tongue-and-groove board 20 ÷ 25 mm thick is not cheap. In addition, it is advisable to create a small air gap between the waterproofing and the front cladding. This means that for the initial filing you can use third-rate material, which will simply create the basis for the insulating layer laid on top. And from below we get a slightly different design:
1 – walls.
2 – floor beams.
3 – layer of water vapor barrier, the same as in the previous case.
4 – rough filing boards (rolling). Material of not the highest decorative quality is quite appropriate here.
5 – layer of foil roll insulation. This is another waterproofing barrier, plus it creates a “thermos” effect in the room, which is very important, in particular, for a steam room.
6 – a layer of foil insulation is pressed against the rolling boards with counter-battens, which are placed perpendicularly, with the necessary spacing (400 ÷ 600 mm) for installing the lining.
7 – natural lining, which becomes the front covering bath room. It is usually used on the ceiling and walls.
Prices for wooden lining
wooden lining
When the covering of the ceiling surface is finished, insert the passage box for the chimney pipe and attach it to the ceiling covering.
After the lower part of the ceiling is sheathed, you can move to the attic for further work.
- The next step is laying the insulating layer. And here it is important to make one very important remark.
Often in publications on bath ceilings you can find recommendations to first hem the bottom boards, and then lay a water vapor barrier film on top, along the flooring and along the beams. Let's look at the diagram - it would seem that everything is exactly the same as above. But the error is shown here - it is highlighted with a red arrow.
If you lay vapor barriers in this way, it turns out that the floor beams have no protection from moisture rising from above. Moreover, the possibility of moisture evaporating upward into the atmosphere is completely excluded, that is, the beams will not dry out even when the bathhouse is not in use. Unfortunately, this error “walks” across the Internet, is replicated, and as a result, the master who applied such a scheme dooms the ceiling structure to fragility.
The same error - in the photo
The ceiling facing boards will in any case come into contact with steam, but they are easy to replace as they wear out. But the beams play a load-bearing role, and if the process of rotting or fungus forms in them, then the strength of the structure will be in big question, and renovation work"They'll cost a pretty penny."
The beams must remain open at the top - then when proper organization insulation excess moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
Baths are often used as ceiling insulation. mineral wool– it is safe from the point of view of fire, harmless to humans (if you use stone wool. Glass wool or slag wool are undesirable in baths). The insulation mats are spread between the floor beams so that they fit as tightly as possible, leaving no gaps.
Expanded polystyrene, widely used in construction practice, should not be used to insulate a bath ceiling. Firstly, the material is not designed for high temperatures, and with strong heating it can become deformed and “float”. Secondly, there are a lot of questions about polystyrene foam and environmental friendliness - over time, its decomposition with the release of toxic substances is inevitable. And thirdly, expanded polystyrene cannot be classified as non-combustible materials, but for a bathhouse this is extremely important.
Often, to insulate the ceiling, expanded clay backfill is used between the floor beams, with a thickness of about 100 ÷ 150 mm. The method is not bad, but only if high-quality expanded clay is used, since you can find very critical reviews from people who We used inexpensive material and were not happy with the results obtained.
The old “old-fashioned” methods of insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse do not lose popularity either. So, usually during the construction of a log house a lot of shavings and sawdust remain. And this is a very good insulation material. Under normal conditions, they are poured dry into the space between the beams, but for a bathhouse it is better to make a dense wet mortar using cement or clay. You can look at this as an example:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The ceiling below is completely lined with clapboard. Between it and the ceiling tanks there is an appropriate water vapor barrier layer. |
 | A passage box has been installed, and in this case the chimney pipe has already been installed. |
 | The same box is a view from the attic, filled with expanded clay, which acts as a thermal insulation “cushion.” |
 | It is assumed that the wet solution will be backfilled, so the cells between the floor beams must be additionally closed with pieces of film water vapor barrier. You can additionally lay dry cardboard underneath them. The beams themselves remain open at the top. |
 | Surely, there are gaps in the coating - for example, in places where cables or other communications pass. In addition, there may be gaps in the joints of the beams. |
 | First of all, you can use polyurethane foam to seal all the cracks and gaps, blocking possible cold bridges. |
 | Now you can prepare the insulating composition. To do this, about one ladle (1.5 dm³) of dry cement is added to two buckets of dry sawdust. |
 | Topped up required amount water. You need to be very careful with this - the solution should not turn out liquid. The required consistency is semi-dry, so that when squeezed in a fist, a lump forms, but without releasing water. |
 | The mixture is mixed - this will be most conveniently done using a construction mixer. For large volumes, you can also use a concrete mixer, then feeding the finished mixture to the top. |
 | The finished composition is poured between the floor beams. |
 | You can distribute it using a trowel - in an even layer of equal thickness. There is no need to compact the solution. |
 | Usually the layer is brought to the top edge of the beams - it turns out approximately 100 ÷ 150 mm, which will be enough for high-quality insulation baths Sometimes work is carried out in layers, gradually increasing the thickness of the insulation to the required level, allowing the laid layers to set and dry. |
Chopped straw is sometimes used instead of sawdust, although in this case it is better to use a clay solution.
What kind of insulation neither used, after laying it, it is recommended to secure it to the floor beams steam-permeable diffuse membrane. The properties of this material are such that moisture from above cannot enter the insulation, and water vapor escapes freely. Such natural ventilation prevents the formation of condensation and a decrease in insulation properties.
The action of a diffuse membrane - water is retained and steam passes through
Once the membrane is laid and stapled to the beams, you can proceed to laying the attic floor boards, if planned. Usually, with hemmed ceiling types, attic floors are always made full, the room can be used, and the insulation will receive protection from mechanical damage.
Video: an interesting technique for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse
Floor-type bath ceiling
This type of ceiling is much easier to install and requires much less lumber. However, it is not always possible to apply it.
Flat ceiling - on a miniature model of a bathhouse
A flat ceiling will only be suitable for indoors small size– 2, maximum 2.5 meters. In this case, the flooring boards should have a thickness of about 50 mm. As a rule, using the attic as a usable area in such cases is not considered - the floor will not have the necessary strength. But the insulation process is also significantly simplified - the thermal insulation material itself does not require additional protection from above.
An approximate diagram of a flat ceiling is shown in the figure:
1 – walls. The distance between the main walls is no more than 2500 mm (light partitions are not taken into account).
2 – flooring boards, which are attached with nails or self-tapping screws directly to the wall beam. Board thickness - no less 50 mm, the width of its approach to the wall is the same - 50 mm. A good quality planed board is suitable for these purposes, which can be laid tightly one to the other, without gaps.
3 – layer steam and waterproofing– no different from the one mentioned above.
4 – insulation material. Almost anyone can use it. However, if bulk is used, then it will also be necessary to make partitions from bars (item 5, shown in dotted lines, as an optional element) so that the backfill still has the required uniform thickness.
By the way, in this case, homemade mats, sewn from waterproof film and filled with available insulation material, are often used as thermal insulation. For example, it could be padding polyester waste, dry pine needles, etc.
Since there is no expected movement in the attic, it is not necessary to lay a floor on top of the insulation layer.
Under number 6 showing layer vapor permeable diffuse membrane. In this case, this is also not mandatory. If the roof structure is made according to all the rules, then such a membrane is already used for roofing material, and free steam exchange will be ensured. Reliable roof covering should completely exclude direct ingress of water, and since the attic is not used for economic or domestic purposes, an accidental spill of water is extremely unlikely. So you can save a lot of money on this.
Ceiling boards often immediately play the role of a finishing surface. If there is a need, for example, when finishing a steam room, to add thermal insulation, then you can do the same as in the case of a false ceiling - fill counter slats perpendicularly, which will press the foil material to the surface, and then lay natural lining.
Video: example of installing a flat ceiling
Panel ceiling
The design of such a ceiling to some extent combines the features of a floor and hemmed design. The ceiling surface is assembled on the ground, the process of insulation and waterproofing can also take place here, and then the finished panels are raised to a height and mounted on the upper crown of the walls.
What do these panels usually look like? These are knocked together panels, the basis of which consists of two beams located parallel at a distance of 500 mm from one another. The cross-section of the beam depends on the span length, but it is usually taken equal to 50 × 100 mm - this allows you to achieve high strength ceiling structure - it will serve well as a floor for an attic or attic. And, at the same time, 100 mm is a sufficient thickness for complete insulation.
The beams are laid out in parallel on a flat, stable base at a distance of 500 mm across external parties, align the edges. Then they are stuffed with pieces of boards about 25 ÷ 30 mm thick and 600 mm long. The width of the board does not matter - as a rule, leftover lumber is used, which, by the way, allows you to seriously save on such a ceiling. Each board is attached to the beam with two nails to ensure the immobility of the structure. The boards are placed in such a way that they protrude equally on the sides of the shield by 50 mm.
After the panel is knocked together, it is turned over with the beams facing up. Using staplers, a water vapor barrier film is attached to its inner surface (shown by an arrow). Please note that the top of the beams remains open.
If there are enough working hands, or there are lifting devices that will help raise the panel to a height, then you can immediately insulate the panel right there on the ground (if, of course, we are talking about rolls or mats of thermal insulation material). For example, laying mineral wool will not weigh down the panels too much - but there will be no need to carry out this work in the attic.
The insulation mats are laid tightly in the gap between the beams, covered with a membrane. In order for the resulting structure to gain the additional rigidity necessary to raise it to a height, 2 ÷ 3 oblique temporary jumpers made of boards are installed.
1 – mats (blocks) of insulation material – mineral wool.
2 – temporary “oblique” jumpers for lifting panels onto the walls.
Prices for mineral wool
mineral wool
The panels rise to the installation site. This can be the upper plane of the crown, or a horizontal stepped groove on it selected specifically for the panel structure. Another option is to attach a beam with a thickness of at least 50 mm to the perimeter walls, which will become a “shelf” for installing finished panels.
In any case, the place where the panels are laid needs an insulating seal. Typically, jute felt tape is used for these purposes - it will perfectly cover the gaps between the wall and the panels.
The panels are laid close to one another, and temporary jumpers are removed. After joining between the panels, based on their design, a gap of 100 mm wide remains. It was left there for a reason: its purpose is to insulate joints.
1 – wall.
2 – felt tape, sealing the junction of the wall and panels.
3 – finished panels with temporary jumpers already removed.
4 – cut strip of thermal insulation material.
5 – boards fixing the panels to each other.
In each of these openings at the junction, the same water vapor barrier film is first laid along the bottom and walls. A wide strip is then cut from the mineral wool slabs and placed into the opening as tightly as possible (shown by the wide green arrows). Thus, the cold bridge at the junction will be securely closed.
All that remains is to fix the panels together. First, a diffuse membrane is spread over them, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Then a solid board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is laid - preferably along the entire length of the room, that is, in total it should fasten all the installed panels at once. It is nailed (screwed) to each bar. The same board is immediately placed on the opposite side of the panel ceiling. Then you can sheathe the resulting surface with a short board, 600 mm long - this will form the attic floor. At the same time, do not forget that the long boards connecting the panels must run not only along opposite walls, but also between them, with a pitch of no more than 1000 mm.
From below, the ceiling can be sheathed with clapboard, using the same technology mentioned above.
The advantages of this ceiling installation method:
- The main assembly and even insulation is carried out in comfortable and safe conditions - on the ground.
- The construction turns out to be durable - this is a full-fledged insulated ceiling for the attic, which can be usefully used.
- This ceiling can be installed in rooms of almost any reasonable size.
The disadvantages include:
- A very large-scale scope of work.
- The need for lifting devices or equipment, or the effort of several people.
- Installation of such a ceiling must be carried out before installation rafter system– and this is not always convenient from the point of view of organizing construction.
So, the main varieties were considered wooden ceilings for a bathhouse, technological recommendations for their installation are given. You should carefully study all the advantages and disadvantages of each system in order to assess the possibilities of its installation in relation to the specific conditions of the existing bathhouse, and weigh your capabilities, both from the point of view of the necessary construction skills and from the standpoint of material costs. You cannot make mistakes in such matters - a poor-quality ceiling will certainly have a negative impact on the comfort of bath procedures, and its alteration is an extremely difficult and costly undertaking.
A bathhouse is a complex functional structure that has special operating requirements. A well-equipped bathhouse ceiling ensures the maintenance of optimal temperature conditions in the premises and protects against the negative effects of external factors.
To ensure a long service life of the ceiling, it is necessary to take it into account design features, as well as the choice of materials for construction and finishing.
Requirements
To ensure the durability and reliability of the entire structure, the ceiling in the bathhouse must meet a number of important operational requirements:
- High thermal insulation characteristics. To reduce heat loss in bath rooms, the ceiling structure must have good thermal insulation. This will ensure rapid accumulation of thermal energy, reduce fuel consumption and prevent rapid cooling of the steam room.
- Moisture resistance. As a rule, wood is used to build baths, which requires additional protection from high humidity and hot steam. For these purposes, special antiseptic impregnations and varnishes are used. However, wood is not an absolutely sealed material, so it is capable of allowing excess moisture to pass through to the heat-insulating layer. To protect the insulating base of the ceiling from moisture, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier.
- Mechanical strength and reliability. The ceiling structure must be of increased strength to guarantee safe operation the entire building. When developing a bathhouse project, you should take into account the weight of the finished structure, the weight of insulation, finishing materials and, if an attic space is provided, the weight of the furniture and equipment located inside.
- Long service life. The bathhouse is built for decades, so the ceiling must not only be practical, but also durable, made from high-quality and safe materials.
Materials
For proper arrangement of the ceiling structure important step is the choice of construction, finishing, heat and vapor barrier materials. In this case, what is better to make the ceiling from in order to get a reliable and durable design? Experts recommend giving preference to safe, environmentally friendly, practical and durable materials.
- For ceiling structure. The ceiling in the bathhouse is made of coniferous wood, resistant to rotting and elevated temperatures. In addition, coniferous boards or timber are cheap materials that are easy to process and install. Ceiling beams, rough ceiling and attic floor are constructed from softwood.
- For decorative finishing. Deciduous wood is used as finishing materials - alder, linden, aspen, larch, oak. Wood finish The ceiling in the bathhouse is resistant to high temperatures, high humidity, and is easy to process and install.
- For thermal insulation. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer for the bath ceiling should be 30 cm, which allows you to retain heat in the steam room for a long time. fire resistant and safe insulation materials– cotton wool on a mineral and basalt basis. They are resistant to burning, rotting, and the negative effects of moisture and steam. To save thermal insulation characteristics It is recommended to use them in conjunction with waterproofing materials. To reduce the cost of construction, more affordable analogues are used - sawdust and natural clay. The finished clay mortar is laid thin layer on a rough board flooring in the attic, then covered with sawdust, shavings or sand.
- For waterproofing. Provide protection of insulation from high humidity and steam. The best option for waterproofing is double-sided foil membranes.
- For vapor barrier. They provide protection against the penetration of hot steam through the ceiling structure into the insulating layer or into the attic. Polyethylene foam film, glassine and vapor barrier membranes. The main requirement for the material is the ability to operate at air heating temperatures of up to 125 degrees.
- Fasteners. When arranging the ceiling, it is allowed to use galvanized, copper or brass fasteners.
For the construction and finishing of the ceiling structure, you cannot use:
- plywood, chipboard and OSB;
- expanded polystyrene and foam boards;
- mounting foam for sealing;
- films based on polyethylene;
- damaged or deformed wood.
Installation methods
Floors and ceilings in the bathhouse can be made in one of three ways:
- Hemmed. The ceiling arrangement provides for an attic space for storing bath fixtures and utensils. A distinctive characteristic of the structure is the presence of a log floor, which is mounted on the last crown of the log house. Such a system is simple and accessible for self-installation.
- Flat. Suitable for small-sized bath buildings that are not equipped with an attic and do not have floor beams. This design is simple and easy to implement. The permissible span length should not be more than 2.5 meters.
- Panel. Technically complex design, which is built from wooden boxes filled with insulating material. Installation of such a ceiling requires outside help.
false ceiling
Installing a suspended ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands is technically difficult, but possible. This design is characterized by the high cost of building materials.
The construction of a false ceiling in a log bathhouse is carried out in the following order:
- Preparing a ceiling frame from timber with a cross-section of 5 × 15 cm. Laying beams at a distance of 55 to 95 cm for strapping. A special hole is made for a square-shaped chimney pipe, taking into account the diameter of the pipe. The wood is treated with antiseptic impregnation.
- Laying vapor barrier material with an aluminum protective layer, with fixation from inside the room to ceiling beams overlapping metal brackets by 10 cm. Gluing the joints with construction tape.
- Installation of sheathing on a vapor barrier, observing technological gaps for natural ventilation.
- Installation of decorative lining from hardwood. Thermal insulation and waterproofing ceiling in the attic. Work is being carried out on laying insulating and waterproofing material overlapping with the joints treated with construction tape. Fixation to the ceiling structure using metal brackets. Compliance air gap 3–5 cm.
- Installation of flooring - plywood or floorboards. The wooden base is carefully treated with antiseptics.
Important! To fix the main structural elements, galvanized nails with wide heads are used. They must be longer than thick wooden board twice. If necessary, nails can be replaced with self-tapping screws or clamps of a similar size.
Flat ceiling
This is the fastest and affordable way arrangement of the ceiling structure, since its cost is much lower than that of a false ceiling. It can be used in a bathhouse made of boards, in which there is no attic space.
Step by step guide on how to make a deck ceiling:
- Used as a base for the ceiling rough boards 40 cm thick, laid inside the bathhouse on the walls and fixed together with thin bars at a distance of 40–80 cm from each other. This is how the entire ceiling panel is assembled.
- A vapor barrier material is laid on the installed ceiling frame to create an airtight layer. Fixing the material to the boards using metal staples.
- Next, the insulation flooring is performed. It is easier to choose mineral or basalt wool, but if you plan to use bulk materials - expanded clay, clay, sand or earth, you will additionally need to install fencing wooden elements from the board.
- Waterproofing is laid on the thermal insulation layer to provide additional protection from moisture and steam.
- Finally, decorative finishing is carried out wooden clapboard.
Panel ceiling
The main advantages of such a design are its efficiency and durability, because for its assembly the remains of lumber preserved after the construction of the bathhouse can be used.
To properly sheathe the ceiling panel slabs, all work is performed in the following order:
- Prepare two beams of length equal to the width of the opening, with allowances of 5 cm on each side. The bars are installed on flat surface parallel to each other in increments of 50 cm. The structure is lined with a board, the length of which exceeds the width of the opening by 10 cm. As a result, the board floor is wider in width than the base of the box by 5 cm on each side.
- WITH inside The ceiling panel is sheathed with vapor barrier material.
- To prevent possible skewing of the panel, the connection of individual parts is carried out using temporary clamps.
- Ready ceiling panel mounted to upper crowns frame of the load-bearing wall structure, taking into account additional installation rafter system for the roof. Jute fiber is placed between the panels for insulation.
- After installing the ceiling base, the inner base of the panel is filled with insulating material and sealed with waterproofing. To make the structure lighter, fiberglass or basalt wool up to 10 cm thick can be used as insulation.
- The upper part of the structure is sheathed with tightly laid boards.
Important! During operation of the bathhouse, condensation may form on the upper part of the ceiling cladding. To prevent this phenomenon, the ceiling cladding is performed at a slope of 6 degrees.
In conclusion, here are some tips for properly arranging a ceiling structure in a bathhouse:
- If the bathhouse design includes an attic space, then when installing the ceiling, it is additionally worth considering an entrance hatch with a retractable ladder.
- Decorative finishing ceiling surface performed after preparation floor base. The final stage is wall cladding.
- To reduce or prevent possible heat loss in the room, it is necessary to take care of high-quality and reliable thermal insulation of the ceiling structure.
- To obtain a perfectly flat ceiling surface, the first floor boards must be laid level. Otherwise, this will lead to deformation of the finished structure.
- For the construction and finishing of the ceiling, it is recommended to use environmentally friendly safe materials, which do not emit hazardous substances when exposed to high temperatures.
It is quite easy to erect a reliable and durable ceiling in a bathhouse building. To do this, you need to decide on a suitable ceiling design, assortment of building and finishing materials. Due to their increased strength, durability and practicality, suspended and flat ceilings are the most popular.
The construction and finishing of the ceiling in a bathhouse is an important process on which the stable supply of hot air to the room and the durability of the building depend. Next we will talk about arranging the ceiling and choosing materials for it.
Requirements for ceiling heights in the bathhouse
The purpose of the rooms in the bathhouse is different, because of this the ceilings are built at different heights.
When determining the height of ceilings in a bathhouse, use the following recommendations:
- In the steam room There is always an elevated temperature. The lower the ceiling, the faster it will warm up. The distance to the ceiling in the steam room is determined by the height of the tallest member of the family or company with the addition of 0.5 m to the arm span with a broom.
- In the washing room the temperature should be kept at 37-39 degrees. The height of the ceilings is not regulated: the higher, the more air and the easier it is to breathe. The most common height in this room is 2.5 m.
- In the rest room The ceiling height is also not regulated; in this case, everything depends on the design of the room. For example, a tent ceiling should be located at a height of more than 3 m from the floor.
- The ceiling in the dressing room is built like in a living room.
Types of ceiling designs in the bathhouse
Ceilings are built in one of three ways, depending on the purpose of the room.
False ceilings for baths
They gained popularity due to their ease of manufacture. They are used to install ceilings in steam rooms and washing rooms, but can also be used in other rooms. On the attic side, insulating materials are laid between the support beams of the attic floor to protect the room from loss of steam, heat and cold. The insulation is covered on top with boards. On the side of the room, the ceiling is covered with clapboard.
Advantages of a false ceiling in a washing bath:
- Simplicity of design, the work can be done without carpentry skills.
- It is possible to use the attic space to store household utensils.
- If necessary, ceiling repairs are carried out quickly.
Panel ceilings in the bathhouse
They look like “troughs” made of boards. The width of the structure is 50 cm. A vapor barrier layer and insulation are laid inside the panel. Each panel is made separately and then attached to the ceiling. The gaps between them are sealed with a moisture-resistant insulator, for example, felt with a layer of polyethylene. From below everything is sewn up with clapboard.
The disadvantages include the large weight of the panels, which leads to significant loads on the supporting structures.
Advantages of panel ceiling:
- High-quality wood is not required; cutting boards can be used.
- It is possible to use the attic to store bath accessories.
Flat ceilings in the bathhouse
Used in rooms with a small area. The design is simple: the ceiling is formed by boards that rest on load-bearing walls. The gaps between the boards are sealed with crumpled clay 2 cm thick. First, a steam insulator is laid on top, and then insulation, which is covered with a slab. On the side of the room, the ceiling is covered with clapboard. Negative side This design means the ceiling has a low load-bearing capacity; only brooms can be stored in the attic.
Thermal insulation of bath ceiling
Before making a ceiling in a bathhouse, select insulation for it.
The following heat insulators can be used:
- Jute insulation is considered the best option for ceiling insulation. Does not rot, is not affected by high temperatures, maintains a healthy atmosphere in the building. This natural material without synthetic additives. To insulate the ceiling, jute insulation 6 mm thick is used, the material density is 600 g/m. The fiber length of high-quality insulation is 2-3 cm.
- Mineral wool slabs and mats are also used as insulation. This is a lightweight, durable material considered classic version thermal insulation.
- Expanded clay is an inexpensive material, but it must be poured at least 30 cm thick, so the ceiling is reinforced with powerful beams. For expanded clay insulation, it is necessary to make a rough ceiling from boards, onto which the insulator is poured.
- Glass wool, tow, felt, and moss are also suitable. These materials allow air to circulate freely and are well compacted.
Disadvantages of natural insulation:
- May be affected by moths.
- They dry out quickly.
- Installation takes a long time.
- For installation, use only dry samples, otherwise they will rot.
- Natural ingredients are often impregnated chemicals, harmful to humans.
Do not cover the top of the insulation in the washing room with anything, otherwise it will not dry.
Decorating the ceiling in a bathhouse from reinforced concrete slabs has its own characteristics. If the walls of the bathhouse are made of brick and the ceiling is made of concrete slabs, insulation of the ceiling is carried out as follows:
- Fix 10-15 cm thick mineral wool from below to the slab in any way.
- Cover the cotton wool with aluminum foil.
- Along the perimeter of the wall, under the ceiling, secure 10x10 cm beams, which will serve as support for the sheathing.
- Place lining lathing on the beams in increments of 50 cm.
- Cover the ceiling with clapboard.
- From the roof side, lay a layer of insulation 10-15 cm thick on the ceiling. Lay planks on top of the insulation, then the attic can be used to store bath utensils.
- It is not necessary to waterproof the attic floor; waterproof material under the roof is sufficient.
- If the steam room and washing room are separated by solid walls, instead of foil, you can use another, cheaper vapor barrier material.
Ceiling vapor barrier for a bath
The best vapor barrier for the ceiling wooden bath considered a foil vapor barrier material. This is an expensive product, and is often used only when constructing a ceiling in a steam room. In other rooms it is cheaper to use for vapor barrier plastic film with a density above 140 microns.
In the dressing room and rest room, where the temperature is low, you can lay roofing felt, glassine and roofing material as a vapor barrier. These substances are not used to protect against steam in a steam room; when heated, they emit unpleasant odors.
When making a vapor barrier, use the following recommendations:
- The joints and seams of vapor barrier materials are sealed on top with aluminum foil-based tape.
- There should be a gap of 2 cm between the vapor barrier sheet and the finishing material. With this technology facing material will not be additionally moistened by possible condensation on the vapor barrier.
- The vapor barrier should not allow steam to penetrate to the insulation, otherwise it will collapse.
- It is prohibited to use a “breathable” film or membrane instead of a vapor barrier.
Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse
Wooden or plastic lining and boards are used to cover the ceiling.
Wooden lining for bath ceiling
Materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse must have low thermal conductivity. Such properties are characteristic of linden, aspen, alder and some other types of wood. Wood paneling is used for the ceiling in the dressing room and rest room.
In a steam room, it is preferable to cover the ceiling with wooden clapboard; it can withstand high temperatures better. Do not sheathe ceilings with pine and spruce boards. Resin released from boards when high temperature, will drip on your head.
Do not make the ceiling from chipboard and fiberboard. When exposed to heat and moisture, they release phenol-formaldehyde resin vapors.
Plastic PVC lining for the ceiling in the bathhouse
Imitates wood and has ideal properties for use in washing:
- The tight fit of the lining seams makes the coating impenetrable to steam.
- The lining does not require coating with an antiseptic; it does not rot.
- The sheets have simple geometric shapes and connecting points, which makes assembly easier.
- The product has a cellular structure with a thickness of 5 mm, therefore it is considered a good insulation material.
- The panels are strong enough to lay mineral wool on top of them for insulation.
- Installing the lining is simple; you can cover the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands, even without much experience in such work.
Combined materials for the ceiling in the bathhouse
There are modern combined materials, possessing the properties of insulation and heat and vapor barrier. They are sold in the form of slabs, fixed with nails or a stapler. Capable of withstanding 150 degrees. After installing the slabs, the ceiling is covered with clapboard.
Using antiseptics to cover bathhouse ceilings
Be sure to cover wooden ceilings in the steam room and washing room with a special sauna antiseptic that protects the wood from fungus and insects. These products include antiseptic SENAGE SAUNA and Dulux Celco Sauna varnish. They can withstand temperatures up to 120 degrees and are odorless. The varnish, in addition, forms a smooth, durable film on the panels, protecting the surface of the ceiling and facilitating cleaning of the surface.
In the steam room there are unsightly marks on the ceiling after splashing aromatic oils and water, sweat, so a smooth varnish film will make cleaning the surfaces easier. In other rooms, you can also treat the ceilings with an antiseptic if the panels are not made of coniferous wood. In this case, the resin will protect the material from moisture.
Do not paint ceilings unless they are intended for hot wet areas. Conventional paints emit fumes that are harmful to humans when heated.
How to make a ceiling in a bathhouse - watch the video:
Correct installation of the ceiling in the bathhouse will ensure a qualitative improvement of the entire building. Follow the suggested recommendations - and the ceiling will not let you down.
