Who wouldn't want to live in their own home!

Everyone dreams about it!

Well, nothing can be done about it - the simple unpretentious comfort of rural life beckons us.

The atmosphere of the village house is unique!

But today you can create exactly the same atmosphere not only in a cottage, but also in any city apartment.

It would seem how you can change the design of a room with the help of decorative ceiling beams?

But very much even possible!

In the interior of the room, any wooden elements are associated with warmth and comfort.

There is a fairly large number of finishing options and design techniques that allow you to create an extremely comfortable atmosphere in your home using wooden elements (or wood-like elements).

One of these methods is just decorative ceiling beams.

How can you use them?

What effect can be achieved with their help?

And how exactly is it done?

You will find all the answers in this article!

Regardless of what exactly the ceiling beams are installed for, they will add incomparable charm to any room.

The colors of the ceiling structures and their texture help to create a certain mood in the room and set a unique style.

It is very important how the beams are located on the ceiling:

1. If the ceiling elements are placed along the longest wall, then visually the room will look even more elongated.
2. If you want to visually expand the room, then the boards should be placed across the ceiling.
3. If they are arranged crosswise, then there will be no visual change in the geometry of the room. However, the room will look more voluminous.
4. If the room has an excessively high ceiling, then the wooden elements are reinforced on the walls below the ceiling. Such structures, floating in the air, visually reduce the height.
5. It is as easy as shelling pears to arrange a dividing space between parts of one room using boards. One ceiling element located at the junction of such zones is sufficient. Usually, lamps or other decorative elements are mounted in the beam.
6. If you need to highlight some specific part of the room, then the bars can be installed on the ceiling only in its zone. Ceiling elements look more original if they are placed in the form of a herringbone or lattice.
7. In order to visually raise a low ceiling in a room, the ceiling structures should be made smoothly passing along the walls to the ceiling. In this case, not the boards themselves are located on it, but a small part of them.

Gallery

What are the ceiling beams made of?

Of course, a solid wood beam is the ideal classic ceiling board.

She has a huge number of pluses with two minuses:

• heavy weight;
• high price.

Therefore, such constructive elements are used only by wealthy people.

And even during the construction phase, they are used to maintain floors.

And not only in terms of decoration.

Although some homeowners install purely decorative solid wooden blocks.

As they differ:

• naturalness;
• ecological cleanliness;
• spectacular appearance.

However, one should also know about the shortcomings.

Two of them have already been mentioned.

Another disadvantage is the complexity of installation.

Primarily due to the weight of the material.

By the way, you should know that the moisture resistance of wood is very low.

It is spoiled by microorganisms, and it is subject to decay.

A great alternative to natural wood beams - U-shaped polyurethane products.

Such products are different:

• attractive appearance;
• relatively low weight;
• high moisture resistance;
• simple installation.

Since the board has a U-shape, not only wires, but even pipes can be hidden inside it.

On polyurethane beams, they arrange a surface that imitates real wood.

If there is a desire and some skill, then you can independently make ceiling structures that will be practically indistinguishable from natural wooden beams.

The simplest bars can be made from polystyrene foam.

If you need products of large thickness, then the foam is simply glued to the desired thickness.

Cutting styrofoam is very easy.

It is enough to have a sharp knife.

Such a foam plastic decorative part is glued on top with a self-adhesive film having a wood-like texture.

Liquid nails are used to mount such a product on the ceiling.

Also, to create a U-shaped ceiling beam, drywall or lightweight plywood is often used.

The parts from which the box is assembled are cut out.

The surface of such a box is also covered with self-adhesive film.

On the ceiling, a frame is preliminarily constructed from wooden bars or metal guides for gypsum.

A decorative box is attached to such a frame.

Functional use

Today, such beams are used, as a rule, only as a decorative decoration of a room.

It is for this reason that there are a large number of options for their placement.

They are sometimes used as a real floor support.

But this happens less and less.

Therefore, in addition to the decorative function, the ceiling board is designed to hide defects in the ceiling and communications.

It is very convenient to carry out communications inside a hollow board.

If it is one-piece, then it is very convenient to attach lighting devices to it.

Chandelier, for example.

Mounting and Ceiling Mount

The easiest way to describe the installation of a solid wood beam.

Through the body of the bar, through holes should be drilled, and dowels should be installed on the ceiling.

Since the weight of the product is large, the appropriate dowels should be installed.

Then, using self-tapping screws of a large length, the bar is fixed to the ceiling.

The holes from the self-tapping screws are sealed in any convenient way.

You should be aware that when installing such a product, no glue is used.

It won't help with that weight.

But on such a board, you can easily place a chandelier or any other lamp.

Installing a decorative beam on the ceiling is easy.

Special knowledge is not required here.

The most important thing is to follow the instructions, take your time and do everything carefully.

And, of course, you need an assistant.

This will make the whole process go faster.

Required tools

Tools are something without which nothing can be done.

You will need:

• roulette;
• breaker cord;
• hacksaw;
• drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• corner;
• ruler;
• pencil.

Installation is carried out in several stages:

1. The finished U-shaped bar is laid on the floor as we will attach it to the ceiling. Now you should measure the distance between the side walls.
2. At the starting wall, two strokes are applied to the ceiling at the distance that you received when measuring.
3. Along the entire length of the installation of the bar between the strokes, marking lines are applied using a corner and a ruler or a breaker cord.
4. A wooden structure made of bars is attached to the ceiling along each line. This will be a supporting frame located inside the decorative beam. The board is "put on" such a frame. If its width is small and comparable to the width of one bar of the frame, then not two, but one bar are fixed on the ceiling.
5. Determine the length of the board. To do this, using a tape measure, we measure the distance between the opposite walls, to which it will adjoin.
6. If the length of the ceiling decoration is longer than this distance, then it should be trimmed. To do this, you need a hand saw with fine teeth on the blade or a frame saw. Previously, using a carpenter's corner, a cutting line should be applied. If the length of the span is such that the length of the board, on the contrary, is not enough, then they take several products and join them on the ceiling.
7. Several methods are used to decorate the junction of decorative ceiling elements. After the ends of the beams are fitted as closely as possible to each other, the joint seam is either sealed with special metal plates or with a wax pencil. You can also use a U-shaped wooden ring, rope or decorative straps.
8. The ceiling beam is slid onto a frame that is fixed to the ceiling. Now on the sides it should be fixed with self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screws are twisted so that the cap is drowned a few millimeters in the body of the board. So that it is possible then to mask the heads with wooden dowels or a wax pencil of the appropriate color. The dowels over the screws are driven into the holes, cut flush and tinted.
9. At the final stage, the joints are closed with decorative overlays or painted over with a wax pencil.

If you have various engineering communications running along the ceiling, then they can be easily hidden inside such a decor.

It is very convenient.

You don't need to groove anything.

Communications are not visible and are reliably protected from mechanical damage.

If your decorative products are made of polyurethane, then their installation is carried out in a slightly different way.

Since we will glue them, we must first prepare the surface of the ceiling.

If there is any loose plaster, it should be removed.

Irregularities - putty.

The surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt, grease.

Ideally, it should be treated with a solution of 10% ammonia, diluted one to one with water.

Installation is carried out in several stages:

• a horizontal line should be drawn on the ceiling using a chopping cord;
• using a decorative beam, a preliminary marking should be done on the ceiling;
• along the marking line, wood dies should be fixed at a distance of 50 cm;
• on the end and longitudinal parts and on wooden dies, special glue for polyurethane should be applied;
• the beam should be put on the dies and pressed firmly against them; until the glue dries completely, you should use supports (if you used self-tapping screws to attach the product to the dies, then the holes from them should be putty and painted over);
• now you should attach the consoles;
• after the glue is completely dry, you should carefully cut off its excess and tint the joint with paint;
• a decorative belt is used to decorate the seam.

About the price of decorative beams

Naturally, the most expensive products are made from natural wood.

A pine board costs 2900 rubles.

Hollow wooden beams P and L-shaped will be more accessible.

For example, the cost of one running meter of a pine board with a section of 100x150 mm is 1280 rubles.

And exactly the same beam, but made of larch, costs 1920 rubles.

Pine beams with a section of 200x150 mm cost an average of 1,825 rubles, and from polyurethane, of course, cheaper.

And they are sold not in running meters, but in pieces.

The standard length is 3 meters.

A bar with a section of 120x120 mm costs 1110 rubles.

On average, the price of a product, depending on the size and finish, is 1150 - 1300 rubles.

As you can see, a decorative ceiling beam is not such an expensive item.

Video about decorative beams on the ceiling:

It will be enough to use a false beam made of polyurethane or drywall.

The functionality practically does not suffer, and the appearance is exactly the same.

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9 ways how to make and fix ceiling beams with your own hands

I have always liked minimalism in the interior: smooth smooth surfaces, a minimum of unnecessary details, a maximum of functionality. And lately I have been drawn to something more comfortable, even rustic. I'm still not ready for carving on furniture, an abundance of textiles or a bunch of small pendants on a chandelier, but I really want to use such noticeable and space-changing details as decorative ceiling beams in my design.

And they are just what they are! Wooden, polyurethane, plastic, chipboard, MDF and drywall - for every taste and opportunity. You can buy ready-made or do it yourself. But in each case, the fastening methods will be different.

Choice of design and construction of beams

Before you start doing something, you need to draw up a plan, think over the design, calculate the materials. After all, ceiling beams can not only decorate the interior, but also hide some surface defects, visually change the spatial perception of a room, and become a functional element of the house.

For example, with their help you can:

• hide the joints of the slabs on the ceiling or the transition from one type of finish to another;

• visually make the room wider (transverse) or longer (longitudinal);

• "Ground" disproportionately high ceilings to make the room psychologically more comfortable. To do this, they are often fixed below the main level;

• highlight functional areas by dividing the room with one cross beam with built-in lamps or placing several in one part;

• hollow inside false beams with a cross-section of the box - an ideal way to secretly lay electrical wires, pipes, air ducts and other communications, as well as the installation of built-in luminaires without mounting a false ceiling, which reduces the height of the room.

In order for the interior to look advantageous, not to be overloaded with unnecessary details, you must, of course, take into account the parameters of the room. For example, if the ceiling height is small, the distance between the ceiling beams should be made wider, and they themselves should be less voluminous.

And sometimes the beams do not have to be installed by ourselves - they already exist and are load-bearing structures that annoy the tenants with their appearance. But any flaw can always be turned into a dignity if you know the tricks on how to beat a beam, harmoniously fitting it into the interior.

But I still want to talk not about the aesthetic, but about the practical side of the issue: how these decorative elements - ready-made or home-made - are made and installed.

Wooden

Wood products are massive - from solid wood, and prefabricated - from individual planks. Most often, durable and practical conifers are used for their manufacture.

In any case, the wood must be dry and clean, free from signs of rot and damage by insects. And so that they do not appear in the future, it is treated with antiseptic compounds.

Method 1 - push-through

In this way, the installation of massive beams from a bar is carried out, for which a through hole is drilled in it to the size of the fastener, and it is screwed directly to the base.

The choice of fasteners depends on the base material:

• If it is a tree, there are enough long self-tapping screws screwed in with a pitch of 15-30 cm, depending on the thickness and weight of the decorative element.
• If the decoration is carried out in a house made of blocks or bricks with concrete floor slabs, dowel-nails or anchors are needed.

The fastener caps must be sunk into the body of the beam. After installation, these holes are sealed with wood putty of a suitable shade.

Method 2 - suspended

Here, special metal wall plates with a socket are used, into which the end of the beam lies.

This method is convenient when the beams need to be lowered below the ceiling level or when they cannot be pierced through due to the small section of the fastening edge. For example, as in the case of using a thick board placed on the edge.

The overlays are subsequently hidden under a layer of plaster or cladding. If such a finish is not planned, they can be disguised by wrapping around the ends of the chain, ropes and other decorative ornaments that match the style.

Method 3 - to the console

Another option, how to fix the beam without touching the ceiling, is to lay it with its ends on the consoles fixed to the wall at the required height.

The last two methods are the only possible for lightweight suspended plasterboard or stretch ceilings, if you have not thought about the embedded elements in advance. But they can only be used for solid, not spliced ​​lengthwise beams. And they themselves should not be very long, otherwise they will sag over time, not being fixed along the entire length.

If you take a long and heavy beam, then the only way to fix the deflection of the beam is to install supports under it. But they can be beaten by turning them into decorative columns or racks with shelves.

Method 4 - fastening the false beams to the bars

Wooden false beams can be bought or made by hand. This will require well-dried edged boards. If you take raw ones, then even with a perfect fit of the joints, they will become noticeable over time, as the wood will dry out.

Depending on the availability of tools, such boxes can be made in two ways: with a cut of the ends under 45 0 and without cuts. In the first case, you will need the following tool:

• We take three boards, outline the dimensions and saw off along the length and width. At this stage, you can immediately carry out a preliminary decorative finish of each board. For example, age the surface by removing soft fibers from the top layer using a metal brush or a drill bit.

• Then, with a plunge-cut saw, cut off one longitudinal side at the side boards, and two at the front.

• We lubricate the joints with glue - carpentry, PVA or special furniture, press them together and fix the joint with finishing studs or just thin carnations with bitten off caps.

• When the structure grabs, we grind the outer corners with sandpaper, if there are gaps, we seal them with a putty, after which dry, we grind it again and cover the entire part with a decorative compound - varnish, impregnation,.

Now about how to make such a false beam, if there is nothing to carefully cut the ends with. To do this, after cutting and grinding the workpieces, small bars of the same length are screwed to the side parts from the inside. Self-tapping screws should go into the body of the board, but not go out.

Then, holes are drilled in each bar on the adjacent edges between the attachment points to fix the front panel.

Before screwing on the faceplate, glue must also be applied to the lower edges of the bars. Further - the same processing as in the previous version.

Despite the fact that such ceiling beams much lighter than massive ones, they still have a decent weight, so you need to fasten them securely... To do this, first a thick board is attached to the ceiling with a width equal to the internal distance between the side walls of the box. Instead of a board, you can take a couple of bars, as in the next photo.

It remains to put the false beam on the bars and fix it with self-tapping screws, sinking the caps and sealing the grooves with putty. If the box is relatively light, you can do it with finishing studs more often - they are unlikely to be noticeable at this height.

Plasterboard

Drywall is a versatile material. You can make a structure of any shape from it, even a curved one. And the beam is the same box that many make around the perimeter of the ceiling for installing spotlights. Only in our case they will go across it.

Method 5 - on a metal frame

I do not think that there is a need to explain something in detail to those who have already dealt with drywall. And for those who did not have it, you can read articles on this topic, where everything is described in detail. Therefore, briefly and in pictures.

After the finishing putty, such ceiling beams can be finished in any way: paint, wallpaper, tile, etc.

Method 6 - on a wooden frame

Everything is the same, only the frame is made of wooden blocks. They will also help solve the difficult problem of how to beat a beam on the ceiling in an apartment: if it looks unpresentable, it is enough to fix even slats on it and sheathe it with drywall.

• similar parallel or cross beams can be added;

• or build similar boxes around the perimeter;

• if the crossing beams are pasted over with polyurethane moldings, putty and painted, it will look like a coffered ceiling in a classic style;

Ready-made elements

It is not at all necessary to invent and craft something ourselves, since decorative beams can be bought ready-made. They are made from wood-like materials - chipboard, plywood, MDF with veneer, painting, lamination. And also made of plastic by the type of cable channels and polyurethane.

The latest products come in a variety of designs and shapes. Most often they imitate wood, and so believable that it is impossible to distinguish them from natural material.

In addition to aesthetic external parameters, they are lightweight and moisture resistant. The lightness of the product allows it to be attached even to plasterboard ceilings without installing mortgages, and moisture resistance - to hide water pipes and air conditioning systems in them, and the fight against condensation on the ceiling under the beams will no longer be a problem.

For each type of finished beams, its own installation methods have been developed.

Method 7 - on wedge-bars

In this way, lightweight polyurethane beams are mounted on the ceiling. The whole process is shown in the picture:

1. The distance between the inner walls of the box is measured; short wedge-shaped bars are cut to this size.
2. Markings are made on the ceiling.
3. A hole is drilled in the bars for a fastening self-tapping screw or anchor, and they are screwed along the marking line in 1 meter increments, including at the junction of the elements, if there is one.
4. The ends of the bars and beams are lubricated with glue.
5. The decorative elements are neatly "set" on the bars, pressed against the plane of the ceiling and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.

Since the joints of polyurethane products cannot be sanded and covered with putty, they are decorated. You can use coarse twine, rope, staples, or any other means at hand.

Method 8 - using guides

Some firms produce decorative beams with hidden fastening. These are metal rails installed on the ceiling, to which the beams are connected with special clamps.

The guides can be not only metal, but also made of the same material as the decorative box itself, but without finishing - it is still not visible after installation.

Depending on the size, you can hide everything in them - from wires to air ducts.

Method 9 - cable beams

This is the cheapest, but also the most artificial kind of our decorative element. It is possible to suspect a real wooden beam in it only with a good imagination, since the plastic betrays itself regardless of the drawing or the color imitation of a tree.

The channel itself is attached to the wall or ceiling, and after laying any kind of communications in it, a cover is snapped onto it. Everything is simple and quick, but hardly suitable for creating a warm home interior. Although for hi-tech and minimalism - why not? You can even take white or color without imitation of wood.

If the beam is supporting

The supporting structures also need finishing. If you want to hide the beams completely, they are simply included in the frame system for sheathing with slabs, clapboard or panels.

But this is not always possible if the ceiling height is small. For example, in a bathhouse or an old house. Then it only remains to veneer the beam itself with wood or, if the size allows, "put" it in a polyurethane cover.

But what if the beam is bent or cracked, and there is a danger that it will not withstand the load from the floor? There are at least three ways to solve this problem yourself.

1. The first is the installation of a retaining bar. I have already mentioned it.
2. The second way to strengthen the beam is to pull it together with metal strips. For this, her first propped up, returning to the original level, then apply on both sides long strips of metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm, drill them every 15-20 cm and tighten them through the timber with bolts. The support can then be removed.

1. The third is to use a bar of the same section on one side instead of metal plates. After installing the support, it is pulled together with the main studs.

Of course, there is no need to talk about the aesthetics of beams reinforced in such ways, therefore, after repair, it is also advisable to refine them by covering them with a box made of wood or drywall.

Conclusion

Since in the near future, if everything goes well, we are going to buy a wooden house, then the problem of its electrification and water supply worries me now: I do not like wires and pipes in plain sight. And the ceiling beams, which nothing can prevent me from installing on the walls, perfectly solve these problems, at the same time satisfying the suddenly awakened craving for rustic comfort.

If some of the readers have solved them in a similar way, I will be grateful for the photo and description in the comments to this article.

November 9, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Installation of polyurethane beams on a regular ceiling is not very difficult. Such beams are lightweight, and Spantan-1K glue, specially developed by Amaro, is sufficient for their installation.

Attention: It takes 1.5-2 hours for the glue to completely harden. During this time, props should be placed to support the beams.

With a stretch ceiling, the situation is more complicated. Stretch ceiling is one of the most functional and effective design solutions, especially in combination with decorative beams. But just glue the beams to it will not work. There are several options for installing polyurethane beams on a stretch ceiling.

Attention: Gloves should be used when working with a stretch ceiling, especially if the coating is glossy. Otherwise, ugly marks will remain on it.

Suppose the stretch ceiling has already been made, and the beams to be installed are short, for example, about 1 meter. In this case, wooden bars should be fixed on the walls, to which the beams are attached with screws. Self-tapping screws can be painted over to match the beam itself, thus making them invisible. Due to the fact that the false beam is short, it will not sag. The end result is an interesting design solution, as if a beam supports the ceiling.

Installation of long beams to a stretch ceiling

For long beams, the first method will not work, since in this case they will sag. As a result, you get a very unsightly picture in the form of a gap between the ceiling and the beam. This will be especially noticeable with a glossy ceiling covering. Therefore, if you plan to install long beams, it is necessary to make mortgages even before installing the ceiling. They attach directly to the base ceiling. After stretching the PVC cloth or fabric through it, the bars are attached to the mortgages. Then, the decorative beams themselves are attached directly to the bars with the help of self-tapping screws.

Embedments can be made from wooden blocks, or you can use universal mounting platforms for a chandelier or special adjustable racks. There is no need to build a massive structure of durable moisture-resistant plywood, as under a heavy chandelier, since polyurethane beams are necessarily lightweight.

The embedment can also be made from a metal profile for plasterboard structures. However, this method of fastening is more suitable for installing decorative elements with a higher weight than for lightweight polyurethane beams.

Mortgages must meet the following requirements:

1. Be aligned. Alignment is best done with a laser level according to the level of the future stretch ceiling.
2. If the stretch ceiling is planned to be made of PVC, and not of fabric, then the mortgages should be smooth and without burrs. Otherwise, sharp edges can damage the blade.
3. Embeddments made of wooden blocks should be plastered in places of possible contact with the canvas in order to avoid damage to it.

The bars to which the beams are attached are screwed to the mortgages through the stretch ceiling, which means that holes for the screws must be made in the canvas. If the ceiling is woven, such holes can be made without fear that the canvas will break. In the case of a PVC ceiling, the screw holes must be reinforced.

Reinforcement of holes in the ceiling leaf

The most common two ways are reinforced. The first is the use of stickers or universal adhesive tape in place of the future holes. However, the use of special plastic rings is considered a more reliable and correct way.

An even thin layer of super glue is applied to the ring and attached to the ceiling. Make sure that the ring is firmly glued to the canvas, after which a hole is cut out along its inner diameter with a clerical knife. It is through this hole that the bar is attached to the mortgage.

Attention: information is given for informational purposes only. We are not responsible for the consequences of self-assembly. We recommend contacting specialists.

Ceiling beams as a decorative element are installed in rooms to give the interior originality and uniqueness. These can be structural beams released outward, and imitations depicting ceiling beams. In any case, each of them will create an atmosphere of comfort and warmth in the room.

Types of beams for the ceiling

Ceiling beams are installed in various premises such as country houses, city apartments, etc. They are also used to delimit an area, for example, to separate the living room from the dining room. There are ceiling beams made of wood and polyurethane.

Wooden beams are planned in advance, i.e. even at the stage of design and construction of a house. The most common wood for their manufacture is larch. Since they are made from natural materials, they are environmentally friendly. Under such beams, you can easily hide all communications, wires and existing drops on the ceiling.

The disadvantages of wooden elements include the fact that they have a significant weight, they are not so easy to install yourself. They are also susceptible to decay, damage by microorganisms and have a low moisture resistance.

Due to the fact that the beams are made of natural wood, their natural beauty can be enhanced by sanding and impregnating with varnishes. You can create a noble look for them, giving the material an artificial old age. And in addition, they are decorated with either carving, painting, or ceramics.

Polyurethane beams are an imitation of natural wood elements. They are easy to install by yourself as they are lightweight. Since they are made of artificial materials, they have increased moisture resistance and do not rot. Polyurethane parts are made in a U-shape, so communications and pipes are well hidden under them. They can be used to create both a smooth varnished surface and an old cracked one.

Ceiling beams: harmony in style

Decorative elements on the ceiling in the form of beams can be used in a variety of styles, ranging from classic to high-tech. If the interior is designed in an elegant classic style, then the surface of the beams should be smooth and varnished.

In the presence of luxury elements in the interior, it is best to paint them in light colors, for example, in the tone of silver, and decorate with carvings or paintings. For the interior, made in a modern style, details with a smooth surface are used. They can be painted both in dark and light colors, as well as in a brighter mischievous color with the use of backlighting on them.

In the high-tech (loft) style, beams painted with paint with a metallic effect look great, which are in harmony with the brickwork. If the house is decorated in a rural style, then it is better to decorate it with elements made under the old tree. In color, they can be either light on a dark ceiling, or very dark with a rough finish on a light background.

For lovers of the French rural style - Provence - it is better to use well-processed and bleached wood beams for decoration. To decorate the premises in ethnic style, either natural ceiling elements or their imitation of polyurethane with a wood-like texture are used.

When choosing colors for beams on the ceiling, harmony must be observed. So, for example, a design with a contrasting color scheme looks great. In this case, to highlight the decor, a combination of dark wood with a white ceiling or vice versa is performed.

And for a brighter interior, you can combine any color, such as yellow ceiling and blue beams, turquoise ceiling and white beams. You can also make the decorative element of the same color as the ceiling surface. At the same time, the details painted to match will give the room an expressive structure and visually increase the volume of the room.

When choosing a color scheme for decoration, you need to remember that the beams installed on the ceiling should be combined with one of the interior elements in color, for example, with a shade of furniture or with a floor covering.

It should also be remembered that dark decor looks bulky and gives the room a graphical feel. Light shades look lighter and more sophisticated, giving the atmosphere a restrained coldness.

Installation of decorative beams

You will need:

• metal profiles;
• screwdriver;
• liquid Nails;
• drywall or plywood.

Beams look great in rooms with high ceilings. In this case, to give comfort to the room, decorative elements are installed, retreating from the surface at a certain distance. In order to visually cover the low ceiling, a structure is made that smoothly passes onto the walls, or strips are placed on them to match the color of the beams.

With the help of decor, you can create the appearance of a change in the geometry of the room. In this case, in narrow rooms, the elements are installed according to their width, and in order to stretch the room - along the longest wall. If you need to select only part of the room in the interior, then the beams can be arranged in the form of a herringbone or lattice. Or, with their help, you can divide the room into zones, placing the decor at their junction and installing lamps into it.

All communications, such as electrical wiring, pipes, etc., are easily hidden under the decorative elements. Therefore, the lighting can be installed directly on them. To do this, you can embed the luminaires directly into the beam or attach them to it using brackets. The design looks very original with an LED strip mounted on its top.

If a suspended ceiling is installed that covers all the wiring, then the beam in this case will only serve as a decorative element. At the same time, various painting in the form of an ornament can be applied to it, which must be duplicated on other elements of the interior. If the decor is located in the kitchen, then a special device with hangers (railing) can be placed on it, on which kitchen utensils are stored.

The installation of polyurethane beams on the ceiling can be done in several ways. If the decor is heavy, then first, in the places of its further installation, a crate is made of metal profiles or wooden slats (timber). Then the beams are fixed on it with self-tapping screws. Lighter weight elements are attached to the ceiling with liquid nails. For greater reliability, a combined fastening method is used. In this case, the parts are both glued and fixed to the crate.

You can make a beam for the interior of the room yourself from drywall or plywood. To do this, markings are made on the ceiling, a strong frame made of metal profiles is installed for each element. After that, parts of the required size are cut from the material. Then they are screwed to the prepared frame using self-tapping screws. At the end, all the resulting boxes are processed with putty, then with a primer and then covered with paint or pasted over with a film for wood.